FALL RIVER LINE 

BETWEEN BOSTON AND NEW YORK. 

The Passenger Steamers in service on this route are the finest of their 
class in the world. The Superb new Iron Steamer 



i^ 



PILGR 




the latest acquisition of the line, is unsurpassed. She has TWO HULLS. 

one inside the other, 103 WATER-TIGHT COMPARTMENTS, 

and is practically Non-Sinkable. 

STEEL BOILERS, STEAM STEERING GEAR, 

ELECTRIC BELLS IN STATEROOMS, 

and is illuminated throughout by the 
EDISON TArn A Arrfci?.am7'.i>rT' TT'.T.T^.r.nin^ wq LIGHT. 



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has been thoi, 

ments mac 

beei 



SPLE 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 






UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



E, 



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id many improve- 
900. 'She has 
condition. 



MUSIC 



£lCCOL«A^t*AA r 



evening with a 



lUed every 



Passengers arrive on Steamer two to three hours earlier than via long rail 
routes connecting with other Sound Lines, and avoid changing from cars to 
boat at an unseasonable hour at night. 

SPECIAL EXJPItESS, connecting with Steamers at Fall River, 
LEAVES BOSTON, 

from Old Colony Station, corner South and Knkpxand Streets, Tf^eek 
Days, G P.M., Sundays (Summer), 7 jP.ilf , running through to 
steamer at Fall River in 75 MINUTES' Steamers are due in New York at 
7 A.M. BuooKLYN and Jersey City Passengers are transferred by Annex 
Boat on arrival of Steamers from the East. 

Tickets, Staterooms, and Berths can be secured in Boston at the office 
of the Line, 3 OLD STATE HOUSE, Corner Washington and State 
Streets, and at Old Colony Station. 

L. H. PALMER, Agent, 3 Old State House, Boston. 
GEO. L. CONNOR, J. R. KENDRICK, 

General Passenger Agent, General Manager, 

i New York. Boston. 



PROMENADE CONCERT 

in the Grand Saloon. This line has the Shortest Rail Line (49 miles) and ! 
the Longest Water Route, affording its patrons a full night's rest. 



ADVEliTlSEMEHrS. 



THE GREAT PLEASURE ROUTE TO 

MOUNT DESERT, 
PENOBSCOT RIVER AND BAY, 

AKD THK 
SUMMER RESORTS OF 

Picturesque Maine. 



Tourists car -"-■'^'>' the grand and romantic beauties of the coast of 
Maine b}' a passage on either of the Palace Steamers of the 

BOSTON AND BANGOR STEAMSHIP CO. 

The Grand and Magnificent Steamer PENOBSCOT, Capt. Wm . 
R. Roix. 

Tlie Large and Elegant Steamer CAMBMIDGE, Capt. Otis 
Ingraham. 

The Commodious and Fast Steamer KATAHIHN, Capt. Frank 
C. Homer. 

The Spacious and Rapid Steamer MOUNT DESERT, Capt. 
Mark Ingraham. Fastest steamer in New England. 

The Reliable and Swift Steamer ROCKLAND, Capt. W. R. 
Sawtelle. 

Steamers leave Foster's Wharf, Boston, at 5 o'clock daih' (Sunday's 
excepted), from May 31 to October 17, for Rockland, South-West 
Harbor and Bar Harbor (Mount Desert), Camden, Belfast and Bangor, 
and all Pleasure Resorts on the Penobscot River and Ba}^, arriving 
at Bar Harbor at 11 A. M., and Bangor at 12 m. 

About 100 State Rooms on each Steamer ; Electric Bell in each 
room; capacious Dining Halls; courteous and polite uniformed officials; 
careful and experienced navigators. 

During the season of Summer Travel, July 5th to September 1st, 
a Band of Music and Full Orchestra accompanies ever}' Steamer 
to and from Boston and to and from Bar Harbor, furnishing choice pro- 
grammes of delightful music. 

Tickets over this route can be purchased at any ticket office. Baggage 
checked through. 

WILLIAM H. HILL, Jr., General Manager. 

CALVIN AUSTIN, Agent, Boston. 

JAMES LITTLEFIELD, Gen'l Supt. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



THE 

MAGAZINE OF AMERiGAN HISTORY. 

ILLUSTRATED. 
Edited by MRS. MARTHA J. LAMB, 

Author of "The History of the City of New York." 



This excellent Magazine, published monthly, begins its 12th volume with the 
July number of the present year. It treats of all manner of important events 
connected with our national history, furnishing information of priceless value, 
on an almost endless variety of important subjects. It is ably edited, and its 
influence for good cannot be estimated. 

It is conducted in a bright and readable style, contains original and carefully 
prepared historical articles from the best living writers, is superbly illustrated 
with rare portraits and other historic pictures, and has become one of the most 
firmly established, valuable, and popular Magazines in the whole country. 

Readers of all ages, creeds, and politics find it entertaining and instructive. 
Specialists, scholars, the general reader, and young people alike testify emphat- 
ically to its overshadowing importance among the leading periodicals of the day. 

WHAT THE PRESS SAY OF IT. 

"This splendid publication covers In its issues from month to month and year 
to year the entire field of the history of this continent from its remotest periods 
to the events of to-day. It is welcomed throughout the whole land for the reason 
that it is national in its character." — New-Or/eajis Daily City Item. 

" It is ably edited, is always interesting, furnishing information which even the 
most learned may accept with gratitude, and is printed with such care and taste 
as to be a pleasure to handle and look at." — Montreal Gazette. 

"It should be in every household and library; it is a most entertaining 
periodical for every intelligent reader, besides being a mine of mental wealth and 
culture " — Washington Chronicle. 

" It delights the refined scholar, and, at the same time, by its decidedly 
popular cast, pleases a large majority of readers of average intelligence. In no 
other journal do so many important documents relating to our history make their 
first appearance in print." — Christian Intelligencer. 

"The best publication of the kind. Mrs. Lamb, while doing ample justice to 
New York, is true to the whole country. Every State has its own interesting 
history, and she is glad to collect and print materials reflecting honor on the 
youngest as well as the oldest member of the Union." — New-York Jojimal of 
Commerce. 

" There is nothing superior of its kind, or that in any worthy measure fills 
its place." — Prittceton Press. 



Sold by newsdealers everywhere. Terms, ^5 a year, or 50 cents a number. 
Published at 30 Lafayette Place, New York City. 




Fold-out 
Placeholder 



fold-out is being digitized, and will be inserte 

future date. 



M i 




"^ Hr ^ ^ 



S 



Fold-out 
Placeholder 



d-out is being digitized, and will be inserted at 
future date. 



EW ENGLAND: 



HANDBOOK FOE TRAVELLEES. 

A GUIDE TO 

THE CHIEF CITIES AND POPULAR RESORTS OF NEW ENGLAND, 

AND TO ITS SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS : 

WITH THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS, 

FROM NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 

With Six Maps and Eleven Plans. 
EIGHTH EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED. 




^ 1884jj 

BOSTON: ^ 

JAMES li. OSGOOD & CO. 

1884. 



V-'- . 






Copyright, 1873, 1876, and 1884, 
BY JAMES E. OSGOOD & CO. 



University Press: John Wilson & Son, 
Cambridge. 



J 



v3 



J PREFACE. 



The chief object of the Handbook for New England is to 
supply the place of a guide in a land wliere professional guides 
cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest 
possible amount of pleasure and information while passing 
through the most ancient and interesting district of Anglo- 
Saxon America. New England has hitherto l)een but casually 
treated in books which cover wider sections of country ; special 
localities within its borders have been described with more or 
less fidelity in local guide-books ; but the present volume is the 
first which has been devoted to its treatment according to the 
most approved principles of the European works of similar 
purpose and character. The Handbook is designed to enable 
travellers to visit all or any of the notable places in New 
England, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving 
lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various 
routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal 
cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the 
old coast and border towns, statements of the principal scenic 
attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, 
biographical sketches in connection with the birthplaces of 
eminent men, and statistics of the chief industries of the included 
States. The half-forgotten but worthy and heroic records of the 
eaily colonial era and the French and Indian wars have received 
special attention in connection with the localities rendered classic 
in those remote days, while numerous Indian legends will be 
found in various places. The operations of the Wars of the 
Revolution and of 1812 (so far as they affected this section of 
the Republic) have been carefully studied and localized, and the 
rise of the cjreat modern manufacturin<' cities has been traced 



\ 



iv PREFACE. 

and recorded. The famous summer-reports — among the moun- 
tains and by the sea — with which New England abounds, and 
which are thronged by visitors from all parts of the country, 
have been described at length in these pages. 

The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment 
and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European 
Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and 
system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence 
the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which 
have made his works tne most popular in Europe, have also been 
attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning 
the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or 
verified from the Editor's personal experience, after fifteen 
months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. 
But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especially 
amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and 
hence the Editor would be grateful for any bond fide correc- 
tions or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may 
favor him. He would also thankfully acknowledge his indebted- 
ness to the gentlemen who have revised the book in advance of 
publication. 

The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the 
greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all 
who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system 
of lettered and numbered squares, Avith figures corresponding to 
similar figures attached to lists of the chief public buildings, 
hotels, churches, and notable ol)jects. The most trustworthy 
time-tables are found ih "ABC Pathfinder Railway Guide," 
with map, published monthly at Boston (price 25 c). The hotels 
indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor 
to be the most comfortable and elegant. 

M. F. SWEETSER. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGB 

I. Language . . ' 1 

II. Money and Travelling Expenses 1 

III. Railways and Steamboats. The Check System .... 1 

IV. Excursions on Foot 2 

V. Hotels 3 

"VI. Round-Trip Excursions 4 

VII. Climate and Dress 4 

VIII. Miscellaneous Notes 4 



XOUTH 

1. Boston 

2. Environs of Boston 



NEW ENGLAND. 



1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 
6. 
7. 
8. 
9. 
10. 



The Route to Nahant 



Bostou Harbor. 

Nahant 

The Route to Hull, Hinghain, &c. 

Hull 

Hingham. Charlestown . 
Chelsea. Revere Beach 
Lexington and Concord 
Cainl)ridge. Harvard University 
Mount Auburn .... 

Brookline 

11. Roxbury 

3. Boston to New York by Newport 

1. Newport 

2. The Approach to New York 

4. Boston to S. Duxbury . 

5. Boston to Plymouth 

6. Boston to Cape Cod 

1. FairhaA'en Branch 

2. Marshpee 

7. Boston to Martha's Vineyard and Nantl^cket 

1. Gayhead 

8. Boston to New York by Providence . 

1. Providence 

2. Providence to Newport. Narragansett Bay 

3. Providence to Warren and Bristol . 



5 

20 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
27 
28 
29 
33 
35 
36 
36 
40 
47 
48 
51 
54 
5t 
56 
58 
60 
62 
63 
65 
66 



vi CONTENTS. 



ROUTE PAGE 

4. Narragansett Pier 68 

5. Watch Hill Point 70 

6. Stonington to New York. Block Island 71 

7. New Haven 77 

9. Boston to New Bedford . . . . . * 90 

1. New Bedford to Martha's Vineyard. The Elizabeth Islands . 92 

10. Providence to Worcester 93 

11. Providence to Hartford and Waterbury 94 

12. New London to Vermont 96 

1. S. Vernon to Keene 102 

13. Norwich to Nashua 104 

14. Saybrook to Hartford * 106 

15. New Haven to Northampton 108 

16. Bridgeport to Winsted Ill 

17. Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills . . . • . . . 114 

18. S. NoRWALK TO Danbury , 115 

19. Boston to New York (by Norwich) 117 

1. Boston to Woonsocket 120 

20. Hartford to Salisbury and Millerton 120 

21. Boston to New York (by Springfield) 124 

1. S. Framingham to Lowell and to Mansfield .... 125 

2. S. Framingham to Fitchburg 126 

3. Worcester 127 

4. Springfield 131 

5. Hartford 134 

22. Boston to Alb.\ny, Saratoga, and the West 141 

23. The Berkshire Hills 142 

1. Pittsfield and its Environs . 144 

2. Stockbridge 149 

3. N. Adams 154 

24. New York to Quebec. The Connecticut Valley towns . . 157 

1. Mount Holyoke 160 

2. Lake Memphremagog 171 

25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel 175 

26. Boston to Burlington (and Montreal) 179 

•1. Fitchburg to Peterboro' 179 

27. Rutland to Bennington 184 

28. Rutland to Albany 187 

1. Rutland and Washington Line 187 

29. Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal . . . . .188 

1. Lowell 189 

2. Nashua to Wilton 192 

3. Concord to Claremont 196 

4. St. Albans to Richford 206 

5. St. Albans to Rouse's Point 207 

30. Boston to the Franconia Mountains 209 

31. Boston to the White Mountains 213 

1. Rochester to Portland • 213 



CONTENTS. vii 

laOUTS PACE 

32. Lake Winhepesaukee and the Sandwich Mountains . . . 215 

1. Centre Harbor to Conway 219 

2. Chocorua and Ossipee 220 

83. The White Mountains and North Conway 221 

1. North Conway 223 

2. North Conway to the Glen House and Gorham .... 225 

3. Gorham 227 

4. Gorham to the Notch 229 

5. North Conway to the Notch 230 

6. The Crawford House to the Profile House 233 

7. Mount Washington 234 

34. The Franconia Mountains and the Pemigewasset Valley . . 238 

1. The Profile House to Plymouth 241 

2. Waterville and Camptou 242 

35. The Percy Peaks, Dixville Notch, and Lake Umbagog . . 243 

1. Colebrook to Umbagog and Raugeley 244 

2. Connecticut Lake . 245 

36. Boston to Cape Ann 245 

37. Boston to Portland and St. John 248 

1. Peabody, Lowell, and Lawrence Branches 255 

2. Marblehead Branch 255 

3. Essex Branch 257 

4. Aniesbury Branch 261 

5. The Isles of Shoals 265 

6. Portsmouth to Concord 267 

7. Portland and its Environs • . . 270 

8. Casco Bay 274 

38. Boston to Portland 275 

1. Wakefield to Newburjrport 276 

2. Lawrence to Lowell or Manchester ...... 279 

3. Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee 282 

39. Portland to the White Mountains 284 

1. Lake Sebago • . . . 284 

40. Portland to Quebec and Montreal 287 

1. Mechanic Falls to Canton 287 

2. Bethel to Lake Umbagog 289 

41. Portland to Farmington and the Western Maine Forest . 291 

1. Farminglon to the Rangeley Lakes 292 

42. Portl,\nd to the Upper Kennebec 293 

43. Boston or Portland to Moosehead Lake 295 

44. Portland to Rockland . • . 297 

1. Wiscasset to Boothbay 299 

2. Damariscotta to Bristol and Pemaquid • .... 299 

45. Portland to Mount Desert 302 

1. Castine • . . . , 302 

2. Bar Harbor 304 

3. Southwest Harbor 306 

4. Mount Desert to Machiasport 807 



Vlll 



CONTENTS. 



ROUTE PAGE 

4G. Portland to Lewiston and Bangor 307 

47. Portland to Augusta and Banuor 309 

48. Boston to Bangor. The Penobscot River 316 

49. Bangor to St. John 318 

1. Fredericton, N. B 319 

2. St. John River 320 

50. The New Brunswick Border, Eastport to Madawaska . . 321 



THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS OF NEW ENGLAND. 



The Hudson River 



61. New York City 

1. Central Park . 

2. Brooklyn . 

52. New York to Albany 

1. The Highlands 

2. The Catskill Mountains 

3. Albany 

53. Albany to Montreal .... 

1. Saratoga 

2. Fort Edward to Wliitehall or Caldwell 

3. Lake George 

4. Lake Chaniplain .... 

54. Montreal and its Environs 

1. Lachine Rapids .... 

2. Victoria Bridge 

55. Montreal to Quebec. The St. Lawrence River 
66. Quebec 

1. St«. Anne and Chateau Richer . 

2. The Saguenay River 



325 
336 
339 
340 
343 
347 
348 
350 
350 
355 
357 
361 
368 
372 
373 
373 
875 
384 
385 



MAPS. 

1. General Map of New England : in pocket. 

2. Map of tlie Environs of Boston : in pocket. 

3. Map of Nahant. 

4. Map of Lake Winnepesaukee. 

5. Map of the White and Franconia Mountains. 

6. Map of the Hudson River. 

PLANS OF CITIES, &c. 
Boston, Hartford, Montreal, New Haven, New York, Newport, Portland, 
Providence, Quebec, Central Park, Mount Auburn Cemetery. 



ABBREVIATIONS. 
M. = mile ; hr. =hour ; min. = minute ; ft. = foot or feet ; r. 
N. = north ; S. = south ; E. = east ; W. = west. 



: right ; 1. = left ; 



ASTERISKS 
denote objects deserving of special attention. 



NEW ENGLAND. 



" Nobis eternum reliquerunt monnmentum, 
Novanglorum mojuia." 

"Nova Anglia" : a Latin poem by Morrell, 1G25. 

New England is the northeastern portion of the United States, and 
comprises the States of Maine, New Hanipsliire, Vermont, Massacliusetts, 
Connecticut, and Rhode Island. It is bounded on the S. by the AtLantic 
Ocean and Long Island Sound, on the W. by the State of New York, on the 
N. by the Province of Quebec, and on the E . by the province of New Bruns- 
wick and the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between the latitudes 41° and 48° 
N, and the longitudes 67° and 74° W. from Greenwich, and has an area 
of 65,000 square M., with a population of 4,010,529 (census of 1880). 
The principal religious sect is tlie Congregational, which has 190,473 
members; the Episcopal Church has 38,098; and the Methodists have 
70,000. The Catholics and the Baptists (114,000) are also strong in 
numbers, while Unitarianism has here its chief power. A high standard 
of education prevails among the people, and is supported by an extensive 
school-system and several renowned colleges. The New-Englanders have 
always been distinguished for a marked individuality of thought, by 
reason of which tlie most advanced and radical schools of philosophy, 
politics, and religion have arisen or have been developed here, Th&. 
nature of the climate and of the soil has rendered agriculture less 
profitable than at the West, and the strength of the section has been 
found in the establishment and maintenance of vast manufacturing indus- 
tries. The coast extends in a direct line for over 700 M., with many 
spacious hai'bors ; and the maritime cities are celebrated for their skilful 
seamen and for their large fleets of merchant-ships. This district was 
granted by James I. to tlie Plymouth Company (in 1606) under the name 
of North Virginia; but Capt. John Smith, having surveyed and mapped 
the coast iu 1614, gave it the name of New England. 

Maine 

is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic, on the W. by N. H., on the N. by 
Canada, and on the E. by New Brunswick. It is the most northeastern of 
the United States, and the largest of the States of New England. It has 
an area of 31,766 square M. , with a population of 648,936, and a valuation 
of $ 235,978,216. It is divided into 16 counties, and has 15 small cities, 



X MAINE. 

the chief of which is Portland, wliile the capital is Augusta, at the head 
of ship-navigation on the Kennebec River. The coast of " hundred-har- 
bored Maine" is remarkably picturesque, with deep fiords rimning up 
between bold peninsulas, and with archipelagos of beautiful islands resting 
in quiet and extensive bays. The direct line of the coast from Kittery 
Point to Quoddy Head is 278 M., but the deep curves of the bays and 
estuaries give an actual shore-line of nearly 2,500 M. Mt. Desert (60,000 
acres) is the largest of the many islands which front the ocean, and Mon- 
hegan is the most distant from the mainland. The great rivers Penob- 
scot, Kennebec, and St. Croix empty into the sea on this coast, and 
furnish wide and convenient harbors. Nearly | of the area of Maine is 
still covered with primeval forests, and the lumber-trade is the chief 
industry of the State. The trees are felled and hauled to the water- 
courses during the winter, and in the spring they are imited in vast rafts 
and floated down to the river cities. In the S. and E, of the great forest 
is a broken range of mountains, the loftiest of which is Mt. Katahdin 
(5,385 ft. high). One tenth of Maine is covered with water. Maine has 
4,500 factories, 53,000 operatives, and an annual product of $80,000,000 in 
manufactured goods. The State has 65,000 farms. 

The Maine coast was first visited by Gosnold in 1602, and in 1607 the 
short-lived Sagadahoc colony settled at the mouth of the Kennebec 
River. The French colonies at the St. Croix River and Mt. Desert were 
but ephemeral, and several other attempts proved equally unsuccessful, 
partly owing to the hostility between the claimants of the territory (the 
French and English), and the distrust of the Indians for both of them. 
The island of Monhegan was settled in 1622, and Saco was founded in 
1623. When the Plymouth Company broke up, in 1635, Sir Ferdinando 
Gorges received by royal charter the province of Maine (then iirst so 
called). In 1642 his son founded the city of Gorgeana (York), but in 
1651 Mass. absorbed Maine, being sustained by the exigencies of the 
times and by the Puritan Parliament of England. After some resistance 
on the part of the Maine proprietors, Mass . bought out their interest, and 
thenceforward ruled the northern province for nearly 170 years with a 
firm and beneficial sway. From 1675 until 1760 a disastrous succession 
of Indian wars ensued, in which every twentieth settler was killed or 
captured and many towns were destroyed. The bombardment of Port- 
land (1775) and the naval battle at Castine (1779) were the chief events 
during the Revolution, but the coast was badly harried during the War 
of 1812. In 1820 Maine was admitted into the Union as the twenty- 
third State. 

New Hampshire 

is bounded on the S. by Mass., on the W. by Vt., on the N. by the 
province of Quebec, and on the E. by ]\Iaine and the Atlantic. It has an 



NEW HAMrSHIRE — VERilONT. xi 

.area of 9,280 square M., with a population of 346,991, and a valuation of 
^ 1(U,756,181. It is divided into 10 counties, witli 234 towns and 6 cities, 
and the capital is Concord, on the I\Ierrimac River. There is an ocean- 
front of 18 M., which is bordered by level plains stretching inland, while 
just off the coast are the remarkable Isles of Shoals, formerly famed for 
their fislieries and now a favorite summer-resort. Beyond the sea-shore 
plains the country assumes a more rugged and broken appearance, with 
numerous isolated summits and hill-ranges which culnunate in the W'aite 
Mts., covering over 40 square M. of a picturesque district which is called 
"the Switzerland of America." The lakes of N. H. cover 110,000 acres, 
and the most beautiful of their number is Winnepesaukee, which has 69 
square M. of extent, and contains 300 islands. The soil of the State is 
not fertile, but it has much mineral wealth ; and the climate, thoiigh 
severe, is very healthful. There are extensive primeval forests in the N. 
(Coos County), in whose recesses wolves and bears still are found ; and the 
remote lakes and streams afford fine fishing. The Connecticut, Saco, and 
Merrimac Rivers have their sources in N. H., and on the water-power 
afforded l)y tlie latter large manufacturing cities are located. The State has 
more than 3,200 factories, with 48,000 oi)eratives, using $44,000,000 worth 
of material, and turning out $ 74,000,000 worth of goods. The manufactures 
of cotton and woollen goods, iron and leather, are the chief mechanical 
industries, and centre at the cities of Manchester and Nashua. The press 
of the State consists of 10 daily papers, GQ weeklies, and 7 monthlies. 

The N. H. coast was first visited by the Europeans in 1614, and settle- 
ments were founded at Dover and Portsmouth about 1623, The district 
was for many years under the government of Mass., and was afterwards 
ceded to N. Y., wlnle the incessant inroads of the Indians devastated the 
frontiers for nearly 80 years. The chief incidents of these wars were the 
destruction of Dover (1689), and the battle of Pequawket. In 1741 N. H. 
became a royal province, and in 1776 it led the secession from the British 
Empire, giving freely of its men and money to the cause of independence. 

Vermont 

is bounded on the S. by Mass., on the W. by N. Y. and Lake Champlain, 
on the N. by Canada, and on the E. by N. H. It has an area of 9,056 M., 
with a population of 332,286, and a valuation of $ 86,806,775. It is 
divided into 14 counties, and has but 3 small cities, the great majority of 
the people being engaged in farming. The centre of the State is trav- 
ersed from N. to S. by the Green Mts., whose smooth and rounded sum- 
mits form a marked contrast -with the sharp peaks of the White Mts. 
The chief of the Green Mts. are Mt. Mansfield (4,359 ft.), Camel's Hump 
(4,188 ft.), Killington and Pico Peaks, and Ut. Ascutney. The E. slope 
is watered by several streams which flow into the Connecticut River, 



xii MASSACHUSETTS. 

while tlie W. slope sinks into the broad and fertile plains which border 
Lake Champlain and are traversed by Otter Creek and the Wiiiooski, 
Lamoille, and Missisqnoi Rivers. The Lakes Memphreniagog, Willoughby, 
Bunniore, Bomaseen, and St. Catharine are pleasant summer -resorts, and 
the great Lake Champlain affords an avenue for an extensive international 
commerce, whose chief centre is the port of Burlington. The evergreen 
forests on the mountains alternate with broad pasture-plains, and the 
deciduous groves on the lowlands are interspersed with tillage-fields of rich, 
loamy soil, so that Vt. has become the most agricultural of the Northern 
States, and exceeds all others (j)roportionally to her iiopulation) in the 
production of wool, live stock, majDle sugar, butter and cheese, hay, hops, 
and potatoes. There are made here annually 13,000 tons of butter, 750 
tons of cheese, and 4,500 tons of maple-sugar. Extensive quarries of fine 
statuary and variegated marble and serpentine have been opened in the S. 
counties, and vast quantities of slate have been exported from the same 
region. There are 36,000 farms, valued at $110,000,000. 

The first European Avho saw Vt. was Jacques Cartier, Avho, in 1535, 
looked upon its high ridges from Mount Royal (Montreal). Its coast was 
explored by Chami)laiu and others in 1609, and prosperous French settle- 
ments were made (in Addison) later in the 17th century. In 1724 Mass. 
built Fort Dummer (near the present town of Brattleboro); but the num- 
bers and ferocity of the Indians prevented colonization until after the 
conquest of Canada (1760). The territory was then partly occupied under 
grants from N. H., until it was ceded to N. Y. ; and thereafter ensued a 
controversy in which the settlers successfully resisted the authorities of 
N. Y, imtil the outbreak of the Revolution, when they proclaimed Ver- 
mont ( Verts fronts, or Green TMts. ) an independent State. Congress twice 
refused to acknowledge the new State, although its soldiers ("the Green 
Mountain Boys ") captured Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and annihilated 
the flower of Burgoyne's German auxilia^ps at the battle of Bemiington. 
In 1791, after paying New York .$30,000"in liquidation of all claims, Vt. 
was admitted into the Union (the 14th State), and snice that time has 
prospered and steadily increased in wealth and i)opulation. 

Massachusetts 
is bounded on the S. by Conn, and R. I., on the W. by N. Y., on the N. 
by Vt. and N. H., and on the E. by the Atlantic. It has an area of 7,800 
square M., with 1,783,085 inhabitants, and a valuation of $ 1,584,756,802. 
The soil is not fertile, but considerable crops are gained by careful 
cultivation ; and tlie best land is found in the valleys of the Connecticut 
and Housatonlc Rivers. There is but little level land in the State, and in 
the W. counties the Taronic and Hoosac Ranges of mountains afford great 
diversity of sceuerj'? The Connecticut River flows through a gardeu-like 



MASSACHUSETTS. Xlll 

valley-, with several prosperous towns ; and the Merrimac (in the N. E.) 
affords a vast water-power to Lowell and Lawrence, and passes nito the 
sea at Newburvport. The climate is severe in the hill-countries, and is 
very variable on the coast, — the mean temperature being between 44° 
and 51°. There are 38,500 farms, whose annual products amount to over 
$24,000,000, and the State has 2,250,000 apple-trees. Profitable beds of 
iron ore and glass sand have been developed, and the exportation of mar- 
ble (from Berkshire County) and granite (from Quincy and Cape Ann) 
has become a lucrative business. The State has been celebrated for the 
number and excellence of its ships, and for the skill and enterprise of its 
seamen. Granite, ice, and fish are among the chief articles of export; 
the latter being brought in by the large fisliing-Heets of Cape Cod and 
Gloucester. Massachusetts has 14,352 manufactories, paying annually 
$ 128,000.000 to 352,000 operatives, nsing ^ 387,000,000 worth of materials, 
and making $631,000,000 Avorth of goods (boots, shoes, and leather, 
$144,000,000; cottons, ^ 75,000,000; woollens and worsteds, ,$58,000,000; 
paper, $15,000,000). In 1880, the net State, county, city, and town debts 
reached over $ 90,000,000. 

The prevailing religious sect is the Congregational, the Baptist, IMeth- 
odist, and Unitarian churches being also strong, while the Roman Catholics 
are rapidly attaining great power and influence. The educational insti- 
tutions of the State are admirably arranged and have a high reputation, 
their ethciency being assured by the maintenance of four normal schools, 
five colleges, and Harvard University. The militia is kept in a state of 
high efficiency and discipline, and composes two brigades, with infantry, 
cavalry, and artillery, which go into camp every year for several days, at 
the State camp-L'"round nnd fort, at Framingham. 

The coast of Mass. was first visited by the Norwegian mariners Leif and 
Thorwahl, about the year 1000. After several attempts at colonization, 
which were frustrated by the poAverful native tribes, the Norsemen aban- 
doned the country (which, from its fruitfulness, they had named Vinland). 
In 1497 John and Sebastian Cabot cruised along the coast, and were fol- 
lowed by Cortereal, Verrazzani, and Gomez. In 1602 Gosnold explored 
the S. E. islands, and planted an ephemeral colony on Cuttyhnnk, near 
New Bedford. Pring, Cham plain, and Weymouth soon after passed along 
the coast, while Capt. John Smith, following them in 1614, made a map 
of the coast and islands. Dec. 21, 1620, the ship " Ma j'^ flower " arrived 
at Plymouth with 102 Pilgrims, who had been driven from England by 
religious persecution, and who founded here the first permanent colony in 
Mass. Salem was settled in 1628, and Boston in 1630, by Puritan exiles, 
and the Atlantic coast and the Connecticut valley were soon dotted with 
villages of bold and hardy immigrants. 



xiv CONNECTICUT. 

The Peqnot War (1637) find King Philip's War (1G75-6) caused a fear- 
ful loss of life and property, and several of the valley toAvns were utterly 
destroyed before the colonial forces could crush the insurgent tribes. In 
1689 the province revolted against the royal authorities, and the country- 
people took Boston and its fortifications and guard-frigate, and imprisoned 
the governor (Sir Edmund Andros). In 1692 Plymouth was united to 
Massachusetts, and thereafter, until the conquest of Canada in 1760, the 
province was foremost in the wars with the French colonies in the N. 
Many of her towns were destroyed by Indian raids, and the W. frontier 
was nearly depopulated ; but the general prosperity was unchecked, and 
when the British Parliament commenced its unjust opi)ressious, the prov- 
ince had 250,000 inhabitants, many of whom were trained veterans of the 
Canadian Wars. In face of the royal ai'my which liad been moved into 
Boston, the men of Massachusetts opened correspondences which brought 
about a colonial union for mutual defence, and enrolled themselves as 
minute-men, ready to march against the Bi-itish troops at a minute's 
notice. The battles of Concord and Lexington were followed by a general 
appeal to arms ; and the siege of Boston, the Battle of Bunker Hill, and 
the American occupation of the city came in rapid siiccession. After 
these events the scene of war was transferred to New York and the South, 
where tlie Massachusetts regiments won high honor, especially in tlie 
victorious campaign against Burgoyne's invading army. In 17S0 the State 
Constitution was framed, and in 1786 a serious revolt occurred in the W. 
counties, caused by the pressure of enormous taxes. This rising (which 
was hea/ied by Daniel Shays) was put down after a few skirmislies. In 
the War of 1812 the State theoretically confined her exertions to the de- 
fence of her own coast, though thousands of her seamen entered the 
national navy. Extensive manufacturing interests now rose rapidly into 
view, and a network of railroads was stretched across the State. During 
tlie War for the Union (1861-5) Massachusetts put forth her utmost 
strength, and gave 158,380 men to the armies of the Republic, besides 
incurring a war-debt of over $ 50,000,000. 

Connecticut 
is bounded on the S. by Long Island Sound, on the W, by New York, on 
the N. by Mass., and on the E, by R. I, It has an area of 4,730 square 
M., with 622,700 inhabitants, and a valuation of $327,177,385. There are 
8 counties, 100 towns, and 7 cities. The soil is usually rugged aiul com- 
paratively uiiprciductive, although the river-valleys ati'urd some rich lands, 
and considerable crops arc raised by laborious cultivation. The tobacco- 
crop is in the vicinity of 15,000,000 pounds a year; the butter product 
is 8,200.000 pounds; and the hay -crop is 557,860 tons. " The manufac- 
tures of the JState are more general, multifarious, and productive than 



CONNECTICUT. XV 

those of any other people of similar means," — clocks and carriages, fire- 
arms, tin and brittania ware, sewing-machines, iron and rubber goods 
being the chief articles of production. There are Q6 savings-banks, with 
deposits amonnting to $ 55,297,705, and many wealthy and powerful 
insurance companies. New Haven has a lucrative West India trade, 
while New London has a considerable number of vessels engaged in sealing 
and whaling. Connecticut has 4,500 manufactories, paying annually 
$43,500,000 to 112,000 operatives; and from $102,000,000 worth of 
material, making $186,000,000 of goods. 

The chief religious sect is the Congregational, and the Episcopal Church 
has more strength here than in any other State (proportionally to the 
population). There are three colleges, Yale (Cong.), Trinity (Epis. ), and 
Wesleyan (Metli.), with 4 schools of theology. The educational interests 
of the State are well and efficiently carried on, under the support of the 
great funds derived from the sale of the Western Reserve lands. The 
charitable and correctional institutions of the State are remarkable for 
their influence and efficiency. The ingenuity, enterprise, and individuality 
of the men of Conn, have given them an advanced place in the mercantile 
and political activities of the Republic; and "probably no country of 
similar extent has sent abroad so vast a horde of emigrants in proportion 
to its population." 

The coast and rivers of Conn, were first explored by Adrian Block 
and other Dutch mariners (1614-33); the district was in the English 
Plymouth Patent of 1620, and was chartered in 1631. About that time 
the river Indians Avere subjugated by the Pequots, and Seguin, their chief, 
sent to New York, Plymouth, and Boston for help. In 1633 a small 
Dutch colony landed at Hartford ; and in the same year a Plymouth vessel 
passed up to Windsor, where a settlement was planted. These were 
merely trading-posts, but Wethersfield was occupied in 1634, and in 1636 
three nomadic churches were led by their pastors through the wilderness 
from Boston to the Conn. River, wliere they settled at Hartford, Windsor, 
and Wethersfield. Saybrook was founded and fortified in 1635, and in 
1637 the first legislature declared war against the Pequot Indians, who 
were defeated and speedily crushed by the colonial train-bands, aided by 
the friendly tribes. In April, 1638, New Haven was settled, and soon 
after the other coast-towns were founded. In 1639 a remarkable consti- 
tution (which acknowledged no higher human power than the people of 
Conn.) Avas adopted, and in 1662 a royal charter was obtained. After the 
union of the independent colonies of Conn. (Hartford) and New Haven, in 
1665, the two towns were made semi-capitals of the province (and State), 
and so remained until 1873, Mdien Hartford was made the sole capital. 
The State stood honorably among the foremost during the Revolution, 
although the towns along the coast were pillaged and destroyed by raid* 
from the Hessian and Tory garrison at New York. 



xvi EHODE ISLAND. 

Hhode Island 

is ■bounded on the S. by the Atlantic, on tlie W. by Conn., and on the N. 
and E. by Mass. It is the smallest State in the Union, and has an area 
of 1,046 sqnare M., with 270,531 inhabitants, and a valuation of $ 252,530,- 
673. There are 5 counties, with 32 towns, and 2 cities. The soil is un- 
productive, and but little fanning is done save on the fertile plains of the 
Island of Aquidneck. The State is nearly ciit in two by Narragansett 
Bay, which runs inland for 30 M. (with a width of 3 -12 M.), and contains 
several islands, the chief of which is Aquidneck (or Rhode Island) on 
■whose S. end is the famous summer-resort, Newport. 11 M. S. E. of 
Point Jr.dith is Block Island, which pertains to this State. Tlie climate 
is mild and equable, from its vicinity to the sea and exposure to the S. ; 
and the greater part of the State is a region of low hills or sea-shore plains. 
The principal mechanical industries are at Providence, Pawtucket, Woon- 
socket, and Westerly; and in the year 1880 the State reported 2,205 man- 
ufacturing establishments, with an aggregate capital of $ 70.000,000, us- 
ing annually $58,000,000 worth of raw material, and producing over 
$ 104,000,000 worth of goods. The 33 savings-banks of the State hold in 
deposit $36,289,703. The charitable and correctional institutions are 
mostly about Providence, where is also the seat of Brown University, a 
flourishing school luider the care of the Baptist Church, which is the 
prevailing sect in the State. 

Rhode Island was probably colonized by the Norsemen in the 10th and 
11th centuries, but was afterwards abandoned for centuries, until the 
coming of Verrazzani in 1524. He remained at Aquidneck (which was then 
thickly populated by Indians) for two weeks. In 1636 Roger Williams, 
having been banished from Mass,, came down the Seekonk River with 5 
companions, and founded a settlement which he named Providence, in 
acknowledgment of " God's merciful providence to him in his distress." 
In 1638 Wm. Coddington and another party of exiles founded Newport ; 
in 1642 a third banished company settled at Warwick ; and in 1643 and 
1663 these colonies united under a royal charier. The powerful Narra- 
gansett Indians dwelt in Rhode Island, and when King Philip's War 
broke out they ravaged all the outlying settlements and killed many of 
the colonists. The New England colonies, ignoring the existence of heret- 
ical Rhode Island, and rejecting its advice, marched an army across to 
the Narragansett coimtry, and, after a terrific assault, stormed the Indian 
stronghold and crushed the tribe. The little province gave freely of her 
men and money in the French wars, and sent some of the best troops to 
the American siege of Boston. In Dec, 1776, Newport was taken by the 
British, who held it for 3 years, but were prevented by the New England 
militia from passing farther into the country. In 1861 the men of Rhode 
Island were among the first to reach the imperilled national capital. 



INTRODUCTION. 



I. Languag-e. 

The people of New England claim that tliey speak the English lan- 
guage more correctly tlian it is spoken elsewhere in the world. Be this 
as it niay, it is certain that this one language is universally used through- 
out the six States, and the traveller is delivered from the trouble caused 
in Great Britain by its four languages and numerous dialects, or in France 
by its three languages and provincial patois. Tlie European tongues are 
taught in the higli-schools all over the country, but the instruction is 
purely theoretical, and the number who can talk French, German, or Ital- 
ian is very small. Tourists, who wish to travel among the remoter dis- 
tricts of Nev/ England, sliould be well acquainted with the language, 
whicli is "the English of Elizabeth," with a few local idioms. 

II. Money and Travelling Expenses. 

The notes of the U. S. Treasury and the national banks are the usual 
forms of money in circulation, although gold coin is sometimes seen. 
The silver coins, valued at 10, 25, and 50 cents, are common ; and so are 
the nickel and mixed coins, of 1, 2, 3, and 5 cents. The expense of trav- 
elling in the Eastern States has been very materially reduced during the 
last six years, in keeping with the general contraction of values and the 
falling of war-prices. 

It is more expensive to travel in New Erigland than in any part of 
Western Euro^^e. The usual charge per day at the best hotels is $4 to 
% 4. 50, with considerable reductions when a prolonged stay is mad( at one 
place. Tourists who travel slowly through the country and stop at the 
less pretentious hotels (which are usually comfortable, and always safe) 
may easily limit their expenses to % 25 or % 30 per week. Those who fre- 
quent hotels of the highest class, and indulge much in carriage-riding, 
will find $ 45 to $ 50 per week none too much. At most of the sea-beaches 
board can be secured at .S 10 or $15 per week ; while in the quieter and 
less fashionable villages about the mountains, substantial fare may be 
found in broad old farm-houses, for $6 to $10 per week. 

III. Railways and Steamboats. 

Kailway travelling in America is much more comfortable, yet more ex- 
pensive and dangerous, than in the Old World. There is but one class of 



2 INTRODUCTION. 

tickets, the average fares being about three cts. a mile. On each train is 
a smoking-car, easily accessible from the other cars, and fitted with tables 
for card-playing. It is prudent to decline playing with strangers, as 
gamblers sometimes practice their arts here, in spite of the watchfulness 
of the officers of the train. To nearly every through train on the grand 
routes is attached one or more Pullman cars, which are richly carpeted 
and curtained, and profusely furnished with sofas, easy-chairs, tables, 
min'ors, and fronted with broad plate glass windows. These cars being 
well balanced and running on twelve wheels, glide over the rails with 
great ease. By niglit they are ingeniously clianged into sleeping-rooms, 
with comfortable beds. The extra fares on the palace cars are collected 
by men attached to them ; the price of a night's lodging (in which time 
one can go from Boston to New York) is $1.50. The fares by steamboat are 
somewhat lower than by rail, and (in case of a night passage) include a 
sleeijing-berth in the lower saloon, but generally do not include meals. 
A state-room in the upper cabin costs extra, but insures better air and 
greater comfort and privacy. State-rooms (in the summer season) should 
be secured in advance at the company's office in New York, Boston, or 
Portland. Great lines of stages still run among the mountains and in the 
remote rural districts. Persons travelling by this way, in pleasant weather, 
should try to get a seat on the outside. 

The Check System. — The traveller, having bought a ticket for his des- 
tination, shows his heavy baggage (trunks, &c.) to the baggage-master, 
who attaches a small numbered brass plate to each piece with a leather 
thong, and gives to the traA'eller a check for each piece of baggage, simi- 
lar in form and number to that appended to such piece. The railroad 
now becomes responsible (within certain limits of weight and value) for 
the baggage, which is to be given up only on the presentation of the du- 
plicate check which is in the traveller's possession. Trunks may be tluis 
despatched from Boston to Montreal, Boston to Chicago, &c., without 
trouble, and if their owner is delayed on the route, they are stored safely 
at their destined station until he calls. On presentation of the check at 
the baggage-room of the station to which the baggage has been sent, it is 
given up to the owner, or his hotel porter. The large hotels have coaches 
at the railroad stations, on the arrival of through trains, and their porters 
will take the duplicate checks, get the trunks and carry tliem to the hotel. 

IV. Excursions on Foot. 

It is remarkable that pedestrianism has never been popular in this 
coiuitry. Tlie ease and perfect freedom of this mode of travelling, its 
highly beneficial physical effects, the leisure thus afforded in wliich to 
study the beautiful scenery in otherwise remote and inaccessible dis- 
tricts, all mark this as one of the most profitable and pleasant modes of 



INTRODUCTION. 3 

Slimmer recreation. To walk two liundred miles in ix fortnight is an easy 
thing, and it is infinitelj' more refreshing for a man of sedentary habits 
than the same length of time spent in lying on the sands of some beach, 
or idling in a farm-lionse among the hills. " For a tour of two or three 
weeks, a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, 
and the articles of the toilet, carried in a poucli slang over the shoulder, 
Avill generally be found a sufiicient equipment, to which a light overcoat 
and a stout umbrella may be added. Strong and well-tried boots are 
essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should bo 
avoided ; a light ]:>oucli, or game-bag, is far less irksome, and its position 
maybe sliifted at pleasure." — Baedeker. One or two books might be 
added to this list, and a reserve of clothing may be sent on in a light valise, 
at a trilling cost, to the town whicli is the pedestrian's objective point. 

It would l)e well for inexperienced walkers to begin at eight to ten 
miles a day, and gradually increase to sixteen to eigliteen miles, or six 
hours' walking. During tlie lieats of summer the travelling should be 
done at early morning and late afternoon, thus spending the hottest part 
of the day in coolness and rest. The best time for a pedestrian tour is 
betv/een late September and late October, when the sky is clear and the 
air bracing, — the season of tlie reaping of harvests, the ripening of fruits, 
and the splendor of the reddening forests. 

Among the most interesting districts in New England for the pedes- 
trian, the following may be mentioned: The picturesque valleys, lakes, 
and mountains of Berkshire County, Mass. ; the valley of the Connecticut 
from Springfield to Greenfield ; the ocean-surrounded arm of sand, Cape 
Cod, with its quaint and salty old villages (Tlioreau's " Cape Cod" is tlie 
best guide there) ; the lake region of New Hampshire ; the White and 
Franconia Mountains (frequently explored by walking parties from the 
colleges during tlie summer vacation); and in Maine, the romantic Island 
of Mount Desert. The east bank of the Hudson River, from New York 
to Albany, affords a Avalk of rare interest, and the west shore of Lake 
George presents a short walk through peerless scenery. But the most in- 
teresting ramble is from Quebec through the Cote de Montmorenci to 
Cape Tormenfce, there crossing the St. Lawrence, and passing down tlie 
south shore tlirough the quaint old Norman Catholic villages of Mont- 
magny, L'IsIet, and Kamouraska. This route can be traversed only by 
an experienced traveller who is well posted in French. There are but 
very few hotels in this ancient and primitive district. 

V. Hotels. 

The hotels of the United States, will certainly bear comparison with 
those of any other country. The European plan has been adopted in 
maiiv of tliein (as Parker's and Young's, and others at Boston; wliile in 
many others it is used in couilnnation with the American plan, — $4 to 



4 INTRODUCTION. 

$ 4. 50 per day at the more fashionable houses, $ 2. 50 to 1 4 per day at the 
comfortable hotels of the smaller cities, and $1.50 to $2.50 per day in 
the smaller houses in the rural districts, are the charges wliich cover all 
ordinary requirements. No costly array of sundries and extras is at- 
tached to the bill, and the practice of feeing the servants has never 
obtained to any extent, nor has it been foimd necessaiy. 

VI. Round-Trip Excursions. 

During the summer and early fall the railroads prepare series of ex- 
cursion tickets at greatly reduced rates. Information and lists of tliese 
routes may be obtained from the central offices in Boston. The office 
of the Grand Trunk Railway is at 280 Washington St. 

Thns. Cook <fe So!i, th(' well-known tourist and oxeurFion acrpnts, with officps at 
261 Broadway. New York, 197 WashiniKton St., Boston, and in other fhief cities, 
issue tickets for circular tours, covering the m;iin lines of travel through New Eng- 
land and the Maritime Provinces, as well as otiior parts of America. Th(>se tickets 
are, in some cases, issuer! at reduced rates, and are convenient in many wavs. The 
tourist can hy means of them know tlie cost of any proposed tour i>eforeli;nid, ami 
avoid re-purchasing tickets for each stngeof the journey. Programmes of the routes 
covered by these circular tickets cau be had on application to theui. 

VII. Climate and Dress. 

The climate of New England is subject to the most sudden and severe 
changes, from heat to cold or from cold to heat. The summers are 
usually much hotter and the winters much colder than in England, and 
during the latter season great falls of snow are frequent. Tlie summer 
sun is often fatal in its power, and long exposure to its vertical rays sliould 
be avoided. At the same time warm clothing should be kept at hand, 
and woollen, or at least heavy cotton, underclothing should be worn, in 
order to guard against the sudden changes which are so frequent. 

VIII. Miscellaneous Notes. 

Passports are of no use in the United States in time of peace. 

The examination of luggage at the Canadian frontier and at the ocean- 
ports is usually very lenient, and conducted in a courteous manner. 

Traffic is made easy from the fact that fixed charges exist in the shops, 
and the tiresome processes of chaffing and beating down are umiecessary. 

There are no professional guides in New England, but the people are 
prompt and willing to answer all civilly put questions. Gentlemen from 
abroad will remember that there is here, especially in the comitry, no class 
of self-recognized peasantry, and that a haughty question or order will 
often provoke a reply couched in all " the native rudenes.s of the Saxon 
tongue." 



NEW-ENGLAND HANDBOOK. 



1. Boston. 

Hotels. The * Hotel Brunswick (B;irnes & Dunklee) is one of the chief hotels 




South Cluirch, and the Boston Art Club. It is a magnificent structure, built at a 
cost of over § 1,000,000, and has the best and richest of appoiutuieuts. li ites, .■::; 5 



a day. 

The * Hotel Vendome is a large marble building on Commonwealth Av. and 
Dartmouth St. (.$5 a day). The hotels in the heart of the city are conveniently 
situated ff>r tourists. The *Tremout House (corner of Tremont and Beacon Sts ) 
and tlie * Revere House (on Bowdoiu Square) are large and commodious hotels, near 
the State House. Their rates are from •# 3.5U to .1? 4 a day. The * .American House is 
a brownstone building on Hanover St , with 400 rooms ($ 3 50 to $4 a day) Thj 
* Parker Houi^e, a stately marble building on School St , opposite King's Cliapel 
and the City Hall, is kept on the European plan, and is a famous resort of the young 
men of New England and New York. * Young's Hotel (on Court Ave.) is on the Euro- 
pean plau, and is patronized Vjy city merchants. It has recently been greatly en- 
larged and enriched. The * Adams House (European plan) is a lofty new marble 
building, on Washington St., between West and Boylston Sts. The United States, 
near the .\lbany and Old Colony stations, has 5<.>0 rooms, and is a comfortable old 
hotel. The Coolidg<! House is on Bowdoin Square. The Crawford House is at the 
corner of Court and Brattle Sts. Ilooms at Parker's, Young's, the Adams, and the 
Crawford are from .'$ 1 to S 2 a day upward, with meals a la carte. 

The Qnincy Huuse is on Brattle Sq. (3'JO guests ; $ 3 a day) ; the Creighton House, 
245 Tn-mont St., near Eliot St.( $2. .50 a day). The International is a large hotel on 
t!ie European plan, on Washington St , near Boylston St ; tiie Sherman is on Court 
Square, b ick of the City H ill (rooms, -If 1 ). The New Marlboro' is at 72(j Washing- 
ton St. The New-1'higland House (corner of Blickstone and Clinton Sts,), the 
Hampton (Hiymirket Sq. ), and the Winthrop (Dowdoin St.) are still less expensive. 

At the South End. — The * Commonwealth is a stately niai-ble building on 
Washington St., extending from Worcester St to Springfield St. Its rates are 3? 4 
a day, or S 16 to § 25 a week. The Clarendon (521 and 523 Tremont St.) is well situ- 
ated, and charges $3.50 to ^4 a day. The Metropolitan (Washington St.' near 
Dover) charges #2.50 a day. There are several smaller hotels in this district. 

Restaurants. — *The Parker House (with a spa(-ions dining-room for ladies), 
famous for its excellent dinners. (Charles Dickens called Parker's the best hotel in 
America.) * Young's, near the Old State House, much patronized for society and 
festal dinners. The Ail.ims House has a capital dining-hall (meals d la carte). 
Woodbury's (^afe (Tremont St., near Boylston St.) is much frequented. Brooks's, 
467 Wasliingtoii St., and (!opeland's, 128 Tremont St., are much visited by ladies ; 
as are also Weber's and Dooiing's (I'emple Place) and Fera's (162 Tremont St.). 
The elegant dining-halls of Young's Hotel and tlie .\dams House are mucli fre- 
quented by ladies. *Ober's Restaurant Parisien (4 Winter Place) has the French 
cuisuif : so also have Mieusset Freres, in Van Rensselaer Place. Italian cnisuni 
at the Carrolton (Garden St.), and IJernardo's (North St ). The best steak and chop 
houses are the Coolidgi; (Bowdoin Sq.)and Park House (Montgomery Place). Ladies 
vi.-*it Marston's and the Crawford (on Hrattle St.). Smith's (9 E.x.change Place), 
Frost and Dearborn's (8 and 10 Pearl St.), and Gilman's (50 Sunmier St. ) are patron- 
ized by nuu'chants. 

( 'onfi'ctioiu'ri/ and ices may be obtained at Dooiing's, Fera's, Copeland's. Weber's, 
etc.; also at Acsvood's, 4S7 Washington St.; Whitman's, and Bailey's, 26 and 45 
West St. 
• Laf/cr bier is sold at many German saloons throughout the city. 

Billiard Halls. — Tho'Wliite Bear is on Washington St., next to the Boyl- 



6 Route 1. BOSTON. 

Bton Market; the Hub (12 tables) is at 115 Sudburj' St. ; and the Revere (8 tablci?) is 
uc'irlj' opposite tlie Kovere House. Arteuius U'anl's quaint stitenunt is well kiinwii, 
— tliat Harvard ('ollejre is located in tlie billiard-room of the I'arker lloui-e. 'i'iie 
lartro lifitels all have billiard-rooms. 

i>ntl»s. — 'L'urkish, Russiau, electric, sulphur, and large plunge-baths (reserved 
for I, idles torouoous, Sjiturdoys excepted). Visitors will find the most complete and 
luxurious arrangements. — Hotel Bo^lstou, 192 Tremout St., under the direction of 
J . l)e Reer, M. D — Turkish baths at 17 Beacon St. (ladies on Monday and Thursday 
foreiinons). 

Keadiiig-Kooms (open evenings also). — In the Public Library are the prin- 
cipal European periodicals and American newspapers and magazines. The Young 
MoiTs Christian Union (20Roylston St) and the Young Men's iUiristian Asso<:iatiou 
(corner of Boylstou and Berkeley Sts.) have large and well-svipplied reading-r^fioms, 
free to all visitors. An introduction from a member is necessary to secure admission 
to the Athen.'Kum reading-rooms. The chief hotels devote rooms to numei-ous files 
of the newspapers of t!ie day. 

Theatrt'S. — The * Bt)ston Theatre (on Washington St., near West St.) is the 
larg(!St in New England, a;id is famous in the annals of the stage. Orchestra an<l 
parquet-circlt seats, .*§ 1..50 ; balcony, i^ 1 ; dre.ss-circle, 75 cts. ; family circle, 50 cts. 
The * Globe Theatre (on '.V'asliiiigton f't.. near Boylston) has a brilliant auditorium, 
and is vi.sited by operatic troupes and star-performers. Orchi^stra and b;ilcouy seats, 
$!l.50; bali'ony-circle, -SI: tamily-circle, 50 cts. The Bo.~tou Mu.-<eum (Tremunt 
St., near School St.) is conducted by au admirable stock company. Orchestra-.-!cats, 
%\ ; balcony, 75 cts. ; parquet circle, 50 cts. The Park and the Bijou are elegant 
new tlieatres, on Washington St., near the Boston and Globe Theatres. The Howard 
AtheniKum (llow.ird St , near Court St.) is devoted to varieties and negro minstrels. 

Classic Music is given in Music H;ill (Winter St.) by the Handel and Haydn 
Society, the Boston Symphony Orchestra, and other famous societies. Lecfun-s, 
cnitcc'7'ts, etc., are frequently giren at Tremont Temple, Music Hall, Horticultural 
Hall, ''hickering Hall, and Hawthorne lloonis. Art echiblfions, in the Studio 
Building (Tremont St.), the Boston Art Club rooms (Dartmouth St.), and the sales- 
galleries of Williams & Everett (5t*8 Washington St.), and other dealers. Bast-lMiH 
inatclu's are played on the grounds of the Boston Club, tui Milford Place, which are 
reached by the Tremont St. horse-cars; also on Dartmouth St., near Copley Scj. 

CaTria'4:e.«. — 50 cts. each passenger for a course within the cit\ proper ; .ii! 1 from 
points S. of Dover St. or W. of Berkeley St. to points N. of State, I'ourt, and Cam- 
bridge Sts. (GO cts. for each ailditional p-sssenger). From midnight until f5 .\. .M. 
double the above rates. A tariif of the legal fares is in each carriage. Herdics are 
found everywhere, and chiirge 25 cts. a course, or 75 cts. an hour. 

Horse-Cars (fire usually 6 cts.) traverse the city in all directions. Tremont St., 
between Temple Place and the Tremont Ilou.se, Bowdoin Sq., and Scollay Sq. (corner 
Court and Tremont Sts. ) are the princip.il centres of hor-se-car traffic. Cars leave 
the Tremont House every few minutes for the Northern Depots, Chel.«ea Ferry, Mt. 
Pleasant (in Dorchester), Warren St. (Roxbury), Grove Hall, Dorchester, Norfolk 
House (lloxl)nryl, Egleston Square, Forest Hill, F^enox St., .bunaica Plain, Bronk- 
line. Beacon St!, and E. Boston. Also from Temple Place to Dudley St. (Koxhury), 
and Grove Hall ria Shawmnt Ave. From Scollay Sq., cars run to South Boston, 
City Point, Biy View, Charlestown Neck, Hunker Hill, IMalden, Winter Hill, Med- 
fonJ, Union Square (Somerville), Chel-sea, Revere Beach (/» anmmcr) Lynn, Swamp- 
scoH. From foot of Summer St., cars to Dorchester and Milton. From Bowdoin 
Sq., cars on routes to the western suburbs, Cambridgeport, Riverside Press, Brighton, 
Newton Comer, Harvard Sq. (University), Mount Auburu, Watertown, Arlington, 
Somerville (r/Vt Craigie's Bridge). Cars also pass from Tremont and Washington 
Sts. to Atlantic Ave. and the piers of the harbor and coast steamboats. Omnibuses 
run on the main streets. 

Sleaiuships leave Boston as follows : — For Portland, daily, from India Wharf; 
for Kistport and St. .lolin, tri-weekly, from Connnercial Wlnirf : for Bangor, fri- 
weeklv, from Lincoln's Wharf: for Halifax, semi weekly, from Nickerson's Wharf; 
for New York, tri-weekly. fri>m C'eutral >Vharf (freight line); for Philadelphia, semi- 
wceklv,from Long Wharf; for Norfolk and Baltunore, semi-weekly, from Central 
Wharf; for Savannah, weekly, from Nickerson's Wharf; for Liverpool (Cunard 
Line), everv SatunlTV. fvoni the ('umird Wharf, Fast Boston. Also steamboats for 
the Kennebee,(il(.U(r^ter, Provineetown , PI3 uionlii, Ni'iant, Revere Beach, and the 
landiinr^ in Boston Harbor. ' Sailing packets connect Boston with nearly every poi 
of New England. 



BOSTON. Route 1. 7 

Cliurclies. — There are in the city 27 Baptist churches, 29 Congregatioualist, 
80 Uuitariau, 23 Episcopal, 32 Methodist, 7 Pivsbyterian, 30 [ioiuan Catholic, 11 
Univerfiahst, and 33 other religious societies. I'iieie is a German Lutheran church, 
corner of Shawmut Ave. and Walthani St. 

jSewi-ipapers. — 9 daily papers are published in the city ; also 4 seuii-week- 
lies ; 68 weekiies ; 4 bi-weeklies ; 93 uionculies (mostly magaziues) ; and 10 
quarterlies. 

Boston (Shawmut, or "'Sweet Waters"), tlie Puritan City, was first settled 
by a. recluse Anglican clergyman, Willam Blaekstone, about the year 1C23. The 
adventurous colonists who landed at Salem, in 1030, soon moved a large party to 
Charlestown ; but, finding no water there, they crossed to the peninsula of Shawmut, 
under the leadexship of "Isaac Johnson, landing on the present site of Boston, 
September 7(0. S.), 1630. The name Boston wa.j given to the place by order of 
tlie Court, in honor of that English city from which came Johnson and John 
Cotton, two of the early church fathers of the new settlement.* 

In 1G3-1 Blaekstone, declaring " I came from England because I did not like 
the lord bishops, but I cant join with you, because I would not be under the 
lords brethren," sold the peninsula to the colonists for £30, and went into the 
wilderness. Governor AVinthrop had i)revionsly constituted Boston tlie capital 
of tlie colony, and a strong tide of immigration set in. In 1(J31 the bar.i'ie 
" Blessing of' the Bay" was launched ; in 1632 the first church was built ; and in 
1636-38 Harvard College was founded. In 1663 Josselyu writes : " Tlie buildings 
are handsome, joining one to the other as in London, with many large streets, 
most of them paved with pebble-stones. In tlie high street towards the Com- 
mon there are faire houses, some of stone," &c., — a great change since 163ii, when 
one declared it to be " a hideous wilderness, possessed by barbarous Indians, 
very cold, sickly, rocky, barren, untit tor culture, and liia' to keep tlie ])eople 
miserable." In the Pequot War of lu37, and King Philip's War (167o -76), Boston 
bore a large share, and hundi'eds of prisoners were guarded there. " Piiiladeliiliia 
was a forest, and New York was an insignificant village, long after its ri\'al (Bos- 
ton) had become a great commercial town." 

The town gave men and money freely in defence of the frontiers against the 
Franco-Indian attacks, and fleet after fleet left its harbor to do battle on tlie 
eastern coasts. In 1704 the first American newspaper (the " Boston News-Let- 
ter") appeared here ; in 1710 a massive wall of brick and stone foundation, with 
cannon on its parajiets, .and witii two strong gates, was built across the isthmus, 
or neck, on the south, near the jiresent Dover St. Tiiis, with the walls on 
on the v/ater- front, 2,200 feet long, 15 feet high, and 20 feet llii(;k, and the foils on 
Castle Island auil Fort Hill, e I !L'<_'tually guarded against attacks liy the Dutch or 
French. In 1711, 5,000 of Marlborough's veterans, and a large Provincial force, 
encamped at Ea.-it Boston, and thence sailed m\ Admiral Walker's disastrous ex- 
pedition against Quebec. In 1739 sailed tlie fleet de.stiued to attack Cuba, and 
of 500 men sent froni the Massachusetts colony but 50 ever returned. Meantime 
France had erected a powerful fortress at Louisbourg, far in the north, and t.KiO 
soldiers, in 13 vessels, mounting 204 guns, sailed from Boston in 1'745. They 
were joined at Canseau by 10 royal I'rigates ; the " I\Iassachusetts," 24, captured 
the French frigate " Vigilant," 64 ; and after firing 9,600 cannon-shot into Louis- 
bourg it surrendered, with 2,000 men and 76 heavy guns. Restored to France by 
London treaty-makers, the work had to be done over again, and in 1758 Amherst 
and Boscawen gathered a royal and ju'ovincial army and fleet at Boston, attacked 
Louisbourg v.-ith 7,000 men and 57 sail, lost 400 men, and took the fortress, with 
5,60i) soldiers, 39 heavy guns, 6 line-of-battle ships, and several frigates. In 
1745 the Duke d'Anville, with 16 shiiis of the line, 95 frigates, and a large army, 
Avas sent to letake Louisliourg and demolish Boston. A frightful storm shattered 
this armada, but he landed a strong force at Halifax, which annihilated a Massachu- 
setts army in a battle at Grand Pre, and filled Boston with mourners. The feel- 
ing of discontent which had been gi-owing since the forfeiture of the coloni;J 
charters in lo'^S, and whu'h had been increased iiy arbitrary ads of royal gov- 
ernors and of the London cabinet, arose ra]iidly in 1762 -()5, on the ])assage 
of the " Writs of Assistance " and the Stamp Act. In 1768 two royal regi- 

• Boston, in Lincolnshire, Ensr.. was founded in C50 by St. Botolph (boat-help), a pious 
Saxon and the patron-saint of English sailors. 



8 Route 1. BOSTON. 

ments from Halifax moved into the town, and riots and outrages began to be 
freqncnt. Reinforcements Avere sent again and again to the garrison, and Lieu- 
tenant-Gen era 1 Gage, tlie commander of the British forces, was appointed (1774) 
Govenior of Massachusetts. Then eiisued the gathering of the patriot armies at 
Cambridge, the bloclvade of the city, and consequent dis-tress among its peojde, 
and the bombardments from the American hues. "Wlien Lord Howe was forced 
to evacuate the city, March 17, 1776, 3,000 loyalists chose to go with him, and on 
the same day the Americans took possession of battered and hungry and depopu- 
lated Boston. 

Since the close of the Revolution the city has been engaged in great internal 
improvements, the construction of a network of railroads to all jiarts of New 
England, and the preservation and extension of its commerce. Great manufac- 
turing interests centred here, and the city boundaries were again and again en- 
larged. In June, 1S72, the Universal Peace Jubilee was held here (as projec ed 
and managed by P. S. Gilniore) in an immense wooden building on the Back Bay. 
This editice (called the Coliseum) was 550 feet long, 350 feet wide, and 115 feet 
high, thus having an area greater than that of the Milan and Cologne Cathe- 
drals united, or of St. Paul's (London) and St. Sophia (Constantino])le) united. 
The Roman Coliseum held 87,000 spectators, but the Bn.stou Cdli.seum cuuld 
accommodate only 40,000 to 50,000. Great galleries ran around the hall, parlors , &c. , 
were jdentiful, and a forest of flags and national symbols was drajjed within and 
floated outside. Strong forces of iiolice, firemen, and artillerists were constantly 
on duty at the Coliseum. Some of the music was emphasized by the booming of 
cannon near the building and the ringing of the city bells, while a large company 
of uniformed firemen accompanied the oft-repeated Anvil Chorus with ringing 
blows on anvils. Strauss, the Austrian comjioser of waltzes, and violinist, iles- 
dames Peschka-Leutner, Ruder.-^dorlF, and Goddard were there ; also the bands of 
the English Grenadier Guards, the French Garde R^publicaine, and the Prussian 
Kaiser Franz Grenadier Regiment. These were aided by a grand orchestra of 2,000 
musicians, and a chorus of 1G5 well-drilled societies, comprising 20,000 voices. 
The Jubilee lasted for 3 weeks (withcuit accident or mischance), and was varied 
by a great Presidential Ball. Early in the next year the Coliseum was taken 
down. 

The rapid extension of commerce, and the concentration of great manufacturing 
agencies in the city, produced a corresponding flow of wealth and growth of 
stately architecture. Tlie streets between the Common and the Harbor, between 
Summer and State Sts., were lined with lofty and ornate commercial houses, 
unsurpassed elsewhere in the world, and crowded with valnable goods. There 
were tiers of streets lined with massive granite structures, which seemed as un- 
inflannuable as ravines in the solid rock. About 7 o'clock on the wann, nidoidit 
evening of November 9, 1872, a fire broke out in a building on the corner of Kings- 
ton and Snnniier Sts. It speedily crept up from the lower story and turned 
the Mansard roof into a sea of flame. The fire started thence in three direc- 
tions, and, fanned by the gale which it had formed, it swept up and down 
Summer St., and through the lateral avenues into Franklin St. and Wmthrop 
Sq. The firemen, although heroically active, were driven before it, until early 
Sunday morning, when several buildings were blown up. About this time 
the fire was checked in its southward x^rogTess, and the whole Fire Depart- 
ment (reinforced from many towns within 100 miles) faced the destroyer on 
the north. From 2 to 3 o'clock Sunday moniing the firemen fought the flames on 
Washington St., and after incredible eflbrts kept it on the lower side of the 
street, and saved the Old South Church, which was scorched and strewn Avith 
sparks. During the day the forie at hand was directed on two jioints, the new 
U. S. Post Office on Devonshi/e Street, and the Merchant's Exchange, and in 
the narrow streets between Bmad and Kilby Sts. Repulsed from the fir^it two 
points, and alter a time checked in its advance toward Kilby St., the fire sank 
rapidly under the cataracts of water which were being poured upon it from the 
steam-engines massed along State St. By mid-afternoon the danger was over, 
and many of the out-of-town engines were sent home. In less than 24 hours the 
richest quarter of I3oston, covering about 50 acres, had been swept away, and 
nothing remained of those massive piles of granite and brick save a few ragged 
and tottering fragments of wall. The loss Avas not far from 870,000,000. To 
keep out the swarms of thieves, and to prcAcnt the citizens and the scores of 
thousands of visitors from imperilling tliemselves, three regiments of State troops 



BOSTON. Route 1. 9 

ere called out, who formed a line of guards around the bunit district, which was 
^jius picketed and held under martial law for many days. I.ess than thirty lives 
were lost during the tire. The rapid and resistless spread of the conflagration 
(which would have been imi)ossible in a Euroiiean city) has been attributed to 
■he narrow streets, the thin i)artitiou walls, and the universal use of lofty Man- 
ard roofs built of light timber and planking, and too high from the street to be 
cached by tlie water from the engines. " Tlie best treasure of Boston camiot be 
<urnt up. Her grand capital of culture and character, science and skill, humanity 
,nd religion, is beyond the reach of flame. Sweep away every store and house, 
every school and church, and let the people, with their history and habits, re- 
main, and they still have one of the richest and strongest cities on earth." 

Boston, the capital of the State of Massachusetts, and the metropolis 
of New England, is one of the most ancient and famous of tlie American 
cities. Its colonial and Revolutionary epochs were filled with incidents 
of rare heroism and surpassing interest, while the later and more peace- 
ful years have been rich in the triumphs of commerce and industry. Al- 
though it has lost its former commercial supremacy, it still ranks as the 
second American city in this i-egard, and is carrying through vast railroad 
projects in order to keep its position. It is built on a deep inlet at the 
head of Massachusetts Bay, and favorably situated either for foreign ti'af- 
fic or for its vast trade with tlie manufacturing towns of New England. 
So the city has grown rapidly, its population of 30,0'I9 in the year 1800, 
and 70,713 in 1830, having increased by 1884 to 400,000, Avith a valuation 
of $ 672,500,000. The cramped limits of the peninsula being too narrow, 
large tracts of land have been added by filling up tlie tide-water flats and 
coves, and by the annexation and settlement of neighboring towns. Iq 
spite of its frequent fires and rapid changes, Boston has more of a Euro- 
pean appearance than any other American city, and it lias also a calm, 
coLl, and reserved aristocracy of old families. The intellectual and musi- 
cal culture of its citizens is renowned, and the most radical and advanced 
cliools of politics, philosophy, and religion find their liome here. As for 
the numerous charitable houses of the city, they liave generally won the 
highest praise, even tlie censorious Dickens saying : " I sincerely believe 
that the public in.stitutions and charities of this capital of Massacliusetts 
are as nearly perfect as the most considerate wisdom, humanity, and 
benevolence can make them." The district lying between State, Court, 
and Cambridge Sis. and the waters of Charles River and the Harbor, 
was, in the olden time, tlie most important part of the city, althougli it i.s 
now given to the purposes of trade and the dwellings of the lower classes. 
Commercial St. , forming 3 sides of a square, boimds a great part of it, 
and opens on a continuous line of wharves. Tlie great Northern depots 
if the Lowell Railroad (for Vermont and Montreal), the Eastern Rail- 
lad, the Fitchburg, and the Boston and Maine Railroad, are situated near 

"•h other, on and near Causeway St. 

Copp's Hill, in the northeast part, was the site of a British fort, which 
took an active part in tlie Bunker Hill battle, in 1775, and burned 



10 Rnulel. BOSTON. 

Cliarlestown witli a shower of hot shot. The ancient burying-ground 
first used in 1660 occupies the brow of the hill, and has been sacredly 
preserved. Here are buried three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs, 
Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather, The cemetery is open to the 
public. 

Near Copp's Hill, on Salem St., is Christ Churcli (Episcopal), the 
oldest church edifice in the city (consecrated in U23). A fine chime of 
bells is in the tower, and its music is almost coeval with the church. 
Near the West Boston Bridge is the large granite building of the Massa- 
chusetts General Hospital (PL 4), a noble charitable institution v/ith 
lich endowments. 

*Faneuil Hall, "The Cradle of American Liberty," was built 

and given to the city in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant. 
It was burnt in 1761, and rel)uilt in time to serve the British 14th 
Regiment for barracks (1768). During the later popular excitements 
many stirring orations were made here, imtil, during the siege of 1775 - 76, 
the royal otticers turned it into a theatre. The Hall, 76 feet square 
and 28 feet high, has no seats, and will accommodate a great audience. 
In time of great military or political emergencies, the men of Boston 
flock to Faneuil Hall by thousands. Here are copies of some good por- 
traits : Peter Faneuil, Sargent; George Washington, »S;!iiari! ; Commo- 
dore Preble, General Warren, John Q. Adams, * Webster replying to 
Hayne, Heahj ; Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, John A. Andrew, 
*■ Samuel Adams, Copley (liis masterpiece) ; and others. Fronting Fan- 
euil Hall is the (586 ft.) long granite building of the Quincy Market, 
where all kinds of meat, fish, fruit, and vegetables are exposed in 
tempting profusion. Not far from the Market is the *U. S. Custom 
House, perhaps the most massive and imposing building in Bos- 

ton. It was built 1837 - 49, at a cost of nearly % 1,100,000, and its walls, 
roof, and dome are of granite. The building is in the form of a Greek 
cross, and is surrounded by 32 immense columns, 5 ft. thick and o2 
ft. high. The great granite warehouses (State St. Block, &c.) in the 
vicinity are worthy of attention ; also the ever-busy wharves near Stiite 
St. The old Post Ofhce, or Merchants' Excliange, v/ith 6 lor.g 

gi'anite columns in front, is famous as the point where the flames advancing 
on State Street were checked, in the Great Fire of 1872, by a platoon of 
husky, dingy, and quivering steam fire-engines drawn up before it. The 
Wall Street of Boston, the haunt of its bankers and brokers, is the part 
of State St. between the old Post Office and the Old State House. 
This ancient edifice was built in 1748, and long used by the legislature of 
the colony. On March 5, 1770, a collision occurred between the towns- 
people and the British main-guard stationed here, and a volley -was fired, 
killing four and wounding many of the crowd. This affair v/as called the 



BOSTON. Route 1. 11 

" Boston Massacre," and the soldiers were tried before the Colonial Court 
on the charge of murder, and exonerated. Opposite the Old State liouse 
is a magnificent marble building in Venetian Gothic architecture, witli a 
149 ft. front on Court St. and 55 ft. on Washington St., which cost about 

$750,000, and is used for bank, railroad, and insurance offices. Just 
above, on Court S(i., is the heavy front of the Suffolk County Court 
House, back of wliich, and fronting on School St., is the * City Hall, built 
in 1862-65. $160,000 were appropriated to build it, and it cost really 
more than $500,000. It is of white Concord granite, in the Italian 
Renaissance architecture, with 138 ft. front and 95 ft. height, the Louvre 
dome which is the headquarters of the fire-alarm being 109 ft. high. The 
Council Chambers are very fine, as is the whole interior arrangement. 
In front of the City Hall is a bronze statue of Bcnjanmi Franklin, 8 
ft. liigh, on a base of verde antique and granite, with liistoric l)ronze me- 
dallions on the sides. The artist was R. S. Greenough, and tlie means 
of its erection ($ 20,000) \vere raised by the j)eople. 

Benjamin Franklin was born in Boston in 170(5. He was apprenticed to his 
brother, a printer, but ran away to Piiil:i(lelpliia in 1723. Tliere lie rose steadily 
until in 17u4 he was sent to England as colonial agent, when, in 17(36, lie spoke 
before the liouse of Commons, and .he Stamp Aet was re])ealed. Elected to 
Congress, he was on the couiinittcc on the Declaration (;f Independence, and 
signed that document. From 177iito 1733 he was .Minister to France, with which 
he procured tlie treaty of alliance of 177S which saved the Re[iublic. His later 
works were of diplomacy and i)Uilanttiropy, and he fonnded the Aliolitlon So- 
ciety. He lnven;:ed the harmonica, and the Franklin stove ; and in 1752 found 
the Identity of lightning and the electric lluid by means of a kite. His scientific 
labors won him high honor in Europe. 

Opposite the City Hall is the Parker House, and to the right is King's 
Chapel. Here also is the statue of Maj'or Quincy. 

On Washington St. (corner of Milk St.) stands the Old South Church, 
the shiine of Boston. It was built in 1729, on the site of a cedar- 
Avood church wliicli had been built in 1669. The exciting meetings of 
the people in the late colonial days were held here, and thence marched 
the disguised men to the attack on the tea ships (Dec. 13th, 1773). In 
1775 the pews were removed, and a riding-school for the Britisli cavalry 
was here formed, tlie interior being well packed with gravel, and a liquor 
saloon being placed in one of the galleries. The church was restored in 
1732, and contained (imtil 1873) two galleries, many s([uare "pues on ye 
lower tlore," and a pulpit overarched by a soundi'ig-board. Externally it 
was plain, with a high spire, and a clock. " More eyes are upturned to 
its clock daily than to any other timekeeper in New England." Franklin 
Avas baptized here (in the older church) ; Whitefield has preached here ; 
for one hundred and sixty years the election sermons (before the legi.sla- 
tirre, council, and governoi') have been delivered here ; it was saved, by 
deathless heroism, from the Great Fire ; and in June, 1876, the society 
which owned, this venerable building took the exti'aordinary step of 



12 Route 1. BOSTON. 

selling it at auction. The building is now oA\Tied by a patriotic associa- 
tion, an<l contains a rare museum of curiosities. 

The * U. S. Post-Office extends from Milk St, to Water St., and has a 
front of 200 ft. on Devonshire St. It is built of Cape-Ann granite, in 
IMr. Mullet's Renaissance architecture, with an immense Mansard roof 
and corner pavilions. Its great size, and the fineness of the materials, 
render this an imposing building. Tlie front on Millc St. was so much 
cracked and injured in the Great Fire (against which the structure was 
well defended), that much of it had to be rebuilt. On the second floor is 
tlie U. S. Treasury, occupying a richly adorned hall (open from 10 to 2), 
50 ft. high, with 8 large cliandeliers. The adjacent safe usually contains 
§ 14-20,000,000 in coin and treasury-notes. In the corridor are sets of 
coast-survey and postal-route maps. The extension of this building to 
Post-Oflice Scpiare is 

220 ft. long and 102 ft. high, Avith side towers 132 ft. high, and a central 
tower 190 ft. high, overarching the lofty main entrance and adorned with 
statuary. This extension will necessarily harmonize with the oMer i)art 
of the building, though in richer and more picturescpie architect; ire. 

Since the Great Fire of 1872 over ,S 100,000,000 have been spent in re- 
building the burnt district, resulting in an architectural display which is 
probably unsurpassed in America. Large structures of harmonious de- 
sign and admirable taste have been erected, with beautiful combinations 
of various colored stones, and costly practical appliances for business and 
security. 

The Mutual Life Insurance Company of New York has a superb 
building on Post-Ollice S^piare, which lias been built of Tuckahoe mar- 
ble, at a cost of ,$ 900,000. It has G3^ ft. of frontage on the square, and 
127 ft. on Pearl St. ; and is provided with massive vaults, three elevators, 
brick-arched floors, and iron sashes and shutters. It is absolutely fire- 
})roof. The architecture is in modern French detail ; and the chief orna- 
ment of the bnihling is a graceful and richly carved wliite-marble tower 
130 ft. high, containing an alarm bell and adorned with a brass railing. 

The New-England Mutual Life Insurance Company has a stately 
building, adjoining the l)efo re-mentioned, with a frontage of 50 ft. on 
Post-Oflice Square, and 181 ft. on Congress St. It is of Concord granite, 
7 stories high, with brick-arched floors and elevators. The basement 
contains the impregnalde vaults of the Boston Safe-Deposit Company ; 
the first floor is occupied by three banks ; the second floor by the New- 
England Mutmxl Life Ins. Co. ; and the remainder by miscellaneous oflTi- 
ces. The architecture is Renaissance, and the Mansard roof contains two 
stories. A group of colossal allegorical statues crowns the main facade. 
Thi«i great edifice (with its land) cost n.-arly .$1,000,000. 

The Equitable Life Assuranca Society has an immense building at 



BOSTON. Route 1. 12 a. 

the comer of Federal and Milk Sts., opposite the Post-Office. on the site 
of Robert Treat Paine's house. It is of Qnincy and Hallowell granite, 
on ponderous brick walls, witli impervious concrete tloors, brick parti- 
tions, and an iron roof. Ingeniously guarded safe-deposit vaults occupy 
the basements, banks and offices the main building, and its far-viewing up- 
per stories, and the U. S. Signal Service the top. There are 7 stories 
above the basements, with three elevators, and marble stairways and cor- 
ridors. Tins company has risks amounting to $ 180,000,000. Passes are 
given to the roof, whence is obtained a superb view of the harbor and en- 
virons. 

The Rialto Building (corner of Devonshire and Milk Sts.), the Sim- 
mons Building (Congress and Water Sts.), and many other commercial 
palaces in this quarter will attract admiration. Devonshire St. runs from 
the Post-Oflice by several imposing structures to Winthrop Square, on 
which fronts the highly ornate Cathedral Bu'ild'mfj, which was burned out 
in December, 1879, with a vast number of books. 

On the site of this edifice stood the ancient Cathedral of the Holy Cross, the 
scene of the hibors of Bishop Chcverus (afterwards Cardinal and Archliislioi) of 
Bordeaux) and liislio]"i Fenwick. It was agreatbnilding in Ionic architecture, de- 
signed by Ikillinch. The first Pnritan chui'cli in Boston was built in 1632, at tlie 
corner of State and Devonshire Sts. ; and on tlie corner of Federal and Franl<liu 
Sts. was tlie chundi which was established by the Presbyterians, and in whicli 
Belknap, Chaiuiing, and Gannett preached. 

The visitor should also notice the superb Gothic building of white and 
black marble, extending along Fraid^lin St. from Devonshire St. to Arch 
St., and pertaining to the Sears Estate. The Franklin and Brewer Build- 
ings, and others in this vicinity, are worthy of close inspection. The 
wholesale book and paper trade has settled near Franklin St., up to 
Washington St., and in the adjacent Hawley St. Pearl St. and parts of 
Congress and High Sts. are fanjous all over the Union as the great centre 
of the boot and shoe trade. The wholesale dry-goods and millinery 
establishments are mostly on or near Summer St. The large shipping- 
houses are on and near the new and commodious water-front highway of 
Atlantic Avenue. 

Washington St. is the main thoroughfare of Boston. It conmiences 
at Haymarket Square, and reaches Cornhill by a recent and costly exten- 
sion. On and near its line, between State and Fi'anklin Sts., are the 
chief newspaper-offices and railroad agencies, Avith many large retail 
stores. At the corner of Milk St. is the venerable Old South Church, 
oppo.site the Transcript Building and the Post Building (on whose site 
Benjamin Franklin was born). At the corner of School St. is the Old 
Corner Bookstore, in an edifice which dates from 1712 ; and the hand- 
some Washington Building is next seen, ending on Franklin St. Winter 
St. diverges to the r., and is the headfpuxrters of the retail trade in diy- 
goods and millinery, and the i'avorite shopping-place of the ladies. Be- 



12 b. Route t BOSTON. 

yond West St. are tlie chief tlieatres, with several large new 

commercial buildings of attractive architecture. Beyond Boylston 
St. Washington St. passes on into the South End, growing wider 
and straighter as it emerges from the older part of the city. The di- 
verging streets are lined with residences, and dotted with churches and 
schools. 

The uew St. James' Church (Roman Catholic) is on Harrison Ave., 
and is in Romanes(i[ne architecture. The interior is in the purest form 
of a classical hasilica, the clerestory (reserved for the clergy) being up- 
held by 16 tall columns of Aberdeen granite. Tliere are 3 altars of white 
marble ; and the chancel-windows are of rich stained glass. Tlie frescos 
represent scenes fro^n the life of St. James, The church is 175 i't. long and 
75 ft. wide. The new Church of the Ei»ly Trinity is on Shawmut Ave., 
and is of stone, in Gothic architecture, with a lolty and graceful spire. 
The Hollis-St. Church (Unitarian) is an antiquated structiire occupy- 
ing the place of a still older church (built in 1732). Among the clergy- 
men of this society were Byles, West, llolley, Pierpont, and Starr King. 
Tiie church building was abandoned in 1883. 

From Boylston Marlcet Boylston St. runs out past the Common. 
At the corner of Tremont St., and facing the Common, is the Masonic 
Tsmple, built 1864-67. The first Masonic Lodge in America met 

in Boston in 1733, since when the order has steadily growm, save during 
the days of the Anti-Masonic party. The Temple is a lofty edifice of 
granite, built in such forms of mediaeval architecture as "to suggest the 
most effective poetical and historical associations connectetl Avith the Ma- 
sonic institution." The interior contains Corinthian, Egyptian, and Gothic 
Halls, besides banqueting-rooms, &c. Opposite the Temple is the large 
and elegant Hotel Boylston (suites of rooms for permanent dwellers), in 
the Italian-Gothic style. The lofty brownstone building of the Hotel 
Pelhom is on the opposite corner, next door to which is the * Boston Pub- 
lic Library, in a so-called fire-proof building of brick and sandstone. 
Tliis Liljrary contains 450,000 volumes, and 300,000 pamphlets, and is the 
largest in America, except the Library of Congress. The Lower Hall is 
(h^voted to popular books and a reading-room, while the noble Bates Hall, 
al)Ove, is reserved for more substantial works. All these rooms are open 
to the public, and any one can take books and read there, though only resi- 
dents of the city can take books from the building. The walls of the rooms 
are covered with pictures, which form part of the collection of engravings 
formerly owned by Cardinal Tosti. The pui.Ii.^liing house of James li. 
O-^ijood & Co occupies tlie fine granite buiUling next to the Pelham, at 
211 Tremont St., with tlie authors' reading-room, the heliotype art-gabery, 
and the offices of tlie Heliotype Printing Co. and T/ze Amtvican ArchiU-ct. 



BOSTON. Route!. 13 

The TT. S. Court House, comer Tremont St. and Temple PL, was 
built and long used as a Masonic Temple. It has a churchly look, and 
the main walls are built of triangu.lar blocks of granite. Next to the 
Court House is St. Paul's Episcopal Church, of gray granite, with 6 
columns of Potomac sandstone upholding a classic pediment. Near this, 
at the corner of Park St. (formerly called Brimstone Corner), is Park 
Street Church, an old Puritan meeting-house, the citadel and strong- 
hold of Ortliodoxy. Adjoining the Church is the Old Granary Bm-y- 
ing-Gromid, wliere are buried Governor Bellingham (died 1(372) arxd 
8 other colonial and state governors, 2 signers of the Declaration of 
Independence, 6 famous divines, Peter Faneuil, who gave the Hall to 
Boston, P«A]1 Pi,evere, the Revolutionary hero, Chief Justice Samuel Sew- 
all, John Hancock (see Quincy), and Samuel Adams. 

Samuel Adams, born at Boston in 1722, was one of the leaders of the people in 
the agitations of 1764 - 75, and was proscribed by the royal government. In 1769 
he advocated the independence of America, and during the Revolution directed 
the measures of Congress in the Noi'thern war. " Thougli poor, Samuel Adams 
possessed a lofty and incorraptil)le spirit, was pure in morals, and grave and austere 
in manner, tliougli warin in his feelings. As a speaker, he was pure, concise, 
logical, and impressive ; and the energy of his diction was not inferior to the 
strength of his mind." The State bag placed his statue in the Capitol at Wash- 
ington. A granite pyi-auiid is over the remains of Franldin's parents. 



Opposite the Church, beyond the Phillips Building and Episcopal head- 
quarters on Hamilton Place, is seen tlie plain Avail of Music Hail. The 
entrances are from 15 Winter St. and from the foot of Hamilton Place. 
This is one of the most elegant and well-arranged halls in America, and has 
rare acoustic properties. In this hall stood the largest organ in the Ncav 
World, containing 5,474 pipes and 84 complete registers, and encased 
in an elegant frame, with a colossal statue of Beethoven in the fore- 
ground. The organ was built by Herr Walcker, of Liidwigsburg, 
1857-63, at a cost of $00,000. It was taken down in 1884, and care- 
fully stored away. Farther along Tremont St., on the right, is the 
elegant white granite building of the Horticultural Hall, with a manv- 
columned front, — Doric in the first story, Ionic in the second, and Corin-. 
thian in the third. The rich cornice is surmounted by a colossal Ceres, a 
copy from the ancient statue in the Vatican ; while on jners, at the cor- 
ners of the second story, are statues of Flora and Pomona. Fairs, floral 
shows, and lectures are held in the spacious hails above. Alongside the 
Hall is the Studio Building, the home of many local artists. 

Tremont Temple comes next, with a plain Palladian front, and a great 
hall, which is used on Sunday by a Baptist church, and during the week 
i'or lectures, readings, etc. On the same side of the street is King's 
Chapel, built in 1754, by the Episcopalians, on the site of the first church 
of that sect in Boston (built 16S9). King's Chapel was deserted by its 



14 Route 1. BOSTON. 

people -wheu Gage and the Loyalists left the town, and was occupied by 
the Old South Society. At a later day, influenced by their rector, Rev. 
James Freeman, the few remaining churchmen revised their liturgy, strik- 
ing out all Trinitarianism, and formed themselves into the first Unitarian 
church in Boston. Next to this Church is the burying-groimd used by 
the Puritans from 1630 onward. Isaac Johnson, " Tlie Father of Bos. 
ton," was buried here ere the first year of the settlement Avas ended. 
About him his people were buried for many years. In one tomb is Gov- 
ernor JohnWinthrop, and his two sons, who were governors of Connecticut. 

John Winthrop, a pious lawyer of vSufFolk, led a colony to Salem in 1630. He 
moved his people to Boston and built uii that plaoe, where he ruled as Governor 
of Massachusetts, 1630 - 34, 1637 - 40, 1642 - 44, 1646 - 49. He was an amiable gen- 
tleman, a firm ruler, and a believer in moderate aristocratic princiiiles, stating in 
his letter to the people of Conueeticut, tliat " the best part of a community is 
always the least, and of that part the wiser are still less." 

Other noted Puritans are buried here, and in the church are monuments 
to the families of Ai^thorp, Shirley, and Vassall. 

Beyond the cemetery is a granite building, partlj'^ occupied by the 
Massachusetts Historical Society, which has a lil)rary of 30,000 books, 
and 800 volumes of MSS. IMany ancient portraits (Increase Mather, 
Sebastian Cabot, &c.) adorn the walls, while relics of Washington and 
the Puritan governors, and of King Philip, the chair of Winslow, the 
swords of Cliurch and of Governor Carver, are carefully preserved here. 
The New England Historic-Genealogical Society (18 Somerset St.) has a 
fine library, and a small collection of curiosities, 

Tlie Congregational-Clnb rooms and Pilgrim Hall are at tlie corner of 
Beacon and Somerset Sts. The Congregational Library is here, in the 
fire-proof Hitclicock Hall, and has 30,000 volumes and 130,000 pam- 
pldets, with numerous portraits of ancient divines. The American Board 
of Commissioners for Foreign I\Iissions also has its offices and museum in 
the Congregational Houses The New-Church Union has a library and 
reading-room at No. ]fi9 Tremont St.; and the Episcopal Church Asso- 
ciation is at 5 Hamilton Place. The Methodist hcadijuarters. is at 38 
Bromfield St.; the American Unitarian Association at 7 Tremont Place; 
the Baptist societies at Tremont Temple; and the Anuu-ican and Foreign 
Christian Union at 40 Winter St. The General Tlicoh.gical Library (12 
West St.) and the old Boston Library are much u.'^cd, and the reading- 
rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association (Bi.-rl<clev and Boylston 
Sts.) and the Young Men's Christian I'nion (Xo. 20 Boylston St.) are 
pleasant, and freely open. The British, Irish, Scotch, Germans, and 
Italians have benevolent societies. In Boston there are 30 lodges, 8 
chapters, and (5 coninianderies of INLisons, 18 lodges and 5 encani))ments 
of Olid Fellows, 22 divisions of Sons of Temperance, 13 Temp'es of 
Honor, 7 lodges of Good Temi)lars, 13 posts of the Grand Army of the 



BOSTON. Route 1. 15 

Republic, 15 lodges of the Iviiiglits of Pythias, and i lodges of the Haru- 
gari (Germans). 

On Tremont, near School St., is the Boston Museum (entrance fee, 
30 cts.) where, in a lofty hall, a great niTmber of rare things are 
shown, embracing curiosities from all parts of the world, casts, wax -fig- 
ures, scores of portraits of eminent Americans (by West, Copley, Stuart, 
etc.), and Sully's great picture of Washington crossing the Delaware. 

Boston Common. When the peninsula of Sliawinut (now Boston) was 
bought from Black jtone for £ 30, in the year 1634, this tract was reserved by the 
colonists for a training-ground (parade) and pastui'e. Every attempt since made 
to occupy portions of it has been repulsed, except in the early days, when the 
ground between Park, Beacon, and Tremont Sts. was taken. Special care was 
taken, in 1S22, v/hen the city was formed, to withhold froui the nuniiciiml gov- 
ernment the power of alienating any part of the Common. Between 1G5G and 
1660 several persons were executed here on the charge of witchcraft, and for one 
hundred and fifty years after executions took place on the Connnon. During the 
summer of 167G many scores of Indians caught red-handed were put to death 
here, among whom was the insurgent chief i\iatoonus. Thirty were executed in 
one day, and their heads wei'e fastened on stalcesand left in public places. About 
this time (lo75) the traveller Josseljm speaks of it as " a small but pleasant Com- 
mon, where the Gallants, a little before sunset, walk with their Marmalet- 
Madams, till tiie bell at 9 o'clock rings tliem home. In 1728 occurred a fatal 
duel, luider the Old Elm, whereupon a law was jiassed, that persons killed in 
duels sliould be denied Christian burial, and should be buried transfixed witli a 
stake. If the duel was not fatal, botli parties should stand on tlie gallows one 
hour with a rope about their necks, and then be imprisoned for one year. So the 
so-called code of honor i)assed from the social system of Massachusetts. In 1749 
George Whitefield preached to 2'^,000 persons in one body on the Common. 
During the American siege of Boston a British fort was built on the hill near 
the Ehn Tree, which drew some of Washington's heavy shot. Races, parades, 
and military executions were meauAvhile held here. The garrison of the town in 
1S12 encamped here, and so late as 1*^30 it was a cow-pnsture enclosed by a two- 
r liled fence. In 1836 the present iron-fence {1\ M. long) Avas built, and cattle 
were excluded. In the days of tlie Rebellion tiie assembling troops paraded here, 
and in the Great Fire of 1872 vast mounds of saved goods were piled along the 
malls and on the lawns. 

Boston Common contains about 48 acres, and is rich in laAvns and 
noble trees. No carriages are allowed to enter, and the walks are filled 
with people on pleasant summer evenings and Sundays. Under the 
stately elms of the Beacon and Tremont St. Malls are favorite j)rome- 
nades. Near Park St. is the Brewer fountain, made in Paris, and em- 
bellished with bronze statues of Neptune and Amphitrite, Acis and Gal- 
atea. Copies of this fountain have been made for the cities of Lyons, 
Bordeaux, and Alexandria (Egypt). The Frog Pond has a large foun- 
tain, supi)lied from Cochituate Lake, and near it stood the Old Klrriy 
a venerable tree which antedated the foundation of the city, and was 
carefully preserved until Feb. 15, 1876, when it was blown down. 
On Flagstaff Hill, near the place of the Old Elm, the Soldiers' Monu- 
ment has been built, over 90 ft. high, with historical reliefs, etc. ; and 
at tlie four corners heroic statues of Peace, History, the Army, and 
the Navy, Above stand allegorical figures, — the Nortli, South, East, 



16 Route 1. BOSTON. 

and West, — and above all a colossal America, resting on a liemisplicre, 
guarded by four eagles, with the flag in her left hand, and wreaths and a 
sheathed swoi'd in her right. 

The west part of the Common is smooth and bare, and is 
reserved for a parade-groiuid and a ball-groimd for the boys. 

The Public Gardens lie west of the Common, and contain 22 acres. 
In 1794, 6 ropewalks were built here, on tide-water flats, and most of 
the improvements have been made diiring the past 15 years. In its 
centre is a beautiful artificial serpentine pond of 4 acres, crossed by a fine 
bridge. Near Beacon St, is a bronze statue of Everett, by Storj^ mod- 
elled in Rome and cast in Mmiich. The monument to the discovery of 
anesthetics (1868) is a rich and beautiful composition, * Venus rising 
from the Sea is a lovely work, from above which, when the waters play, 
a fine spray falls about the figure, which is sometimes called " the Maid 
of the Mist," But the finest work of the kind in New England is the 
colossal equestrian * Statue of Washington, by Ball, Avhich fronts on 
Commonwealth Ave, The statue is 22 ft, high, on a pedestal 16 ft, 
high. The bronze work was done at Chicoj)ee, in this State, 

Commonwealth Ave. — which is to be 1^ miles long and is 240 ft, 
wide, with a park in the middle — runs W, from the Public Gardens, and 
is lined with fine mansions, A statue of Alexander Hamilton is in the 
park. Nearly all the land north of Tremont and west of Arlington St. 
has been reclaimed from the water, and is now the finest part of the city. 
The new streets are alphalietically named, yet they avoid the weak sound 
of the upper New York and Washington city streets, having sonorous old 
English titles, — Arlington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, Exeter, Fair- 
field, Gloucester, &c. At the comer of Marlborough and Berkeley Streets 
is the* rich and elegant building (with English glass, a German organ, 
and an exquisite little cloister) of tlie First Church in Boston (Unita- 
rian), Tliis society dates from 1630. Near by, on the corner of Berke- 
ley and Newbury Sts,, is the miniature cathedral of the Central Congre- 
gational Society, It is of Roxbury stone, in cruciform shape, has a stone 
spire 240 ft, high, and is rich in lofty, pointed windows, jiinnacles, flying 
buttresses, &c. It cost § 325,000, In this vicinity is the Emanuel Church 
(Episcopal) on Newbury St., and the fine brownstone Arlington St. 
Church (Uniiariaii) with its melodious cliinie of bells. 

The *Museuni of Natural History lias a handsome building of brick 
and brownstone, at the corner of Boylston and Berkeley Sts, The in- 
teresting collections of this society are open free to the public from 9 
until 5, on Wednesdays and Saturdays. 

In the entraiiee-hall are fossil foot-iirints from tlie Connecticut Valley, and 
several iiiniicnse crystals of beryl, from New Hamiishire. On the r. are rooms 
containi!)!^ hrilliant (■ollectioiis of minerals and ores, favorably arranged for study 
and iuspection. To the 1. of the entrance is the library of natural history, which 



BOSTON. Route 1. 16 a. 

is adorned with several portraits. The great hall of the imiseiim is reached by 
ascending Ironi the entrauce-liall, ami is iniiiosing in its proportions. It contains 
casts of the niegallierium and tlie fossil armadillo, many cabinets of shells and 
fossils, and the most extensive collection of mounted skeletons in America, rang- 
ing from those of tlie elepliant, dromedary, elk, and whale, down to specimens of 
the smallest animals, wonderfully delicate in their formation. Rooms opening 
out of the great hall contain fossils of every kind, shells, skeletons, and large 
stuffed animals. The galleries of these rooms are devoted to sponges, polyps, 
acaleplis, and echinoderms (S. E. room) ; and to botanical collections, mosses, 
fungi, cones, and nuts (N. rooms). 

The first tier of galleries in the main hall is devoted to butterflies and insects, 
shells and Crustacea, birds, rejitiles, mollusks, and other large and interesting 
cabinets. Tlie secoml tier o; galleries, with the rooms diverging tlierefrom, is 
occupied by a niagnilicent collection of mounted birds, including thousands of 
specimens, in almost every variety of sjiecies and color, size and form. In con- 
nection with this brilliant display are numerous cabinets of birds' nests and 
eggs. 

On the same square as the Museum of Natural History is the classic 
building of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. This is a 
popular and riclily endowed school of collegiate rank, whose object is to 
teach tlie application of science to the useful arts, for which purpose it is 
provided with extensive cabinets and api)aratus. It has 38 pi'ofessors 
and officers, and 350 students. In this vicinity are the Hotels Kenipton and 
lierkeley, the Y. M C A. building, and the stately Hotel Brunswick. 

At the corner of Huntington Ave. and Clarendon St. is the new 
* Trinity Churcll (Episcopal; Phillips Brooks, rector), an immense struc- 
ture of Koxbiiry stone which has cost over $! 800,000. It is in the 
form of a Latin cross, wath a semicircular apse, narrow aisles, and a 
retro-clioir. Four massive piers sustain a central tow^er 57 ft. square, 
which, at the height of 150 ft., changes to an octagon pierced with 12 
windows and containing the bells. The top is 210 ft. above the floor. 
The adjacent chapel is joined to the church by an open cloister. Nearly 
opposite Trinity, on Boylston St., is the brownstone building of the 
Second Churcli (Unitarian ; Robert Laird Collier, pastor), with a beau- 
tiful interior. The Chauncy-Hall School adjoins this structure. 

The new * Old South Church is at the corner of Boylston and Dart- 
mouth Sts., and is a siiperb edifice of Roxbury and Ohio stone, which 
has cost $ 475,000, It is in the form of a Latin cross, Dil X 193 ft. iu 
area, and the architecture is the North-Italian Gotluc. The great tower 
is an imposing structure, 218 ft. high, with rich conilnnations of colored 
stones, and graceful windows. An arcade runs thence to the S. transept. 
Along the front is a belt of gray sandstone, delicately carved to repre- 
sent vines and fruits, among wliich animals and birds are seen. Tlie ves- 
tibule is paved with red, white, and green marbles, and is separated from 
the nave by a carved screen of Caen stone, supported on columns of Lis- 
bon marble, and crowned by gables and finials. At the intersection of 
the arms of the cross the roof opens up into a lantern, 20 ft. square, and 
forming on the outside a pointed dome of copper, partially gilded. The 



IQ b. Route 1. BOSTON, 

effect of tlie interior, finished in cherry, frescoed, and carved, is brilliant 
rather tlian solemn. The chancel-window cost $2,500, and represents 
tlie announcement of Christ's birth to the shepherds. The S. transept 
window shows tlie five parables ; that in the N. transept the five mira- 
cles ; and the windows of the nave show forth the prophets and apostles. 
The organ has 55 stops, and 3,240 pipes. 

The * Museum of Fine Arts is on Copley Square, on Dartmouth St. and 
Huntington Ave., and is to consist of a great pile of brick buildings 
around two open courts (each 60 X 86 ft. ). The exterior is to be adorned 
with roundels in English terra-cotta, containing portrait heads of emi- 
nent artists. The portico and front are now completed, and are singular 
pieces of architecture, the latter being adorned with a great terra-cotta 
bas-relief representing Art receiving the offerings of all nations. A com- 
panion relief showing the Union of Art and Industry has been placed 
on this front. An art school and library of high grade has been estab- 
lished in this building, under eminent patronage. There are two days 
eacli Aveek when admission is free; on other days 25 c is charged. The 
basement contains offices and study-rooms. The first floor is given to 
sculpture, and has three halls, devoted respectively to Assyrian and Ar- 
chaic Greek art, Middle Greek sculptures, ainl the works of the Romans 
and Byzantines. lu the corridor are mosaics, heails, grafiti, and other 
ornaments. The second floor is devoted mainly to paintings, which are 
contained in the large hall on the N. This collection includes the INIillet 
and Hunt pictures, and many of the best works belonging to private gal- 
leries in and near Boston, loaned temporarily by their owners. The 
Gray Collection of engravings is in a room opening from the gallery, be- 
yond which is a chamber which is fitted up with antique English wood- 
carvings. At the end of the gallery is a hall reserved for the display of 
articles of vertu, armor, ceramic ware, etc. 

The original works (numbers often changed) are, * Sortie from Gibraltar, Tn(m- 
hull {his uuiaterinei'e) ; Arch of Oct-Avius, Blerstadt; Belshazzar's Feast, Allst an 
("Tiic American Titian"); Mount Washington, Gaii ; * Isaac of York, ARston ; 
Indian Captive, Wdr ; Angels ai)pearing to iSlieplierds, Cole; Priam and dead 
Ilertor, TrumhuU; portraits of ^Washington and his Wife, Stuurt ; Benjamin 
West, Alldon; Daniel Webster. Chief Justice Marshall, Harding ; William Tudor, 
Sully'; the Rajah Rammohun Roy, R. Fcale ; William Wirt, /Hma/i ; "Count of 
Wurternberg mourning over his Dead Son, Ary SchaeJTer ; Storm at Sea, Hue; 
Garden of Love, Wuttcau ; two fruit-pieces, Peter Bvel ; Landscape, RujisdoM ; 
Dante and Beatrice, Schmff'er ; The Flaying of Marsyas, and the Golden Age, 
Ltica Giordano. There are a great number of copies (in oil) of famous European 
pictures, and in one room 50 of the chromo-lithographs of the Arundel Society 
(London), being copies of famous religious paintings in the noontide of art. In 
these rooms are casts of the antique worlds, — the Quoit-Players, Piping Faun, Si- 
lenus and Bacchus, Boy with a tliorn in his foot, the Venus de Milo. and the 
Dyin"- Gladiator, with busts of Julius Ciesar, Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Clau- 
dius, ^Nero,Galba, Otho, Vitellius, Vespasian, Titus, Domitian, Nerva, Trajan. Ha- 
th-iai'i the Antonines, &c. A beautiful marble copy of the Venus de Medici is in 
one riioni, also (hi marl )le)Greelv Girl, by Wolf; '^ Maid of Carthage, Gree/u)«(//i ; 
Will o' the Wisp, Hornet Hosmcr ; * Venus Victrix, Greenovijh. 

One room is occupied by a large collection of Egyptian antiquities, embracing 



BOSTON. Roulel. IG c. 

hundreds of figures of the gods Osiris, Amun, Horus, Isis, &c., in bronze, marble, 
wood, porcelain, and terra-eotta ; also a large number oi scarabsei, amulets, vases, 
and curious jewels. There are also seven human mummies, with a great uumber 
of fui>ereal trappings, and nuuumies of monkeys, lainbs, ibises, cats, hawks, mice, 
crocodiles, tortoises, snakes, &c. There are 1,100 pieces in this collection (cata- 
logue, at the door, 25 cts.). 

In the next room are several hundred lamps, amphorae, cups, statuettes, heads, 
weapons, &c., from Idalium, on the Island of Cyprus, of great interest to tlie 
student of early Phoenician and Greek history. The Appleton collection is on the 
same floor, containing many Grteco-Italian fictile painted vases from Etruscan 
and Camiianian tombs. Some elaborate old cabinets contain fine Venetian glass- 
ware, and a large number of rich majolica plates are exhibiteii. A large piece of 
Gobelins tapestrj'^ (France crowned by Victory and attended by Minerva) occupies 
one end of the room ; at the other end is a group of plaster casts from famous Italian 
bas-reliefs, near which is a Madonna and Child, l)y Luca della Rohhia, and tlie 
Virgin adoring the infant Jesus, by Andrea della Rohbia. Two large pictures by 
Boucher, two by Alhtoii, a large collection of ancient coins (a gold Alexander), and 
the rich oaken panels, carved and gilded, from the Chateau Montmorency, are 
worthy of note. The positions of the pictures and curiosities are so often changed 
that a more careful list would be of no permanent use. 

The handsome * First Baptist Church stands at the corner of Com- 
monwealth Ave. and Clarendon St., and is in the foiin of a Greek cross, 
with three rose-windows ligliting tlie interior, which is 78 ft. liigli, and is 
surmounted by a basilica roof of stained ash. The tower is 176 ft. liigh, 
and is surrounded hy a frieze containing colossal figures in high relief, 
representing the four Christian eras. Baptism, Communion, Mai-riage, 
and Death, — one on each side of the tower. At the corners of the 
frieze are colossal statues representing the Angels of the Judgment, with 
golden trumpets. The work was done by Italian artists, after designs 
by Bartholdi. 

Near this point, iu the Commonwealth-Ave. park, is a colossal bronze 
stfltue of Gen. John Glover, the commander of the Marblehead marine 
regiment in the Continental army. The superb marble building of the 
Hotel V'p.ndome is farther out on the avenue. 

The Young- Men's Christian Union Building is at No. 20 Boylston 
St., opposite the Masonic Temple, and has a handsome Gothic front of 
Ohio sandstone, with a tall clock -tower. It contains a library, reading- 
rooms, reception-room, parlors and class-rooms, a coffee-room, gymnasium, 
and a hall which seats 700 persons. The library consists of over 5,000 
volumes ; and there are also collections of curiosities, which include 550 
coins, 153 shells, 355 specimens of woods, 700 minerals, 3,500 insects, 
and 475 birds of Massachusetts, nests, Indian relics, etc. Near the new 
Old South Church is the building of the Boston Art Club, in which exhi- 
bitions of pictures are frequently given. Boylston St. runs out to the W. 
through an opulent quarter, passing the Public Garden and Copley Square, 
and giving access to the newly-built streets of the patrician West End, 
and the Harvard Medical School. 

The * Providence Kailroad-Station is on Columbus Ave., near the 
Common, and has no equal in America in beauty and convenience. The 



16 d. Route 1. BOSTON. 

arcliitecture is Gotliic, with a lofty clock-tower aud a deep arcade on the 
front. The great hall is paved with marble, and adorned with a niagnili- 
cent timber-roof. The waiting-rooms, cafe, offices, etc., open from this 
hall, which is 180 ft. long, 44 ft. broad, and 80 ft. high. At its end is 
the immense train-house, which is 588 ft. long and 130 ft. wide, with its 
roof supported on iron trusses. 

Columbus Avenue runs nearly S. W. from the Common to Chester 
Park, and is a broad and straight street, with a wooden pavement, bor- 
dered by handsome residences. It is a favorite thoroughfare for the 
passage of military processions and otiier civic displays. 

The First Presbyterian Church is at the corner of Columbus Ave. and 
Berkeley St. Uppobite is the great Peoples' Church (Methudist), sealing 
over 3,000 persons. Farther up the avenue is Dr. Miner's Uuiveraiist 
Church, a large and costly structure with splendid stained-glass windows. 
The Union Congregational Church is still farther up, and is a picturesL'ue 
and rambling building of Koxbury stone, with a stone spire and an open 
timber-roof. One square from the avenue to the 1.. on Canton St., is the 
Warren-Avenue Baptist Church, near which is the singular edifice occu- 
pied by James Freeman Clarke's church. 



Beacon Hill is N. of Boston Common, and is densely covered with 
brick houses, built along quiet and comparatively narrow streets. It de- 
rives its name from the fact that in the ancient colonial days permanent 
arrangements were made for beacon-fires to be kindled here to alarm the 
country in case of danger or attack. Boston University's chief hall is on 
Somerset St.; the church formerly occupied by Dr. Kirk is on Ashburtou 
Place ; the ritualistic Church of St. John (conducted by the Cowley Fathers) 
and the Swedenborgian Church are on Bowdoiu St., and the Faith Training 
College is on Beacon-Hill Place. The quaint old West Church (Unitarian) 
is at the corner of Cambridge and Lynde Sts., and its pastors have been 
Mayhew, Howard, Lowell, and Bartol. The City Jail is a massive cruci- 
form building on Cambridge St., near the Charles River. 

The Charles River is crossed, at the foot of Cambridge St., by the long 
West-Boston Bridge, whence broad views are afforded over the water on 
either side. The house of the Charles-River Boat Club is near Brimmer 
St. It is contemplated to line the water-front of the city, on this side, witli 
broad esplanades, gardens, and promenades, connected with parks and 
forests in other parts of the municipality'. The costly and handsome new 
Church of the Advent (Ritualistic), on Brimmer St., is famous for its 
imposing choral services. 



BOSTON. Route 1. 17 

Tlie * State House (PI. 13) is on the summit of Beacon Hill, fronting 
the Common. Its corner-stone was drawn to the place July 4, 1795, 
by fifteen white horses, amid great ceremonies. The most prominent ob- 
jects on the exterior are the fiue Corinthian colonnade and the high round 
dome. Wiien the Legislature (or General Court) is in session, national 
flags are displayed from the building. The * Doric Hall, at the entrance, 
is a neat, marble-paved room, supported l)y columns, and surrounded by 
high niches, fronted with plate-glass, in which are gathered the banners 
of the Massachusetts regiments borne in the War for the Union. On the 
right are busts of Charles Sumner and Samuel Adams, and on the left a 
bust of Abraham Lincoln and a statue of Gov. John A. Andrew, by Ball. 
In a marble-paved and banner-hung rotunda, opening on the Doric Hall, 
is Chautrey's * Statue of Wasliington, in front of which are copies of the 
monuments of the old Washington family, at Brington, in Northampton- 
shire. The House of Representatives (up stairs to the left from the Doric 
Hall) is a plain and somewhat crowded hall, with a codfish hanging from 
the roof, as emblematic of a prolific source of the wealth of the State, 
The Senate Chamber is on tlie other side, and is adorned by some old por- 
traits and troi)hies. The extensive State Library is in the west wing. 
From the dome of the State House (open when the Legislature is not in 
session) is obtained a fine * view, Boston Harbor, with its islands, and 
peninsulas, and the distant blue ocean, fill the east ; in the north are 
Charlestown, its Navy Yard and Monument, with Lynn, Chelsea, Maiden, 
and Medford ; to the west, Charles River and Bach Bay, Cambridge, Brigh- 
ton, Brookline, and Newton ; and in the south, Roxbury and Dorchester, 
with the blue hills of Milton far away. On the terraces in front of the 
building are bronze statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, the 
great educationist. The house opposite (coi'uer Park and Beacon Sts.) 
was for 40 years the home of George Ticknoi', author of the " History 
of Spanish Literature," in 3 volumes (translated into German and Span- 
ish), who bequeathed 4,000-5,000 Spanish books to the Public Library. 
The Union Club (600 members), a patriotic organization formed in 1863, 
occupies the next house below (on Park St.). On Beacon St., near the 
State House, is the * Boston Athenaeum, a neat brownstone building, 
in the Palladian style. On the lower floor is the library of the American 
Academy of Arts and Sciences, and a large reading-room adorned with 
statuary. In the vestibule are casts of Houdon's Washington and of 
Sophocles, also a marble statue — The First Inspiration of Columbus — 
by Montaverde, and a bronze group — the Boy and the Eagle — by Oreen- 
ough. On the r, is the entrance to the reading-room, in which the news- 
jiapers and magazines are kept. On the second floor is the library, 
which now contains 140,000 volumes, and is the favorite resort of the 
cultured higher classes of Boston. Only members of the Athenaiuni and 

B 



18 Route 1. BOSTON. 

(temporarily) i^ersons introduced by them are allowed to use tlie library 
and reading-room. Tlie Athenteum was organized in 1807, and occu- 
pied its present building in 1847. It has real estate and books worth 
$ 400,000, and over $ 250,000 in funds. The pictures pertaining to the 
society have been transferred to the Museum of Fine Arts. 

The offices of Boston University are at No. 12 Somerset St. This in- 
stitution was founded in 1869, with munificent endowments, and has 
already attained a high rank, having graduated 126 students in 1875. It 
consists of a group of colleges and schools, with 627 students (144 of 
whom are young women). Tlie College of the Liberal Arts is at 20 Bea- 
con St., and lias 17 instructors and 82 students. The College of Music 
(at Music Hall) has 15 instructors and 21 students; and the College of 
Agriculture is affiliated with the Mass. Agiicultural College. 

The professional 'schools inchide the School of Theology (Methodist), with 14 
instructors and 101 students, its headquarters being at 36 BroniHcld St. The 
School of Law is at the same place, and has 16 instructors and 14:1 students. 
The School of Medicine is on E. Concord St., and has 28 instructors and 172 stu- 
dents. Tlie Scliool of Oratory is at 18 Beacon St., and has 12 instructors and SO 
students. The School of All Sciences (11 students) is a scliola scholannn, or 
department for elective post-graduate study, and is affiliated with the universi- 
ties at Athens and Rome. 

The Somerset Club occupies a richly furnished and luxurious house 
at Beacon St., adorned with many works of art. It is the favorite re- 
sort of the young men of fashion and wealth, and includes in its mem- 
bership Charles Francis Adams, Robert C. Winthrop, 

J. Q. Adams, H. B. Sargent, and many 
other notables. Tlie Union Club is also famous for its brains and cul- 
ture, and is the resort of middle-aged gentlemen, among whom the Har- 
vard element is strong. The house is on Park St., and is very com- 
fortable and quiet, being also adorned with a few rare paintings. Here 
Edward Everett, Gov. Andrew, and Charles Sumner passed much of their 
time. Among the members are Jiulge E. R. Hoar, R. H. Dana, Jr., E. 
P. Whipple, Gov, Rice, Prof. Ware, Chief Justice Gray, 

Henry L. Pierce, Gen. Gordon, and other eminent men. 

Near the Athenceum is Pemberion Square, the site of an old Indian ne- 
cropolis, where 300 skulls Avere dug up in Cotton Mather's time. Gov- 
ernor Endicott and Sir Henry Vane lived near this spot, and in later days 
it was an aristocratic centre. The tall oiri brick houses are now used for 
the offices of lawyers and business-agencies of various kinds. Louisburg 
Square is a stately and silent place on the farther slope of Beacon Hill, 
embellished with statues of Aristides and Columbus. 



BOSTON. Route 1. 19 

South Boston is separated from the city by an arm of the liarhor 
which reaches to Roxbury, It contains about 900 acres of hand, with 
54,000 inhabitants, and is quickly reached by tlie horse-cars from Boston 
Broadway is the principal street, and is a pleasantly shaded thoroughfare, 
with several churches. 

The Perkins Institution for the Blind was founded in 1831, by Dr. S. 
G. Howe. It was favored by liberal popular contributions, and now oc- 
cupies large buildings on Mt. Washington, S. Boston. Charles Dickens 
visited and highly praised this institution, as also the charitable and cor- 
rective establishments in a secluded position near Independence Square, 
S. Boston (Insane Hospital and House of Correction). 

"Such are the institutions at South Boston. In all of them the unfortunate or 
degenerate citizens of tlie State are carefully instructed in their duties both to 
God and man ; are surrounded by all reasonable means of comfort or happiness 
that their condition will admit of ; and are ruled by the strong Heart, and not by 
the strong (though immeasurably weaker) Hand." — Dickens. 

The extensive Carney Hospital (managed by Sisters of Charity) is near by on 
the hill, and above it is a reservoir and small park near the site of the old ibrt. 
On the liright, moonlit night of Mcirch 3, 1776, General Thomas and 2,000 Ameri- 
cans advanced quietly to this point (Dorchester Heights), and, when morning 
dawned, two strong forts were conqjleted within point-blank range of Boston. 
Jjord Percy and 2,400 royal trooi:)s were ordered to attack them, and AVashington 
himself, with 4,000 men, awaited the onset. But a storm, " propitious to the 
real interests of the British army," prevented Percy from crossing the harbor. A 
few days later the city was heavily bombarded, and a new fort having been built 
still neWer, the royal forces were forced to evacuate Boston. March IS, sailing 
away in 150 transports, and carrying with them 3,000 New-Englanders who re- 
mained loyal to King George. From this little park a fine view is obtained of 
Boston and its harbor, and of Dorchester and the southern suburbs. 

The South End. 

The district south of Boylston and Essex Sts. is mainly occupied by 
dwelling-houses, and Washington St., with its retail stores and hotels, 
runs through its centre. The greater part of this district has been re- 
claimed from the water. Near the line of Dover St. a wall garnished 
with cannon formerly crossed the Neck and defended the to^wai. Union 
Park and Worcester and Chester Squares are embellished with trees and 
fountains and surrounded with fine residences. Columbus Ave., on the 
north, is a broad thoroughfare, forming an 

admirable drive-way. On Tremont St. is the imposing white granite 
edifice of Odd Fellows' Hall (built 1871-73), and beyond it some fine 
churches, the best of which is the quaint and rand)ling Methodist Cliurch. 
On Harrison Ave., near Concord St., is the City Hospital, with 

a fine building (surmounted by a dome) in the centre, joined to the 
spacious wings by curving colonnades. Near the Hospital is the Roman 
Catholic Home for Orphans, and the Jesuit Church of the Immaculate 
Conception (with a fine interior, and famed for its music), connected with 
which is Boston College. The church and college cost over $ 350,000, 



Ida. Route 1. BOSTON. 

and are powerful centres of Catholic influence. The interior of the 
church is finished in white, witli brilliant paintings in the chancel. 

Near the point where Washington St. runs between the pleasant little 
parks of Franklin and Blackstone Squares is the great New-England 
Conservatory of Music. Brookline St. runs N. W. to the Shawmut 
Congregational Church, which has a tall and plain campanile and a 
richly adorned interior. On W. Newton St. is the large structure occu- 
pied by the Girls' High and Normal School, near the beautiful Corin- 
thian colonnade of the Church of the Unity. The streets in this quarter 
are almost entirely occupied by dwelling-houses, and are dotted here and 
there with churches. 

The * Cathedral of the Holy Cross (Roman Catholic) is at the corner 
of Washington and Maiden Sts., and covers more than an acre of ground, 
its greatest length being 3G4 ft., with a breadth of 170 ft. It is in the 
simplest form of early English Gothic architecture, with very slight 
adornment ; and was built between 18G7 and 1S75. The great towers are 
to be siirniounted by spires, respectively 300 and 200 ft. high. The nave 
is 95 ft. high, to its vaulted oaken roof; and is separated from tlie aisles 
by two rows of clustered metallic pillars, bronzed and polished, between 
which are Gothic arches. The entrance ivowx the marble-paved vestibule 
is under arches made from the bricks of the old Ursuliue Convent at 
Somerville, which was destroyed V)y a mob in 1834. Near the octagonal 
apse are several chapels, the costly high-altar, the archiei)iscopal throne, 
the chantry, and the beautiful Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. The 
stained-glass windows in the chancel represent the Crucifixion, Nativity, 
and Ascension. The transept-windows are each 40 X 20 ft. in area, that 
on the r. representing the Finding of the True Cross, the otlier the Exal- 
tation of the Cross by the Emperor Ileraclius after its recovery from the 
Persians. The clerestory windows are also stained. The superb organ is 
built around the great rose-window, and is the fifth in size in the world, 
having 5,292 pipes, and nearly 100 stops. Under the building are chap- 
els and class-rooms, and the crypt for the burial of bishops. The artis- 
tic adornment and enrichment of the Catliedral is to be the work of the 
coming centuries. 

The external length of this huilding is greater than that of the cathedrals at 
Vienna, Munich, Ratisbon, Orvieto. Messina, Moni-eale, Pisa, Venice, Freiliourg, 
Treves, or ,St. Denis. It is liiglier than the cathedrals of Vievnia, Munich, yi)ires, 
Paris, Strasl)ourg, FreiV)ourg, Rheinis, Chartres, Autwei'p, or St. Ouen at Rouen. 
The New-York and Montreal cathedrals are its only rivals 

iu America. 

Washington St. soon reaches the Ilif/hkaid District (the ancient Rox- 
bury), and enters a region of undulating hills, where its divergent streets 
are overarched with trees. Harrison Ave., Shawmut Ave., and Tremont 
St. run nearly parallel with Washington St. from the vicinity of the 



BOSTON. Route 1. 19 5. 

Common to the Highlands, and each of them is the route of a horse-car 
line. 

Chester Park crosses Washington St. at right angles, and is lined with 
handsome residences. Near its centre is a pleasant square, with abun- 
dant trees and a musical fountain. West Chester Park is being extended 
across the new-made land to Beacon St. The Hotel Alexandra is at the 
intersection of the Park and Washington St. 



Among the eminent natives of Boston are the divines Increase Mather and 
Cotton Mather, John Cotton, Mather Byles. Thomas Prince, the annalist : Jeremy 
Belknap, liistorian of New Hami'sliire ; William Bentley, John Pierce, Leonard 
Withington, N. L. Frothiimham, F. W. P. Greenwood, Jolm A. Vinton, S. G. Bul- 
finch, W. H. Channing, bTsIio]) J. B. Fitzi'atriek, E. O. Haven, John Weiss, C. 
D. Bradlee, and Phillips Brooks. Among the Boston-born authors are Isaiah 
Thomas, Thomas Pemherton, B. Austin, Wm. Tudor, W. H. Sumner, Jas. Sav- 
age, J. T. Austin, L. M. Sargent, Eliza L. Follen, A. H. Everett, George Tick- 
nor, Caroline Gihnan, W. B. Fowle, T. W. Harris, C. H. Snow, J. G. Pallrey, 
Edmund Quiney, W. B. Trask, F. A. Uurivage, J. J. Jarves, R. S. Willis, W. F. 
Channing, Samuel Eliot, M. M. Ballou, E. E. Hale, Franfis Parkman, A. J. H. 
Dugaune, E. S. Rand, Jr. The native poets are Joseph Green, Royal Tyler, 
Charles Sprague, Rufus Dawes, W. J. Snelling, Albert Pike, Frances S. (Osgood, 
H. T. Tuckerman, T. W. Parsons, G. E. Rice, Susan W^ MTisjirait. The native 
statesmen are Joseph Dudley, Jonathan Bekher, Tlios. Hutc-hiuson, Samuel 
Adams, James Bowdoin, Josiah Quiney, Robert Treat Paine, J. Mason, Samuel 
Sewall, Charles Francis Adams, Charles Sunnier. The orators are Thos. Dawes, 
Samuel Dexter. Harrison Gray Otis, Edward Everett, Robert C. Wintlirop, W^-n- 
dell Phillips, Mary A. Liverm'ore. The philosophers are Benjamin Fianklin and 
Ralph Waldo Emerson. The scientists are B. A. Gould, G. B. Bond, F. H. 
Storer, and W^inslow Lewis. Tlie pliiIanthroi>ists are Dr. S. G. Howe, John Low 
ell, Jr., S. J. May, and T. H. Perkins. The artists are J. S. Copley, G. P. A. 
Healey, Geo. L. Bro\\m, W. E. Norton, W. W. Fksher, Horatio Greenongh, and 
MartiiiMillinore. The actors ai'e AV. F. Johnson, G. H. Hills, Charlotte Cushman 
and E. L. Davenport. The military and naval officers born at Boston are Gen. 
Henry Knox, Admiral Sir T. A. Coffin, Sir R. H. Sheafle, Admiral C. H. Davis, 
Gen. Chas. Devens, Jr., Gen. C. R. Lowell, Gen. T. G. Stevenson, and ]uauy 
others of eminence. 



The main halls of the Old State House have recently been restored and 
dedicated as a Museum (open, free, 9-5 daily), containing many colonial 
pictures and other relics of great interest. 

On outer Newbury St. the beautiful new church for the Hollis-St Uni- 
tarian society, and the costly and elegant First Spiritual Temple (Spiritu- 
alist) are being built. 

Among the new statues erected in Boston are the Charles Sumner, on 
the Public Garden ; Mayor Quiney, in front of the City Hall; Gov. John 
Winthrop, on Scollay Square; Sam. Adams, near the corner of Washing- 
ton and Brattle Sts.; and the Emancipation Group, Park Sq. Statues of 
William Lloyd Garrison, Theodore Parker, Harriet Martineau, Col. Robert 
G. Shaw, and others are in preparation. 



20 Routed. ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 



2. Environs of Boston. 

"As you approach Boston the roughest region is yet a region of homes 

Man may sometimes deform, but he ofteuest improves Nature ; it is mere cant to 
assert the contrary. And I know no better illustration of the fact than the eiivirous 

of Boston The approach to Boston is almost the only pictui-esque city-view 

we have on the Atlantic coast. The broad reaches of water, the cheerful suburbs on 
either hand, the long, gently rising bi-ick liill in front, crowned with the yellow 
dome of the .State House, when seen in the tempered evening light, under a cloudless 
sky, form an imposing and truly attractive picture. New York, from the bay, sug- 
gests conunercial activity only ; Piiiln<lelphia, from the Delaware, is the tamest of 
cities ; but Boston, from any side, owing to her elevation, has a stately charm which 
her prouder sisters do not possess." — Batard Taylor. 

'•In her southern suburbs, however, — in Roxbury and the hills beyond, and 
princely Brookhne, and Brighton, — Boston may challenge comparison with almost 
any city in the world. This undulating region, dotted with crystal ponds, superbly 
wooded, and covered for miles with country-seats in every conceivable style of archi- 
tecture, from the once-prevalent Grecian temple to the now fiishiouable mansard- 
roof, is a portfolio crammed with delicious pictures. The velvet turf, golden-greeu 
in sunshiue, the trim buckthorn hedges, the trellised roses, the commingling of 
pine, elm, maple, larch, chestnut, and fir in the groves, the unexpected dells and 
water-glimpses, the gleam of towers and mellow-tinted house-fronts for and near, 
the old avenues, ribbed with Gothic boughs, are among their features, and you can 
scarcely say that anything is wanting." 

" It is not only in the Harvard precincts that the oldness of New England is to 
be remarked. Although her people are everywhere in the vanguard of all pro- 
gress, their country has a look of gable-ends and steeple-hats, while their laws 
seem fresh from the liands of Alfred. In all England there is no city which has 
suburbs so gray and venerable as the elm-shaded towns around Boston, — Dorches- 
ter, Chelsea, Nahant, and Salem ; the people speak the English of Elizabeth, and 
joke about us — ' he speaks good English for an Englishman.'" — «ir Chakles 

DiLKE. 

Boston Harbor. 
The Houte to Nahant. Soon after leaving India Wliarf, with East 
Boston on the left, Governor's Island is passed. Tliis island 

was granted to Governor Winthrop in 1632, and was long called Gover- 
nor's Garden, and here, according to Josselyn, in 1638, were the only 
apple and pear trees in New England. A powerful fortress of the United 
States, called Fort Winthrop, now occupies the island. Soon after pass- 
in-^"- the Fort the view includes the narrow strait between Point Shirley 
on the 1. and Deer Island on the r. The point was named in honor 
of William Shirley, Governor of Massachusetts 1741 to 1756, sometime 
commander of the British armies in America, and Governor of the Ba- 
hama Islands. It now forms the S. end of the town of Winthrop, and 
is occui)ied by Taft's Hotel, widely renowned for its excellent fish and 
game dinners. Opposite Point Shirley is Deer Island (1^ M. from 
Boston), " so-called because of the deare, who often swim thilher from 
the maine when they are chased by the wolves " (17th century). During 
the war of King Philip (1675-76) this place presented a pitiful sight, 
for hundreds of Indian prisoners were landed and guarded here, and 
scores of them died of hunger and from exposure to the winter frosts. At 
present the island is occuiued by the immense buildings (in the form of a 



ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. Routed. 21 

Latin Cross) of the Boston Almshouse, and of the House of Industry and 
the House of Reformation. 

In May, 1776, the Boston privateers "Franklin" and ''Lady Wash- 
ington " grounded on Point Shirley, and were attacked by thirteen British 
man-of-war boats. The action lasted for several hours, until the tide 
rose, when the privateers escaped. In the war of 1812 the frigate ''Con- 
stitiitioji " was once blockaded in Boston Harbor, and got away by creep- 
ing through Shirley Gut by night. Beyond Point Shirley the lofty bluffs 
of Winthrop are passed on the 1., succeeded bj-^ Chelsea Beach with its 
hotels, and the City and Harbor of Lynn, in full view of which the wharf 
at Nahant is gained. 

Nahant. 

Eastern Railroad to Ljiin, 
and tlience by omnibus 6 times daily. 

Hotels. — The immense hotel at East Point, built 1824, and long the pride of 
the coast, was burned in 1861 ; there remain but small hotels, — Whitney's Vil- 
lage Hotel, Hotel Nahant, Hood Cottage, charging $10- 15 a week. 

Nahant is a peninsula composed of ocean-swept rocks, with pleasant 
beaches interspersed, and vUlas scattered over its heights, where many of 
the cultured and literary people of Boston and Camln-i.lge spend their 
summers. It is 12 M. from Boston by water and 4 M. from Lynn by 
land. Crossing the long and narrow sandy isthmus called Lynn Beacli, 
witli the roar of surf continuous on the ocean-front, the rocky ridge 
of Little Nahant is passed, and Nahant Beach extends to the peninsula 
proper. Mr. Tudor, who for years supplied Massachusetts ice to the 
four quarters of the world, and hence is called the " Ice-King," has fitted 
up a pleasant resort for visitors on the north side of Nahant. About 20 
acres of picturesque grounds along the sea, adorned with fountains and 
shell-work, and commanding a fine view of Lynn and Swampscott, com- 
pose this Garden of Maolis (Siloam). Entrance fee, 25 cts. A good 
fish or clam dinner may be had in the Maolis pavilions. Among the 
jagged and savage-browed cliffs of Nahant are numberless curious forma- 
tions of tlie rock, named as follows : John's Peril, a deep chasm in the 
cliifs, on the north, and near Nahant Beach ; the Spouting Horn, where 
the surf dashes through a long, rocky tunnel into a cavern, and there is 
spouted forth with great force ; Castle Rock, a massive and regular pile 
of rock, faintly resembling some ancient castle-keep ; Caldron Cliff and 
Roaring Cavern are grandly resonant in time of storms; Natural Bridge, 
an arch of rock spanning a narrow, tide-swept fissure ; Pulpit Rock ; and 
Sappho's Rock. The three last-named are on East Point, the site of the 
vast hotel, of which a relic remains, in the shape of a pretty little classic 
building on the outermost promontory, which looks like an ancient Greek 
shrine on «ome cliff of the ^Egean, and wliich really was a billiard- 
saloon. 



22 Route 2. ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 

On the S. sliore is Swallows' Cave, a cavern 72 ft. deep, increasing 

from 10 ft. wide and 5 ft. high to 14 ft. wide and 20 ft. high. Near the 

tall rock arch called Irene's Grotto is the steamboat landing, N. E. 

of the peninsula, and well out in NaJiant Bay, Egg Rock rises sharply 

from the sea to the height of 86 ft., and is crowned by a lighthouse. 

Many old traditions cluster around Nahaut, whose name is said to mean 

''Lovers' Walk." 

" The temperature of Nahant, being moderated by sea breezes, so as to be cooler 
iu summer and milder in winter than tlie mainland, is regarded as being highly 
L'omlucive to liealth. It is delightful in summer to ramble roimd this romantic 
Xieninsula, and to examine at leisure its interesting curiosities ; to hear the waves 
rippling the colored pebbles of the beaches, and see them gliding over the pro- 
jecting Ied'j;t's in fanciful cascades ; to behold the plovers and sandpipers running 
alnng the beaches, the seal slumbering upon tlie outer rocks, the wliite guUs 
soarmg overhead, the porpoises pursuing their rude gambols along the shore, and 
the curlew, the loon, the black duck, and tlie coot, tlie brant, with his dapjiled 
neck, and the oldwife, with her strange, wild, vocal melody, swimming gracefully 
in the coves and rising and sinking Avith the swell of the tide. The moonlight even- 
ings here are exceedingly lovely ; and the phosphoric radiance of the billows, on 
favorable nights (making the watei's h)ok like a sea of fire) exhibits a scene of 
wonderful beauty. " — Lewis. 

The Route to Hull, Hingham, etc. So many are the routes by water 
to the South Shore that the islands in that part of the harbor will be 
spoken of without regard to any special course. 

S. Boston is first passed on the right, and then Fort Winthrop, near 
■which, due E. of S. Boston, is Castle Island. Fortifications were built 
here iu 1634, " to make many shots at such ships as shall offer to enter 
the harbor without their good leave and liking ; it is of very good use 
to awe any insolent persons, that, putting confidence in their ships and 
sails, shall offer any injury to the people, or contemn their government ; 
and they have certain signals of alarms (cannon and lights on Beacon Hill) 
■which suddenly spread throiigh the whole country." At the coronation 
of King William, the battery was called Castle William, and was much 
strengthened by the British, until at the evacuation of Boston tlicy de- 
stroyed it. It was repaired by the Americans in time to tire a 13-gun 
salute for the surrender of Burgoyne (1777). In 1798, President John 
Adaius being present, it was named Fort Independence, and ceded to the 
United States. The present fort is now used as an ordnance-depot. 

In 240 years the little mud fort, passing through the gradations of a 
wooden palisade and a brick "castle," has developed into a granite fort- 
ress of great power and destructive force. S. E. of Castle Island is Spec- 
tacle Island, where are carried the dead horses from Bos' on, and farther 
S. is Thompson's Island, which bears the Farm School, — a noble 

institution, where neglected street arabs and poor orphans 
are cared for. Well-fed and clothed, they are employed in farming in the 
■wanner months, and schooling in the winter, and at tlie age of twenty- 
oilfe receive a suit T)f clothes and one hundred dollars. Eastward of 



ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. Route 2. 23 

Thompson's is Long Island (where the steamer stops), the site of a large 
hotel once very popular. On the high bluffs of this island is an iron 
lighthouse which can be seen from 15 M. off at sea. A powerful bat- 
tery is being built by the General Government at the head of Long Island. 
E, of the battery is the reef of Nix's Mate, with a massive pyramid of 
stone and iron 32 ft. high, warning seamen of a dangerous shoal. In 1636 
" Nixes ilande" covered 12 acres, and it long served as a place to execute 
pirates and murderers. The legend reports that Captain Nix was killed 
by his mate, and that the latter was executed on this spot, declaring his 
innocence, and prophesying that the island would wash away in proof of 
it. The fact that but one acre of shoal, and a low, narrow ledge of rocks 
remain, is thought to help the legend very much. 

S. E. of Long Island, and 7 M. from Boston, is Rainsford's Island, 
where a hospital was located in 1738. Here is the city alms-house. Gal- 
loup's Island, to tlie N., is one of the Quarantine Stations. Still farther 
E., on George's Island, stands Fort Warren, a powerful fortress of the 
first class, called the key of Boston Harbor. It was built between 1833 
and 1850, of hammered Quincy granite, with pov,'erful water-batteries. Dur- 
ing the Rebellion many Confederate chiefs were imprisoned in its case- 
mates, the most noted of whom were Mason and Slidell, taken from the 
Britisli mail-steamer '' Trent," Nov. 8, 1861, by Capt. Wilkes, of the 
U. S. frigate " San Jacinto." The British government made a peremptory 
demand, and President Lincoln finally surrendered these rebel commis- 
sioners, who went to Europe in January, 1862. E. of Fort War- 
ren, on a small islet at the entrance of the harbor, stands the massive 
stone shaft of Boston Light. This structure occupies the site of the 
lighthouse established in 1715, and is furnished with a powerfid revolving 
light nearly 100 ft. above the sea. To the N. is a cluster of rocky 
islets; and to tlic W. is the Bug Light, where iron pillars uphold a small 
house, over which is a lixed red light. 

Hull (* llotd Ptmherton ; Oregon House ; St. Cloud), 

the teiTninus of the beach railway which diverges from the Old Colony 
li'. K. beyond Hingham, is a small village under the lee of a high hill, 
crowned by a marine observatory', much visited during the summer. Tl.e 
town of Hull occupies the great natural breakwater which runs N. and W. 
from the South Shore, and guards the iiarbor. Its population is pmall, and 
its alertness in political campaigns, joined with its practical insignificance 
therein, do not fail to draw forth much good-humored jesting from the Bos- 
tonians. The railroad and highway run seaward by Point Allcrton (from 
Isaac Allcrton, an adventurous Pilgrim, who cruised the coast of IMaine in 
t!ie barque "White Angel" for several years, early in the 17th century). 
The road now leads out on Nantasket Beach, a line of hard and snrf-bcatcn 
white sand, 4 M. long. The bathing here is capital, and driving is eas}' and 



24 Route 2. HINGHAM. 

pleasant at low tide. Near the S. end of the beach are the Rockland 
and Atlantic Houses, first-class hotels accommodating several hundred 
guests each ($4.50 a day), and many smaller hotels and restaurants. 

The steamboats run from Boston to this locality several times daily, in 
summer, and also to Hingham and to the modern summer resort of Downer 
Landing (* Rose Standish House), in the harbor. The picnic-grounds of 
Melville Gardens are at Downer, and several neat little cottages are seen 
upon the bluff above. A fine harbor-side road leads hence to Hingham. 

The Jerusalem Road runs S. from the Hingham-Nantasket road to 
Cohasset, following the curves of the ocean-shore, and generally on high 
hills and cliffs. The scenery along this route is grand, and many wealthy 
Bostonians have built villas there, with wide lawns running down to the 
surf. The Black-Rock House and Pleasant- Beach House are good hotels 
on tills road. 

Hingham is a curious old village, near Nantasket, and S. of the har- 
bor, which was settled in 1635, and was often ravaged during the In- 
dian wars. Its first pastor came from Hingham, in England, and gave 
its name to the struggling colony. Situated amid fine coast-scenery, but 
12 M. (by water) from Boston, this "Marine Old Hadley" drew many 
visitors, and its large hotel, the Old Colony House (burned in Octo- 
ber, 1872) was Avell patronized. A quaint edifice on the main st. near 
the Railroad Station, built nearly square, v;ith the roof sloping steeply 
up on 4 sides to a balustraded platform, surmounted by a narrow-pointed 
belfry, is "the oldest church in Yankeedom." It was built in 1681, 
for the Congregational Society of Hingham, wlio still use it. 

Behind the chiirch is the * old graveyard, covering a finely terraced hill, and 
containing linudreds of ancient stones. In the southern part is a plain and grace- 
ful obelisk of granite, on which are inscribed the names of 70 soldiers of Hing- 
ham who died in the war for the Union. On tlie highest hill, on a mound 
surrounded by a circuhir earthwork, is a tall obelislc of granite " To tlic early 
settlers of Hingham." Elsewhere rests, und'-r a noltle statue, John Albion An- 
drew, the great war-governor of Massachusetts, who, during the battle-years 
ISGi -65, did more than any other man to raise, equip, and forward to the lield 
the immense levies of troops from this State. He was distinguislied for fervid 
eloquence, great executive ability, and tender provision for the disat)lpd saldiei's. 
He died in 1S(>7. Near the entrance to the cemetery is the tomb of Ben.iamin 
Lincohi, a m;i.j(n--general in the Continental Army, second in cnuimand of the 
Army of the North which cai)tured Burgoyne, commander of t!ic Army of tlie 
ISoutli, 1778-80, repulsed from Savannah and Stono Ferry. After enduring a 
siege of 6 weeks at Charleston (spring of 17S0), he was forced to surrender to 
Sir Henry Clinton. Having been excdianged, he commanded the centre at York- 
town, and was Secretary of War, 1781 - Si. He died at Hingham, his birtlqdace 
(1733), in 1810. 

The Charlestown District includes the ancient city of Charlestown, 
which was annexed to Boston in 1873. It has about 31,000 inhabit- 
ants, 2 banks, 2 savings-banks, 3 papers, 13 ehurclies, and large sugar- 
refineries, tanneries, distillerie.s, bakeries, etc. Two bridges cioss the 
Charles River to Boston ; one leads to E. Cambridge ; and another crosses 
the broad Mystic River to Chelsea. In the S. part is City Square, 



ENVIi;ONS OF BOSTON. Route 2. 25 

where extensive domed !juildin,£;:s on the left were formerly occupied as the 
Waverly Hotel. Near by is the old City Hall, in which is a fine library 
and rearling-room. Main St., to the right, leads to the United States 
Navy Yard, covering over 100 acres, and separated from the city by a 
heavy stone-wall, 16 ft. high. A sea-wall extends along the water-front, 
broken only by a fevv^ wluirves and a great dry-dock, built of hammered 
granite, 341 ft. long and 80 ft. wide, and costing nearly $700,000. 
Various construction-depots, magazines of naval stores, barracks, and. 
work-shops are in the yard; also 4 large ship-houses, and a granite- 
built rope-walk, \ M. long. In one of the ship-houses is the old line-of- 
battle-ship "Virginia" (designed for 120 guns), which has been on the 
stocks for nearly half a century. 

Charlestown has a handsome soldiers' monument, — on a tall pedestal, a 
figure of America cro^vning representatives of the x\rmy and Navy, who 
stand below hei\ On the path near Bunker Hill Monument is a fine 
statue of Gen. Joseph Warren, who was killed on the Hill. 

On Prison Point are the great granite buildings formerly occupied by 
the Massachusetts State Prison, and now, since the removal of that insti- 
tution to Concord, used for various manufacturing purposes by private 
corporations. The four northern railroads enter Boston near tins point, 
crossing the Charles River, and wellnigh hiding the stream under their 
long and multitudinous bridges. 

Not far from the prison is an ancient cemetery, where a simple and mas- 
sive granite shaft has been erected by Harvai-d. alumni^ to the memory of 
John Harvard, the early benefactor of the University. 

The principal attraction of Charlestown is * Bunker Hill Monument, 
a lofty obelisk on the site of the battle of Breed's Hill (1775). It is built 
of 90 courses of Quincy granite, is 221 ft. in height, and 30 ft. square 
at the base. A spiral flight of 295 ste^^s, ranged around a hollow cone, 
leads to a chamber 11 ft. in diameter, with windows on each side. 
Above is the apex-stone, weighing 1\ tons. (A small fee, 20 cts., is charged 
for admission. Books about the monument, &c. , sold in the porter's lodge). 

The *view from the top is glorious. From the S. E. window the 
Navjf Yaixl is seen, with all its manifold activities, — its ship-houses, 
dry-dock, rope-walk, and frigates. Beyond this is the confluence of the 
Charles and Mystic Rivers, and East Boston ; above which is Fort War- 
ren at George's Island at the mouth of the harbor. Forts Winthrop 
and Independence, and the archipelago of variously utilized islands which 
dot the harbor, all are visible from this point. From the S. W. 
window is seen the city of Boston, with Copp's Hill nearest on the 1. 
and the spires and domes of its church and state buildings rising on all 
sides. The great network of the northern railroads and highways crosses 
Charles River below, while, beyond the city, the southern and western 
2 



2G Route 2. ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 

roads emerge. Farther still, on the r., is S. Boston, aiid over it, 
Qnincy, Dorchester, ami the bine hills of Milton. Over Boston are Rox- 
bury and Brookline, and directly below are the houses of Charlestown. 
From the N. W. window, the State Prison, Cambridge, and Brighton, 
the McLean Asylum, the Harvard Observatory, the city of Somerville, 
Arlington, and Medford. It is said that, in very clear weather, with a 
strong glass, may be seen Mt. Wachusett (over Cambridge), and succes- 
sively to _ the r., Mt. Monadnock, Kearsarge, and the White Mts. in 
New Hampsliire. From tlie N. E., Everett, and Revere with its beach, 
the city of Chelsea, with the U. S. Marine Hospital, and, over it, the 
city of Lynn. Naliant rmis into the sea to tlie r. 

The comer-stone of this stately monument was laid in 1825 by General La 
Fayette, on the fiftieth anniversary of tlie battle. It was completed in 1842, and 
dedicated on the sixty-eighth anniversary of the battle, in the presence of Presi- 
dent Tyler and his cabinet, and with an oration by Daniel Webster. In the upper 
cliamber are two cannon, named "Hancock" and "Adams," each inscribed, 
" This is one of four cannons whicli constituted the whole train of tield-artillery 
possessed by the British colonies of North America at the commencement of the 
war, on the 19th of April, 1775. This cannon and its fellow, belonging to a num- 
ber of citizens of Boston, were used in many engagements during the v/ar. The 
other two, the prox^erty of the Government of Massachusetts, were taken by the 
enemy." 

Battle of Bunker Hill. 

" In their rapsed regimentals 
Stood the old Continentals, 

Yieldms not. 
When the grenadiers were hinging, 
And lilte hail tell the plunging 
Cannon-shot ; 
Wlicre the tiles 
Of the isles 
From the smoky night-encampment hore the banner of the rampant unicorn. 
And gruminer, grummer, grummer, rolled the roll of the drummer through the morn." 

After an impressive prayer by President Langdon, of Harvard College, on a 
starry night of Jane, 1775, Colonel Prescott led a thousand men to Bunker Hili. 
His force was composed of troops from Essex, Middlesex, and Connecticut, Avith 
Gridley's artillery. His orders were to fortify the hill, but a council of officers of 
the detachment changed the plan, and they occupied Breed's Hill, as much nearer 
Boston and more surely conuuandiug the roads to the north. The work Avas 
comme4iced at mididght, umler the supervision of General Gridley, an old veteran 
of the Louisbourg and Canadian wars, and by dawn th«y had t^ompleteil a redoubt 
132 ft. square and 6 ft. high. The frigates in Charles River first saw it, and 
opened a tremendous fire, which awoke all Boston. The liatteries on Copp's Hill 
then opened lire, and at noon 2,000 picked nu'U from the Biitish garrison crossed 
the river. The New England flag (blue, with iSt. George's Cross on the pine-tree 
emblem) was hoisted over the redoubt, and the 1st and 2d New Ham]>shii-e rein- 
forced the weary provincials. At 2 o'clock 2,000 more soldiers crossed from Bos- 
ton, and soon after, after a fiu-ious cannonade from Copp's Hill and the fleet, the 
British column advanced. Gen. Putnam ordered the Americans to hold their 
fire until they could see the whites of the assailants' eyes ; and 1500 silent and 
determined men waited till that a])pointed time, and then fired. "Whole platoons 
of the British regulars were laid upon the earth, like grass by the mower's scythe. 
Other deadly volleys followed, and the enemy, disconcerted, broke, and fled 
toward the water." While they rallied, the C<ipp's Hill guns ^^h()wered hot shot 
and carcasses on Charlestown. 200 houses soon were buruiiig, and under cover of 
dense masses of smoke the royal foi'ces advanced again. The volley at short 
range, the t;arnage, and the flight of the Bi'itish, was repeated. The American 
ammunition was now exhausted, the presence of floating batteries raking Charles- 



ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. Routed. 27 

town Neck prevented either reinforcements or fresh supplies from reaching them ; 
and the British, lieavily reinforced, and maddened by their losses, advanced a 
third time. The outworks, swept by tlie sliot from the fleet, were abandoned, and 
vi^hen tlie grenadiers rose upon the parapet of the redoubt, they M'ere received 
by a shower of stones, and confronted by men witli clubbed muskets. Soon Put- 
nam ordered a retreat, which was covered admirably by the troops of New Hamp- 
sliire and Connecticut. But tlie reserves on Bunker Hill, the roai'-guai'd, aud the 
shattered garrison from Breed's Hill, were unequal to fiu'ther etfort, and there 
ensued a general dehandade across tlie cannon-sweiJt Charlestown Neclv. The day 
was ended ; and although Howe soon moved the bulk of his army on these hills, 
which he strongly fortified, no furtlier combats were seen here. In tiie battle of 
the 17th of June, the Americans lost 115 killed, 303 wounded, and 30 prisoners ; 
the British lost 22(j killed, 828 wounded (Gage's report). 400 luuises were burnt 
in Chai'lestown, and 5 cannon were taken on Bunker flill. During the retreat 
..'rom the redoulit, Putnam swore frightfully at his men, and after the war, sin- 
cerely confessing it to the ciiurcli oi' wliich he was a member, he added, " It was 
almost enough to make an angel swear, to see the cowards refuse to secure a vic- 
tory so nearly won." Among the last to leave the hill was Warren, and ere he 
had gone far he was killed by a shot in tlie head. Joseph Warren, born Roxbury, 
1740, was the head of the medical profession in Boston, and a wise and patriotic 
leader of the people. He was the President of the Provincial Congress, a major- 
general of the army, and Grand Master of the Masonic Order in America. "He 
fell with a numerous band of kindred sinrits — the gray-haired veteran, the strip- 
ling in the flower of youth — who had stood side by side on that di'eadful day, 
and fell together, like the beauty of Israel in their high places." — Everett. 

Clielsea (Winnisimmet), (Citi/ Jlotel), a city of 24,000 inhabitants, is 
connected with Boston by a steam ferry (1| M.), and with Charlesto^vn 
by a long bridge over the Mystic River. The Naval Hospital and the U. 
S. Marine Hospital, the latter a large and stately building, are here. Near 
the Railroad Station is a Soldiers' Monument, — a shaft of granite with a 
statue of a soLlier standing at ease upon its summit. Woodlawn Ceme- 
tery is about 2 M. from the city, ami is approached by a graceful ave- 
nue, leading through a lofty Gothic gateway. The Rock Tower, to the 
right, is a rude pile of boulders, 78 ft. in diameter and 30 ft. high, 
from which a pretty view is obtained. Netherwood and Woodside Aves. 
form beautiful vistas, with the quiet grace of American cemeteries on 
every hand. Netherwood Pond, the views from Chai:)el and Elm Hills, 
and the curious Ginko trees, are worthy of attention. 

Chelsea has 13 cliurches, 2 newspapers, a costly high-school building, a 
bank, and some manufactures. It was settled in 1630, and incorporated 
i)i 1738, and was so unprogressive for many decades that the saying " As 
tlcad as Chelsea " became proverbial. Many persons doing business in 
Boston live here, favored by clieap rents in this quiet and pleasant city, 
Ryvere Beach is 2 - 3 M. distant, and is reached by horse-cars (see page 
409). 

The Mass. Soldiers' Homo (for veterans of the Civil War) is on Chelsea Highlnnds 
(the ancient Powder-IIorn Hill), over the suburb of Careyville. The hill is 300 ft. 
iufxh, and commands a superb view, including Boston Harbor, the Ocean, the Fdue 
Hills, ten cities and many villages, and the mountains on the N. W. It is near a 
station of the Eastern R. II , anil but a short drive from Kevere Beach. 

The Chelsea pottery and tiles arc famous for their artistic beauty ; also, the tile 
stoves and Magee furnaces. 



28 Routed. ENVir.OXS OF BOSTON. 

Lexington and Concord. (See page 405.) 

The * Massachi'sctf.-: Floiisr, at Lpxini^tnn, \\as built for llie headiiuarters of tlie 
State on tlie Philadelphia-Centennial fjrnnnds, and afterwards removed to this 
village. It is a qnaint-appearins structure, in colonial architecture, and now 
serves for a hotel and summer-resort. 

Lexington {Monument House), a quiet and pretty village 12 to 15 
M. N. W. of Boston, is built on one long street, terminating on the 
west in a broad green, on which is a plain monument, more solid than 
graceful, in memory of 8 men killed here during the battle. 

Concord {M iddlesex Hotel), near the tranquil Concord River, and 
the j miction of the Assabet and Sudbury Rivers (so-called), is a hand- 
some village of about 4,0Q0 inhabitants, and about 20 M. from Boston. 
In 1635 Peter Bulkley, of St. John's College, Cambridge, and 21 years 
rector of Odell, v/as silenced by Archbishop Laud, and fled to America. 
In 1636 he purchased of the Indians a tract of laud at Musketaquid, and 
founded the town and church of Concord, so-named from the peaceful 
manner of its acquisition. Bulkley Avi^ote some Latin poems and Puritan 
theological theses, and "was as remarkable for benevolence and kind deal- 
ing as for strict virtue." 

But it is during the present century that the lives of three of the foremost 
literary men of America have made Concord famous. Henry D. Thoreau (H. 
U., 1827), an eccentric yet profound scholar and naturalist, in 1845 built 
himself a hut on the shores of the sequestered Walden Pond (1 M. S. E. of 
the village), where he led a recluse life, raising a few vegetables, and occasion- 
ally surveying or carpentering to get money for his slight exjienses. He never 
voted, never entered a church, never jiaid a tax. Profoundly skilled in classic 
and Oriental literature, and an ardent naturalist, his chief deUght was to make 
long pedestrian excursions to the forests and lakes and ocean-shores of New 
England. Of himself he said, " I am as unfit for any practical purpose as gossa- 
mer is for shii)-timber." " Thoreau dedicated his genius, with such entire love, to 
the fields, hills, and waters of liis native town, that he made them known and in- 
teresting to all. He grew to he revered and admired by his townsmen, who had 
at lirst known him oilly as an oddity." — Emerson. He died in 1862, leaving his 
great work unlinishetl, and his only remains are several quaint and charming 
books of travel. 

Ralph Waldo Emerson (H. U., 1821), "tlie sage of Concord," or, as Fredrika 
Bremer calls him, "the Sphinx in Concord," is the head of the school of 
transcendental philosojiliy in America and in the world. Descended from 
seven generations of mini.sters, and himself sometime a minister, in early life 
h.e joined, and since has led, the most advanced and refined school of modern 
transcendental philosoi)liy. His writings are " distinguished for a singular union 
of poetic imagmation with practical acuteness," and also by a remarkable pungency 
and com]iresscd iorcc. During his visits to Euro])e nuich honor has been shown 
him, and many of the greatest minds of the century have visited "the pretty little 
idyllian city of Concord " (Bremer) to liold interviews with him. Thoreau, G. W. 
Curtis, in his residence at Concord in 1844 - 45, and Hawthorne have been his 
friends at home. (The old Emerson homestead was burnt, July 24, 1872, sliortly 
after which the X'hilosopher went to Europe for a long absence.) lie died in 1883. 

Nalhaniel Hawthorne (Bowdoin College, 1825), whose exquisite prose composi- 
tion is world-renowned, lived at Conctnd in 1843-40, and here wrote the "Mosses 
from an Old Manse." (Sec Salem, Mass.) 

The Battle of Concord and Lexington. 

At midnight, April IS, 177-5, General Gage sent SOO grenadiers and light infantry 



ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. Route 2. 29 

to destroy the military stores collected by the Americans at Concord. " At first 
the whole country ap})eared buried in a general sleep, .... till the deep tones 
of a distant church-bell came sweeping down the valley in whi(?h they marched, 

ringing peal on jjcal, in the quick, si)irit-stirring sounds of an alarm Bell 

began to answer bell in every direction, .... fires blazed along the heights, tlie 
bellowing of the conchs and horns mingled with the rattling of the muskets and 
the various tones of the bells " (Cooper), and when the troops dejiloyed on Lexing- 
ton Green, at dawn, 100 militiamen confronted them. "Disperse, ye rebels, 
throw down your arms, and disperse ! " cried the British commander, Pitcairn. A 
Aolley from the light infantry broke the line which refused to obey Pitcairn's or- 
der, and under the smoke of the first shots of the War of Independence eight 
Americans lay dead on the green. Now by a rax)id march the invaders occujiied 
Concord, 6 M. distant, and destroyed such of the military stores as had not 
been removed. Meanwhile, 400 minute-men had gathered near the north bridge, 
1 M. from the Common, and soon tliey attacked and drove away 3 companies 
of light infantry detailed to guard it, ujion which the retreat to Boston was 
ordered. All military order among the provincials was at an end ; minute-men 
were collecting from all points ; from every house, barn, and stone-wall guns 
were fired with sure aim ; and the red uniforms of dead and M'ounded recnilars 
strewed the long road. |- M. E. of Lexington church, the remnant of the de- 
tachment was reini'orced by Lord Percy, with '-i regiments, 2 divisions of maruies, 
and a battery. The jiitiless i>rovincials worried them until they reached Prospect 
Hill, in Cambridge, where 700 men of E^sex, with the militia of Dorchester and 
lloxbury, stopped, and held the flower of the British army until Percy's artil- 
lery drove them from tlie field, and the noble Ntu-thumbrian led his shattered 
colun^ns on Bunker Hill, under protection of the fleet. On this memorable day, 
the royal forces lost 65 killed, ISO wounded, and 28 prisoners ; while the Ainericaus 
lost 5i) killed, 39 wounded, and 5 missing. 

Cambridge. 

W. of Boston (horse-cars from Bowdoin Sq.) is the ancient academic 
city of Cambridge, on the Charles River. Abont 3^ M. from Boston are 
the spacious grounds and buiklings of Harvard University. 

Cambridge was settled shortly after Boston, under the name of Newtown. In 
1636, the legislature of Massachusetts (tlien, and occasionally now, called the 
General Court) voted £ 400 for tlie establishment of a school here. In 1G3S John 
Harvard, the young pastor of Charlestown (from Emanuel College, in Old Cam- 
bridge,), died, leaving to the young school his library and about £ 800 in money. 
Then the General Court advanced the school into a college, and named it Harvard, 
changing also the name Newtown into Cambridge, in memory of the old univer- 
sity town where, and especially at Emanuel College, so many of the founders of 
the new State had studied. In 1640 Charlestowu Ferry was made an appanage 
of the College ; in 1642 its first class graduated ; and in 1650 the " President and 
Fellows of Harvard College " were incorpcjr.ited. Endowments and gifts now 
flowed in from the province and its citizens, and the young college became the 
]iride of New England. In 1696, of 121 clergymen in the eleven counties nearest 
to Cambridge, 104 were gi'aduates of Harvard. Many of the political leaders of 
the War of Independence were educated here, — Sauuiel Adams (class of 1740), 
James Otis (1743), Artemas Ward, first commander of the army (1748), John Han- 
cock (1754), Joseph Warren (1 75',>). In May, 1769, on the occujiation of Boston 
by royal troops, the legislature refused to sit "with British cannon pointing at 
their doors," so they adjourned to the college buildings. In 1775 the students 
were sent home, and the classic halls were turned into Isarracks for the Continen- 
tal soldiers. The library and ap]iaratus were sent to Andover and Concord. The 
headcpiarters of the American army of investment was near the College, and the 
army numbered 16,000 men in June, 1775. Of these, 11,500 were from Massachu- 
setts, 2,300 from Connecticut, 1,200 from New Hampshire, and 1,000 from Rhode 
Island. The left wing, under Ward, consisting of 15 Massacdiusetts regiments and 
Gridley's artillery, lay at Camln-idge. Later, Knox brought 55 cannon from the 
Lake Forts, and the New York volunteers and Morgan's Virginia riflemen joined 



30 Route 2. ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 

the camp. The 10,000 royal troops in Boston were environed by 20 miles of can- 
tonments, stretchijig from tlie Mystic Kiver to Roxbnry. Thomas, witli 4,000 
Massachusetts troops, and 4 comptuiies o!' ariillery, lield tlie Roxbury lines ; the 
Rliode Island men were at Jamaica Plain witli iSpencer's Connecticut regiment. 
The New Hampshire brigade Avas at Medford, and Putnam, with a Connecticut 
brigade, held Cliarlestown Neclv and picketted Bunker Hill. The siege was 
hardly over, and the College in order once more, when the great captive army of 
Burgoyne was led to Cambridge (Nov. 10, 1777). Tlie government ordered the 
college to be vacated, for the accommodation of the British and Hessian officers. 
But the collegiate autliorities, feeUng that enough had already been sacrificed by 
them in tlie cause of freedom, sent in such a spirited protest that the order was 
reconsidered, and the prisoners encamped on Winter and Prospect Hills until 
1779, when they were sent to Charlottesville, Virginia. 

In 1639 tlie first New England printing-press was set up here, and for its 
first works printed the " Freeman's Oath," " Tlie New England Alma- 
nac," and the "Bay Psalm Book." At present the vast University and 
Eiverside Presses turn out hundreds of thousands of volumes yearly. 

Margaret Fuller, Countess D'Ossoli, was born at Cambridge, 1810. A fine 
linguist and conversationalist, she became an enthusiastic tvansceudentalist, and, 
after writing several books, and spending some time in Europe, she married Count 
d'Ossoli, but was wrecked and lost on tlie Fire I.sland coast, returning, in 1S50. 

Oliver Wendell Holmes was born at Camliridge, 1809. A skilful physician, lec- 
turer, aud microscopist, he has been Professor of Anatomy and Physiology in 
Harvard University since 1847, and has found time to write many pleasant essays 
and liumorous X'oems, besides two or three novels and numerous medical lectures 
ami dissertations. 

James Russell Lowell was born at Cambridge, in 1S19. After writing several 
volumes of poetry, and spending some years in Europe, he returned, and succeeded 
Mr. Longfellow as Professor of Modern Languages, &c., in Harvard University. 
He has published "The Biglow Papers " (two series), — a political satire in the 
New England vernacular ; " The Cathedral," and " Under the Willows," his later 
poems ; and several volumes of i)rose. 

F. H. Hedge, the Unitarian theologian, Alfred Lee, Bishop of Delaware, and 
Rear-Admiral Charles H. Poor, were born in Cambridge. 

"Harvard College was founded at Cambridge only ninety years later than the 
greatest and wealthiest college of our Cambridge in Clil Enghmd. Puritan Har- 
vard is the sister rather than the daughter of our own Puritan Emanuel. Harvard 
himself, ami Dunster, the first President of Harvard, were among the earliest of 
the scholars of Emanuel. . . . Our English universities have not about them the 
classic repose, the air of study, which belongs to Cambridge, Massachusetts ; our 
Cambridge comes nearest to her daughter town, but even tlie English Cambridge 
has a breathing street or two, and a weekly market-day, while Cambridge in New 
England is one gi-eat academic grove, buried in a philosophic calm, which our 
universities cannot rival as long as men resort to them for other purposes than 
work." — Sir Charles Dilke. 

Among the most distinguished of the New-England-born alumni of Harvard 
may be named, Increase Mather (class of ](35()), Cotton Mather (1678), John Adams, 
second President of the United iStates (1755), John Quincy Adams, his son, sixth 
President of the United States (1787), Fisher x\mes (1774), W. E. Channing (1798), 
Edward Everett (1811), W. H. Prescott(1814), Jared Sparks and J. G. Palfrey (1815), 
Caleb Cushing and George Bancroft (1817), Ralph Waldo Emerson (1821), C. F, 
Adams (1825), O. W. Holmes (1829), Charles Sumner (1830), Wendell Phillips and 
J. L. Motley (1831), H. W. Bellows (1832), R. H. Dana, Jr., and H. D. Thoreau 
(1S37), J. R. Lowell (J 838), E. E. Hale (1839). 

The avei'age age at which youths enter Harvard is ISs years ; and the students 
are generally from the middle classes, —from families of hereditary culture. Mas- 
sachusetts lias about § of the stiulents ; New York has J ; and the Western States 
send 70 men. Prohi.ssorships of Music and of the History of Art have lately 
been established. 470 students board at Memorial Hall, at an average cost of 
§4.52 a week each. The Medical aud Denial Schools are in Boston. Between 



CAMBRIDGE. Route 2. 31 

IfiGI and 1670, 45 per cent of the Harvard graduates became ministers ; between 
1761 and 1770, 29 per cent ; and between 1861 and 1870, 5| per cent. 

The Ijuildings of the University are named generally in honoi- of its 
benefactors. The small brick building on the comer near the horse-car 
station contains the Law Library (13,000 volumes) embracing the stand- 
ard works on this subject by American, English, French, and German 
writers. The law-liall and the professorship were founded by Nathan 
Dane, an eminent Essex County jurist. The large and ornate edifice next 
to Dane Hall is known as Matthews Hall. Beyond this, and at right 
angles with it, is Massachusetts Hall, an ancient building which has been 
changed into two large rooms, the lower of which is occupied as a read- 
ing-room. 

Beyond Massachusetts Hall is Harvard Hall, with its sober ornaments 
and belfry, and then Hollis and Stoughton Halls, between which, and 
nearer the street is the quaint little edifice (said to have been built by 
Lady Holden's bounty) whicli was long used as a chapel, and was built 
early in tlie 18th century. Across the upper end of the quadrangle 
stretches the plain old Holwortliy Hall, back of which is the Lawrence 
Scientific School. Turning now on the other side, the first building is 
the new, lofty, and ornate Thayer Hall, behind which is the romanesque 
Appleton Chapel. Beyond Thayer is the simple and substantial Uni- 
versity Hall, built of granite, and next comes the modern and Mansard- 
roofed Weld Hall. University Hall is the seat of the University gov- 
ernment, which consists of the President and six Fellows, with a second 
branch (Board of Overseers) elected by the alumni. The system of 
elective studies and of special series of lectures is superseding the old 
rigid course and text -book plan, and Harvard is accepting the style, as 
well as gaining the power, of the German universities. There are about 
1,450 men in the various departments of study, with 55 professors and 
many tutors, &c . Four years' study procures the degree of B. A. ; three 
years covers the courses in the Divinity and Medical Schools, and two 
years in the Law School. Beyond Weld Hall the fourth side of the quad- 
rangle is occupied by the noble Boylston Hall (of granite, with several 
collections inside), and the modern Gray Hall. Opposite the wooden 
Wadsworth Hall is the Holyoke House (pertaining to the college) and 
nearly opposite Massachusetts Hall is the First Church, with its venerable 
graveyard. Gore Hall, beyond the quadrangle, contains the University 
Library. It is a neat building of Quincy granite, in the form of a Latin 
Cross, and in the 14th-century Gothic style. 

The new Law School is a large and stately stone building, designed by H. H. 
Richardson, and of very interesting architectural forms. The Jefferson Physical 
Laboratory stands N. of the College. A noble ideal statue of John Ilarvard {by D. 
C. Trench) was placed on the College delta in 1884. 



32 Route 2. ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 

Inside there are 10 colnnms on eacli side of a nave 112 ft. lonj;, with a .Groined 
roof 35 ft. high. About i:;'!,0()o volumes are kept in this hall, besides whirh the 
University has about 7(),(K).i volumes in 8 other libraries. In glass eases, tiirough- 
out the hall, are kept many literary curiosities : a MS. Ovid ot the 14th century ; 
letters of Washington ; Aristotle, in black-letter Latin MS. ; ancient Greek MSS. 
of Hippocrates, Gregory Nazianzcn, ifcc, with EvangelisLeries, Psalters, &c. ; old 
Hebrew MS. of Esther (in roll) ; the Gospels in Latin, 8th century (oldest MS. in 
America) ; illuminated Latin missals ; MS. Koran ; Sanscrit and Sianie.se bool-is 
in leaves ; 8 lieautiful Persian MSS. on silk paper ; book printed in Mexico City, 
1566 ; Rale's Dictionary of the Abenaki language, in liis own writing ; Eliot's 
Indian Bible ; Bay Psalm-Book (1640), first book printeil in America, north of 
Mexico ; medals, relics, autographs, &c. Busts of distinguished men surround 
the hall. 

The * Memorial Hall is N. of the quadrangle, and is fne mo.st stately 
and imposing building in Cambridge. It was erected in memory of the 
graduates and student.s of Harvard who fell in the War for the Union, 
and was dedicated in 1874, liaving co.st nearly $400,000. The building is 
of brick and Nova- Scotia stone, 310 ft. long, with a cloister at one end, 
and a hifty and massive tower near the other end. The * great liall (oi<en 
to visitors) is used for various public ceremonies ; and is also the dining- 
hall of the students. It is adorned by 64 portraits of benefactors of the 
college and ancient magnates of Massachusetts, by eminent artists (10 by 
Copley, 2 by Stuart, 3 by Trumbull, and others by Smybert, W, I\I. 
Hunt, Page, Harding, etc.). There are also many marble busts of 
famotis Americans, made by Powers, Story, Crawford, Greenough, and 
other sculptors. (Catalogues of the pictures an<l busts are kept near the 
main entrance.) Tlie diningdiall accommodates 1,000 per.sons, ])eiDg 164- 
ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and 80 ft. high, with a splendid roof of open timber- 
work, supported by hammer-beam trusses. It is one-third larger than 
the largest of tha English University dining-halls. At each end are 
carved screens and galleries ; and the great windows are to be filled with 
stained glass. The W. windov/ is 25 X 30 ft. in area, and is of stained 
glass, bearing the arms of the College, the State, and tlie United States. 
The walls are wainscoted in ash 22 ft. high, above which is red and black 
brick -work, witli belts of tiles. 

The Memorial Vestibule is 112 ft. long and 58 ft. higli, with a marble 
floor and a rich vaiilted ceiling of brown ash. At the ends are large and 
brilliant windows of stained glass ; and along the arcaded sides are 
tablets of marble beai'ing tlie* names, etc., of the 136 men of Harvard 
who died in the War for the Union. The great tower is entered from the 
ve.stiljule, and commands a beautiful view. It is open to the public dur- 
ing the vacation season. The Theatre is E. of tlie great tower, and is 
entered from the Memorial Vestibule. It seats 1,300 persons, and the 
.stage is 58 X 23 ft. in area. It is in the form of a half-amphitheatre, and 
is richly finislied in brown ash. The Theatre is to be used for the Com- 
mencement exercises and other oratorical exhibitions. Over its windows 



CAMBRIDGE. Route 2. 32 a. 

are sculptured heads of Demosthenes, Cicero, St. Chrysostom, Bossuet, 
Chatham, Burke, and Daniel Webster. 

" It is tliis building which holds the choicest hope and the bravest memory of 

the University The lofty vestibule, by silent iteration, V)ids one lay decip 

the foundation of S'^holarship upon national well-being, connecting as things 
inseparable the heroic sacrifice and the heroic devotion to learning. The great 
dining-hall i.s at oncctJ^he meeting-place of hundreds of young men, bound to- 
gether by all that makes youth glad ; and constantly before one are the faces of 
that long line of men, and of women too, who have joined the college by a tliou- 
sand ties to the New England of history. The stern ancestry of early Xew-Eng- 
land days, the opulent men and women whom Copley and Stuart painted wlieii 
the colonies were eonsciously and un(^onsciously husbanding their strength for 
the ajiproaching autonomy ; the fanuliar faces of presidents and professors, 
whose devotion to learning remains, as a precious legacy ; the younger, nearer 
face of the hero of young Harvard, brave, generous, dying "with the hafo of oblo- 
Quy, — all these forms and spiritual presences till the air of the great hall with 

soujething more than an aeademic glory Here is the centre of the Uni- 

vei-sity of to-day, binding the past and the future, making great things possible, 
because it holds and records great things achieved." — Horace E. Scudder. 

The Gymnasium is an octagonal building on the Delta, nearlj- oppo- 
site Memorial Hall. The large brick building of tlie Lawrence Scientific 
School is W. of Memorial Hall, and across the street from Holworthy 
Hall. It contains large and valuable collections of philosophical instru- 
ments, etc. N. of Memorial Hall, among pleasant groves, is Divinity 
Hall, the Unitarian Theological School. 

The Museum of Comparative Zoology is near the Divinity Hall. 
It is open daily, from 9 to 5, and contains large and valuable collections 
in natural history and archaeology. Among its treasures are Schlagint- 
weit's ethnographical collection of casts ol heads from India and High 
Asia ; large numbers of stuffed animals ; complete lines of shells and 
corals ; fossil plants and shells ; nests and eggs ; a cast of the megathe- 
rium ; and several valuable collections by eminent specialists. The Ob- 
servatory and the Botanical Gardens are on Garden St., on the high 
ground N. W. of the college. Just E. of the college-buildings are the 
residences of the president and several of the professors. 

The Old-Cambridge Baptist Church is to the E. of the college-grounds, 
and is a large and attractive Gothic structure of blue slate-stone, trimmed 
with granite, and adorned with several projecting porches and gables. 
The Comvion lies to the W. of the college, and contains a handsome 
monument to the memory of the 339 soldiel's of Cambridge who died in 
the War for the Union. Near this memorial are two ancient British can- 
non. Near the Common are the First Unitarian Church, the venerable 
Christ Churcli (Episcopal, and the Shepard-Memorial Church, which 
was erected by the Congregationalists in honor of Thomas Shepard, an 
Emanuel-CoUege divine who was pastor at Cambridge from 1635 to 16-19, 
and was one of the patrons and founders of the college. " Its location at 
Cambridge was due to him." The church is an elaborate Gothic struc- 
ture, of richly and variously colored Iloxbury pudduig-stoue ; and its 



32 h. Route 2. CAMBRIDGE. 

walls are lirokon bj' cloistered passages ami a tall spire. In front of this 
edifice is the carefully protected Washing-ton Sim, which is thought to 
be 300 years old. Near it the old Indian councils took place, and, at a 
later day, the town-meetings ; and under its foliage, July 3, 1775, Wash- 
ington assumed the comman<l of the armies of America. 

*The Episcopal Theological School is in this vicinitj-, on Brattle St., 
and is of recent foundation, occupying several handsome gable-roofed 
buildings of Roxbury stone, with brown-ash interior trimmings. The 
library is opposite the entrance, and the refectory is adjacent. 
The S. front of the quadrangle is formed by the beautiful Memorial 
Church of St. John, erected at a cost of $ 50,000 by a citizen of Boston, 
in memory of his brother, the Rev. Chas. JMason. The great W. window 
is of London stained glass, and represents Christ, St. John, and St. Paul. 
" Sitting low on the ground, and surrounded by fine greensward, the 
church is a small, low-roofed, many-gabled buihiing, full of picturesque 
niches and corners, a many-sided a/jsis, filled with stained glass, and with 
its facings and trimmings of Nova-Scotia stone, with here and there bits 
of dark color and fine carvings." 

The Harvard Annex, with head-quarters on Appian Wa}', has 40 young women 
studying in the University course. Opposite the Episcopal School is the mansion 
bi.iit before 1736; held by the Vassall family until 1775: and later a hospital for 
the wounded from Bunker Hill. Farther out on Brattle St., beyond the old Lech- 
mere, Lee, and Fayerwether mansions, is Eimioood, an old colonial house, now 
owned by James Russell Lowell. 

Fi)rt 'Washington, near the river, is the carefully kept remnant of one of 'Wash- 
ington's siege-batteries. Memorial tablets show the sites, of Fort Putnam, Gov. 
Dudley's house, the earliest church, etc. 

The city of Cambridge has 50,000 iidiabitants, with a valuation of 
over S50,000,000, and is in four sections. E. Cambiidge, a manufactur- 
ing district on Lechmere Point, towards Charleslown ; Cambridgeport, 
near the W.-Boston Bridge ; N. Cambridge, devoted to residences ; and 
Old Camliridge, the seat of the University. It is skirteil by several rail- 
roads, but 'the easiest way to reach Harvard Square is by horse-cars. 
Cambridge has 36 churches, 6 banks, 4 savings-banks, a jjublic library, 4 
posts of the G. A. R., 5 newspapers, and a lyceum. The factory-districts 
are remote from the University, and produce great quantities of glass and 
soap, chemicals, bricks, tinware, furniture, castings, etc. In the suburbs 
are great frint and vegetable gardens, muler high culture. 

A large, old-style house, back from the street, and nearly opposite Gore Hall, is 
called the " Bisliop'.s Palace." It was built in 1761-63 by East Apthorp, an 
Anglican Bostonian, educated at Old Cambrid-e, who was sent hei'C as a luissiou- 
ary, and liojied to be ajipointed l^ishoj) of New England. But the ho.stility of the 
Puritan divines and people was so marked, that he returned to i'ngland, and was 
given a stall in St. Paul's. In 1777, Bui-goyne occupied the house as headquarters 
of the cai)tive Anglo-llessian army. Near Brattle Ht is the liouse where 
Baron Iliedesel, coinmander of the division of Brunswickers. was quartered. The 
Baroness, with a di;iniond, cut her autograph here on a wimlow-pinie, which is 
still preserved. Near Brattle St., on the right, is a stately old colonial mansion. 




See page 20. 




THE PRINCIPAL PORTIONS OF THE CEMETERY. 



1. Entrance. 

2. Chapel. 

3. Spruce Avenue. 

4. Public Lot. 

5. Laurel Hill. 

6. Walnut Avenue. 

7. Mountain Avenue. 

8. Mount AuTiuni Tower. 

9. Dell Path. 

10. Pine Hill. 

11. Central Square. 

12. Cedar Hill. 

13. Harvard Hill. 



14. Juniper Hill. 

15. Temple Hill. 

16. Rosemary Path. 

17. Jasmine Path. 

18. Chestnut Avenue. 

19. Poplar Avenue. 

20. Auburn Lake. 

21. Lime Avenue. 

22. Larch Avenue. 

23. Halcyon Lake. 

24. Forest Pond. 

25. Central Avenue. 

26. Iload to Fresh Pond. 



ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. Route 2. 33 

above two terraces, surrounded by broad lawns and line elms. Built about the 
middle uf the last century, the house was deserted by its Loyalist owner at the 
outbrealc of 1775, and then occupied by Wai^hinyton as headquarters. Here, 
through the ;ong winter of the sie.ne, Lady Vv"ashin,i,4,oa often held receptions. 
This noble estate was the home of the poet Longfellow, who died in 1882. 

Henry Wadsworth Lonyfellow, born in Portland, 1S07 (Bowdoin College, 1825), 
spent four years (1826 -30) in Eurojje, and then was Profes'^or of Modern Languages 
at Harvard University (1835-5*). Besides several prose romances and many 
short poems of great p'jwcr, he has published "Evangeline" (1817,) "The Golden 
Legend" (1851), "Hiawatha " (18.J5), a translation of Da.nte's " DivinaCojumedia," 
3 vols. (1SG7-70), "The Divine Tragedy" (1871), and "Tales of a Wayside*Inn," 
tirst (18G3) and second series. Mr. Longfellow is perhaps the most i)opular of 
American poets, and is distinguished as a faitliful tran.slator, an original and pro- 
foundly perceptive iioet, and an admirer of the picturesque features in mediaeval 
European history. 

Mount Auburn. 
(Horse-cars every | hr. from Harvard S(iucire, — I OI. 5 M. from Boston.) 
A large tract of forest-covered and romantic hills on the banks of tlie 
Charles had long formed a favorite ramble for the students of Harvard, 
until, in 1S31, it was purchased by the liorticultural Society, and a portion 
of it consecrated for a cemetery, with imposing ceremonies. This was 
the pioneer of the large rural c nieterics of America, and is but a few years 
younger than Pere la Chaise, at Paris. Tlie whole tract of land was soon 
bought in from the Horticultural Society, and large additions have since 
been made, until now it covers 125 acres. The name " Sweet Auburn," 
which tlie Harvard men had bestowed upon it, ^vas changed to Mount 
Auburn. " This tract is beautifully undulating in its surface, containing 
a number of bold eminences, steep acclivities, and deep, shadowy valleys," 
and is laid out v.dth broad, curving avenues intersected by foot-paths. 
The emblematic iron fence which bounds the front is provided with a mas- 
sive granite entrance-gate of Egyptian architecture, 60 ft. long and 2-5 ft. 
high, on whose outside is carved, " Then shall the dust return to the earth 
as it was, and the spirit shall return to God who gave it." From the 
gate Central Ave. runs to Pine Hill, Avhich overhangs Consecration Dell. 
The chapel, not far from the gate, on a hill to the r., is a handsome 
Gothic edifice, abounding in pinnacles, and furnished with stained glass 
windows from Edinlnirgh. Inside the chapel are four noble * statues : 
Judge Story, by W. W. Story ; Jolin Winthrop, the first colonial gover- 
nor, by R. S. Greenourjh ; James Otis, the leader of the first aggressior^s 
against British misrule, by Crawford; and John A<lams, representing 
the revolutionary and subsequent constitutional era, by Randolph Rogers. 
On Central Ave. is a fine statue of Hosea Ballou, an eminent Univer- 
salist divine, of Boston, not far from the statue (in a sitting posture) of 
Dr. Bowditch, the mathematician and nautical writer. Fronting tlia 
chapel is a majestic * memorial work (by Milinure) representing a colos- 
sal lion coxichant with a calm and heroic female head. The design is 
taken from a work executed in the highest perfection of Egyptian art, 
2* C 



34 Route 2. ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 

and is a fine personification of the ancient idea of the mystic "one who 
outlooks stars and dreams o'er graves. " Hannah Adams, the historian of 
the Jews, was the first person buried in the cemetery, and her humble 
monument is still pointed out. Near the end of Central Ave. is the 
monument to John Murray, the founder of Universalism in America. 
Spurzheim is buried near the Bowditch monument. Near the Ballou 
statue on Central Ave. is the monument erected to W. F. Harnden, 
founder of the express-business, by the express-companies of the United 
States. Under a canopy of granite is a large stone safe with bas-reliefs, 
supported on bronze claws, alongside of which a marble watch-dog lies. 
On Mount Auburn, the highest point of the cemetery, stands a massive 
aiid graceful granite tower, from whose top an extensive * view is enjoyed. 
The rich valley of the Charles is in full sight, from the villa-covered heights 
of Watertown to the widenings which are lined by tlie palaces on the 
Back Bay at Boston. The rural roads of Brookline are in the S., and 
over and beyond them rise the higli hills of Milton. In the E. is Cam- 
bridge and the ancient walls of Harvard University, while a succession 
of bright villages stud the country to the N. and W. 

For the rest, the tranquil and shaded walks of the cemetery are lined 
with thousands of monuments, of every form and style, from simple tab- 
lets to costly and beaiitiful statues. Pretty lakelets diversify the surface 
of the dells, and platoons of obelisks rise along the hills. Tlie gateway, 
the chapel, sphinx, and tower, are the piincipal objects to be seen. 
Hours may be spent in pleasant rambling through the other avenues, 
passing the graves of scores of local celebrities and magnates of Massa- 
chusetts. If the visitor wishes to know how to do Mount Auburn minute- 
ly, Moses King's " Mount Auburn " should be bought. 

N. of Moimt Auburn about f M., is Fresh Pond, a pretty sheet of blue 
water, winding under the shadow of wooded hills, with villages on its 
banks. The Fresh Pond Hotel is favorably situated on its shore. 2 to 
3 M. N. is Spy Pond (pleasant hotel), the ice from whose clear and spark- 
ling waters is much used in Boston during the summer heats. S. W. 
of Mount Auburn, on the banks of the Charles, is the United States Arse- 
nal, covering 40 acres, where great amounts of munitions of war are stored. 
About 1 M. beyond, also on the river, is the village of Waterto^vn, 8 M. 
from Boston, on tlic Fitchburg Railroad. Early in the 17th century a 
nomadic church from this place founded Wethersfield, Conn. In 1643 
Massachusetts sent four Puritan missionaries to convert Anglican Vir- 
ginia. The Cavaliers drove them off, and KnoAvles, the Watertown pas- 
tor, went to England, and preached in Bristol Cathedral several years. 
John Sherman, pastor here 1647-85, bears on his tombstone, 

"In Sherman's lowlv grave are lain 
The heart of Paul,' and Euclid's brain." 



ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. Route 5. 35 

Harriet G. Hosmer, the foremost of female sculptors, was born at "Watertown 
in 1S30. After lung uiiatoiuical studies, she v/ent to Rome in 1852, and has since 
lived there. Most of her ^vorks are retained in Italy and England. Her most re- 
markable pieces are " Zenobia iu Chains," "The Sleeping Faun," "Puck," and 
"Beatrice Cenci." 

S. of Waterto'vvn is the citj'- of Newton, with several villages, in- 
habited mostly by men doing business in Boston. Brigliton {Cattle-Fair 
Hotel), K. of Newton, has the largest cattle-market in New England. The 
day of market is Wednesday, when Brighton presents a lively sight. The 
abattoirs cost over $1,000,000, and cover 50 acres. 

S. E. of Brighton is the town of Brookline, famous for the suburban 
residences of Boston merchants. Near the station of the Boston & Albany 
Railroad (brancli line) is the principal village, with the ornate and attrac- 
tive stone town-house, near which is a neat public-library building. Within 
this toAvn is Brookline Reservoir, with a capacity of 120,000,000 gallons of 
water. Here terminates the long and sinu^ous brick culvert, running from 
Lake Cochituate, in Natick, which is here suj^plemented by iron mains, 
which carry the water into Boston. 1 M. distant is the great Chest- 
nut Hill Eeservoir (5 M. from Boston City Hall), with a capacity of 
800,000,000 gallons. The most popular drive about Boston is that to 
and aroimd Chestnut Hill Reservoir. Jamaica Pond, near the village 
of Jamaica Plain, and E. of Brookline, gave the first water-supply to 
Boston. From 1795 to 1S40 it was carried through the city in hollow 
pine logs. In 1S51 this was stojiped, and now villas and immense ice- 
houses line the shores. In Jamaica Plain (where encamped the Rhode 
Island forces, the best ecpiipped and disciplined in the army, in 1775 -76), 
is a fine monument to the soldiers of West Roxbury who were killed in 
the War for the Union. § M. from this village is the large cemetery 
of Forest Hills. (Horse-cars to and from Boston, also Providence 
Raih-uad. ) It is entered by a large and elegant turreted Gothic gate- 
way of stone, bearing the inscriptions, " I am the Resurrection and the 
Life," and, " He that keepeth thee will not slumber." Near the gateway 
to the 1. is tlie finest receiving-tomb in New England, with a Gotliic 
portico of granite, of imposing size and form. On Mount Warren Gen. 
Joseph Warren is buricvd ; on Mount Dearborn, Gen. H. A. S. Dearborn. 
This cemetery is larger and plainer than Mount Auburn, and is mainly 
notable for its air of rustic naturalness. Consecration Hill commands a 
fine view of the hills of Milton and the fair Lake Hibiscus. In the S. 
part is a monument " Erected by the City of Roxbury in honor of her 
sohliers v.'ho died for their country in the Rebellion of 1861 to '65." A 
bronze soldier, of heroic size, stands at ease on a granite pedestal, and on the 
iinier granite tablets of the wall, about the lot, are the names of many sol- 
diers in k'tters of gold. 1 M. from Forest Hills, and a like distance 
from I\IatLapan, on tlie New York & New England Railroad, is the cemetery 



36 Route 3. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

of Mount Hope. This is in Dorchester, an ancient town \vhich was united 
with Boston in 1870. Over its extensive area (which is bounded on one 
side by the Bay) are scattered several villages and hundreds of country 
residences. The natural scenery is picturesque, and is diversified by hills 
and forests. At Meeting-House Hill is the old church, with a soldier's 
monument on the green before it. At Grove Hall (horse-cars from Temple 
I'lace), amid ample grounds^, are the buildings of the Consumptives' Home. 

Mount Bowdoin, commanding a tine view of the harbor and city, is ^ JM. 
beyond; and near Harvard St. station is Sunset Kock, around which, in 
1775, were cut the fascines with wliich Washington's army fortified Dor- 
chester Heights. At Blue-Hill Avv.'. is the E. entrance to the great West- 
Roxbunj Park. 

Eoxbury {Norfolk House, a large and comfortable old hotel, on Eliot 
Square). Horse-cars from Park-St. Church to Eliot Sq., &c. 

Eoxbury, an ancient city, almost coeval v.'ith Boston, was united with 
that city in 1868. In 1775 the Rhode Island forces built here that power- 
ful fort which Washington pronounced the best in the siegedines, and 
which seriously galled the Royalists in Boston. Upon the hill occupied 
by this fort is now tlic stand-pipe of the v/ater-Avorks, where the Cochi- 
tuate water is forced up through a boiler-iron tube to a height of 240 ft. 
above tide-marsh level, and hence supplies the higliest floors in the city. 
The tower is a lofty and very graceful structure, with a fuie view from the 
summit, which, however, is usually closed. Eliot Sq. is the central point 
in Roxbury, and here is the building of the first (Unitarian) church, the 
society to which Eliot preached in the Puritan era. For the rest, the 
hilly streets of Roxbury are made beautiful by the villas of the city 
merchants and by several pretty churches, of which the venerable St. 
James' Church, with its massive Saxon tower, is most attractive. 

Besides General Warren, who died on Bunker Hill, there were also bom at Rox- 
bury Mujor-General Heath, of the Continental Army, and Joseph Dudley, gov- 
ernor of "Massachusetts, 1702-15, while Thomas Dudley, long time governor, and 
niai(jr-general between 1G30 - 53, had his estates and mansion here. 

John Eliot, "the Apostle to the Indians," was pastor of the church in "Rocks- 
bury" from 1G32 to IGi'O. Firmly believing that the Indians were descended irom 
the ten lost tribes of Israel, he niade every effort for their conversion. Acquiring 
their language, he translated into it the Bible (1663), catechism, Baxter's Call, &c., 
and preached frequently to those villages of "praying Indians which he estab- 
lished and protected through the war of 1675-76. Utterly improvident in his 
charities, he would sometimes give away his whole salary on the day of its re- 
ceipt, and it was only by Mrs. Eliot's care and econ(nny that his four sons were 
educated at Harvard, and were ranlced afterwards ' with the best preachers of their 
gpucration.' " When the old hero had become helpless, the church continued his 
salai'y several years, until his death. 



QUINCY. Routes. 37 

3. Boston to Newport and New York. 

in^-io*^^® ^^^ Colony Railroad and Fall River Line steamboats from Fall River in 
10 - 12 hrs. The station in Boston is at the corner of Kneeland and South Sts. ' 

The train soon crosses the Fort-Point Channel, and runs through S.Bos- 
ton and the pretty villages of the Dorchester District (see Route 2). After 
crossing the Neponset River, Atlantic station is reached; whence the Gran- 
ite Branch diverges to the S. W. to E. Miltonand W. Quincv iU M ) in 
the Blue Hills. 

Tliis branch was the first railroad in America (built in 1R2(5\ and over it hor'^es 
drew gi-anite-laden cars from the quarries to the river. The Blue Hills cover' 20 
square miles, and are older than tlie Alps or Pyrenees. Charles of En-land named 
theni the Cheviot Jlills. In l.V hrs. one can go from Boston Common to the top of 
^oe i"T."^','^'' ^''"^^ ^'"'' "'" (f'-vilway to Readville; hi-hway, 1= M. ; path -■ M ) 
f^oo ft high, and VK-wiug 125 town and villages, Boston, Cambridge, Dorchester 
Nahant Cape Ann, Boston Harbor, the ocean, Ilingham, Scituate, Marshfield the 
Plymouth hills, Duxbury, Bridgewater, Fall River, \roonsocket Hill (R I ) Prince- 
ton, Wachusett, Mt. Watatic, Gran.l IMonadnock, Temi>le Mt. (N II ) etc 

Squanfum (2 M. N. E. of Atlantic) is a bold bluff overlooking the harbor and 
crowned by several boarding-houses and villas. At Mooyi Is/muf the great Boston 
sewer (finished in 1884) empties into the harbor, ^quantum was the home of 
(^ickatabut, Pncbem of Massachusetts, and was named for Squantum, the firm 
friend of the Pilgrims, who, when dying, besought Gov. Bradford to pray for him 
that he might go to the Englishmen's God in heaven." 

Wollaston Heights (WoUaston Hotel) is a beautiful new village 
(founded in 1870) built on the lofty slope.s of one of the easterly Blue 
Hills, commanding broad water- views, f M. N. E. is the venerable 
Quincy homestead, near which is the National Sailors' Home, fronthig on 
the bay. Quincy is the chief station in a large and pictures(iue agri^cul- 
tural town, much of whose land is in the estates of the illustrious Adams 
and Quincy families. It has 12,C00 inhabitants, 7 churches, a paper, 70 
farms, and 700 acres of salt marsh. Opposite the granite town-hall is the 
Adavis Tem.ple, an antique church near which the"two Presidents Adams 
are burie.l. A handsome granite shaft in the Wollaston cemetery com- 
memorates 11.3 soldiers of Quincy who died in the war for the Union. 
The Adams Academy is in this village, and has a neat stone building. 
John Adams born in Quincy, 1735, was a firm opponent of the Stamp Act de- 
fender otCaptam Preston and his soldiers in tlii so-called " Bo.ston Matsaci?' 
tial and Congre.ssman 1774-77. In 1776, as leader of the cn^nnnittee on the 
Declaration of Independence, he fought the Declaration tlirough CV a 'ress in a 
three days debate. In 177S, 1770, and 1782, he visited Paris on as Sal mis^ 
S!on and in 1782 was chosen ambassador to Holland. In 17S.5-88 he S minister 
bv h'^^'p '?• }^% ^'f }K- ^'-'^ Vice-President, and in 179G was electe^l l™s lent 
^^lir^^^n "S^na?^?^.^^'?'"!^ "f Republican candidate, and succeedfng 
\^ asluni,t.on. tuna 1801 to 182b he lived on his estate in Quincy and died oS 

of IndeSnce""'""' ~''''''' '''"' *^^ ''''' anniversar? of th'e Declaration 
_ John Quincy Adams, son of John Adams, bom Quincy 17G7 He remained 
m Europe most of the time between 1778 and 1785, then graduate I Tt^^^^^^ 

U^'^'vf^ '''t""'f r^''' ^'^'^ 1*"^'^^^^^*- He was successively Sster to Hoi" 
and, England, and Prussia, 1794 - 1801. A United States senatcfr 1803 - 8 • in 1809 
he became minister to Russia, and later was appointed minister to Emdand' Seere 
tary of State, 1817-25, in the latteryear he was elected PresiSntof the uTi ted Itates 



38 Roidc 3. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

(the 6th). From 1831 to 184S he was in Congress, and died suddenly in th.e 
Capitol (1848), his last words being. " This is the last of earth ; 1 am content." 
Under his uiliuenee (as iSecretary of State or President) great national works were 
carried on ; Florida was added to the Union ; and the ttouth American republics 
were recognized. An opponent of tlie exteiision of slavery, and a powerful advo- 
cate of the right of petition, his powers continued untd tiie la^t, and won for him 
the title of "the Old Man Elocpient." 

Charles Francis Adams, his son, was hom in Boston in 1S07, and long lived in 
Europe. He was one of the founders of the present Republican party, was some- 
time a Congressman, and in ISGl received the hereditary office of minister to 
England. He held this x'osition until 1S(>8, — an arduous duty, since, during this 
time, the (unofficial but efficient) English syni]>atliy with tlie Rebel States re- 
quired sleepless vigilance on his part. In ISl'l he was one of the connnissioners 
to Geneva (for the settlement of the "Alabama" trouble), and conducted his part 
of the work with great skill. 

John Hancock, bom at Quincy 1737, became a wealthy Boston merchant, and 
early opposed the aggressions of Parliament, so that lie and Samuel Adams alone 
were excepted from the general pardon which General Gage ofl'ered to the 
Americans. Sometime President of the Provincial Congress, in 1775 he was 
President of the Continental Congress, and v/as the hrst to sign tlie Declaration 
of Iiidei>endence. Later he became an officer in the militia, and was governor of 
Ma.ssachusetts 1780-8.5, and 1787-93. 

This distri'-t was first settled by Weston's company (1622), and WoUaston's 
(1625), at a place called Merry Mount, where their conduct was so opposed to 
the ])rinciples of the Pilgrims that Miles Standish marched Irom Plymouth against 
these jovial Episcopalians, and sent tlieir chiefs captive to England. I a 1630 
the Plymoutli foi'ces made another damaging attack on Merry Mount. Thomas 
Morton, of tliis colony, who was twice banished to England, and once imin-isoncd 
for one year by the Plpnouth government, wrote the "New English Canaan," in 
which he gives the following account of the aborigines: "The Indians maybe 
ratlier accompted as living richly, wanting notliing that is needful ; and to be 
commended for leading a contented life, the younger being ruled by the elder, and 
the ekler ruled by the Powahs, and the Powahs are ruled by the Uevill, and then 
you may imagine what good. rule is like to be amongst them." This curiously 
agrees with Cotton Mather's theory that "the Indians are under the special pro- 
tection of the Devill." 

At Braintree, in an ancient farming-town of 4,000 inhabitants, with 
granite-quarries and shoe-factories, and the stately Thayer Academy, a 
raihvav' diverges to Cohasset and Marshfield; and at S. Braintree a rail- 
way diverges to Abington and I'lymouth. Stations Kandolph (Howard 
Mouse) and Stoughton, in prosperous shoe-making towns, among the hills. 
At N. Easton is the great Ames shovel-factory (see page 53 b). Easton 
station is 2 M. N. E, of Easton. Kaynham is a lowland f-irming-town, 
famous in the Indian wars. 

Taunton (Cttfj Hotel, $3 a day, on City Square) was founded by Mi.ss 
Elizabeth Pool, a pious Puritan lady, of Taunton, in Somersetshire. The 
settlement was on the territory of Cohannet, and King Philip was friendly 
to the Tauntonians until midsummer of 1076, when ho attacked the place, 
and was driven off and followed sharply until he was killed. In 1810 
there were but 50 houses here ; but the water-power of the river soon induced 
the location of factories, until it became a large manufacturing city, with 
20,000 inhabitants. The Mason Machine Works and Taunton Locomotive 
Works employ 800 men. The Tack Companies make 700 varieties, from a 
heavy boat-nail down to microscopic tacks weighing 4,000 to the ounce. In 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3. 39 

1871, 18,000,000 bricks were made here. The Taunton Copper Co. covers 
15 acres with their buildings, and works up 3,000,000 or 4,000,000 pounds 
of copper yearly. There are also 11 foundries, and manufactories of 
screws, stove-linings, and copper, large cotton-mills, and a famous manu- 
factory of Britannia ware. With all this, the city is clean and or- 
derly, and clusters around the central square called Taunton Green. 
There are 19 churches, of which St. Mary's (Catholic) on Broadway, St. 
Thomas (Episcopal), and the First Unitarian, on Church Green, are 
fine stone structures. The latter is a large, rambling, Saxon-towered 
church, which looks like some secluded parish-church of Merrie England 
which was built before the Conquest. The City Hall fronts on Church 
Green, and the Public Library is next to the rude stone church (Congrega- 
tional) on Broadway. The extensive buildings of the State Lunatic Asy- 
lum are near Taunton Green, surrounded by pleasant grounds. 

Stations, Weir Junction, Weir, N. Dightmi, DigMon. Near the latter 
place, on the opposite shore, is the famous Dighton Rock, — a long 
mass of granite with rude sculptures and inscriptions iipon it (copied and 
published in the Antiqicitaies Americance, Copenhagen), which some schol- 
ars refer to the Norsemen in the 11th century, while President Stiles 
speaks of "the Phoenicians, who charged the Dighton Rock, and other 
rocks in Narragansett Bay, with Punic inscriptions which remain to this 
day." It is said that near this place a skeleton was found (in 1S34) with 
a brazen belt and breastplate, which is probably the same v.diich inspired 
Longfellow's fine poem, "The Skeleton in Armor." Station Somerset, then 

Fall Kiver {Narrayansett Hottl, % 2.50-3 a day ; Wilbur House), an ener- 
getic and growing city, which enjoys a rare combination of great water- 
power on the margin of navigable waters. The river rises in the Watuppa 
Ponds on the highlands 2 M. E. of the city, and falls 136 ft. in less 
than half a mile. Along this incline immense factories are drawn up like 
platoons in a marching regiment, built across the stream and resting on 
the granitic banks on either side. Over ^ 30,000,000 are invested in these 
works, and 15,000 persons are employed in them. The great article of 
manufacture is cotton cloth, and more spindles are here engaged upon 
that work than in any other city in America. Most of the mills are now 
run by steam-power. Large quarries of granite are worked in the vicin- 
ity of the city, and many of its edifices, including some of the factories, 
tv/o or three churches, and the City Hall, are built of that materiaL 
The city is compactly built, and fronts on Mount Hope Bay, across which 
Mount Hope looms into view. On South and North Main Sts. are the 
principal churches, the City Hall, Post Office, and hotels, and from the 
City Hall a group of parallel factories stretches westward and downward 
to the Bay. Fall River was formerly divided by the Rhode Island line. 



40 Routes. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

but a change of boundary secured to Massachusetts, Fall River, "The 
Border City." Its population is above 50,000. 

The U. S. Custom House and Post-Ollice is an imposing Gothic build- 
ing ; and the Episcopal and Congregational churches are notable. There 
is a pleasant park of 70 acres. 12,000 French Canadians dwell here. 

iJaihi stages from Fall River to Westport, 8^ M. ; Westport Point, 16i ; New 
Bedford, 16; Dartmouth, IG ; Tiverton, 6A ; Little Couipton, 17 ; Portsmoutn, 10>> ; 
Newport, 15| ; Swansea, 4; Seekonk, I4i ; Providence, 17. 0. C. Railroad to New 
Bedford and Providence. 

Two divisions of the Old Co^loiiy R. R. unite here, run tlirough Tiver- 
ton, cross to Rhode Island, and run to Newport, 19 M. 

The palatial steamers, leaving Fall River in the early evening, stop at 

Newport, 

Hotels. — *Ocean House, Bellevue Ave., 400 guests, $4 a day; Aquidneck 
House, Pelham St , 150 gue.sts, S 4 a day ; Perry House, VV'ashingtou Sq., and U. S. 
Hotel, Thames St., lOU guests each, !ip2.50 a day; Cliff- Aveuue Hotel, 60 guests, 
^ 4 a day ; Cliff House, lOO guest.-;, $ 3 a day ; Boarding-houses of Joseph Bateman, 
J. B. Brayton (12 Pelham St.), A. A. Wilbur (44 Church), Mary A. Anthony (42 
Church), C. T. Hazard (4 Catherine St.), W'm. Riggs(S Catherine), Mrs. W'm. Hodges, 
Mrs. K. Paine (.36 Touro St.). 

Keadiiig-rooins. — At the Redwood Library; the Free Library, on Thames 
Street. *The Ca.siiio, on Bellevue Ave., is a handsome old-English building, 
200 ft. long, with rcadiug-rooms, etc , a theatre, racquet-court, tenuis lawn, balcouy 
for band-concerts, etc. Roller skating-rink, on Bellevue Ave. 

Churches. — Baptist, on Spring, Farewell, and Clark Streets; Catholic, St. 
Mary's, Spring St. ; Congregationalist, Spring St ; Methodist Episcopal, Marlboro 
St., Thames St.; Episcopal, Trinity, Church St.; Zion, Emmanuel, All .Saints 
(Dr- Potter), Beach St. The Channing Church is of rich rose-granite, with stained 
"windows by Lafarge. The Congregational Church, successor to that of Hopkins 
and Stiles, was richly frescoed by Lafarge in Oriental designs. 

Bathing, on First Beach. During the hours when the white flag floats bath- 
ing in costume is obligatory. While the red flag is displayed (1 - 3 p. M. ), the beach 
is re.served for gentlemen. 

Stajfes run to First Beach and other points at regular hours. 

Steamhoats run to Rocky Point and Providence four times daily (in summer), 
excursion tickets, 75c. : to Wickford (connecting with Shore Line R. R. for New 
York), 3 times daily ; to Narragansett Pier, 3 times daily. The magnificent steam- 
ers of the Fall-River Line to New York touch at Newport every evening on their 
way to New York. Daily to Block Island. 

Kallroads. — The Old Colony, to Boston, 67 miles, fare, $2. Via Wickford 
(by stcaiii-ferry) and iShore Line to New York, 180 miles. 

The harbor of Newport was first Aisited (during the historic epoch) by Verraz- 
zani, a noble Florentine, who was sent with the frigate Dauphin, by King Francis 
I. of France, to explore the American coast. He remained two -weeks here, re- 
fitting his ship, resting his men, and preparing reports for his royal master. The 
Dutch and English explorers visited the place occasionally, until in 1639 the settle- 
ment was made by exiled dissenters from the State church of Puritan land. These 
embraced Baptists, Antinomians, and many Quakers, and Rhode Island had such 
a consequent air of heterodoxy and irregularity about it that it was excluded from 
the league of the United Colonies, although it had received a royal charter in 
1665. So late as the beginning of the jireseut century, President Dwight attrib- 
uted the laxity of morals in Stonington to " its nearness to Rhode Island." So 
the little colonj' drew in its outlying settlements, fortified Providence, and main- 
tained armed vessels cruising about Rhode Island throughout King Philip's War, 
so that no hostile Indian lauded on the shores of the " Isle of Peace." 

Anawan, the chief captain of King Philip, and 60 of his bravest warriors, sur- 
rendered to Captain Clnn-ch after the death of Philip, being ]iromised amnesty. 
The broken-liearted chief delivered up his sovereign's rude regalia, and all accom- 
panied Church to Newport, where, shortly after, in Chui'ch's absence, he was per- 




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BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 8. 41 

fidiously beheacled. The cliief Tispaquin and his men also surrendered to rimr.l, 
under solenni ])ledges of pardon and amnesty, but the muidei o this ,.S-^^^^^^^^^ 
leader was reserved for tlie people of Plvniouth patriotic 

a f.hiln^nTif.-^^f''" f'''''^''\*'y g^^*^ a 'liyl' literary tone to the colony, and oi-anized 

?-r ] i -^^f rf^ and seientUic disc-ussions. The harbor of Newport was 

n V- xl Vl?'^- ^^r l^'^f •■'^"■^'^^ of 1730 reported 4,G40 iiilial>itants in the town 

^^^^^S'^^r^'"'^;' only to lioston in the extent of its conune^; 

Wn^' ^'"^^^^^^^^f,^^^^ caused the British to b rn\if fd^SS bif f the 
town feuUivan and Green advanced down tlie island in lu- " 177^ b fVp,! 

T«ionri^ ,^*• r /'^ ivniynt ot fet. John of Jerusalem, Governor of Hip 

the Count rlpp'.^'h T^ Bourbon," &e., appeared in the harbor br 4" 
tue count de Roehambeau and 6,000 French soldiers rthp rp.rin,/. ,f ' V/^ ^ 

Sol^i^f "f' ^'''''' t^'r^' ^^ Sab^^ige t;S 2eux-^n?"'feuS" 
geT comm-itdiL 4™""^ Ins ohicers; were Aubert Dubayet, who aftei-wa^s was 
■ C(Lt dSte^^^^ La Vendee, and inl 790 was Minister of Wa- 

v.ount clAutieliam]!, afterwards an ejnigre who served in all C.ni.lp'i 1.^,1' 

Esh-VlfT"-"* ^'^^^''^^^''^i^. afterwards President otie deh 1 e ml ly'a d 
o t^h- fm "hi,''^/'''^;""°^^'.^'^^ ^'^ ^^'^'- His sou Eugene betame Viceroy 
terwm ; £-1 • 5^1 /'p"'"^' '^"^^l^h'S*'.' ^'^^"'« impress of France ; Berthic' at^ 
Louis YVlJlnP ^7''^'''*' ''"'^ ^""^6 of Neuichatel and Wagra n created bV 

g.n;ernor of Toulorcommander'o^tl Art/o ' L? Norlf'and'oi'' tt^T™^^ 
Rhine, and guillotined in 1793 -^^'^^y ui uie rnortn, and ot the Lower 

.ml" Ssto S't",;!?,,!'" L''"?^' "■" ''■;'!"'''■' '■?"""= "«' '" »" Chesapeake, 

court of justice ■ ra-s stufi•e.fit^^,^ wh/i" ^ the public square in front of the 
lean, unquiet .d/ilS^n-itt]^^^ Ho J' ^7^ ^'''^^"^^-^ ^o™«=^ ^^"d 

made strenuous ettbrts to have RhSp llin 1 ^'''?^f ':'"'i^^*^ f^'«"^'^^ government 
President A(lanis n Se a rivil Sfnn T^f^ ^* "'® ^^^niain of France. 

Sanniel Hopkins tlfoundi of the h/i-'"- f^^'tihed with six batteries. Dr. 
Theology")! and'l.eio S Mr? StoS 's no?eV' " The^MhiL'er"' w'^°-^ ^''.'^^*"V ^^' 

Slowly until thi war o^l^^I^^^J^iZ, l^S Set:;^!^^^!^.^:? 



42 Route 3. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

Newport has been slow and uneven. But tliis unprngressivc and tranquil spirit 
constitutes one of the charms of Newport, and makes ol this quiet little marine 
city the Osteud, the Nice of America. 

William EUery Clianuing was born at Newport in 1780 (died 1S42). "The in- 
fluences of the climate and scenery of the i.sland where his boyhood was passed, 
had no slight inttuence ujion the social and moral attributes of liis mind." He 
won the highest honors at Harvard University, and afterwards was pastor of a 
Unitarian Church in Boston lor 37 years. He was an abolitionist, an anti- 
annexatiouist, and an advocate of peace, and his principles were sustained 
with fearless independence, iilain-spoken lidehty, and a soienm arid impressive 
manner. As the leader of the liberal party in the Unitarian controversy, his 
power was derived as nmch from the symmetrical beauty of his lite as from tlie 
remarkable strength of his writings. " He has the love of wisdom, and the wis- 
dom of love." — CoLEKiDGE, of Ohauuing. 

Newport, "the Queen of American watering-place.s," and a semi-capi- 
tal of the State of Rhode Island, is on the S. W. shore of the island 
from which the State is nanieti, and fronts, across its harbor, on Narra- 
gansett Bay. Its older portion, lying near the wharves, has many narrow 
streets, bordered with the houses of tlie year-round residents, many of 
which are mansions of the old time. New Newport almost surrounds 
the old town, and stretches away to the S. with a great number of 
handsome villas and cottages. The bathing and boating at Newport are 
fine, the drives over the " Isle of Peace " are varied and pleasant, but the 
chief charm of the place is its balmy and equable climate, due, according 
to most opinions, to a divergence in this direction of the waters of the 
Gulf Stream. Dean Berkeley likened the atmosphere of Newport to that 
of Italy, wliile another writer speaks of tlie damp sea-air and equable 
climate as resembling those of England. Fogs are of frequent occurrence, 
but of short duration. There are many summer visitors from the South 
and the West Indies, while the array of literary talent which gathers here 
yearly is quite attractive. Several of the ambassadors from Europe, with 
the nobles connected with the emliassies, spend their summers here. The 
feature of private cottages is largely developed here, and hotel life is quite 
subordinate to it. Wealthy New York and Boston merchants move into 
tlieir palatial villas early in the summer, and have their horses and car- 
riages sent on, so that by Aug. 1 the broad, firm avenues, and the hard 
and level beaches are fdled with cheerfid life. 

The central point in Old Ne\vport is Washington Square, with its mall 
and fountain. The State House fronts on this Square,— a plain but solid 
old building erected in 1742, which served as a hospital from 1776 to 1781. 
From its steps the Declaration of Independence was read, July 20, 1776, 
and in its Senate Chamber is a line portrait of George Washington, by 
Stuart. The City Hall, the Perry Hotel, and the mansion taken by 
Com. Perry after his victory at Lake Erie, all front on this Square. Gen. 
Washington passed through this Square on his way to Rocharabeau's 
headquarters in his first visit to Newport. In the evening the town 
was illuminated, and Washington, Rochambeau, and the French nobles 



EOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3. 43 

paraded through the streets. Trinity Church (on Church S-t.) was 
l)uilt in the early part of the hist century, and was often preached in by 
Dean Berkeley (1729 to 1731). He presented an organ (still in use) to 
this churcli, and left a dearer token, one of liis children, in the old church- 
yard. On Farewell St. is an ancient cemetery, where ai'e buried many 
of the earliest colonists and their governors. The Jewish cemetery on 
Touro St. is a beautiful garden-spot kept in perfect order. Near it is 
the Synagogue, the first in the Union (built in 17G2), and not now used, 
though kept in order by permanent endowments. Tlie * Redwood 
Library is south of the cemetery, in a handsome Doric building, dating 
from 1750. An elegant though small library is kept here, and some good 
paintings, together with some fine pieces of statuary. The King of Eng- 
land gave 84 volumes to this lil)rary, and Dean Berkeley gave also a largo 
number ; but when the evacuating British army carried even the church- 
bells with them, they spared not the Redwood Library. Touro Park is a 
favorite resort, and was the gift of Judah Touro, born at Newport in 177.5, 
the son of Isaac Touro, the pasfor of the Jewisli Synagogue. From 1802 
to 1854 he lived in New Orleans, where he amassed a large fortune which 
he left to various charities, mostly those of the Christian Church, though 
he himself was a Jew. "He gave $10,000 towards the Bunker Hill 
Monument." On this Park, surrounded by an iron fence, stands the 
* Sound Tower, otherwise called the Old Stone Mill, an ivy-clad, circrJar 
stone tower supported on round arches. More battles of the antiqua- 
rians liave been fought over this ancient tower than could well be num- 
bered, the radical theories of its origin being, on the one side, that it was 
built by the Norsemen in the 11th century, an<l on the other tliat a 
colonial governor (over perhaps 500 people), built it for a vdndmill in the 
17th century. Verrazzani spent 15 days in the harbor and exploring the 
land (1524), but makes no mention of this tower ; while, on the other hand, 
it is certain that the early colonists never built in such architecture or 
materials as are here seen. The only thing in favor of the mill theory is 
the fact that Gov. Benedict Arnold (died in 1678) bequeathes it in his 
will as "my stone-built windmill." The opening scenes of Cooper's 
"Spy" are laid in this vicinity; and Longfellow's poem, "The Skeleton 
in Armor," has told its story. But " its history has already, in Young 
America, passed into the region of myth." Near the round tower stands 
the statue of Commodore M. C. Perrj^, who opened Japan to the world 
(1854). 

The Vernon House (corner Mary and Clarke Sts. ) was Rochambeau's 
headquarters in 1780. Also on Clarke St. is the Central Baptist Church, 
built in 1733, and next to it is the annory of the Newjiort Artillery Com- 
pany, an elite corps, formed in 1741, The first Methodist steeple in the 
world is on the church on Marlboro St. The Penrose House, on Church 



44 Route 3. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

St., a famous old colonial mansion, where Gen. Washington was once 
a guest, is now a tenement house, and the Channing Mansion (built 1720) 
is near Thames St. The First Baptist Church, on Spring St., dates from 
1638. In the office of the Mercury^ a weekly pai^er started in 1758, is 
Ben. Franklin's printing-press, imported m 1720. The News is a bright 
daily newspaper. 

12 M. N. E. of Newport is the Stone Bridge which unites Rhode 
Island with the mainland at Tiverton. About 7 M. out is the Glen, a 
romantic spot, tree-shaded and quiet, where an old mill stands near a 
small pond. This is a favorite drive for the Newport visitors, forming an 
easy afternoon's ride. A small hotel is situated 1-2 M. fi'om the Glen, 
and a church in the vicinity was frequently preached in by Dr. Channing, 
''the Apostle of Unitarianism." 

6-7 M. from Newport, on a road running to the W. of the Stone 
Bridge highway, is Lawton's Valley, a beautiful rural resort, rich in 
verdure and in trees which are kept green Ity a bright stream flowing 
seaward. The Pond and Old Mill are the" principal objects in the scenery. 
Over the valley is Butt's Hill, where Sir Robert Pigott attacked the Amer- 
icans under Sullivan and Green on their retreat from the siege. Pigott 
impulsively attacked the halting array, and was beaten back by them 
until nightfall, when the Americans continued their retreat to the main- 
land, saving botli their artillery and their stores. The British loss was 
260, wliile the New England militia lost 206 men. 3^ M. from New- 
port, on this road, is the pretty little church of the Holy Cross, 
and near it is the farmhouse used by the British Gen, Prescott as 
headquarters. On the night of July 10, 1777, Lieut. -Col. Barton and 
a small party crossed Narraganset Bay in a boat, and took Prescott 
from his bed, carrying him into captivity. He was exchanged for 
Gen. Lee. 

The grand drive is on * Bellevue Ave., a clean, broad road, lined 
with villas, and running two miles to the S. Here, at the fashionable 
hour, passes a procession of elegant eijuipages only equalled in Central 
Park, Hyde Park, or the Bois de Boulogne. Many of the homes along 
this avenue are of palatial splendor, and they form a handsome panorama 
of architecture. Bailey's Beach is at the end of Bellevue Ave. ; and 
among the rocky clilTs on the sliore near by is the Spouting Cave, a deep 
cavern running back from the sea, into which great waves crowd after a 
storm from the S. E. Unable to go farther, they break with a heavy 
boom, and dash upward through an opening in the roof, sometimes to a 
height of 40-50 ft. From the cliffs in the vicinity (near the Boat- 
House Landing) a noble sea-view is gained, stretching as far as Block 
Island, 30 miles S. W. The picturesque Gooseberry Island is nearer, 
in the foreground. "A finer sea-view — lit up, as it is, moreover, 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3. 45 

by the ever tnily fairy-like spectacle of ships gliding luider sail over 
the waters — the eye can rarely witness." Narragansett Ave. runs at 
right angles with Belleviie Ave., and terminates on the E. at the Forty 
Steps (leading down the rocks). It is lined with fine houses. 

The * Eirst Beach (about -^- M. from the Ocean House) is a strip of 
white sand, hard and smooth, extending for 1 M, m length and lined 
with bath-liouses. The slope of the shore is very gradual, and the surf 
is light rather than heavy, so that this is one of the safest beaches 
on the coast. It is a lively and brilliant scene here during the hours 
of the wliite flag in warm days, and the beach is fringed with carriages. 
The Cliff Cottages are in this vicinity. 1 M. E. is the Second, or 
Sachuest Beach, whose "hard black beach is the most perfect race- 
course, and tlie heaving of the sea sympathizes with the rider, and in- 
spires him. " The hours of low tide are the favorite times to I'ide here. 
* Purgatory is at the W. end of Sachuest Beach. It is a wonderful 
chasm, IGO ft. long, 40-50 ft. deep, and 8-14 ft. wide at the top, torn 
out by upheaval or eaten by the waves, m the graywacke rock. Several 
feet of water remain in the chasm at low tide, and in stormy high tides 
heavy masses of water boom tlirougli it. The familiar story of the 
Lover's Leap of course attaches to tliis place, but is antedated by the 
legend that the Devil once threw into it a sinful Indian squaw, and his 
hoof-marks can be seen by all unbelievers. Other stories, of later date, 
attach to the Purgatory, but the origin of its name does not transpire. 
Paradise is a verdant valley adorned witli cottages, opening off Sachuest 
Beach, and near it is a mass of rocks and upheaved boulders called Para- 
dise Lost. The Third Beach is a long, quiet, and sequestered line of sand, 
above which are the Hanging Eocks, where, in a sheltered natural alcove. 
Dean Berkeley loved to sit, and look out over the wide sea, and write down 
his meditations. 

Here he composed " Alciphron ; or the Minute Philosopher," a series of Platonic 
dialogues defending the Christian system. Here probably he wrote the noble 
lyric ending with tlie prophecy : — 

" Westward the course of empire takes its way, 
The four iirst acts already past, 
A fifth shall end the dramawith the day. 
Time's noblest offspring is the last." 

George Berkeley, Dean of Derry, a famous philosopher and idealist, conceived 
a plan for converting tlie American Indians by a university, and came to New- 
port, under royal charter, in 1729. He built the mansion "Whitehall" (now 
a farmhouse), 3 M. from the town, but soon found that hi> scheme was im- 
practicable, and returned to England in 1731, giving his Newport estate and a Hne 
library to Yale and Harvard Colleges. From 1733 until his death (in 1753) he was 
Bishop of Cloyne. 

Washington x\llston was fond of roaming on these beaches, and Dr. Channing 
once remarked (of First Beach), " No spot on earth has helped to form me so 
much as that beach." 

Sachuest Point is on the S. E. of the island, and is much visited by 
fishermen. 



43 Route 3. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

To Miantonomi Hill, l.^ M. from the city, with its old British earth- 
works and noble view of Newport and its environs, is a pleasant ex- 
cursion for a clear day. ILmei/mcm's Hill, near Miantonomi, is another 
far- viewing point. The old MalLone Estate (see "Malhone; a Romance 
of Oldport," by T. W. Higginson) was at the foot of Miantonomi Hill. 

The Pirates' Cave and Batemau's Point are often visited, being about 
4^ M. from the city, and a favorite drive is around the Neck, past 
Fort Adams, and along Ocean and Bellevue Aves. to the city again, the 
distance being little more than 10 M. 

Fort Adams, distant 3j-4 M. from the city (by Thames St. and Wel- 
lington Ave.). Tills is the strongest (save two. Fortress Monroe and 
Fort Richmond) of the coast defences of the U. S., and mounts 468 can- 
non, requiring a garrison of 3,000 men. Its systems of covered ways, 
casemates, and other protective works, is complete. The "fort days," 
(twice weekly), when the garrison band plays its best music, attract 
great numbers of visitors, and many carriages pass the imposing granite 
walls. The fort is armed partly with Rodman guns. 

This fortress is on Brenton's Point, named for the noble family of that name. 
WiUiam Brenton was governor oftlie colony l(JGG-()9 ; his son, Jalilcd, was a cus- 
toms officer under William III. ; his grandson, Jahleel, resided ontlie great family 
estates in the island ; his great-grandson, Jahleel, refused very tempting otters 
from the Americans, left hi^ estates, which were afterwards confiscated, and c(jm- 
niandud the British frigate, the "Queen"; his great-great-grandson, Jahleel, an 
English knight and rear-admiral of the Blue, died at Loudon in IS-i-i. 

Conanicut Island is opposite Newport, and is visited by several steam- 
boats daily. It lias a pleasant village of summer cottages, with broad 
avenues, and the * Conanicut Part House, a popular summer-resort. 

Goat Island, opposite the city-wharves, is the headquarters of tlie 
torpedo division of the U. S. Naval Service. Here is the school in which 
the young officers of the navy are instructed in the tori)edo service. Lime 
Rock is beyond Goat Island, and is famed for being the home of Ida 
Lewis, tho American Grace Darling, who has saved many lives in this 
harbor. Rose Island is farther out in the Bay, and has the remains of an 
old fort upon it. Fort Greene was built in 1798, near the Blue Rocks and 
the line of Washington St. On Coaster's Harbor Island is the U. S. Naval 
Station, on land left by Wm. C(jddington, the founder of li. 1., and for 
nine years its governor. 

Rhode Island was bought from tho Indians in 1638. Its name was Aquid- 
neck, ''floating ou the Water." The discoverers named it Claudia, and a later 
ex[il(n'iug expedition from Holland, coming upon it in tlieautuuni, when its forests 
were in bright colors, called it Rood Eyl uuU, the lied Island. Roger AVilliams 
tried to fasten the name "Patmos" upon it, but Rhode Island in'evailed, derived, 
according to some, from its similarity to the Isle of Rhodes, a Moslem fortress iu 
the E. Mediterranean. In that early day Neale called it "the garden of New 
England," and even now the Rhode Island farms are the most valuable in the six 
States. Off its sliores are caught 112 kinds of fish, ranging from whales to 
smelts. The island is 1;") M. long by 3-4 M. wide, and is "pleasantly laid 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3. 47 

out in hills and vales and rising gronnds, with plenty of excellent springs 
and fine rivulets, and many delightful landscapes of rock, and promontories, and 
atUac.ent lands." 

M-iluoue, the celebrated portrait-painter, was born at Newport in 1777, and Capt. 
Dec.itur, of tlie navy, was born here in 1751, whose son was iStephen Decatur, 
"the Bayard of the seas." 

After leavi]ig Fall Iliver, and touching at Newport, the steamer moves 
on steadily through the night, passing Point Judith, Block Island, and 
Fisher's Island, after which she enters the tranquil waters of Long Island 
Sound. At a very early hour the narrowing W. end of the Sound is 
entered, and the shores of Westchester County are passed on the N. 
Throgg's Point, on the r., bears Fort Schuyler (318 guns), out on the 
Sound, which is mated by a strong fortress on Willet's Point (opposite). 
After passing several villages, Flushing Bay opens to the 1., with the 
beautiful village of Flushing at its head. Richly cultivated islands anil 
shores follow, up to Randall's Island, with the House of Refuge, and 
Ward's Island, with the Emigrant-Refuge and Hospital, and the Potter's 
Field, where 3,000 of the poor of New York are buried yearly. The 
steamer now enters Hell Gate, a wild and turbulent succession of strong 
currents and whirlpools, caused by the action of immense bodies ol' water, 
in the changes of the tide, being poured througli this narrow and sinuous 
strait, which abounds in rocky islets and sunken ledges. Tlie passage of 
this point was formerly difficult and dangerous, and two or three British 
frigates were wrecked here during our wars. But immense ledges have 
been removed by submarme blasting, and now but little danger remains. 
Astoria and Ravenswood are beautiful villages soon passed on the Long- 
Island shore, after which Blackwell's Island comes into view, with its 
long lines of charitable and correctional establishments. The N. point 
of this island is occupied by a neat little model of a fort, with a formid- 
able array of wooden cannon, called Fort Maxey or the Crazy-Man's Fort. 
It was built by an Irish lunatic named Maxey, who has liv^ed many years 
here, and claims a great sum from the government for his defense of New 
York. The octagonal building, with two long wings, is the Lunatic 
Asylum. One wing is reserved for each sex, while the more noisy 
maniacs are kept in a separate building on the E. The Work-Houses 
come next, where willing hands which can find no work, and vagrants, 
wao will not do honest labor, are furnished with appropriate work. The 
extensive Aims-Houses, with the handsome house of the Superintendent, 
come next, being divided into male and female departments. Then the 
extensive Penitentiary and Cliarity-Hospital are passed, and, on the lower 
end of the island, the ornate building of the Small-Pox Hospital. These 
structures are all of granite, quarried here by the convicts, and probably 
there is no cluster of such institutions, in the same space, in the world, 
which combine so much of safety, comfort, and practical influence for 
correction and restraint. Deep ship-channels run on each side of the 



48 Route 4. BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. 

island, and on the Manhattan shore, opposite its centre, is tlie great 
German Festival-Garden, Called Jones' Wood. Hunter's Point and 
Greenpoint are now passed on the left, and a long line, on both sides of 
the East River, of foundries and factories. Then comes Williamshurg 
with its shipyards. On tlae 1., and beyond it, fronting on Wallabout 
Bay, is the Brooklyn Navy- Yard, the principal naval-station of the 
Union, where several U. S. frigates may usually be seen. Crov.'ded 
wharves now stretch into the stream on each side, with forests of 
masts, while fleet and powerful tug-boats dart to and fro in the river, and 
the crowded and ever busy ferry-boats cross and recross it. The spans 
of the great East-River Bridge are seen near Fulton Ferry. 
Where Brooklyn bends off to the S. W., the steamer turns to the 
W., and passes Governor's Island on the 1. This island belongs to 
the government, and its centre is occupied by Fort Columbus, a low-lying 
but powerful star-fort, mounting 120 guns. A water-battery on the 
S. W. commands the channel toward Brookljai, and a tall, semi-cir- 
cular fort with three tiers of guns, called Castle William, looks toward 
tlie Battery. The steamer now rounds tlie Battery, the tree-shaded 
lower extremity of Manhattan Island. This was once a favorite park, 
but is now neglected. The curious round buiUling at the water's edge 
Avas built in 1807 by the government, as a fortress, under the name of 
Castle Clinton. At a later day great fairs and concerts were held here, 
and it is now used as an emigrant depot. On the 1., Ellis, Bedloes, and 
Stateu Islands are seen, and Jersey City and Bergen. Passing up the 
North River tlie boat soon enters its dock at the foot of Murray St. 
(see New York). 

4. Boston to Cohasset and S. Luxbury. 

Via Old Colony Railroad,39 M. ; 2-2| hrs. 

Boston to Braintree, see Route 3. Beyond E. Braintree is Weymouth 
{Weymouth Hotel), in a rich bay-shore slioe-manufacturiiig town, witli 8 
churclies, 5 villages, 2 lakes, and picturesque shores. It has a neat sol- 
diers' monument. Here, in 1623; occurred the terrible attack of IMiles 
Standish on the assembled Indian chiefs, whose justifiableness has not yet 
been proven clearly. The scene is well described in the 7th part of 
"The Courtship of Miles Standish," by Longfellow. After this affair, 
the Episcopalian colonists left, and in 1621 a company moved in from 
Weymouth, in Dorsetsliire, Eng., who gave its name to the town. 

Stations N. Weymouth, E. Weymouth, W. Hingham, Hingham (see 
Route 2), Nantasket, and Cohasset. The latter is a small town with 
a quaint old church on its green. The rocky shores and resounding 
inlets along the ocean front are very picturesque, and are adorned 
with fine villas, including those of Barrett, Uobson, Crane, Thorne, Boni- 
face, and other actors. 



BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. Route 4. 49 

No district in America yields such quantities of Irish moss as do the shores of 
Cohasset and Seituate. On these same "hard sienitic rocks, which the waves 
have laid bare but have not been able to crumble," in Oct., 1849, the emigrant 
vessel " !St. John " was wrecked, and many scores of passengers were lost. " The 
sea-bathing at Cohasset Rocks was perleet. The water was purer and more trans- 
parent than any I had ever seen. The smooth and fantastically worn rocks, and 
the perfectly clean and tress-like rock-weeds falling over you, and attaclied so 
lirndy to the rocks that you could pull yourself up by them, greatly enhanced the 
luxury of the bath." — Thoreau. Capt. John Smith, when passing by one of 
these rocky promontories, in IGU, was attacked by the Indians with arrows, 
whereupon he says, "We found the people in those jiai-ts verie kinde ; but in their 
furie no lesse valiant." 

At N. Cohasset are the Black Rock and Rockville Houses, while 
the Pleasant Beach House is south of these, and on a point near Minot's 
Ledge is the extensive Glades House. Minot's Ledge is a dangerous 
reef far out from the shore. In 1849, a lighthouse on iron piles was 
built here, but this was swept away in the great storjii of April, 1851, 
and its keepers were lost. The present lighthouse (8 M. from Boston 
Liglit) is 88 ft. high, of which the lower 40 ft. are of solid masonry. 
Stations JV. Scituate, Egypt, Scituate (South Shore House), a quiet 
old marine village looking out on the ocean through a wide harbor-mouth 
scarce a mile away. Cliff St, leads up on an emmence v/hence a fino 
view is gained of the sea, and the singular and desolate bluffs in the S. 
Near by is Peggotty Beacli, with good bathing, but no hotel. 

On Coleman Heig-hts, near S. Scituate station, is the Cottarje House, a 

summer-hotel 150 ft. above the sea, on a plateau of 150 acres, conmiand- 

ing a superb view of ocean, river, forest, and valley scenery. 

Scituate was founded in 1648 by Kentish men, on the Indian domain of SaUdt 
(whence its name). It has 4 churches, 3 hamlets, and broad salt-mars!ies. The 
poein of •' The Old Oaken Bucket " was written in, and is descriptive of a locality 
in, Herring-Brook Valley, near Coleman Heights. 

1 M. from Sen-View station is the new * Hotel Humnrock (200 guests; 
$2.50-3 a day), on the delightful peninsula called by the Indians The 
Humarocks, 5 M. long, and 1,000 ft. wide, between North River and the 
sea. There are many beautiful drives in this region. From Marshjield 
station stages run 4 M. E. to Brant Eock ( ChurchilVs Hotel ; Brant-Rock 
House; Washburn; Bay View, etc.), a small and unconventional sea-side 
resort. The ancient home of Daniel Webster, 2 M. from the station, was 
burned in 1878, and has been replaced by an Elizabethan villa, which 
passed out of the Webster family in 1884. To the S. is the ancient Winslow 
house, built by the Pilgrim Gov. Winslow in the 17tl! century. 

Here we are in the Old Colony, fragrant with the history of the Pilgrims. 

A road turning to the 1. from the main road just N. of the Webster farm, and 
running toward the sea, leads in a few minutes to an ancient burying-ground 
on an (Tcean-viewing hiU. The tirst graves reached are those of tlie Webster family: 
Daniel, and his sons, — Major Edward, died in the Mexican War, and Col. Fletcher 
Webster (12th Mass. Infantry), killed at the battle of Bull Run, 18G2. 

Daniel Webster, bnrn at Salisbury, N. H., Jan. 18, 1782, was in the class of 
ISOl at Dartmouth College, and afterwar<ls became a lawyer. His matchless elo- 
quence and vast ability carried him rapidly forward, and he became a Congress- 
3 D 



50 Route 4. BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. 

man (1813-17, and 1823-27), a Senator (1827-39, and 1845-50), and Secretary 
of State (1840-43, and 1850-52.) "The famous Dartmouth College case, carried 
l)y appeal to Washington in 1817, placed him in the front rank of the American 
bar. Among the great cases argued by him before the U. S, Supreme Court 
were thuse of Gibbons aud Ogden (steamboat monopoly case), that of Ogden 
and Saunders (State insolvent laws), the Charles River Bridge case, the Alabama 

Bank case, the Girard Will case, and the Rhode Island Charter case Dec. 

22, 1820, he delivered his celebrated discourse at Flymoutn on the anniversary 
of the landing of the Pilgrims. Others of this class of efforts were that on the 
laying of the corner-stone of the Bunker Hill Monument (June 17, 1825), and 
at its completion (June 17, 1843), and the eidogy on Adams and Jefferson, July 4, 
1826. He again entered Congress in Dec, 1823; made his famous speech on 
the Greek Revolution ; and, as chairman of the judiciary committee, reported and 
Carried through the House a com]jlete revision of the criminal code of the LF. 
S. In the lyth Congress he made a masterly speech on the proposed diplo- 
matic Congress at Panama His great speech in reply to Hajaie, delivered 

in the Senate Jan. 26 and 27, 1830, on Foote's resolution, has been declared, 
next to the Constitution itself, the most correct and comijlete exposition of the 
true jjowers and functions of the Federal Government." As Secretary of State 
under Tyler and Fillmore, he settled the Northeastern Boundary question (Ash- 
burton Treaty). " Mr. Webster's person vvas imposing, of commanding height, 
and well-proportioned, the head of great size, the eye deep-seated, large, and lus- 
trous, his voice deep and sonorous, his action apiirop.riate and impressive." His elo- 
quence on great occasions has been called '"the lig.itning of passion running along 
the iron links of argument." He was very fond of rural hie, of farming, and of 
fishing and hunting. On the 24tli of Oct., 1852, at his home in Marshheld, died 
Daniel Webster, the foremost man in New England's history. 

Near the Webster Monument is an iron-railed lot, containing the tombs of 
"The Honble. Josiah Winslow, Gov. of New Plymouth. Dyed December ye 18, 
1080, aitatis, 62." "Penelope, ye widdow of Gov. Winslow," and others. 

Edward Winslow came in the "Mayflower," and was governor of Plymouth in 
1633, '36, and '44. He was a warm friend of t.:e Sacliem Massasoit. In 1635. 
while Plymouth's agent. Archbishop Laud imprisoned him 17 weeks in the Fleet 
Prison for heretical acts. He died in 1655, while in i)artial superintendence of a 
fleet sent by Cromwell against the Spaniards. From Edward's brother was de- 
scended Jolm A. AVinslow, rear-admiral U. S. navy, wlio fought in the Mex- 
ican Vv'ar, and in the Western river squadrons, 18^1-63. June 19, 1864, com- 
manding the " Kearsage," he was attacked oilCherl)ourg by the Coufederate war 
steam,er, the "Alabama." The vessels were of about the same strengtii, but so 
skilfully was the " Kearsage " i>rotected and manoeuvred tiiat her opijonent was 
sunk within sight of the crowded Frencli coast. 

Josiah Winslow, son of Edward, was born at Marshfield in 1629, commanded the 
colonial armies t'.irough King Pliilip's War, and was the first native-born governor 
(1673- 1680). His grandson, John Winslow, born at Marshfield, 1702, a brave and 
able oflicer, "was the principal actor in the tragedy of the expulsion of the hap- 
less Acadians from Nova Scotia in 1755 ; and it is a siir^ular fact that, 20 years 
after, nearly every j>erson of Winslow's lineage was, for i)olitical reasons, by the 
force of events, transplanted to the very soil from which the Acadians were ex- 
I)elled." 

Stations, Webster Place (2 M. from Webster Hoiisp, at Cut Pviver); 
Duzbury (Freevuin House, GO guests; ILdlls Jlouse; $7-10 a week); 
and S. Duxbury, in a picturesque old rili^^rim tov.Mi. 

Duxbuiy was allotted to John Alden (youngest of the Pilgrims, wliose great 
grandson commanded the 7th Mass. CoDtineiital Regt., and was killed in battle at 
Cherry Valley), and lO Miles Standish. The Bradfoni^uiiso settled here, and Alden 
Bradford, the autlior, and Gamaliel Bradford, colonel of the I4t!i Mass. Regt. tiirough 
the war for in'lti)en(lence, were born liere. Duxbury was so named from its l7e- 
ing the ho.7ie oi the military chief (dux) of the colony. Standish lived on Cap- 
tain's Hill, a \m\i\ promontory near S. Duxbury, on wliich has lately l)cen erected 
a handsome .; rcular stone tower, 110 ft. higli, surmounted by a statue of Slan- 
dish. The* view thence is one of the grandest on the coast, and imluiles he 
]>ictnres(iMe village and harbor of Duxbury,. wiLti its beai'hcs, a wiile sweep of the 
sea, Plymouth town and harbor, with the Gurnet and Clark's Island, the Kingston 



PLYMOUTH. Routed. 51 

forest, and the bold onMines of Manomet Hill and tlic' Bluo TTills. Miles 
Staiidish, a veteran of the Flanders campaigns, came over with the Pilgrims, and 
was made tlie liead of their arinies (consisting of 12 men), although he did not 
belong to their church. He Avas a short man, very brave, but impetuous and 
choleric, and his name soon became a terror to all hostile Indians. He is the 
hero of a beautiful poem in nine parts, by Longfellow, called " The Courtship of 
Miles Standish." 

Ralph Partridge, the first pastor of Duxbury, "had the innocence of a dove and 
the loftiness of an eagle. His epitaph is ' Avolavit.'" — Mather. 

The Slandish House is a seaside resort near S. Duxbury, with still- 
water batliing, fishing, etc. The scenery in the vicinity is beautiful and 
diversified, witli anticjue houses. At Duxbury is the end of the French 
Atlantic telegraph. The railroad runs S. W. 3 M. from S. Duxbury, to 
Kimjston, on the Plymouth Branch R. Pt. 

5. Boston to Plymouth. 

By Old Colony R. R., 37^ M., in 1% hrs. To S. Braintree, see page 37. 

Beyond S. Braintree, the stations are S. Weymouth {Gushing House); 
N. Abington (Culver ITouse), whence a brnnch line runs E. to Boc.l-lnnd 
(Sherman House) and Hanover (stages thence to E. Pembroke and W. 
Duxbury); Abington (Centennial House), ^ M. from station; ^i. AblngUm 
(Pratt House), whence a branch runs S. W. to E. Bridgewater and Bridge- 
water; N. Hanson, with daily stage to Hanson. 3 M. E. ; S. Hanson, with 
daily stage to Pembroke, 5 M. N. E.; Halifax, with semi-daily s^age to 
Halifax village, 3 M. S W.; Flympfon, near the summer picnic-grounds 
of Silver Lake, and with daily stage to Plympton, b^ M., CarA'er, 124, and 
Middleborough,14; Kingston (Faiuxtt //oiise), whence railroad to Duxbury. 

Plymouth, iTmpame, or patuxet. (Sanioset House, a large and comfortable 
hotel, near the R. R. statmn. §1.50 to $2 a day). 

Elizabeth Queen of England, in 1558 -G2, jiut into operation the Acts of Su- 
preniacy and Uniformity, and the Articles of Riligion, sternly forbidding all forms 
ot religious worship within her realm, save those prescribed by the Church of 
England, of which she was the head. Almost simultaneously a sect si)rang up 
claiming that the Anglican Church still retained many of tl'ie errors of Roniail 
Cathplicism ; while, in opposition to the Queen's primacy and ecclesiastical laws 
tliey maintained that the church was spiritual, governed by the laws of Christ 
given in the New Testament, and separate from temporal affairs and independent 
ot earthly sovereigns. Hence tliey were c.-slled Separatists (sometimes Brown- 
ists) They were imprisoned and mart:>Ted by the government, and in 1508 many 
led to Holland. Churches existed at .Southwark and elsewhere, but the true 
birthplace of the Pilgrim Church (if not at Jerusalem) was at the deserted "Manor 
of the Bishops (of York) at Scrooby. Bancroft, the new primate, redoubled the 
persecutions,^ ill 1602, and in 1608 tl:e church at Scrooby ran the blockade of the 
l-nglish coasL, and went to Amster.lam. In 1G09 the Pilgrims moved to Levden 
c +/".l^r I ^™™ Delft haven, via Southampton, for America. On Sei.t. 

• ^ T, . J^'i;^y""wer, previously driven back by adverse circumstances, left Plv- 
moutn in England, intending to reach land and settle near the Hudson River. By 
treachery or otherwise they struck the continent far north of this point, and oil 
the 21st Dec, 1620, the Pilgrims landed at New Plymouth. Capt. Smith was 
severely attacKed here by the In<lians in 1614, and Standish's rude foravs on 
cape Cod had enraged the aborigines, but the Wampanoag tribe, which iil 1616 
numbered 30.000 souls had been reduced by a great war, followed by a pestilence, 
to a reinnant of 300. By the latter part of March, 44 Pilgrims Lad clied. and then 
iiie bachem Massasoit made an alliance with the dwindling colony In 1622 a 
massive structure Avas erected for a church, with a battlemented i-oof and ord- 
nun-jc, which made it the castle of the village. In 1621 and 1623 other companies 



52 Routed. BOSTON TO TLYMOUTH. 

of Pilgrims crosscrl the sea, after which the colony throve and occupied thencigh- 
boiing lands. In March, 1621, Sanioset and Tis(iuantum came in and told them 
of the land (the latter having been stolen by Hunt, in 1614, from the coast, and 
sold at Malaga as a slave). In 1G24, the first cattle ever in New England were 
landed here, and in the same year Plpnouth was found to consist of 32 houses, 
surrounded by a high palisade with fortified gates. Canonicus, chief of the Narra- 
gansetts, sent a sheaf of arrows bound with a rattlesnake's skin, to Gov. 
Bradford, as a token of hostility. The skin was filled with powder and shot, and 
sent back to Canonicus, who understood this grim answer, and as long as he lived 
restrained his tribe from attacking the colony. As one of the United Colonies, 
Plymouth bore her part in the Indian wars, until it finally joined the colony of 
Massachusetts Bay, in 1692. 

"Methinkslseeitnow, that one, solitary, adventurous vessel, the ' MajiloAver,' 
of a forlorn hope, freighted with the prosi)ects of a future state, and bound across 
the imknown sea. I behold it pursuing, with a thousand misgivings, the uncer- 
tain, the tedious voyage. Suns rise and set, and weeks and months pass, and 
winter surprises themon the deep, but brings them not the sight of the wished- 
for shore. I see them now scantily supjilied with jirovisions, crowded almost to 
sulTocation in their ill-stored prison, delayed by calms, pursuing a circuitous route ; 
and now driven in fury before the raging temi^est on the high and giddy waves. 
.... The awful voice of the storm howls through the rigging. The lal)oring 
masts seem straining from their base ; the dismal sound of the pumps is heard ; 
the ship leaps, as it were, madly, from billow to billow ; the ocean breaks and 
settles with engulfing floods over the floating deck, and beats with deadening, 
shivering weight against the staggered vessel. I see them, escaped from these 
perils, pursuing their all but desperate undertaking, and landed at last, after a five 
months' passage, on the ice-clad rocks of Plymouth, weak and weary from the 
voyage, poorly armed, . . . without shelter, without means, surrouncled by hos- 
tile tribes Tell me, man of military science, in how many months were 

they all swept away by the 30 savage tribes of New England? Tell me, politician, 
how long did this shadow of a colony, on which your conventions and treaties had 
not smiled, languish on the distant coast? .... Is it possible, that, from a be- 
ginning so feeble, so frail, so worthy not so much of admiration as of pity, there 
has gone forth a progress so steady, a growth so wonderful, an exjiansion so 
ample, a reality so iniiiortant, a promise, yet to be fulfilled, so glorious ? " — Ed- 
ward Everett. 

See also Mrs. Hemans' inimitable hjmn, beginning, 

" Tlie breaking waves dpslicd high 
On a stem and rock-bound coast. 

When a hand of exiles moored tlicir hark 
I3y the wild IS'ew iCiigUmd shore." 

* Forefathers' Kock, "the corner-stone of the Republic," upon which 
the Pilgrims lirst landed from their shalloi), is a gray sienitic granite 
boulder, near AValer St. and the harbor. Over it stands a granite canopy, 
in whose attic are the bones of Pilgrims who died in ]()20 - 2L. 

* Pilgrim Hall, a fire-proof granite building on Court St., contains 
Charles Lucy's great ))ainting of the Embarkation of the Pilgrims, a line 
copy of Weir's painting of the same, Sargent's Landing of the Pilgrims, 
and ancient portraits of John Alden, Sir Walter Kaleigh, the AVinslows, 
etc.; also, Aldeu's Bible, Standish's sword, Brewster's chair. Peregrine 
White's candlestick. Carver's chair, Winslow's commission from Crom- 
well, Lorea Standish's embroidery, and many other relics of the May- 
Jloirer, besides 1,200 volumes of ancient books. Every tourist should visit 
I'ilgrim Hall, which is open daily. 

Among the old houses are the Carver house, part of Avhich dates from 
16G7, the Stephens house, about lf)77; the Doten house, before 1669. 



BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. Route 5. 53 

Town Greca is at the end of Main Street. On the site of tlie present 
Gothic Unitarian Church older churches were built in the first days. 
The remarkably homely Church of the Pilgrimage (Cong.) stands near 
by. Opposite this church is the Town Hall, built in 1749. To the 
r. of the Unitarian Church is the path to the * Burying Hill, where 
many of the Pilgrims were interred. Ancient and moss-covered tomb- 
stones cover the green slopes, with here and there more pretentious mon- 
uments, as those to Gov. Bradford, Elder Cushman, and others. In 
1622, the embattled church was built on this hill, witli six cannon on its 
sheltered flat roof. Every man brought his gun and ammunition to 
church, and sentinels, on a tower, watched incessantly. The * view from 
Burying Hill is fine, embracing the harbors of Plymouth and Duxbury, 
Captain's Hill, Cape Cod, Mauomet Hills, &c. Leyden St., the first 
street in New England, runs E. from Town Sqiiare to the water. Near 
the foot of Middle St. and W. of tlie canopy-covered rock, is a small 
green space called Cole's Hill, where were buried 60 of the Mayflower 
company (including Gov. Carver), in 1620-21. Near the Pilgrim 
Hall are the handsome County buildings ; and on Training Green, 
near the High School, is a monument to the town's soldiers who died in 
tlie War for the Union. Behind the High School is Watson's Hill, where 
Massasoit appeared in Marcli, 1621, with 60 warriors, and concluded a 
league with the handful of Pilgrims which was sacredly kept for 50 years. 
Billington Sea, one of the two hundred ponds which are in the vast 
Plymouth Forest ("the Adirondacks of Massachusetts"), is about 2 M, 
from the village, and is 4^ M. around. About 3 M. S. of Plymouth is 
the Clifi'ord House, a favorite summer resort. S. E. of Plymouth is 
the lofty promontory of Manomet, near which is the village (hotel) of 
Manomet Pomls. A strip of sand 3 M. long forms a natural breakwater 
before the town, on which, in Dec, 1779, the war-ship "Gen. Arnold" 
Avas wrecked, and 70 men froze to death on her decks. In the N. part 
of the harbor is Clark's Island, where the Pilgrims remained Dec. 9th 
and 1 0th, 1620. Beyond are the prominent points of Saqiush and the 
Gurnet, on the latter of which stand a lighthouse and Fort Andrew. 

On a high hill uear the Sainoset House stands the * National Monument to the 
Forefathei's, 81 ft. high, of granite and marble. The central statue, representing 
Faith, is 36 ft. high, the largest granite statue in the world. Her right hand 18 
uplifted, and her left holds a Bible, On pedestals about the base will be four sit- 
ting statues representing the cardinal principles of the Pilgrim commonwealth, — 
Morality^ Law, Education, and Freedom Each of these is to be 20 ft high, with 
8 statues in nichod panels by their thrones, ^ach of which will be 9 ft. high, Ilis- 
t(»rical records and bas-reliefs will adorn the sides ol the pedestal, and an internal 
stairway will lead to the feet of Faith. The statues of Morality and Education are 
now in place also, two of the large marble bas-reliefs. 

Plymouth has 7,500 iuliahitants, 2 newspapers, 2 banks, 2 savings-banks, a public 
library, and 9 churches. It is an important port of entry Its manufactures reach 
$4,000,000 yearly, and include cotton duck, woollens, cordage, nails, tacks, rivets, 
zinc and cojiper goods, boots and shoes. The public water-supply comes from 
iSoath Fond. 



53 a. Ro^ite 6. LOSTON TO CAPE COD. 

Plymouth is popular as a summer-resort, being- kept cool by a branch of 
the great Arctic ocean-Lurrent. The Samoset and ClilibrJ Houses, have 
large livery-stables ■which afford facilities for riding to the many interest- 
ing places in the vicmity. Mayflowers (trailing arbutus) are found in 
abumianoe in the great forests near by, where also is a great variety of 
game, — partridges, quails, black ducks, rabbits, foxes, and deer, with 
trout in the brooks, black bass and pickerel in the lakes, and many larger 
(ish in the outer bay. Maaomet BluiFs {Brastoiv IJouse, 50 guests, $8- 
12 a week) are 7 M. from Plymouth, and have been formed into a sum- 
iiiei-nsort, witii cottages and avenues. Tlie facilities for hunting, fishing, 
and bathing are good, and there arc broad sea-views. Near Manomet 
point (S. Plymouth) is the Manomet Jlouse, a favorite summer resort. 

A. M. Watson and E. W. Watson have summer boarding-houses on 
Clerk'' s Island. 

* The Clifford is a handsome first-class hotel at the head of Plymouth 
Beach, with well-kept grounds and choice scenic surroundings. It has 
steam-heat, gas, running water, livery-stable, boats, etc., and affords good 
facilities for visiting the adjacent historic region, rich in diversified scenery. 

6. Boston to Cape Cod. 

By the Cape-Cod Division of the Okt Colony R. R. in 5 - 6 hrs. (to Province- 
town ; tViro, ^;j). Two trains nm eacli way daily. 

Stations. — Boston to Savin Hill, 3 M. : Harrison Siiuare, 3| ; Neponset, 5 ; 
Atlantic, ;4 : WuUaston Heiglits, li^ ; Quincy, 8 ; Quincy Adams, 85 : Bniintree, 
10 ; S. BiaiMtree, lU ; Holbrook, 15 ; E. Stoughton, i"g| ; Brockton, 20 ; Cam- 
pello, 21.V : Matticld, '23| ; E. and \V. Bridgewater, 25 : Bridgewater, 27 ; Titicut 
and N. Middlehoro', 80i- ; Middlelioro', 344 ; Rock, 30 ; S. Middleboro", 42 : Tre- 
iiiont, 45 ; S. "Warchani, 47 ; Warehani, 49 ; Agawa)ri, 51 ; Coliasset Narrows, 

54 (branch to Wood's Holl) ; Monunieiit, 65 ; N. .Sandwich, 58 ; AV. Sandwich, 
59 ; Sandwich, 02 : W. Barnstable, (i9 ; Barnstable, 73 ;' Yarmouth, 75 (Ijianch to 
Ilyanius, 79) ; S. Yarmouth, 80 ; S. Dennis, 81 ; N. Harwich, 83 ; Harv.'ich, 84 ; 
Brewster, 89 ; E. Brewster. 92 ; Orleans, 94 ; Eastham, 97 : N. Easthani, 103 ; S. 
Wcimoot, 100 ; Wellficet, 109 ; S. Truro, 111 ; Truro, 114 ; N. Truro, 120 ; Brov- 
uicetown. 

The train leaves the. Old-Colony station, at the corner of Kneeland and 
South Sts,, and runs S. across Fort Point Channel and hy S. Boston. 
Thence it runs down through the villages of the Dorchester District, with 
frequent views of the bay on the I. The beautiful cluster of villas on 
Savin Hill, the high-placed ]Meeting-House Hill, and commercial Nepon- 
set, where it crosses the Neponset River, are passed. Beyond Atlantic 
and the modern hill-village of \Vollaston Heights the line runs by ancient 
Quincy. John Hancock was born in a house now standing, S. of Quincy ; 
and tlie old John-A<lams mansion is near by, at the foot of Payne Hill. 
Adams Street is N. W. of the station, towards Wollaston Heights, and 
is one of the stateliest avenues in New England, curving gracefully around 
the hill and passing a line of dignified old mansions^ with venei'able trees, 
bright gardens, and well-kept terraces. The tirst house on the r. across 



BOSTON TO CAPE COD. Rovte 6. 53 6. 

the railroad, in the midst of lofty trees, is tlie ancient Adams mansion, 
now occupied by Ciiarles Fi'ancis, of that ilk. On the opposite hill is an- 
other estate pertaining to the same family. Farther up the street are 
tTie beautiful Greenough houses, the one ancient and stately, the other 
modern and cheerful, A cart-road leads from A<iams St. to the granite- 
quarries on J/;'. Ararat, a high hill which commands an interesting view. 
The estate and house of John Quiiicy Adams, Jr., are near Mt. Wollas- 
ton, Ilougli's Heck {Great- mil Hoxise) projects into the harbor, be- 
tween Quincy and Weymouth Bays, and is the site of the Sailors' Snug 
Jarbor, one of Boston's pet charities. On the end of tha peninsula is the 
aigli bluff known as Quincy Great Hill, overlooking tlie harljor. Tlie 
South-Shore Railroad diverges from Braintree ; and the Plymouth Branch 
•iYoni S. Braintree. 

The first station beyond S. Braintree is Holbrook, a prosperous shoe- 
manufacturing village, v/ith a Gothic town-hall and public library, the 
hands(nne Winthrop Church, and the ancient Adams mansion, with its 
famous elm-tree. Franklin St. is 3 M. long, N. and S., on high ground, 
and is lined v/ith fine old estates. Station, E. Stourfhton, a place of 1,100 
inhabitants, devoted to shoemaking, with a paper and several churches. 
The scenery in the vicinity is hilly and })icturesque. Brockton {Brock- 
ton House), the only city in Plymouth County, has 18,000 inhabitants, with 
6 papers, a library, 6 churches, and large manufactories of shoes and shoe- 
tools, furniture, etc. The country-trade is very lucrative. Main St. is 
several miles long, parallel with the railroad, and is a wide and well-shaded 
avenue. Brockton lost 50 men in the Secession War. Ilorse-cars to Cam- 
yndlo; and ten lines of stages to adjacent tovv'us. Campello is a manufac- 
turing hamlet, 1^ M. S , with a considerable Swedish population. 

4-5 M. W. of Brockton, liy the West-Shave road, is Kortli Kaston, wliere 
3 5 of tlie sliovels made in the world are turned out at Ames's great laetories. 
The 1ie;uitiful memmial churcli of the Unitarians, the villas of the Ames family, 
tlie hi;,^h-se!iool (for whieh tlie Ameses gave $40,00')), and the rural cemetery are 
woi'tliy of notice. The town has 2 banks, a library, a i)aper, 6 ehurehes, and 
about 4,000 inhabitants. 

The train runs S. from Brockton near the Salisbury-Plain River, and 
passes two small stations. Bridgewater {Ilijland Ilnuse) is a pros- 
perous village with great brickyards, iron foundries, manufactories of 
cotton-gins, nails, tubes, etc., and machine-works covering ten acres. 
Tlie town has about 4,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, an academy, and one 
oF the normal schools of the State. 

Tlie Indian domain of Xnnkcf.cst was bought of Massasoit by Miles 
Star.dish in 1645, and named Bridgewater, after a town in old Somerset- 
shire. In 1740, Hugh Orr erected a trip-hammer here (on IMatfield 
River), and in 1748 made oOO muskets (tlie hrst made in America) for the 



54: Route G. BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 

Province of Mass. In tlie Revolution lie made great numbers of iron 
and brass cannon and caniiou-balls for the Continental army. Duriiip the 
Secession War 700 men were kept at work here, night and day, for the 
National Government. 

A branch railmail runs N. E. to Elmwood ; E. Bridgewater, a growing villafre, 
with 5 clnirches, 2 iiajicis, chain and cotton-y;in works, and various nianul'ac- 
tories ; and S. Abington, in a town wliicdi is famous fm- a)ii>les 

and nnlk, and lor ius maimlactories of boots and shoes, boxes and tac-ks. 'i'he 
town has 2 banks, 3 ])apers, 9 churches, 4(5 sclio<ds, and 

3 ])nsts of tlie G. A. R. Abin.!:,'tnn was founded in 1648, on tlie Indian donnin of 
lyianamooskeagin. and sent 1,100 men against the Slaveholders' Eebellion, of 
whom 100 were lost. 

lieyond Bri<lgewater the Cape-Cod train passes TUicvt, and soon reaches 
Middleborough {Namaskct House), where several railroads unite. This 
is a i)rosperous town of 5,000 inhabitants, several villages, 7 churches, a 
paper, an academy, a handsome town-hall, a public library, and manu- 
factories of straw-goods, shovels, shoes, boxes, broadcloths, etc. A little 
way to the S. are the great Lakcville Ponds ; and on the E. is the town 
of Carver, with its broad lake-strewn and deer-haunted forests, beyond 
which is the ancient wilderness of Plymouth. S. of Middleborough is 
the secluded town of Rochester, with a pleasant handet in the N., near 
Great Quittacus Pond and Snippatuit Pond. 

Between S. Braintree and Fall River the Old Colony R. R has two lines, eastern 
and western, several miles apart. On the western line (the sliorter of the two) the 
ste:imb(i:it trains run, while the eastern line, running E. of 8. from Boston to 
Middleboro, here turns sharply to the S. W. to Fall KiTer and Newport. From 
Middleboro to Fall River by the niidn (eastern) line is 14 M., passing stations Lide- 
i-iile, M;/ricks^ and Assonct. A branch runs from Miiklleboro to Taunton direct, a 
distance of 10^ M. (fare, 40c.), passing the stations LakcriUe, Chacc's, E. TaiDiloii-, 
and Weir. 3 -4 M S of Middleboro is a cluster of great ponds, abounding in fish. 
Asowaiiisett Pond (LakeviUe House) is the largest sheet of fresh water in the State, 
and contains 6-8 square nnies. On its shores ('.-ipt. Dernu^r was received by the 
Wainpanoag sachems in IGlU, and here the Anti-English chiel, Corbitant, revolted 
against Massasoit, in 1G21, and seized the Plymouth envoys. Standish promptly 
niarcheil forth, fell upon Corbitant's camp by night, and achieved success in the 
first warlike expedition made from Plymouth. 

The Cape Cod Division of the 0. C. R. R. begins at Middleboro. 
Stations, Rock, S. Middleboro, and Tremont. 

From Tremont the Fairhaven Branch runs to New Bedford (IG M.), passing the 
stations Marion, Mattajpoisett, and Fairhaven. 3 M. S. of Marion station (()ld 
Landing), passing Sip])i('an village, is White House Beach, fronting on Sippican 
Harbor. 3-4 M. from Marion station is a high iiromontory, surrounded on three 
sides by Buzzards Bay and Wing's Cove, on which is a favorite sunnner hotel, the 
Great Hill House. Mattapoisctt (Mattapoisett House) is a small village near 
Buzzards Bay, with fine water-views and large inland forests. The fishing in the 
inlets is fine. 

Beyond Tremont and Warcham {Kendrich Uotel), the Cape-Cod train 
affords pleasant views down the N. inlets of Buzzards Bay. 1 M. from 
/.'. Wareham (by branch track) is Onset Bslj (Prospect-Park House, etc.), 
a new seaside resort, where great Spiritualist camp-meetings are held. 
The far-viewing Tempers KnvO, Wldcc^t Jduud, and Indtptiidbnce PuluL 



BOSTON TO CAPE COD. Route 6. 55 

are near by. Steamers run from Wareham to the Great-Hill House. At 
Buzzards-Bay station, the line to Wood's Holl (see page 68) diverges. 
Soon after, the Straits between Buzzards and Buttermilk Bays are crossed, 
and then follow the stations, Monument, N. Sandwich, W. Sandwich, 
and Saiiclwich. " The Cape extends E. from Sandwich 35 M., and thence 
N. and N. W. 30 more, in all '65, and has an average breadth of 5 M." 
It is nearly all sand, with boulders dropped on it here and there. Hitch- 
cock thinks that the ocean has eaten out Boston Harbor, and other bays, 
and built Cape Cod of the minute fragments. A thin layer of soil 
reaches as far as Truro; "but there are many holes and rents in this 
weather-beaten garment not likely to be stitched in time, which reveal 
the naked flesh of the Cape, and its extremity is completely bare." 

It is believed that the shores of Cape Cod are the Furdustrandas (WoiKler- 
Strands) discovered by Tliorhall, the Norseinan, in the year 1007. ("Wlien they 
were ready, and their sail hoisted, Tliorhall sang : Let us return where our people 
are. Ijet us make a bird (vessel), skilful to fly through the heaven of sand, to ex- 
plore the broad track of shi])s ; while warriors who impel to the tempest of 
swords, who praise the land, inhabit Wonder-Strands, and cook whales.") lu 
1524, Verrazzani, in the frigate " Dauphin," coasted about Cape Cod, wliich is 
probably his " Cape Arenas," and in 1525, the Portuguese mariner Gomez, explored 
and mapped much of southei'u New England. The first Anglu-iSaxon in New 
England was Capt. Gosnold, who coasted and named Cape Cod in the year 1602, 
having caught many codlish thereabouts, and landed at different points. 

In 1604, Champlain visited this locality, and named it Cap Blanc (White Cape), 
because the sand contrasted so with the darlc rocls;s of the nortliern coasts. A 
harbor on the S. E. he named Mallebarre, which name still clings to the S. E. 
Cape. In 1609, Hendrick Hudson, with a vessel of the Dutch E. I. Comiiany, 
rediscovered Cape Cod, naming it New Holland, and found a mermaiil near by, 
couceriiing which (or whom) he gives a curious account. In 1614, Cayit. Jolui 
Smith visited the Cape, and describes it as "a headland of Ingli hills of sand, 
overgrown with shrubby pines, hurts, and sucli trasli, but an excellent harbor for 
all weather." Prince Charles, his patnui, named it Cape James, but the name 
did not take. About this time tlie infamous Capt. Hunt kidnapped a ship-load 
of Indians from the coast, so when Harlow landed at the Cape late in 1614, he 
was attacked, and only escaped (with loss) by cannonading the attacking flotilla 
of canoes. In 1616, a French ship grounded or anchored near the Cape, was car- 
ried by boarding, and the Indians killed all on board save four, whom they sent 
far and wide through the country as curious trophies. The luM-rible pestilence 
which immediately after passed over Massachusetts, was attributed by the Indian 
doctors to this fact. In 1620, the vanguard of the Pilgrims appeared in one of 
the Cape harbors, and erelong many villages sprang up here. In 1623, the blame- 
less chiefs, Cawnaeome, Sachem of Manomet (Sandwich), Asiunet of Nauset 
(Chatham), and lyanougli of Cummaquid (Barnstable), were with the council at 
Weymouth when Standish made his attack. They escaped and hid in tlie swamps 
of the Cape, where they soon died of sorrow and privation, and too late it was 
Iiroven that they wore perfectly innocent. Notwithstanding their unfavorable 
experiences of Christian civilization, the Cape Indians passed under its ijitluenc.e, 
and soon 6 Indian churches and IS assemblies, with 24 native pastor.s, were num- 
bered there. Consequently, at the outbreak of the war of 1675, they repudiated 
their ancient allegiance to King Philip, and remained faithful to the colonists. 

Sandwich {Central House) is a town of 3,800 inhabitants, with a 
paper, 10 churches, and 33,000 acres of wild forest. It manufacture.s 
flint and colored glass (600 workmen). The village is near Cape-Cod Bay. 

From W. jBarris^aWe station stages run to Cotnit Port, "the home of 
gonial sportsmen/' 6-7 M. distant, on the S. shore of the Cape. The 



56 Route 6. BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 

highlands ahout the little harbor on which the village is situated are 
partly clothed witii pine woods and interspersed with many fresh ponds. 
The Santuit House, near the teaches on the S. shore, is much visited in 
summer. Barnstahle is a quiet village with the county buildings. 

On Great Neck, in IMarslipee (Massapee), a few M. W. of Cotuit Port, was the 
chief village of tlie Cape Inuiaiis who dwelt on this vesen'ation. In 1G58, Rich- 
ard Bourne went there as a missionary, and formed a church of which he was 
pastor until his death in 1G85. Before King Philip's War there were 10,000 
Christian Indians in New England. Many of these, including scores of the Mas- 
sapees, were killed fighting for their white bretlu^en, or else, remaining neutral, 
were treated ])itilcssiy by the colonists. Nearly every man of the Massapee.'; 
joined the 1st Mass. Reg. in 1775, and but few returned. Gideon Hawley (Yah- 
College, 174'.i) preachesl here 17-'')8 - 1S07. Marsh])ee now has 348 inhabitants. 

Oslerville is on the S. shore, and is a siuunier-resort (Cotocheeset House). 
8-4 .M. N. 10 is Centrevilh, with the Soldiers' Monument; and the picturesque 
Great Pond (750 acres) is just to the N. Barnstable is the best farming town on 
the Cape, and has also a large lleet. The town has 4,800 inhabitants, 11 churches, 
a paper, and 2G schools. It was visited by the Pilgrims in Nov., 1G20, and set- 
tled in l(J3i). The cliief iiroductinns are salt hay, wood, butter, fish, corn, pota- 
toes, and cranberries. Carriages from W. Barnstable station to Osterville 8.^ M. 

Barnstable (Globe House) is a ver}^ quaint old place, near a deep bay. 

Yarmouth^ settled in IG-SQj has 4 villages, 2,000 inhabitants, and many 

vessels. 

A branch railroad runs to Hvannis (hfnvm/gh Hnvxp), a decadent S. -shore port 
and sunr.ncr-resort. U M. S \V. is Hi/an>iis P(r^ (Ilallett IIou>e1 ; and 2 M. W. 
is Cenireville (SaMn'n Hnuse ; Cheqiuwucf Ifniise ; $ 10 a week). 

S. Yarmouth station is 2 M. from the village (Howes' Hott'l). From S. 
Dennis (Nicker.son House) dailv sfnges to E. and W. Dennis. From 
Harwich (Central, Phie-Gmre), stages 2 jM. to ILmrich Port (Sca-VicAv 
House), and 8 M. to Chathnm (Ocean House). Brewster (Ocean TIovi^i') 
is U ]\r. from its station, near Cape-Cod Ray. Large and singular bouldtis 
are found iiere. Many sailors and captains belong in this town, and Orlear.a 
(Shattuck House), and Kastham, which was .settled by the Pilgrims in IH U. 
under the k'ad of Thomas Prince, who was for sixteen years govern- 
or of Plymouth. A fortified church, twenty ft. square, was built, and 
a j)art of every stranded whale was by law reserved for the ministry. 

At Millennitmi Grove In this town were long held extensive camp-meet- 
ings. The line now passes, on the E., the broad, sandy plains of Nauset. 
Stations, N. Easthavi (Nauset House), S. WeUflcet, Wellflect (Ilolbrook 
Hotel). WellHeet Bay opens on Cape Cod Bay, and is sheltered by a 
line of islands. The town has 2,135 inhabitants, a fishing-Heet, 3 
churches, and a soldiers' monument. Its territory is covered with sand- 
hills and pine-plains, among which are 15 fresh-water ponds ; and the 
climate is remarkably healthy. Truro is to the N., with 1,269 inhabi- 
tants, 3 churches, 3 villages, and many ponds. It is a sandy desert, on 
one of whose beaches the British frigate " Somerset " was wrecked in 
1778, and 480 men made prisoners. Near Wellflect, in 171S, the "\^nji- 
dah," a pirate-ship mounting 23 guns, was wrecked, and 130 buccaneers 
were drowned. Truro was settled in 1700, imder the name of Daiiger- 



BOSTON TO CAPE COD. Route 6. 57 

field, as it has perhaps the most fatal coast in New England. Scores of 
vessels have been dashed in pieces on its shore, and hundreds of lives 
have been lost. There is scarcely a family in Truro, or indeed on the 
whole Cape E. of Barnstable, but has lost some member by the disasters 
of tlie sea. Truro lost 57 men and 7 vessels, and Dennis lost 28 men in 
one day of 1841. The lofty Fresnel burners of the famous Highland. 
Light shed a vivid radiance over leagues of rude coast and deep sea. vV. 
Truro has farm boarding-houses, noble ocean scenery, and perfect quiet. 

Thoreau walked from Orleans to Pro^'inoetown (several days) on the ocean side 
of this "sand-bar in the midst of tlie sea," and says : — 

" Tlie nearest beach to us on the east wns on the coast of Galieia, in Spain, 
whose capital is Santiago, though by old jfoets' reckoning it should have been 
Atlantis or the Hesperides ; but heaven is found to be farther west now. At first 
we were abreast of that part of Portugal entre Douro e Mino, and then Galieia 
and the port of Pontevedi-o opened to us as we walked along ; but we did not en- 
ter, the breakers ran so high. Tlie bold headland of Cape Finisterre, a little north 
of east, .jutted toward tis next, with its vain brag, for we flung back, — ' Here is 
Cape Cod, Cape Land's Beginning.' A little iuileutation toward the north— for 
the land loomed to our imaginations like a common mirage — we knew was the 
Bay of Biscay, and we sang : 

' There we lay till next day, 

In the iJay of Biscay, O ! '" 

"A little south of east was Palos, where Columbus weighed anchor, and farther 
yet the pillars which Hercules set up." 

Truro is "a village where its able-bodied men are all ploughing the ocean 
together as a common field. In N. Truro the women and girls may sit at their 
doors and see Avhere their husbands and brothers are harvesting their mackerel 
15-20 M. off, on the sea, with hundreds of white harvest- wagons." 

The 2nd Mass. Continental Regiment marched from this E. end of the Cape, 
and tl;e eight E. towns sent 2,000 soldiers against the Rebellion. 

In Nov., 1620, Standish and 16 men, "with nuisket, sword, and corslet," 
lauded at Long Point, Provincetown, chased the unresisting Indians into Truro, 
pillaged many graves, and carried ofT everything portable. They were attacked in 
Eaotliam, by Indians, but the arrows fell harmlessly from their corslets, while 
the musket-shot told on the half-clad red men. 

'ProvincetO'Wn (G'lffoj-d House ; Central; Pilgrim; Aflnntic ; each §8- 
10 a week), is a curious marine village, with 4,000 inhabitants, a large 
fleet, 5 churches, a paper, public library, sohliers' monument, and 2 banks. 
The street is o M. long, running around the harbor. Fine water-views are 
enjoyed from Town Hill. Daily steamer to Boston, 50 INI. 

The Harbor is a noble one, broad and clear, and is the favorite refuge 
of the fishing fleets. The energies of the townsmen are devoted to the 
fisheries — of mackerel, cod, .and sperm-whales, in whose pursuit tliey 
search the wildest and most distant banks and bays of the N. Atlantic. 
The village lies along the b'.\ach between the sea and the desert, — an in- 
habited beacli, where fisliernien cure and store their fish, wiLhoiit any 
back country, save ocean-breasting knolls of v/hite sand. 

This is the last town in that strange region where the people " are said to be 
more purely the descendants of the Puritans than the inhabitants of any other 
part of the' State." From these shores come the most daring and skilful of 
American seamen. "Wherever over the world you see the stars and stripes float- 
ing, you may have good lio]ie that l)enoath them some one will be found who can 
tell you the soundings of Barnstable, or Wellfleet, or Chatham Harbor." " Cape 



58 n.oute 7. BOSTON TO LIARTHA'S VINEYARD 

Cod is the hare and bended arm of Jrassacliusetts ; the shoulder is at BTizzarda 
Bay ; the elbow, or crazy-bone, at Cai)e Malebarre ; the wrist at Truro, and the 
sandy fist at Provineetown, behind wiiicli the State stands on her guard, with 
her bacl: to tlie Green j\Its., and lier feet i)lanted on the floor of the Orean, like 
an atlilete, — protecting her Bay, boxing with N. E. stonns, and, ever and anon, 
heaving up her Atlantic adversary from the lap of eartli, ready to thrust for- 
ward her other fist, which l<eeps guard the while upon her breast at Cape Ann." 

The era of constitutional government dawned ui>on the world, when, on Nov. 
11, 1()20, the storm-tossed Mayflower anchored in Provineetown Harbor. Here, 
"on the bleak shores of a barren wilderness, in the midst of desolation, with 
tlie blast of winter howling around them, and surrounded with dangers in 
their most awful and appalHng forms, the Pilgrims of Leyden laid the foumlations 
of American liberty." While the Mayflower lay in this harbor, that celebrated 
compact was drawn up and signed, which long governed Plymouth and her de- 
jiemlencies, and of which J. Q. Adams says : " This is, perhajis, the only instance 
in human history of that positive original social compact which sjveculative 
jiliilosophers have imagined as the only legitimate source of government." This 
solemn compact (given below) was signed i)y 41 men (of Avhom -21 died in the next 
four months), 17 of whom had their wives with them, the remaining 43 persons 
being young people and children. 

" In the name of God, Amen. We, whose names are underwritten, the loyal 
sulijects of our dread sovercii;-n lord. King James, by the grace of God, of Great 
Britain, France, and Ireland. King, defender of the faith, &c., having undertaken, 
for the glory o, God, and advancement of the Cliristian faith, and honor of our 
king and country, a voyage to plant tlie first colony in the northern parts of Vir- 
ginia, do, by these presents, solemnly and mutually, in the j)resence of God and 
of one another, covenant and combine ourselves togetlier into a civil body politic, 
for our lietter ordering and preservation, and furtlierance of the ends aforesaid; 
and by virtue hei'eof to enact, constittite, and frame such just and equal laws, 
ordinances, acts, constitutions, and ottices, from time to time, as shall be thought 
most meet and exi)edient for the general good of the colony ; unto v/hich Ave 
promise all due submission and obedience. In Avitness whereof Ave have hereun- 
der inscribed our names, at Cape Cod, the 11th of November, in the year of the 
reign of our soverign lord. King James, of England. France, and Ireland, the 
IStli, and of Scotland the 54th, Anno Domini, IG^O." 

7. Boston to Martha's Vineyard and Nantacket. 

Via Old Colony R. R. and Steamers. To Martha's Vineyard, 7S M., 3^ hrs. 
New York to Martha's Vineyard. To Fall River by steamboat, and thence to 
Wood's HoU by rail, whence the steamer runs to the Vineyard ('^25 M. in all). 

To Buzzard's Bay, see Route 6. Crossing Monument River, the line 
runs on to Monument Beach (Stearns House); Pocasset, near the sea- 
vieAving Pocasset Heigllts (Pocasset-B eiy Ids House ; Bay View), where 
dAvell many summer-cottagers from Boston (steam-yacht to Onset Bay); 
N. Falmouth, near Cataumut Harbor, and the game-haunted Coonemossett 
Pond; W. Falmouth; and Falmouth {Hutd Falmouth), the chief vil- 
lage in a toAvn of 2,400 inhabitants, Avitii 9 clmrches, academy, bank, 40 
ponds, and 140 farms. Falmouth was incorporated in 1G8G, on the Indian 
domain of Succanesset; and in 1814 was bombarded by the British 
frigate Nimrod. 3 M. E. is the Menauhant House. Faimouth Heights 
(* Towej'\s Hotel) is a summer-resort, 1 M. S. E. of Fahuouth, fronting 
on Vineyard Sound, Avith high bluffs, and including 1 M. of beach, 2 small 
lakes, several groves, and numerous summer-cottages. On the E., be- 
yond Waquoit village, is the Indian reservation of ^fashpee. Wood's 
Hell is near Nobska llill and the Elizabeth Islands (page U2). It is a 



MAKTHA'S VINEYAKD. Route?. 59 

safe harbor, where the railroad connects with the steamboat, which crosses 
the Sound to Martha's Vineyard in 7 M. The Webster House is much 
visited in summer. 

Martha's Vineyard. 

* Sea-View House, gas-lighted, steam-heated, with elevator, billiard-room, &c., 
accommodates 250 guests, iff 4.50 per day * Ilighlaud House. Ou Circuit Avenue, 
iu Cottage City, are several good hotels, ou the Eurojjeau plau: Wesley House, 
Pawnee llouse, Central, Island, &c. 

Restaurants at the l*aviUou, Wesley, and Pawuee Houses, &c. 

Pleasure-Boa ts at the Sea-Viow House. 

Sea-baths at the bathing-liouses, on Circuit Avenue beyond Ocean Parlt (30c.). 
Winslow's skatiug-rink. Episcopal Church, ou Lake Ave. 

In May, lu02, Capt. Gosnold coasted the isLuid on tlie S., and landed on a bar- 
ren islet (No Man's Land) to the 8. W. whicli he named Martha's Vineyard. He 
tlieu landed on this island (then called Nope), and found, iu S. E. Cliilmark, deer 
and all kind of game, spvin^js and a Lilie of i)ure fresh water, four kinds of lier- 
ries iu profusion, and trees loaded with fruitful vines. Probaljly then, or dm-' 
ing las stay at Cuttyhunk (over three weelcs) the name was transferred from No 
Man's Land to its present pos^-cssor. The name is thought to have been given in 
honor of some friend of tlie Captain's, or else for the lady of some one of his 
patrons. (A newspaper correspondent states that the oldest inhabitant, who 
ovv^ned these isles, gave them to his daughters ere he died. Riioda took Rhode 
Island, Elizabeth took the island since named for her, Martha took and named 
Martha's Vineyard, and as for tlie reriiaining i-jland, Nan-took-it. The legend is 
interesting, but cannot be traced back farther than the year 1870.) From this 
island and the neighboring main, Gosnold and Fring (1G03) got large cargoes of 
sassafras, then esteemed a sovereign specific in Europe. In 1G14, Capt. Hunt 
stole 27 Indians at Eastham, on Cape Cod, and sold them as slaves at Malaga, for 
$ 100 each. One of them, Epenow, was carried to England, where tiie sly fel- 
low told of vast gold-mines on this island. A ship was sent over, at great ex- 
pense, with Epenow to show the place, but as soon as he saw the shore, he leaped 
over, swam to land, and was not seen again until Capt. Dcrmer landed here in 
1619. In a dashing attack conducted by Epenow, the Captain and many of his 
men were killed and woundeil. In lo47, Thomas Mayliew, Governor of the Islands 
by grant from the Eail of ytirling, settled at Edgartown. The lordship of the 
isles remained in the Mayhew family fi'om 1G41 to 1710, during which time the 
kindness of these men won the hearts of the natives. Tlie Mayhews were all 
missionaries, and, learning tlie Indian language, preached with sucli success that 
Christian villages arose all over the island. During King Philip's V/ar, the con- 
verts remained true, and guarded the sliores. About 1060, some Quakers landed 
here calling the Puritan pastors "priests of Baal," but the Indians soon drove 
them (jff. Gookiu visited the island in 1674, and fomid six towns of Christian 
Indians, " a very fruitful Vineyard unto the Lord of Hosts." For a century the 
Indians slowly dwindled, and the coasting ^■essels began to frequent Holmes' Hole 
in yearly increasing numbers. In 177S, Lord Gray (who defeated Wayne at Paoli) 
Avith a British force, destroyed a large niunber of \-essels in the Hole. In 1S35, 9 
tents were pitched at the present (Jamp-Grounds, and the first camp-meeting ou 
the island was held. 

Tlie Wesleyau Grove, or Camp-Meeting Grormd, is near the Sea View 
House and is laid out iu gracefully curved streets, grass-paved and crowded 
with small but vigorous trees. Near Trinity Park, a wide lawn, is the 
great tabernacle tent 160 by 120 ft. which can shelter 5,000 persons. 
Tliis is the centre of intense excitement during the meetings in late 
August, when from 20,000 to 25,000 people are gathered here, and emi- 
nent Methodist preachers address them. Lake Anthony borders the N". 
and W. of the ground, and beyond it, on the high bluffs toward East 



60 Route?. MARTHA'S VINEYAED. 

Chop LiiJ^ht, the " Hiiclilands " have been laid out. Cottage City was laid 
out in 1808, on bluffs ^jO ft. hii^di fronting on Vineyard Sound, and now 
contains man}' hundreds of handsome siimnier-cottages, surrounded by oak- 
groves and connected by avenues. A narrow-gauge railroad and the Sea- 
View Boulevard follow the siiore S. E. to Edgartown (6 M.) and Katania. 

Edgartown {Atlantic; Seaside) was founded in 1647 by Gov. Mayliew, 
and is the capital of Dukes County. The harbor is sheltered by Chap- 
paquiddick Island (5 M. long and 2 M. wide). The town has 1,300 in- 
habitants, a fleet, bank, paper, library, and 3 churches. It has become 
decadent since the decline of the whale-fishery. 

Katama is 4 M. S. of Edgartown, and is a summer-resort on tlie lake- 
like Katama Bay (5 M. long), with numerous cottages and the handsome 
hotel called ^ Mattakeset Lodge. Katama has good facilities for boating, 
bathing, and driving; also for fishing and bird-shooting. 

By walking to the East Chop Eight, a view is gained of Holmes' Hole, 
or Vineyard Haven (Mansion House), one of the most famous harbors on 
the coast, where, in seasons of stoi'm, hundreds of vessels take shelter 
under the lofty bluffs. Through Vineyard Sound passes the vast and 
unceasing procession of commerce from New York and Southern New 
England to Boston and the East. The island is 21 M. long, and has 4,300 
inhabitants. 

20-25 M. S. W. of Oak BlufTs is Gayliead, near which is the Devil's Den, a 

wild spot where the old Indian traditions say tliat llie giant Mosliup lived, v>iio 
cauglit Vv-hales and roasted tiieni on trees wiiich he tore up by tlie roots. He 
Tiictamoryhosed liis children into iJsii, and, on his wife's lamenting, he threw her 
to Seconnet, where slie dwelt and levied contributions on all who passed the 
rocks, until she herself became a rock. Then Moshnp disai)i)eared from Imman 
sight and luiowlcdge. Gay Head is "the most remarkahle natural curiosity in 
New England." The sea-view from the lighthouse is grand. "Never since I 
stood on Table Rock have I seen a sight so grand as this." — General Twiggs. 
About this promontory several score of half-breed Indians live a strange unsettled 
life. The remarkable clitfs by the shore have been closely studied by Prof. Hitch- 
cock and Sir Charles Lyell. the latter describing them as "the lofty cliils of Gay- 
bond, more than 200 ft. high, where the highly inclined tertiary strata arc gayly 
colored, some consisting (it" light red clays, others of white, yellow, and green, 
and some of black lignite." Here the steamship City of Columbus was wrecked, in 
1884, and 100 lives were lost. 

Nantucket 
is 28-30 jNI. from Martha's Vineyard, and connected with it by a daily 
steamer. After leaving the Vineyard astern, the islands of Muskeget and 
Tuckernuck are seen in the S., and the low shores of Nantucket. The 
town of Nantucket has a fine appearance from the sea. 

The hotels are the Ocean IIou.=;e, Springfield, Shelburne, Bay View, Veranda, 
American, &c., and many quiet boarding-houses. Narrow-gauge railroad to Siii'f- 
si<le {* Surfside Ilolel), a new cottage-colony on the S. shore ; and to Sia.sconset. 
*The Nantuclctt is a large new hotel on Brant Point, at the mouth of the harbor. 

The Indian tradition is that t'lc Great Si)irit was once smoking, when he partly 
tilled his pipe with sand. When the mixed remains were emptied from the ))i]ie 
into the sea, they formed the Island of Nantucket. Its name is said to be an 



AND NANTUCKET. Route 7. 61 

Indian modification nf Nautikon, a name left by the Norsemen who visited it in 
t'la 11th century. The best authority pronounces it a corruiition of an Indian 
v/ord meaning " iar away." It is called Natocko on the map of 1630. It was 
visited by Gosnold in lij02, at which time about 1,500 Indians were here, and the 
island was covered with oaks. In 1604, Champlain and Poutrinconrt landed here 
and remained several diiys, for the relief of those men of tlieir command w'lo 
had been wounded in a battle with tlie Indians at Chatliam. Weary and dis- 
spirited, they ceased their explorations here, and returned to Port P.oyal, naming 
these sad shores "Isle Uouteuse." In 16U, Mayhew was made Governor of 
the Islands, his sway extending here. In 16-39, he dee>leil jj^, of the island to ten 
men for £30 ami two beaver hats, and one family moved there, there being then 
7()0 friendly Iiidians on Nantucket. 

In 1G65 King Philip visited his people here, and in 1671 the town Avas incor- 
porated (.at ^laddefiuet, 5-6 M. W. from the present town), and in 1672 moved to 
its present place. In 1072 the first wh.ale was taken. In 1073 tJie town was called 
Sherburne by the New York Governor, in who e doiiiaiu it was until 1693 (tlie 
name was retained till 1795). The 700 English had no church or pastor, tiiough 
the Indians liad four churches. A white church was forined in 1711. In 1755 -G 
9 whaliug-slon])s were sunk or captured, and but few men of their crews ever re- 
turned. In 1704, there were 3,220 whites on tlie island ; and a iilague, the same 
year, swept off § of the Indians, leaving but 130. 1,000 Nantucket men died in 
the Continental Army. In 17S4 the x'oi'ulation was larger than it is now. In 
1S21, 78 ships and SI smaller vessels wexe owned here, and mostly engaged in 
whaling. Tlie last Indian died in 1S54. Notwithstanding devastating fires in the 
town, Nantucket in 1840 had 9,712 inhabitants. 

The town (400 buildings) was burned down in 1846, and the same year 
the whaling business began to decline, until now there is but one small 
vessel engaged in it, and in the town which has houses for 10,000 people 
there are but about 3,700. The houses are of a quaint old style, with 
platiorms on the roofs (whence to watch the ships coming in). Tlie North 
Cliurch was the first on the island, and was built in 1711. It is still used 
by the same society as a vestry, and its oaken timbers are hard as iron. 
\ M. from the Ocean House, on Centre St., is a small house which was 
built in 16S2. The hospitality of the old families of Nantucket is famous, 
and its churches and schools are numerous. Many houses have been 
taken down and shipped away, but of Late real estate is rising, as city 
men are securing summer homes here. Maiii St., at the head of which 
is the old Pacific Bank, has tlie shops of the towni (shells and marine 
curiosities may be bought here), and is a wide, deserted, grassy street lead- 
ing to the heads of silent and decaymg wharves. The low, sandy beach 
which shelters the harbor stretches N. W. 8-9 M. to Great Point, leav- 
ing a wide and quiet lagoon between it and the island. At the Athenroum 
is a public library and a museum of marine curiosities and relics of the 
older days of Nantucket. Tlie Squantum is a peculiar institution of the 
island, being an informal picnic on the beach-sands, where the dinner is 
made of fish or other spoils of the sea. Excursions to the fishing grounds 
are managed by veteran skippers, who let themselves and their boats 
cheaply. There are rides to the ancient districts on the W. shore, and to 
the beaches on the S. shore. Siasconset ( Ocean- View, 100 guests, $ 10 - 
15 a week; Atlantic), 8 M. from the town, is composed of a cluster of quaint 
little cottages on a high bank fronting the ocean. Surf-bathing here is 



62 Routes. HYDE PARK. 

safe only when the bathers use ropes, as (he shore descends rapidly. 1 M. 
N. of Siasconset is Sankoty Head, where a powerful Fresiiel light is elevated 
on a far-viewing bluff 90 ft. high. 1 M. N. of Sankoty Head is the beauti- 
ful Sesacacha Pond, of pure, sweet water and abounding in fish (small inn 
on the shore). In 1G76 a village was built on this pond and remained for 
140 years; but its last house was torn down in 18-20. Most of the island, 
over which rambles may be made, consists of high, breezy, sea-viewnng 
plains, where but few fences or houses are seen, and which "the traveller 
will call downs, prairies, or pampas, as he happens to come from England, 
the West, or Buenos Ayres." 

8. Boston to Providence and New York. 

By the Boston & Providence R. R., and the Shore Line to New York (7 hrs.\ 

or by stoaiucr from Stoiiington (12-14 las.) 

Stations. — Boston to Roxbury, 2 M. ; Jamaica Plain, 3o ; Hyde Park, 7A : 
Readvilie, 8^(Dedliam, D^) ; Canton, 14 ; Sharon, 17^ ; K. Foxborougii, 21^ ; Mnus- 
lield, 24; \V. Manstield, 26; Attleboi'ougli, 31 ; Dodgeville, 32; Hebrouville ; 
Pawtucket, 39 ; Providence, 43^. Sionington & Providence R. R. Auburn, 49 ; 
Hill's Grove, b\k ; Apponaug, 52^ ; Greenwich, 5(U ; Wickford Junction. 67-2- ; 
Slucuiii's, 71 ; Kingstuii, 74 ; Carolina, SO ; Wood-River Junction, S3 ; Nianlic, 
87 ; Westerly, 88 ; iStonington, 94 ; Mystic, 98 ; W. Mystic, 99 ; Noaiik. I(i3 : 
Groton ; New London, 106. Shore Line, N. Y., N. H. & H. R. R. Boston to New 
London, 106 M. ; Waterford, 110 ; E. Lyme, 114 ; S. Lyme, 118 ; Black Hall, 121 ; 
Lyme, 123; Saybrook, 124^; Westbrook, 128; Clinton, 133 ; Madison, 136; East 
River, 138^ ; Guilford, 140^ ; Stony Creek, 145 ; Branford, 148 ; East Haven, 
152 ; Fairhaven, 154^- ; New Haven, 150^ N. F., jY. //. & H. R. R. Boston to 
New Haven, 156^ M. ; W. Haven, 150 ; Milford, 167 ; Naugatuck Junction, 170; 
Sti-atford, 171 ; Bridgeport, 175 ; Fairlield, 180 : Southport, 181 ; Westport, 186 ; 
S. Norwalk, 189 ; Darien, 192 ; Noroton, 194 ; Stamford, 197 : Cos Cob, 200 ; 
Greenwich, 202 ; Port Chester, 204 ; Rye. 206 ; Harrison, 208 ; Mamaroneck, 210 ; 
Larch Manor, 212 ; New Rochelle, 214 ; Pelhamville, 215 ; Mount Yernon, 217 ; 
Williams Bridge, 220 ; New York, 231. 

The train leaves the splendid terminal station in Boston (on Cohinihns 
Ave., near the Common), and traverses the made land S. W. of the citj', 
between Columbus and Huntington Aves. At Roxbury station it crosses 
Tremont St., and then passes Boylston and Jamaica Plain (see Route 2). 
As the train approaches Boylston station, the quaint buildings of the 
Massachusetts Infant Asylum are seen on the r. Beyond the stations for 
Forest-Hills and Mt.-Hope Cemeteries is Hyda Park {Everett House and 
Willard H:inse, used also as summer-resorts), a large suburban village, 
many of whose citizens are engaged in business in Boston. This town 
was incorporated in 1868, and has 7,500 inhabitants, 6 churches, a ])ai)er, 
a library, and several factories. Readmlle is 1.^ M. S., and was occui)ied 
by great encampments of State troops during the war for the Union. 
The roads from Hyde Park and Readville to the E. over Fairniount and 
the Blue Hills are full of interest, giving beautiful views in all directions. 
The hamlet of Mattapan is 1 M. N. E. of Hyde Park, down the Neponset 
River; and Milton is 4-5 M. E., over the hills. At Read\iile the i res- 



CANTON. Routes. 62 a. 

ent route meets its Dedham Branch, and the New York & New-England 
11. R. (See also page 37.) 

Dedham {Norfvlh House), the quiet and antiquated capital of Norfolk 
Coimty, is reached by two branch railroads from the main line, one 
diverging at Forest Hills and running 5 M. through W, Roxbury, the 
other leaving at Readville, and running W. N. W. 1.^ M. The town has 
6,500 inhabitnts, 10 churches, 2 papers, a bank, a liljrary, a soldiers' monu- 
ment (for 47 dead), a handsome Memorial Hall, and a granite court-house. 
The streets are 2)leasant and vv'ell-shaded, and many Boston merchants 
have homes here. The elm-trees completely overarch the streets for long 
distances, and the sidewalks are fringed with arbor-vitce. The Charles 
River curves in close to the village on the N. St. Paul's Church (Epis- 
copal) is a handsome Gothic structure of stone, on Church St., and near 
the ancient cemetery. It has a tall stone s})ire and rich stained win- 
dows ; and in its yard is the monument of Alexander Griswold, Bishop 
of the Eastern Diocese. The Court H mse has Doric colonnades at each 
end, and is surmounted by a high dome which rises finely over the trees 
in distant views of the village. In the corner of the enrailed Court- 
Honse grounds is the ancient Pillar of Liberty, which was set up by the 
Sons of Liberty in 1766. The anti(|uateii Unitarian and Congregational 
Churches are near the Court House. The County Jail is a massive stone 
building, in modei'n architecture. The Memorial Hall is a graceful stone 
structure, not far from the station. Dedham has many ancient mansions, 
in wide and pleasant grounds, and is by many visitors considered the 
most beautiful village in Eastern Massachusetts. It has a large Catholic 
Church, a handsome station, and the picturesque Oakdale Cemetery. A 
branch of the N. Y. & N. E. R. R. reaches Dedham. 

Stages run from the trains to ]V. Dedham, a rural hamlet 3 M. S. W. 
Mill Village is just E. of Dedham, and lias several factories. 

Dedliain was settled ia 1G35, imder the name of Contentment , and in 1640 t^ie 
first canal in America was dug liere, to increase the navigable fa-ilities of the 
Nc[>f)nset River by turning into it part of tlie Cliarles River. It i.s 3 M long, 
falling GO ft., and is called Mother Brook. The town was fortified and menacc4 
during King Pliilip's war (Li570), and sent troop.s to the attack on Havana (,1740), 
none of who:n ever returned. iSlie sent 100 soUliers to the Revolutionary armies, 
and (572 to the Secession War. Fisher Ames was born here in 1758, and was an 
eniinctit lawyer and orator, and a leader in tlie Congress of the Confederation era. 

Beyond Readville the main line crosses the N. Y. & New-England 
R. R., and ascends the Neponset valley to Canton {Tirrell IIvusc), 
the chief place in a town of 4,192 inhabitants, with manuf.ictoi-ies of 
silk, cotton, fancy woollens, shovels, rubber, axles, machinery, and cop- 
per and iron wares. It has 5 churches, a bank, and a high school ; and 
occupies the site of one of the ancient villages of Christian Indians 
established by the Apostle Eliot. To the N. is the picturesque Blire 
Hill, 635 ft. high, overlooking Boston aii<l the bay, and many busy vil- 
lages, Ponka^xxj Pond is near the hilLs, and covers 200 acres. Not 



0)2 h. Routes. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

far from its shore lives Thomas B. Aldrich, the poet. Near the station 
the railroad traverses a massive granite viaduct, 600 ft. long and 63 ft. 
high, near which a branch road diverges to Stoughton, on the Old-Colony 
Railroad. 

The line now enters the highland town of Sharon, which has 1,600 in- 
habitants, 5 churches, small factories, and forests which yield much fire- 
wood and charcoal. The Masscqioag House is a pleasant summer-hotel, 
on a hill aboiit 1 M. S. of the station and village, near the pretty Massa- 
poag Lake, which covers 450 acres, and affords boating, bathing, and 
lishing. Among tlie bold highlands of Sharon, Moose Hill is most con- 
spicuous, and commands a rich prospect. 

Beyond Sharon the line follows the valley between Bear-Foot Hill (r. ) 
and Cow Hill, and reaches E. Foxborough, 2 M. E. of Foxborougli Cen- 
tre {Cocasset House). This picturesque town has 3,168 inhabitants, 3 
churches, a park and ornamental cemetery, and a handsome granite 
memorial building in honor of its dead soldiers (used by the public li- 
brary). The specialty of Foxborough is straw hats and bonnets, whose 
manufacture engages over 1,600 persons. 

At Mansfield {Mnnsjidd House) the line meets railroads to New Bed- 
ford (31 M.) and S. Framingham (21^ M.). This town has 2,050 inhabi- 
tants, 7 churches, and several small factories. Most of the people are 
engaged in farming, on level lands of dubious value. W. Mansfield is a 
pretty hamlet, near Wading River. 

Attleborough (Park-St. Hotel) is a prosperous village which contains 
nearly 50 manufactories of gold and plated jewelry of all kinds, besides 
3 cotton-mills, and other industries. The town was settled in 1069, and con- 
tains 12,000 inhabitants, 2 banks, a paper, a farmer's hall, and 8 churches. 

Branch niilroads run from Attleborouuh to N. Attlehorn'iijh (o M.) and to Tauii- 
iOH (II M.), the latter of which crosses Norton, the seat of the Vvheaton Female 
Heniinarv. iStages run to Plaiuville, S. Attleborougli (4 M ), N. Rchol.otli (fi M.). 
and Kehoboth (11 M.). Rehoboth is a Hebrew name j.;iv('n by a Pilgriin pastor to 
the Indian domain of Seconnct. The town is remote from railroads, and has 
1,800 inhabitants, 320 farms, G churches, and 5,000 acres of cedar-swamps. 

Beyond the stations of Dodgeville and Hebronville the train reaches 
Pawtucket, Rhode Island (branch from Ea^t Junction tr> Runiford and India 

Point). 

Pawtucket (Pawtucket Hotel; Park House) was the scene of a bloody 
action in 1070. Captain Pierce, with 70 men, was driven back to the river 
by the Indians, and his party was fairly showered with arrows. When 
help came, not one man was living. At present, Pawtucket is the princi- 
pal thread manufactory in America, and wadding, hair-cloth, rope, braid, 
&c., are made here. Tlie Dunnell Manufacturing Co. has 36 buildings, and 
prints 22,500,000 yards of calico yearly. The town has 25,000 inhabitants, 
11 churcliGs, a newspaper, and a pid)lic library. The Pawtucket River 
falls here 50 ft., giving a valuable water-power. 



' PROVIDENCE. MouteS. C3 

Providence (* Narmgansett House, corner Broad and Dorrance Sts., an 
eleo:ant new house, $2.50-4 a day; * Hotel Dorrance, $2.50-4 a day; 
Aldrich House; Central Hotel, 6-10 Canal St., European plan) is the 
second city, in wealth and population, of Xew Enii:lnnd, and a semi- 
capital of Ehode island. It is beautifully situated on hills at the head 
of Niuragansett Bay, a cove of which lies far in the city and is suirouuded 
by promenades. The view of the city from the Bay, or from the heights 
E. of the river, is very pleasing. The China trade was once largely en- 
joyed by Providence, but .since its loss the energies of the citizens have 
turned to manufactures, and now large jewelry, iron, stove, and locomo- 
tive works are kept going. The Corliss engines, the Peabody rifles, the 
Gorham silver-ware, Perry Davis's Pain-Killer, and millions of cigars are 
made here. 36 banks take care of the money. 

Providence Avas founded and named by Roger Williams, Avho was banished ft'om 
Massachusetts in 1636, for his advanced ideas relative to Church and «tate. He 
was boi'n in Wales, 1599, educated at Pembroke College, Cambridge, and preached 
for some time at Salem, Mass. After his exile he settled at Seel^onk, wlience he 
was soon warned away by the Governor of Plymouth. In a canoe, with five 
(companions, he dropped down the river, until, in passing a cove (near the present 
India St. Bridge), he was ii.iiled by sorae Indians with tlie words, " What clieer, 
Netop? " (friend). He lauded in tliis cove on the celebrated What Cheer Rock, 
and then coasted around to the mouth of Providence River, where he landed and 
remained. This was in June, 1633. Soon after he visited the Sacliem Canonicns (o;i 
Canonicut Island) and received a grant of the land hereabouts. In 1639 Williams 
became a Baptist, and in 1643 -■! went to England, and got a charter for the new 
colony. In King Philip's War, every house between Stonington and Bridgewater 
(save Providence) was destroyed, and the little colony was once fiercely atitacked, 
and lost 30 houses. In the royal census of 1730, Providence had 3,916 inhabitants. 
De Warville visited it in 17S8, and reported it " decayed, and in the silence of 
death." In ISOO, it had 7,611 inhabitants, and in 1883, 116,755. 

The E,. R. station, fronting on Exchange Place, is a large, handsome 
building, near which is a costly * monument, erected by the State in 
honor of her dead soldiers. The base of this work is of blue Westerly 
granite, bearing the arms of the U. S., and of R. I. Surrounding this 
are four 7-ft. bronze statues representing the Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery, 
and the Navy ; above which is a statue of militant America (10 ft. high), 
bearing a sword and laurel wreath in one hand, and a wreath of immor- 
telles in the other. The names of 1,680 R. I. soldiers who died in the War 
for the Union are inscribed on the monument, which was designed by 
Randolph Rogers, of Rome. Near Exchange Place, and parallel to it, is 
Vv'estminster St., the main thoroughfare of the city. From this street to 
Weybosset St. runs the Arcade, a fine granite building (built 1828), on 
the plan of the European "galleries," containing a great number of shops 
ranged along a glass-roofed promenade. In the vicinity is the massive 
granite building of the Custom House and Post Oflice. The most notabla 
churches are St. Joseph and St. Mary (Roman Catholic), the Union 
Congregational, the Roger Williams Baptist, the ancient First Baptist 
\society founded 1G39), Grace Church, and St. Stephen's (Episcopal), a 



64 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

massive edifice of rugged brown stone, with a deeply recessed chancel, an 
ornate roof, and riclily stained windows. There are 80 churches in the 
city. In the S. part, and fronting on the harbor, is the stately building 
of the * E. I. Hospital, surrounded by pleasant grounds. Some distance 
S. of this, the city is preparing a park on the bold shores of the Narra- 
gansett Bay. 

On the E. side of Providence River are two long business streets and a 
line of heights covered with residences. On N. Main St., near Presi- 
dent, is the quaint old church of the First Baptist Society, and beyond it, 
on the corner of S. Court St., is the small brick building used for the 
State House. Fine views of the "sevfeu hills of Providence" are gained 
from Benefit St. above the State Hoiise. On the corner of College and 
Benefit Sts. is the * Athenaeum, a sturdy little granite building, con- 
taining a library of 42,000 volumes. Several busts are preserved here, and 
some fine pamtings, among which are a copy of Stuart's Washington, 
by Allston ; portrait of Channing, Allstmi ; Charles II., long thought to 
be by Van Dyk, now held to be by Caspar ; portraits of Gen. Greene, J. 
G. Percival, and Phillips Brooke ; * portrait of a young lady, (his niece ?) 
reading, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, one of his finest works. But the gem 
of this collection is Malboue's masterpiece, * " The Hours," painted in 
water-colors on a sheet of ivory 6 inches by 7, and presented to the 
Athenceum in 1853, by 130 subscribers. Tlie picture represents Eunomia, 
Dice, and Irene, the Past, Present, and Future. The President of the 
Royal Academy said of it to Monroe, " I have seen a picture, painted by 
a young man by the name of Malbone, which no man in England could 
excel." On the heights near the Athenaeum is the line of buildings 
(R. I. College, Hope, Manning, and University Halls, &c.), pertaining to 
Brown TJniversity. There is here a fine library of about 60,000 volumes, 
a rausei;m of Natural History containing 10,000 specimens ; and in the 
portrait gallery 38 portraits, some of which are of value. 

Rhode Island College was founded at Warren in 1764, and removed to Provi- 
dence in 1770. Its buildings served as a hospital for the Franco-Auierican army 
during great part of tlie Revolution. Nicholas Brown, and others of that dis- 
tingi;ished R. I. family, having greatly aided the college, in 1804 its name was 
changed to Brown University. Two tliirds of the Boards of Fellows and Trustees 
are required by the charter to be Baptists. 

The hall of the R. I. Historical Society is near the University, and 
contains many relics of the Indians and early settlers, together wdth 6,000 
books, 30,000 pamphlets, and 7,000 MSS. On Hope St., N. W. of the 
University, are the extensive biiildings, surrounded by fine grounds, of the 
Dexter Asylum (for the poor), near which are the ornate buildings of the 
Friends' Boarding School. The Butler Hospital for the Insane has large 
and stately edifices, surrounded by 115 acres of ornamental grounds, on 
the heiehts which look down on the widenings of the Seekonk River 




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PROVIDENCE. Route 8 65 

(which is the boundary of Massachusetts). N. of the Butler Hospital is 
Swan Point Cemetery, a beautiful rural necropolis on undulating ground 
near the river. The Home for Aged Women is in the S. E. part of the 
city. Near the E. end of Power St., on the banks of the rivei', is the 
What-Cheer Kock, on which Roger Williams first landed. 

The Butler Exchange, near the station, is an imposing 6-story commer- 
cial building. The Court House (corner Benefit and College Sts.) was 
finished in 1877, in Gothic architecture. In a similar style is the High 
School, on Summer St. (built in 1878). The granite City Hall fronts on 
Exchange Place, near the station, and cost over $ 1,000,000. The Library 
of Brown University is in a handsome Venetian-Gothic building ; SaA^es 
Memorial Hall (built in 1880) is Romanesque, of granite; and Slater Hall 
(built in 1879) is a modern dormitory'. The armory of the First Light 
Infantry is a very large building on South Main St. ; and the fortress-like 
armory of the Marine Corps of Artillery is on Benefit St. The Cathedral 
of SS. Peter and Paul, on High St., is a noble Gothic structure, of rough- 
faced red Longmeadow stone, with white-marble clustered columns, up- 
holding an oaken roof. The Friends' meeting-house is on N. Main St. 

Roger Williams lies buried in the North Burying-Ground; and in the 
Park is a noble bronze statue of him, on a granite pedestal<27 ft. high, 
with a bronze figure of History writing his name on the base. On Stamp- 
ers Hill is the site of the King's Garrison fort, erected in 1656, which did 
not save the town from destruction by the Indians twenty years later. 
The Whipple house, on Abbott St., dates from before 1670 ; the Old City 
Building, in Market Sq., from 1773; the Old State House, from 1762 (it 
contains a portrait of Washington, by Gilbert Stuart). The Public Library, 
on Snow St., has 16,000 volumes. The city gasometer is crowned by the 
largest dome in America (140 ft. in diameter). 

Koger -Williams Park was given to the city by Betsy Williams, great- 
great-granddaughter of Roger Williams, in 1871; and includes 100 acres 
of beautifully diversified land, with the venerable gambrel-roofed house 
of the donor (built in 1775), the What-Cheer Cottage (for refreshments), 
Crystal Lake, and other attractions. 

Broad St., a favorite drive, leads to the Park, and to Pawtuxet (4^ M.), 
passing the popular Park Garden and theatre. Near Cranston are the 
State Prison, and the Pettaconsett Pumping-Station. 

Theatres, etc. Low's Grand Opera House, Westminster St., seats 1,800 ; Music 
Hall, 276 Westminster St., seats 2,200 ; Providence Opera House, Dorrance St., seats 
1,500; Theatre Comique, 83 Weybosset St.; Park Garden; Sans-Souci Garden. 
Concerts by the Arion Club (160 voices), Cecilia Society (100 voices), Liederkranz 
(80 voices), and Mendelssohn Choral Union (200 voices). Art-Chib rooms, 35 
N. Main St. 

Base-Ball Ground s,Messer St. (Olneyville horse-cars). Bicycle Chib, Custom- 
House St. Board of Trade, Market Sq. Caledonian ,S'oc((^^//, 142 Westminster 
St. Tennis Club, Brook and Manning Sts. Y. M. C. A., 276 Vv^estminster St. 

Horse-Cars to Olneyville, S. Providence, Pawtucket (10 cts.), Central Falls, 



65 a Routes. NARRAGANSETT BAY. 

the Park, Pawtuxet (12 cts.), Cranston, Swan-Point Cemetery, &c., the lines cen- 
tring at Market Sq. Stages daily to Danielsonville (25 M.). 

Steamboats daily (in Summer) to Block Island, Mount Hope, &c. Several 
times daily to Rocky Point, Newport, Bullock's Point. Riverside, Silver Spring, &c. 

Railroads. — From Union Depot, for Boston, New York, &c. From India-St. 
station, for Warren and Bristol. From Gaspee-St. station for Pascoag. 

Narragansett Bay. 

steamboats leave Providence several times daily for the Bay resorts, Newport, 
and Block Island. Providence to Rocky Point and back, 40 cts. ; to Newport and 
back, 75 cts.; Newport to Rocky Point and back, 40 cts.; Providence to Conanicut 
Park, 40 cts. ; to Newport, 50 cts. j 7 boats daily to Rocky Point; 4 to Newport. 

Running down from Providence, the boat passes Sassafras Point on the 
W., with its lighthouse; Field's Point (E.), crowned by the old Fort In- 
dependence; Squantum Bluff, Ocean Cottage (E.), and Silver Spring, 
with Hiram Maxfield's famous clam-bake pavilion, many summer-cottages 
and diversified scenery. Off-shore are the Pomham Rocks, named for a 
brave Narragansett sachem whom the English killed in battle in 1676, and 
bearing a sturdy lighthouse. Cedar Grove (E. shore), 5 M. from Provi- 
dence, has an array of cottages, and summer amusements; and close beside 
it is the great E iverside Hotel, accommodating 200 guests. Farther down, 
on the shore, is the Elliott Hotel. Across the bay stands Pawtuxet, a 
quiet and lovely village, in front of which, on Fort Hill, near the site of 
a Revolutionary battery, is a group of pretty villas. Farther down, on 
the E., is Bullock's Point ( What-Cheer House), and on the W. is Gaspee 
Point, off which the British sloop-of-war Gaspee grounded, while pursuing 
an American vessel, in 1772, and was surprised, captured, and burnt the 
following night, by eight boat-loads of Providence men. S. of the point 
flows Turtle Cove, below which are Mark Rock, anciently known as " The 
Natchez of Rhode Island," and Conimicut Point, Avith its tall lighthouse. 

Nayatt Point {Nayatt-Point House) now opens, on the E., with its 
quiet villas and emparked grounds, once owned by Massasoit, and later 
by Miles Standish, On Rumstick Point stands a lighthouse. 

Beyond Nayatt the bay opens to treble its former width, and the steamer, 
passing on the VV. the River-View House (75 guests) and Long-Meadow 
House (100 guests), lands at Rocky Point, a rocky and wooded promon- 
tory midway between Providence and Newport, and crowned by a colossal 
dining-hall, famous for clam-bakes, with attendant arbors, menagerie, 
bowling-alleys, observatory, &c. ($ 8 - 15 a week). 1 M. below stands the 
gpacious Warwick-Neck House, with a noble water-view ; and farther W. 
are the Buttunwoods and Oakland Beach (see page 67). Farther down 
the bav is Prudence Ishnid. the Indian Chifxjctiicest, 6 M. lung, and con- 
taining many tine farms. Near Prudence are Patience. Hope, and De- 
spair Islands. On one side (off Bristol) is Hog Island, where the early 
settlers kept their swine, out of the reach of wolves and hears. Farther 
down is Conanicut (Conanicut-Park Hotel), an island 8 M. long, bought 
from the Indians in 1655, and in 1678 named in honor of King James, 



BLOCK ISLAND. Route 8. 65 6 

Jamestown, v/hich name it still retains. On its N. part is Conanicut Park, 
covering 500 acres, with avenues, sea views, the Captaln-Kidd house (200 
years old), and many summer-cottages. At its S. end is Beaver-Tail 
Light, the oldest in America (dating from 1GG7), near the ruins of an old 
British fort. On the E., near Newport, stands Fort Dumplincf, a pictu- 
resque ruin nearly a century old. Beautiful views arc afforded from the 
adjacent rounded and rocky hills, over the sea and across to Newport; 
and here are the costl\'- villas of Wm. T. Richards, Chas. Wharton, and 
other Philadelphia patricians. The steamer runs between Conanicut and 
Rhode Island, and passes under Fort Adams into the harbor of Newport 
(see page 40). 

Block Island. 

Hotels. — *Ocea7i-Vieio Hotel, 600 guests, $3.50-4 a day, .$12-35 a week. 
Piazzas, .^ M. long, electric bells, Schumauu Orchestra, theatre, spring-water, hot 
sea-baths, livery stable, couuected cottages; 7Vie Manisses, 200 guests, ^12-20 
a week ; Spring House, large and comfortable, with a valuable chalybeate spring; 
Norinlch House (•S6-10 a week); Highland House; United States; block- 
Island House; Narragansett ; Central; Fequot ; Betle Vieio ; JVeptune ; 
Union, &c. 

Steamboats leave Providence at 9 every summer morning, reaching Block 
Island at 3 p. M. The boat touches at Newport at 10.45, where it may be caught 
by the morning Old-Colony train from Boston. The Block Island leaves Norwich 
at 8 A.M., New London at 9.80, and Watch Hill at 11, and reaches Block Island at 
12.30 p. M. She returns at 2.30, arriving at AVatch Hill at 4 p.m., and New London 
at 5.30. Another steamer leaves Newport about noon, daily. 

Di.stances. — To Beacon Hill, 2i M.; Pilot Hill, IJ ; Salt Lake, li; Black Rock, 
5 ; Dickens Point, 5 ; the Cliffs, 2j ; Old Harbor Point, 1 ; Sachem's Pond, 4A. 

Block Island (see page 71) lies 15 M. out at sea, off the mouth of Narra- 
gansett Bay, midway between Point Judith and Montauk Point. Its brac- 
ing, ozonized air, grand ocean-views, singular and attractive scenery, and 
primitive tranquillity have sufficed to make here one of the chief Ameri- 
can summer-resorts. The thermometer rarely rises above 75"^ in this 
"Bermuda of the North." There is good bathing, in water less cold than 
on the more northerly beaches. Among the fish found in the adjacent 
waters are sea-trout, bluefish, black-bass, cod, and sword-fish, Edward 
Everett Hale characterized the place as our future Isle of Wight. 

Tourists visit the old burying-ground, the peat-bogs, the life-saving 
stations, the lighthouses, the windmills, the government breakwater, and 
the high bluffs and cliffs which rebuff the waves. The Great Salt Pond 
covers an area of 1,000 acres. 

The views from Beacon Hill (an almost complete circle of sea), Pilot 
Hill, Mohegan Bluffs, Bush Hill, and many other points, are full of 
grandeur. The island is traversed by several roads, giving attractive 
drives. Persons in search of rest, and a pecidiarly equable and tonic 
climate, and not desirous of excitement, find tliis locality beneficial. 

Peat is largely used here for fuel. The sea-weed thrown on the i.sland is 
worth .•}? 20,000 a year. 90 per cent of the inhabitants were born on the 
island, of native Block-Islanders. They are all Baptists. The little stone- 
walled farms, the rolling lulls, and the lily-strewn [jonds give inlerest to tlie 



66 Routes. WARREN. — BRISTOL. 

drives; while near the harbor are modern restaurants, shops, and a large 
skating-rink. Several of the islanders take summer-boarders, charging 
|1 6 - 10 a week. The adjacent waters are the scene of li. II. Dana's poem, 
"The Buccaneer," and of Whittier's poem, "The Palatine." Many visi- 
tors from the Southern and Western States make Block Island their sum- 
mer home; and statesmen, diplomats, society-leaders, and other prominent 
persons are found here every season. 

Providence to Warren and Bristol. 

Tlie Providence, Warren, and Bristol li. 11. leaves its station at Fox 
Point, crosses the Seekonk River, and passes the popular resorts on the E. 
shore. Stations, India Point, Boston Switch, V'ue de I'Eau, Drownville, 
Nayatt, Barrington and Warren. The latter town (Cole's Hotel, estab- 
lished in 1762) is a busy manufacturing place on the E. shore of Narra- 
gansett Bay. It is a nursery of sailors, and has a well-protected harbor. 
The Saclnem Massasoit had his favorite dwelling here on his territory of 
Sowamset, near a spring which is still called after his name. The Warren 
Veteran Artillei'y has two cannon which were made at Strasbourg in 1760, 
taken from the French at Montreal, surrendered with Burgoyne at Sara- 
toga, and used in the Dorr Rebellion (1842). A railroad runs from 
Warren to Fall River. 

The next station, 4 M. S. of Warren, is Bristol (a small hotel). Tliis 
town is a pleasant summer-resort, and is built on a high peninsula sloping 
to a deep, safe harbor. Three wide, grassy streets run down the penin- 
sula, — Water St., near the harbor ; Mahi St., with St. Michael's (Epis.) 
Church, and two or three old colonial mansions; and High St., with the 
common, the poor county buildings, and a fine Cong, church, in rambling 
mediaeval arcliitecture. From this broad and quiet street may be seen 
Mount Hope, where was "King Philip's seat" (Arnold), or "Philip's 
sty at Mount Hope " (Palfrey). 

King Pliilip, or Metacomet, was the son of Massasoit, and chief of the Wam- 
panoags. After enduring various aggressions from his white neighbors, in lOZl, 
thf Plymouth people demanded that nil the Indians should give up their arms, 
and Pinlii) dennirred at this. Then, travelling throughout New England, he 
formed a powerful anti-English league, and attacked the colonies in 1675. After a 
long war conducted with unexamiiled ferocity by both combatants, liis jiower 
was broken by the Narragansett Fort Fight, and the repulse from Taunton. 
Having dechnated the colonists and destroyed many of their fairest towns, 
he was hunted down and shot near the foot of Mount Hope, in midsunnner, 
1G7G. During the war 600 colonists were killed, and 12 towns were destroyed. 

In 16S0 the peninsula was bought from the Government by a company of Bos- 
ton capitalists, who divided it into lots, and sold the land to actual settlers. In 
Oct., 1775, three British frigates bombarded Bristol, and in 1778 a raiding party 
of British soldiers plundered this town and Warren. 

Fine yachts are made at Bristol, also cotton goods and refined sugars, while 
an immense ruhber manufactory does a business of 8 2,000,000 a year. 

Papasqua.sh Neck, between Bristol Harbor and Narragausett Bay, has many 
pleasant rural villas. 



WxVHWICK. — WJCKFOr.D. Route 8. C7 

Providence to New Haven and New York. 

After leaving Providence, the Shore Line route to New York (Eoute 8, 
continued) runs S., passing the stations Elniville, HiWs Grove, Apponaug, 
and Greemcich (Updike House, Greenwich Hotel). Greenwich is a neat 
village on Cowesit Bay, and is the seat of a large Methodist Seminary. 
In 1G41, a trading-post and inn were erected here on the great Southern 
road, or "Pequot Path." Its site is now occupied hy the Uj)dike House, 
into which many of its timbers are built. At this post the Mass. and 
"lymouth forces met before the Narragansett Fort Fight (1G75), and 

ither t]i3y retreated witli their wounded. 

Old "WarAvick; is a few miles distant, across Cowesit Bay. Samviel Gorton, 
a 1 lyinau who iutraded into tlie arena of theological polemics, was banished 
from Plymouth m 1037, from Newport in lo41, from Providence in 1642, from 
Craustoi) later in the same year, and tlien settled on Shawomet. In 1643, 40 
soldiei's from Bjstou came here, and took Goi'ton and 10 colonists to Boston, 
where they were tried and sentenced as " damnable heretics," and banished 
from America. The Earl of Warwick sent him back to yiiawomet (which he 
named Warwick), and under that nobleman's protection he spent the remainder 
of his life in launching anatliematic treatises at Massachusetts and R. I., among 
which were " Simplieitie's Defence against Seven-Headed Policy," "Antidote 
against Piiarasaic Teachers," &c. In 1652, the clerk of this unfortunate settle- 
n^icnt was disfranchised on seven charges : first, for calling the officers of tlie 
town rogues and tliieves ; second, for calling all the town rogues and thieves; 
third, for threatening to kill all the mares in town. In 1G76, the place Avas at- 
tacked and burnt. 

Nathaniel Greene Avas born at Warwick, in 1742. He led the R. I. brigade to 
Cambridge in 1775. commanded the left wing, and took the guns at Trenton, 
saved the army at the Battle of the Bi-anclj-Avine, and leil a brigade at German- 
town, Monmouth, and Newport. In 1780, he commanded the shattered Army of 
the South in its celebrated retreat across Soutlx and North Carolina into Virginia, 
and fought the drawn battle at Guilford C. H. In Aprd, 1781, he was badly de- 
feated by Lord Rawdon, at Hol)kirk's Hill, and Avas repulsed from Fort 96, but 
in September he won tlie sanguinary and decisive battle of EntaAV Springs, which 
ruined the British hopes in the South. Congress jiresented him with a medal, a 
Britisli standard, and two captured cannon, and the State of Georgia gave him a 
line iilantation near Savannah, where he resided until his death. 

Gens. Greene and Casey, of the Army of the Potomac, were born near here. 

i)aklan<l Beacli (hotel for lUO guests ; famous for clam-bakes) is a modern 
suumier-n\sort on Horse Neck, Greenwich Bay, reached by railroad from Warwick, 
or from Providence (open cars, f hour ; 40 cts. both ways). The R. T. militia ea- 
c imp here one week each summer. The Buttonwoods, W. of Oakland, has 
a ibie beach, 1 M. long, boating, bathing, fishing, fifty cottages, and a large hotel. 
P.>to\voniut Neck, across the bay, is a delightful region of farms and suaimer- 
viilas. The Warwick-Neck House (100 guests) is 1 M. from Rocky Point. 

Station "Wickford. The village {American ffoitse), a quaint and quiet 
o! 1 })lace, is on a broad bay, and is reached by a branch railroad in 2 J M. 
(connecting with a steamer to Newport daily). In the edge of the village 
is a curious square Episcopal church, which was built in 1706, and has 
been long deserted. 

Station Kingston. Tlie village (Kingston House) is on the heiglits, 2 
M. E. of the station, and contains the county buildings of Washington 
Co. 9 M. from the stati(-)n is the fashionalile sea- 

side resort at Narragansett Pier (branch railroad in 30 minutes). 



68 Routes. NAERAGANSETT PIER. 

Hotels. — * Toicer-Hilt House, a noble building on Narragansett Heights, 
which overlook the whole Bay, is 3 M. from the shore; Delavan House; Coii.ti- 
ncntal House ; Massasoit, 150 ; Metatoxtt; Sea View; Ehmvood Narragnn- 
sett ; MattliKWSon; Atlantic; Ativood ; lievtre ; Mount iff /yje, and others. Most 
of these hotels accouimodate 60 - 80 guests, aud charge JjJ 12 - 18 a week. The Tower 
Hill charges $2.50 a daj', ^ 10-15 a week (get o£f at Tower-Hill station). 

Music, Lectures, &c., in Canonchet Hall. Handsome Episcopal church of 
stone. Narragansett Pier P. 0. receives two mails daily. Steamers leave daily 
for Newport (10 M.), and Providence. K. 11. to Kingston, 5 trains each way. 

In 1856, a family from Pliiladelphia came here, and boarded at a farm- 
house near the beach. The next year they returned with some friends, 
and the farm was called the Narragansett Boarding-House. Summer 
visitors increased, until in 1867, the Atlantic (SO guests), the Atwood (175 
guests), and the Revere (50 guests) Houses were built. Other hotels 
v.-ere rapidly built, and in 1871, the Continental, Maxson, Mt. Hope, 
and Tower Hill Houses Avere finished. 

The Beach afibrds fine riding and bathing (light surf), and many fish 
are caught from the rocks. Narragansett is more quiet and unassuming 
than Newport. Below the Pier is a mass of rocks, beyond which stretches 
the long line of Wolcott's Beach. Indian Rock and Castle Rock are much 
visited; also Willow Dell, White Lake, and Little Comfort Beach. The 
famous mansion of the Sprague family is near the hotels. Every visitor 
should go to Narragansett Heights (3 M.), where the palatial Tower-Hill 
Hotel stands on its 800-acre plateau, near Silver Lake, 125 ft. above the 
Bay. The * view is fine, extending over Newport and 10-12 villages, and 
covering a horizon-line of 100 M. The Ocean, the Bay, Point Judith, and 
the lakes of S. Kingstown, are all visible. 4-6 M. W. of the Pier is 
Peacedale, with a fine stone church, and a large manufactory of woollen 
shawls. 

The road running S. "W. from Peacedale, through Wakefield, passes the remains 
of the old Potter Palace, and the birthplace of Commodore Perry. 

John Potter was a magnate of the middle of the ISth century, who built here 
-in Narragansett a line mansion, richly frescoed throughout, surrounded by gar- 
dens, and kept by 100 slaves, where he used to receive company in baronial 
style. 

At and before this time large Quaker settlements were scattered through the 
distrii^t, and three of their deserted churches still remain in this town. 

Oliver Hazard Perry was born in 1785, of an old aristocratic family of Narra- 
gansett. He served as a midshipman in the Tripolitan War, and was ])ut in com- 
mand of the squadron on Lake Erie, at whose heud, ^ei.t. 10, 1S13, he won a bril- 
liant victory, and captured the entii-e British Heet. He died of yellow fever, at 
Trinidad, in 18lfl. His brother, Commodore M. G. Perry, born at Newport, 17S14, 
was an active naval officer, chiefly distinguished for leading the Japan expedition 
in 1852-4, when he concluded an important treaty with that empire. 

Conunodore Perry's cousin, Stephen Champlin, Connnodore in the U. S. Navy, 
was born here in 178'.). He iired the first and last shots at the battle of Lahe 
Erie, where he comnimded the "Scorpion," in Perry's squadron. His services in 
the War of 1812 were important. . 

G. C. Stuart, tlie celebrated portrait-painter, was born in this town in 1754. 
]\Iost of the time from 1772 to 1708 he spent in London and Paris, and bent his 
studio at Bosron, 180!) - 2h. i£is |,'rtnnr,« ol WaslnDgnm ami other founders of 
tlie Republic are tiie best in existenci-, aud ^how .'•kiU of the highest order. 



* NARRAGANSETT FORT. Route 8, G9 

"Wanomachin was the Indian sachem of this region. 5 M. from tlie Pier, by a 
noble sea-side road, and beyond the fish-abounding Point-Judith Pond, is Point 
Jurtitli, named for Judith, wife of John Hull, wh(^ bought this land from the 
Indians in 1659. In 1777, H. M. S. Siiren, 28, was wrecked here, and her crew 
became prisoners. Point Juditli is the site of an important lighthouse. 

The legend runs, that far back in the colonial days, a storm-tossed vessel was 
driven in towards the Narragansett shore. The captain, an ancient mariner, was 
at the wheel, watchful amid the perils of an unknown coast, when his bright- 
eyed daughter, Judith, called out to him, " Land, father ! I see the land ! " His 
dim eyes could not discern the distant shore, and he shouted, "Where away? 
Point, J;idith, point!" She did point, and he changed his course, and left the 
surf-whitened caiie far away under lee ; and when he reached port, the story of 
the fearless girl pointing out the danger from the storm-swept deck was told often 
and again among the sailors, so that the old sea-captains, when they passed this 
cajie thereafter, repeated the story, and gave her name to the j)lace. 

During much of the year 1778, the Count D'Estaing's fleet of 16 vessels, with 
933 cannon, was stretched across tlie Bay from Point Judith, and maintained an 
efficient blockade of the British forces at Newport. Admiral Lord Howe attacked 
D'Estaing with a large squadron, and after an indecisive battle and a severe storm, 
both fleets were forced to leave the Bay and refit. 

This towii of S. Kingstown is the largest in the State, covering over 76 
square M. N. W. of Kingston, near the Exeter line, on a high, rocky 
hill, are the rnins of the Indian "Queen's Fort." Part of the stone-wall 
remains, also a rock-chamber called the Queen's Bedroom, where many 
arrows liave been found. 

On a hill in the great pine and cedar swamp near Worden's Pond (S. 
W. of Kingston) are the scanty remains of the Narragansett Fort 
(guide necessary, who can sometimes be obtained at the farm-houses on 
the edge of the swamj^). 

At the time of the landing of the Pilgrims, the Narragansett Indians, unwasted 
by pestilence, ruled the E. There were 30,000 souls in this nation (Brinley). or 
according to Roger Williams, "12 towns within 20 M., with 5,000 warriors." 
Gookin (1074) calls them an "active, lab(jrious, and ingenious people," and they 
were extensively engaged in trade and manufacture, supplying nearly all the New 
England tribes with pipes, pots, and wampum .jewelry and coin. Their territory 
stretched from Wickford nearly to Westerly, with its largest villages in the vicin- 
ity (favorable for fishing or agriculture) of the great ponds in S. Kingstown. In 
their simple theology they looked forward to some mystic realms in tiiefar S. W., 
where the gods and pure spirits dwelt, while the souls of murderers, thieves, and 
liars are doomed to wander abroad. They fought freciuently with the Mohegans 
and Pequots, but lived more peaceably with the Massachusetts, which was the 
name they (living in a flat country) applied to the dwellers at Neponset, Milton, 
and Canton. It is from Massa (many) and Waschoe (mountains), and means the 
])eo[)le of the many mountains ('he high blue hills of Milton). Canonicus and 
Miautonomoh ruled irom about IGOO to 1G43 ; the former being " a wise and peace- 
able prince" (Roger Williams), and the latter a "brave and magnanimous chief," 
who gave lands freely to the R. I. colonists. But the unvarying friendship be- 
tween the settlers and this great tribe was ended in 1G75, wlieuthe fiery eloquence 
and crafty subtlety of King Pliilip of the Wampanoags induced them to enter 
the anti-English confederation of tlie New Englaiid triV)es. The United Colonies 
took ijrompt action, and assejiibled 1,000 men under Gen. Winslow, on the verge 
of the trLl)al territory. Many of the Indians were campaigning with King Philip ; 
many fled to the N. W. ; and the rest abandoned their villages and took refuge in 
the ancient fortress of the tribe in the swamp near Worden's Pond. After a long 
march through the snow in Dec. , 1675, the colonial troops came in sight of tlie 
hill, covered with a system of embankments, palisades, and abatis, and defended 
by the flower of tlie Narragansetts. The iMassachusetts men, in the van, dashed 
into the Fort through au enfiladed enti'ance, and after a furious struggle, being 



70 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

unsupported, they were driven out with heavy loss. The whole force now having 
arrived, a double attack was made ; the troops of Connecticut stormed the gate, 
and, wliile tlie attention of tlie whole Indian garrison was centred on tliat point, 
the Plymouth companies broke tiirough the abatis and palisades on the other 
side, and attacked them in the rear. A bitter combat ensued, the Indians retir- 
ing to their wigwams and repulsing every attack of tiie colonials, who now held 
the walls. Fire was now applied to the wigwams, and spread rapidly, amid a 
scene of unutterable confusion and carnage. A band of chosen warriors dashed 
forth and cleared a way and covered the retreat of full 3,000 people, after which 
the colonials were left in full possession, having lost SO men killed and 150 
wounded. 300 warriors were killed, and 600 prisoners taken, of whom most of 
the fighting men were either shot on Boston Common, died on Deer Island, or 
were sold into slavery. The tribe was annihilated. Nearly all the colonial captains 
were shot, and a considerable proportion of the wounded, borne through a road- 
less country in midwinter, scores of miles to the settlements, died on the wa.\ 
home. 

"The bitter cold, the tarled swamp, the tedious march, the strong fort, the; 
numerous and stubborn enemy they contended with lor their God, King, and 
country, be their trophies over death." — Conn. Legislatui-e on "those dead in 
the Fort Fight in Narragansett." 

In 10 - 12 mill, after leaving King.ston Station, the train passes through 

the swamp where the battle took phace. The next station is Carolina, 

with large woollen mills, 3-4 M. S. of which is a reservation, with cliurcli 

and school-house, where lives the scanty remnant of tlie Narragansett 

tribe. Stations, Wood-River Junction, Niantic, Westerly (about 

6,500 inhabitants). In 16G5, a division of the Newport clmrch moved 

to Westerly, and, in 1671, embraced the tenets of the Seventh-Day 

Baptists, so if the traveller chances to be here on Saturday, he will 

find but little business going on, and the church bells ringing. Westerly 

is also noted for its extensive manufactures of flannels and cotton goods; 

and also for quarries of fine granite (800 workmen), for monumonts and 

public buildings. Many summer visitors stop at the elegant Dixon House, 

and avail themselves of the steamer which runs semi-daily down the Paw- 

catuck River to 

Watch Hill Point. 

Hotels. — * Ocean House, on a far-viewing hill; Watch Hill House, 30-40 
years old, the first hotel here ; Larkin House, near the hghthouse ; Atlantic 
House, Dickens, Bay View, and Plimptnn Houses. There is but little dillerence 
in these hotels, and the ]iriees are somewhat less than those at Nairagansett Tier. 

Steamers in sunnner run from Westerly to Watch Hill twice daily ; from 
Stoniiigton 4-5 times daily ; from New London, daily ; and from Norwich, toach- 
ing at "New London and Mystic, daily. 

Watch Hill Point, the S. W. extremity of R. I., is a high, bold promon- 
tory, from which the sandy Narragansett Beach runs E., while to the W. 
Napatree Beach, a narrow strip of sand, runs out to Sandy Point. From 
the top of the hill a good sea view is obtained, with Block Island to the 
S. E., Fisher's Island to the S, W., and the town of Stonington close at 
hand in the W. From its fine views, excellent bathing beaches, and (piiet 
and unpretentious hotels, this has become a favorite summer resort. 

In August, 1872, the passengei' steamer " Metis," bound from New 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 8. 71 

York to Providence, was rmi into by another vessel off this point. She 
sank in deep water, in the storm and night, and 25 or more of her passen- 
gers were lost. Most of the corpses, together with the deck of the vessel, 
were thrown up on Watch Hill Beach. 

After Westerly comes Stoiiington (the * Wadawanuck House is a large 
summer liotel, commanding a fine water-view. It accommodates 140 
guests, and charges $ 4. 50 a day ; large reduction for board by the 
season. There are one or two smaller houses here). 

Tliis district (Pawcatuck) was claimed by Mass. as hers in right of "joint con- 
quest," after the defeat of the Pequods, but was settled in 1(J49 from Coniierticut. 
Ill ISOl it became a borough, about which time President Dwight wrote that " Ston- 
ington and all its vicinity sutfers in religion from the nearness of R. I." Aug. 9, 
1814, the borough was attacked by the Ramilies, 74 ; the Pactoltis, 38 ; and 
several other British vessels, which 1)ombarded it for three days, throwing 60 tons 
of iron into it. Four attempts to laud were repulsed witli grapcsliot, with heavy 
loss, and the Dispatch, 22, was seriously injured and driven oft' by a3-guu battery 
on the point. The town was deserted by its people, and 50 soldiers were scattered 
through it to put out the fires. 

Stonington is built on a narrow, rocky point, with quiet streets, embel- 
lished here and there by iron relics of 1814. 

Steamers from Stonington to Watch Hill 6 times daily in summer (25c.). 

Tlie Stoiiiiigtoii Line of steamers (to New York) has fine boats which leave 
this port on tlie arrival of the steamboat train from Boston (9-10 P. M.), and 
arrive at New York early in t!;e morning. Tliis is one of the four great routes to 
New York, the others being the Fall River Steamboat Line, the Shore Line U. R., 
and the R. R. route via Springfield and Hartford. 

8 M. beyond Stonington, after passing Mystic (Hoxie House) and W. 
Mystic stations, the train readies No(mk, off which is Mystic Island 
{My Stic- Island House), a quiet summer-resort, with good boating, bathing 
and fishing, and fine sea-views, including the Conn, shore and 

Fisher's Island (several summer boarding-houses, at $8-10 a week), 
reached by semi-daily steamers from New London, 10 M., which was 
granted to Gov. John Winthrop in 16G8, and became " the Governour's 
farme of Fysher's Island." It remained in the Winthrop family until 
1868, when Robert R. Fox, a retired merchant of New York, bought the 
island, for a stock farm, remodelling the Old Winthrop mansion, near 
West Harbor, for a manor-house. Tliere are 30 - 40 summer-cottages near 
the shore, favored by cool breezes, good fishing, and singular scenerj' 
of sand dunes, emerald meadows, and fresh-water ponds. The island 
belongs to New York, and is 9 M. long, covering 8,000 acres. 

Block Island, named for Adrian Block, the Dutch discoverer, was called by 
the Indians ManLsees (the i.sle of the little god). The natives made the wampum 
for the interior tribes. In 1636, they captured a Boston ves.sel near the island, and 
killed the crew, shortly after which a Conn, coaster ran down on her, raking the 
decks with musketry. The coaster then towed her to sea, and, having removed her 
sails, let her go, in a fearful storm. Gov. Endicott campaigned on Block Island, 
and destroyed 2 villages. The island sent 60 ft. of wampum to Boston for tribute, 
in 1638, and in 1661 an English settlement was made here, and nearly destroyed by 
a raid from French vessels in 1690. 



72 Ro^de 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

Near Mystic, on the N., is Peqnot Hill, wliieli was attacked May 2Cth, 1637, by 
Mason, who had niarclied from Narragansett with 90 Englishmen, and 460 Mohe- 
gaus and Narragansetts, under the Sachems Uncas and Miantonomoh. On 
arriving before the Fort, tlie Indian allies were afraid to attack, and drew off, 
whereuxion the colonial soldiers prepared to do the work alone, and knelt down 
in prayer. (Tlie Saclieiu Wequash, the guide of the forces, was amazed at this 
siglit, and Avhen he understood it, he became inix)ressed and converted, and 
preached throughout New England until he sealed his faith by a glorious mar- 
tyrdom.) The English now moved steadily to the assault, and, favored liy the 
darkness, succeeded in getting inside th.e palisades, but they were soon over- 
Avhelmed by A^astly superior numbers, and fell back, alter setting fire to the wig- 
wams. "The greatness and violence of the lire, the flashing and I'oaring of the 
arms, the shrieks and yells of meti, women, and children within the Fort, and the 
shoutings of Indians without, just at the dawning of the morning, exhibilcd a 
grand and awful scene. The Narragansetts, Mohegans, and colonials surrounded 
the hiil and "shot down the fugitives. GOO IVquots were .shot or burnt on tliis 
dreadful ujorning, which was a death-blow to the tribe. "It was a fearful sight 
to s^e th'!m frying in tlie lire, and tlie streams of Idood quenching the same, and 
horrible was the stink and scent thereof; but tlic \ictory seemed a sweet sacri- 
fice, and they gave the praise thereof to God." Cotton Mather. 

4 M. from Peqnot Hill (half-way to New London) is Fort Hill, v.^here 
Sassacus, saclieiu of the Pequots, had his royal fortres.s. On heaving of 
the attack of Mason, the chief sent 300 of his best warriors, who caused 
the Indo-colonial forces great loss in their retreat. But meanwhile those 
■who had remained iu the fort revolted, and Sassacns, with his court and 
chiefs, was forced to flee to the Hudson Piiver, whence they never 
returned, and the tribal organization was blotted out by the colonies, who 
gave for slaves to the friendly tribes those remaining of the dreaded 
Pequots or '-Destroyers." * There is a noble view from Fort Hill (4 M, 
E. of New London) which embraces parts of 15 towns, 4 counties, 3 
States, 20 islands, 7 lighthonses, with New London, Stonington, Fort 
Griswold, and Fisher's Island Sound. 

Groton is a very hilly tow^nship, and has but little good soil (in the 
river valley). In 1832, 40 Pequots were living here on a reservation, and 
still heartily hating the Narragansetts. Silas Deane, an early American 
diplomatist, who died in poverty and sorrow in a strange land, after hav- 
ing made successful negotiations with France, kc, was a native of Gro- 
ton. Between 1812 and 1819, 500,000 yards of cotton cloth were woven 
at home by w^omen with hand-looms. 

Mystic Island, a quiet summer resort, is off the month of the river. 

After passing the station of Groton, the cars are ferried across tlie 
Tliamos River to New Loridon (* Crocker House). Above fhe city, at 
Winthrop Point, a II. \\. bridge is being built across the Thames. 

Now London is a city of 12,000 inhabitants, on a granite-strewn declivity 

facing S. E., on a fine harbor, 3 M. long and 30 ft. deep. 

This was forniei-ly known as Pequot Harbor, and was raided successively by 
Mason, Endicott, and Underhill, and was settled by John Winthrop, Jr., in IGto. 
In 1G58 the Couuecticut Assembly resolved, " Whereas, this court considering 

• One authority s.ays that Pequots means " Gray Foxea." 



BOSTON TO NEW YOEK. Route 8. 73 

that there hath yet no place in any of the colonies been named in honor of the 
city of London, tliere being a new place, within this jurisdiction of Connecticut 
settled upon that fair river Mohegan in the Pequot country, behig an excellent 
liarbor, and a fit and convenient place for future trade, it being also the only place 
in these parts which the English jjossessed by conquest, and tliat upon a very 
just war, upon that great and warlike people, the Pequots, we, therefore, that we 
might thereby leave to posterity that we memory of that renowned city of Lon- 
don, from whence we had our transportation, have tliought fit, in honor to that 
famous city, to call the said plantation, New London." In 1G98, the pirate Capt. 
Kidd cruised along these shores, and buried on Gardinei-'s Island 75 ounces of 
gold, G33 ounces of silver, and a large lot of precious stones, which were recov- 
ered l)y the Earl of Bellomont, governor at Boston, in 1G99. During the Revolu- 
tion, the navy of Conn., consisting of 2G vessels, made New London Its chief 
]iort ; and here, in 1776, were landed the governor, officers, and plunder from New 
rrovi(k'nce (of the Bahamas), which had been ca]itured by an American fleet. 
>Sept. 5, 1781, the renegade riider Benedict Arnold appeared oft" tlie town with a 
fleet and a large force of British troops, and having taken Fort Trumbull lie 
plundered and burnt New London. At the same time a strong detachment made 
an attack on Fort Griswold (across the river), which was defended Ijy Col. Led- 
yard with 150 militia-men. The sliarp fire of the Americans repulsed the first at- 
tack, but a bayonet-charge ensued, which carried the enemy into the fort. The 
Ih-itish commander was killed on tJie rampart, and the Toiy Capt. Bloomfiekl 
(from New Jersey) took his place. As he shouted, " Who commands this Fort? " 
Col. Ledyard gave him his svv'ord, saying, " I did command, sir ; but you do 
now." The infamous renegade ran Ledyard through with his own sword, where- 
upon a general massacre ensued, and 70 Americans were killed and 30 wounded 
atter the surrender. In storming the Fort the British lost 191 men. 

An excursion should be made to Groton heights, where are the remains 
of old Fort Griswold, near which is a bnsiness-like 20-gun battery, in ad- 
mirable order, which protects the channel. Within stone's-tlirow of the 
fading ramparts of tlie old Fort is a Monument to the massacred militia, 
— a noble granite shaft, 134 ft. liigli, and 2(5 ft. square at the base, on 
which was inscribed, "Zcbulon andNajjhthali were a people that jeoparded 
tlieir lives till death in tlie high places of tlie Lord." A marble tablet at 
the base contains the names of the slain, wliicli will be seen to run in 
families ; out of 84 names, 9 are Averys, 6 Perkinses, 4 Allyns, 4 Lesters, 
kc. The ascent of the inside of the monnment should be made (key, 10 
c. at small house close to the monimient). From the top a * view is 
gained which is ''charming for the student of nature and yet more charm- 
ing for the student of the romance of American history." — LossiNG. To 
the W. is New London, with its sj^ires and terraced streets, its shipping, 
Fort Trumbull's massive walls, and up the river the widenings of the 
Thames where the U. S. has prepared a Navy Yard. On the E. are the 
stony hills of Groton, with Fort Hill 4 M. aAvay ; and on the S. the mouth 
of the Thames with its lighthouses, hotels, and summer-cottages. The 
long, irregular line of Fisher's Island (9 M. long), belonging to New York 
and occupied by three farms, is in the S. E. over which the ocean is seen, 
and, if the day is clear. Block Island may be made out Avith a strong 
glass. Many leagues to the S. E. over the W. end of Fisher's Island, 
may be seen the white cliffs of Montauk Point. 

A steam-ferry (4 c.) leaves the foot of State St. every 15 min. for Gro- 
4 



74 Route S. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

ton. ^ M. E. of the old Fort, Col. Ledyard is buried under a monument 
erected by the State. 

New London is built on a declivity, which is ascended by State St. from 
the R. R. Station to the County Court House, passing on the r. the brown- 
stone City Hall and Post Office, and a fine Cong. Church of granite with 
a spire of the same material. Near tlie Court House is Sj;. James' Epis- 
copal Church, a large brown-stone edifice in wliose chancel is buried 
Samuel Seabury, the first Anglican bishop in the Republic. The Englisli 
bishops (in 17S4) would not consecrate him, but tlie office was performed 
by 3 bishops of the Scottish Episcopal Church, after which he preached 
at New London for 12 years. On Federal St. in a lofty situation is a 
massive and extensive Cong. Church, near which is an ancient cemetery 
which overlooks the harbor. The lofty towered new school-house on the 
hill, and the spacious Catholic Church on Huntington 

St. are fine buildings. 1 M. N. is Cedar Grove Cemetery. Bank St. is 
tlie main business avenue of the city. Fort Trumbull is a massive and 
powerful granite fortress Avith a heavy armament, but built too near the 
city to keep it unscathed. The high j^oints of land in the city command 
beautiful water and landscape views, including the estuary of the Thames, 
tlie Sound, and the adjacent hilly country. The costly granite wharf of 
the N. L. N. R. R. is said to be the finest in the country ; and the har- 
bor is always free from ice. New London is famous for its noble elms, 
anticjue mansions, and picturesque hill-streets. There are fine villas on the 
Harbor road, and at Goshen, a patrician summer-colony, 1^ M. from the 
Requot House, amid admirable English scenery. Ospfey Beach, famous 
for its clam-bakes, is near the lighthouse. Daily stages, 14 M. to Salem, 
over a picturesque road. The State military camp is at Atlantic. 

The Harbor road leads by Fort Trumbull, and through a line of cot- 
tages, in 3 - 4 M. to the mouth of the Thames, near which is the * Pequot 
House, a costly and exclusive aristocratic resort, which accommodates 
about 500 guests ($4.50 a day), with cottages and pleasant drives, and 
beautiful views over the Sound. Steamboats run frequently to the city. 
On the opposite side of the Thames is the quieter and less expensive 
Edgecomb House. 

Steamers run twice daily (in summer) to Watch Hill Point. Aline runs also to 
Sag Harbor, Long Island. Two steamers leave daily for New York (distance 12(J 
M.) bv the Norwich Line. 

The New London Northern Division of the Vermont Central R. R. runs N. W. 
from tliis city to Palmer, Amherst, and the State of Vermont. 

After leaving New London the Shore Line R. R. passes Waterford 
(Niantic Hotel,) and E. Lyme, where at the village of Niantic (Howard 
House), on the bay of the same name, are fomid fishing and boating ad- 
vantages. This territory, from the Thames to the Connecticut, was 
formerly held by the Niantic Indians, a clan of the Narragansetts, who 
under their sachem, Ninigret (brother of Canouicus, and uncle of Mian- 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route S. 75 

toiiomoli) conquered tlie Long Island Indians. The colonies declared 

war against Ninigret twice, on absurd pretexts, but lie escaped Avitliout 

fighting, though his territories were ravaged, and in King riiilip's War 

ke kept his people from attacking the English. Lyme (* Pierrepont 

House, a new suninier-hotel) is a venerable old handet, buried in foliage, 

about 1 M. inland from the station. The main street is 1^ M. long, lined 

with old ti'ees and historic n)ansions, with two churches and an academy ; 

and Black IIoll, the mansion of the patrician Griswolds, is 3 M. distant. 

N. of Old Lyme is a picturesque hill-country, in which is Roger's Lake, 

2 M. long, with ancient homesteads on the adjacent heights. Lyme was 

first settled in 16G4 ; and Cluef Justice Waite was born here, in 1816. 

Beyond Lyme the train crosses the Connecticut River on a long bridge, 

and stoics at Saybrook, whence trains on the Conn. Valley R. R. run S. 

to Saybrook Point and the shore. 

On Saybrook Point a fort Wcis built by Plymouth in 1335, and well armed, 
several of the cannon remaining here in ISOO. In 1G3-3 Col. Femvifk came here to 
rule the plantation, Vv'liich v/as named in honor of Lord Say and Sele, and Lord 
Erook. In 1G37 the Pequots nmbushed and destroyed a detaclnnei't near the 
fort, and attempted to carry tlie works by a isanlfc, but were received with such 
discharges of grapesliot that they gave it up, and, capturing several vessels 
above the Point, put their crews to death with horrible tortures. Lady Fenwick 
died in 1648, and her husband sold the territory to Conn., returned to England, 
and v/as one of the regicide judges. The fort eSfectually prevented Dutch vessels 
from ascending to reinforce Hartford, and in 1G75 forced Andres's fleet to lie out- 
side of the river. Springfield vessels refused to pay the toll demanded at the 
Fort, and appealed to Mass., which i)ut a toll on all Conn, vessels entering Boston 
Harbor, and soon enforced a colonial reciprocity. In 1701 Yale College was 
chartered and located at Saybrook, and remained there 1707-17, where it held its 
first 15 commencements. It then occupied a one-story building SO ft. long on the 
peninsula near the Fort. The celebrateil Saybrook Platform was drav/n up here 
in 1708, because "the chiurhes must have a x'ublic profession of faith agreeable 
to which the instruction of the college shall be conducted." On Good Friday, 
181 1, 100 British sailors, in the boats of the " La Hogue," 74, took the Fort and 
ascended the riA-er 20 ]\I. destroying 27 vessels. The commander of this raid was 
Sir Willi.am E. Parry, afterwards famous for his Arctic voyages. "The steep, 
solitary hill near the river," on which still stood the remains of the Fort, was cut 
away by the railroad in 1871 - 2, to r.iai-e embankments with. It is fortunate that 
the Acropolis and the temiilcs of Caalbec are not in America. 

In the cemetery at Saybrook Point is tlie transplanted monument of 
Lady Fenwick, and 1 ^t - 2 M. beyond i; the quiet, elm-shaded, and wealthy 
village of Old Saybrook. 

The railroad now runs across a v.'ide cove, and stops close to * Fenwick 
Hall, an elegant hotel, accommodating S90 guests. 

A stony strand leads to Lynde's Point on the E. at the mouth of the 
river, with its lighthouse. On the W., near Cornfield Point, is a small 
bathing-beach. Several fine cottages are near Fenwick Hall, from which 
the Long Island shore is seen. In seasons of long adverse winds, a fleet 
of 150-200 sail somdlimes collects in the mouth of the river. 

Steamers running between Uartford and tlie river villages and New York, New 
London, and Sag Harbor touch at Saybrook Point. 
The Connecticut Valley R. R. runs Vrom Saybrook Point to Hartford (Route 14), 



76 F,oute8. GUILFOED. — BRANFORD. 

After Saybvook, the Shore Line R. R. passes WesihrooJ: (Westbrook 
Hotel) and CUnton (Clinton House), whence daily sta^-es run G M. N. W. 
to the pretty and secluded village of Killingworth (Stevens House) 
where Asaliel Nettleton, the evangelist, was born in 1783. Tlie Indian 
name of this place was Hamnionasset, but the settlers changed it to Kenil- 
worth, which was registered, by accident, Killingworth. The pastor of 
this parish was chosen first President of Yale College, but as he refused 
to go to Saybrook, the students were obliged to come to him, and so the 
college was practically here, 1701 - 7, tliough holding its commencements 
at Saybrook. Longfellow's poem, "The Birds of Killingworth," will be 
remembered here. Stations, Madison (Hammonasset House), E. River, 
and Guilford. Guilibrd (Guilford House) was settled by 4 inimigrants 
from Kent and Surrey in 1639, on the Indian tract called Menuncatuck. 
They Avere led by their pastor, Henry \Vhitefield,"a man of marvellous 
majesty and sanctity." The regicides were hidden here for some time, 
and in 1781 3 frigates landed a force near the village, but the rapidly 
gathering militia drove them off. During the extermination of the 
Pequots, in 1G37, the Mohegan Sachem Uucas pursued a Pequot chief to 
this point, and having shot him on the shore, put his head in the fork of 
an oak-tree, where it stayed many years, and the point is still called 
Sachem's Head. 

Fitz Green Halleck, the versatile poet, was born at Guilford in 1790, and in his 
later years retired h.ere and lived on a handsome iiensiou allowed him by the As- 
tor3, of New York. He died in 1SG7. 

W. H. li. Muiray, the popuhir imlitit orator, was Lorn at Guilford in 1840. 

The village is a very pretty one, built around an extensive tree-studded 
and enclosed green, on which 5 churches front. 

Near the village on the S. is Guilford Point (Pavilion, Guilford Point 
House, kc. ), and across the harbor is the bold and pictxiresque promontory 
of Sachem's Head, where formerly stood a large hotel. 

Station, Stoni/ Creek (Stony Creek, Brainerd, Thimble Island, and In- 
dian Point Houses, all small and inexpensive), famed for its large and 
delicious oysters. The romantic group of the Tliimble Islands lies off 
shore here, and may be reached by boat from the Indian Point Hotel 
(2j- 50 c. ). On Money and Pot Islands are small and primitive hotels, Avitli 
cabins and cottages, while around and betAveen these rocky and wooded 
islets rowing and sailing is full of pleasant surprises. Money Island Avas 
one of the rover Capt. Kidd's resorts, and it has been dug all over by 
treasure-seekers. 

Station, Branford, (Branford House , on land ,sold by the Sachem 
of Quinnipiac to the English in 1638, he being glad to get an ally against 
the dreaded MohaAvks. It Avas named from Brentford, where Edmund 
Ironside fought the Danes. The shore hereabouts is lined with sum- 




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BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route S. 77 

mei' hotels, — the Montana, Sea View, Totocket, Pine Orchard, &c. Ou 
Indian Neck are the Indian Neck and Montowese (200 guests) Houses, 
both about 2 M, from Branford station. At the head of "the rocky- 
sliored aiid island-sprinkled bay of Branford " is the large * Branford 
Point House (160-200 guests), distant 8 M. from New Haven, and near 
by is the favorite Double Beach House (100 guests, $3-3.50 a day). 

In 1665, the colonies of Plartford and New Haven were united by royal 
order and the common consent. The people of Branford had steadily 
opposed this union, and when it was consunmiated, they moved in a solid 
body, headed by their pastor, and bearing all their household goods, to 
Newark, N. J., and the site of Branford was silent and deserted for 
years. 

Station, E. Haven, an ancient resort of the Indians (for oysters, &c. ), 
and the seat of iron-works in 1655, now has large cop2Jer-smelting works. 
The train now passes Saltonstall Lake, crosses the Quiimipiac River, runs 
through Fairhavcn, and enters 

l^ew Haven. 

Hotels. * New Haven House, corner College and Chapel Sts., opposite the 
College, .'i!!4-4.50 a day; * Tontine Hotel, corner Cliureli and Court Sts., a quiet 
old house fronting the Green, i$'i a day ; Treniont House ; Elliott 

House. 

Clarriages. The regular tarift' is 50 e. lor one i)assenger for one course in the 
ciiv, or lor Uvo passengers 35 e. each. 

Horse-Car 3 (head-quarters at the foot of tlie Green) run to Fairhaven and 
E. Haven, to W. Chapel St., to Westville and Vv'. RocU, to CeutreviUe, to E. 
Rociv, and in suunner to W. Haven and Savin Rock. The longer routes are to 
NewhfillVille,, AVhitncyville, and Ced;ir Hill, and other pleasant rural suburbs. 
Froni Oliaiicl St. to the Union Depot. 

lieading-Koonis. In the hotels, and at the Young Men's Institute, Phaniix 
Building, Cnaiiel Si. Also at the Young Men's Christian Association rooms, over 
the Palladium Building. 

Airmsemeiits. Popnlar lectiiro.*, theatrical entertainments, concerts, &c. 
are frequently held in Carll Opera Houfg (accommodating 2,500 persons). Also i a 
Harmnnv Hall, and Loomis's Temple of Music, Orange and Centre Sts. 

Ilailroads. At this point converge tlie New Haven, New London, and Ston- 
ington R. R. (see pi'eceling pages) ; the New Haven, Middletown, and Willinian- 
t c (Air Line route, Boston to New York) ; the New Haven, Hartford, and Spring- 
held R. R. (grand route from Boston to New Y(n-k, via Springfield) ; the New Haven 
and Northami)ton (Canal) R. R. ; the New Ha\-en and Derby R. R. ; and the 
New York and New Haven R. R., which is the last division of all three of the 
land routes from Boston (see sm^ceeding jiages). 

Steamboats. Steamers leave for New York twice daily (morning and even- 
ing) making the voyage in 5 hours. Fare $ 1, dinner and state-rooms extra. Tlie 
Citizens' Line runs boats to New York every morning. . Steamers run (in sununcr, 
4 times daily) to the beaches at the mouth of the harbor. 

Stages run from New Haven to Hartlbrd via DurJiam, to North Branford and 
Deep River, &c. Daily at 2 R M. for Westville, Woodbridge, and Seymour, also 
to Milford and Mt. Carmel At 8 A. M. daily to Seymour, Oxford, Southbury, 
and Woodbury. To Centreville semi-daily ; to Kasthaven 4 times daily ; to N. 
Branfoid, N. GuiliV))-d, N. Madisnu, Killingwortli, and \Vint!irn]i, 'J'ues. iind Fri., 
8 A. M. ; to Watcrbury and Naugatuck, Tues., Tliurs., and Sat., iO A. M. ; to Guil- 
ford, Thurs. 8 A. M. ; to S. Britain, Wed., 7 A. M. ; to Woodbridge and Ansonia. 



78 Routes. NEW HAVEN. 

^ John Davenport (of Magdalen College), a powerful parish pastor of London, 
joined tlie Puritan wing of tlie Anglican Clnirch, and in 1G37 was forced to leave 
England, with many of his jieojile. After nearly a year's sojourn at Boston, he 
set sail with his people, and landed at Quinnipiac, the present site of New Haven, 
in April, 1638. His was " the most opulent colony which came into New Eng- 
land," and they laid out a city with 9 squares for buildings enclosing a large cen- 
tral square (the Green), though their houses only occupied then a small space on 
the present George St., between Church and College Sts. The colony was gov- 
erned for many years by its 7 most prominent church-members, after a curious 
find impressive sennon by Davenport from the text, " Wisdom hath builded her 
house ; she hath hewn out her 7 pillars." One of the cliief of these was the 
pure and learned Davenjjort, who was revered by the Indians as " so big study 
man." 

la looS the 7 pillars bought of the Indians 130 square M. of land for 13 coats, 
and in lt)39 the truculent Nepaupuck was tried for murder and beheaded on the 
(ircen, where his liead was long exposed. The trading-posts o' New Haven on 
the Delaware River were broken up by the Swedes, and other losses combined 
to discourage tlie settlers, who resolved to go to Jamaica, and then completed 
negotiations to buy Galloway, in Ireland. The ship Avhich bore their "commer- 
cial estates," sailed under Capt. Laml)erton for Galloway, in Jan., 1647, but never 
was heard from afterwards, save when, as the legend says, the spec^tre of the sliip 
sailed into the harb(jr in the teeth of a head-wind, and when in full view of the 
anxious people, it slowly melted into thin air, and vanished. The colonists 
remained at New Haven, and in 1665 this jilantation was united with that of Con- 
necticut (Hartford) on condition that cacli town should retain the dignity of cap- 
ital ; and until 1874 the State had two semi-capitals. In 1755, the " Conn. Gazette " 
was established here, and became the pioneer of the 8 weekly and semiweekly, 
and the 3 daily papers of New Haven. In Jan., 1761, 7 companies of militia and 
the council convened, and proclaimed George III. King, drinking to him, the 
royal family, and the King of Prussia. In 1775, Benedict Arnold (afterAvards so 
famous and infamous) led to Cambridge the Governor's Guards, the best conqiany 
in the army. At sunrise, July 5th, 1779, 1,500-2,000 Hessians and Tories were 
landed at W. Haven Point, from 48 British vessels. They took the fort and 
town, wliich they plundered and partially burnt. Tliey were much galled by the 
militia who hovered on their flanks and fought them in the streets. Rev. Dr. 
Napthali Daggett, President of Yale College, was captured by them with fowling- 
piece in hand, and forced to guide their columns. When wcUnigh dcnd Irom 
mortification, and sore from repeated bayonet-wounds, he was asked, "Will you 
light again?" Tlie nulitant divine answered, "I rather believe I shall, if I have 
an opiiortunity." He or another pastor of the town was forced to pray for the 
King, wliicli he did as follows: "O Lord, bless thy servant King George, and 
grant him wisdom, for thou knowest, O Lord, he needs it." Yale College was 
transferred to New Haven in 1717. In 1820 the town had 8,326 inliabitants ; in 
1880, 62,882. 

New Haven, ''The City of Elms," the seat of Yale College, is built on 
a flat alluvial plain, at the head of a bay which sets in from Long Island 
Sound. It is a handsome city, of modern appearance, rich in stately elm- 
trees, and surrounded by pictiiresque hills. The city has a large West 
India trade, and has about $ 10,000,000 invested in manxifactures, which 
in 1869 turned out 6,000 hay-cutters, 50,000 scales, 200,000 corsets, 1,200 
Eureka organs, 600 Colibri pianos, and about 20 carriages daily. Fish- 
lines, saws, Baumgarten church-organs, and cars are also made in great 
numbers, while Sargerit & Co. employ 800 men in vast hardware works. 
Chapel, State, and Church are the principal streets, the two former in- 
tersecting near the cavernous city market. There are several handsome 
churches here, and a very interesting old cemetery (on Grove St., at the 
head of High)- 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. RgiUc S. 7D 

Among those buried here are Jehmli Aslimun, agent, fortifier, and defender nf 
Liberia; Ai'thur Tappan, the philantliropist ; Hany Crosswell, D. D., daslung 
political editor, 1802-14, and rector of Trinity Cliurch, NeAv Haven, 1815-58 ; N. 
W. Taylor, D. D., a disciple of Edwards and proiessor of didactic theology in 
Yale, 1823-58 ; Lyman Beeehcr, D. D., "the most widely known and influential 
preacher in the country, between 1815 and 1851 " ; Timothy Uwight, D. D., grand- 
son of Jonathan Edwards, a distingriislied tlieologian and poet, and President of 
Yale, 1795-1817, who rode horseback through New England and N. Y. and pub- 
lished an account of it in 4 volumes, also a system of theology in 5 volumes ; Den- 
ison Olmsted, LL. D., professor of natural philosophy and astronomy at Yale, 
1825-59, and a jTof'^^^nd .astronomer; C. A. Goodrich, D. D., theologian and 
lexicographer, professor of rhetoric at Yale, 1817-39; Noah Webster, LL. D., 
author and publicist, whose " Elementary Spelling-Book " had a sale of 50,000,000 
copies, and who prepared (1807 -28) and iiublished a Dictionary of the English 
language which has since been the standard ; Benjamin iSilliman, |»rofessor of 
chemistry at Yale, 1802-55, one of the loremost scientists of his time ; Jedediah 
Morse, D. D., "the father of American geography"; 8. F. B. Morse (born 1791, 
died 1872), who, in 1844, put in opcratiim the first electric telegraph in the U. S , 
who was covered v.'ith honors by European sovereigns and societies, and in 1857, 
was presented with 400,000 francs liv a continental assembly at Paris ; Elbridixe 
Gerry, Vice-President of the U. S., 1812-16 ; R. S. Skinner, Gov. of Conn., 1844- 
G, and U. S. Senator, 1847 - 51 ; David Daggett, sometime Cliief Justice, and U. S. 
Senator, 1813-19 ; S. W. S. Dutton, D. U., and Gov. Henry Dutton ; Prof. Mur- 
dock and Sidney E. Morse ; James IlilUiouse, U. S. Senator, 1794-1810, and James 
A. Hillhouse, the poet of Sachem's Wood ; Andrew H. Foote, Rear-admiral U. S. 
NaA'y, bom in New Haven, 1806, died 1863. He fought the West India and 
Sumatra pirates, and in 1856 attacked the 4 Banner-Forts at Canton, China, with 
the "Portsmouth" and "Levant." After a bombardment, at the head of 280 
men, he landed and stormed the forts in succession, though they were hea\Tr 
granite works, mounting 176 cannon, and defended by 5,000 men. In 1862 (Feb. - 
April) in a short, sharp campaign at the head of tlie iron-clad squadron on the 
Tennessee and Mississippi Rivers, he assisted in the reduction of P'orts Henry, 
Donelson, and Island No. 10. He was a veiy religious man, and was accustomed 
to preach to his sailors every Sunday. 

Jonathan Knight, professor of surgeiy at Yale, 1838-64; James L. Kingsley, 
pro essor of Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, at Yale, 1805 - 51 ; David Humphreys, 
the aid-de-camp and friend of Washington, and minister to Portugal and Spain, 
1790-1802 ; Theophilus Eaton, Gov. of the New Haven colony, 1638-57 ; Roger 
Sherman, from 1774 to 1793 a meml)er of the Continental Congress, and a signer 
of the Declaration of Independence, who "never said a oolish thing in his life" 
(Jefferson) ; Theodore Winthrop, the knightly soldier (author of " Cecil Dreeme," 
" Canoe and Saddle," &c.), who was killed at the battle of Great Bethel, June 10, 
1861 ; Ezra Stiles, long President of Yale ; and Eli Whitney, the inventor of the 
cotton-gin. 

Among the broad streets liuefl Avitli noble elms which extend on the N. 
and W. of the Green, the most beantiful is Hillhouse Ave., a broad, 
park-like drive, Hanked by fine mansions, at the head of which is the man- 
sion and domain, " Sachem's Wood," belonging to the Hillhouses. In 
tlie W. parL of the city is the Orphan Asylum, Alms House, and County 
Prison. But the chief interest of New Haven centres in and about tlie 
Public Green. Here, on Church St. is the City Hall, one of the most 
elegant municipal buildings in New England, and the Tliird Cong, Church. 
On Chapel St. is the stately granite building of the Am. Life & Trust 
Co. The Public Green itself is a great lawn, studded with tine 
trees, and often used for parades. The North, Centre, and Trinity 
churches stand in line near the middle of the Green (the first two are 
Cong., and the last is Episcopal), and preserve a curiously ancient appear- 



80 Routes. YALE COLLEGE. 

ance. Back of the Centre Church is the monument to the regicide, John 
Dixwell, a member of a prominent Kentish family, a colonel in the Par- 
liamentary army, and a member of the British State Council, who fled to 
New Haven at the Restoration. Near him is buried a fellow-judge, 
Edward Wlialley. Near Temple St. is the ancient and dilapidated 
classic building of the Old State House, wherein the sessions of the 
legislature were held on alternate years, until the recent decapitalization 
of New Haven. College St., with a glorious Gothic arch of ehu-trccs, 
separates the Green from the grounds of 

Yale College. 

In the year 1700 ten olergj'men I'lainied to erect a college in the colony of 
Conn., and to further that end, contributed as many books as tliey could spare, 
for its library. In 1701, it was chartered, and its classes recited at Killingwortli 
luitil 1707, when it removed to Saybrook Poiiit, and in 1717 a final remove (it is 
liopL'd) was made to New Haven. At an e;irly date the college was named in 
honor of ElUm Yale (born at New Haven in 1648), Gov. of Madras, and afterwards 
Gov. of the East India Corapanv, who gave £400 towards its support. The 
Presidents of Yale : Timothy Dwigiit, Ezra Stiles, Theodore D. Woolsey (1846-71), 
and others, will compare favoralily with the corresi:ondiiig othcers of Harvard. 
After the secularization of Harvard University, the Orthodox churchmen rallied 
on Yale. This college has done a noble work of education, and especially in 
shaping and strengthening those minds of Conn, which have been so busy and 
honored througliout the Republic. 

Said L'e Tocqueville in a Fourth of July dinner at Taris : " Von day I vas in the 
gallery of the House of Representatives. I held in my hand a map of the Con- 
federation. Dere vas one leetle yellow spot called Connect-de-cofit. I found 
by de Constitution he Avas entitled to six of his boys to represent him on dat 
floor. But wlien I make the acquaintance personelle with the member, I find 
dat more than tirty (80) of the Representative on dat floor was born in Connect- 
de-coot. And den ven I vas in de gallery of the House of th.e Senate, I find de 
Constitution permit (lis State to send two of his boys to represent him in dat 
legislature. But once more, ven I make de acquaintance personelle of the 
Senator, I find nine of the Senator was born in Connect-de-Coot. 

••And now for my grand sentiment — Connect-de-Coot, the leetle yellow spot 
dat make de clock-])edler, the schoolmaster, and the Senator ; de first give you 
time, the second tell you what to do with him, and de third make j'our law and 
civilization." 

The line of ancient buildings fronting on College St. includes South 
C(>lle<je,, built in 1793-4, now the most popular of the dormitories ; the 
Athenceum, built in 1763 for chapel and liln'ary, now used for Freshman 
recitation-rooms ; Sojith Middle College, Iniilt in 1751 with moneys 
raised by lottery and from a French prize captured by a Conn, frigate, 
and then named Connecticut Hall ; 

tlie Xorth Middle College, built in 1803 ; the Old Chapel, built 
in 1824 ; and Xorth College, built in 1822. These buildings are used 
mostly for dormitories and recitation rooms, and are each 4 stories high, 
with 2 entries, each of xrhich gives access to 16 rooms. Farnam Hall, 
(built in 1870) is a handsoma brick donnitory N. E. of this line, nearer 
College St., accommodating 89 students. Dvrfee Hall (built in 1871) is 
on the Elm-St. side, and is a picturesque sandstone building, 4 stories 
hidi. The angle betAveen Farnam and Durfee is occupied by the new 



YALE COLLEGE. Route 8. 81 

Chapel, a cruciform sandstone building (seating 1,150 persons), with an 
ornamental rounded apse and two small towers. 

Back of the ancient halls are three small buildings, of which that nearest 
Durfee Hall was built for the Trumbull paintings, and is now occupied by 
the President's and Treasurer's offices. The next is the Caimei, containing 
the students' reading-room, &c. ; and the third is XXio, Laboratory, built 
in 1782 and interesting as the scene of the labors of the elder Sillinian. 
Jitst bej'ond, near Chapel St., is a l)ronze statue (by Launt Thompson, in 
1874) of Abraham Pierson, a noble old Puritan scholar, the lirst Eector 
of Yale College. 

The * Art School is near the Pierson statue, at the corner of Cliapel 
and High Sts., and is a handsome H-shaped building of sandstone, which 
cost $ 200,000, and was completed in 1866. There are 30 students, who 
occupy studios on the lower floor, while the upper floor is devoted to 
paintings, statuary, and casts. The Library is N. of the Art School, 
fronting on Higli St., and is a Gothic building of Portland sandstone, 
contnining also the libraries of the Linonian Society and the Brothers in 
Unity. The college owns 162,000 volumes, including 20^000 in the pro- 
fessional schools. Alumni Hall is a red-sandstone building in semi- 
Gothic architecture, with two turrets, at the corner of Higli and Elm 
Sts. Lecture-rooms are in the upper story ; and the lower hall is dec- 
orated with portraits of benefactors and enanent graduates of the college, 
Huntimjlon' s portrait of George Peabody, and Smiherfs Bishop Berkeley 
are interesting. The annual examinations and the Commencement meet- 
ings of the alumni take place here. The college-grounds cover 9 acres, 
near the centre of the city, and its property is valued at upwards of 
$ 5,000,000. 

In the Art School the first gallery contains 70-80 paintings loaned by 
friends, some of which are by the first American masters. These are often 
■withdrawn, and new ones are added. There are landscapes by Gij/brd, Weir, 

HenncHsy, etc;. ; and large copies of the Madoiin;t, di Foligno, the Transliynra- 
tion, and the Last Cnniinunion of St. Jerome: * Autumnal Scene, Gif'ord ; 
Ammimoosue, Valley, IVcir ; Taking the Veil, IVcir ; and a lar^re numlier of 
portraits, sketches, &c. by CoZ. Trumbull. In the second room aixi many casts 
from antique sculptures ; 130, cast of Jupiter, after Phidias; 131, Ilioneus, aftKr 
Praxiteles: l?>2,Ji\.ith, Lombardi ; 133, Jephthah, ^wg'wr ; 135, Edwin Booth ; 130, 
Col. Trumbull, Ball Hughes; 137-8, busts by Po we r.s; 139, statuette oi" Apollo"; 
1, head of Apollo ; 2, ^Esculapius ; 3, the River-God of the Cepliissus ; 4, The -ens, 
after Phidias ; 5, Victory, after Phidias; 6, Kane]ihora ; 7-28, Panatlienaic pro- 
cession, from the outer frieze of the cella of the Parthenon ; 29-33 Combat of the 
Greeks and Amazons, from the frieze of the Mausoleum at Caria. In the corridor 
are works of the same class : 1, cast from Eleusis ; 3, 4, 11, Metojies of the 
Tlieseum ; 12, 13, Combat with Centaurs. In the third room is tlie funtuis 
* Jarvet; collection of early Italian pictures (fine catalogue and "Manual of the 
Stndy of early Clinsti/ui Art," lor saie by tlie.iunitor). i'he pictures from 1 to 10 
ai-e Byzautine Italian, of tlie eleveuth and twelfth centuries : 1, an altar-piece, tlic 
4* P 



82 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

Crucifixion, Deposition, and Entombment ; 2, the Nativity ; 3, a triptych. Ma- 
donna and Child and .Saints ; 4, lU small pictures from the history of Christ, in a 
triptych; 5, ^ a laige altar-piece, Christ and the Madonna, with Angels; 6, ttt. 
George killing the Dragon ; 7, an altar-j>iece in 5 sections, Christ in Hades, &c ; 
8, The Annunciation ; 9, Miraculous Appearance of !SS. Mercurius and Catherine 
(13th century) ; 10, Ma<k)nna and Child ; 11, Cru(;ifixion, Glunta da Pisa ; 12, altar- 
piece in 7 sections, Margaritone daArezzo; 13, Madonna and Child, Cimabv.e ; 
14, Crucifixion, and Madonna and Child, Buccio da Slcna ; 17, "Entombment, 
Giotto; 18, Crucifixion, Giotto ; 19, Annunciation, CavaUni; 20, Vision of S. Domi- 
nic, attributed to Taddco Gaddi ; 21, SiS. James, Julian, and the Archangel 
Michael ; 22, tlie Madonna and Child, &c. ; 23, SS. Augustine and Lucia, Orcagna ; 
24, SS. Dominic and Agnes, Orcagna; 25, S. John the Baptist, Orcagna; 26, *S. 
Peter, O/'cof/iia ; 27, The Truiity and Adoring Saints, Capana; 28, St. Francis 
receiving the Stigmata, Agnolo Gaddi; 2vl, The Agony in the Garden ; 30, Legend 
of S. Giovanni Gualberto, Casentino ; 31, Madonna and Chikl, &c., Giottino ; 32, The 
Adoration of the Shepherds, Giottino; 33, Crucifixion, Aretino ; 34, Vision of 
Constantine, and Fall of Satan, Aretino ; 35, The Assumi>tion of the Virgin ; 36, 
SS. Cosmo and Damian, Bicci ; 37, the Deposition 1rom the Cross, Veneziano ; 38, 
The * Triumph of Love (on wood), Gentile da Fabriano ; 39, Madonna and Child, 
Gentile da Fabriano ; 40, SS. Zenobio, Francis of Assisi, Anthony of Padua, Fra 
Angelico da Ficsole ; 41, The Madonna adoring the Infant Saviour, PamcaZe; 42, 
Infancy of S. John the Baptist, Masaccio ; 43, 44, Scenes from the iEneid, painted 
on wood, Uccelli ; 45, Tournament at Florence, Dcllo Belli ; 46, St. Martin and the 
Beggar, Dello Belli; 47, St. Jerome in Penance, Castagno ; 48, The Temptation of 
S. Anthony, Sassetta; 49, Adoration of the Magi, and 50, Coronation of the Virgin, 
Sano dl Pietro ; 51, S. Catherine of Siena pleading the Cause of the Horentines 
before Gregory VII., Giovanni di Paolo; 52, Martyrdom of a Bishop ; 53, St. 
Anthony tormented by Demons ; 54, Hermits exorcising Demons ; 55, Nativity, 
Square io ne ; 56, Crucifixion, Manfegna; 57, Madonna and Child, Matteo da Siena; 
60, Penitence of S. Jerome, Fra Filippo Lij-ipi ; 61, Madonna, Biamante ; 63, An- 
nunciation, Gozzoli; *67, Adoration of the Magi, Luca Signorelli ; 68, The Princess 
Vitelli, Francia; 70, The Baptism of Christ, Perugino ; 73, Portrait of a Lady, 
Ghirlandajo ; 74, Madonna and Child, Botticelli ; 75, S. Peter, Giovanni Bellini ; 77, 
The Circumcision of Christ, and, 78, Portraits of noble Venetians, Giorgione; 
80, St. Sebastian, and 81 , The Dead Christ, Filippino Lippi ; 82, Diana and Acta;on, 
and 83, the Three Archangels, I^iero di Cosimo ; 84, Crucifixion, Lorenzo di Credi; 
86, The Dead Christ held hy the Viri^in, Fra Bartolovico ; 89, Tlie Madonna sup- 
porting the Dead Christ, Raphael (!iis earliest known work) ; 90, Madoima, Lo 
S'pagno ; 92, Madornia and Child, Andrea del Sarto (badly injured); 94, Christ 
bearing the Croas, Sodoma ; 95, Madonna and Saints, So(?o?Ha ; 97, Madonna and 
iiaints^ Ghirlandajo ; 99, Martyrdom of the Theban Legion, and, 100, Portrait of 
Cosmo dei Medici, Pontornio ; 104, Portrait of the Princess Vittoria Colonna, 
Sebastiano del Piombo ; 106, The Death of Lucretia, Vasari ; 107, Portrait of 
Bianca Capello, Bordone; 109, Tlie Crucifixion, Paolo Veronese; 110, Christ in 
Glorj', with SS. Feter and Paxil, attributed to Veronese; 111, Venal Love, ^(,"'^s?(«.o 
Caracci; 112, Joseph and the Infant Jesus, Gnido Ilcni ; 113, Venus, Minerva, and 
Juno disarming Cupid, Gnido Reni ; 114, Artemisia, Queen of Caria, Porneni- 
chino; 115, * Madonna holding the Crown of Thorns, vnknoivn; 116, Spanish 
Noble, Velasqticz; 117, Head of the Dead Christ, Albert Diirer; 118, Portrait of the 
Emperor Charles V., Holbein; 119, The Procession to Calvary, Brmgliel. 

The Sheffield Scientific School was founded in 1847, and endowed in 1860 
by Mr. J. E. SlielKeld, who gave upwards of $ 500,000 to it during his life, 
and a still larger sum at his death. It has costly buildings, at the head of 
College St., with 17 professors, 10 lecturers, and 212 students. The main 
building is devoted to engineering; the W. Aving to chemistry and metal- 
lurgy; and the E. wing to the Museum of Practical Sciences. N. Sheffield 
Hall is near by, and has a large lecture-room, &c. 

The Divinity School (Congregational) was founded in 1822, and has 



YALE COLLEGE. Route 8. 82 a. 

6 professors, several lecturers, and about 100 students. The E. and W. 
Divinity Halls are on Elm St., opposite Durfee Hall, and are of brick, 
five stories high, with class-rooms on the lower floors. The pretty little 
Marquand ChajJel is attached to E. Divinity Hall, The Lowell-Masou 
musical library is attached to this institution. Courses of lectures are 
delivered before the students every year, on the Lyman-Beecher founda- 
tion. The lecturers include some of the foremost divines of America, 
and among their number are Henry Ward Beecher, John Hall, W. M. 
Taylor, and Phillips Brooks. The Law School was founded in 1824, and 
has 6 professors, 10 lecturers, and 69 students. It occupies the third floor 
of tlie new Court House. The Medical School was founded in 1810, and 
has 8 professors and .32 students. Its lecture-halls, museum, and dissect- 
ing-room are on York St., near Cliapel St. 

The Peabody Museum of Natural History is opposite Alumni Hall, 
at the corner of Elm and Higli Sts., and was richly endowed by George 
Peabody. But one wing has been completed of what is to be an immense 
and imposing Gothic building. The college collections include one of the 
best niineralogical cabinets in the world, begun by Silliman, and contain- 
ing the Perkins, Gibbs, Razamousky, and Count de Bournon collection.s. 
The proceeds of the annual Yale exploration in the West, American 
archseology and ethnology, zoology, and other rich cabinets of curiosi- 
ties are arranged here. The Museum building is constructed of brick and 
stone, in the most substantial manner, and its halls are adorned with 
stained-glass windows. 

The Gymnasium is on Library St., opposite the new Sloane Physical 
Laboratory (opened in 1883, and well equipped). The boat-house of the 
Yale, Navy is on Mill River. The Scroll-and-Kej'' Society has a beauti- 
ful building of black and white stone, at the corner of College and Wall 
Sts. ; the Delta Kappa Epsilon has a mysterious-looking structure on 
York St., near Library' St.; the Psi LTpsilon is on High St., near College 
St.; and the SkuU-and-Bones Society has a windowless edifice, like a 
mausoleum. 

Yale College now contains 110 instructors, and about 1,100 students, of 
whom the academic department has 31 instructors and about 700 students. 
The Annual Commencement (last Wednesday in June) is a great day in 
New Haven, the exercises being conducted mainly in the Centre Church 
and Alumni Hall. 

Ainong the graduates of Yale were S. F. B. Morse, Eli Whitney, Wm. Cliau- 
veiiet, James D. Uaiia, Beiijainiu Silliiii.m ; John C. Calhoun, James Kent, Wm. 
M. Evarts, Jeremiali Mason, T. S. Griuike, Morrison R. Waite, Edwards Pierre- 
pont ; Joiiatliau Edwards, Natlianiel Enniioiis, Timothy Uwiglit, Samuel Hop- 
kins, N. W. Taylor, T. D. Woolsey, Leonard Bacon ; Jan"ies Hadley, J. D. Whit- 



82 h. Route 8. ENVIRONS OF NEW HAVEN. 

ney, Niiali Webster, Joseph E. Worcester ; E. C. Stedman, Theodora Wintlirop, 
C. A. Biisted, Joliii Fierpout, J. Fenimore Cooper, J. G. Percival, N. P. Willis, 
Donald G. Mitchell, Horace Bushnell, and JSamuel J. Tilden. 

The CJiurch of the Redeemer (Cong.) is a rambling Gothic 'buihling at 
the corner of Wall and Orange Sts., diagonally opposite the great struc- 
ture occn})ied by the High School. St. Mary's Church is a large new 
Catholic tem[>le, on Hillliouse Ave. At the corner of Chapel and Olive 
Sts. is the two-towered Episcopal Church of St. Paul. Tlie New Haven 
Colony Historical Society has its rooms in the elegant City-Hall build- 
ing. Tiie old railroad-station is now used as a market. The environs of 
the city are rapidly enlarging, and are being laid out in broad a\enues, 
lined with villas. The horse-cars out W.-Chapel St. give a good vi;;w of 
this section. Tlie city has recently been gaining rapidly in commercial 
iniportance, by the slow withdrawal of shipping from New York to more 
convenient and less expensive ports. I\Ianufa(during industries have also 
increased in an extraordinary manner, and the futui-e prospects of New 
Haven are very llattering. Whitneyville is 2 M. from the city (horse- 
cars every 20 min.), and was founded by Eli Whitney, inventor of the 
cotton-gin. The route affords fine views of East Rock and West 
Rock. 

The new TJnion Depot at New Haven cost $ 250,000, and is a large 
brick building (with restaurant, etc.) erected on made land fronting on 
the harbor, with Long-WIiarf lighthouse on the 1., and City Point on the 
r., and the East-Haven shore across the harbor. 



Environs of New Haven. 

Besides the beaches at Branford and Guilford (before spoken of), there 
is a fine drive dowm the E. side of the harbor, by the old Forts, Hale and 
Wooster. The Grove (steamer from New Haven 4 times daily) and the 
Cove Houses are near the lighthouse, 5 M. from the city, the latter 
(§10 -$15. 00 a week) being on a long, smooth, curving beach of white 



ENVIRONS OF NEW HAVEN. Ruute S. 83 

sand. (Tlie siilnirb of Fairliaven, on this side, is famoiis for its large and 
delicious oysters.) Fort Wooster, 1^ M. lYom the city, was built in 
1814, and is now in ruins ; a noble view is gained from tlie bill on wliieli 
it stands. About 200 yards N. of this Fort was the cemetery of the 
Quinnipiac Indians. I5-2 M. from this point is Fort Hale, which was 
greatly strengthened during the war of 18G1 -G5, but is now dismantled. 

The East and West Rocks are bold and lofty masses of trap-rock, on 
the plain near the city, which geologists think were driven up through 
other strata by some great thi'oe of the central forces. They form the 
southern limit of the great system of mountains which extends from 
Hereford, in Canada, forming the valley of the Connecticut River, which 
many believe once Howed between these cliffs to the Sound. East Eock 
(carriage-road to the top, horse-cars to the base from the Green) is 
1^-2 M. from tlie centre of the city, by way of State St. A small stone 
hotel is on its summit. An extensive * view is afforded hence, embracing 
the broad valleys and bright waters of Mill and Quinnipiac Rivers, the rural 
districts of North Haven and Hamden, the high hills toward Mount Car- 
mel, the frowning cliffs of West Rock, the city of New Haven, its har- 
bor, and a long swee]3 of Long Island Sound. 

*West Rock (horse-cars from Chapel St.) is 2-2| M. N. W. of the 
Crreen, and rises sharply from the plain to an eleration of over 400 ft. 
Tlie ascent (difficult for ladies) is over a rugged and rocky path beyond 
the quarries. The view from the summit is nearly the same as that from 
the East Rock, except that a great portion of the Quinnipiac valley is 
hidden, the northern mountains are differently grouped, and the western 
towns are unfolded to the view. A hard walk of 15-20 min. to the N. 
over the rugged plateau leads to the Judge's Cave, a small cleft in a 
group of boulders, where the regicides GoiTe and Whalley were hidden 
for some time in 1661. A citizen who lived about 1 M. off brought them 
food, until one night a catamount looked in on them and " blazed his eyes 
in such a frightful manner as greatly to terrify them." Wintergrecn 
Fall is near the upper base of the rock, and above it is a dam of rock 
and earth 3,500 ft. long, which forms a lake of 75 acres for the water sup- 
ply of the city. Near West Rock is Malthy Park, covering 800 acres, 
with 3 M. of driveways, and the city water--\7orks. At the foot of the 
rock is Westville, near which is "Edgev/ood," the rural home of Donald 
G. Mitchell (Ik Marvel), the author of ''Dream Life," "Reveries of a 
Bachelor," and otlier charming books. 

Savin Rock, 4 M. S. W. of New Haven (horse-cars from the Green 
half-hourly) is the favorite resort of the citizens. The road passes 
through West Haven, a quiet old village, with a tall church on an elm- 
shaded green. Savin Rock is a bluff promontory pushing a rocky front 
against the waves, and stands at the end of a long, sandy beach whicli has 



84 Roitte 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

a very light sxirf. A pretty view of the Sound is gained from the top of 
the bluff, near which once stood a fine hotel, which was . burned 

down. Tlie Sea- View House can now accommodate 75-100 guests. 

Several busy manufacturing villages are in the vicinity of New Haven. 
NeAvhallville, where the Winchester rifles are made ; Centre ville, the 
home of large car, carriage, and saw factories ; Whitneyville ; Westville, 
where 360,000 gross of match-splints and $50,000 worth of berry-baskets 
are made yearly, &c. 

On leaving the new and costly railroad-station near the bay, at New 

Haven, the Shore-Line train passes on to the rails of tlie New York k, 

Nev/ Haven R. R., on which the cars of the Springtield route run, and 

which is also now used by the Air-Line route. Tlie first station is West 

Haven, 1 M. from Savin Rock. Next comes Milford, (Milford Hotel, 

$ 2. 00), a pretty village, with wide streets lined with arching elms, and 

with an enclosed green ^ M. long. 

The aborigines of Wapowage having been crowded ofT, this district was settled 
and named, in 1639, by a company from Milford, in England. The occupation 
seems to have been in accordance with a series of resolutions at an early nueting 
of the Milford church. "Voted, That the earth is the Lord's, and the fulness 
thereof. Voted, That tlie earth is given to the saints. Voted, That we are the 
saints." The settlement being menaced in the Indo-Dutch War of lGi3-6, it 
was surrounded by a v/all and palisade 1 M. around ; and the dreaded Mohawks 
having been repulsed by Connecticut Indians near Miliord, the saints ]iossessed 
the earth in peace. On New Year's Day, 1777, 200 American soldiers, eajitives 
from the i)rison-shii)S at New York, were east ashore here from British cartel- 
ships, and despite the truly saintly ministrations of the Milfordites, 46 of them 
died in one month. They were buried in the old cemetery (near the station), and 
a monument 30 it. high raised over them, which states the facts, and the names 
of the victims, and asks, "Who shall say that Republics are ungrateful?" 

St. Peter's (Episcopal) Church is a venerable and ivy-clad stone edifice 
on the green and terraced banks of the tranquil Wepowaug. Two large 
white churches (of wood) stand on the hill beyond. A large amount of 
straw-goods is made in the village. Cfiarles Island is in the Sound near 
Milford, and is the headquarters of the American Steam Yacht Club. 

Soon after leaving Milford, the line crosses the broad Housatonic River, 
and stops at Stratford, a quiet village with neither hotel nor factory, and 
rich in two or three elm-lined, tranquil streets, where one can stroll on 
dreamy autumn afternoons and feel as if in a second era of the Truce of 
God. Such streets are found only in these old towns on Long Island 
Sound. Stratford was settled by Massachusetts men, in 1639, and its 
pastor was Adam Blackman, whom Cotton Mather (who is fond of play- 
ing upon words) calls ''a Nazarite purer than snow, and whiter than 
milk." The society which he organized now meets in a new Swiss Gothic 
church near the station. Dr. Samuel Johnson, first President of King's 
(Columbia) College, and " Father of Episcopalianism in Connecticut," is 
buried near the veneralde Christ Church (founded 1723). 

The next station is Bridgeport. 



BRIDGEPORT. Route 8. 85 

Brirlgeport. — (Sterling IIousp, Main St.; Atlantic House, opposite station, 
eaeli !ip3 a day Cai'rkuies, 5()c. for eacli person, or ijp 1. 00 for 3 persons. Post 
Oj/ice on State, near Main St. Optra lIou.'<e on Fairfield Ave. Librari/, corner 
Main and Joiiu, with 12,000 volumes; magazines and papers in the reading-rooai. 
Home-cars run all over the city. 

Tliis district v/as owned l)y tlie Paugusset Indians, and was occupied soon after 
Masf)n's victory in 1(537, when he pursue'l the Pequots in this direction. The in- 
nocent Panyussets (vi'ith their hniidred v,i;;wams) were soon crowded on to a res- 
crvntion of SO acres at Golden Hill (so luuned from its glittering mica), and the 
jtoor half-dozen who remaiiicd in irGf) sold out and left. Fi^om the contiguous 
t"wns of Strat ford and Fairtieh! a new jiaj-ish was forincd, called Stratfield, and from 
lais Pridgc]). irt was aiterwaixls organized. Charle.s Chauncey, the famous Puritan 
Father, was pastor here lor 20 years, and whiie he lookcil after the adults the 
( iuirch " Voted thnt Natlianiel Wackle should he the man to look after y« boyes a 
t^abhatii dayes in time o exercise that they jilay not." In 1715, Pa.^tor Cooke of 
New Ha\'cn accepted a call here on a salary of " 2O0 1, a year, or p)ro visions at the 
fidlowiug ra es, viz : Indian at 2.s\, ry at 2s. 8(7., v>'heat at -Is. per bush., porck at 
20s. percwt.,and firewood for the yous of tlie family." People were seated in 
the cliurch "by diginty, Ad.ge, and a state." In 1707, an Episcopalian mission- 
ary was sent here from England, who, by 1748, had organized a cllui'ch (the pres- 
ent St. John's Society. 

Bridgeport has 40,000 inhabitants, with 31 churches, 5 newspapers, 
9 banks, 3 academies, an opera-house, and the county buildings. It is fa- 
mous for its great factories, among which are the sewing-machine works of 
Wheeler & Wilson (1,200 hands), Elias Howe Jr. Machine (1,200 hands), 
and the J. B. Secor Co. ; the Sharps' Ritle Co., the Ornamental Wood Co. 
(pressed goods), the Frary cutlery factor}"-, the Tomlinson Spring and Axle 
Co., the Union Metallic Cartridge Co. (1,500 hands), 6 corset companies 
(2,500 hands), Bridgeport Organ Co. (500 hands), Malleable Iron Co. (500 
hands), Bridgeport Brass Co., tanneries, a carpet-factory, soap-works, &c. 

Fairfield Ave. (horse-cars) runs from the station across Main St., and 
past the Public Library and the stately St. John's Episcopal Cliurch, 
to the picturesque Mountain- Grove Cemetery (SO acres), where there are 
many fine monuments. \ M. beyond are Holland Heights, which over- 
look Bridgeport, Fairfield, Black Rock, and the Sound. North Ave. 
(then called the Kiwfs IHglnoay) was the centre of the ancient settle- 
ment, of which a few gray houses remain. Broad St. is parallel to Main, 
and has a line of neat churches. St. Augustine'' s Church and Convent 
are imposing stone buildings, with the Cluny-like Wheeler mansion op- 
posite, in extensive grounds, and the aristocratic streets of Golden Hill 
extending beyond. Washington Park is in E. Bridgeport, and contains 
a grove of forest -trees. St. Paul's Church and the pretty Pembroke 
Lake are near it ; and antique Stratford and the far-viewing Old-Mill Hill 
are beyond. On the S. of the city (horse-cars on Main St.) is * Sea-Side 
Park, which has a trotting-course, a grove of venerable trees, a soldiers' 
monument adorned with statues, and a magnificent esplanade-road, 
which follows the curves of the sea-wall over the beach for nearly 1 M., 
giving broad views over the Sound and on to the Long-Island coast, 20 
M. distant. During the Revolutionary War the 4th Conn, encamped 
here, and the remains of the old fort are still visible. 

Beyond the Park is the summer-resort of Black Rock, the birthplace of Capt. 



8G Routes. FAIRFIELD. 

Chauncey, a distinfniislierl naval officer in the war of 1812. Fairfield is just be- 
yond, a pleasant 4 M. drive from Bridgeport. Waldemere is tlio stately and 
hiyli-towered mansion of P. T. Barnuni, fronting the farlv, sumptuously fur- 
nished, and with spacious ornamental grounds which are open to the people. 

Barnuni was born in Conn., 1810, and began his great career as showman in 
1835 (with Joice Heth). In 1849, he paid Jenny Lind $160,000 for singing 150 
nights in America. In 1865, his great museum at New York Avas destroyed. 
Charles y. Stratton, or Gen. Tom Thumb, was bom at Bridgeport in 1832. His 
size and growth were as usual until his seventh month, when he ceased to grow. 
In 1844 Barnum took him to Europe; and his travels were incessant and his reve- 
nues large until his death, in 1882. In 1863 he married Miss Lavinia Warren, of 
Middleboro', Mass., a young lady of about the same stature as himself, — to wit, 
28 inches. 

Steamers leave Bridgeport for New York semi-daily (i? 1) ; also for Port Jeffer- 
son, L. I., twice daily (fai-e, Sl.OO). Stages for Black Rock, Easton, &c. 

Railroads. Tlie Naugaruck R. R., from Bridgeport to Winsted (G2 M.), runs 
N. in the valleys of the Ilousatonic and Naugatuck Rivers (Route 16). Tlie 
Housatonic R. R. runs from Bridgeport to Pittsfield, Mass., 110 M. (Route IT). 

The next station is near tranquil old Fairfield (Merwin House, 

$10 -$12.00 a week ; open in summer only). Fairfield is an ancient 

village, with a beantiful street lined with villas and careful landscape 

gardening. On the Green are the Episcopal and Congregational Chnrches, 

and the Court House, "Built A. D. 1720, destroyed by the British 

A. D. 1779, rebuilt A. D. 1794, remodelled 1870." 

July 7, 1770, Tryon with his Hessian Yagers, returning from the pillage of New 
Haven, landed here, sacked the village, and burned 200 houses. The scene in- 
spired Col. Humphrey's Elegy beginning, — 

" Ye smoking ruins, marks of hostile ire, 

Ye ashes warm which drink the tears that flow, 
Ye desolated plains, my voice inspire. 

And give sett music to my song of woe. 
How pleasant, Fairfield, on th' enraptured sight, 
Rose thy tall spires, and oj)e'd thy social halls." 

Another poet of that day was more pointed in his remarks : — 

•' Tryon achieved the deeds malign, And smiled to see destruction spread ; 

Tryon, the name for every sin. While Satan, blushing deep, looked on. 

Hell's blackest fiends the flame surveyed And lutkniy disowned her son." 

10 min. walk S. of the Green leads to the beach, the best on the Sound, 
protected by a bar from S. winds, with a gradually-sloping, sandy shore, 
and no surf. To the S. is the lighthouse on Penfield Reef, and Black 
Rock light is to the E., in which direction is a high, grassy bluff on which 
it is contemplated to build a mammoth hotel. 15 min. walk N. of the 
Green is Round Hill, commanding a wide vieAv of Bridgeport and the 
Sound, Some miles N. are Samp Mortar Rock (a precipice 70 ft. high, 
on whose top is a deep hole where the Indians poimded corn), and Green- 
field Hill, where President Dwight was once settled, and where he wrote 
the poem (popiilar 70 years ago) of "Greenfield Hilh" From this point 
a fine view is gained, embracing, according to tlie poet, 

"Norwalk's white ascending spires, sky-encireled Easton's churchei, 
Stratford s turrets, Fairfield giving lustre to tlie day. 

Prince of the waves, and ocean's favorite child, 
There Longa's Sound all gloriously expands." 

Southpo^'t station and village is 2 M. from Fairfield. N. of the railroad 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Routed. 87 

and near the station is a cultivated field, which occupies the site of the 
Sasco Swamp, where, in 1637, the Unquowa (Fairfield) Indians and astrong 
band of Pequots took refuge. Mason, with troops of Mass. and Conn, 
surrounded the swamp, and after a parley the Unquowas were allowed 
to come out (being blameless). The Pequots refused all terms, and, after 
an obstinate attack, 70 of them broke the English line and escaped. 180 
Avere made prisoners and sold to the West Indies as slaves. Soon after 
these "fair fields " were occupied by a company from Concord, Mass. 
Tlie next station is Westjx^rt. The village is 1^-2 M. N. of the rail- 
road, on the widenings of the Saugatuck, and is a lively little place. 
The Memorial Church of the Holy Trinity is a fine G-othic edifice of 
sandstone, alongside of which, and in strong contrast, is a heavy Egyptian 
tomb. 

Station, S. Norwalk {City Hold; Warinck), near which is the 
village of NurioalL (iiorse-cars to station). The legend says that this 
land, in the purchase (1640) from the Indians, was to extend one day's 
"north walk " from the Sound. In 1653, the town was incorporated, 
having then 20 families. July 11, 1779, Tryon's Hessians plundered and 
burnt the village, meeting with such resistance from 50 Continental 
soldiers and tlie militia that they lost 148 men. The town includes sev- 
eral villages, with the so-called city of S. Nonocdk (3,000 inh.abitants) 
and the borough of Norwalk (Adami^ Ilnvse ; Conn. Hotel), which has 
6,000 ndiabitants, and is 1-^ M, from the station. Midway between Nor- 
walk and S. Norwalk is the palace which was built by Le Grand Lock- 
wood, at a cost of over $1,000,000, and now pertains to Chas. D. Mat- 
thews, of New York. The Norwalk Lock Co. makes 900,000 locks 
yearly, in 300 forms ; the Union Knob Works turn out 1,500,000 knobs 
(of New Jersey clay) yearly ; and there are manufactories of hats and 
shoes, felt, beaver-cloth, cassimeres, shirts, earthenware, engines, etc. 
The oysters of Norwalk are famous. 

Stations, Darien (village i M. S. of the station), Noroton. Noroton is 
1^ M. from Darien, and near the Sound. Upon the Boston Post road at 
Nuroton stands the Episcopal Church, connected with which is a mortuary 
chapel, erected by Mr. lienj. Fitch in memory of his mother, who is 
buried in a vault beneath. In the tower is a chime of nine bells, given by 
Mr. Fitch. Near the Noroton station is situated "The Home," founded 
by the same gentleman. This 'institution was first established for the edu- 
cation and maintenance of soldiers' children. It is now, by a change in 
the charter, a home for disabled soldiers. A fine gallery of modern French 
pictures is attached to the home, and can be visited. It includes many 
choice paintings and works of art, collected by Mr. Fitch iu Europe. 



88 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YOEK. 



3 M. beyond Noroton, the train stops at Stamford, {Stamford 
House, Union House), wliicli was founded in 1G41, and thereafter 
sometimes harried by the Dutch from New York. In 183S it was a (bill 
hamlet of 700 inhabitants ; but soon after the Empire City looked with 
favor upon it, and during the last 25 years its hills have been occupied by 
the villas and parks of New York gentlemen. Hence fine churches have 
been built, broad avenues are laid out, and the place now has over 12,000 
inhabitants. St. Andrew's (Epis. ) Church is a little gem of Gothic archi- 
tecture, guarding a wide sweep of graves. Tlie Univ. Cliurch, near by, is 
a handsome stone building, wliile tlia Catholics are raising a large cluiich, 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 8. 89 

on the road from the station. A fine new Town Hall, of brick and Ohio 
stone, 150 ft. front and with a tower 100 ft. high, rises in the centre of 
the village (^ M. from the station). Near it is a small, triangular park 
with a fountain. A pleasant drive is that on the New Haven road, passing 
many fine villas, among whicli is Quintard's stone chateau. 1000-1500 
New-Yorkers come liere during the summer, many of whom stop at Shiji- 
pan Point (I5-2 M. from the station), wliere is the large Ocean House, 
from whose beach a pretty still-water view is afi"orded. Tlie Hamilton 
House (Mr. S. T. Cozzens) is a favorite summer-resort on Noroton Hill. 

Col. Abraham Davenport, "a man of stern integrity and generous benevo- 
lence," was born at ytamford in 1715, and was for 25 years in tlie IState legisla- 
ture. On the memorable Dark Day, May 19th, 1780. great fear fell on the legisla- 
ture, then in session ; and in antitdpatioa of the approach of the Day of universal 
Judgment, an adjournraeut was moved. The brave old man arose, and tlius spoice, 
calming the fears of the legislators, and continuing the session: "lam agaiii.it 
an adjournment. The Day of Judgment is either approaching, or it is not. If it 
is not, there is no cause for an ailjournment. If it is, I choose to be found doing 
my duty. I wish, therefore, that candles may be brought." This scene has been 
made the theme of a fine poem by Whittier. Col. Davenport's sous, James and 
John, were ofBccrs in the Revolution, and afterwards members of Congress (1796 -99; 
1799-1817). His great-grandson was living in Stamford in 1884. 

Steamers leave Stai7iford for New York daily. A Railroad runs from this point 
to New Canaan, a quiet country town 8 M. to the N. 

Stations, Cos Cob (village N. of the railroad, on the Mianus River), 
and Greenwich. Greenwich was settled in 

1610, and in 1650 was appointed by the Anglo-Dutch frontier commission 
h\ session at Hartford as the W. limit of Conn. Somewhere in this early 
age, a desperate battle lasting all day was fought on Strickland's Plain, 
between the Dutch and Indians. The village stands on rolling hills, 
^ M. N. of the station. 15 min. walk to the E. is a stately Cong. 
Church, built of gray rubble, with deep transepts, a wide and picturesque- 
ly irregular front, a high pointed roof, and a fine stone spire in open- 
work. Tills fine edifice is on a high hill, and may be seen for leagues 
along the Sound, resembling some pilgrimage church on the Seine 
or Danube. Near this is the exquisite Christ Church (Epis. )iii a shel- 
tered grove on the ridge, built of gray stone trimmed with Caen stone. 
Tlie * Lenox House (150 guests; $1 a day) is a first-class summer-resort 
and winter-hotel on Putnam Hill, ^ M. from the station. 

A few rods beyond (to the E.), on the r. of the road, is an old cemetery, wheri 
stood the church in 1779, near which Gen. Putnam, with 00 militia-men, fougi; j 
an advancing force of dragoons until the last moment possible. Then, since t ) 
go down by the curving road (the present road is modern and more direct) v/oui I 
exi)ose him to a close Are from many of the enemy, he galloped 11 is horse dov>M 
the steps built in the steep hillside for the church-goers. The British cavalry 
sent a volley after him (one shot piercing his hat), but dared not follow, althougii 
two or three dragoons of Lafayette's escort to the place (in 1821) performed tiio 
feat safely. Putnam l-^st 2 cannon here, but his men mostly escaped to the adja- 
cent swamps, and the next day Old Put attacked Tryon's rear-guard with a force 
from ytamford, and captured 38 men. 

S. E. of the Greenwich station is Indian Harbor, on a point near which 



90 Routed. BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD. 

\ M. from the R. R., is the elegant ^Morton House (250 guests; $4 a 
day), formerly the Americus-Cliib House, with gas, running water, a band 
of music, and rich lawns. Fine water-view from the hotel. 

Soon after leaving Greenwich, the train crosses the Byram River, and 
leaves Yankee-land, which is said to stretch, "from Quoddy Head" (in 
Maine) " to Byram River." Stations, Port Chester, in Westchester 
County, New York (De Soto House), a busy village with 5 churches. Rye 
(with a tine beach 2 M. S. E. of the station), Mamaroneek, "the place 
of rolling stones," where Smallwood's Maryland battalion defeated 
Rogers's Tory Rangers in 1776, and New Rochelle. This village was set- 
tled by Huguenot refugees in 1691, after the fall of La Rochelle, and the 
French language was long used here. The State of New York granted a 
tract of land here to Thomas Paine. 

Thomas Paine, was born in England, 1737, and came to America in 1774. Early in 
1776 he published a tract, "Common-Sense," advocating republican indepen- 
dence, and in Dec. "The Crisis "was published, beginning with the words, "These 
are the times that try men's souls." This was read at the head of every Conti- 
nental regiment, and aroused the drooping spirits of the army and people. Af- 
ter filling several otfiees in the U. S., he went to France in 1791, and was elected 
to the National Convention. After a stormy life in Europe, during which he 
attacked Burke in the " Rights of Man," and advocated atheism in the " Age of 
Reason" (17'.>5), he came to New Rochelle in 1S02, and settled on an estate given 
him by New York, where he died in 180'.). In 1819 Wm. Cobbett removed his re- 
mains to England, and in 1839 the State erected a monument to Paine on his old 
farm. 

After Neio Rochelle, the train passes Pelhamville, and at Mount Ver- 
non turns to the S. W., and runs on the rails of the Harlem R. R., 
through several suburban villages without stopping, then crosses tlie 
Harlem River, and stops at the station, 42d Street, corner of 4th 
Avenue. 

New York, see Route 51. 

9. Boston to New Bedford. 

Via Old Colony Railro'id, in Ih hr. 54 7n. 

Boston to Taunton, then to Weir Junction and Myrick's (crossing other 
lilies of the same railroad at these places); then Rowland's and E. Free- 
toirn (1^ M. from K. Freetown village, at the head of one of the great Lakc- 
ville ponds) ; then over the level farming plains of Freetown to Acushnet, 
W. of the quiet hamlet of the same name (also reached, from New Bed- 
ford, by stage; running 5 M. farther to Long Plain in Rochester); then to 
New Bedford. 

New Bedford (Parker House; Bancroft Hoiise), the Acushnet of tlie 
Indians, was settled in 1661, by Quakers, on lands owned later by Russell. 
This being the family name of the Dukes of Bedford, the settlement was 
named in compliment to them. In the Revolution the place became a 
perfect nest of privateers, until a British force under Earl Grey attacked 
it (in the autumn of 1778), and destroyed its slii]'i)ing, wharves, and 



BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD. Route 9. 91 

stores. In colonial times, a few vessels were sent out after whales. Tho 
Revolutionary AVar briefly interrupted this career of prosperity, but be^ 
tween 1790 and 1857 tlie whalers from this port penetrated every sea. In 
1857, there were 329 whaling-vessels, with 10,000 sailors, and an invested 
capital of $12,000,000. The business began to decline after the Californian 
gold-fever; scores of the old ships were filled with stone, carried to the 
South, and sunk in the channels before the rebellious cities on the coast; 
and in the last hours of the Secession War the Confederate cruiser " She- 
nandoah " destroyed a large part of the Pacitic whaling fleet. In 1871, 
33 whalers were caught in the ice in the Arctic Ocean and abandoned. 
The whaling business (though declining) is still carried on here to a greater 
extent than from all other parts of the world combined. New Bedford 
has 28,D00 inliabitants. Its extensive water-works cost $1,200,000. Tlie 
Wamsutta Mills have 2.300 workmen and 202,000 spindles, and use 22,000 
bales of cotton yearly; the Potomska Mills, 1,300 hands and 106,000 
spindles; the Grinnell and Acushnet Mills, 62,500 spindles each; the 
Oneko Woollen Mill employs 175; the glass-works, 300; the Gosnold Iron 
Works, 100 ; the Morse Twist-Drill Works, 200 ; the carriage factories, 
150 ; and 300 are engaged in art-productions. The new Grace Church has 
a fine chime of bells. 

New Bedford fronts on the wideriings of the Acushnet River, near its 
mouth, and is built on the side of a ridge slojiing to the water's edge. It 
" has a cosmopolitan air always blowing over its strata," from the number 
of foreign mariners who are found here, and one of its quarters is called 
Fayal, from the large population of Portuguese there residing. The upper 
part of the city is pleasant, and County St. is lined with stately old 
residences of the marine aristocracy, whence Lady Emma Stuart Wortley 
called this " a city of palaces." Tliese " palaces " are all on the model of 
the "architectural boulders" so common in the decadent fishing-ports 
along the coast. The City Hall is a fine granite building, and the 
Custom House is built of the same material. Several of the churches are 
notable for their neatness and grace, especially the spacious Unitarian 
Church. The City Library is a large and rapidly increasing collection of 
books, kept in finely arranged rooms, and free to the public. The wealthy 
old families of the aristocracy of New Bedford are famous for their hospi- 
tality and culture, and but few of the citizens go abroad to seek summer 
recreation. The favorite drive is around Clark's Point, which extends into 
Buzzard's Bay, and is bordered by a broad, smooth road, constructed at 
great expense by the city to give its people the benefits of the sea-breezes 
in summer. This avenue (5 M. aroimd) affords a brilliant scene in sxiltry 
summer afternoons. 

Opposite the city, and joined to it by a bridge (horse -railway) is Fairhaven (so 
named from its pretty location), a village formerly devoted to the whale trade. 
In 1778, while New Bedford was burning, a large British force crossed to Fair- 



1)2 Route 9. ELIZABETH ISLANDS. 

haven, intent on its destruction. But Major Fearing of the militia, fearing not, 
attacked and repulsed them and saved the village. 

W. of New Bedford are the large but thinly settled towns of Dartmouth and 
Westport, on long inlets from the sea, on a branch of th(^ 0. 0. K. R. These towns 
(the Apouiganset and Aeoaksct of the Indians) are nurseries of sailors, and have 
but an inferior soil, wliieli produces fair ero^is when nifinured by menhaden fish. 
In one year (1843) six seines off Dartmouth shore and below Padan-Aram, caught 
18,100 barrels of these fish, which sold for oOc. a barrel. 

Railroad from Fairhaven to Tremont, on the 0. (1. T?. R., Rpe Route 6. 

Steamers leave daily during the summer, for Martha's Vineyard. Upon leaving 
the wharf, a line view is obtained of Fairliaven on the E., and of the hmg wharves 
and i)Oiiulous slojies of New Bedford on the W. Palmer's Island with its light- 
house and Fort Phanix, is soon passed, and then the long, projecting Clark's 
Point, with a sti'ong fortress now in process of constniction. The s'eamer 
now passes straight to the S. E. across Buzzards Bay, a noble estuary 30 M. long 
by 10 M. wide, with thinly poj)ulated shores. Tlie Norsemen (11th century) 
called this Bay, Straum Fiord ; the origin of its present name is not apparent. 
Far to the S. are seen the Round Hills,"on the Dartmouth coast, and Cuttyhunk, 
the outermost of the Elizabeth Islands. Cutiyhunk was colonized by c:apt. 
Gosnold, in May, 1C02, with a company sent out by the Earl of fcouthamjiton. 
He named the Island " Eliznbeth," in honor, probably, of the maiden Queen. The 
island is 2h M. long, and at that time a'tiounded in game. Gosnold and his 
people erected a fort and cabins on an islet in a jjond near the centre of Cutty- 
jiunk, and here inaugurated the first settlement of New England. But tlie 
Indians were hostile and numerous, and tlie colonists' supplies soon gave out ; so 
within a few weeks the plan, was abandoned, and the peoide returned to England. 
The island is now occupied by a merry club of Nev.--\'<u'kers, and the 115 iuhalii- 
tants of Gosnold townshiiJ. On Penikese Island (covering about 100 acres^ 
is the villa long occu]ilcd liy John Auders(ni, of New York, who (in April, 1873) 
gave the island and i! 50,000 in casli to Prof. Agassiz for the location of a summer 
school of zoiilogy and science (since abandoned). Nashawena 

(3 M. I'ing) is E. of Cuttyhunk, and beyond that is Pasque Island. This is owned 
l)y a New York club, wliicli has built a club-ho"sc, f;ini;s, and staMes, and jTeivired 
fruit and flower gardens, and preserves of small fish <'or bait. The surrounding 
waters abound in bass, bluc-fisli, S(iueteague, sword-fish, &c. Next to Pas([ue is 
Nauslion, 8 M. long, which was for many years the favorite residence of James 
I^owdoin, an early American diplomatist, whn.se mansion was adorned by a large 
libi-ary, philosophical a])pa;'atus, and a fine picture-gallery, whicdi h.e had collected 
in Eurojje. At his death he left all these things, together with the reversion of 
Naushon, to Bowdoin College. Lady Wortley, who visited the island early in 
tills century, says, "Naushon is a little pocket America, a Lilliputian Western 
v.'orld, a coni]>ressed Coluiubia." 

Naushon is owiumI by John M. Forbes, of Milton, and is said to l)e "stocked 
with all tlie varieties of Englisii and Scotch ga!iie-)>irds, and most of their pme 
animals, including also several liundred Amerii-au deer. I'lairic I'ov, 1," etc. Kettle 
and Tar)iaulin CoVes a.i-e well-known harbors, r'-sp(^cti\'cly on the N. and S. shores 
of Naushon. Near the N. E. end of tlie island are t!ie islets of Wcjiecket, Uiica- 
tena, Nonamesset, and the Ram Islands. Hftwcen Nausiiou and tlie Falmouth 
sliore is tlie strait called Wodds Holl, a dKH'T.lt and intri'-ntf^ ]iassage between 
Bu/.zards Bay and the Vii!?\vard Sonnd. The steamer sto])s at tl;e village of 
Woods Boll, where there are several summer boarding-houses. (See Route 7.) 
After le-iving this jMiint. and passing Nobstpie Light on the 1., the steamer crosses 
Vinevard Sound, and stous at the wharf at MartJia's Vineyard (Route 7). Says 
an English tourist: " What scenes can be more rcfre.shing and exalting th;in an 
exii.ansive view of the miudity wa\es, dotted here and there with sucii beautifvd 
islands as those hi the Vineyard Sound? Vtliile a^iuatic birds skim the waves, 
ami the gulls are scre.-uuing.' dipping, and darting over a siioal of blue-fidi, or 
menhaden, vessels outward and homeward bound ai'e always passing, for it In- 
(dudes in its range of view the packets and sailing-craft between New York and 
Boston. We have here the foreground and persi>ective worthy of the pencil 
of Claude Lorraine, while the background is granite shores of 

Massa' husetts." . 

Noisouitt {Xonquitt House), 6 M. S. E. of New Bedford, is a charming and 
qui.t su'inmiT n-.-ort, on an upkind on the W. slioie of Uuzzards buy, wUa tiue 
beaches and many cottagesr Steamer d.aiy to New iicdford. 



PROVIDENCE TO WORCESTER. Route '10. 93 

10. Providence to Worcester. 

Via Prov. and Worcester R. R., 43 M., Fare §1.20. 

Tlie railroad follows the line of the Boston and Providence R. R. as far 
as Pawtucket, and then turns iip the valley of the Blackstone River. Sta- 
tions, Pa\vtucket, Valley Falls, and Lonsdale. At the latter place the track 
passes through a deep cut in Study Hill, to which William Blackstone, 
the first settler of Boston, retired after the Puritan immigration. He 
lived here in the wilderness from 1G34 until his death, in'1675, surrounded 
by his books, and deeply respected by the Indians. The busy little river 
which flows by the hill was named in his honor. After passing the 
stations of Berkley, Ashton, Albion, and Manville, the train stops at 
Woonsoeket {Momunent House, Wonnsockct Hotel), a thriving manufac- 
turing town. Within a radiixs of 3 M. from the centre of the town are 
SOjOOO inhabitants. In the tov/n itself, 4,200 persons are engaged in 
cotton -factories 2,400 in woollen-factories, and 700 in other manufactoiies. 
In 1869, the production of these busy hands was reported as 43,000,000 
yards of cotton cloth, 3,300,000 yards of woollens and cassimeres5 100,000 
grain-bags, . 30 tons cotton- warp, 1,000 tons of soap. The celebrated 
Harris cloths are made here. The Social Mills have 43,000 spindlas and 
500 liands. The town has erected a neat monument "in memory of her 
brave sons who, during the great Rebellion, gave their lives that the 
Republic might live." The Harris Institiite is a popular institution given 
by Mr. Harris to the people, containing a large hall, and a library of 
7,000 volumes. Woonsoeket Hill, the highest land in the State, com- 
mands a fine view of the populous and busy valley. 

Kailroads. — A branch road runs from Woonsoeket to Ashland, Mass. The 
Woon.sot^ket Division of the New Yoriv & New England R. R. terminates here, 
while the main line of that road crosses the Worcester route at Waterford. 

Bevond Woonsoeket the line enters Massachusetts. Blackstone {Lhv- 
coin House) and Millville (Clarendon Hotel; stage to Slatersville, 2 INI.) 
are in a manufacturing town of 5,000 inhabitants, in the BLackstone val- 
ley. Uxbridge {^Hotel Windsor, new and luxurious) is a textile-manu- 
facturing village of 3,000 inhabitants, with 5 churcbes and a bank, (iood 
views from the hotel, along the valley; and picturesque hill-scenery on all 
sides. 4-5 M. W., in Sutton, is Purgatory, a wild and precipitous chasin, 
i iM. long, 4 M. from Whitinsville. Xear Uxbridge, in 1G7<), Major Tal- 
cott attacked and killed tbe Queen of Narrngansett in her fortress. 

Whitins is Ih M. from Whitinsville (Whitinsville Hotel) and its cotton- 
machiner}'' works. Northbridge is 2 M. from Nurthbridcje Centre. Front 
Fdrnumsville (Farnumsville Hotel) dailv stages run to Uj>ton (Warren 
House) hill farms (4 M.), and Milford {'Sh M.); also to Grafton. Beyond 
Sandersville the train readies Milibury {St. Charles Hotel), a prosi)erous 
factory-village, whence dailv stages run to W. Millburv (3 M.), Sutton 
(3; M.), and'W. Sutton (OJ M.); and a branch runs N. to 'the Alliany R. R. 

{ lir. beyond Millburj', the train reaches Worcester (see Route 21). 



94 Route 11. PliOVIDENCE TO HARTFORD. 



11. Providence to Hartford and Ifewburgh. 

Via New York and New England R. R. To Hartford, 90 M. ; fere, !$3.30. To 
Waterbury, 12"2i m. j tare, ^4.15. To Newburgh-ou-Hudsou, 2Ul M. 

After leaving Providence the train passes tlie stations, Cranston, Oak 
Lawn, Natick, Riverpoint, Quidnick, Anthony, Washington, Nipmuck, 
Summit, and Greene. These are mostly manufacturing villages in the 
extensive town of Coventry, and several of them are occupied h\ large 
cotton and woollen factories. Shortly after leaving Greene the train 
enters the State of Connecticut, and passes the stations, Oneco, Sterling, 
Moosup, and Plainfield. The latter station is in the Indian district of 
Quinnibaug, which was bought by Gov. Winthrop in 1659, and settled 
by Massachusetts people. From the great quantities of corn which it 
produced, it w^as called in the colonial era the " Egypt of E. Connecticut." 
At Plainfield the Norwich and Worcester R. R. crosses the line. After 
passing the stations, Canterbury, Jewett City, Lovetts, Baltic, W^aldo's, 
and S. Windham, the line crosses the New London Northern Division of 
the Vermont Central R. R. at Willimantic {Drainard Iloiixe), This is 
a large manufacturing village, on the ii\er of the same name, which falls 
100 ft. in 1 M. Extensive thread, silk, and cotton mills are located on 
the water-power thus afforded, occupying large factories built of stone 
found in this vicinity. The Air Line R. R. between Boston and New 
York passes through Willimantic, which is becoming a great railroad 
centre. The only legend connected with Windham (in which town Wil- 
limantic is situated) is of a long battle betv/een tw.o hordes of immigrat- 
ing frogs, in which several hundred of the combatants were killed. This 
event has been duly attested and described by a local poet in a Batrachy- 
omachian ejjic of 30 stanzas. The train now passes Andover, Bolton (near 
which is Bolton Notch, a romantic pass into the valley of the Connecti- 
cut), and Vernon. At Vernon a branch track (5 LI.) runs to Rockville, a 
prosperous manufacturing village on the w^ater-power afforded by the 
Hockannon River. Beyond Vernon is Manchester, which makes yearly 
2,000,000 yards of gingham, 90,000 pairs of socks, 450 tons of book-paper, 
besides government and bank-note paper for several nations. From 
thence a branch railroad ('2h M.) runs to S. Manchester, the seat of the 
silk-works of the Cheney Brothers. After Manchester comes Burnside, 
where paper-making was a brisk business in 1776, and Avhere there are 
now 3 paper-mills, whose yearly production is 3U0 tons of writing- 
paper, 400 tons of manilla paper, and 500 tons of book-paper, vhe ■. 
next station is E. Hartford, with a wide, level street lined with elms,N^p4 
2 M. long. This district was the home of the Podimk Indians, whose 



AND WATERUURY. Route 11. 95 

cMef, Totanimo, could bring 200 bowmen into the field. The train now 

crosses the broad Connecticut River and enters the city of Hartford (see 

Route 21). Connections are made here with the New Haven, Hartford, 

and Springfield R. R. (Route 21, for New York or Boston) ; also with the 

Conn. Western (Route 20) and the Conn. Valley (Route 14) Railroads. 

From Hartford the line runs by Newington to New Britain {Strickland 

House, Humphrey House), a wealthy and working towar. Tlie water-supply 

is from a large reservoir some 200 ft. above the village. In the centre of 

the town is a spacious square, adorned with trees and fountains, and near 

its end is the elegant and imposing S. Cong. Church. In the same vicinity 

is the State Normal School. The products of the industry of New 

Britain are varied and extensive. The Russel and Erwin Co. employs 500 

men in 5 acres of works, and sends out millioiis of dollars' Avorth of locks, 

which are used in all parts of the world. Hardware, lace, hose, merino 

goods, gold jewelry, and knives are made here in large quantities. 

Elihu Burritt, the "learned blacksmith," was born at New Britain in ISll. At 
the ai^e of 16, he was apprenticed to a blacksmith, and followed that trade for 
many years. Desiring to read the Bi')le iu its original languages, he mastered the 
Greek and Hebrew by evening studies, and acquired sucli a i)liilological ta?te, 
that he afterwards became familiar witli all the principal ancient and modern 
languages. He became an earnest advocate of universal j)eace, temperance, and 
tlie abolition of slavery, and published a paper and several books in defence of 
these movements. After making several visit j to Europe, he became U. S- Con- 
sid at Birmingham. 

At Plainville, the next station, the New Haven and Northampton R. R. 
(Route 15) crosses this route. Many carriages are made in this village. 
At Forcstville, Bristol, and Terryville stations are many large clock-fac- 
tories, where every variety of clocks are made. After passing several 
flag stations, the train stops at Waterbury (Earle House; Scuvill), 
a prosperous city of 22,000 inhabitants, on a narrow plateau at the 
junction of the Mad and Naugatuck Rivers. The principal streets di- 
verge from Centre Square, a small but well-kept green, on which front 
two Cong, churches, the new and elegant building of the City Hall, and 
St. John's Episcopal Church. The latter is called the finest church in 
the State, and is built of granite and Ohio stone in the pointed Gothic 
style. The sharply pointed ceiUng is highly ornamented, and the spire 
(200 ft. higli) uplifts a massive stone cross. The Silas Bronson Library, 
the gift of a New York gentlemen, contains 13,000 volumes and is free to 
the citizens. St. Margaret's School (Episcopal diocesan) is on the hill 
near the square. 

Tlie manufacturing interests of the city employ a capital of neaily 
$ 8,000,000. $ 2,000,000 are invested in the brass-works, besides which 
there are 5 button-factories, 2 clock-factories, and works which turn out 
great quantities of wire, steel traps, hooks and eyes, hoop-skirts, and kero- 
sene fixtures. The American Pin Co., the Benedict and Buruham Mfg. Co., 



96 Route 12. KOIIWICIL 

and the Waterburv Brass Co., have their works here. Silver-i)lated ware 
is made, also tlie best quality of steel rolls. G M. N. E. (tri-weekly stage) 
is the ancient hill-town of Wolcott, Alcolt's "New Connecticut." 

There is a pleasant drive, much of the way on the quiet and embowered river-road, 
to tile Riverside Cemetery (l.^ M.), a pm;ill but picturesque rural ground among the 
forest-covered hills S. of the Naugatuck River. 

At W'aterbury the line crosses the Naugatu.ck 11. R. (see page 111), and runs S. W. 
and W. to llawleyville, on the Ilousatouic R. It. (,see page 11-i); Danbury (see page 
lltj); Brewster's (on the Harlem K II. and N. Y. City and Northern R. R.); Hope- 
well Junction (on the Newburgh, Dutche.ss, and Conn. R. R.) ; Fishkill, Matteawan, 
and b'ishkill-on-lludsou. At the latter point passengers are lerried across the liud- 
sou to Newburgh. 

12. New London to Vermont. 

Via the New London Northern Division of the Central Vermont Railroad, New 
London to Brattleboro', r.il M. Fare, •> 3.(30. 

The train leaves the Shore Line Station at New London. Beautiful 
views of the broad and expansive Thames on the E. ; so a seat should be 
secured on the r. side of the car. Near Mohegan is the old Mohegan i-eser- 
vation, wdiere 821 Indians of that tribe were numbered in 177-i. After 
passing Waterford, Montville, Massapeag, Mohegan, and Thamesville, 
the train crosses the Yantic River, and enters Norwich ( Waurefjan Ilmise, 
i$ 2.50 - $ 3.00, corner Main and Union Sts. ; Union-Square ; MetmpoHtan ; 
American House; Chelsea House). Norwich is a city of 22,000 inhab., 
with its streets terraced on a steep acclivity facing to the S. over the 
lake-like Thames, of which a local writer claims that "not Richmond 
Hill itself, or Greenwich observatory, looks on a Thames more fair." 
The situation of the city is indeed beautiful, being on high ground be- 
tween the Yantic and Shetncket Rivers, which here unite to form the 
Thames. The business part of Norwich is in a semicircle of which Main 
St., from Franklin Square to Central Wharf Bridge, is the chord, and 
beyond this the residence-streets rise in terraced lines. The banks, stores, 
ancl hotels are mostly in the district between Main St. and the rivers. 
The city and county buildings are neat aud substantial, and there are 
two or three fine churches. 

Washington St. and Broadway are noble avenues lined with large 
and secluded old mansions. The former street runs near the Yantic, 
passing the ivy-clad Christ Church (Epis.), and ends at Williams Park, or 
the Parade, near which is the mansion of the Revolutionary General Wil- 
liams, and the imposing building of the Free Academy. The latter is a 
mixed school, of high grade and of a wide reputation. Turning to the 1. 
from the Parade, Williams St. (opposite the Academy) leads to a pretty 
rural cemetery on the hills over the river. In this vicinity were the 
Yantic Falls, whose praises have been soimded by Mrs. Sigourney and 
others, both in prose and verse. A deep cutting in the hard rook, and 
curiously piled and water- worn boulders, are all that remain of "the 



NEW LONDON TO VEUMONT. Routs IS. 97 

beetling cliifs, the compressed channel, the confused mass of granite, and 
the roaring, foaming river," by which a former generation's "lone enthu- 
siasts wandered and dreamed." The river has been dammed and diverted 
into an ai'tiiicial channel, through which it affords a heavy water-power 
to a large chister of factories below. Fine wood-carving machinery, rub- 
ber goods, corks, iron pipes, files, blankets and carpets, Hax and twine, 
paper, envelopes, and cotton goods are manufactured in Norwich and its 
tributary villages. On Sachem St., near the site of the Falls, is a little 
cemetery in a cluster of pine-trees. This spot was chosen centuries ago 
as a sepulchral ground for the "blood royal of Mohegan," and has been 
carefully reserved by the tribe ever since. Many of the Grand Sachems 
are buried here, from those earlier chiefs of whom earthly history has no 
record down to Mazeen, the last of the line, who was buried in 1826 in 
the presence of 25-30 of the feeble remnant of tlae tribe. In the centre 
of the ancient monuments stands a massive obelisk erected to the memory 
of Uncas. (Its foimdation-stone was laid by President Jackson.) 

Uneas was a chief of the Pequot tribe, who revolted in 1634 against the Sachem 
Sassacus, and joined the Mohegans. He was chosen Sachem of tlie latter tribe, 
and by sagacious alliances with the Enghsh cohniists, lie steadily increased tlie 
power of his people, wlio had jireviously lield a subordinate position among the 
aboriginal clans. He led his warriors by the side of the colonial train-bands in 
the campaign of 1637, wliich annihihited his most dreaded foe, the Pequot ti'ibe ; 
and in 1643, he fouglit the jiowerful Narragansetts until the Anglo-Mohegau 
forces, under his direction, had defeated and iinmbled that tribe. He repelled an 
invasion of the Western Indians, aided by a strong Mohawk contingent, in 1648, 
and kept up an incessant war upon his Indian neighbors until he became "the 
most powerful and prosperous prince in New England." In 1640 he ceded to the 
colony of Conn, all his land except a tract on the W. shore of the Thames em- 
bracing three or lour townships, and sold (for £, 70) the present site of Norwich, 
which was occupied in 1660 by a nomadic church from Saybi'ook. He frequently 
visited the colonial capitals, Boston and Hartford, and ever remained friendly to 
tlie settlers, holding his people to peaceful ways while every other tribe of New 
England (except the Christian Indians) joined King Philip's league against the 
colonies. After reigning as Sachem of the Mohegans for nearly 50 years, he died 
in 1683, a consistent Pagan to the last. He was crafty, cruel, and rapacious in 
his policy ; but as the head of a savage people, he was sagacious and far-sighted, 
and as a military leader he was skilfid and fearless. It is difficult to tell what 
would have been the course of New England history, or what final and over- 
wlielining disasters might have blotted out tiiose feeble colonies along the coast, 
luul not the two great southern tribes been ruined by the attacks (somedmes 
aided by a few dozen English nmsketeers) of the Mohegans under their Sachem, 
Uncas. Beyond the village of Greenville is Sacliem's Plain (1.V-2M. from 
Norwich. Horse-cars most of the way). Here was fougiit a battle between Mi- 
antonomoli and 900 Narragansetts, and Uncas with 500 Mohegans. 

Miantonomoh was the nephew of Canouicus, and in 1636 succeeded to the gov- 
ernment of the Narragansetts. He was ever a firnr friend to the colonists, grant- 
ing them a large portion of the present State of Rhode Island, and leaving his 
quarrels with Uncas to their arbitration. In 1642 he went to Boston to meet 
certain men who had accused him of planning hostilities against the colonies. 
He awaited his accusers in th3 presence of the Governor and council of Massa- 
chusetts, but no charges were preferred against him, and he left Boston after re- 
ceiving high honors from Gov. Winthro]), who admired his chara(!ter. In the 
following year, stung to madness by insults offered by Uncas, he led 900 Narra- 
gansett warriors in an attack on Mohegan. Uncas and 500 men met him on 
Sachem's Plain, and in accordance with a plan preconcerted by the Mohegan 
5 ^ 



98 Rovic 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. 

chiefs, invited him to a parley. While this parley was going on, and the Narra- 
gansetts were off their guard, the Mohegans made a fierce and sudden attack and 
scattered them in al! directions. The pursuit was continued for many niile.s, and 
hunilreds of the invaders fell, but Miantonomoh was captured and led prisoner to 
Hartford. After remaining here in close confinement, he was surrendered to Un- 
cas, by whom, "by the advice and consent of the Enghsh magistrates and elders," 
he was executed. The royal Narragansett was carried by Uncas and his warriors 
from Hartford to Norwicli, and was put to death on the battle-field of Sacliem's 
Plain, at a place now marlved by a stone monument inscribed " Miantonomoli, 
1643." He was a brave, magnanimous, and humane Sachem, incapable of dissim- 
ulation or treachery, and therefore he became their victim. 

For many years his people came hither in the season of flowers and adorned his 
grave, eacli of them leaving a stone u]ion it. Tlie lofty cairn thus formed re- 
mained till a farmer (of the English " Hodge " tyjie) carried av/ay the stones to 
make a foundation for a new barn. In 18-11, the i^resent granite monument was 
erecfted. 

Nanunteno, the son of Miantonomoh, and his successor in the government, 
ever cherished a just hatred of the colonists, and joined King Pliilip's league with 
enthusiasm. Having been made prisoner, in 1676, he was offered pardon in case 
he would treat with the English. On declining to make tenns, he was threatened 
with instant death, whereupon he answered, " I like it well ; I shall die before my 
heart is soft, or I have spoken anything unworthy of myself" ; "acting herein," 
says Cotton Mather, "as if, by a Pythagorean metempsychosis, some old Roman 
ghost had possessed the body of this Western Pagan, like Attilius Regulus." He 
was instantly shot. 

About 5 M. S. of Norwich is the old fortress of Uncas, on the highest hill in 
Mohegan, and in the vicinity live the few half-breeds who are all that remain of 
the tribe of Uncas. President Dwight's remark about the Pequots at Grotou will 
apply equally well to the Mohegans or to the Narragansetts in Charlestown, R. I., 
"the former proud, heroic spirit of tlie Pequot is shrunk into the tameness and 
tor]ior of reasoning lirutism." 

Steamers leave Norwich every morning, in summer, for New London and Watch 
Hill, Block Island, and Fisher's Island. 

After leaving Norwicli the line passes the stations Norv/ich Town, Yan- 
tic, Franklin, and Lebanon. The village of Lebanon, situated in a rich 
farming district, was very lively during the War for Independence. Jon- 
athan Trumbull, Governor of Conn. 1769 - 83, resided here, and here was 
the War Office of the State, which furnished more men and money in the 
Revolutionary War than any other State save Massachusetts. Gov. 
Trumbull was Washington's right-hand man during the northern cam- 
paigns, and when any perplexing qiiestion or pressing demand arose, the 
noble Virginian would often say, " Let us see what Brother Jonathan 
says." The name " Brother Jonathan " has passed into universal use as 
a humorous designation of the U. S., corresponding to the "John Bull " 
which is applied to England. At the gubernatorial mansion in Lebanon, 
Trumbull received Washington, Lafayette, Rochambeau, Jefferson, 
Franklin, and other distinguished men. Five French regiments were can- 
toned in the town and reviewed by the commander-in-chief, while De 
Lauzun's Legion (500 horsemen) Avintered here. Tlie Trund:)ull mansion 
juid War Office are still standing, and in the little cemetery E. of the vil- 
lage is the family vaidt. 

The most prominent of the Trumliulls are Jonathan, Gov. of Conn. 1760-83 ; 
Jonathan, his sou, M. C. in 1789-05, U. S. Senator in 1705-6, and Governor in 
1793-1809; Joseph, another son, ccunaissary-gencral of the Continental Army; 



T>ni:\V LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 99 

Joseph, .crrandson of " Brother Jonathan," 5 years M. C. , and 2 years Gov. of Conn. ; 
Ljnnan Trunibull (born near Lebanon in 1813), the einhient jurist and U. feJ. Sena- 
tor from Illinois, 1855-72 ; and Col. John Trumbull (some time of the 1st Conn., 
and afterwards aide to Washington), who studied painting under West, in Lon- 
don, and executed many large historical pictures, depicting scenes of the Revolu- 
tionary era. Four of his worlcs are in tlie rotunda of the National Capitol, and a 
good collection of Ifts i)aintings is in t!ie Atlien;euin at Hartford. The ^Vi't Gal- 
lery of Yale College has a large number of his minor worlcs, 57 in all. 

The line now leaves the Yantic Valley, runs along the horder of the 
Shetncket, and, passing S. Windham, stops at Willimantic (see Eoute 11). 
At this point the New York 

and New England tracks cross the New London Northern Railroad. 

Running N. from Willimantic, the line follows the Willimantic River, 
through the county of Tolland. Stations, S. Coventry, Eagleville (with 
large sheeting manufactories), and Mansfield, with four companies engaged 
in making sewing-silk, a j)rofitable industry which was inaugurated here 
in the last ceutiiry. Stations, Merrow, S. Willington, and Tolland, about 
4 M. W. of which is a sequestered village containing the modest county 
buildmgs. Stafford is celebrated for its mineral springs, the ]:)rincipal 
one being among the best of chalybeate springs. It contains considerable 
iron in solution, with carbonic acid and natron, and is a pleasant water to 
the taste. It is held to be very efficacious in all cutaneous affections. 
Tlie other spring, which is charged with hydrogen gas and sulphur, has 
become choked up, and has long been disused. The Indians were in the 
habit of using these waters with beneficial effect, and the whites began to 
visit the springs about 110 years ago. 

The Stafford Springs House is a large and inexpensive hotel near the 
chalybeate spring, on the 1. of the track. 

The train now runs N. for 10 M. across the sparsely populated to-wn of 
Stafford, and at State Line it enters the State of Massachusetts. The 
to-\vn of Monson is next crossed (11 M.). Much manufacturing is done 
here aloag a branch of the Chicopee River, and a fine granite quarry is to 
be seen near the central station, from which great quantities of stone have 
been sent to Albany for the new State House. The extensive buildings 
of the State Primary School are in tliis town, on a farm of 260 acres, and 
there are over 400 pupils. The scenery here is picturesque, and culmi- 
nates in tlie bold heights of Peaked and Moon Mts. The village (Mon- 
son House) is pleasantly situated on high ground, and has a bank, an 
academy (150 pu})ils), 3 churches, a hat-factory, and several woollen- 
mills. The town has 3,400 inhabitants. 

At Palmer tlie line crosses the Chicopee River and the Boston k Al- 
bany R. R. Stages run S. E. to Parksville, 5 M. ; Brinifield, 9 ; 
E. Brinifield, 12 ; Fiskdale, 14^ ; Sturbridge, IG^ ; and Southbridge, 20. 
Brimjield is a hilly farming town with 1,201 inhabitants and a soldiers' 
monument (Brinifield House; see page 130). Stages run to Wales (Wales 
Hotel), 4i M. S., near the far-viewing Mt. Hitchcock, a grazing town, with 
1,000 inhabitants. Holland (Holland Hotel) is a farming town, 4| M. S. 



100 Route 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. 

Stations, Three Rivers; BarretVs Junction, M'here the Springfield, 
Athol & Northeastern R. R. is crossed; and Belchertown {Belcher 
House), a hill-town devoted to farming, with 2,315 inhabitants, a public 
library, a high-school, and 3 churches. It lias several hold eminences 
and handsome ponds. The settlement took place in 1731, and was named 
Cold Spring, after a large fountain within its borders. 

After running across Belchertown (13 M. ) the train passes S. Amherst 
and stops at 

Amherst {Amherst House, $2.50 a day, ^ M. from the station), o 
pretty village situated in a romantic district, and distinguished fo: 
its college. Its society is of tliat culturetl and refined order which iy 
usually found in American academic towns, and its jestlietic taste is seen 
in the fine architecture of its cliurches (notably Grace Church and the 
1st Congregational). The buildings of Amherst College (founded in 
1821) are located on a hill on the edge of the village to the S. On the 
street W. of the buildings are the President's House, the Library, and 
College Hall. The curious octagonal structure with a bright blue dome, 
which stands in advance of the line of college halls, is devoted to the dis- 
play of rare collections. Part of it is occupied by the Lawrence Observ- 
atory, and on the upper story are the great * cabinets of minerals and 
meteorites prepared and collected by Prof. C. U. Shepard, a disciple of 
Silliman, Avho has been for the last 45 years one of the leading physicists 
of America. These collections "are only surpassed by those of the Brit- 
ish Mu.seum and the Imperial Cabinet at Vienna." They rej^resent an 
immense value, some single pieces having cost thoiisands of dollars. The 
largest ruby in the woi'ld is shown here, being 2 ft. high by 1 ft. in diam- 
eter. It was found in N. Carolina. A sapphire, in the cabinet, weiglis 
30 lbs., and many other rare and costly specimens are here preserved. 
On the lower floor is Wood's Cabinet of geology and paleontology, em 
bracing over 20,000 specimens. The Nineveh Gallery opens out of Wood'i 
Cabinet, and contains many Oriental and Indian relics, togetlier with a 
collection of rare coins and medals. Along the walls of tliis room are 
arranged a succession of large * Assyrian sculptures from the palace of 
Sardanapalus, at Nineveh. E. of this building is the line of the older col- 
lege-halls, N. College, the old Chapel, and S. College. These are in the 
early Novanglian architecture, and closely resemble the older halls of 
Harvard. At the S. end of this line is the Appleton Cabinet, whose up- 
per story, surrounded by barbarous frescos, contains several collections 
embracing 5,900 species of animals and 8,000 species of shells, prepared 
by Prof. Adams, of Amherst, the conchologist. An Herbarium (in the 
old cha})el) contains 4-5,000 kinds of plants ; and the Gilbert Museum 
of Indian Relics is on the ground-floor of Appleton. The new Pratt 
Gymnasium is N. of the campus. The library has received a large fire- 
proof annex. IMost of the Shepard collections (above mentioned) were 
destroyed by fire in 1882. » 



NSW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 101 

On the lower floor is a hall 110 ft. long by 45 ft. wide, wherein are kept 
9,000 specimens of ancient tracks in stone. This wonderful * collection 
is by far the largest in the world, and well illustrates the science of ich- 
nology which iirst arose at Andierst. The tracks of birds, beasts, and 
reptUes, which have been dead perhaps a myriad of years, and tlie marks 
of the pattering of raiu-storms which fell through the silent air of pre- 
historic ages, are here preserved on the sandstone of the Connecticut 
valley. 

E.lwaril Hitchcock, D. D., the founder of ichnological science, was born at 
Deorlield Mass in 179:^. He was connected with Amherst CoUege, either as 
professor or president, from 1825 to 1865, and planned and executed the geological 
survev of Mass.. "the first survey of an entire State under the authority of gov- 
ernment in the world." He published 20-25 volumes, mostly on geological sub- 
jects, of which the "Elementary Geology" and the "Religion oi Geology 
passed througli manv editions in America and England. "Ihe Ichnology ot 
New England," published by the State in 1858, illustrated and explained the 
branch of science which he founded. 

Amherst College is under the auspices of the Congregational Church, and has 
about 350 students, with libraries of 50,000 volumes. Morning stages run from 
Amherst to Hadley and Northampton ; afternoon stages to Shutesbury, near the 
Mount Mineral Springs. 

E. of the verdant lawn and overlooking the valley is the new and 
elegant * Memorial Chapel, whose exterior is a beautiful model of Gothic 
architecture. It is cruciform in shape with finely finished rose-windows 
in the transept, and colonettes of polished Scotch granite at various points 
on the outside. The graceful spire is built (as well as the Chapel walls) 
of stone, and within the tower is a marble tablet, containing the names 
of the alumni and past students of Amlierst who fell in the War for the 
Union. From the E. side of the chapel is obtained a pleasing view of the 
rich valley E. of Amherst. The Barret Gymnasium is near the E. College, 
and the N. side of the prospective quadrangle is occupied by two fine 
stone buildings; the Walker Hall, a tasteful and ornate structure sur- 
mounted by a spired observatory, and fronted by an elegant portico, 
formed by five Gothic arches supported on coupled columns ; and the 
Williston Hall, a snltstantial brick building. Before leaving the College 
Hill, the College Tower should be ascended for the sake of the * view, 
which is one of the most beauliful in New England, extending over parts 
of the rich Conn, valley and over the rugged and picturesque towns of 
eastern Hampshire. The Art Gallery is in Williston Hall, and has a 
rich collection of casts, ilhistrative of every school and jjcriod of sculp- 
ture. On the opposite side of Amherst, and about 1 M. from tlie Green, 
is the Massachusetts Agricultural College. Its handsome buildings are 
on the edge of a rich plain, from which fine views are obtained of the 
mountains on the W. and S. On the experimental farm of 400 acres is 
the Durfee Plant-House, where many rare and valuable plants are 
preserved. The ''Aggies " (as the students here are called by the other 
New England collegians) are drilled to a high state of discipline (infantry 



102 Route 12. NORTIIFIELD. 

and liglit artillery) by military instructors; and of such a nature is the 
field-work, that this has become the best agricultural school in America. 

Excursions are made from Amherst to Mt. Norwottuck (4 1\I.), North- 
ampton (7 M. ), iMounts Holyoke, Tom, and Sugar-Loaf . Mt. Toby (1,000 ft. 
high) is ascended by a carriage-road, and has a hotel and observatory 
on top, Aviiere pure air and quiet are found. The views from the tower 
are broad and beautiful. R. R. station, Mt. Toby or IMuntague. 

Beyond Amherst are the stations N. AmhersI, Jft. Tooy, and Leverett. 
The latter is situated in the midst of very picturesque scenery. The line 
now passes through Montague, with the Hunting Hills on the E. Stations, 
Muntivjue and Miller's Fall.-!, Avhere the Vt. and Mass. R. R. (Route 25) 
and IMilicr's River are'<;rossed. Stations, NorthJIdd Farms and then 
Northfieid {Norihfeld llotd), a charming village with broad streets, on 
a plateau above the intervales along the Conn. River. This peaceful agri- 
cultural town was settled in 1GG3, on the Indian lands called Squawkeague. 
During King Philip's War frequent and fierce attacks Avere made upon it 
by the Indians, and troops conveying supplies were ambushed and cut to 
pieces. "When Major Treat, with his "flying army" of Conn, soldiers, 
reached the place, its people evacuated it, and passed, under his escort, to 
a ])lace of safety. It was reoccupied in 1685, but Indian attacks soon 
compelled the decimated settlers to leave, and it lay desolate until 1712, 
when the erection of Fort Dummer afforded sure defence. I) wight L. 
Moody, the evangelist, was born and lives here ; and near liis house stands 
the girls' seminary which he founded, 1 INI. N. of the village, and with a 
noble view. 5 M. distant, in Gill, is Moody's Mt. Hermon School for 
Boys, with 300 acres of land and half a dozen buildings. The main street 
of Northfield, 2 jNI. long, between t!ie river and the mountains, is 200 ft. 
Avide, lined with ancient houses and quadruple rows of grand ehn-trees. 
Many summer-boarders sojourn here. The broad intervales and the quiet 
Connecticut River are crossed between Northiield and ^5'. Wrnon. 

At S. Vernon a connection is made with the Ashuelot Railroad, which passes 
the stations, Hinsdale, Asliuelot, AVinchester, Westford, and Swuuzey (all in New 
Hampshire), and at Keene connects with tlie Cheshire Railroad. Hinsdale was 
settled by Mass. i)eople in 1683, and was the site of Hinsdale's and Bridgnian's 
Forts. Throngliout the early border-wars it was the scene of numerous atbieivs 
and skirmislies, but was boldly held as the outpost of colonial civilization. Hins- 
dale is now a prosperous town, through which the Ashuelot River flows to the 
Connecticut. From Mine Mt., a few years ago, volcanic signs were seen, and a 
lava-lilce substance was thrown out. An ancient Indian fort is situated on a hiU 
near the river, and isohited from the plateau by a deep, broad trench. Winchester 
was granted by, and settled from, Mass. in 1733, under the name of Arlingtun, and 
was totally destroyed by an Indian attack in 1745. Swanzey is a large and thinly 
populated town, settled under the same circumstances, and destroyed at the same 
time as Wimdiester. 

At S. Vernou the Conn. River Railroad from Springfield terminates. 

From S. Vernon the New London Northern track runs N. about 9 M. 
through the town of Vernon (seats on the r. side of the car command a 
view of the fertile intervales of the Connecticut, and of the river itself). 
This is one of the oldest towns of Vermont, and scores of its early set- 



BRATTLEBORO'. Route 12. 103 

tiers were killed by the hostile Indians. The next station is Brattlehcro', 
120 M. from New London. 

Hotels. — * Brooks House, the best in Vermont, acconnnoflating 175-200 
guestis, y 3 -3.50 a day. Brattltboro^ House ; American House. 

In 1724 the Legislature of Mass. liad a fort built near the river and about 1 M. 
S. of the present village. This fort, called Fort Dummer, was garrisoned by 
troops of the colony and friendly Indians, and served as a shield "for the river- 
towns. Though often atta('ked, it was never lost. The first settlement in tlio 
State was located here under the protection of the fort, and but two or three 
small villages were established in the S. part until the conquest of Canada, after 
whirli, IVoin 17(50 to 1768, l;38 townsliips were granted in Vermont. In 1703, tlio 
village near Fort Dummer was named Brattleborough, in honor of Col. Brattle, a 
distinguished Bostoniau, who was one of its proprietors. 

Brattleboro' is a large village, well and compactly built, at the junction 
of Whetstone Brook (whicli affords a considerable water-power) with the 
Connecticut. The location of the village is beautiful, being on an uneven 
plateau above the great river, and surrounded by lofty hills. Main St., 
the principal thoroughfare, is near and parallel to the river, and 100 ft. 
above it. The Brook, with its numerous factories, is near the station, in 
the S. of the village. A beautiful view of Brattleboro' and its mountain- 
ampitheatre is enjoyed from Cemetery Hill, an eminence just S. of the 
town. The opposite side of the river is filled by the dark and frowning 
masses of Mine and Wantastiquet Mts. At the N. end of the village is a 
pretty park, on the edge of the plateau, whence a charming vievv^ of the 
mountains is gained, while the placid river is seen gliding between its 
broad and fertile intervales. Below the park, in the valley, is the Ver- 
mont Asylum for the Insane, a well-conducted institution, connected with 
which is a farm of 600 acres, which is carried on by tlie inmates of the 
Asylum. From various points (back of St. JMichael's Church, &c.) on the 
riverward side of the plateau, pretty views of tlie river and Wantastiquet 
Mt. are obtained. Tiie Estey Coltage-Ort/an Works are the lai'gest in the 
world, occupying 9 sliops, with a capacity of 20,000 organs a year. 

The monument to James Fisk, Jr., is in the cemetery, and is much visited. It 
was executed by Mead, at a cost of -i^ 25,000, and bears emblematic female statues 
representing Navigation, the Drama, Railroads, and Connnerce. 

Daniel Webster was a freciuent visitor to Brattlebf^o', and at present it is the 
home of Holbrook, the VVar-Sovernor of Vermont, and Gen. J. W. Phelps, a vet- 
eran of tlie Mexican and Secession Wars, who first enlisted and disciplined ne- 
groes in the armies of the Union. Among those born here were Wilbur Fisk. 
the Methodist divine, who twice refused a bishoiiric, and was President of Mid- 
dletown University, 1830-39; R. M. Hunt, the architect; W. M. Hunt, the 
painter of genre pictures ; and Larkin G. Mead, tlie sculptor, who, while yet a 
mere lad, worked one long winter night on a snow-figure at the head of Main St. ; 
and on the next morning (Ncm' Year's) the citizens were startled to see there a 
statue of the " Recording Angel" modelled in purest snow. 

In W. Brattleboro' (Glen House, Vermont House) is the Glenwood Seminary, in 
a romantic site (stages three times daily). 

A bridge crosses the river here, and a road runs into hilly Hinsdale, N. of which 
is the i>icturesque town of Chesterfield (N. H.), from whose level uplands mucli 
corn and hay is obtained by unwearied labor. Spotford Lake, in Chesterfiehl 
(7-8 M. from Brattleboro'), is a beautiful sheet of water 8 M. around, said by 
Howells to possess natural charms equal to those of the Italian lakes. 



104 Route 13. NORWICH TO NASHUA. 

The Brattleboro' and TVhitehall K. R. runs N. W. to Londonderry , 36 M., 

in 2,^-4 lirs., passing 11^. Dummcrslon (small inn): Wllliamsrille (iuu ; daily 
stages to JJover); Newfane ( Windliam-Co. House), the shire-town ; Townshend 
(West-River House; daily stages to Grafton, 9 M.); ]V. Totcnshend (daily stages 
to Windham and Chester); Wardfihoro (two inns); Jamaica (Jaimiica House; 
tri-weekly stages to Manchester, 18 M.); Winhall ; and S. Londonderry (Pen- 
hody House). 3 M. N. is Lnndonderry (Sanborn's; Lowell-Lake House), whence 
daily stages run to N. ^V'indham and Chester, and triweekly stages to Laudgrove, 
Peru, and Manchester (151 M.). 

Daily stages run from Brattleboro' W. to W. Brnttlehoro\2 M. : Marlboro\ 10 M. : 
W. Marlboro', 14 M. ; Wilmlnriton (Vermont House), 20 M. ; Searsburgh, 26 M.- 
Woodford, 35 M. : and Bennington, 42 M. Also, S. W. to Shelburne Falls (Mass.) 
via Halifax (cascades on North River, and Dun's Den, 25 ft. long, 5 ft. wide and high, 
in solid rock) in 27 M. ; to Shelburne Falls (45 M.) via \\'hitingham,in which are the 
Sadawga Springs, with a hotel, near Sadawga Lake, in whose vicinity, in a poor log- 
hut, the heiesiarch Brighaui Young was born in ISOl. 

From Brattleboro' the Central Vermont Railroad runs N. to Montreal, Quebec, 
and upper Vermont (Route 20). 

13. Norwich to Nashua. 

Via Norwich and Worcester Division, New York and New England Railroad, and 
Worcester and Nashua Railroad. Distance, 108 M. ; fare, $3.55. 

Norwich to Putnam, see Route 19. Station, Thompson (good hotel), a 
pretty village 1 M. from the station, much resorted to in summer, and 
abounding in neat villas. Stations, Grosvenordale, N. Grosvenordale, 
Wilsondale, after which the train crosses to Webster, in Mass. {Joslin 
House, Sheldon House). lu this vicinity is a great, island-studded pond, 
which enjoys two names, — Chabonakongkomon and Chargoggagoggman- 
choggagogg. About this lake were the Elysiau Fields of the Nipmuck 
Indians and the reputed home of the Great Spirit. The town has 5,050 
inhabitants and 7 churches, and makes shoes and textile goods. Both 
at Webster and N. Webster are large manufactories. Station, Ox- 
ford, a pretty village, on the Indian lands called Maucharge. 2 M. S. E. 
of the station is Fort Hill, bearing the remains of a bastioned fort built 
by a community of French Huguenots who settled here in 1683. 13 
years later, an Indian irruption so alarmed them that they abandoned 
the place, and lived in Boston for many years. Oxford Centre has large 
shoe manufactories, and several cotton and woollen mills are in the town. 

A monument stands on the site of the Huguenot fort in Oxford (Oxford 
House). Stations, N. Oxford, Auburn, S. Worcester, and Worcester. 

Trains connect at Webster for Southbridge and E. Thompson ; at Worcester, for 
Boston, Albany, Providence, Gardner, Fitchburg, &c. The Mass, Central R. R. 
crosses at Oakdale. 

The train runs on high terraces through W. Boylston, a picturesque 
town which was settled in 1720, and has 2,902 inhabitants, and 5 churches, 
with several factories at Oakdale {Oakdale House). Boylston is a diver- 
sified fanning town, 3-4 M. E. From Sterling Junction the Worcester 
and Fitchburg R. R. diverges to Fitchburg (14 INI). Sterling {Central 
Hotel) has 3 churches, large dairies, and high lulls. 



PEPPERELL. Route 13. 105 

Beyond the Waushaccum Ponds (1.) and Clinton Ponds tlie train crosses 
the GUI Colon}- R. R. (N. Div.) at Clinton {Clinton House), a prosperous 
village of 8,000 inhabitants, with 2 papers, 5 churches, a library, a bank, 
and a Memorial Hall which cost $90,000. It has manufactories of fine 
Brussels and Wilton carpets, quilts, wire-netting, ginghams, ] laids, 
combs, and cotton goods, S. Lancaster station is near the State Indus- 
trial School for Girls ; and Lancaster (* Lancaster House) is a beautiful 
old village on the highlands near Ballard Hill, with broad and elm-lined 
streets, 2 churches, a bank, a public library (8,000 vols.), ''^nd a Memo- 
rial Hall to commemorate its dead soldiers. 

This town was settled in 1653, and in 1676 was attacked by Kinor riiilip and 
1,500 Indians, who besieged and burnt the pastoi-'s housn, killing 22 and captur- 
iiij; 20 jieojile. Several other attacks followed, and in 1704 the town was swept 
bj' 500 French and Indians. 

Beyond Still River is Harvard {Harvard Hotel), a picturesque high- 
land farming village (stages to village, 2 M.), much visited in summer, 
and near the far-viewing Prospect Hill, and the island-studded, fish- 
a1)0unding, Bare-Hill Pond. To the N. are the deep and sequestered 
Hell and Robbins Ponds. A Shaker community is in the N. E. part of 
the town. Ayer Junction (see Route 2,5). The next station is Groton 
Centre, a pretty village in a country of hills and lakes. 

It was attacked in 1676, by the Saehem Monoco at the liead of 400 Indians, 
and 40 houses and the chui-ch were burnt, thou^li the ])eople repulsed all attacks 
from their refuge in 4 garrisondiouses. This sanie sarheni boasted to the be- 
sieired tliat he was marching on Concord and Boston, to destroy those towns. 
Within a year he was indeed in Boston, but as a captive, led through the streets 
with a rope around his neck, and afterwai-ds hung on tlie Common. Hon. G. S. 
Boutwell, Gov. of Mass., 1851 - 3, and Se(;retary of the U. S. Treasury, 1869- 73, 
was for many years a merchant in this town. Groton is the seat of Lawrence 
Academy. 

Station, Pepperell (Prescott House ; the village is across the Nashua 
River, W. of the station), a town named after Sir Wm. Pepperell, the 
first New England baronet, by its fii-st pastor, who was a chaplain in his 
Louisburg expedition. S. W. of the village is the curious hill called 
"The Throne," while to the N. are the picttu'esque Hills of Missitisset. 
This is a quiet village with an old church, whose bell, according to an old 
New England custom, tolls out the number of the letters in the name, 
and of years in the age, of each villager when he or she dies. 

Pepperell has 2,500 inhabitants, 4 churches, 180 farms, an imposing town- 
hall, and large paper-mills. Daily stages run 7 M. N. W. to Brookline, 
N. H. The old Prescott mansion is on a broad domain 2|- M. from the vil- 
lage. This was founded by Col. Wm. Prescott, who led the Middlesex minute- 
men to Cambridge, and commanded the Americans at the battle of Bunker Hill, 
where the Pepperell Co. lost 16 men. He left the reiioubt within push of bay- 
onet of the British, warding olf their thrusts by his flashing sword. His sou, 
Judge Wm., succeeded to the estate, and from him it was inherited by his son, 
Wm. Hickling Pi-escott, who here wrote a great part of his noble historical woi'ks. 
His son now owns the estate. 

Soon after leaving Pepperell the Line enters the State of New Hamp- 
5* 



106 Route U. MIDDLETOWX. 

sliire. Station, Hollis, 3 M. S. E. of the village of tliat name (stages 
to all trains) which gave 250 men to the Continental Armies. Soon after 
the tram enters the city of Nashua (.see Route 26). 

14. Saybrook to Hartford and Springfield. 

To the city of H.Trtford in 47 M. Fare, !? 1.05. Tliis route follows the W. 
Lanlc of the Conn. River, and a seat on the r. side of the car atl'ords pleasing 
views of the river and the villages on its shores. 

For Saybrook Point see Route 8. After leaving Sa\'brook and crossing 
the Shore Line R. R. (Route 8), at the Junction, the line runs N. W. 
through the old limits of Saybrook, with tlie river close at hand. The 
soil of this town is enriched by piling thereon great quantities of white- 
fish, which are caught off its sliore.s, and sold for a triHing sum per thou- 
sand. Stations, Essex, Deep River, S. Chester, Chester (rich farming 
country, with an Episcoiml academy dating from 1792), Goodspeed's (vil- 
lage across the river), Arnold's (near which the village of E. Haddam is 
seen on the E. bank), and Haddam. Near Arnold's, the mouth of Sal- 
mon River is seen on the E. bank, and 30 Mile, or Lord's Island divides 
the Connecticut some distance above. The ancient territory of the 
" fierce and warlike " Wongung Lidians embraced Haddam and E. Had- 
dam. They parted with their birthright for 30 coats, and the land was 
settled byi^eople from Hartford. Quarries of some imi^ortance have been 
worked here, and the annual catch of shad is considerable. Stations, 
Walkley Hill, Higgauum (a thriving river-landing and ferry), Maromas, 
and Middletown. 

Middletown {* McDoywugh House, 150 guests), " the Forest City," is a 
beautiful academic city, Ijuilt on gromid gently rising from the river at 
the bottom of a great bend. Its maritime interests are along the wharves 
which run out from Water St. ; the seat of trade and of the hotels is on 
Main St. ; while High St. is above all, and is lined with fine houses and 
carefully kept gardens. The Custom House and Court House (of Middle- 
sex Co. ) are plain stone buildings, and there are several handsome churches 
in the city. The manufactures include pumps, Avebbmg, and tape ($ 600,000 
a year), rules and chisels, sewing-machines, and several companies make 
britannia and silver-plated ware. The safe and convenient harbor (10 ft. 
of water at the wharves) renders this the last port on the river for heavy 
vessels. 

The campus of Wesleyan TJniversity fronts on High St. (which, with 
its double lines of stately trees, Charles Dickens called the finest rural 
street he had ever seen). The University appertains to the ^Methodist sect, 
and sustains a high reputation. The Eclectic Hall and the Greek-letter chap- 
ter-houses (especially the Alplux Delta Phi) are worthy of notice. Besides 
the old buildings in the usual Novunglian style, there are three fine new 



SAYBROOK TO HARTFORD. Route I4. 107 

edifices of Portland sandstone. Ricli Hall contains the library of about 
35,000 voliunes. Judd Hall (the gift of Orange Judd, tlie agriculturalist) 
is a finely finislied building, containing admirable natural-history collec- 
tions. Some of tliese cabinets are unexcelled in America, having been 
collected and arranged by scientists who have spent years in special 
studies. Casts of skeletons and parts of colossal animals whose species 
liave long been extinct are arranged here. The Memorial Chapel is a 
fme work of arcliitecture. Its lower room is used for daily college 
prayers, while above is tlie church proper, with memorial windows Avliich 
cost % 700 each. 

That on the left is in honor of tlie ]iast students v/ho died as soldiers of the 
Union, and bears the Insci'iiitions, " The beauty of Lsracl i.j slain upon her hi^Ii 
places"; "It is sweet and litting to die for one's fatherland," in the Latin of 
Horace; "The earth is a grave of heroes," in the Greek o.' Homer. Under the 
s^anbolic figure of a pelican are the names of the slain. The Wesleyan Guard 
(Co. G., 4th Conn. Reg.) went from the University, On the r. opposite is a win- 
dow bearing portraits of four presidents of the University : Wilbur Fisk, D. D. 
(1330-39) ; Stephen Olin, D. D., author of "Travels in the East," &c. (1842-51) ; 
Nathan Bangs, D. D., an itinerant minister, lSOl-20, agent and editor of the 
Book Concern, 1820-36, and afterwards President of the University ; and A. W. 
Smith, LL. D., a jn-ominent mathematician. The University has 19 in- 

structors and 209 students. 

The * vieAv from the tower of the old chapel is delightful, embracing 
the bay-like river and its riparian hills, the city below, and the busy quar- 
ries at Portland, the long and imposing buildings of the Insane Asylum 
on a liill in the S., the Industrial School, and tlie rolling hills to the W. 
On this hill was the far-viewing fortress of Elattabesick, the aboriginal 
chief Sowheag, and around its base the Massachusetts immigrants settled 
in 1653. Erissot de Warville, a French tourist (in 17SS), asserted that 
" from the hill over Middletown is one of the finest and richest prospects 
in America." The villas and gardens of High St. extend on each side of 
the campus, and not far from it is the Indian Hill Cemetery, with a hand- 
some sepulcliral chapel at the entrance, and faie views from its hills over 
leagues of farm-studded valleys. Here is buiied Gen. J. K. F. Mans- 
field, Avho stormed Monterey, v.^as highly distinguislied at Buena Vista, 
fortified Washington City (ISGl), and was mortally wounded while leading 
his corps at Antietam. In this vicinity is the Industrial School for Girls, 
a model institution with fine buildings surroundeil by broad lands, wliere 
the inmates are given three hours daily for study, and do their own work . 

On a high hill 1^ M. S. E. of the city are the vast and imposing build- 
ings of the State General Hospital for tlie Insane. The main building 
is of Portland stone, and has a length of 7G3 ft. with accommodations for 
4.50 patients. It stands on spacious grounds which cover 230 acres of the 
hill, and commands a fine view of the city and the widenings of the river. 

Farther down the river are points often visited by geologists. Feldspar is 
found here in sucli quantities as to make it an item of trade, as it is used in mak- 
ing porcelain. The lead mines so actively woriced during the Revolution have 
long been abandoned. 



108 Route 15. MIDDLETOWN. 

On Main St. near the McDonongli House is the Berkeley Divinity 
School, an Episcopal institution under the presidency of Bishop Williams. 
It was founded in 1850, has graduated 193 men, and has six ])ro- 

fessors and 25 students. The Chapel of St. Luke is a small hut beautiful 
Gothic structure, built of stone and adorned Avitli rich stained windows. 
The stiidents attend service in goAvns, and their singing is fine. Near by 
and on Main St. is the elegant Church of the Holy Trinity (Episcopal) built 
of Portland stone, with a graceful timber roof. The N. and S. Congrega- 
tional churches are fine buildings^ and I\Iain St. has three banks, built in 
the style of bank-architecture peculiar to New England, — with one high, 
solid story, of stone or brick. The quaint little Parthenon which is used 
for a Court House is on the same street. 

Near tlie N. end of Jlain St. (with its large Roman Catholic churcli) is the pier of 
the Portland ferry. The quarries of red sandstone at Portland are of continental 
fame, and are situated near the pier at the other end of the ferry, whence also is 
gained a fine view of Middletown and the graceful Air Line Railroad bridge. The 
first quarry approached is the deepest, and from the sharp edge of the hill one can 
look down into a vast chasm from which has been taken the material for Inui- 
dreds of fine buildings, and for fronts of long blocks in nearly every Atlantic city. 
The second quarry is the largest and oldest ; and beyond this is a third. These 
works employ 800 men, great numbers of draught-animals, and 40 vessels. The 
stone is easy to work, of a durable character, and of a rich shade of brown. 

The New Haven, Middletown, and Willimantic R. R. , runs from the former 
city to Middletown, and here crosses the Connecticut River on a fine iron bridge. 

A branch track leaves the New Haven and Springfield Railroad at Berlin, and 
runs 10 M. S. E. to Middletown. 

The steamers between Hartford and New York stop at this point, generally late 
in the afternoon, and then proceed down the river, from whose mouth Middle- 
town is 34 M. distant. 

After leaving Middletown the Conn. Valley Railroad runs N. about 15 
M. passing through the towns of Cromwell, Ptocky Hill, and Wethersfield, 
and enters the city of Hartford. Beyond Hartfoixl tlie Conn. Central 
R. R. runs through the town E. of the Conn. Riv^er, to Springfield, in li 
hours. This is now the Springfield Division, N. Y. & N. E. R. R. 

15. New Haven to Northampton. 

Via N. H. and N. R. R., in 84 M. 

Tills line is olten called the Canal R. R., since it follows the line of the old 
Farmington Canal for a considerable distance. It runs tlirough a quiet agricul- 
tural country, and terminates near the W. centre of Jlassachusetts, on the line 
of the (projected) IVIass. Central R. R. Shortly after its completion in 1S49 it was 
leased by the New York and New Haven R. R. for 20 years, and on the expiration 
of that time it reverted to the original proprietors. 

The line passes West Rock soon after leaving New Haven, and enters 
the valley of Mill River, which it follows for nearly 20 M. The town of 
Hamden, which is soon entered, is in a valley between the W. Rock Mts. 
and the E. Rock Mts., two ranges which run N. nearly jDarallel until they 
iinite in Southington, and then advance into Massachusetts. Mt. Carmcl 
(near the station of the same name) is a lofty spur from the E. Rock 



NEW HAVEN TO NORTHAMPTON. Route 15. 109 

Range, and is composed of gi"eenstone, Hcamden is a quiet country town, 
on fertile lands. The stations, Cheshire and Hitchcock's, are in the town 
of Cheshire, a picturesque farming district, in one of whose villages is 
situated the Episcopal Academy of Conn, (military), which dates from 
1801. Plantsville and Southington are in a town by the latter name, 
formerly noted for extensive tin-ware manufactories, but now depending 
on iron-works. Station, Plainville, with the Farmington Canal on the 
r. and the Blue Hills on the 1. At this point the New York and New 
England Eailroad crosses the present route. Station, Farmington. 
The village is seen about \ M. aAvay in a beautiful situation near the 
broad, rich meadows of the Farmington River. A broad and shaded 
street 2 M. long composes the village. This fair and fertile valley was 
the Tunxis of the Indians, who dwelt here in great numbers. Many of 
their cemeteries and fishing-places have been found. Tlie land was 
bought from them by immigrants from Boston and Roxbury, who settled 
here in 1640. It was the pastor of this village who preached to tlie troops 
marching to Boston in 1775, from the text, "Play the man for your 
country, and for the cities of your God ; and the Lord do that which 
seemeth him good." 

From Farmington a branch track runs to New Hartford (14 M.), by tlie stations 
Unionville, Biu-liny-ton, CoUinsville, and Pine Meadow. At CoUinsville (l^alley 
House, good) tlie Farmington River is dammed, and affords a gi'eat power which 
is used by extensive works for the manufacture of axes and edged tools. The 
business was founded by Mr. Collins, and now employs 6 - 700 men, who, with 
their families, make up a populous village. 15,000 steel ploughs are sent out 
yearly to all parts of the world, and 200, r»00 Brazilian hoes have been made here 
in OFiC year. Vast numbers of ^Mexican machetes are turned out, and more axes 
than at any other factory in America. Here, also, were made the pikes for John 
Brown's raid on Virginia. 

At CoUinsville the Conn. Western R. R. forms a junction with the branch. 

Beyond Farmington is Avon, a pretty village, where Silliman found 
" remnants of primeval New England customs." On the E., Talcott Mt. 
is plainly seen, with a lofty tower on its top. (See Environs of Hartford. ) 

Stations, Weatogue and Simsbury, in the town of Simsbury, which was 
settled in 1670 on the Indian lands of Massacoe. During King Philip's 
War the colonists buried their goods and fled, but the town was destroyed 
by tlie Indians and left so long neglected that the wilderness reclaimed it, 
and the returning settlers never found their buried treasures. On a hill 
W. of tlie track is the principal village, ambushed in trees. Just before 
reaching Granby, the next station, the Farmington River, which has 
followed the track for 15 M., turns sharply to the S. E. through a pass 
in the mountain, and flows down into the Connecticut. Station, Granby 
(three small hotels in the town), in a rugged farming town. Here was 
located Newgate Prison (State of Conn. ), — a grim pile on the top of Copper 
Hill, where the prisoners were confined in the cavernous shafts and pas- 
sages of a copper-mine, — abandoned in 17G0. Some of the convicts lived 



110 Route 15. NEW HAVEN TO NORTHAMPTON. 

60 ft below the earth's surface, amid unceasing darkness. Tlie nioutli cf 
the main shaft was covered by a massive stone building, and the prisoners 
were-uardedby20 soldiers. This subterranean labyrinth served for a 
State Prison from 1775 to 1827. The State says that the average mor- 
tality durin- that period was less than that in the other American prisons, 
but harsh stories went abroad about the gloomy caverns of Newgate. 

Soon after leaving Granby the line enters Massachusetts, and runs along 
Con-amuck Pond to Soutlmick (Union Hotel), an elevated farnung vil- 
la£re° On the W is the picturesque mountain-town of Granville (Gran- 
ville House), devoted to farming and dairies (stages from Wes^hel.l, 
9 M ) The line now descends to the lowlands, passes through West- 
field village, and crosses the Albany R. R. (Route 25) and the Westlicld 
River. A branch line runs thence 10 M. N. E. to Holyoke. 
Southampton is under the shadow of high hills. After leaving the latter 
Tdace thelono- ri(ke of Mt. Tom looms upon the r., while Pomeroy s 
Mt. is farther^wa; on tlie 1. Easthampton is now reach-.l ( J/a,m.m 
jj^^^s ) This is tjie seat of Williston Senunary, which 

has been endowed with .$250,000 by Hon. Samuel Williston, who has also 
eiven .^125,000 to Amherst College, large sums to Mt. Holyoke Seminary, 
and has 3 times rebuilt the Payson Church in Easthampton. He began 
business by making buttons at home with his wife's aid, after which he 
perfected machinery, and erected a factory. 

The trains runs N. by the great bend of the Connecticut, with Mt. Hol- 
yoke visible on the r., and passes through Northampton and Florence 
isee page 159). It then goes N. W. by Leeds (sewing-silk factories) and 
naydenviUe (brass-works), to Williamsburg {Hampshire House). 

n d ''O M to Hiu^dnle on t-'C Albany K. R. Daily stages also / M. ^^. to Lne^- 
?.5; fcbm'^Tav^ nmuntain-town, famous for its rare nnnerals : 

S M ti. irS^Soi! i grazing town ; 20 M. to Ferrt, a decadent and highly p.c- 
turesouo mountain-town, 4 M. from Hinsdale. _ <•+, ^i,,,i 

w iiUm ruUen Bryant, born at Cummington ui 1794, is one of the lead- 

ILitfiild, Whatcly, S, Dferfi.Ul. ni.a Couwa, Junction, where it connects »itl. the 
iloosac-Tiluaul route (jw^e 17S <(). 



BRIDGEPORT TO WJNSTED. Route 16. l\\ 



16. Bridgeport to Winsted. 

Via Naugatuck R. R. in 62 M. Fare, $1.85. 

4 M. from Bridgeport the train crosses the broad Honsatonic River. 
At Naugatuck Junction tlie rails of the Shore Line Raih-oad are left, and 
the line turns to the N. E. and follows the Honsatonic as far as Derby. 
The village of Birmingham (Basset House) is picturesquely located on a 
high headland at the junction of the Honsatonic and Naugatuck Rivers. 
Commerce was formerly carried on on a large scale from this point, its 
vessels running to the West Indies, but manufactures have now taken 
possession of Derby. Great numbers of pins, tacks, brads, corsets, crin- 
ohne, stockings, and melodeons (Sterling's) are made here. The great 
Honsatonic Dam is about f M. from the village and aflFonls an immense 
water-power. It cost §500,000, and was three years in building, being 
constructed of solid masonry in tlie form of an arch, with the convex sur- 
face turned toward the pressure of the stream. The dam is 600 ft. long, 
and has 23 ft. fall, and the heavy roaring of the plunging waters can be 
heard miles away at night. 

Gen. David Humphreys was born at Derby in 1752. He was Washincrton's aide 
and long resided at Mount Vernon, after which he was minister to iw4l and 
Spam, and connnander of the Conn, militia uiiu-,di ana 

PortThttf iTH^'^? ^%l 'r\"-''- -^^ ^entered the na^T, and m 1800 captured 
fo/o ' • *??^-..-^^ distinguished liunself in the Tripolitan War ami in 

1812, comraamhng the "Constitution," he escaped from aBrit sh squadron nmt 

w, ^ w ^, °f ^ Guernere." and caj^tured lier after a short, .sharp action Gen 
Wm. Hull born here, 175:J, was condemne<l to d.'atli in 1812 for s irrenderin-tl^e 
Army of tlie Northwest, at Detroit, but President Madison pardoned l^hn° 

An omnibus runs Irom Hirmlngliara to its sister-village of Ansonia passin- 
along breezy lie.ghs which afford fine views of the Naifgatuck Vallev am the 
riiral homes of Derby scattered on tlie Trans-Nangatuck hills. In the Ned of 
B.nmngham a small Green is ,iassed, with a Saxon-towered Epise pal Chureh 

A r" iln T '^V^'^ f *'^'^. ^^^^thodists, Congregationalists, and ci holes ' 

A Railroad rims from Ansouia to New Haven direct. 

Ansonia (Ansonia House), the next station beyond Derby, is a thrivin^r 
borough near the falls in the Naugatuck. It was founded in 1838, and 
has become the seat of numerous rolling-mills and foundries, a large 
hoop-skirt factory, and manufactories of clocks, lightning-rods, and brass 
wares. Some fine mansions are built on the heights over the river, and 
from near the tall stone clmrch is gained a neat valley-view, embracing a 
great part of the old Indian domain of Paugussett. 

At Seymour, the next station, is a small villa^re founded by Gen 
Humphrey in 1810, for the manufacture of cotton,^ paper, and woollen 
goods. For the latter purpose he had imported large flocks of Spanish 
merino sheep. 

Beacon Falls has a water-power which is used by factories making a 
great number of woollen shawls. Station, Naugatuck, which is the 



112 Route 16. BRIDGEPOET TO WIHSTED. 

.eato».eGo„a,e.G,o.^.a— )Co^^a^^^^^ 

Works, which tuni out 400,000 ^^^^^^l .' u ^ne large tree," 

stations, W.<er.me, ^'f'""'^^^^^:^::Z^nZ, on W, 
UtcVM, 4 M. by stage ™'^^^»*'^^'*„^,,, «,„,,,,, „ lovely s.„nn,ev- 

"" ;.° wL ri of n ra 'vis, and'sOO snmnter visitors annually 
resort, with scores I,,wley,ine (32 M ) and Betl.e , .-on- 

J,'!'/,?,KLfil£s™TVru4|t.rcJ-.,/seato^ 

«'^rfefSerrc=t|s?;3.^ 

of His Majesty's donmnons m ^e^v En|,la^^^^^^ Massachusetts Plantation, 

NarragansettBay . • o^.^f in^SSude from said Narragansett Bay on 

and on the S. by the sea ^ikI m loni^it ule . ^^^^^^^,,to belonging." bub- 

E. to the South Sea on the W- part w th the isian ^^ ^^^^ York and 

fequently royal grants ^^^^^ached fiom tl_as^v^^^^^^^ 

Pennsylvania, although much o^^^^/^'Yt the close of the Revolution the State 
of Wyoming), Avas settled from Conn At the Ji ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ g f L-Uce 

ceded this, her western domam to the Ui^yi; e^c v =, ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ 

Erie as wide as Conn, and 120 ^ l«"g-J?^;^3 f ^t^^^ towns which had been 
land 500,000 acres (the "Fire Lands were^ranx ^^^^ remainder of the 

rs^rrrrs::i;-°ii^^^^^^^^^^ 

near the intersection of these avenues, --^ ft™* » a p y _ ^_^ , ^^_.^ „ 
isaaornodl>yasoldie,V monument ^e^-ath the ^^ ^^^^ 

is a list of nearly 60 n,e„ "f. LttchfieU, ^ ho ^'^^^^^^^ i,ake, con- 
Union. 2-3 M. from the ""»8«'.°'\ f'%f .r^'',' h,„„t of many lish, 
taining 900 .acres, the largest ake m the State, teh-^ >,^^^_.„ 

and scarcely yet invaded i,y the <_»<=*»"-. "l'^' ^'^^^'gt. ^^, th„l.) is 
of so many of the ^e- ^"f-d la cs^ I^- N^h S ^(^^^^^.^^ ^^^^ 

Prospect Hill, from which a fascmating "«* ■' o,,cl stretch a^vay in 
wild!mess of high hills which -^^^ "l^'^^: J 1 1 nous shores, 
the W. Bant.am Lake is seen, ^''ff """«„?. ''",i„„s of Litchfield 
ahont a mile distant, and the gre.a elms a"'^;'^ — ";°,, ^e road 

nthe^ainahove^. trBeeirm^il'^hicrh.as heen moved 

t^'S:X h"; 0- the end of N. «'• ^'^^ ^'gf y^ : J V^ . 
L.BneVs (private, as>.nm for tlieius-ane On f «t ';t.s''or), and 
cott Mansion, built about 1/00, by uov. v 



BPJDGEPOET TO WINSTED. Route IG. 113 

where was bom Oliver Wolcott, an officer of the Continental Army, Secre- 
tary of the U S. Treasury (1795-1800), Gov. of Conn. (1818-27). His 
grand-neice, Miss Alice Wolcott, now dwells there. The leaden statue of 
George III., which stood on the Bowling Green in New York City, was 
brought to this house, and melted into bullets by the Governor's daughters. 
Many other solemn old colonial mansions are along the roads, and French 
roofs have not yet invaded this dignified seclusion. This air of antiquity, 
together with the balmy, cool, and salubrious breezes which dwell among 
these hills, have given Litchfield a ]iigh place among tlie restful and un"^ 
fashionable of the summer-resorts. 

Lake Warramaugr, near New Preston, is reached by semi-daily stages ^4-"^ 
\.lo. i P ^'^ 'V. '"T'''^^ ^""^ '"'"^'^ ''"^^"S green wooded hills, " a modifiedkimi of 

Aiuoiig tlie pleasant drives in the vicinity is that to Bantam Lake with its 
nnibrageous gruves(2-3 M.) ; to Mount Tom, and to the village of Morris with 
a quamt old country inn, unchanged since the colonial days (5-G M ) Smi Alt 
Sie Com' Rf^'r ^' "^' """^^^ ^'''- "^^^ ""' «^«"> ^^'^^ °''the E. the^hills heboid 

" seft'ed'hf Ir^f ^%f'^ ''S"'' "•'^''"y °^ ^«""- i^ I'lS' for about £300, and was 
sh uWreurnhi Jp+r '^^ '^''' surrounded by a palisade, lest the Indians 
sm ukl retu u 111 foice to their ancient and favorite hunting-grounds of Bantam 
T «w ^^hnnl f ^^l'I""p I^^eve (who married Aaron Burr's sister) establisl ed a 
toiled Mm nnTi 'rif "' ^^f ' J«™^« ««^^1''. ^^'^Se of tlie Supreme Court of C.i n! 
ibnolin 4,' remained 40 years. This was then the most renowned law 

Semh a V b thp'Tt;'''^ ''^ lawyers were educated here. The llrst Young SS 
man " ,1 ,pn Ph f '' '''''' established at Litchfield. The to^m has produced 
D D " ' the f ther of T!^! ^^'I^om are Beecher and Bushnell. Lyman Beecher. 
ht^reisio 28 ofhf.l ^-u'"! ■^^^'^ any other man in America," was pastor 

IR j«vlr w { ^ "'"l^' ''^"strious children, the most famous is 
af T.fn 7 Ward Beecher, born at Litchfield in 1S13. He was educated 
?Lf l^^v?sTe?t?ecftn^T'"r'"^' ^^ Y^i'^h hi^father was president Som S to 
Ph^iouti Chn S T^ Tf ' '""'"l/" "'"^ ^'''"^^' y^^^^ ^'"^ became pastor of the 
dur Krwh;; w>^''/",^'"°''^y"- This position he has held ever since 
dmuig wh ch time he has won a world-wide fame for his oratorical nowers be- 
sides building up a powerful church with active auxil arv Sanehes H^-r;H^n 

The Peari of Orr's Island," and many ^.harming stories of N^w EnglaiKl life ' 
Aft^er leaving Litchfield the train stops at Wolcottville (founded by 
Gov. Wolcott m 1802), the seat of large woollen-mills, brass-works and 
manufac ones of plated goods. In this town, John Brown, of Ossawa- 
toinie, tlie invader of Virginia, was born in 1800. Station, Burrville, 
after which the train reaches 

Winsted (Clarke House, $2; Beardsley House), a long, narrow vil- 
lage between steep hills on tlie line of Mad River. Iron and steel works 
abound here; pins, scythes, hoes, clocks, and other articles are also 
made. Long Lake, 3^ M. long, and Littk Fond, he high on the plateau- 



H 



114 Roidel7. KENT. 



and Mad River falls 2U0 ft. in 2 M. Winsted has 3 banks, 3 Bewsparors, 
and 5 churches. It is the home of Rose Terry Cooke,>vho (article My town, 
in "Harper s Magazine," Vol. 55) highly praises its landscape beauty. 

At Winsted the Nau.atnck R. R. forms a Junction with the Conn. Western R. R. 
running from Hartford to MiUerton ou the Harlem R. R. (Routt /U). 

17. Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills. 

Via the Housatonic R R. in 110 M. (to Pittsfield). Fare, $3.30. 
Shortlv after leaving Bridgeport (on Route 8) the line enters the ^'alley 
of the Pequanock, which it follows for 15 M. through a tluuly settled 
c Jntrv abounding in low hills. Stations, Stepney, Botsford, and 

Newt wn, ^Dl^s Hoi.l; GranJ-Cenfral HoUl)^ situated on a high 
hill il the midst of Newtown, the Patatuck of the abor.gnics. It 
?s h^; according to Beecher, that "the hills first begm ^o ^how xn.m^ 
tainous symptoms." At Hawleymlle the Shepaug R- R- con es m 

frl Litclild (see Route 16), and at i^rooAy.^.W /..^^^o. a short ra.^ 
road runs S. W. to Danbury (see Route 18). Station, Brookheld, beyond 
which the track approaches and crosses the Housatonic River, and stops 
at Ne.o Milford (New Milford House). This is a fine village near the 
Tnnction of the Housatonic and Aspetuck Rivers, with a Made verdant 
iommon, and well-shaded streets. A silver-mine was worked here m 
1790, and much marble and slate has been quarried m the hills. At pies- 
ent, factories for making buttons, boots, hats and 1.vme «- -in the 
place which is furthermore one of the centres of the tobacco rade in the 
valley Stations, Merwinsville, and Kent (restaurant m the s ation ; 
Elmore House). This sweet valley was the home of the Scaghticoke 

Man' and here the Moravians founded a mission. The cause winch 
more han any other forced the Christian tribes of New England t. lose 
The" identity'by miscegenation operated in ^^^^^^^^^f^^^^ 
of this tribe joined the Continental Army, and but few of them ev.r le 
Lned. So several negroes and a few poor whites joined the con-uin^e' 
and from the combination arose the present representatives of the tnbe, 
who pough and plant, wear trousers, go to church, and otherwise are 
r^^h Lulns as Massasoit never dreamed of. /-^^^^ V^TlT^h 
Yale College, has spent much time with this fragment of the Scaghti- 
lots 0:L lofty 'plain near Kent (ascended by ^ ^^^^^^^ 
road) are the Spectacle Ponds, -Uvo 1^^- ^.^^^^^^^.^^^^^^^^ ^^^ 
connected by a short strait. From the round hill above the N. Pond the 
fittingness of the name is clear. 



S. NOEWALK TO DANBURY. Route 18. 115 

• iToo ^ ^ ^^^ "''''^ ^'''^ stations are in Cornwall, which toivn was sold 
m 1738 for $ 1,500 (46 square M. ), and settled in the same year. It is in 
a double sense the roughest township in the county. S. Cornwall is sit- 
uated m a deep valley, and here a Foreign Mission School was founded in 
1«10. In 1820 there were 19 Indians and 6 Paeinc-Islanders studyin- at 
the school, and here, in 1818, died Obookiah, the gifted Hawaiian. ° 

Co™if*;'!f r-/r f™"\Connvall Bridge to Litchfield and Sharon, and from W 
Loiuwall to Goslien and tlie villages of Cornwall 
Groshen IS a lofty town, in whiL^h are 5 ponds, and Ivv Mt rthe hi-hpof hi +ii« 

_ The train now runs along the narrow valley of the Housatonic with the 
ridg^e of Sharon on the W. Just beyond that ridge, .tnd extending thence 
to the N. Y. hne, is a rich and fertile valley. 

Station, Falls VUlage (Dudley House ; and a snug country inn in the 
glen over the river). The Great Falls of the Housatonic are near the 
v-illage and form a fine sight, the river plunging over rocky ledges for 60 
It., with a tremendous roaring. A near scrutiny of the Falls is unad- 
visable, as its vicinity is crowded with squalid Irish shanties, while tlie 
K X. repair-shops are situated above them on the site of the Ames 
foundries which produced some of the heaviest iron fortress-cannon dui- 

caHv ^f Tr ^' i' ".'f • ^^''' ^^"^^^"^^ ^^^^^^ --^^ - -thusiast - 
cally of these Falls (about 1800) they were surrounded by the fitting 

adjuncts of a great primeval forest. 2-3 M. N. VV. of the village is 

afforfr'" ' t^r t""' '™""'' '^ ^^^"^^ ^^^ ^ '^^' wood-road, and 
affords a view of the broad valley of the Housatonic. At the foot of 

Prospect IS a remarkable group of rocks, the darkest, deepest nook of 

wh ch IS called the Wolfs Den. W. of the village L the far-viewinl 

Gallo^vs 111, where, according to the tradition, the corpse of a negro ^Z 

Daily stages to Salisbury and Lime Rock. Station, Canaan (two 
theS. ''^''^^^"'^^^^^^' ^it^^ «- great, ridgy mass of Canaan Mt. on 

(Ashley FaUs), the liife enters the C,^^^^^^^^ '^^- /* "^<^ "^xt station 

setts. For the rema nin" -. M nf t ^ ^ / Berkslure and State of Massa-hu- 
(Route 23). remaining oo M. ot tuis railroad hue see the "Berkshire Hills" 

18. S. Horwalk to Danbury. 

. Jl' mf"'"^ "f '';""''' ""■ ''• '^ '' ^- ^^"'^^ ^Oc. stations, A^or- 
^oall, innnej^cuk, Kent, Wilton, Canno^.s, Georgetown, Ri^efield. 



lU R^UIS. S. NORWALK TO DANBURY. 

•„ i- 1 M from tlie station, on a brancli track, and is 
The latter vdla e - 3 ^ j™m t ^^^ ^_^^^.^_^^ ^^^^^^^^^ 

LT("DiS'S^'),'^;ave "al^von ta,ne as authors. 
Station .-.^wh^eP^^^^^^^^ 

In 1783 - 86, he was one of the author ot ^ ^^^.^^^^^ 

" David and Jonathan. Joel and Timothy,^ 
Over the ocean set up the hynm ot the 

crossing Bet,, (innetion o, the Si.epang R- «■), tUe train en- 

- Ban.W <Wooster Honse, ^^^^^ _ ^^.„,„ 

Danburvwas "ankle-deep m P^^^J^* .V^i^^'^^It is said that, as the ran ers 
haSSSyed the arj^ ^S?^ ^S^s'S^er V<le to its crest ajd s^.o^d. 

divided into 2 sects. -1700 when Zadoc 

.A • o^ T^at factory wa? started here m 1780, when z.a lou 

The first American h'^t-factory ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^ companies 

Benedict, with 3 --' ^^^^^^^ ^' of which make 216,000 hats a 

in the business, with $ 500,000 capiiai, 

year. The borough 

has a.out 12,000 inhaHtants, 9 ^^^:^^t:Jj:^'i^^^- 
county buildings, and a grea -1>»° ' j' ^^ ^^^^t .ii of the town is 
Main St. is li M. long, and fro,n Deer H a ^^ ^^^ .^ ^ ^^.^^^^ 

gained. I^^'f K»o^'^?<"fii,. Powerful water-works supply the 
with good boating and nsnni„. 

borough. . „„,»ter\' of 100 acres, containing a monu- 

^^Ho^s -- riS - ^^;:^,>:r ::; sS: 

r:S«eS «|: --Air ir X, . . soldiers .n the Be- 
at the -tua^ ^f ry,^,l,urv who are buried elsewhere, 
cession War) of Dan bury, wnu 

, , , „„ No sound shall awake them 

" ?S^e^ K fougM tJ^eir last battle. To glory again.' 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 19. 117 



19. Boston to Uew York. Norwich Line. 

By the New York ami New Eugland R R. (from foot of Summer St.) to Norwich 
and New London, and thence b}' steamboat. 

After crossing the S. Boston flats the line runs through populous Dor- 
cliester, Hyde Park, and Dedham (page 62), with fine views of the Blue 
Hills. It then crosses bright Norwood, the busy town of Walpole (in- 
tersecting the Old Colony R. R., N. Div), and rural Norfolk. 

Franklin {Central Iloust) is a pretty village with a pa{)er, 5 churches, 
a bank, high-school, and public library. It is the seat of the new and 
richly endov^^ed Dean Academy, whose building cost S 150,000. This town 
contains over 200 farms, and manufactures of straw hats, boots, <S:c. 

A battle with the Indians took place here in 1676; and in 177S the town was 
named in honor of Benj;imin Franklin, to whom (then in Paris)aliint was conveyeil 
that a good church-bell would be acceptable in return for this honor. He sent 500 
books (still preserved), observii!;i; that the people were probably " more fond of 
sense than sound." Nathaniel Emmons, D.D., one of the leaders of the Ilopkiu- 
siaii school of theology, was pastor here for 54 years (1773 - 1827). Horace Mann, 
the educationist, A. D. Richardson, the journalist, and Theron Metcalf, the jurist, 
were born at Franklin. A railroad runs S. fi'om Franklin to W. Wrentham, Cum- 
berland, and Providence. Another line runs W. to Milfortl (Milford Hotel), a 
prosperous and attractive manufacturing place. 

Stations, IVndsworth, near S. Franklin; WoonsocJcet Junction, where 
the Woonsocket Division is intersected; Blaclcstone, where the Prov. & 
Wor. R. R. is crossed, and whence daily stages run to Slatersville; MilU 
'iille, and Ironstone, in the picturesque Blackstone valley; E. Douglas 
(axc-factory), and Douglas (Dudley's Hotel, over a century old), a land 
of lakes and highlands, with 5 churches, a paper, library, and high-school. 

From E. Thompson station the Webster & Southbridge Branch diverges 
to the N. W. ; runs near the picturesque Lake Chabonakongkonion ; 
crosses the Norwich & Worcester R. R. at Webster ; returns S. W, into 
Connecticut to Quinnebaug and New Boston ; passes W. Dudley, 2\ M. 
W. of the lofty hamlet of Dudley, the seat of the Nichols Academy, in 
a ricli farming town ; and terminates at Southbridge, a busy manufactur- 
ing village on the Quinnebaug River, with a bank, paper, library, high- 
school, 7 churches, a large French population, and manufactories of cot- 
tons, woollens, worsted, muslins, spectacles, shoes, and cutlery. The 
town has 5,740 inhabitants, and its surface is highly diversified. 

Daily stages run to Sturbridge {Central Hotel), Z\ M. N. "W., and Fisk- 
dale (Fiskdale House), 2 M. beyond. This town contains 2,200 inhabitants, 3 
churches, a library, a soldiers' nionument (:'or 27 dead), and manufactories of cot- 
ton and woollen goods and augers. Brimjiekl (page 130) is 5 M. W. 

After crossing diagonally the large town of Thompson (much visited in 
summer), the train passes on the rails of the Norwich & Worcester Divis- 
ion, at Putnam (a village containing several cotton and woollen factories.) 

A daily stage runs from Putnam to TVoodstoclc, starting generally late in 
the afternoon. Elniwood Hall, at Woodstock, is a line summer hotel (opening 
June 15), surrounded by pleasant lawns. From this mountain village are obtained 
noble views. " It is a miniature Mount Holyoke ; and its prospect, the Counec- 



118 Route 19. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

ticnt Valley in miniature." Woodstock Lake is a beautiful sheet of water. Near 
by is Henry C. Bowen's famous estate of Roselaiifl Park; and many pretty sum- 
mer villas kre in this region. The local polo club has a high renown ^,... 
S AV of Woodstock (passing Crystal Lake on the way) is Ashf ord, a secluded 
rural own Hefe was born fhonias Knowlton, who fought m the six campaigns 
Sig in the conquest of Canada, and then in the Havana expedition. He led 
the Ashford minute-men to the lines at Cambndge and fought with theni at 
Bunkei Hill While commanding a light infantry reg. he was kiUed at its head ui 

^^"i^lSew SllljS^ly Lyon. Nathaniel Lyon w.s born at Ash- 
ford in ^9. He was engaged in the Florida War the ^f^;:^';''!^:^'^^ 
the Belen Gate of Mexico City), and the Kansas tree-btate A\ai. Hi M.cj, 1851, 
^vhilf coninianding at St. Louis Ai'senal, with a handlul of Regulars and several 
re" mentiof loyal Missourians, he captured a large rebel camp and army near the 
Stv By rapid movements and hard blows, he saved Missouri to the Union, but 
was at last confronted at Wilson's Creek by a force 4 times as large as his owti. 
roniTTosed of disloyal Missourians, Arkausians, and Texans. Disdaining to flee 
he iff Ms little army again and again to the attack, unti he was shot ^ead win e 
heading the foremost files of a charging regiment. He elt his ortune (* 30 oo) 
to te government, to aid in putting down the rebelbon a'"^ /»fterf solemn 
triumphal transit across the country his body was laid to rest in the village 

"''iTe'SSl^fe'rfSshfordwere ultra-orthodox in the old days. One day while 
they were Shipping a nonchurch-goer on the public^ Green, a stranger rode ii 
and cried, "Min of Ashford, you serve God as if the Devil was m you. Do ou 
think you can whip the grace of God into a man? Christ will have none but 
volunteeis." Then lie spurred away, leaving the little Inquisition of Ashtord 
astounded, confused, and ashamed. . -u , i 4- „-„ri P^o^iM^nt nf 

In 1773 Eliphalet Nott, D. D., the distinguished educator, and President of 
Union College (ISOl: -6(3) for 02 years, was born at Ashford. Galusha A. Giow 
was born at Ashford in 1823. 

Stations, Daysville and Danielsonville, lousy villages engaged largely in 
the cotton raamifacture (the fomier turning out 240 miles of fancy cassi- 
meres and 540,000 yards of cotton cloth yearly). These stations are in 
the large town of Killingly, which occupies part of the Indian districts of 
Attawangan and Minnetixit. 

This region is rich in Indian traditions, the most curious of which is attached 
to Mashapaug Lake, ^ M. N. of Daysville. Far back m the ante-colonial daj s, the 
IndSn wL^accustonled to hold revels on a lull on the site of this hike but 
ince, after a merry-making four days long tlie Great ^.P^"^ b^,?,^. ^^fl^J^^ J^ 
their riotous orgies, and, as he struck out the foundations of the h.l it saiik in 
deep waters, carrying down all the assemblage of the fea^teis. . ^f all tie tribe 
one woman alone was saved on an island which still stands in the lal^e J3ii 
sSll clear days a great submerged forest may be seen under the deepest Avaters. 
Avillagfof tieN.^^^^^^^^^ gave the Nipmucks (who inhabited this d.s- 

frili) airand sea-shore feast of clanfs and fish. The next year they were invi ed 
into thfs hiU-countrv to eat venison in the wigwams of the ^lpmucks. But a 
qliarrel arose during the feast, and the guests from the «f'>-«^^«»:^J7 "i^^^f J^J,^^ 
The Narragansett tribe took action on the matter, '-^1^^'"^ 'ofif/fnr.^ri the 
into the Nipniuck country, only to receive a severe defeat at the foids ot the 

^f\t''\\^"of Daysville is Pomfret, which was settled by R«^l^"^y /Mass > 

people on the rich lands of Mashamoquet, in the year 16b7. In Pomtiet is tbe 
Wolf Den, where the intrepid Putnam descended hi the darlmess, alone, and killed 
a great wolf which had been the terror of the town -R^^^t 

S of Pomfret and 4. M. W. of Danielsonville is the pretty village of Brook- 
lyn (Putnam House). This is the county-seat of A\ mdham Co and has a re- 
fined and cultivated society, while its broad streets are I'V^xl ^'"i st |« > ^^J 
and fine mansions. The Unitarian Church, on the Green, is the oil> chnich ot 
that sect in the State, and the building is more than a century old. 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 19. 119 

^f^^'i-n'^^n ''*""'"?^.?f™t?* ^'^''^'™' ^^^'^- '^ 1^18' '^f'ttled within the present limits 
of Brooklyn in 1739. From 1755 to 17G2, he fought in tlie French wars a,, TJ.q 
at the capture of Crown Point, Montreal, and IlavanL He thL ret""^^^/ 
Brooklyn and remained there until one day, when ],e was pIoiudiim"on irfarm 
l^t^in't'l^f"' "'" battle of Lexington came down the coun?"v '^^.e pi Zw^^^ 
Si scene of IS ^\f\'l^^^'^'^ «l-f^»S on .his fleetest horse and rode towa?d 
r^t\ scene ot battle. He raised a regiment in Windham County was made a 
maj.-geii. in the Continental Army ; and was one of the lpidpr/«t +i-,l f i f 
Breed's Hill. He commanded at New Ymk, at grinceton and \n the Hudson 
Highlands, until he was forced to retire from active service on acemnt of his a^e 
t^iy f o/wie'-iihay''" ''"^'^' ^"'^ '^^ ^"'^"""^^ ^'^ obscured^ bS iJ. a ceS 

Danielsonville is the seat of extensive factories on the water-power 
' furnished by the Quinehaug River. Cotton cloth and shoe-making are 
the prmcipal industries. 

KilSv Ti ?"^-^i '^'"^..^^ BrookljTi, and other lines run to Willimantie S 
KilLngly, and Providence (the latter route crosses the State of R. j ^''^^^^^C' ^• 

Stations, Wauregau (village W. of the station). Quinebaug Pond (3 M 
long) IS a pretty lake, where the '' Narragansetts' fishing-ljcdit " rises in 
the form of a pillar of fire, at midnight, once in every seven years Such 
IS the old legen.l, and dwellers in the country-side claim to have seen this 
fiery colunni blazing over the centre of the pond. The large Wauregan 
Mills (cotton sheetings) are situated in this village 

Stations, Central Village (with several factories), Plainfield Junction 
(where the hue crosses the Providence Division, N. Y. & N E R R ^ 

'^^ OuSi' ^"^l^^^^-^-^"^- ^^ ^h^ two latter places are large ^L 
The Qiunebaug River is crossed at Jewett City, and soon after the train 
passes through a rock-tunnel 300 ft. long. At Norwich the cars run on 
he New London Northern Line, and reach the steamboat wharf at New 
London late m the evening. 

After going on board tl,°e .steamboat, passenger., „.,nally retire, and sleep 
wbjle she moves through the quiet waters of Long Island Sound! Ari.,in^ 

tbi .i, f T"""!' "/"' ""* " "'"•■'"'«' °f "■■« <='«^t<=™ <""■!■■<«»= ani 

om ,f r- *■ ^"^ '""'"' '""" "** P'- ^' North River, and 

fom the next p.er runs the ferry to Jersey City, which enters here 

theSoXndtr °"'^ """■""■^ '" """^^'■^'^'^ and Washington, 



120 Routed. HAKTFOED TO SALISBUEY. 

Boston to WoonsocUt. 
J *n o^TT «+ntir.Ti Distance to Woonsocket, 37^- M. 
Trains leave the Boston and Albany Station, l^istanc 

Fare, $1.10. ^ , , „ ii>,miv track and l-asses the stations BrooU- 

ll'elinesoondivergesfromtheAlbanytrack am 1 entered a 

1iv,V Reservoir and Chestnut Hdl (see Route 2) ^ewion ^^^^ .^^^^ 

lameSpicturesque town, abounding "J ^j^ ' "^^^ ^is feSity and after a formal 
S cSme to the Indian village ^;f N^'^^™^^^^^^^^^^^ them the tenets 

deception by the aged chief f ^J,*,^,%^fSe accei ' his teachings, formed a diurch 
of Christianity. A large part of te tube ace en^_ ^^^^ Newton Centre, on 

and adopted the laws and eu^to s 2,iif,ino- to a Theological Institution of the 
a far-viewing hiU, are tl^e ;uddmg^^^ deputation, ^and has grown rapidly 

Baptist denomination. This ^t ho<^ « m ^ ^« i .^^.^ ^^,i.ee years. ^ ., . ^ 
since its foundation m 18-25. The course oistu ^ Falls is a 

sitions, Newton Highlands, Upper F^^ ;, HUdana ^^^^^ ^.^i^v ^h^^rles 

manufacturing village where the track "^,«f ^^^J J^w passes through the towns 
River Station the river is again 7^|^*^,V,K^ham twice crossing the sinuous valley 
of Dover, Medtield. Midway and Bellmgu^i"^ Jj"^^ "fierce attack by a Bwarin of 
of the Charles. Medheld retains the "^e™"'f \\ , „ .. 50 houses were burnt, 
?uSansed by King Philip, who '7«f^,f;S;Vbu? finally the people got an 
20 of the villagers killed and many "i^'^-^ rV^*:'"J^^^ "" John Wilson, Jr., a graduate 
ohl cannon into positi^on ^^^^^£^A schoolmaster of the ^^ lage 
nfthe first Ilarvard class, was pastoi, pnjsRu, Dover. Medheld, K 

?rou lS.'l to 1691. Ji- ^t-^!«"^!»5rN E i^^ghlm, Bellinghain, E. Blavkstone 
SSJ^iSt^sS-lSuS' Al^S^iock^a connection is made with the 
Providence and Worcester Railroad. 

20 Hartford to Salisbury and MiUerton. 

Vi. the Connecticut Western R. K Distance, 6. M. to Salisbury ; GO M. to 

t,ehigMnnswlnciy.ouM..^^^^^^ and Sin..ury 

Bloonifield, Scotland, TanttMlle ^^^^^=« J .^^^ ^^^^ New Haven 

(,.e Bout. 15, At tUs po.n^ . -"t ^s sLton Bvoo., an. New 
and Nortliampton E. «■ (l'""'"^,"'^,,^, .,,,,,,;,, importance, tei.igahalt- 
Harttovd. Thelattertown^vastonnerb nnua V ^ ^ ^^^ 

■^^,■V^^^^''-f^^^^^^'l^f"Z'Z^L":^ii i^ engaged in the 
England to Albany and W. New York, iv i ^^^^ 

n Jmfactnre of eotton and steel i-'>^\^l'^^^[^2\^i Honse, $ 10 - 12 

W. Winsted, Norfolk. Tins .s a Pf* yj^^f^^<X„,, ^ , Gveen, with 

a week) with monntains on -«'■=' ^^.J^fJ^fJ™ ,vho died fov their 

a monnment " to the memory » .^»Jt"'l *J^„ Norfolk is cold, rugged, 
country in the War of the Eebelon. ^he^sod oi ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ 

and stony, and it is wntten tha "' *'>« ^" PJ 49 t„,f,ited their 

1719 after inspection ot the tracL, *j7 ± 
the iovm m 1/42, alter msp aairy Inisiness at one time 

claims and the moneys paid on them. ^ ^^ f 3 .^^ ^^^^ 



SALISBURY. Route m. 121 

most prominent elevation in the vicinity is tlie massive Haystack ML 
(footpath to the summit), fi-om which a very extensive prospect is enjoyed, 
stretcliing from Mt. Everett in Mass. to the Mts. of New York. About 
5 M, from the village are Camel's Falls, which are attractive after heavy 
rains. The line now follows the valley of the Blackberry River to its 
junction with the Housatouic, crossing at Canaan Station the Housatonic 
Railroad (Route 17) and River. After passing the stations, Twin Lakes, 
Chapinville, Salisbury, Lakeville, Ore Hill, and State Line, all in the io\m 
of Salisbury, the line enters the State of New York, and at Millerton 
connects with the Harlem, the Dutcliess and Columbia, and the Pough- 
keepsie and Eastern Railroads. 

Salisbury. 

" O, this silence in the air, this silence on the mountains, this silence on the 
lakes On either side, to the E. and to the W., ever- varying mountain- 
forms frame the horizon. There is a constant succession ol' hills swelling into 
mountains, and of mountains flowing down into hills. The hues of green in 
trees, in grasses, and in various harvests arc endlessly contrasted. At Salisbury 
you come under the shadow of the Taconic Range. Here you may well spend a 
week, for the sake of the rides and the objects of curiosity. 4 M. to tlie E. are 
the Falls of the Housatonic, called Canaan Falls, very beautiful, and worthy of 
nuieh longer study tlian they usually get. Pi-ospect Hill, not far from Falls Vil- 
lage, affords altogether the most beautiful view of any of the many peaks with 
which this neighborhood abounds." (This, and the other quotations under Salis- 
bury, are from Beeeher's Star Papers). 

Hotels. — Maplo Shade ; Rocktj-Dell House, at Lime Rock ; Wononsko and 
Lakeville, at Lakeville. 

The road to Falls Village leads for 2 M, doAvn a nan-ow valley rich in 
grain, and then to the E. over bold spurs of Wolonanchu Mt. with Pros- 
pect Mt. on the 1. , and rapidly changing views of the Housatonic Valley. 
Or, without crossing Wolonanchu, the road down the valley may be fol- 
lowed to the hamlet of Lime Rock and the borders of the Mts. of Sharon. 

A favorite excursion is to the Bald Peak on Mt. Rig-a. From Salisbury 
to the Mountain Pond on Riga it is 4 M. of easy ascent, most of the way 
along the edge of a ravine filled with resounding, but invisible, cascades. 
A road leads along the plateau to the base of Bald Peak, whence the as- 
cent must be made by a rude path. The view from the summit is very 
extensive, embracing on the W. the Oblong, Buck, and Catskill Mts. in 
N. Y., on the S. the wilderness of high hills which form Sharon, on the 
E. Canaan Mt., Rarack Matiif, and the lakes of Salisbury, and on the K 
Race, Alander, and Everett Mts. in Mass. From the little cluster of 
houses near the pond on Mt. Riga, one can return to Salisbury, via Lake- 
ville, by a road over the brow of the hill, or by a slightly longer road 
(8 M.) leading down the side of a water-course with pretty views of the 
lakes, to Ore Hill (4 M.), the centre of the iron-raining industries of the 
town. There are 5 iron-mines in Salisbury, employing 240 men, and sup- 
plying metal to the forges, anchor- works, and foundries which abound on 
6 



122 Route 20. SALISBURY. 

T A ;i ici«i the miners of Salisbury 

the streams of N. W, Conn. In Apn 18«1' *_^; ™\„j„ eannon-Uall. 

sent 100 tons „t u-on to t,«, govennne. t, o b mad ^^^^ _^^^^ ^,^ 

From Ore Hill (wWeh « wi lun 1, «■ °t the !*<> j,^^ „,i„,,. 

„ear the railway track a^a P-- .^^ ^U a"' Wononseapanurc, pleasant 
As the road passes the lakes vvono.ii i^^,.,,. above their quiet 

views are obtained and a^^-J^XiaUis -to stately old man- 
waters. Between the road and he 1^">» '^^ ^j^^t ^„a the 
sion of the Holley family, ^'"l ,'^y \''" ''^n divtae Ion" Pre ident of 
birthplace of Horace HoUe, ^^^; ^f^'^l^^Zl NY. lawyer and 
Transylvania University, and ° O. L PoH^^y * ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ .^^ 

jonrnalist. On "^ °^, ^; ^e i„Lile, where, by ski.fnl treat- 
buildings of the State Hospital lor l j„.„,„ped into action, use- 
„ent, thethonght-germsuistr^Unn,^^^^^^^^^^ P^^^^^^ ^^^^^^,,^ ^^^ 
ful instruction is imparted, and many 

elevated, and sent forth '^ ^^^^^ :^'i^JZI a hill wMch 
pital accommodates about 50 patients an i ^^^^^ 

commands fine views of the al.e and of M'»," ^^- m,. Beecher 

charming lakes, a ride of IJ f-;'™S,n„f„trbe taken to Brace 
suggests that after '-""^ ^a f -^. ^ - J° .^^ ."f^,,, ,,, ..^ water, 

^:si:;^s,r -r;, ;:T^ airxl M.. and wHoHy .ong t,. moan- 

'trils. .alls are i*o. . M^^^ ^tS^S^tS 

Copake station on the ll-^™ \f,; J'",Vd was much visited before the 
which has been well painted by fLenseii, 

destruction of the hotel by fire. , ■ j^ is ti,e antithesis of 

4M. N. of Salisb,iryis«"SagesRavine, Ineh 1^ ^^_ 

Bash-Bish. Sage. Eavine, not withont ^an^-' ^^ ^ J.^.ty! is yet 
tractions in its beauty ; B^'^''"''';'''/" ''"";,.,„. ™gged, full of rocks, 
„ost remarkable for grandeur »" jj ' \;„,,Jred to beauty and 

cascades, grand -»t-'f ' ^l^^f^r hen A «-' -1 ""'^- ' 
softness by various and abundant ""f^"^' "' / New York to see 

would willingly make the jom-ney """^J-^^^X^^^^^tiful falls may be 
either of them. J^-' '''l™^ ,"' ! ite n^rd^Vrton-s Falls." The 
seen alter heavy rains which ha e ^e- "ame* ^^_^^ 

way to the ravine l^ads a ™g the under mou ^^^_^^ ^^^^^^.^^^^ 

before reaching a blacksinith's *» f *^ ^„"^" °„,, ;„ alongside, by tak- 
there is a small hut on the 1., and tlie ficld-ioaa tur 
* Iwn bars. It is best to ^^XZ^^t^Z^:;^^. The 

take the first path to *";,-« "'"f^rUpper Falls (well rep- 
principal falls are knovv as to Lo.,Tvvm, ^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^ 

nir f The^vX v h^nkr-5.i 'h. i^ >- -- -•-^^' ^'--- ''' 



SALISBURY. Rotde20. 123 

})eaTity, Avill he worth all the pains you may take to climb through it. 
One requires a good foot, a strong hand, and a clear head, and then there 
is but little danger," though the path is soon lost in a perfect chaos of 
rocks. Heavy gloves and boots are necessary, and the ascent is not rec- 
ommended for ladies, although several have accomplished it. An obscure 
moantain road leads to the vicinity of the upper end of the ravine, but 
the descent is harder than the ascent. 

From Salisbury, by Sage's Ravine, N. into Massachusetts, runs the 
under-mountain road, along the foot of the Taconic Range, to Sheffield and 
the Berkshire Hills. From the ravine to Salisbury, visitors sometimes 
return by way of the Twin Lakes, a longer but pleasanter route. 

Tlie * Twin Lakes are gained from Salisbury by a road passing along 
the low spurs of Rarack MatifF Mt., with the isolated mass of Lion's Head 
on the W. Tlie beautiful lakes of Washining and Washiiiee are soon 
reached, and the liigh hills in the vicinity (Tom's Mt., Boar Mt.) are seen 
mirrored in them. Near the S. shore of Washinee a road diverges to the 
1. through the thick pines, to a remarkable cave. Tlais was but lately 
discovered by a hunting dog chasing a small animal into it, and the 
hunters, imeasy at his long absence, tore away the debris from the hole 
and entered. At a hut near the cave, v/here the keys are kept, visitors 
can get appropriate clothing, lights, and refreshments. The main cavern 
has been explored for about 700 ft., and its course trends steadily down- 
ward. The curious forms assumed by stalagmites are well shown here. 
In one place a stone lady is seen, facing the wall ; in another, vast num- 
bers of stalactitic candles depend from the roof; and numerous other 
marvels are found by imaginative visitors. The village and station of 
Chapinsville is situated near the lakes. Mr. Beecher speaks of tlie lake 
rides as "extremely beautiful. But they should always be afternoon 
rides ; for these discreet lakes do not choose to give out their full charms 
except at about an hour before sunset." 

Rides are taken from Salisbury through the romantic hills of Cornwall 
and Sharon, and even as far as Great Barrington (N.), and Litchfield 
(S. E.). 

Salisbury was first settled by the Dutch in 1720, who lived in peare Avitli the 
Indian tribe who held the valley and of whom no relic remains save the quaint 
nanic.5 which they gave to lakes and Mts. This was the farthest advance of the 
timi.l Hollanders on that Alpine land (the present Mass., Conn, and Vt ) which 
was portrayed on theirmaps by a blank white space(as Greenland is on onrraaps> 
niscribed with the cool word " Winterberg." The word " Housatonic " has given 
rise to more controversy among antiquarians and philologists than almost any other 
Indian word, and one good authority removes it from an aVjoriginal derivation 
audrlaims that it is a euphonic change of "Westenhok" (Western corner or 
noo.c), I he name given to the Dutch settlement here as being in a western nook of 
the rugged hills which stretch away E. toward tlie Conn. River. But in 1740 the 
restless Anglo-American wave of advance reached this point. There are no Dutch 
or Indians there now. 



124 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YOEK. 



21. Boston to New York. 

The great Express route, A'ia Springfield and Hartford. There are three through 
express trains daily in 6-8 hours. Distance, 236 M. ; fare, $0.00. This is the 
most popular and pleasant of the railway routes to New York, passing through 
the large cities of Worcester, Springfield, and Hartford, and following the rich 
valley of the Connecticut for a great distance. Elegant parlor and sleeping cars 
are attached to all through trains. By leaving Boston at 9 in the morning, one 
can pass over this route by daylight ; while by leaving at 10.30, P. M., one 

sleeps all night (.$1.50 for a berth in the sleepmg-car) and reaches New York at 
G.25 o'clock in the morning. 

The train leaves the terminal depot in Boston (comer of South and 
Kneeland Streets), and passes out over the Back Bay lands. Charles 
River is approached on the r., and a fine view is given of the compact and 
more ancient parts of Boston, crowned Ly the State House dome. Beyond 
the city, and apparently at the end of the lake-like widenings of the river, 
the populous heiglits of Cliarlestown are seen, wliile Cambridge lifts her 
spires on the nearer western shores. The line crosses the town of Brook- 
line, studded with pretty suburban villages, and stops at Brighton (Cattle 
Fair Hotel), celebrated for its great cattle-market. The stock-trains on 
this railroad bring immense numbers of cattle, sheep, and swine from 
the West, Avhich are here made into beef, mutton, and pork, for the daily 
needs of Boston. The sheds, yards, and pens cover many acres, and the 
business has been increasing for scores of years. As far back as 1S37, the 
yearly sales were ,$2,500,000. N. of the station is seen the tower on Mt. 
Auburn, and the U. S. Arsenal at Watertowni, on the other bank of the 
Charles. Newton is next entered, a wealthy suburban city (valuation, 
% 18,000,000), with a population of 20,000. Newton Corner is near the 
ancient Nonantum Hill, whei'e the Apostle Eliot first preached to the 
Indians (probably the jiresent Mt. Ida, from which a pleasant view is 
obtained). This village has a public library in an elegant and costly stone 
building, and three or four churches. From this point to Waltham it is 
3-4 M., to the Watertown Arsenal and Mt. Auburn, 2-3 M., and to the 
Baptist Theological Seminary at Newton Centre, 2-3 M. S. The line 
now passes Newtonville {\\ M, N. of Grove Hill Cemetery), W. Newton 
(2 M. S. of the Watch Factory at Waltham), and Auburndale (the seat of 
the Laselle Female Seminary). These villages are all in 
Ne^vton, From Pdverside Station, a branch track runs S. to the manu- 
factories at Newton Upper Falls. Stations, Grantville (a factory and 
residence village), and Welleslev, a picturesque suburban village, near 
Lake Walian, the * Hottl Wclledt-y (^unnner-board), and the famous 
Welleslev College (which is seen on the 1.). 

Naticfi: ( Wilson House ; Everett) is a slioemaking town of 10,000 in- 
habitants, near the Charles River. A branch-line runs N. W. 4 M. to 
Saxonville, the seat of blanket and worsted-yarn mills, on the Sudl)ury 
River, near Nob-cot Hill. S. Nailclc (Bailey's Hotel), 2 M. by stage from 
Wellesley, is a lovely village near the Began Hill, on the Charles River, 
with 3 ciiurches, Eliot's oak, and an Indian cemetery. 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 125 

In 1651 the Christian tribe of Nonantum, which had embraced the faith after 
the preaching of Eliot, removed to Natick, where they formed a government 
based on the ISth chapter of Exodus, witli rulers of hundreds, of fifties, and of 
tens. Their village consisted of three streets lined Avith gardens and huts, a 
building for a church and school, a large, circular fort, and a bridge over the river. 
Tlie Bible was translated into tlieii language by Eliot, and published at Cam- 
bridge in 1663 (second edition in 1685), whose title-page read as follows : 
"Mamusse Wunneetupanatamwe Up Bidlum God Naneeswe Nukkone Testament 
Kah Work "Wusku Testament." But despite the tender care of the colony, the 
Indian church and tribe suffered the usual fate of inferior races in the presence of 
Anglo-Americans, and died out from the opei'ation of internal causes. 

Just N. of Natick, across the track, and visible from the train soon 
after leaving the station, is Cochitaate Lake, fi-om wliich the water supply 
of Boston is carried to that city by a long and sinuous aqueduct. 

S. Framingliani {S. Framingham Hotel) has three straw-hat factories 
and the villas of several Bostonians; and is near the great Methodist 
camp-meeting ground, the Sunday-school assembly ("The Chautauqua 
of New England"), and the fort and camp-ground annually occupied by 
the brigades of Mass. militia. The ancient elm-shaded village of Fra- 
mingham {Framinfjham Hotel) is 2^-3 M. N., with its fine memorial 
hall and library' and 2 churches. On Bear Hill is the State Normal School. 

A railway runs hence S. W. 12 M. across the shocmaking hill-town oi HoUislon 
(Ilollis House), to Milfor«l {Mansion House), a handsome shoe-manufacturing 
village, ou higli ground. The town lias 11,000 inhabitants, and produces much 
milk, fruit, and market-produce. Semi-daily stages run li M. S. W. to IFopedale, 
a hamlet of 600 inhabitants, in a lovely valley, with tlie cotton-machinery works of 
George Draper & Sous. Semi-daily stages run 3 M S. ^V . from Miiford to Meiidon 
{Addins House ; JMendon Hotel), a picturesque hill-town devoted to farming, near 
the pretty Nipmuck Pond. II. K. from Miiford to Boston in li hr., see page 117 ; 
also to Ashland, 12 M. N. 

The Lowell Division runs from S. Framingham to Lowell, 28 M. N. Stations, 
Framingham and Sudbury. Sudbury was settled in 1638, and in 1676 was 
the scene of a bloody contest, when 70 men, marching to relievo Marlboro', 
wei'e ambushed here by Indians. 26 of the colonists were killed on the held, 
and the rtimainder were captured, and many of them were put to death by ter- 
rible tortures. A monument to their memory was erected on the field, by President 
Wadsworth, of Harvard College, whose father was captain of the defeated party. 

In Suilbiiry was a famous old tavern in the colonial days, which, during the 
mnrcli of the western counties' militia on Boston, was a busy place. This is the 
" Wayside Inn " of Longfellow's poems, the purer, fairer Canterbury Tales of 
American literature ; — 

" As ancient is this hostelry 
As any in the land may he, 
Built m the old Colonial day, 
When men lived in a grander way, 
With ampler hospitality. 

A region of repose it seems, 

A place of'slumher and of dreams, 

Remote among the wooded hills." 

The characters represented auKmg the story-tellers "around the fireside at 
tiieir ease" were as follows : Tlie Landlord, "grave in his aspect and attire," waa 
yquire Lyman Howe, of Sudbury. The 

" Student of old books and ways. 
With tales of Flores and Blanehefleur 
Sir Ferumbras, Sir Eglaniour," 

v/as young Henry Wales. The yoimg iSicilian, 



12G Route ^21. BOSTON TO NEW \ORK. 

" In sight of Etna bred and bom," 

was Luigi Monti, American oonsul at Palermo. The "Theologian, from the 
school of Cambridge on the Charles," was Prof. Treadwell, of Harvard. The 
Poet was T. W. Parsons, of Boston, translator of Dante's "Inferno," and anthop 
of many short poems. The " blue-eyed Norseman," who bore the Stradivarius 
violin, " a miracle of the lutist's art," and sang the Saga of King Olaf, was Ole 
Bull. Tlie inn still stands, 2 M. W. of Sudbury proper. 

lieyond Sudbury is Concord Junction, where the Fitchburg Railroad crosses 
the present route. Station, Acton (see page 410), whence in;irched a company 
of minute-men, who were among the flrst engaged at the battle of Concord. Tlieir 
captain was killed at the tight by the bridge. The line crosses the towns of Car- 
lisle and Chelmsford, and stops at Lowell. 

Another division of this railroad runs from S. Fraraingham to Fitchburg. Sta- 
tion, Framingham Centre, built around a level Green, in a large farming town. 
The great tide of travel between Boston and the West formerly passed through 
this village, which then had a famous inn. The town hall, old church, and 
Academy (founded 1792) front on the Green. The line now passes across the 
farming town of Southboro', and enters fair and fertile Marlboro'. This was the 
site of the Christian Indian village of Okomniakamesitt, and was colonized by 
Sudbury people in 1655. Its first pastor (1666- 1701) " uniformly refused baptism 
to children born on the Sabbath." At Marlboro' the present route connects with 
a branch of the Fitchburg Railroad. Northboro' is the next town, and is devoted 
to farming and cattle-raising. The vilhige churchyard contains the grave of the 
Rabbi Judah Monis, who renounced Judaism in favor of Christianity in 1722, and 
became teacher of Hebrew at Harvard College, wliere he remained till his death 
in 1761. The train crosses the Assabet River E. of the station, and then passes 
on through the town of Berlin to Clinton (Clinton House), a busy village at the 
junction of the Worcester and Nashua Railroad. At Pratt's Junction the Fitch- 
burg and Worcester Railroad is crossed, and tl:e train runs across Leominster, 
with occasional views of Wachusett Mountain on the W. The central village of 
Leominster is finely situated. Soon after leaving this station the train reaches 
Fitchburg. 

From S. Framingliam the main line follows the Sudbury River, which 
it often approaches and once or twice crosses. Stations, Ashland (Cen- 
tral House), Cordaville, South ville, and Westboro' (Westboro' Hotel). 
This is the seat of the State Reform School and a large Avater-cure estab- 
lishment. 3|- M. S. E. of the station are the Hopkinton Springs (small 
hotel) near the large and handsome Whitehall Pond, abounding in fish. 
Tliere are three springs, all different, and carbonate of lime and iron are 
the chief ingredients. This was formerly a fashionable resort, and is on 
the old Indian domain of Maguncook. 

Station, Grafto7i (the Indian Hassanamesit), Avith 3 small hotels, on a 
reservation of 4 M. square, given by the colony to a tribe of Christian 
Indians, Shrewsbury is a town just N. of the track, where Avas born 
Artemas Ward, major of the 8th Mass. Reg. at the siege of Louisbourg 
(1758), and commander of the army besieging Boston until the arrival of 
Washington. Levi Pease Avas born -here, Avho started the first line of 
mail stages between Boston and Ncav York (1784), previous to Avhich a 
fortnightly mail Avas borne betAveen the tAvo places, in saddle-bags. 

Beyond MiUbury (near NeAV-England Village, and with a branch to 
Millbury Village, 3 M.), the line runs N. by Lake Quinsigamond, a deep 
and narrow loch, 4 M. long, Avith 12 islands, boat-liouses, A-jllas, restau- 
rants, sunmier-cottages, &c. Its hotels arc the Island House and the 



WORCESTEE. Route 21. 127 

Hotel Eyrie. Dummy cars and omnibuses run hitlier several times daily 
from Worcester; and small steamboats run hourly to the Eyrie, King's 
Toint (small hotel), the Narrows, Quinsigamond Park, and Ilolden's Grove. 

Worcester. 

Hotels. —Bay-State Ilou^e, S3 50, corner of Mahi and Exohancre Sts. : Linnoln 
House, S3.50, Elm St.; Waldo House, Waldo St.; Exchange Hotel; Wave r ley ; 
Elmwood. OQ Webster Square ; Continental ; United States. 

Horse-car.s on iMaiu St., from Welister Square to Adams Square, on Lincoln 
St. ; and on Front St. to the Union Railroad Station. 

//arAs, 50 cts. eacli passenger within the mile circle. Herdics run regularly on 
Main, Front, and Pleasant Sts., &c. 

Stages to Quinsigamond, S. Worcester, Oakham, Shrewsbury (5 M.), and Marl- 
boro', Leicester (6 M.I, and Spencer, Paxton (8 M), Ooldbi-ook, .and Barre. 

Kailr:>a«ls, to Providence (Route 10), Norwich, Nashua (Route 13), Albany 
(Route 22), Barre, Gardner, Fitchburg, Boston, and Lake Quinsigamond. 

Worcester, the second city in wealth and population in the Common- 
wealth, and the capital of Worcester County, is situated among a group 
oC hills on the Blackstone River. Its manufacturing interests have ris(>n 
rapidly to a commanding position, being favored by the central location 
of the city, and the large railroad system converging there. The popula- 
tion is over 65.000. There are 46 churches, and 5 societies of Irish, 3 of 
Germans, 2 of French-Canadians, and others of English and Swedes. 

Worcester claims the name of an academic city, in virtue of its numer- 
ous fine schools. Its Classical and English High School employs 4 mas- 
ters and 5 assistants, and has a noble building, which is snrmounted by a 
graceful tower terminating in a spire. This tower is a copy of one of 
tlie best European campaniles, but is unfortiuiately too slender in com- 
parison with the heavy mass of the building. Near Main 8t. on the S. 
is the celebrated Oread Srminarij (now closed), in picturesque stone 
buildings located on a hill and surrounded by trees. The castle-like 
structure, with embattled towers, on a commanding hill S. E. of the city 
was built for a Medical School, but is now used as an academy under the 
care of the Baptist Church. The Roman Catliolic College of the Holy 
Cross occupies an extensive range of imposing buildings on Packachoag 
Hill, 2 M. S. of the city, and is well attended by the youth of that church 
from all parts of New England. A State Normal School occupies a hill 
E. of Lincoln Scpiare, and across the valley to the W. are the buildings 
of the Free Institute of Industrial Science, with lectures, laboratories, 
machine-shops, and all appliances for learning young men to be practical 
architects, carpenters, engineers, chemists, civil engineers, &;c. " The 
ultimate end of this institution is the elevation of the mechanic by giv- 
ing him thorough and complete scientific Icnowledge on which he may 
base his future work." The school is richly endowed, and is free to 
young men of this county (others pay $ 100 a year). Boynton Hall (named 
ill honor of the founder of the school) is a graceful and ornate stone build- 
ing. l-?j- M. N. of W^ircester is the Hig/iland Military/ School, widely 
kjiov.ji for the string'nit thoroughness of its discipline. 



128 noate^l. WORCESTER. 

The State Lunatic Asylum, on Millstone Hill, overlooking Lake Quin- 

sigamond, cost $ 1,;J50, 000, and is an imposing pile of granite buildings, 

€11 echelon^ with a high tower. It accommodates 700 patients. The State 

Asylum for the Chronic Insane holds 400 more. Hope Cemetery and 

Rural Cemetery are attractive burial-grounds. The Plymouth Church 

(Pearl St.) and St. PauTs Catholic Church are stately granite buildings. 

There is a chime often Troy bells in I'lymouth-Church tower. All-Saiuts (Epis.), 
on Jrving .St., is the fianilsouiest church in tiic city, a perfect geui in brownstone. 
George IJancroft was horn iu a house now standing on Salisbury St. The Cdy 
Jlospltal , ou a liill to the \V. of the city, is an iuipo.-ing brick building. 

Main St. is about 2 M. long, and contains the principal business houses 
and hotels. It is a wide, pleasant street, well lined with trees, and adorned 
with some fine commercial buildings. Near its lower end the Jesuit Col- 
lege is seen across a broad valley. The Common contains the Old South 
Church, the City Hall, and the Soldiers' and Bigelow Monuments, while four 
other churches are seen on its sides. Passing N. on Main St. many tine 
business blocks are seen, with St. Paul's Catholic Church, Trinitj' M. E. 
Church, the towers of the High School, and numerous tall spires on the 
hills to the 1. On the r. is Mechanics' Hall, a fine audience-chamber 
seating 2,500, with a brown-stone front in rich Corinthian architecture. 
On side-streets diverging to the 1. in this vicinity are the Post-Cfiice, 
* Episcnpal Church, the Agric. Hall, b^lm Park, and the Free Library (Elm 
St.). The latter contains 00,000 volumes, being especially rich in mechan- 
ics and medical Avorks, while its reading-room (open from 9 A. M. until 
9 P. 31.) has 24^} different magazines and papers, in 4 languages. On 
Foster St. are the rooms of the Natural History Society with valuable 
cabinets (open Wednesday afternoons), and the library (8,000 vols.) and 
collections of the Society of ArUiquity. On INIairi St. beyond Mechanics' 
Hall and the Bay State House, is the old Exchange Hotel, a famous inn 
of the colonial days, where Washington and Lafayette have stojiped. 
Just beyond is Lincoln Square, where, on a high terrace, are seen the 
First Unitarian Church, the granite Court House with its classic front, 
and the neat building of the * American Antiquarian Society. 

In the latter structure is preserved a valuable library of 80,000 volumes, with 
ancient portraits of Samuel, Increase, and Cotton ]\Iather and other Puritan 
divines ; Governors Wiiithrop, Endicott, and other founders of the State. Mr.ny 
busts adorn the walls, and there are large easts of Michael Angclo's JVIoses, and 
Christ (houglit in Rome by Hon. Stejihen Salisbury). In glass cases about tl;e 
hall are several literary curiosities, ancient black-letter MSS on vellum (15th 
century) ; an elegant Persian MS. richly illuminated (date, 14S0) ; 3 British tax- 
stamps of 1763 ; MS.- sermons of microscopic fineness written by old Puritan 
pastors : Latin hooks printed at Rome and Venice in 1475-0; Cranmer's Bible 
(1538) ; Ptolemy's Gengiaphy ; missals on vellum ; ami a superb * Koran in Arabic, 
brilliantly illuminated. Two cases of Indian relics are near the entrance to the 
hall. This collection is open, 9-12, and '2-5 o'clock daily, except Saturday ami 
Sunday. From the hill behind the building, the Free Industrial School and the 
Normal School may be seen. 

On the Common, near the Old South Church, is a pretty English Golluc 



WORCESTER. Route 21. 120 

monument, nnilt of granite and Tuscan marble, over the remains of 
• Timothy Bigelow, Colonel of the 15tli Mass. Continental Regiment. At 
the N. E. corner is the * Soldiers' Monument, wliich was designed by 
Randolph Rogers, and consists of a tall Corintliian column, surmounted 
by a statue of Victory, standing on a globe, with a drawn sword in her 
"uplifted hand. Aroimd the column are colossal bronze statues (cast at 
Munich) representing soldiers of the American infantry, cavalry, artil- 
lery, and marine service. 

The Union Railroad Station is an imposing granite building, 514 ft. 
long and '256 ft. wide, witli a graceful stone clock-tower 200 ft. high. It 
contains a restaurant, waiting-roonus, news-stand, etc. From this station 
start the trains of tlie Boston & Albany, Norwich & Worcester, Provi- 
dence & Worcester, Worcester & Nashua, and Boston, Barre k Gardner 
Railroads. 

In 1669 a legislative committee located a settlement for 30 families at Worces- 
ter (Saxon, Weqera, Ceaster, War-Castle), as a lialf-way halting-place between the 
valley-towns and tlie coast. The citadel of this colony was near tlie present 
corner of Main aiid Columbia Streets. The Indians soon forced tlie evacuation 
of the settlement, and it lay desolate from 1702 to 1713, when it was reoccupied, 
and stern defensive laws were passed. A fortress-like church was built (on the 
Common), and each man was ordered to carry to Sunday services his nuisket and 
6 rounds of ammunition. In 1720 some Scotch Presbyterian immigrants built a 
churcli of their own, wliich was assaulted and torn dov/n by the Puritan colonists 
as a cradle of heresy. In 1755 numerous exiled Aeadians were sent here, and soon 
after tlie " Massachusetts Spy " newspaper (still published there) began to fan tlie 
flames of revolution. April 19, 1775, a breathless messenger bore into town, 
the news of the battle of Lexington. His white horse, flecked with blood and 
foam, fell dead on Main St., but he rode westv.'ard on another, while the minute- 
men move<l on Boston by thousands. In July. 1776, the Sons of Freedom had a 
grand feast, and among their toasts were, " May the freedom and independence 
of America endure till the sun grows dim with age, and this earth returns to 
chaos." "Perpetual itching without the benefit of scratching, to the enemies of 
America." The town sent 27 offlcers and 409 men to the army. In 178G, Worcester 
was taken, and its courts closed by 800 of Shays' insurgents, wearing the emble- 
matic pine-branch. Father Fitton, on a missionary tour in 1834, found four 
Catholic familiesin Worcester : that denomination now has six churches in the 
city, including I\otrc Dame des Canadians. The population in 1830 was 4,082. In 
1861, at the very horn- when the 6th Mass. was fighting in the streets of Baltimore, 
the Bigelow Monument was dedicated here. Said Judge Thomas at the dedica- 
tion, " The cry to-day in the streets of this beautiful city is that which 86 years 

ago startled the quiet village, ' To arms ! ' So be it, to arms ! It will cost 

us a long, severe, and bitter struggle, but this rebellion must be crushed out. 
Tiiere is f<n- us no hope of freedom, of peace, of safety even, till this work is fully 
done. Seven years of war were spent in the purchase of our freed<mi ; seven more 
of toil in giving it organic life. If seven years of toil and blood are spent in 
securing it, in our national redemption, they will be wisely, divinely spent, 
with the blessing of God and all coming generations of men." Within five months 
5,000 men marclied from the Park to the Potomac. The 15th Mass. (Worcester Co.) 
Reg. paraded here liefore leaving, and received their colors from the ladies. " I 
am deputed by the ladies of Worcester to present to you this banner. Eighty- 
four years ago to-day there -was mustering in these streets the first regiment ever 
raised in Worcester Co. for actual warfare, the 15th Reg. of the Mass. Line. What 
hard-fought fields at Monmouth and Trenton, what sufferings at Valley Forge, 
what glory and victory at Saratoga and Yorktown, have made that name famous ! 
. . . What they won for us, it is yours to preserve for us." — Judge Hoar. 



130 Route ^1. BROOKFIELD. 

After leaving Worcester the line soon passes Grovv-1 Hill (on the r.) and 
reaches Rochdale (Union Hotel), 4 M. S. of Leicester, a beautiful ham- ■ 
let on Strawberry Hill, in a farming town of 2,770 inhabitants, witli 8 
ch\irches, a memorial hall, academj% and librarj'. Charlton is 3 M .N. of 
Charlton Centre {BeUevue House), a lofty and far-viewing village, near 
the romantic Bay Path and under Muggett Hill, whence 19 villages and 
parts of 4 States are seen. Spencer is 2 M. S. of Spencer Centre 
(* Spencer Hotel), a large and pretty village with a library, paper, large 
town-hall, and 4 churches. Here w^as born Elias Howe, Jr., who invented 
the sewing-machine. 

From E. Broul:Jield {E. Brookfield House; Lake-View) a branch runs 
to N. Brookfield (Batcheller House), a large shoemaking village in a rich 
farming town. Daily stages 7 M. N. to Oakham (Coldbrook House). 

Brookfield {Brookjidd House) is a well-to-do ahoemaking village. 

This town was settled on the Indian lands of Quaboag, by Ipswich men, in 
1660. In lG7a a lart;e roree of Nipinucks advanced on the place. Envoys were 
sent out to treat with the Indians, but six of them were killed, and the villajre 
(the present W. Brooktiekl) was attacked. The inhabitants had gathered in a 
garrison-h.ouse, winch, after the rest of the village had been plundered and burnt, 
was attacked by the enemy. For three long days the house was defended with 
desperate bravery, though shot and flaming arrows were showered against it. 
Then a cart full of blazing flax and straw was pushed against it, and the defence 
would have lieen ended, but for a sudden shower which extinguished the rising 
flames. After this shower, which they held to be nuraculous, a brave partisan 
oflicer with a trooj) of light horse galloped in from Lancaster, after a forced 
march of 30 M., and scattered the besiegers. In 1076, the evacuation of the 
town was ordered, as a military necessity, by the Legislature, and it remained 
desolate for VI vears. The Qual'joag Pond is a large pond S. of the village, whose 
waters flow by "the Sashaway River through the Poduuk Meadows, to the Chico- 
pee. 

W. Brookfield ( Wirkahoag House) produces apples and boots. Lucy 
Stone and Austin Phelps were born here. Semi-daily stage, G M N. to 
Niiw Brainiree (New-Braintree House). Stations, Warren ( Warren 
Hotel), a pretty manufacturing village, among rounded hills; W. Warren 
(W. Warren House), with a large cotton-factory; W\ Brimfield. 

In the Brimfield churchyard (5-6 M. to the S. E.) is buried Gen. William 
Eaton, some time an officer in the U. S. Army, and then Consul to Tunis. In 
1805 he planned the restoration of Hamet, the rightful Bashaw of Trii)oli, and 
marched from Cairo, Egypt, Avith 400 Moslems and 100 Christians, across the 
desert. "With reckless bravery he stormed tin; ranij'arts of tlic Trii)olitan city of 
Derne, garrisoned by a force larger than his own. The United states having con- 
cliulcd "a peace, with the reignmg Bashaw, Eaton was forced to abandon his 
conquest, and he returned to Ariiei'ica, where he died (at Brimfield) in 1811. 

At Palmer {Nassowauno Hovse) the Ware-River and New-London 
Northern Railroads meet the preseid route. To the S. is seen the State 
Primary School, in Monson. Station, Wilbraham {AUis House), 2 M. 
from Wilbraham Centre, the seat of the great Wesleyan Academy. This 
town is famous for its beautiful scenery; and it has LG28 inhabitants, 
G churches, and woollen and paper mills. I'lom Indian-Orchard station 
horse-cars run N. W. lo the villag-e of the .^aaiL; name. 



SPRINGFIELD. Route 21. 131 

Hotels. — *IIaynes' Hotel, a large first class house at the centre of tl»c city 
(.? 2.50 - f 3.50 a day) ; * Massasoit House, alongside of the station ( .9 3 50 - >? 4 a day)'; 
Hotel Warwick, just N. of station (S^ 2 -.'? 2 50 a d.sy) ; Cooley's Hotel {.i? 2 a day)." 

Ileadinjj-rooms. — City Library, State St. (with museum) ; Y. M. C. A., Main 
St. Amusements at the Oiiera House, Main St. ; Roller Skating-riuk, Bridge St. 

Railroads. — The Boston and Albany, to Boston 98 M., to Albany 104 M. ; the 
New York, New Haven, and Hartford, to Hartford 26 M., New Haven 62 M., New 
York 136 M. ; the Conn River, to Greenfield 36 M.. and to the North ; the Athol 
Branch, to Athol in 48,\ M. ; N. Y. & N. E. R. R., to Hartford 31 M. These lines 
meet at the large central station. Horse-car.s nm on Main St., and to the 
Armory and Water-Shops. Al.so, to Brightwood and Mill River (South End). 

Springfield was settled by a company under Wihiam Pyuchon, in 1636, whose 
compact bei^au as follows : "Article I. Wee intend, by God's grace, as soon a.s 
wee can, with all convenient sx)eede, to procure some godly and faithful! minister, 
with wlKjnie wee propose to.joyne in church covenint to walk in all the ways of 
Christ, .\rticle II. Wee intend that our town shall be composed of fourty family's, 
or if wee think meete after to change our purpose ; yet not to exceed the number 
of fifty family's, rich anil poore." The town would have been abandoned at one 
time but for the oi'ders of the Legislature, forbidding the evacuation of Mass. 
settlements, whereupon the people ei'ected a strong palisade. Great suffering 
was experienced during the first winter, for the freezing of the river prevented 
vessels ascending with supplies. Several persons started for Boston, and were 
frozen on the way. Pynclion, the magistrate of Springfield, wrote an anti-Calvin- 
istic theological book hi 1650, which was condemned by the Legislature and burnt 
on Boston Common. He was deposed from his otfice, was forced, amid a storm 
of clerical wrath, to retract, and soon returned to England to escape ])ersecntion. 
In 107 J, while the train-bands of Si)ringlield were guarding Lladley, tlie Indians 
laid a plot to destroy the place. Their plan was exposed by a friendly Indian 
at Windsor, whence a rider was despatched, who reached Springfield at" dead of 
night, and aroused the people. Just as they had gained the shelter of three gar- 
rison-honses, 6)0 Indians entered the streets and burnt every other house in town. 
They successfully disputed the passage of the river against Major Treat's com- 
mand, and only retired at the approach of Mijor Pynchon and 200 men from Had- 
ley, le.aviiig behind them a sad scene of ruin and destruction. During the Revo- 
lution works for repairing muskets were established here, and also a caniton- 
foundry, at whicli were cast the guns of several of the batteries which were en- 
gaged in the battles near Saratoga. Jan. 25, 1787, 1,200 of Shays' rebels attacked 
the Arsenal, wliich was defended by 1,100 militia men. A few cannon-shot dis- 
persed the assailants. During the present century Springfield has grown rapidly, 
by reason of the establishment here of the U. S. Armory and numerous other 
manufactures, and by the convergence, at this point, of important railway systems. 

Springfield is a handsome city of over 35,000 inhahitauts, situated on 
the E. bank of the Connecticut River. Its principal thoroughfare is IMain 
St., a wide and level street, 3 M. long, adorned with many fine commer- 
cial buildings. The principal object of interest in the city is the 
* United States Armory, which is established on a park of 72 acres on 
Armory Ilill (E. of the station, and best reached byway of State St.). 
The buildings surround a great quadrangle called Armory Square, and 400 
men are constantly engaged making and repairing Springfield rifles and 
carbines, and experimental arms. The work is paid for by the piece, and 
the day of labor is 8 hrs. During the War of the Rebellion the works 
were run night and day for four years, and at one time over 3,000 men 
were employed. Nearls' 800,000 guns were made daring that time, at an 
expense of $ 12,000,000. The Arsenal is a large building on the W. of 
the quadrangle, in which 175,000 stand of arms are stored, rivalling in 
their symmetrical arrangement the similar collection in the Tower of 
London. 



132 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YOKK. 

" This is the Arsenal. From floo'- to ceilin?, 
I>ike a huge organ, rise tl\e burnished arms ; 
But from their silent pipes no anthem pealing 
Startles the villages with strange alarms. 

Ah! whnt a snnnd will rise — how wild and dreary^ 
When tlio dentli-ansrel totiehes those swift keys! 

W'hat lond I-iment nnd disinil Miserere 
Will mingle with their awful symi honies !" 

J.OXGFELLOW. 

From tlie tower of the Arsenal is gained a fine view of the city and its 
environs. Passes for a survey of the shops, &c., may be obtained at the 
Armory office. 1 M. S. E. are the Water-Shops. 

State St. and the vicinity of Winchester Park, Maple St., and Crescent 
Hill furnish pleasant drives among elegant villas, and afford extensive 
views of the charming valley. On Maple St. is the main entrance to the 
beautiful Sprinijfitld 6'e/»ei;ery/, covering 40 acres; and by Holland's " Bay 
Path," the present Bay St., is reached tiie new Oak-Grove Cemetery of 
90 acres, finely laid out. On Court Square is a heroic bronze statue of 
Miles Morgan, one of the early Puritan settlers of S[>ringtield. 

On State St., between Main St. and the Armory grounds, are several tine 
buildings. The *Cllurch of the Unity (on the r.) is one of the noblest 
ecclesiastical structures in the State, and, with its cloistei-ed jxirtico, broad 
windows, and lofty detai-hed tower and s})ire, it forms a strikingly beauti- 
ful object. Its archnecture is Gothic, and its nuderial is brown stone. 
Just above the church is the uuiipie and graceful builduig of the High 
School, and opposite the church is the *City Library, witli its handsome 
building. A library of 50,000 volumes is contained in a richlj- ornamented 
and well-arranged hall, while on the tloor below is a Museum (open 
Wednesday and Saturday, 2-5 P. M.) containing 000 stuffed birds, J20 
stuffed quadrupeds, and several thousand specimens of fossils, lish, reptiles. 
and minerals. There are also cabinets of Indian antiquities, and many 
interesting historical relics. Just above the Library is the Roman Catholic 
Cathedral of St. Michael. Court Square is near the centre of the city, 
and has on one side the City Kail, containing a hall which can contain 
3,000 persons. S. of Court Square is the * Court House of Hampden 
County, a massive new structure of granite, costing ^200,000. It has a 
tall tower, balconies, and other features drawn from Italian municipal 
palaces. The 1st Congregational Church (society founded 1G37) fionts 
on this square. In 1-M from the City Hall, passing N. W. on the busy 
and attractive Main St., one reaches Round Hill and the Memorial Church, 
built of granite in Gothic architecture. Hampden Park, near by, on the 
banks of the river, has line race-tracks, and is used for fairs. 

* Christ Church (Epis.) is a beautiful stone building in Norman-Gothic 
architecture, on ("hestr.ut St., W. of the City Library. The city contains 
30 churches, 4 daily and 8 weekly pajjcrs, 9 banks and 4 savings-banks, 
and 9 Masonic societies. Its valuation in 1883 was $ o5,000,879, and dur- 



WINDSOR. Runic 21. 133 

1112^ the same 3-ear its merchants liad $20,000,000 worth of wholesale trade 
from the valley-towns. 

Sprinp;field has .? S 000.000 investc.l in manufacturins:, employing 7.000 hands. 
Among the principal works aie tlio^^e of i^mitli and Wesson, where 600 men are 
employed in makini; iiistols. This roiiipany has made 150,000 revolvers for the 
Russian government. At Brijrhtwood (N of the city) is the Wasou Car Manufac- 
tory, whose buildings required 2,i)()0,0U0 bricks in their construction. These woiks 
employ 400 men, and turn out 100 passenger and 900-1,000 freight cars yearly, 
besides many tliousandcar-wheeis. The\ have niaile most of the cars for the Pacific 
Railroad and the New .iersey Centrrd, and also a superb car for the Egyptian Khe- 
dive. Among the other ip.dustries are (he Ames M'fg Co. (silver and bronzes), the 
Powers Paper Co., the Morgan Envelope Co., large paper-collarworks, the Milton 
Bradley Co 's games, whi])S, cigars, cloths, tools, buttons, jewelry, bricks, &c. 
Three-fourths of the fine paper made in the United States is turned out here and 
at llolyoke. 

Station, Longmeadow (the Indian Mas.sacsic), settled in 1614 on the 
long meadows by the Connecticut. It is a pretty village on a gentle 
swell near tlie intervales, and produces hay, grain, tobacco, and freestone. 

The State of Conn, is now entered, and the train stojis at Thompson- 
ville (Globe Hotel), the seat of the largest carpet-works in the country. 
Since 1828 this industry has been growing, until now it iises up 900 tons 
of inii^orted wool each year, and turns out 1,800,000 yards of ingrain and 
Venetian carpets, from 141 looms. 3-4 M. E. of this village is the large 
community of the Enfield Shakers. The village of Enfield (settled by 
Salem men, in 16S1) is a short distance S. of Thompsonville. 

Station, Wareliouse Point, where the line crosses the Conn. River by 
the * Iron Truss Bridge, a noble piece of engineering, built i;i Manchester, 
England, and set uf) here in 186G. The road-bed of 13 ft. wide is sus- 
taiiU'd 47 ft. above the water by wrought-iron trusses, held up l)y 17 
granite piers. The bridge is 1,525 ft. long and cost % 265,000. 

. At Hazardvllle, a few miles N. E., are the powder- w^orks of Col. Hazard. These 
are the largest iu En.^i ind or A;n'jri-;a, and t.'ie former country boaght y I,2.j0,00J 
worth of Hazard's powder during the Crimean YV^ar, while vast amounts were 
made for the United IStates during the Secession War. 

Station, Windsor Locks (Charter Oak House), with iron and paper 
mills on the water-power afforded by a canal built before the era of rail- 
roads to enable vessels to pass the Enfield Falls and gain the Upper Conn. 
Tourists were formerlv thus carried from Springfield to New Haven. 
Branch R. R. 5 j\I. to SiiJJicld, a lovely old rural hamlet. The line crosses 
the Farmington River by a tine seven-arched bridge of red sandstone. 

Station, "Windsor (Alford House), settled in 1633-6 by men of Dor- 
chester, on the rich intervales of Mtittaneag. 

Ill addition to harassments from the ten Indian tribes with their 2,000 bo^vmen 
Wiio lived about Mattaneag, the Utile colony was early attacked by 70 Holland 
troops, sent by Gov. Van Twiller. The Dutch exi)edicion retired before the 
firm and fearless Puritans, and the Indians soon sold out. Rev. John Warliam, 
the pastor-chief, Vv'ho led this nomadic Don^estrian Cliurch iu its 14 days' march 
through tlie wilderness, waathe first of the New Euglaiul clergy who used notes in 
preaching. In lGi4 a road was built to Northampton, freight by sea to or from 



134 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

Boston costing at this time 33 per cent ad valorem. Matthew Grant came from 
Enyiand to Dorchester in l'J3(). and thence went to Windsor. The family lived 
hei'e for over a century, initii Noah Grant was killed in the battle of Lake George 
(1755). This officer was the great-grandfatlier of President Grant. Roger Wol- 
cott and his son Oliver, governors of Conn. 1751 -4, and 171)0-7, were born here. 
Oliver Ellsworth, U. S. Senator, 1789-95, and afterwards Chief Justice of the 
U. S., was horn here in 1745. Another native of Windsor was Gen. Phelps, who, 
with his associates, bought of Mass. and Conn. 5,500,000 acres of the Western 
wilderness, at a nominal price. These tracts were laid olf in townships and 
ranges, and sold to settlers. They now comprise the counties of Ontario and 
bteuben (New York), and the Western Reserve of Ohio. 

There is a long, "broad Green near the station, near which are the Wol- 
cott and Moore mansions, and the new Episcopal Clmrch, and just over the 
river, is the old Cong. Clmrch and the Green which was the cradle of 
Windsor, and is still called the Palisado. Tliis town grows much tobacco, 
of which 5,830,000 pounds were raised in the county in 1870. 

Hartford. 

Hotels. — * Allj'n House, a fine bro\vnstone building near the station, ac- 
commodating 300 guests. .^4.00 a day; ^ City Hotel, onMain tit., ii?3.00a day; 
the Unit<'d states and tlie American Hotels, on the old State House Square. 

Kailruacls. — The present route to Springtield and Boston (124 M.), New 
Haven and New York (109 JI.) ; the Hartford, Providence, and Pishkill, to ProNi- 
dence on the E. (90 M.) and Waterbury on the W. (32 M.) ; the Conn. Valley R. R. 
to Saybrook Point (44 jSI.) ; tlie Conn. Western, to Salisbury and .Millertim (09 M.). 

Steamers. — Daily to the river-landings and Sag Harbor (Long Island) in tlie 
morning ; daily, in tlie afiernoou, for the lower landings ; daily for the river- 
landings and New York City. 

Stages to Farmington, Broad Brook (14 M.), Wethersfleld, Rocky Hill, Crom- 
well, Marlboro (20 M.) ; to Bloomfield and Simsbury, N. Canton, and W. Hartlaud 
(30 M.). 

Horse-Cars rim along Main St. from Spring Grove Cemetery to Wethersfleld 
(7 JNI.), al.-,i) iinui tlie New Yi;>rk steamboat pier, at the font nf State St., tlivougli 
State and Asylum Sts. 2 M., passing the R. R. Station and the Deaf and Dumb 
Asylnm. 

f'arriages cost 50c. a course in the city, 75c. for 2 persons, and $1.00 for 3 
porsuiis. Diiuble fares between 12 and at night. By tlie hour, §2.00. 

Amusements and lectures freiiuently at Roberts' Opera House (an elegant 
auditorium), 395 Main St., or at Aliyn Hall, on Asylum St. near the Allyn House. 



Connecticut was first explored by the Dutch, one of Avhose sturdy mariners, 
Adrian Block, ascended the Conn. River as far as the Enhcld Falls in the 10-tou 
yacht, "(Jnrest" (1(;14). In 1633 the Dutch built a 2-gun fort, called the " llir.se 
of Ciood Hope," on the present site of Hartford, an<l lived peaceably, tilling the 
ground and trading with the Indians, until June, 163G, when Tlu)miis Hooker led 
liis church from Newtown through the wilderness, and settled here. The Park 
River atforded a water-jiower for a grist-mill, which was speedily utilized, and 
Windsor and Wethersfleld, i)i'eviou.sly more important, brought their grain here 
to be ground. The colony was named for an okl Saxon town 21 M. N. of London, 
derived from "the Ford of Harts." Three wat<4t-towers were built, and the men 
of the colony enrolled in train-bands, two thirds of whom had matchlocks, 
bandoleers, and rests, while the other third were aruied with pikes 10 ft. long, and 
guarded tlie standard. These train-bands stormed the breach in the Narragansett 
Fort light. Wahquimacut, sachem of the river tribes, deeded the laiuls to the 
settlers, and gave them a tribute of beaver-skins and corn, in return for their pro- 
tection against Pekoath, king of the Pequots, and the dreaded Mohawks. Under 
the iulluence of stern Puritan pastors. New Haven enacted the "Blue Laws," by 




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BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 135 

which the penalty of death was visited for the rrimes of idolatry nnchastitv 
witchcraft, blasphemy, murder, man-stealing, rebellion, smitini^ 'parents &(■ ' 
with savage laws against Sabbath-brealdng and the use of tobai-co. In 17G5 a 
stamp-agency was established liere, but it was speedily liroken np by an irru])tiou 
of 200 armed riders from Windham County. In 1790 -1800 the tov/u became an 
important point on tlie great Atlantic sta-e-road, and 16 lines of sta-^es centred 
here. De Warville wrote here, " In Conn. Nature and Art have displayed all tlieir 
treasures ; it is really the Paradise of the U. S. " ; and among other products of 
tlie 8tate, he speaks entliusiastically of " the fair Conn, girls." In December, 
1815, the famous Hartford Convention, comi)osed of 2tj delegates from the States 
of New Englaiul, met liere, to deliberate on the course of the general gov- 
ernment in the war with England, to wliich Avar many of the people in tliis 
section were opposed. In 1799 Hartford had a valuation of .<S 751 533 and iu 
ISIS its population wis 0,500, at wliich time a writer predicts "that it will con- 
tinue to extend its size, its interests, and its consequence." 

Hartford, "The Queen City of New England/' is the capital of the 
State of Conu., and is finely situated on low hills at the Junction of the 
I'ark and Conn. Rivers. It is noted for its benevolent and educational 
institutes, its extensive manufactures, and its powerful hisurance com- 
panies. The population is about 50,000. 

* Bushnell Park was named in honor of the late Rev. Dr. Horace 
Bushiiell, and is the most beautiful of its size (45 acres) in the country. 
It lies between the railioads and Main St., S. of the depot, and is in the 
centre of the city. Park PUver encircles it from S. W. ])y N. to S. E. A 
pleasant drive encircles the W. part, which contains the new State Capi- 
tol, the colossal bronze statue of the Episcopal Bishop Brownell (founder 
of Trinity College, and Bishop of Conn., 1S19-65), and a fine statue of 
Gen. Israel Putnam (by J. Q. A. Ward). Die E. part contains the foun- 
tain, and a statue of Dr. Horace Wells, of Hartford, erected by tlie city 
to his memory as tlie discoverer of aniesthesia. The Park abounds in 
graceful elms, and is kept iu a liigh state of cultivation. It is a popular 
resort on pleasant afternoons. 

The Congreg-ational Theological Institute (founded 1834, and has 
graduated 400 men) occu])ies a haudsome new bnildiiig. 

Of the 37 churches of the city, several are adorned with ivy of great 
luxuriance. The 1st Presbyterian is a neat Romanesque building of Conn, 
granite and Ohio stone, and the folloAving are built of red-stone, in Gothic 
forms: Christ, St. John's, Trinity, Incarnation, tlie 1st M. E., the South 
Baptist (with a fine portico supported by Caen stone columns), the Pearl 
St. Cong, (with a spire 212 ft. high). The three Cong, churches on Main 
St., the 1st Church (organized in 1633), the South Church (organized iu 
1GG9), and the 4th Church have fine buildings. The *Park Cong. Church 
is of sandstone, in the early English Gothic style, with stone columns along 
the aisles, and a timber roof. Tlie Catholics have 2 large stone churches 
(Sr. Peter's and the Cathedral of St. Patrick) and also a handsome cathe- 
dral, of recent erection. The * Church of the Good Shepherd (Episco- 



13G Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

jial), l)uilt 1)Y Mrs. Colt as a memorial of her husbaml and children, is a 
gem of Gothic areliitecture, built of Portland stone trimmed with Ohio 
white stone, with a spire 150 ft. high, containnig a sweet chime of bells. 
The W. front has a grand memorial window, in the centre St. Joseph 
carrjdng the child Jesus, above which is an angel with 3 children ; on the 
1. the angel of the resurrection, on the r. a singing angel. The clerestory 
windows are low and brilliant, while the chancel windows represent Christ 
and the 12 Apostles. The chancel is separated from the organ (on the 
r. ) and the baptistery (on the 1.) by cohunns of Scotch granite. The 
* baptismal font is sustained by a group of marble cherubs. 



On Asylum St. (also near the R. R. station, with its Italian campaniles) 
is the mansion long occupied by Mrs. Sigourney, the poetess. 1 M. from, 
the Park, on a hill adorned with many trees, is the picturesque and at- 
tractive home of Mr. S. L. Clemens (Mark Twain), the genial humorist. 

Back of the Cong. Cliurch, opposite the Athenaeum, is the ancient 
graveyard (entrance to the r. of the church). Here are many graves of 
the 17th and ISth century, with a massive sandstone monument to the 
memory of the first settlers. Two tables (on the r.) cover the remains of 
Tliomas Hooker, " the renowned minister of Hartford and pillar of Conn., 
the Light of the Western Churches " (Mather) ; and of Samuel Stone, a 
divine who died here in 16G3, and whose epitaph begins, 

" New England's glorj'and her radiant crowne 
Was he/\vho now cin softest bed ofdowne, 
Till glorious resurrection luoni iippoare. 
Doth safel3% sweetly sleepe in Jesus here." 

The Deaf and Dumh Institute was founded by Dr. Gallaudet in 1817, 
and is the oldest in America. The building (130 by 50 ft.) was erected 
in 1820, and stands on an embowered hill near the R. R. station, on 
Asylum St. It has 200 - 250 inmates. The Retreat for the Insane (es- 
tablished 1824) is a stately building of sandstone covered with gray 
cement, in the S. W. part of the city. From its great elevation, its 
vicinity commands fine valley-views. It has received over 4,000 patients, 
and has discharged 2,000 as cured. The City Hosjntal is near the Retreat, 
and is a large, plain, and commodious building of sandstone. In the 
opposite section of the city (Upper Main St.) is the State Arsenal, the 
Widows' Home, and the extensive North Cemetery. 

The old State House Square is in the heart of the city. Here stands 
the State House, an antiquated structure of brick, which dates from 1794. 
In its Senate chamber the Hartford Convention assembled in 1815. The 
building is now used as the (^ity Hall; and the National Government has 
erected a spacious new Post-Olhce on the square, near by. 



BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 137 

In Oct. 16S7, Sir Edmund Andros, the royal governor of New England, entej-ed 
Hartl'urd witii hi.s troo^js, and demanded the royal charter, the only safeguard of 
tJie liberties of Coun. During a stormy evening-meeting the lights were suddenly 
extinguisiied, and a bold colonial gentleman seized tiie cliarter and fled fortli. 
He hid it in a hollow iu an oak-tree, and there it stayed until Andros had left the 
town in great anger. The charter was ever after preserved, and the tree was held 
in increasing veneration until 1S56, when it Wiis blown down iu a storm. Itti 
place is now marked witli a marble slab. 

Mark Twain asserts that in a late visit to Hartford he saw articles as follows 
made from this tree : "a walking-stick, dog-collar, needle-case, tliree-legged stool, 
boot-jack, dinner-table, ten-pin alley, tooth-pick, and enough Charter Oak to 
build a i)lank-road from Hartford to Great Salt Lake City." 



Opposite State House Square is the superb gi^anite * building of the 
Conn. Mutual Insurance Company, massively constructed at a cost of 
$ 7 - 800,000, A short distance belov/ this building is the fine granite 
block belonging to the Hartford Fire Ins. Co. On I\Iain St. , alongside of 
the AtheuEeum, is the lofty * granite palace of the Cliarter Oak Insurance 
Co., which cost above $700,000, The beautiful halls and offices within 
should be visited, and by ascending in the elevator to the observatory on the 
roof (a courtesy granted by the company ; small fee to the conductor of 
the elevator), a fine view is obtained of the city and its environs. The 
elegantly finished sandstone office of the Etna Ins. Co. is nestled alongside 
of the Charter Oak building. There are 21 insurance companies in the 
city (9 Fire and 11 Life), having an aggregate capital amounting to scores 
of millions. 

Wadsworth Athensum. 

Wliile Arnold was plotting at West Point (17S0), Washington and Rocharabeau 
were making plans and enjoying hospitable cheer at the mansion (in Hartford) of 
Col. Wadsworth, Commissary-General of the Army. Wadsworth's son gave the 
lan^l, after removing the mansion, for a public library, and tlie present building 
(of Glastenbury gneiss, in castellated arcliitecture) was built from the proceed.? 
of a popular subscription of $ 52,000. On the lower floor of the Athenceiim is 
tlie Statuary Hall (fee 40 c), containing casts of Ganymede, Washington, Pan, the 
Shepherd Boy, tlie Truant, Genevieve, Calypso, and an allegorical figure of Com- 
merce, all hy Bartholomew ..who died at iSTaples, 185S). Casts, by the same de- 
signer, of Ruth and Naomi, Hagar and Ishmael, tlie. Morning Star, Belisarius at 
the Pinciau Gate. There are also casts of Schwantlialer's "Bavaria," and small 
busts (German) of Schou, Murillo, Correggio, Vela.squez, Domenichino, Raphael, 
Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Giiirlandaja, Fiesole, Mozart, Goethe, Andrea del 
Sarto, Bellini, Van Dyk, Rubens, Francia, Masaccio, Perugino, Claude Lorraine, 
Poussin, Van Eyk, Hemling, Diirer, Holbein, and Titian. 17 of Rogers's statuettes 
occupy one long shelf 

Busts in marble) of President Fillmore, and * Diana, by Bartholomew; Wads- 
worth, Horace Bushnell, and C. H. Olmstead, by Ives. 

Statues, Stella, and *Sapplio, Bartholomew, and an elaborate work, *Eve 
Repentant, his masterpiece. She is sitting with head bowed and hands clasped 
in contrition, while her long, luxuriant hair hangs down her back, and a serpent 
is seen curling about her on the ground. Tlie statue is upon an octagonal pedes- 
tal of marble, with the following well-designed bas-reliefs : 1st Panel, Creation of 
Womaii-, 2, the Temptation ; 3, the Fall ; 4, Hiding from God ; 5, the Expulsion 
from Eden ; 0, Lameutatiou ; 7, Tilling Llic Ground ; 8, the First-Boru. 



138 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 

On the upper floor is the Picture Gallery. West Wall. 93, Quebec, by Church ; 
94, View on the yus(]uehanua. Church; -IS, Ec('e Homo; li'J, St. Jerome; 2, 
Venice; 21, George ^Vashington, copy from Stuait, by Elhv:orth; 58, Feast at 
Levi's House, after Paul Veronese; 134, Landscape, Lanman ; 120, St. Josepli and 
Jesus, after Paphuel ; '6'2, Marie Antoinette. 

South Wall. 92, Hartford Puritans in tlie Wilderness, Church; Burning Ship 
at Sea, Jewett; 4, Battle (.If'tli century); Sam.son in Bonds ; 1, * Death of Warren 
at Bunkci' Hill, Trumbull (tlie celebrated historical pic^tures by this artist have 
explanatory charts ap]iended); 5, Mrs. Sigourney, Trumbull; C2, Humboldt; 
121, Wellington ; 80, Oliver Wolcott, Stuart; 2, Battle of Trenton, Trumbull; 87, 
W. EUcry Chaiunng ; 113, Brutus ; 91, Christ in the Tem])le, Terry ; 49, Sea View 
in Fog ; 50, Niglit-scene at Naples (the last two are bright "restored" jnctures, 
said to be liy Vernet) ; 10, Battle of Princeton. Tru'inhull ; 11, * Death of Mont- 
gomery at Quebec, Trumbull ; 30, Elevation of the Cr)ss, after Rubens; 12, Holy 
Family, Truutbull; SG, Joel Hawes, D. D. ; 90, Horace Bushnell, D. D. 

East Wall. Destruction of Jerusalem, a large picture, 22 x 14 ft., in poor light, 
but full of study (plans on the tables near), by Whichelo ; 27, Ruth and Boaz ; 95, 
Landscape, Isham; 13, Death of Jane McCrea, Vanderlyn. 

North Wall. 128, John in the Wilderness, Cole; 127, White Mountains, Cole; 
123, Marine View, Come; 129, Cascade in the Catskills, Cole; 124, The Lady of 
the Lake, TrumhaU; 130, Lake Winnepesaukee, Cole; 131, View on Taleott Mt., 
Cole; 34, * View of Mt. Etna, at sunrise, from Taorniina, Cole; 15, Americus Ves- 
puccius; 16, Columbus; * Benjamin West, <S'i;- Thomas Lawrence; 39, Declaration 
of Independence (small arti.st's coi)y), Trumbull; 89, Landscaije near New Haven ; 
106, Milton's Descent of Satan; jjortraits of various celebrities of the State of 
Conn. 

In the N. wing of the Athenseum is the Young Men's Institute, v/ith a circulat- 
ing lil)rary of 25,000 volumes, and a reading-room (an introduction by a member 
of the Institute entitles one to four weeks' use). 

The Coiui. Historical Society has its rooms in the S. Wing (open daily ; 
no lees). Besides a large library, many curiosities are kept here, among which 
are, King Philip's club ; Putnam's battle-sword ; bows, an-ows, pikes, swords, 
&c., of six wars ; old Gennan missals ; dress-suits at French Court of Commissary 
Wadsworth and Commodore McDonough ; * Turkish scimeter with coral and 
ivory hilt and silver scabbard, and inscrijitions in Arabic and Persian ; gold pen 
"worn out in the service of Washington Irving" ; a link (3 ft. long) of the chain 
stretched across the Hudson in 1770; a font-stove of 1740; Elder Brewster's 
chest ; Standish's dinner-jiot ; Putnam's tavern-sign ; British shells thrown into 
Stonington ; a mortar captured in Mexico ; relics of Nathan Hale and Col. Led- 
yard ; Bobbins Bible (1478) ; Farniington church drum ; mail-bag (A. D. 1775) 
used between Hart.ord and New Haven, 6 x9 niches ; the lir.st telegraphic mes- 
sage sent in America (from Washington to Baltimore), " What wonders hath God 
wrought" ; 13 Russian medals ; Contir.ental money ; a jjistol from Colt ; Confed- 
erate money ; a number of the " Boston News Letter" for April 17, 1704 (the lirst 
number of the first newspaper in America : it lasted 72 years) ; numerous jior- 
traits, MSS., and pieces ot Charter Oak; Arnold's watch; the chair in which 
Lee signed the capitulation of Appomattox ; several battle-tlags well used ; the 
swords of Putnaiu ; of McDonough (victor in the battle of the fleets on Lake 
Champlaiii); of ('apt. Ward, of tliC U. S. Navy (burn Hartford, 1806, killed in the 
attack on Matthias Point, V§., June 27, 1861) ; of Coiiniiander Rogers (killed hi 
the naval assault on Fort Sumter) , of Col. Russell (of the 10th Conn., killed at 
Roanoke, 1862) ; of Gen. Sedgwi(d< (killed at Si>ottsylvania, May 9, 1S()4) ; and of 
Gen. Nathaniel Lyon (commander of the U. S. Army in Missouri, killed at tlie 
battle of Wilson's Creek, Aug. 10, 1801). Adjoining this room is the hall contain- 
ing a large reference library, endowed with .';^ 1U0,(:00 by David Watkiuson, who 
died in 1857. It now contains 26,000 volumes. 

The ]irincipal manufactories of Hartford are the Colt Rifle and Pistol Factory, 
which has .'^1,0:)0,000 capital, and employs 800 hands. Since Col. Colt's death it 
li.is been run by a company, of which Gen. Franklin is President. Its immense 
buildings are in the S. E. part of the city, near the river, Irom whose inundations 
they .lie; guarded by a dike (50 ft. broad at the top, ami 8,7**0 ft. long), which cost 
t";S(i,0li0. " The Church of the Good Shepherd is nearby. The Sharps' liille M.m- 
ufutory (now at Bridgeport) was here for many years, making arms for the 
Uiiited States, Great Britain, Germany, China, Japan, Mexico, Peru, and Chili. 



HARTFORD. Route 21. 139 

Among tlip otiier companies now in operation are the Kellop^i: & Bulkelev Litlio- 
Kraphuiy Co., the Pratt & Whitney Macliine Co., the Warihbiiru Car-Wh"oel fac- 
tory, the Weed Kewmy-Machine Co., rheuix Inni Foundry, l'liiiii.t(;n EnveL.i.e 
Co.. Batterson's marble-works, etc. Hartlbrd i.s also an 'imiioi'taut market 1 u- 
■wool and tobacco. 

The great snbscription-book pnblishini;-houses of Ilartfoi-d print many ti'ou- 
sands ot books yearly. The chief of tlit-se are the Amcriean i'ubiishin-' Co. 

T!ie city has 17 banks, 9 Masonic lodges, 3 lodges of Odd Fellows, .3 of 
f^uiights of Pythias, 1 Grand -Army Post, 9] temperance societies, and 7 
Qlits military companies, one of which, the Putnam Phalanx, is widely 
famed. Its members dress in antique uniforms, and tlie corps (12.5 men) 
is said to represent .^11,000,000. Tlie city has more wealth in propor- 
tion to its population than any other American city, and its society is of 
a high and cultivated order. 

By following Main St. to the S. beyond St. Peter's Church, Armsmear 
is soon readied (on the 1.). This is the residence of the Colt family, with 
spacious grounds adorned with groves, lakes, marble statuary, green- 
houses, and a deer-pai'k. Near the mansion is a beautiful *copy (in 
brojize) of tlie Amazon and Tiger, at the Museum v.\ Eerlin. About 3 M. 
Ivyoud is ancient Wethersfield, settled by men of Watertown, Mass., in 
IGjj. At 1336, the first Conn, legislature convened here declared war 
against the Pequots. The old Webb mansion, near the Cong. Church, 
was Washington's head-ciuarters, and here frequeiit and protracted councils 
of the French and American officers prepared the plans which ended at 
York town. The towi has long been noted for its great crops of onions. 
Since 1826, the State Prison has been established here. 

About 3 M. S. W. of the city is Cedar Hill Cemetery, on a bare and 
lofty hill commanding views of the Queen City and the valley of the 
Conn. The * Beach Memorial is a beautiful work of Italian art. A high 
base, surrounded by elegant bas-reliefs, supports a vase, which is shelter"(xL 
by a tabernacle in red, yellow, and white marbles, supported by colmnns 
of Scotch granite. The Clark Monument is surmounted by a colossal 
bronze Angel of the Resurrection (cast in Munich). Tlie Russell J\Ionu- 
ment is crowned by a life-size and life-like seated statue. The monimient 
to Col. Samuel Colt (who invented the revolving pistol) consists of a lofty 
EgjTptian colunm of Scotch granite, surmounted by a bronze angel, wldle 
on the pedestal is the family coat-of-arms (a colt rampant, witlwa broken 
spear in his mouth). 

The new * State Capitol stands on the hill S. of the W. division of 
Bnslmell Park, and is visible from the railroad station and from the track 
on the S. It occupies tlie foinier site of Trinity College, which was pur- 
chased by the city in lb72 (subject to 5 years' occupation), for .^ 600,000, 
and presented to the State. The building was designed by Ui)jolin, and 

cost about §2,r.UO,000. It is of white 



139 a. Route 9A. HARTFORD. 

marl)le, in secular Gotliic architecture, 300 ft. long, with its fronts broken 
by frequent angles, columns, arches, galleries, and abundant commemora- 
tive sculpture. Resting on the brow of the hill it commands a superb 
view, and again in turn is thus visible from almost all points of the city. 
The Hnll of Representatives is in the centre of the S. front, and is lighted 
on three sides. The arcades are upheld by polished granite columns ; and 
the tympuni are filled -with sculy»tures whose subjects were chosen from 
the history of Conn. The dome is 250 ft. high, curving from a dodecago- 
nal base at whose angles are statues representing the 12 original States, 
with a statue of Connectic^it, holding her Charter, on the top. 

Trinity College was founded in 1824 as Washington College, and re- 
ceived its present name in 1845. Its new site is on Rocky Hill, about 1^ 
M. from the Hartford stalion, by avenues leading through a delightful 
part of the city ; and commands a superb view over the Connecticut and 
Perk-River Valleys, with many handets on the peaceful plains and liold 
mountain-ranges beyond. The buildings (now being slowly erected) are 
of brownstone, in early French Gothic architecture, designed by William 
Burges of London. They are to form three great quadrangles, harmonious 
in design, and will be the best edifices in America for educational pur- 
poses. The length of the front is 1,300 ft., the lengthwise buildings being 
used as doi'mitories and lecture-rooms, the N. transverse block the Thea- 
tre and Observatory, the S. lilock the professors' residences, and the trans- 
verse blocks N. and S. of the " Great Quad" the Library and Museum, 
Chapel and Dining-Hall. The grounds cover 80 acres, and are being laid 
out by F. Law Olmsted, with the statue of Bishop Brownell on the broad 
terrace in front of the buildings. Trinity has about 100 students. Its 
old Seabury, Brownell, and Jarvis Halls are being demolished to give 
place to the new Capitol. 

The Asylum-Hill Cong. Church has a spire 225 ft. high. St. Patrick's 
Cathedral has been rebuilt, and is on Church St., the Bishop's residence 
and convent being on Farmington Ave. Cheney Bros., the silk manufac- 
turers, have a new and imposing brownstone building on Main St. 



HARTFOr.D TO SPRINGFIELD. Route 21. 130 h. 

Talcott Mt. is about M. W. The estate. "Monte Video " o" tlie old faniilv 
oc vvado-.voi-t., IS on its suiniait, and the pretty Gothic villa is near a "deep, col.i 
'■ii...allme la:e. on the brow of the nit. From a neiohboriiii; tower "you have 
Xxtf^'^'"^^ view ot the surrounding country, and iirfco the adjoining States of 
luxss. and iN. l. ; the wliole surrounded by an inipuriiled outline of nits TJie 
Loim. IS seen sweeping onward like a king, through its fair domain, amid the 
spires of numerous towns and villages, while, by tlie aid of a glass, the sails of 
tlie vessels m the pert of Hartford, and the movements in the" streets, are dis- 
tmctly visiule." (Mrs. «inouRNEY.) "The peculiarities of the beautiful and 
grand scenery of Jlonte Video make it quite witliout a parallel iu America, and 
probably with few in the world." (Prof. Silliman.) 

Rockiillill (7 M. S.) presents a remarkable .juiKition of trap-rock and sandstone 
^roni this point is enjoyed a rich view over the river A'allev, embracing Wethers- 
held and Its intervales, Glastenburyand the LymeMts., N. Hartford, and 40 M lo 
tne ^., the Mts. of Tom and Holyoke. The ride to Rocky Hill, by the river-road 
IS a tavu-ite one witli the Hartford citizens. 

Oilier excursions are to Tumble-Down Brook (8 M. W.), to E. and W Hartford 
to Glastenbury, and over Newington Mt. S. Winihor {'oU. lN!.)was a depot for 
luisoners during the Revolution, and its numerous lines o elms were planted by 
Jiritish and Hessian captives, under the direction of Lafayette. Here was borii 
Jotui Fitch, inventor and builder of the first steamboat in America He ran a 
steamer-hne on the Delaware River from 17S(i to l7i>0, the boat making 8 M an 
Jiour. Fulton's steamers, the " Clermont " and the " Car of Neptune,"\vere'put 
on the Hudson m 1S07. 50 years ago more gin was made in E. Windsor than iu 
any other town m America. 

Hartford to Springfield. 

Springfield Division of the N. Y. & N. E R. R. The running time between 
Hartford and Springfield is about \;, hrs. The distance is 81 M. 

The line cro-^ses the Connecticut Kiver on the bridge of the New York 
and New Eiighind Railro il, and .soon reaches E. Hniiford, a pros- 
perous rural village near the Hockaiium River. Its long and elm-lined 
street is famous for antique dignity and beaut3\ Several factories are 
located in tliis vicinity. The train runs N., near the broad and fertile in- 
tervales of the Connecticut, prolitic in rye and grain, where the ferocious 
Fodunk Indians anciently dwelt. The line soon diverges from the river, 
and crosses long and level plains, with but little of interest visible. Af- 
ter crossing the Fodunk River, the hills of Vernon and Ellington appear 
on the r., and the hamlet of ,S^. Windsor is soon readied. 

Station, East- Windsor Hill, where the Conn. Theological Institution 
Avas long located. Near this place is the Scantic River. Beyond Osborn 
station is Broad Brook, the seat of the Broad-Brook Manufacturing Co., 
wliich producss cassimeres and other Avoollen goods. A short distance 
W. is Warehouse Point, opposite Windsor Locks and near the great 
hrilge of the N. Y., N. H. & H. R. R. This locality formerly possessed 
the largest gin-distilleries in the United States. The riverward inter- 
vales nov-r produce valuable crops of tobacco. The train now enters En- 
field, wliich belonged to Massachusetts until 1752, and w\as settled in 
1081 by immigrants from Salem in that Province. Beyond Melrose tlie 



140 RcniUn. MEPJDEN. 

line veaclips K-izardrMU, which is famous for its great gmipowdor-works. 
Here tlie Scantic River is crossed, and the next stop is at Shaker Station, 
Avhere tlie Shakers have built a handsome station building. Two families 
of Shakers maintain large and admirably kept farms just to the E., still 
cherishing their weird, theological ideas, living in celibacy, and showhig 
the most systematic and profitable agriculture in New England. 

The line now crosses the Massachusetts line, and reaches E. Lnng- 
mendov), near valuaV)le quarries of freestone. Soon afterwards it passes 
the Water-Shops and the Armory, and enters Springfield on the rails of 
t le Springfield, Athol k Northeastern R. R. 

Hartford to New Haven. 

After leaving Hartford, the line runs S., leaving the river, past Newing- 
ton to Berlin, whence branch tracks diverge to Middletown, 10 M. on the 
S. E., and New Britain, 2h M. on the N. (see Route 11). Berlin village 
(S. E. of the station) was for scores of years the home of the peripatetic 
tin-pedlers who traversed the country Ix'tween Slobile and Quebec. The 
manufacture of tin-ware originated here about 1775, and is still carried 
on The heroic Major Hart was born here, who, at Gen. St. Clair's defeat 
on the Miami River (1791), led a battalion of the 2.1 U. S. Infantry (the 
rear-guard) on a fearful charge, in whidi he and nine tenths of his men 
were'' killed. At E. Berlin are the works of the American Corrugated 
Iron Co. Percival, the poet, was born here in 1795. 

Station, Meriden (Meriden House), a busy little city midway between 
Hartford and New Haven. Near the Town Hall (E. of the track) are sev- 
eral churches, and some neat villas cro^vn the heights beyond. The 
spacious and imposing building of the State Reform School is passed by 
the train just before reaching the station. The highway to the N. passes 
Ut. Lamentation, and then runs through a narrow pass in the Blue Mts. 
called the Cat Hole, 1 M. long. Ice is found near this deep glen through- 
out the year. West Peak, 3 M. from the city, commands a view extend- 
ing from Hartford to New Haven, and over Long Island Sound. 

The Meriden Britannia Co. has 6 large buildings, one of which is .527x40 ft 
1,000 hands are employed, 420 tons of nickel white metal and «{ ^^ ^^e used 
yearly, and $2,500,000 worth of wares are sent out every year to all paits ot the 
wnrlfl f'has Parker makes 4,000 tons of tin-ware annnallv ; the Men.len Cnt- 
SJ Co (the firsUn America) employs 400 hands. The Parker Shot Gun Co., the 
MiHeable Iron ci , the Meriden Fliut Glass Co., the Wilcox Organ Co. arc located 
here Here a^soa^e made the Uall railway .iguals and the Bradley & Hubbard 

'^of the great land route from Boston to New Haven Belcher b"ilta fortified 
tavern here in 16(50. Levi S. Ives, Epi.eopal Bishop ot North Carohna (1831-52 , 
who was received into the Roman Catholic Church at the city of Rome in 18o2, 
was a native of Meriden. 



BOSTON TO ALBANY, &c. RuliU22. 14-1 

After Yalesrille conios "Walliagford {Ingraliam House). Davenport 
preached a sermon at the founding- of this town (in 1G69) from the 
text, '• My bc-loved hath a vineyard hi a very fruitful hill." On that 
fruitful hill the village is built, with a neat town hall, a costly Episcopal 
churcli, and a fine modern school-house, besides several neat villas. 
Manuiactures of German-silver ware, Albata plate, &c., are carried oa on 
ilie plain. The Hanging Hills form a lofty and picturesque scene to the 
W. of the village. W. of the station (f M.) is a branch of the Oneida 
Comnamity, containing about 50 persons, on an estate of 2-300 acres. 
They believe in the power of the New Testament doctrines to render men 
morally perfect, and all their property is held in common. The object of 
this mission colony (which receives a^ibsidies from. Oneida) is to projiagate 
the Oneida tenets in New England. 

The line follows the Quinnipiac Valley to N. Haven. There is here a 
Gothic church (Episcopal) facing the Green, near which is the house where 
Dr. Truml)ull the historian lived for 50 years, and wrote 4,000 sermons 
and several books. North Haven makes several million bricks yearly, 
Tlie train soon passes East Rock (on the r. ), crosses Mill lliver, and enters 
New Haven. 

New Haven to New York, see Route 8. 

22. Boston to Albany, Saratoga, and the West. 

Via tlie Boston and Albany Raih-oad, Rensselaer and Saratoga R. R., and New 
York Central R. R. Boston to Albany, 202 M. Fare, §4.60. Boston to Saratoga, 
2-iO M. 

This is the favorite route running W. from Boston, and will long hold this posi- 
tion, since the prnicipal inland cities of Massachusetts are on its line. Wiien its 
constrLK'tion was first talked of, the " Boston Courier " derided the scheme, saybig 
that it eould 1)e built only at an " expense little less tlian the market value of the 
whole territory of Massachusetts, and which, if practicable, every ])erson of com- 
mon-sense Icnows would be as useless as a railroad fi'om Boston to the moon." 
Yet the work went on, the road was completed to Worcester in lSo5, to Spring- 
field in 1839, and to Albany in 1842. Tiic. admirable appointments and organiza- 
tion of this route, and its immunity from accidents, have given it a wide reputa- 
tion and an extensive patronge. 

The station in Boston is on the corner of Kneeland and South Sts. 

After emerging from the city, the line crosses the Pro\-idence Railroad 
(Route 8) on the Back Bay lands, and passes the junction of the Woon- 
socket Railroad (2 M. out). A fine panoramic view is gained by a back- 
ward glance from the wiridow\s on the r. of the car, embracing the ancient 
academic city of Cambridge, with the heights of Somerviile and Cluuies- 
town, while much of Boston is visible to tlie rear. 

For the itinerary between Boston and Springfield, see Route 21. 

The line crosses the Connecticut River on a long bridge just alter leav- 
ing Springfield, and follows the valley of the Agawam River past W. 



142 Route 23. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

Spriiigfield Station (a maiiufactiiriiig village; Agawam Hotel) to West- 
field (Wilhiiarth House, Westtield House). The Indian domain of Woro- 
noco was settled by the English in 1660, and called Streamfield, from 
the abundance of its waters, but later, the Legislature named it Westfield, 
as the most westerly of the settlements. Late in King Philip's War, the 
colonial council ordered that this, and all the other valley towns, should 
be evacuated, and that their inhabitants shoiild concentrate at Springfield 
and Hadley. An angry refusal was returned, and the towns negotiated 
for union with Conn, until the obnoxious edict was repealed. Westfield 
built a fort and stood her groimd. At present it is a biisy village, where 
32 firms make 2,500,000 whips a year, and 8-12,000,000 cigars are an- 
nually made. IhQ State Normal School located here has 160-200 stu- 
dents, and is of high reputation. Several chiirches front on the Green, 
which is adorned by a monument by which " Westfield honors the 
memory of her sons who have fallen in defence of Liberty, Union, and 
Independence, 1S61 to 1865." The pedestal bears the arms of the State 
and of the Union, and a list of the slain, and is surmounted by a bi'onze 
soldier, of heroic size. The village is situated in a beautiful valley by the 
Westfield River, ^ M. S. of the station. The New Haven and Nortli- 
ampton Railroad crosses the line at this point. 

The line noAv runs up the valley of the Westfield River, passing 
Pochassic Hill and Mt. Tekoa on the r., and stops at Russell (Riissell 
House), in a mountainous toAvn. Station, Huntington and Chester, after 
which the line passes into Berkshire County (see Route 23). Beyond the 
borders of Berkshire and of Massaclnasetts the line enters New York State, 
and connects at Chatham with the Hudson and Boston R. R. and the 
Harlem R. R. From Chatham, it runs N. W., through Kinderhook and 
Schodack, to Greenbush, and thence crossing the Hudson on a noble bridge, 
enters the city of Albany. 

Connections are here made with tlie New York Central R. R. for the "West, and 
with other routes for New York, Saratoga Springs, &c. Also with the Hudson 
River boats. From Albany to Utica, 95 M. ; to Rome, 109 M. : to Syracuse, 147 
M. ; to Rochester, 25<J M. ; to Buffalo, 297 M. ; to Niagara Falls, 305 M. ; tu De- 
troit, 5o(! M. ; to Chicago, 820 M. These distances are calculated on the N. Y. 
Central R. R., and the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern 11. R. (via Toledo and 
Clevekand), v/hich it meets at Buffalo. By tlie same route and the shortest lines 
beyond, the whole distance from Boston to Niagara Falls is 507 M. ; to Chicago, 
1,022 M. ; to St. Louis, 1,302 M. ; to Omaha, 1,515 M. ; to San Francisco, 3,429 M. 

23. The Berkshire Hills. 

This district will be considered in connection with its railway system, whose 
various lines will be treated of indeiiendently of tlicir connections beyond the 
county limits. 

The Berkshire Hills form a beautiful and jiicture.sque district of mountains and 
lakes, abounding in charms for tlie l()\cr of nature. Thousands of city people 
flock hither every summer, and rest and rela.\ amid scenes so peaceful and alirae- 
tive. The best time for a visit here is in October, "when the holiday h'U-^ lift 



THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. Route 23. 143 

their WTeathed and crowned heads in the resplendent days of autumn." Says 
Beci'lier of this season in Berkshire, "Have the evening clouds, suttused with 
sunset, dropjied down and bet'orae fixed into solid forms? Have the i-ainbows 
that followed autumn storms faded upon the mts., and left their mantles there ? 
What a mighty chorus of cohjrs do the trees roll down the valleys, up the hill- 
sides, and over the mts. 

"From Salisbury to Wiiliamstown and then to Bennington in Vermont, there 
streti'hes a county of valleys, lakes, and mts., that is yet to be as celebrated as 
tiie lake-(listri(:t of England, or the liill-country of Palestine." 

Another writer says : " Berkshire is a region of hill and valley, nit. and lake, 
beautiful rivers and laughing brooks. — the very Piedmont of America." Godfrey 
Greylock naively writes"!^ " Somebody has failed Berkshire the Piedmont of Amer- 
ica. I do not know how just the ap])ellation may be, but I do know that U 
Piedmont can rightly be called the Berkshire of Europe, it must be a very de- 
lightful region." 

The route i'rom Boston to Central Berkshire is by the Boston and Albany R. R. 
Distance to Pittsfield, 151 M. ; fare, 8 3.40. 

The route from New York to Berkshire is by the Housatonic R. R. Distance 
to Pittsfield 16G M. Pittsfield is 53 M. from Springfield and 51 M. from Albany. 

"That section of the Western R. R. which traverses the wild liills of 
Berksliire is a v.'^ork of immense labor, and a v/onderful achievement of 
art. After leaving the wide meadows of the Conn., basking in their rich 
inheritance of alluvial soil and unimpeded sunshine, you wind through 
the narrow valleys of the Westfield River, with masses of mts. before 
yon, and woodland heights crowding in upon you, so that at every puff 
of the engine the passage visibly contracts. Tlie Alpine character of the 
river strikes you. At Chester you begin your ascent of 80 ft. in a mile 
for 13 M. The stream between you and the precipitous hillside, cramped 
into its rocky bed, is the Pontoosnc, Avhich leaps down precipices, runs 
forth laughing in the dimpling sunshine, and then, shy as a mountain 
uymph, it dodges behind a knotty copse of evergreen. In approaching 
the summit-level yoti travel bridges built a hundred feet above other 
mountain streams, tearing along tlieir deep- worn beds ; and at the ' deep 
cut ' your passage is hewn through solid rocks, whose mighty walls frown 
over you." 

" We have entered Berkshire by a road far superior to the Appian Way. 
On every side are rich valleys and smiling hillsides, and deep set in their 
hollows lovely la]<es sparkle like gems." (Miss Sedgwick.) 

Staa:es run daily from Westfield to Granville {drnnvUJe House), 9 M. S. W. ; 
Tollaiu/, a hij^h placed liHnilet: and Mont(join<'r//, a rugged mountain-village, 7 .^T. 
N. W. Also from Russell 4^ M. W. to Bland ford (Mountain House) and 8 M. to 
N. Blavdford, in an ancient Scotch-Irish dairy-town. From Huntington .station 
(I'arks Hou-e), stages run thrice weekly N. to S- Worfliiuf/ton (9 M.) and Worth- 
ingtnn (Waverly House; 14.\ M.) From Chester (Ch'Ster House), stances thrice 
weekly to Jh'cktt ( 'cvtr,^, 5 M"., and Oti.s {Day's Hutd), \U "Si. From Middlefield 
daily 4 M. N. to Middleiicld. 

From Tekoa Mt. to Washington Summit the track rises 1.211 ft. Eecket 
(Cldjiin [louse) has several lakes, from one of which Hows Fannington River. 
10 M. S. of Becket Station is Otis, with the island-studded Great Lake. 
Station, Washin(/ton, among the hills which the Indians called Tukonick. 
The village is S. of the station in a pretty valley. Station, Hinsdale, in a 



144 Routers. TEE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

large town (so named in lionor of its first pastor) Avliich is "more pleasing 

to tlie lover of fine mountain scenery, exhilarating breezes, and crystal 

fountains, than to the farmer in quest of fortune." Tlie mts. here recede 

from the line of the track, and the tall hills of Peru are seen on the E. 

(i\ ). Station, Dalton (Eagle Hotel), originally named Dale-town, Avhich 

has large paper-factories. From Dalton a highway leads to Windsor 

(Cleveland House) 7 M. N. E., the Indian " Ouschaukamaug," a loftily 

situated village in a town rich in Saxony and IMerino sheep, and "noted 

for the longevity of its inhabitants." About 3 M. from Dalton, on the 

Windsor road, are the Wahconah Falls, where a mt. stream falls in 3 leaps 

over an SO-ft. cliff of gray marble, 5 M. beyond Dalton the train passes 

Silver Lake, and stops at the costly and handsome station in Pittsfield. 

Hotels. American House, on North St., 120 guests, at $10-15 a week; Bur- 
baiik Ii(_u.^e, oppo.-^ite the station, $9- 12 a week. Spring.side,tbr summer-boarders, 
$ lu - 14 a week. Good restaurant in the station. 

rittslitkl is a beautiful town of 15,000 inhabitants, and is the centre and 
capital of Berkshire County. It was settled about the middle of the last 
century (1752) on the Indian domain of Pontoosuc, and in 1761 it re- 
ceived its present name, in honor of William Pitt, the English statesman 
and friend of America. 

In 1844 the Berkshire Jubilee was hold here, calling in thousands of the sons of 
the comity from all parts of the Union ; and on Sept. 24, 1872, the lai-gesl multi- 
tude ever seen in Berkshire gathered here at the dedication of tlie Soldiers' 
P.Jonumeiit. At sunrise the chureh-Lells rang, and 37 guns were fired, and tlie 
proces-'iou induded 8 hands of music, detaclnnents from 9 veteran regiments, the 
2d Muss. Mihtia reg., and 2 Conmianderies of Knights Templar. G. W. Curtis 
was tlie orator of the day. "The soldiers' monuments of the late war, hai>iiily 
arising in every town and in every village, with the beautiful rites of Decoration 
Day, hallowing the memory of heroes, are like tlie spring of liberty, flowing 
CA'erj'where in the land." The monument consists of a massive pedestal on which 
is a bronze statue of a lithe young soldier in fatigue uniform, .standing at rest, 
with his left hand holding a flag-staff, and the I'ight hand liigh up in the folds of 
the flog. This " Color-Bearer " was designed by Launt Thompson, and cast from 
the metal of 5 cannon given hy Congress for the imrp/ose. The })edestal contains 
the names of 5 officers and 90 'men who died in the field, out of 1,250 who enlisted 
at Pittsfield. 

" A voice from lips whereon the coal from Freedom's shrine hnth been. 
Thrilled, as Init yesterday, the hearts of Berkshire's Mountain men ; 
The echoes of that solemn voice are sadly lint'cring still 
In all our sunny valleys, on every wind-swept hill. 

And sandy Barnstable rose up, wet with the salt sea sprav ; 

And Bristol sent her answcrin'j shout down Narragar.sett Bay ; 

Alonf,' the broad Connccticnt old Ilnmpden felt the thrill. 

And the cheer of Hampshire s woodmen swept down from Ilolyoke Hill. 

No ularr-hiint in oiir hnrdrrs — no pirate on our sfrati/l ! 
No fetters in. the Hai/ Slate — no slave upon our land ! " 

■WniTTIER. 

The monument stands in the Park, a green in the midst of the city, 
which is called the heart of Berkshire. 

Here, in the centre of an elliptical line of trees, stood the Old Elm, 
■with its 90 ft. of smooth shaft, and concentric rings representing 34:0 years 
of gro"wiih. After being twice thunder-smitten, the Old Elm became un- 



THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. Route £3. 145 

safe, ani v:as taken down in 1S64-, amid the mourning of tlie county. On 
one side of the Park is the Congregational Church (of stone), where Dr. 
John Todd (a powerful and proiilic writer) preached, 1842-70. Next to 
it is St. Stephen's Episcopal Church. At the end of the Park is the 
elegant wliite marble * Court House, which, together with the Jail (iii 
another street), cost $ 400,000. Near the Court House, and fronting the 
Park, is the building of the Berkshire Athenaeum, contahiing a fine li'Draiy 
and collections of local curiosities. On tlte corner of North and \Vest Sts., 
near the Park, is the noble building of the Berkshire Life Insurance Co. 
On the main street are some fine busi;iess buildings, and beyond tlie 
American House is the small but handsome Cathedral of St. 

Joseph. The French residents have, also, a Catholic Church for their 
hundred families, and thei'e is also a German Lutheran Cliurch. Beyond 
St. Josepii's is the MapleAvood Institute (for young ladies), " whose grace- 
ful chapel, gymnasium, and half ivy-covered dwellings gieam white 
tlirough groves and avenues of famed attractiveness." During the vacation, 
this building is used as a summer boarding-house ($10-15 a week). On 
East St. is the noble oKl Ajipleton mansion, once the liome of Longfellow's 
wife, and ihe place of "The Old Clock on the Stairs." Longfellow spent 
many summers here. At I'ittslield Lord Coleridge said: ''England has 
nothing more pleasingly picturesque than Berkshire." The Baptists have 
a handsome church ou Ni-rlh St.; and the Methodist Church is attractive. 
There are many beautiful villas on Wendell Avenue, Jubilee Hill, &c. 
The town is situated on a plateau 1,000-1,200 ft. above the sea, and 
surrounded by lofty hills, the Taconics on the ^V''. and the Hoosacs on the 
E. Beautiful villas abound in the subiu-'oan streets, and extensive manu- 
factures of cotton and woollen cloths, knit goods, and boots, furnish employ- 
ment for the foreign population. The town is supplied with water f;-om 
Lake Ashley, a little romantic locli which lies upon the summit of Wash- 
ington Mt. (1,800 ft. high), 7 M. to the S. E. Pittstield has large manu- 
factures, beautiful alluvial environs, 9 churches, 3 papers, and 4 banks. 

Lake Onota (083 acres) is about 2 M. W. of Pittstield. From the hill 
where Ashley's Fort stood, a fine view is enjoyed, but the best prospect is 
from a long point running from the N. shore, to which locality belongs the 
legend of '• The White Deer of Onota." 

Pontoosuc Lake, "the haunt of the winter deer" (575 acres), is 2^ M. 
N. of Pittstield, on the road to Williamstown (22 M.). 

Berry Pond is to the N. W. in Hancock. "Berry Pond does not derive its 
name from tlie str.iwberries, blackberries, and raspberries, which by their abun- 
dance ia the vichiity would JTistify the appellation, but from an obscure, stoat- 
hearted man who once dwelt upon its border, and wrunjc subsistence for a fan:e 
family of girls out of the unrein of its rocky cliafice. Nothing can exceed the 
beauty of this pond. Its margin is sometimes a beach of silvery sand, strewn 
with blocks of snov.'y quartz and delicate, fibrous mica ; again grassy and green to 
the water's edge; and yet 9gaiu fringed \s-itli long eyelashes of birch and hazel- 
trees, that dreamilv gaze at their re.lection in the mirror." (Taconic.) 

South Mountain is S. of Pittstield. From its S. summit Greyloek 

7 



14:6 Route 23. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

is seen in tlie N., Mount Oceola and Perry's Peak in the W., the Lenox Mt. in the 
S., and the Mts. of Washington in the E. The city is close at liand in the N. with 
Lake Onota at its side. Nearer is Melville Lake, or Lilly Bowl, near Lilly 
Ope, so named from an old Meg Merrilies of a hermitess named Lilly, who once 
lived in the valley. 

In the mts. N. W. of Pittslield, and distant several miles, are some romantic 
points. Below Mt. Honv/ee is the Promised Land, a name given with grim Kew 
England humor to a tract of kind for Avhich grants were long promised f^nd 
longer delayed. On its W. summit is a i)retty lakelet whence Lulu Ope (or valley) 
may be descended to Lula Cascade, " a foam-white colunm which finds its base in a 
circular pool of black and glossy surface, overhung by a gray old boulder, and l)y 
masses of tangled foliage." S. of the Promised Land is the Ope of Promise, the 
nearest (though arduous) path to Berry Pond. Then comes Arbutus Hill .'ind 
Ope, which are covered with arbutus in May, and beyond them is Old Tower llill. 

S. of the Lebanon road (which nins through Lilly Ope) is Doll Mt., where the 
Shakers formerly worshipped, and which they called Mt. Zion. Silver Lake is in 
the E. environs, and Sylvan I^ake is 2-3 M.E. of the city. The larger lakes here- 
abouts are ])rolific in pickerel, but the trout have been nearly exterminated. 

O. Wendell Holmes long resided at a villa 2 M. from the city, on a small farm 
remaining from 24,000 acres purchased by his grandfather in 1735. Near him 
lived Herman Melville, the rover, and author of sea-novels. " AVliite Jacket," 
"Moljy Dick," and other works were written here, where he resided 1850 -CO. 

Daily stages run from l'irt.<field N. W 10 M to Hnncocl', a lonelv Bapti-^t vi.iasre 
among the mountain.'' : also, N. 2k M. to Prnifon.vue. at the foot of Pontoosuc b:ike; 
G M. to LnrtesJioro (Lanesboro House); 13 M. to A^c?r Ashford, under Snddlcback 
Mt. ; 17 M. to .S'. WiUiainstoicn (Sabin Hou.-e), under (ireylock ; and 22 M to 
Wi'.liamstown (see page 156). Stages from Hinsdale to Windsor, Peru, Cumuniigton. 

Near the station of Richmond are the remarknble geological phenomena of 
Richmond Valley, consisting of seven parallel lines of Ixnilders, stretching jscmss 
the valley from Perry's Peak to Lenox Mt. in a S. E. direction. Ihis feature wns 
carefully studied by Sir Charles LyeU (in two visits), and is majipedand described 
in his "Antiquity of Man." Peri-y's I'eak is famed for its superb over-view. 

To New Lebanon Springs is a favorite excursion from Pittslield. By 
the highway the distance is 12-15 M. ; the railroad route is circuitous, 
being by the Albany line to Chatham, and thence up the Harlem Ex- 
tension R. R. 

HoteL —Columbia Hall, a fashionable and elegant summer-house. 

The thermal springs at New Lebanon have won an excellent reputation 

for their efhcacy in diseases of the skin and liver. The flow of the waters 

is very large, and its temperature is about 73'. Tliere are many flue 

drives and walks in this vicinity, the favorite of which is to the Shaker 

Village, about 2 M. distant. 

The Shakers originated from a French sect which came to England in 1706, and 
Ann Lee, of Mancliester, the daughter of a blacksmith and the wife of a black- 
smith, joined them in 1758. In 1770, after emerging from a madhouse where she 
was confined for reviling matrimony, she announced, " I am Ann, the Word," and 
S(wn after came to America, and was made the "Siiiritual Head" of the sect. In 
1780 she produced a revival at New Lebanon, and converted many to Sliakei-ism, 
goon after which the sect established its head-quarters there, and in 1795 accepted 
the commonwealth covenant. She claimed the power of working miracles, and 
held that Cln'ist's coming was not the fulfilment of " the desire of all nations, but 
lliat the second Divine advent must naturally be n:anifested in that particular 
otiject, to wit, woman, which is eminently tiie desire of all nations." Motlier 
Ann made New Lebanon "the capital of the Shaker world, the rural Vatican 
wliicli claims a more despotic sway over the nn'nd of man than ever the Roman 
Pontiff a.ssumed." On her death a peculiar hierarchy assumed the government. 
The Fu'st Elder, the successor of Mother Ann, aj^poiuts the second elder, and tlie 



THE BERKSHIKE HILLS. Route 23. 147 

first and second eldress. Tliese four, calleil the " Holy Lead," remain secluded 
ill tlse chimih at Lebanon, ami apjioint subordinate clergy, in.-,'ludin<^ one elder ia 
each family. Their Scriptures are contained in the " Holy Laws " and Order 
B;)ok, which are claimed as works of inspiration, and as partly dictated by the 
Kecording Angel, althougn they may be ajnended or rescinded by the Holy Lead. 
Unlike other sects, the Shakers claim that men may join their church after death, 
and among other illustrious posthumou ; members, they count Washington, 
Lafayette, Napoleon, Tamerlane, and Poenliontas. " By frugality and industry 
they give us many useful tilings, but they do not produce what the Republic most 
needs, — men and women."* 

The sect has been declining sin^e the ileath of its great head and her disciples, 
because it has no ])ower^ of internal development. There are many Shalcer vil- 
lages in the N. Atlantic States, but the community at New Lebanon has dwindled 
to 2')- 30 members. 

3 5L S. W. of Pittsfield (by R R ) is a Shaker village, near Richmond Pond, 
and a little way to the N. of it is a mountain (in H in:o:.'k) where the devotees <jf 
tills faitli formerly held their weird meeting. Their tradition states that here ou 
Mt. Sinai, tlie Shalvcrs hunted Satan throughout a long summer night, and finally 
kUlod and buried him. Over his grave, to this d ly, Washington and Lafayette 
keep guard, mounted on white horses, and are seen on summer nights by the 
faithtiii who chance to pas.5 their ancient shrine. 

From Pittsfield the Honsatnnic R. R. runs tlirongh Southern Berksliire. 
''Of all tlie railroads near New York none can compare, for ])eanty of 
scenery, with the Honsatonic from Ne\vtown to Pittsfield, but especially 
from New Milfoixl to Lenox." (Beeciier.) Fredrika Bremer si)eaks of 
"the wonderfully picturesque and sonietiniss splendidly gloomy scenery " 
along the line of tliis railroad. By this route it is 8 M. to Lenox Station 
(passing South Mt. on the r. ), from which stages ascend to the village in 
2 M. By a fine carriage road it is G M. S. of Pittsfield. 

Hotels. Cnrtis's Hotel accommodates 140 guests at 8 4. 00 a day, with con- 
siderable reductions for a ii)ng stay. There are sevei-al k;rje summer ISoarding- 
liouses here (Mrs. Flint's, I. J. Newton's, iSrc), more rjuiet and inexpensive than the 
hotel, and some of them better situated. 

" L,eiiox, known for the singular purity and exhilarating effects of its air, and 
for the beauty of its mountain S'.'enery. If one spends July or October in Lenox, 
he will liaidly seek another home for the summer. The church stands upon the 
highest point in the village, and if, i:i summer, one stands in the door and gazes 
upon tlie vast panorama, he might, without half the Psalmist's devotion, prefer 
to stand in the door of the Lord's house to a dwelling in tent, tabernacle, or man- 
sion." So says Beecher, whose "Star Pai^ers " were written during his summer 
visits to Lenox, m a house which stood near the site now occupied by Gen. Rath- 
bone's mansion. 

Fredrika Bremer wrote, "The country around Lenox is romantically lovely, 
inspired with wood-covered hills and tlie prettiest little lakes." 

Tliis "gem among the mountains " (Sillbian) was settled in 1750, and 
received the family name of the Duke of Richmond. It is situated on a 
high hill, and contains the old Court House (which now has a library and 
reading-room) and numerous villas pertaining to gentlemen of Boston and 
New York. Fanny Kcmble (Butler) long resided here, and wished to be 
buried in the graveyard on the hill, saying, " I ^\dll not rise to trouble 
any one if they will let me sleep here. I will only ask to be permitted, 
once in a while, to raise my head and look out upon this glorious scene "; 

* Much of the forcfroin.T account has heen condensed from Dwijjhfs Travels. The editor 
does not know •whether the government remains uow in the same form. 



148 Routers. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

and Beecher adds, " IMay she behold one so much fairer that this scenic 
beauty shall f.de to a shadow." Lenox is 1,300 ft. high. It has AVaring's 
system of sewerage, and a water-suppl}' from mountain-springs. The 
churches are Cong., Meth., Epis., and Cath. There are 100 summer 
cottages here. The Lenox Club has a well-fitted club-house. 

Bald Head is 2-3 jNI. from the village. From this point is seen tlie rich 
Stockbridge Valle}^, the Bowl (Lake Mahkeenac), and the wide Housa- 
tonic valley on the S., with Laurel Lake and Rattlesnake Mt. on the S. E. 
On the N. and W. are Lenox and Oceola Mts., on the N. is South Mt., and 
on the E. are the tumultuous hills of Washington, "a view wide, rich, and 
joyous." 

The Stockbridge Boiol and Laurel Lake are S. W. and S. E. of Lenox, 
— each being 2| M. distant (see Stockbridge and Lee). A pretty view 
of Laurel Lake is gained from the lirst hill S. of the village, with Lenox 
Furnace near it on the 1. 

Perry's Peak is 6-7 M. distant, passing Lenox Mt. and Richmond 
Valley. This lone summit, which stands on the frontier of New York, is 
2,077 ft. high, and overlooks the Hudson, the Catskills, and the Green 
Mts. New Lebanon, "the Shaker capital, and Gretna Green of Mass.," 
is but 7 - 8 M. beyond the Peak. 

At Lenox Furnace, 2 M. S. E. of the village, on the R. R., are extensive glass- 
woi'ks, where, among other varieties, the best quality of plate-glass is made, frum 
pure granulated quartz. 

Other excursions are to the Ledge, the Pinnacle, and Richmond Hill. The sunset 
view froui Church Hill is of great beauty, embracing Grey lock on the N., and the 
Dome on the S. Echo Lake is a beautiful loch near W. Stockbridge Mt. 

Lee {Morgan House ; N'orton House) is 4| M. S. E. of Lenox by road, 
and 5 M. bv railroad and stage. 

Lee was settled in 1760, and was named for one of the Virginian Lees, 
who were so distinguished in the Continental Army. Paper-making was 
early commenced here, and now the business has assumed vast propor- 
tions. But the town is most widely known for its excellent white marble, 
of which $1,000,000 worth was used in building the U. S. Capitol at 
Washington. The (piarries are close to the village on the S., and lie be- 
tAveen tlie railroad and the river. They are now supplying marble for the 
New- York Cathedral and the Philadelphia City Hall. Lee has good 
churches and schools, a newspaper {The Valley Gleaner), and an efficient 
Village-Improvement Association. Fern Cliff is E. of the village, and 
gives noble views of the Housatonic and Hoosac Valleys, with Greylock 
and other stately peaks. 

Laurel Lake is a pretty sheet of water 1 M. N. of Lee, that should be 
visited in the late altcrr.oon to catch "the delicate evening lights that 
glance from its trancpiil surface." 

Daily stages, 5 M. S. E. fand from S. Lee station, 3 M.) to the ancient Shaker 
conimunirv of Tt/rlnt/hain, now extinct, and its buildings occupied by the sumiier- 
resort of Fernsiclc '{U)0 guests ; S 9-10 a week). It is in a Icvely secluded glen, 
1 600 ft. above the sea. and under the Shakers' Holy Hill. Stages also daily from 
Lee, 5 M to W. Decket ; and 10 M. to Otis {Daly's Hotel), where many summer- 
pilgrims rest. 



STOCKBRIDGE, Route 23. 149 

Stockbridga {Stoclchr'ulge House, 70 - 80 guests, S 2 50 a day, % 15 - 1 7.50 
a week), 6 M. from Lee by K. li., and 4 M. by the highway, is one of 
the fairest of what Gov. Andrew called ''the delicious surprises of Berk- 
shire." It is "tamed for its meadow-ehns, for the picturesque beauty 
adjacent, for the quiet beauty of a village which sleeps along a level plain 
just under the rim of the hills." (Bkkcher.) The hotel fronts on the 
main street; to its 1. is a marble fountain from Italy; and before it is the 
new memorial St. Paul's Episcopal Church, the gift of Mr. Cliarles E. 
Butler, in 1884, with its sweet and deep-toned bell. Near by stands a 
brown-stone shaft, inscribed " To her sons, beloved and honored, who 
died for their country in the great war of the Rebellion, Stockbridge, in 
grateful remembrance, has raised this monument." To the W. is the 
house (built 1737) where Edwards wrote "The Freedom of the Will." 

It is now a summer boarding-house, known as Edwards Hall. In and near the 
Green, h M. W. of the hotel, are the old Cong. Church ; the Jonathan-Edwards 
uioDument, of pohshed Scotch granite; the Bell-Tower, a picturesque stone cam- 
panile containing a chime of ten bells, given to the town by David Dudley Field; 
and the ancient Indiixn cemetery, with its rugged memorial monument. Aaron 
Burr once lived in a house still standing, towards the station. Opposite Edwards 
Hail is tlie venerable Sedgwick mansion, h M. N. of the charcli is a park of 12 
acres, given to the town by Cyrus VV. Field. Noble villas crown the adjaceut hills, 
and surround Stockbridge Bowl. 

On the main st., E. of the hotel, is the Jackson Library, a neat little 
stone building containing 8,000 volumes, a cabinet of minerals, certain 
relics of Edwards, and a marble tablet, on which are inscribed the names 
of 134 officers and men who went from Stockbridge to the Secession War. 
On the street diverging from the Library is a small Catholic Church of 
niarl)le. Beyond the Library is the old Academy with a long semicircle 
of elms in front, a copy, in living trees, of the stone porticos before St. 
Peter's Chnrch in Rome. Back of the Academy is Laurel Hill, Avith a 
turf rostrum m a glen surrounded by trees and rocks. Here in late 
August of each year meets the Laurel Hill Association, devoted to pre- 
serving, protecting, and increasing the beauty of the village and its en- 
virons. On the heights above the village are the mansions of David Dud- 
ley Field (for 40 years a prominent N. Y. lawyer and jurist), H. M. 
Field, D. D. (author, and for many years editor of the " Evangelist " ), Ivi- 
son (the publisher), Prof. Joy (of Columlna College), and the old Mission 
House, built by "the Great and General Court of His Majesty's Province 
of Massachusetts Bay " early in the last century. The view from these 
heights, especially about sunset, is one of the most beautiful in nature 
(it was pronoimced by Dr. McCosh equal to any in Scotland), embracing 
the rich valley of the Housatonic to the E. and W., with the valley of 
Konkapot River stretching away in the S. to Monument Mt., Bear Mt. 
rising close on the 1. and the tufted Evergreen Hill dividing the valley. 

A great people crossed deep waters from a far-distant continent in the N. W. 
and in^ircliL-d by many pil-riiaa:^^^ t.j C.c soa-.iliore and the valley of the Hudson. 



150 Route 23. TIII^ BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

Here they built cities and lived, until a great famine scattered them and verv 
many of them died. Wandering for years in quest of a iirecarious living, " tlu y 
lost their arts and manners," and a part of them settled by the Housatonic River. 
Such were traditions of the Muhhelcanew Indians told to President Dvvight. lu 
1734 the colony established a mission, and sent John Sergeant to teach the Muh- 
heiianews {" i)eople of the great moving waters ") at their village of Huussatonnue, 
which was named Stockbridge. This tribe was ever friendly to tlie English, and 
gladly received the Gospel, first from the teachings of iSergeant, who labored heie 
1734-49, and translated the New Testament, and part of the Old, into tlieir 
language. In 15 years he baptized 129 Indians. He was succeeded by Jonathan 
Edwards (preaching by interpreters, 1751-7), who in turn was succeeded by 
ytephen West. Many of the Indians erdisted in the Continental Army, and a 
company of tliem won high distinction at tlie battle of Wliite Plains. In 1751 
there were 150 Indian families here, and but (J English families ; but by 178:'. the 
balance had changed, and John Sergeant's son, then their pastor, led the tribe to 
New Stockbridge, on land given by the Oneida tribe, in Western New Yoi-lc. 
About 400 people were numbered in this emigration. They remained tliere 34 
years, and then moved to Wisconsin, where they stayed 17 years more, and ai)Out 
the year 1840 moved to the vicinity of Leavenworth, in Kansas. Where they have 
been crowded to since, this record cannot tell. 

In 1669 the great Sachem Checkatabut, head of the Massachusetts Indians, 
with 700 warriors, marched from the sea to the Hudson on a campaign against 
the Mohawks. The latter, concentrating their forces at the great tribal fortress, 
reitelled all assaults and made fierce sorties, until the men of Massachusetts, find- 
hig their provisions failing, and the whole country rising about their ears, beat a 
retreat. Their march was probably directed on StoL-kbridge, as being the seat of 
a rich, peaceful, and friendly tribe, where they could hope to get food and aid. 
But a powerful force of Mohawks, by a forced march, got ahead of them and laid 
an ambush among the dense forests and rugged ravines of the Taconics (Tagh- 
kanak, " tlie wood place," or " Forest Hills"). The retreating warriors 1 ell into 
the snare, and in the long and desperate confiict whicli ensued, Checkatabut and 
58 of his sagamores were killed, together with a great portion of the men. Only 
a handful succeeded in reaching the coast again. 

At the close of King Philii)'s War, the remnants of the insurgent confederation 
took refuge in the S. Berkshire Hills. But Talcott's " Flying Army," from the 
E., and the Moliawks, from the W. made such devastating inroads upon them 
tliat they speedily made their submission. 

Among the natives of Stockbridge are H. M. Field, D. D., the editor; Cyrus 
W. Field, the projector and organizer of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable ; E. Bacon, 
the jurist ; J. S. Hart, the author; and CatUeriiie M. Sedgwick, the pojmlar au- 
thoress of "Redwood," "Plope Leslie," &c. Also, the Kev, Dr. Mark Ibipkin.*. 

Jonathan Edwards, the greatest of American metaphysicians, was born in 
Conn., 1703, and a ter 30 years of ]>reaching he settled at Stockbridge. Here he 
wrote the remarkable treatise on " The Freedom of the Will," in whose close and 
subtle iirgument he maintained "tliat philosophic necessity was compatible with 
freedom of the will, rightly defined, and with human responsiV)ility. Tall and 
slender in person, he had a high, broad, bold forehead, piercing and luminous 
eyes, and a countenance indicative of sincerity and benevolence." The great re- 
ligious awakening which convulsed the frozen churches of New England liefoi'e 
the miildle of the last century was largely caused by his marvellous sermons, un- 
evadable in their directness, incontrovertible in their logic, and terrific in their 
lurid earnestness. Probably no preacher since Chrysostom has had such power 
of striking convulsive terror into an audience ; and this he did siinitly by his 
Words and by his intense earnestness, and without any of the graces or artifices 
of oratory. 

While President of New Jersey College, Edwards died (1758), leaving "The 
Freedom of the Will," "The Religious Alfections," and "The History of Re- 
demption," as his great monuments. Tliese, and his other writings, including 
many sermons, fill 10 octavo volumes. 

"Tlu'se Ihree, Augustine, Calvin, and Jonathan Edwards." 

*Lake Malikeenac (Stockbridge Bowl) is 3-4 M. N. of the viUage by 
admirable roads. This is a beautiful, calm laka, surrounded by liilLs, and 



THE BEEKSHIRE HILLS. Route 23. 151 

vvitli the village and spire of Curtisville peering above the trees on the B. 
The best way is to go up by the road on the heights, leaving Mahkeenac 
on the 1. and passing around its N. end, return on a road W. of the Lake 
through Curtisville. 5 niin. walk from tlie latter village is a beautiful 
little tarn called Lake Averick, or 3lGvntain Mirror. Hawthorne lived 
in a little red farmliouse near Mahkeenac for a year and a half (1850 - 51), 
but remembered the many-sounding sea on whose shores he was bom and 
had lived, and says but little about this mountain-water. But he found 
rare pleasure in watching the mountains themselves. " In its autumn 
lines, IMonument Mt. looks like a headless sphinx wrapped in a rich Per- 
sian shawl" ; "tliis A^alley in which I dwell seems like a vast basin filled 
with sunshine as with wdne; and the changes of the seasons on Monu- 
ment and Bald Mts., and the black-purple dome of Taconic, with the 
winter siinset which has a softness and delicacy wdiicli iniitart themselves 
to a wdiite marble v/orld." 

* Monument Mt. is 3-4 I\I. from Stockbridge. The Great Barrington 
road is followed to the top of the ridge, then a wood-road diverges to the 
r. When | M. from the N. sunmiit a path is taken which conducts to 
Pulpit Rock, the Profile (beyond the N. summit), cVc. On the E. side is 
a white quartz cliff of vast depth, detached from which is the Pulpit. 
From the summit a noble *view is gained, embracing the Housatonic Valley 
for many leagues, with its fair villages and mountain-walls, while tlie 
Green Mt. and Greylock tow^er in the N. and the Catskills may be seen 
in the W., if the day is clear. 

" To the north a path 
Conducts j'oii up the narrow battlements. 
Steip is the western side, shiiggy nnd wild, 
With many trees and pinnacles of flint. 
And manv a haughty crag. But to the east 
Sheer to the vale l-o down the bare old elifia, 
Huge pillars that in middle Heaven uprear 
Their weather-beaten capitals - here dark 
"With the thick moss of centuries, and there 
Of chalky whiteness, where the thunderbolt 
Hath smitten them.'' — Bryant. 

The Mt. derives its. name from a cairn which was made of stones, to which 
each passing Indian added a stoue. The legend states that it was raised over a 
beautiful nuiiden who passionately loved her cousin, and being forbidden by the 
Indian laws to marry him, she threw herself from a lofty cliff and was daslied iu 
pieres. 

Icy Glen is about 1\ M. from Stockbridge, by the road crossing the R. R. just 
to the 1. of the station, — and leaving the road near some houses at the rat. loot, 
go \\\) into a romantic glen, with seats arranged about it. From this point a wihl 
chaos of rocks, caverns, and trees ex'ends through a long ravine, wliere ice is 
found ill July. This is the N. end of Bear Mt., on whose top an obserA'atory has 
been raised, commanding a neat view. It is gained by crossing the river on a 
wire foot-bridge near the Main yt., and taking a pleasant forest-path up tlie slojie. 

Excursions are made from Stockbridge to Lee, Lenox, Great Barrington, and 
Mt. Everett, also to the romantic and flesolate town of Monterey (11 M. S. E.). 

" If you wish to be filled and satisfied with the serenest delight, ride to the 
summit of this encircling hill-ridge" (above Stockbridge) iu a summer's afternoon, 
while the sun is but an hour high. The Housatonic winds, in great circuits, all 
through the valley, carrying willows aud alders with it wherever it goes. The 



152 Route 23. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

horizon on eA^ery side is piled and terraced with mountains. Abnipt and isolated 
moTiutaius bolt up here and there over the whole stretch of plain, covered with 
evergreens." (Beecher.) 

Great Barrington is S. of Stockbriilge, 8 M. by R. R., Ih M. by liigli- 
way. The Collins House is necar the village, and is for summer-guests 
($ 10-20 a week). The new town-hall is a handsome building, in front of 
which is a beautiful bronze statue of Victory (cast in Paris), for the Sol- 
diers' Monument. Berkshire Hotel, a roomy old stone buihling, -S 10-14 a 
week; Miller's Plotel. This " is one of those places wliich one never en- 
ters without W'ishing never to leave. It rests beneath the branches of 
great numbers of the stateliest elms." (Beecher.) Fine macadamized 
roads are built around the place, on which excursions are made to Monu- 
ment Mt (4 M.), Monterey (8 M.), and Sheffield (6-7 M.). In the vi- 
cinity is a curious rock formation called Purgatory, while a path leads to 
the top of E. Mt. in 2 M. The Berkshire Soda Sjmngs (small hotel) are 
about 3 M. to the S. E. Several line villas are in the outskirts of the vil- 
lage, and the Cong, and Epis. churches are handsome buildings. 

Daily stages run 10 M. S. E. to New 3IarIbf)ro' (summer-board in S. BerJr.ihire 
Insflfnte), where there is a stalactite cave. On the way, 5 - 6 M. out, is Lake Liitl, 
a beautiful sheet of water, with groves, steamboat, &c. 

W. of New Marlboro' is Sandisheld, with beyniour and Hanging Mts. and Spec- 
tacle Ponds. Here was born Col. John Brown (1744), a brave partisan officer in 
the Revolutionary War, whose fearless and fanatical Puritan grandson. John 
Brown, invaded the powerful State of Vii-ginia at the head of 20 men (Oct. 16, 
1859), intending to become the liberator of the slaves of the South. The Virginian 
militia gathered quickly, attacked him at Harper's Ferry, killed most of liis men 
(including his two sons), and captured the woimded leader. He was hung, ac- 
cording to the sentence of the law, in November, "and met death with serene 
composure. " 

A daily stage runs from Great Barrington to N. and S. Egremont. 
The Mt. Everett House, in S. Egremont, is a small and secluded summer-hotel, 
situated about 5 M. troni the lofty Mt. Everett, and. in a thinly settled town 
abounding with lakes. The ascent of Mt. Everett is "' along a vast, unculti- 
vated slope, to the height of nearly 2,0'0 ft., when you reach the broad valley 
where the few inhabitants reside, in the centre of a vast pile of mts." The 
town has but 256 inhabitants. Dr. Hitchcock thus describes the * view from Mt. 
Everett: " You feel yourself to be standing above everything around you, and 
possess the proud consciousness of literally looking down upon all terrestrial 
scenes. Before you on the E. the valley through which the Housatonic meanders 
stretches far N. in Mass., and S. into Conn. ; sprinkled over with copse and glebe, 
with small sheets of water and beautiful villages. To the S. E. a large sheet of 
water a]ipears, of surpassing beauty. In the S. W. the gigantic ALander, Riga, 
and other nits, nuu-e remote, seem to bear the blue heavens on their heads in 
calm majesty ; while stretching across the far distant W. the Catskills hang like 
the curtains of the sky. O what a glorious display of mts. all around you ! This 
is certainly the grandest prospect in Mass., though others are more beautiful." 

Daily stages run from Great Barrington to S. Egremont (4^ M ) .and N. Eirrcmnnt 
(7.^ >I ); also, froiu llills.lale, on the Iladeni U 11. (9A M). * View from White's Hill. 

Mt. Wa.shh!;;t«n (Xonney's, and other boarding-housesl. reached from Co- 
pake, on the Harlem R. II , is on a lofty plateau between AlaHder and Cedar Jl^s., 
on the \V. , and Race Mt. and Mt. Everett, on the E. Rare views from Sunset llill, 
the Bush Lot, &c. Near the hamlet is Sky Farm, the home of the poets, Dora and 
Elaine Goodale. Mt. Wasliington town was an appanage of the great Livingston 
Manor, of New York, and first settled by tlie Dutch. It was the first town named 
for the great Virginian, its name having been given by the State Legislature in 1776. 



THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. Route 23. 153 

In EgTemont 0(^curred the last engagement in Shays* rebellion, when the insur- 
gents, after i/lmi.ieriug titockbridge, were attacked here by the Gre:it Earriugton 
militia, and 40 -fy.* were killed and wounded. 

Basli-Bi^li Falls (^see aalisLuuy, Conn.) are about 10 M. from the Mt. Everett 
JloLise, by a r.i;iit lainning down througli Mt. Washington, and around Cedar Mt. 
The views of Mt. Everett, Elk, Alander, and Cedar Mts. are line. 

6 M. S. of Great Barriugton is Sheffield (Miller Hotel, small), " lull 

of rural simplicity and beauty, riclily decorated with lovely valley and 

majestic mountain scenery," It is a quiet village, Avith a broad, shady 

street, in a rich intervale of the Housatonic, and is chiefly noted for its 

marl/le, of which Girard College (Philadelphia), with its huge columns, 

v,\is built. Picturesque roads rmi S. into Salisbury, and N. W. into 

Egremont. 

Bishop .Janes, of the Methodist Church ; D, D. Barnard, 8 years M. C. and 
Minister to Prussia, 1849-53 ; F. A. P. Barnard, President of Columbia College 
since 13o4 ; H. D. and T. Sedgwiek, lawyers, the latter of whom was derided for 
introducing a bill in the Legi.siature, prrijecting a railroad from Boston to Albany 
(1827); Chester Dewey, D. D., clergyman and botanist; Orviile Dewey, D. D., the 
Unitarian divine ; and Judge Daniel Dewey, — were natives of Sheffield. 

Northern Berkshire 

is approached from Pittsfield by the Pittsfield and N. Adams Branch E,. 
R. There is also a romantic road leading through the western valleys and 
remote from the R. R., passing Pontoosuc Lake, and then through the 
glens between the Saddle-Back Range and that line of mts. wdiich stretch 
from Old Tower Hill to the tall peak of Berlin Mt. This road passes 
through the villages of Lanesboro, New Ashford, and S. Williamstown. 
Tiie railroad crosses Laneshom (station, Berksiiire, near i^oiitoos.ic Lake), 
a t(Avn Avliich has beds of snow-whiie granular quartz, used here in the 
111 xirafacture of superior cylinder-glass. Variegated marble also aljouuls 
here, with iron and lime.stone. Savage Mt. and Constitution Hill are })ic- 
tnv'.'sque and far-viewing heights. H. W. Shaw was born here in ISIS, 
and has since 1863 attained a high reputation as a humorist, under the 
nanre of "Josh Billings." The line here enters the valley of the Hoosac 
River, which it follows to N. Adams. Cheshire is the next town, in a 
fertile alluvial valley surrounded by lofty hills. This town is famous lor 
its dairies, and in 1 802 its people sent as a New Year's gift to President 
Jefferson a mammoth cheese weighing 1,450 pounds. Before reaching 
Chesliire Harbor the great Saddle-Back Range begins, on the W., about 2 
M. from the track. A road leades from Cheshire Harbor E. into Savoy, 
a wild mt. town, with one small village called Savoy Hollov/ (Green Mt. 
House), 7 M. from Adams (SHI inhabitants). 

Adams (the birth])lace of Susan B. Anthony) is next reached. From 
Adams is the shortest and easiest of the routes to the top of the ma- 
jestic Greylock Mt. which towers over the valley. This is the highest mt. 
in Mass. and commands a * view "immense, and of amazing grandeur." 
7* 



154 Route 23. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

The road runs W. and tlien N,, crossing a spur of the mt., from wliich 
pretty views of the valley of the Hoosac and its villages are gained. De- 
scending- now over a very rough road, the Notch (sometimes called the 
Bellows Pipe, from the gusts which draw through it) is entered. The 
mt. just crossed is called Mt. Hawks. At Walden's house the Notch 
road is left, and Mt. Williams is rounded on its N. side, then the clearing 
between Mts. Williams and Prospect is passed ; the long W. slope of a 
ridge is ascended, and alter a southerly walk the summit is attained. A 
straighter and simpler, though less picturesque, way is right up the S. 
slope from S. Adams. 

The summit of Greylock is partially cleared, and overlooks the valley of the 
Hoosac oil the N. with its villages, and the peaks of the Green Mts. beyond. N. 
ofE. and S. of E., nearly GO M. away, are Mts. Monadnock and Wachusett ; due 
S. E., nearly 40 M. distant, are Mts. I'oni and Holyoke. Southward are the many 
peaks of the Berkshire Hills, hounded by Mt. Everett, with Tittsfield and its 
lakes, and other villages and towns. S. W. are the Catskills, and it is thought that 
the Mts. in the N. W. are those which environ Lake George. Saddle Mt. and 
Saddle BaU are clo.se to Greylock, and respectively N. and S. The paths to the 
summit of Greylock are difficult and easily lost, and the excursion will require a 
long day. 

N. Adams {* Wilson Rouse,, expensive and first-class, with 100 rooms, 
built by Wilson, the sewing-macliiue inventor; Ballou Iluust) is a pros- 
perous manufacturing village, on the Hoosac River. It has 20 cotton and 
woollen mills, and various other industries, employing 2,200 hands, and 
turning out $4-5,000,000 worth of goods a year. Some neat villas and a 
fine high-school house have been built, also a soldiers' monument and 
several churches (population, 12,000). Adams, on the S., has 0,000 in- 
habitants, and large mills for making paper and cotton and woollen goods. 

About 1 M. from the village (to the E.) is the Xatural Bridge, on Hudson's 
Brook, where the waters have worn a passage through the solid rock 30 rods long 
and 15 ft. wide, leaving an arch of stained marble above it at a heigh.t of 30-00 
ft. This cavernous passage was a favorite resort of Hawthorne, who spent the 
summer of 1S3S at N. Adams, and often bathed in the waters of the brook. " The 
cave makes a fresh impression upon me every time I visit it, — so deep, so irregular, 
so gloomy, so stern ; part of its walls the pure white of the marble, others covered 
with a gray decomposition and with spots of moss, and with brake growing where 
there is a handful of earth. I stand and look uito its deptlis at various points, 
and hear the roar of the stream re-echoing up. It is lil-e a heart that has been 
rent asunder by a torrent of passion, Avhich has raged and foamed, and left its 
ineffaceable traces ; though now there is but a little rill of feeling at the bottom." 

The Cascade in Nolch Brook is about U M. from the h<jtel, and has a fall of 3') ft. 
It is situated in a pretty glen. 

From the hill E. of the village are "various excellent views of mt. 
scenery, far and near," with " Greylock, appearing, Avith its two summits 
and a long, ridge between, like a huge monster crouching down slumber- 
ing, with its head slightly elevated." Other fine prospects are gained 
from the various hills which surroimd the village. 

Main St. contains several good commercial buildings, and at its end is 
a group of handsome churches. Numerous Chinamen are engaged in the 



HOOSAC TUNNEL. Route 23. 155 

shoe-shops of this town. The soil of Adams is rich and productive, and 
flocks of merino sheep are pastured on the mountain-sloi^es. Daily- 
stages run from N. Adams N, E. 5 M. to Stamford, Vt., and 11 M. to 
Heartwellville ; also S. from Williamstown to S. Williamstown, 4 M. ; 
New Ashford, 8 M. ; and Lanesboro, 15 M. The mountain-towns in 
this region are lull of picturesfpie scenery, but are mournfully decadent, 
having been drained by Western emigration. 

The W. end of the * Hoosac Tunnel is Ih !\I. S. E. of N. Adams, and 
the tuniniel is now traversed by trains. This stupendous work was 20 
years under process of excavation, and cost tlie State about % 16,000,000. 
It is 4| M. long, and cuts through the Hoosac Mt., whose vast bulk run- 
ning N. and S. closed the way until the tunnel (in 1874) opened a new 
route, nearer by 9 M. than any other between Boston and the West, and 
of easy grade. Tlie Nerthe Tunnel in S. France, and the Woodhead 
Tunnel, in England, are each nearly 3 ]\L long ; and the Hoosac is sec- 
ond only to the i\It.-Cenis Tunnel (7^ M. long). The cuttings from the 
ends (by power-drills and nitro-glycerine) were met by borings on grade 
from tlie bottom of a great shaft sunk between the peaks of tlie Hoosac 
Mt. The mountain is mostly of mica slate, except near the W. end, 
wliere great trouble was given by a soft and treacherous pudding-stone 
through wliicli a tube of brick 900 ft. long was built. 

Stages often leave N. Adams for the passage of the great Hoosac 
Mt. to the E. end of the tunnel (8 ]\I.). After a long, slow ascent by zig- 
zag gradients, the W. crest of Hoosac is gained, with a view of Greylock 
in the S. W. and the broad sweep of the Taconic Hills from the parent 
range in Vermont to the bhie and cloudlike southern peaks. S. Adams 
is plainly visible, and the valley of the Hoosac stretching W., and the 
broad, central valley of Berkshire running S. Descending the slope to the 
plateau, the buildings over the Central Shaft are seen. The lofty and 
winter- worn plateau is soon crossed and the E. summit is climbed. 

A noble view is obtained from this point, above the romantic sjiorge of the 
Deertiekl River to Wachusetfc Mt., "an<l beyond it the blue and indistinctive 
scene extended to the E. and N. for at least GO M. Beyond the hills it looked 
almost as if the blue ocean might be seen. Monadnock was visible, like a sap- 
phire cloud against the sky. The scenery on the E. side of the Green Mts. is in- 
comparably more striking than on the W. where the long swells and ridges hiive a 
flatness of effect. But on the eastern part, peaks 1-2,000 ft. high rush u]) on 
either bank of the river in ranges, thrusting out their shoulders side by side. 
S )metimes the iirecipice rises Avith abruptness from the immediate side of the 
river ; sometimes there is a valley on either side ; cultivated long and with all 
the smoothness and antique rurality of a farm near cities, this gentle picture is 
strongly set off by the wild mt. frame around it. I have never driven thi'ough 
such romantic scenery, where there was such variety and ])oldness of mt. shapes 
as this ; and though it was a sunny day, tlie mts. diversified the view with sun- 
shine and shadow, and glory and gloom." (Hawthorne.) 

From Hoosac-Tunnel Station, E. of the mt., daily stages run 10 M. N. 
up the wild and lonely Deerlield valley, to Eeadsboro {BteijitU- Valhu 
IIou.<i:), in Vt. 



15G Routo23. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

About 1 M. W. of N. Adams, and beyond the small factory village of 
Braytonville, the road to Williamstowu crosses the railroad and the Hoosac 
River. Near this crossing a small elm is seen in a meadow about 20 rods 
from the track. This elm stands on the site of old Fort Massachusetts, 
" i\\e Thermopylae of New England." (Everett.) 

This was built in 1744 as one of a cordon of forts to iirotect the frontiers. Fort 
Dummcr guarded the N. route do'wai the Conn, valley, and this fort was to block 
up tlie W. route through tlie Hudson, Hoosac, and Deerfield valleys. In 17-J6 
Col. Vrilliams and many men marched hence to Albany to join the army fur in- 
vading Canada, but meanwhile the enemy liad made a flank marcli, and the Chev- 
alier de Yaudreuil attacked the fort at the head of 90(» French and Indians. Ser- 
geant Hawks and 22 men held the place for 48 hours again.«t tliis overwhelming 
force, and only surrendered when every grain of ]Jov,der was exhausted. The 
Franco-Indian force lost 47 men before the fort. 

Ih IM- from its railroad station is 'Williamstown {Mansion House, 200 
guests; Kdlo(jg House, lb guests), a beautifid village situated in a fertile 
valley which is grandly- mountain-walled. Tlie reason of Williarastown's 
being is William.s College, a flourishing institution, with 20 instructors and 
275 students. INIorgan Hall, the largest dormitory, was built in 1883. 
Clark Hall is a fine new Norman-arched building, of granite. The Chapel 
contains the Garfielil memorial window, by Tiffany and Lafarge, and a 
noble window commemorating Prof. Albert Hopkins. Jackson Hall has 
the natural-history collections and Indian relics; Lawrence Hall (octago- 
nal), the libraiy (;50,000 volumes), portraits of college professors and pa- 
trons, and Nineveh sculptures; Goodrich Hall (a fine stone structure), the 
chemical rowans. Kellogg Hall, S., E., and W. Colleges, the ancient vine- 
covered observatory, the President's antique mansion, alongside tlie Cong. 
Church, should be noticed; also the monument to Williams-College alumni 
who died in the civil war. 

Col. Ephraim Williams, the founder of Williams College, was born at Ne-\vton, 
Mass., in 1715. He was lieut. -colonel of the Sth Massachusetts Reg. at the siege 
of Louishourg, in 1745, and commanded the trans-Connecticut forts from 1748 to 
1755. In 1755, with his regiment, he joined Gen. Johnson's army, and while at 
Albany he made a will leaving his estate for the erection of a school in a town to 
1)6 located W. of Fort Mass. to be called Williamstown. Shortly after, while 
marchin.g with 1,200 men to engage Dieskan near Lake George, his command 
was ambushed and overiiowered, and Col. Williams was killed. The school was 
established in 1790, in a hrick building (the iiresent W. College), and was char- 
tered as Williams College in 1793. Its president-; have been Dr. E. Fitch (1793- 
181 J), Dr. Z. S. Moore (1815 -21), Dr. E. D. Griffm (1821- 3G), Dr. Mark Hopldns, 
(1836-72), Dr. Paul A. Chadbourne, and Frauklin Carter. 

Near W. College is Mission Park, with a marble shaft surmounted by a 
globe, ^\•hich indicates the place whei-e Samuel J. Mills, " the Father of 
Foreign Missions in America," and his companions, consecrated themselves 
to the mission-cause (1807). Mills originated the A. B. C. F. M., and the 
American Bible Society, and died at sea (after exploring Liberia for a site 
for a colony of freedmcn) at the early age of 35. 

About 2 M. N. of the village is the famous Sand Spring, with exteu- 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 157 

sive bathing-houses. The abundant waters maintain a temperature of 
about 70°, and are benelicial in cutaneous diseases. *Greylock Hall is a 
large hotel at this point, commanding pleasant valley views. 

Williamstuwu has 4 cliurches, and its main street is 1^ M. long and 
16 rods wide, with trees, lawns, and gravel walks. The view from the 
college is grand, and includes the massive Berlin Mt. (2,814 ft.) on the 
W., Dome and East Mts. on the N., Clarksburg Mt. on the N. \V., and 
Mt. ILipkins and Prospect Mt. on tlie S. E. 

Greylock, the highest Mass. mt., overlooks the valley from a height of 
3,505 ft. (see page 15^3). Its N. peak, Mt. Williams, is reached by Slope 
Hawks, from Fort Mass. Slope Norton runs up to Mt. Prospect, the W. 
peak of the Greylock range, whose chief summit is Sinionds Peak. N. of 
the valley is a stately range, crowned by the Dome (in Vt.). On the W. 
is the Taconic range, separating Mass. from N. Y,, with rough roads cross- 
ing the Berlin, Petersburg, Kidder, and Johnson' Passes. Mt. Hophins 
(2,;~00 ft. high), between tlie Kidder and Berlin Passes, is often ascended 
for its views of Greylock and the Green Mts., and the Hoosac and Hudson 
valleys (ascend to the S. 1 M. from Berlin road, 5 M. from Williamstown). 
The wildest scenery of Massachusetts is in and around the Hopper, a 
gorge surrounded by a vast amphitheatre of mts. (Bald, Prospect, Grey- 
lock, &.C.), striped with cascades. It is entered by a wood-road from the 
highway, 4 M. S. The Oblong Road, the Torrey- Woods Road, the Green- 
Kiver Road, the road to Pownal Pond, are among the pleasant drives of 
the town. 10 M. from the village is the Snow Glen. In Flora's Glen 
Bryant composed "Thanatopsis," when an 18-year-old student. 

S. Williamstown {Sahia House), 5 M. S., midway between Greylock 

and Berlin Mt., is a beautiful rural hamlet, the seat of the famous Grej^- 

lock Institute (bo3\s' school; founded 1842). 

The Troy and Boston R. R. runs to Troy, in New York, 4-1 M. from "beautiful 
Willianistown on her classic heights." 

24. New York to Quebec. 

Also New Haven, Hartford, and Springfu'ld to Montreal. Quebec, and the 
Franconia Mts. Distances, New York t(j Qut'hec, 526 M. ; to Lake Me.ini)hreina- 
gog 365 M. ; New Haven to Quebec, 453 M. ; Hartford to Quebec, 417 M. ; 
Springfield to Quebec, 391 M ; Springfield to Lake Memphremagog, 229 M. 

The line between New York and Springfield is described in Route 21. 
In the station at Springfield the traveller leaves the New York and Bos- 
ton train, and gets into the cars of the Conn. River R. R. Time is usually 
allowed for dinner (restaurant in station ; Massasoit House, close by). 

Station, Chicopee (Cabot House), at the confluence of the Chicopee 
and Conn. Rivers, with 12,000 inhabitants and a handsome town-hall, 
adorned by a turreted clock-tower 150 ft. high. Here are the Dwiglit 
Co.'s and other cotton-mills, with 140,000 spindles and 1,600 operatives, 
woollen-mills, and smaller factories of various kinds. The Ames Manu- 
facturing Co. employs 4 - 500 men in making machinery, brass cannon, 
fine swords, and bronze statuary. The equestrian statue of Wash- 



158 Route 24. NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 

ington, at Boston, many soldiers' monuments, and the superb "bronze 
doors of the Senate at Washmgton were cast here. The doors of the 
House of Representatives were cast at Munich, and those of the Senate 
were to have been made there, but the over-prudent Bavarians demanded 
prepayment from the U. S. Government (it was the darkest year of the 
Secession War). With a proper spirit this was refused, and the work 
was given to the Cliicopee Foundry, though but little was hoped from it. 
To the surprise of all, tlie doors were finished admirably, and challenge 
comparison with the best of Munich work. During the Rebellion, this 
foundry was worked night and day, and supplied the Republic with vast 
amounts of shot and shell, and over 1,000 cannon. 

At Cliicopee Falls, 2 M. E., are cotton-mills employing 1,000 hands, 
besides large factories which make farmers' tools. 

Station, Willimansett, about 2 M. above which is the manufacturing 
village of S.-IIadley Falls (small hotel), opposite Holyoke and endowed 
with a great water-power. Mucli of the intervale land here and in 
the adjacent town of Hadley is used for the cultivation of tobacco, a 
profitable crop. After leaving Willimansett, the line crosses the 
broad Connecticut and- stops at Hoiyoke (* Windsor Hotel ; Samoset 
House). This is a rapidly growing manufacturing city of (50,000 inhab- 
itants, at Hadley Falls, which furnish the greatest water-power in New 
England. Timothy Dwight speaks of "the fantastic beauty, and sublime 
majesty of these Falls. Within 1^ M. the river falls 60 ft., and opposite 
the city a dam has been built 30 ft. high and over 1,000 ft. long, throwing 
the Avater into a canal SA'stem 3 M. in jiggregate length, which can furnish 
power enough to drive 1,000,000 spindles. The original dam of 184:7 was 
burst away before the water had filled it, and the present one (1849) con- 
tains 6,000,000 ft. of lumber, spiked to the ledges on the bottom of the 
river, and plated with boiler-iron. The leading product of Holyoke is 
paper, made by 3,500 men in 2G factories (178 tons of paper are made 
daily). Holyoke is the chief paper-making city of the world. There are 
2,800 operatives in the cotton-mills, 800 make thread, 450 make beavers 
and cassimeres, 500 work on machiner}', and others make alpacas, wire, 
cutlery, rubber, screws, silks, &c. 

Holyoke is surrounded on three sides by the river, and has broad and 
pleasant streets, with 13 churches, 4 national and 3 savings banks, a daily 
paper, and a public library. The handsome new *City Hall cost 
$340,000, and is of rough-split granite, with a tower 215 ft. high, con- 
taining a memorial room with a richly stained window. The large inner 
hall seats 1,300, and has elaborate stained windows. The Soldiers' Monu- 
ment is a statue of the Goddess of Liberty holding a laurel wreath. 

Mt. St. Vincent (formerly Inf/leside), the Sisters of Charity orphana<re, is 
beautifuUy situated and attracts m.-iny visitors. Mtt Nonotuek {Eyrie House) 
is a notable view-poiut (see page 160). 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route U- 159 

Tlie railroad passes out in full view of the great dam, whose fine water- 
fall has been removed by the necessity of building out an inclined plane, 
to prevent the eating oiit of the ledges by the heavy perpendicular fall. 

After leaving Holyoke the line runs N. between the river and the long 
range of Mt. Tom (on the 1.), while Mt. Holyoke is seen ahead on the r. 
The train now passes through the gap between these two mts., and Am- 
herst and Mt. Warner are visible on the r. front, leagues away over the 
rich valley, while Easthampton and Pomeroy's Mt. are seen on the 1. 
The line crosses the river to Ox Bow Island, which was a peninsula xmtil 
1840, when a rush of the swollen river cut through its isthmus. After 
crossing the rich intervales bordering on the river, the train enters 
Northampton. 

Nonotuek was bought of its Indian o^\mers, in 1653, for 100 fathoms of wampum, 
10 coats, &c., and was named Nortlia:iipton, since many of its settlers came from 
that Englisli town. Solomon Stoddaid was for 56 years pa.stor here, and was a 
man of grave and majestic appearance. He rode once through an ambush in the 
forest, and when the French soldiers were ahout to shoot liim, tlie awe-struck In- 
dians stopped tlieni, saying, "That is the Englishmen's God." The village was 
suri'ounded T)y a jialisade and wall, which, however, was stormed in three jdaces 
by King Philip's Indians (1676). Three veteran companies were defending the 
jtlace, and after a desperate conflict in the streets the assailants were driven out. 
The church was built in 1655, at a cost of £ 14, and was 2G ft. by 18. The i)resent 
stone church i.s the fifth on that site. The Christians were called to meeting by 
the blasts of a trumpet : 

" Each man equipped on Sunday morn, And looked in form, as all mns* prant. 

With psahn-book, shot, and powder-horn, Like th ancient true church militant." 

jNIcFingal. 

In the old cemetery are buried 4 Senators of the United States, — Ashmun, Mills, 
Bates, and S-tmng, the latter of whom was for 11 years Gov. of Mass., and. oppos- 
ing the War of 1812, limited the exertions of the State to her own defence. Here 
also is buried David Brainerd, a heroic and itowerful missionary to the Indians, 
author of " Mirabilia Dei apud Indicos," and son-in-law of Jonathan Edwards. 
Edwards was pastor here, 1727-50, and "was dismissed for insisting on a higher 
and purer standard of admission to the comnumion table." The Dwights, Aliens, 
and Tappans were Northampton families prolific in able men, and W. D. Whit- 
ney, the leading American philologist [one of the finest Sanscrit scholars in the 
world) was born here in 1S27. 

Northampton {Mansion House) " is the frontis})iece 

of the book of beauty which Nature opens wide in the valley of the 

Connecticut." An English tourist (Stuart, in 1833) calls it ''the 

most beautiful village in America." Its broad and shaded streets and 

handsome villas are placed in a rich tract of broad intervale and about 1 

M. from the river. There are a number of stores and public buildings on 

the broad street near the spacious and comfortable Mansion House, and 

in this vicinity is the brownstone building occupied by tlie Trustees of the 

Smith Chanties. 

Oliver Smith, of Hatfield, died in 1S45, leaving $.370,000 for charitable o1)jects. 
The youths and maidens and widows of the eiglit adjacent towns receive, under 
certain conditions, loans, dowries, and small pensions from this fund. By skill- 
ful management on the part of the Trustees (who are chosen by electors from the 
eight towns), the funds had increased by 1866 to $854,000, and by the terms of 



160 Routed//. MOUNT IIOLYOKE. 

Mr. Smith's will, a part of this is to by devoted to the establishment of an agricul- 
tural school in ttiis town iu the year l!J05. 

Siiiitli College is at Nortuampton, and was endowed in 1871 by Miss Sophia 
Smita, fur the higher education of women. Its property is vaiuod at *o25,U!JU. 
The main building is surnninded by the houses of the students, Music Hall, tiie 
Gyuina.-ium, &c. Tbe lliilyer Art Gallery contains many interesting paintings' and 
casts, and a number of studios The handsome seculir-Gothic buildings are ad- 
niirably placed, on a hill, behind a fringe i>f elms. There are 260 students and 10 
instructors. Two large public libraries are near by. 

On the beautiful and far-viewing Hound Hill, W. of the city, among noble groves 
and lawns, stand the buildings long occupied by the celebrated classical school, 
the Massachusetts Eton, founded ia 1S23 by George Bancroft, the historian, and 
J. G. Coggswell, the author. Tue views thence are very extensive and pleising. 
On the same hill is the Clarke Itisfitutionfor Mutes (endowed with ^ 3U0,00U), 
•which teaches the system of articulation in place of the sign alphabet. It accom- 
modates 80-90 persons. 1 M. S. VV. of the city is the * State Lunatic Asylum, 
with imposing buildings which accommodate 300 patients. These buildings are 
512 ft. long, and have 4 acres of floors. 

Northampton became a city iu 1833. It has about 13,000 inhabitants, and a 
valuation of S 8,000,000. Its manufactures amount to S 3,000,000 a year, employ- 
ing 1,600 persons. 

JFloi-eiice is 2.\ M. W. of the city, and is the seat of several factories, the chief 
of which is the Nuuotuck Shk Co , employing 500 hands. 

Goshen {Ilujhland House ; Lyman's) is a summer-frequented hill-town, 6 M. 
by daily .stage from Williamsburg. 

Mt. Nonotuck, the E. peak of the Mt. Tom range, is ascended from Mt.-Tom 
station by a road and path, and has the Eyrie House (25 cts. entrance) on ifs far- 
viewing summit. A stfeam-ferry crosses the Connecticut from Mt. Tom to Mt. 
Holyoke. 

*Mt. Holyoke, '=the ^em of Mass. mts.," is 2 M. S. E of North- 
ampton, A c;irriai,^e-road winds up from the ferry to the mountain rail- 
Avay, up Avhich passengers are drawn in small cars b}' a stationary engine 
($1 up and down ; 50 cts. to walk). Upon the summit a small hotel was 
built in 1821, whose site is now occupied by the Prospect House. 3-4,000 
persons ascend the mt. every season. The carriage road is 3 M. long, and 
the railway, in its GOO ft. of incline, rises 305 ft. perpendicular. Between 
the building of the railway in 1854 and its remodelling in 186G, 125,000 
persons ascended on it. The summit is 1,120 ft. above the sea, and 8-iO ft. 
ai)ove the river, and is part of a greenstone ridge running from West IJock 
at New Haven to Belchertown. The invincil)le trnp-ro -k of the mount 
resisted the glaciers during their long grinding attacks, but the great lake 
which, according to Indian tradition, filled the basin to the N., at last 
broke awav between Nonotuck and Holyoke, and became a river. "West- 
ern Mass. is underlaid with gneiss, but the Conn, valley has a belt of 
coarse, new red sandstone 10-10 M. wide, of the Permian and Triassic 
sj'stems. 

From this peak is " the ri'-hest * * view in New England, if not in the 
U. S." It has often been called, by distinguished visitors, the finest view 
in America. 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. IGl 

On the S. are seen numerous villages in the valley, Springfield, the graceful 
sinuosities of the broad river, the distant spires of Hartford (40 M.), the Blue and 
tlie Lyme Mts., and East and West Rocks at New Haven (70 M.). S. W., beyond 
Mt. Tom, are glimpses of the valley of Westlield River, and on the W. Pom- 
eroy's Mt. and the high hills of Hampshire and Central Berkshire are seen. N. 
W are 8,000 acres of garden-like meadows, with Northampton directly over them, 
and above the village, 42 M. away, is Greylock. " in dim and misty grandeur." 
F.irther to the r. the hills of Franklin County are seen, dominated by Mts. Toby 
and Sugar Loaf, while in the far N. the blue peaks of the Green Mis. overlook all. 
The great lacustrine basin of the Conn., 20 M. by 15, is nearer, in the N., with fair 
Hadley on its " plaided meadows," in a bend of the river, and Hatlield just across 
the river and intervales, under the shadow of Mt. Warner (to the r.). M. N. E. 
is Amherst with its colleges, and beyond, "far in the N. E., rises in insulated 
grindeur the cloud-capped Monadnock" (.^0 M.). In the E. Mt. Wachusett (35 M. 
away) rises above tlie crowd of hills which fill the E. raid S. E. 3S towns are 
seeii from this lofty peak, with parts of 4 States. 

There are good views from other peaks of the Holyoke Range (which is 9 M. 
long), and at its W. eu<l are lofty cliffs of columnar basalt which have been named 
the Titan's Piers. 

The famous Mount Holyoke Seminary is at S. Hadley, which is reached 
by dally stages in 4 M. from S. Hadley Falls, ()pposite Holyoke. It is a collegi- 
ate school for girls, with a 4-years' course and series of lectures ; and has jire- 
jiared many missionary- women for their labors in heathendom. The Seminary 
was founded in 1836, by Mary Lyon ; and has 30 Instructors and about 200 stu- 
dents. The main building is surrounded by trees, and commands a beautiful 
view of the gorge between Mts. Tom and Holyoke, ami the Noiihami)ton iiitei"- 
vales. The library is in a new fire-proof building. The Seminary is also ap- 
proached from Northampton, by way of Smith's Ferry. 

Old Hadley is 2^ M. N. E. of Northampton, over the river, and lie.s on 
the E. of a rich and level intervale, containing 2 - 3,000 acres, which is an- 
nually overflowed by the river. The Connecticut here make.s a curve of 
5 M. to accomplish 1 M. of direct course, and the neck of the pieniusula is 
crossed by the street of Hadley. West Street was laid out before the 
settlement as 1 M. long and 20 rods wide, but by the encroachments of 
the river and the inhabitants, it has been reduced to a length of 300 rods 
and a width of about 16 rods. This wide, park-like * street is adorned 
witli about 900 ancient elm-trees, 4 lines of whicli stretch from river to 
river, and is called " the handsomest street by nature in New England." 
Middle and East Sts. are also wide and shaded avenues, running N. 
and S. On the meadows near this charming rural village great quantities 
of broom-corn are raised, which, with much of the same material im- 
ported from the West, is made into brooms and brushes. This industry 
was commenced in 1790. The hotel is the Elinwood House. 

In 1G50, fierce theological discussions were carried on at Hartford, and many of 
its wealthier families left the place in search of peace and good-will, and settled 
on the Indian domain of Norwottock, which they named in honor of Hadleigh, in 
Suffolk, England. In 1G64 Goffe and Whalley, two generals of the Army of 
Parliament, and judges of the court which put King Charles I. to death, came here 
and lived for 15 years concealed in tlie pastor's house. They had been forced to 
fly for their lives after the Restoration, and after 3.^ years of hiding about New 
Haven they came to Hadley. Their presence iiere was only known of liy three 
citizens. On Sept. 1, 1675, while the people wei-e assembled in the church, iu 
fasting and prayer, the town was attacked by swarms of Indians. After a .sharp 
fight, the English gave way, when Gen. Gofte, "an ancient man with hoary locks, 
of a most venerable and dignified aspect," aftpeared suddenly, commanded and 



1G2 Route 21 NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 

led a fresh attack by the people, and scattered the dismayed Indians in all direc- 
tions. He then disappeared to his hiding-place, and tlie astonislied villagers, for 
many years, attributed their deliverance tu the visit of a militant angel. Gen. 
Whalley died here in ltJ79. Tlie foregoing is the chief local legend. 

In 1(376 700 Indians attacked the town just after the Falls Fight, but after a 
long and bitter stru-gle they were repelled with severe losses. 

F; D. Huntingt()n'^''Episcopal Bishop of Central New York, was a native of this 
village. Joseph Hooker, " Fighting Joe," was born at Hadley in 1S15. He was 
distinguished at the battles of Monterey and Chapultepec, in the Mexican War, 
and bore high commands during the Secession War. At Antietam, he commanded 
the r. of the army, and afterwards, at the head of the Army of the Potomac, he 
was defeated in a long and terrible battle at Chancellorsville, Va., losing 16,000 
men. In lSo.3- 4 he did brilliant service in the battles resultant on the reoecu- 
pation of Georgia and Alabama by the National armies. 

Easthampton (see page 110) is 4 M. S. W. of Northampton. Amherst (see pni^e 
100) is 7^ M. N. E. (daily stages) by a road which crosses tlie river on a bridge 
1,080 ft. long, and passes througli Old Hadley. 

Hatfield {Hatfield House) is a heautiful and historic village 1^ M. N. 
of Haillej^, and 2J M. E. of Hatfield station (stages from trains). It lias 
abont 1,200 inhabitants, and is famous for its fat cattle and tobacco- 
crops. The village is on the rich Connecticut intervales, with Horse Ut. 
on the W. ; and is connected with N. Hadley (under Mt. Warner) by a 
ferr^^ Hatfield is on the W. side of the river, and HatUey on the E. 

In 1675 Hatlield was attacked by 800 Indians, but the veteran companies of 
Moseley and Pike fouglit desperately amid the bunung houses, ami held out till 
relief came. In 1676'^ 600 Indians made a bold ami disastnms attack ; and in 
1677 the palisade was stormed and 26 persons were killed and captured. 

After leaving Northampton, the Conn. River Rfrilroad passes near the 
Great Bend of the Conn, in sight of Old Hadley (to the r. ), then diverges 
from the river, which is not seen again for 30 M. Station, Hatfield, be- 
yond which the track runs near the base-line of the State Trigonometrical 
Survey (39,009.73 ft. long), which is laid along the plains of Hatfield and 
Wliately (on the r.). Stations, N. Hatfield and Whately (Whately 
House), whose village is seen in the W. Beyond the village is the far- 
viewing Mt. Esther, and the picturesque Wliately Glen, with its cascades. 

The train passes Sugar Loaf Mt. and stops at S. Deerfield (small hotel). 
A road leads from the village to the Mountain House, on the summit of 
the conical S. peak of Sugar Lnafi Mt., which rises sheer from the 
meadows and near the river. From this point is visible the broad, rich 
valley, with its villages of Amherst, Hadley, Hatfield, Northampton, and 
several others, with Holyoke seen beyond the Titanic gateway between 
Nonotuck and Mt. Holyoke. Close at hand on the E. is Sunderland, 
imder the shadow of Hi. Toby. 

The rich and peaceful valley seen from Sugar Loaf was the scene of the bloodiest 
tragedies of King Pliilip's and tlie later Indian wars. King Philip directed tlie 
movements of tlie western Indians fromhis liead-qiarters on this peak, —so runs 
tradition. Table Rock is a beeding cliff on the F. side, beneath which is a seat 
cut in tlie rock, called King Philip's Chair (see Bristol, R. I.). A sharp skirmish 
took place just S. of the Mt., in August, 1675, when 26 Indians and 10 colonists 
were killed. t, t i 

In the N. part of S. Deerfield village is a monument on the Bloodii Brook battle- 
field. Sept. 18, 1675, Capt. Lathrop and 84 men were convoying a train of grain- 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 1G3 

wagons from ruined Deerfield to Hadley, and as they i)assed over a small Ivrook, 
they stopped to rest and pick the wild grapes which liung in clusters over its 
waters. While thus diobaaJeJ, they were suddenly attaclced by 700 Indian 
warriors. Lathrop ordered liis men to talce refuge behind the trees and fire from 
their shelter, but they were speedily enveloped by the enemy, and but 7 men es- 
cai)ed the general massacre, which included the teamsters and reapers and 7G 
soldiers. Capt. Moseley, "an old Jamaica buccaneer," marched rapidly to the 
sound of the volleys, and charged and recharged Jn solid company front through 
the heathen swarms. Major Ti-eat and 100 Mohcgan and Pequot Indians (allies of 
the English) also marched up from Hadley, and 9(5 of the hostile warriors were 
killed on the field. 

A rude monument was soon erected here, and in 183.'i the iJeople of 5 towns as- 
sembled and dedicated a fine marble monument, with an address by Edward 
Everett. 

" In the country, districts that nestle in the dells seem to have been there for 
ten centuries at least ; and it gives one a sho dc to light on such a place as Bloody 
Brook, and to be told that only 200 years ago Capt. Lathrop was slain here by 
Red Indians, wiih 80 youtli, ' the flower of Essex County,' as the old Puritan 
histories say." (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

About 5 M. N. passing (on tlie r. ) tlie monument, and then the long 
ridge of Deerfield Mt., the line jxpproaches the Deerfield River, and stops 
at Old Deerfield. This place was settled by 

men of Dedhani in 1670, on the Indian domain of Pocomtuck, and was 
named from the abundance of deer found in its forests. 

Sept. 1, 1675, the village was attaciked and burnt, and then abandoned. It was 
a'ter harvesting its deserted fields that such disa.ster befell at Bloody Brook, " a 
choice company of young men, the very flower of Essex County, none of whome 
were ashamed to sjieak with the enemy in the gate." In 1694 a fresh attack was 
made, but it was rei)ulsed by tlie ])eople, headed by their pastor. Rev. John Wil- 
liams. Feb. 20, 1704, while the watch was sleeping, and the snow had drifted 
over the palisades, 2 hours before daylight, the place was attacked by Major de 
Rouville, with 340 French and Indians. The walls were easily passed, and a ter- 
rible scene of slaughter, pillage, and conflagration ensued, wliicli lasted for three 
hours. But one house escaped, and its loopholes were guaixled by 7 bold colo- 
nists, whose wives were casting bullets for their guns. 47 English were killed, 
and 112 taken prisoners. A few escaped, and alarmed tiie lower towns, and Hat- 
field sent a force in pursuit, which overtook and was defeated by Ue Rouville on 
the same day. Mrs. Williams was murdered in the Leyden Gorge, and other 
weakly captives soon shared her fate. On the first Sunday of their march north, 
Rev. John Williams preached fmm the text, " My virgins and my young men 
are gone into captivity." Arrived in Canada, the jn-isoners were forced to attend 
Roman Catholic services, and Mr. Williams was off'ered his freedom, a pension, 
and his children, if he would join that church. He sternly refused, but 28 of his 
people chose to remain in Canada, and joined the Roman Church, " whence kindred 
blood now rattles bad French in Canada or sputters Indian in the N. and N. W." 
The captives were kindly treated l)y the French, and 00 of them were redeemed 
in 17O0. The pastor's little daughter, Eunice (7 years ohl), who was kept by the 
Indians, afterwards marrie<l an Indian and became a Catholic, and often in after 
years made visits to Deerfield with her tribe. Not one iota of regard for the cus- 
toms of civilized life, or for the tenets of the Pm-it m Church, remained in her 
heart. De Knuville attncl^ed Deerfield ajrain in 1701), but was handsomely re- 
pulsed. In ISOl - 5 the town sent <>ut .H20 soldjcvs. 

Daily st.Tjes run 2 M. S. E. to Sunderland, a quiet riverside hamlet near 
the foot of Mt. Toby, to whose summit a road lias been made, with a tower 
(63 ft. high) and hnsiiiee on tn]). The view thence is one of the noblest in New 
England. " It is hard to tell which mt. view is fine.«t, from Ilolyoke, Tom, Sugar 
Loaf, or Toby. If you add tlie wuuderlul view from the Springfield Armory tuw(a-, 
and thiit from Taleott Mt., 3 ou have au array of mt. views uu.>^uri)ass(id between 
the Atlantic Ocean and the lloeky Mts." Daily stages also run W. 6 M. to Con- 
way {L'onwaij House), a prosperous farming-town ; and Aslifield (Aihjitld 
House), the mountain-home of Geo. Wm. Curtis and Chas. Eliot Isortoa. 



164 Routed. BELLOWS FALLS. 

Deerfieldhas 3,500 inhabitants, a soldiers' monument, 4 libraries, and G churches. 
Tobacco, hay, and grain grow on the ricli meadows; and cutlery and brooms are 
made. Among its natives were llichard llildreth, the liistorian ; Edward Hitchcock, 
the geologist : Bishop John AVilliams ; Gen. Kufus Saxton ; and George Fuller, the 
arfist. B W Champney, the celebrated artist, has his home at Beerfield ; and 
Elbridge Kingsley lives at Hatlield. 

Memorial Hall is the old Deerfield Academy, built in the last century, remodelled, 
and occupied by a fine museum of Kevolutionary and colonial relics, Indian weapons 
and other curiosities, spinning-wheels, ancient furniture and utensils, the great 
door chopped into by an Indian tomahawk in 1704, and a cannon brought iiere 
(probably) by Gov. Belcher, in 1735. 

Old Deerfield is the pleasautest part of the town. Here are the summer boarding- 
houses of Mrs. John Stebbias and Mrs. Christopher Stebbins. 

Just beyoud Deerfield the railroad crosses the Deerfield River. 

Station, Greenfield (see Route 25). From this place the line runs N. 
E. to Bcrnardston, a small village under the shadow of West Mt. This 
cold and lofty toivn was granted in 1736 to the veterans of the Falls 
Fight. A few min. after passing Bernardston the train comes in sight of 
the Conn. Eiver, and reaches the station-house at 8. Vernon, the terminus 
of the Conn, River Line. 

The train now passes 07i the rails of the Central Vermont R. R. Sta- 
tions, S. Vernon, Vernon, and Erattleboro, see Route 12. Beyond 
Brattleboro are the stations, Dummerston, Putney, E. Putney, and West- 
minster, which pertain to small hill-villages. In Putney are long slrata 
of roofing-slate; and the rare mineral called fluor spar (of a rich emerald 
green) is found in tlie E. of the town. In 1755 a strong timber fort was 
built on the Great Meadows in Putney, which protected the settlement 
until the conquest of Canada rendered it unnecessary. All the inhabitants 
lived in the fort in small houses. 

At "Westminster occurred a sharp skirmish in the course of " the contest be- 
tween Puritan and Patroon " (as the struggle of Vermont against the royal edict 
wliich gave her to New York has been termed). Tlie royal New York judges were 
to hold court here, but the citizens captured the Court-House, March 13, 1775, 
and were only dislodged by an attack at midnight. 

The oldest church in Vermont is in this village (1 M. S. of the station). It was 
built in 1770, and has been secularized. Across the river from Westminster is the 
old frontier town of "Waljiole (see Route 26). 

Station, Bellows Falls (* Island House). This was a favorite Indian 
resort because of the great niimbers of salmon and shad near the rapids. 
8 rods S. of the old bridge, on the W. baidc, Schoolcraft found Indian 
hieroglyphs on the rocks, which he thinks are the records of some ancient 
battle. The village was named for Col. Bellows, the founder of Walp.ole, 
and great-grandfather of Dr. H. W. Bellows. The river falls 42 ft. 
within ^ M. near the village, and forms white and impetuous rapids, 
dashing betAveen and among the rocks which strew the river-bed. In 
low water the current is compressed into a channel of 16 ft. in width, 
between two large rocks. A canal \ M. long has been built around the 



NEW YOEK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 1G5 

falls, and on the water-power thus aiforded, several factories are located. 

Opposite tlie falls is Mt. Kilhurn, a wooded eminence which gives a pretty 

view of the river and village. The old name of this hill was Fall Mt., 

but President Hitclicock and a large delegation of stiidents from Amherst 

and Middlebury Colleges met here in 1856, and named it Mt. Kilhurn, in 

honor of a brave frontiersman. The Fall Mt. House is situated at the 

foot of tills eminence. 

Pleasant excursions are made by the suuuner visitors here, to Warren's Pond, 
in Alstead, N. H. ; to tlie Abenaquis Mineral Hj^rln'jn ; and to West'ininstcr. 

From 13'illows Frills the Chesliire R. R. nun IS. E. to Fitchhurg and Boston (114 
M.\ aud the Central Vt. R. R. Roes fo Burlinfjton (143 M. See p.ige 181). Daily 
stages to Alsteail (3 M ), Marlow (13 M.), Acworth, Leinpster, Grafton, &c. 

The train crosses the Conn. Eiver into the State of New Hampshire, 

and runs through the long river-town of Charlcstown, with 3 pleasant 

villages and 3 inns. 

This town was settled under the authority and by the people of Massachusetts, 
in 1740, and was numeil Number Four. A garrisoned fort was located here, and 
between 1746 and 17G0 tlie enemy committed many depredations in the vicinity. 
The fort was formally besieged in August, 1746, and after a suecessful defence, the 
garrison and colonists abandoned the place. In 1747, Capt. IStevens reoccupied it 
with 30 men, under orders from the Mass. government. He was soon attacked by 
Delieline, a skillul partisan, with 400 French and Indians, who besieged the Fort for 
three days, exhausting every appliance of craft and tactics. Debeline threatened 
to massacre tlie garrison unless they surrendered, but they seut back a defiant 
answer, and a long and desperate attack followed. The heroic handful of pro- 
vincials multiplied themselves and repelled the attacks on every side, until the 
enemy withdrew and reti-eated to Canada. Capt. iStevens was highly honored by 
the people, and Commodore Sir Cliarles Knowles, whose ship then lay at Boston, 
seut him an elegant sword. When the tract was resettled, it was called Charles- 
town, in honor of Sir Charles. During the later French wars tliis Avas the prin- 
cipal station t)u the mditary road betv/een the New England coast and Ticonderoga 
and Montreal. The remains of the Fort were plainly perceptible in 1810. 

Charlestown village is situated between two broad, rich meadows, and 
has some neat buildings, on a long, wide, well-shaded street. " Its se- 
cluded loveliness is calculated to awaken the admiration of the traveller." 
Across the river is the town of Springfield {Sprintjjield House), on the 
Black River, which falls 110 ft. in 600 ft., with one sheer fall of 60 ft. 
Stages 4 times daily (8 M.). 

Station, Claremcmt Junction, soon after leaving which the line crosses 
Sxujar River by a bridge 600 ft. long and 105 ft. above the water. The 
rich intervales of the Conn, are now crossed, with Ascutney Mt. on the 
1., and the train passes over the river on a bridge whose predecessor was 
carried away by ice in 1866. Station, I Fi^icZi-or (Windsor House), a pretty 
village on highl.inds over the river and near the foot of Ascutney. It i.s 
a flourishing town, with some manufactures and a large country trade. 
It has 4 churches, a bank, 2 weekly papers, a line Government building 
used for U. S. Courts and Post Office, and the Vermont State Prison 
(which usually has 70 - 90 prisoners). At Y/indsor, during a fearful 



1G6 Route 24. NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 

thunder-storm J and with the appalling news of the fall of Fort Ticonde- 
roga ringing in their ears, the deputies of the Vermont townis adopted the 
co-istitution of the State, July 2, 1777. 

Ascutiiey Mt. lies S. W. of the village. A road has been constructed to the 
suniiuit (5 M.), and a small house has beeji built there tor a shelter. Horses and 
guides from the Windsor House. A tine view is obtained trom this isolated 
pealc, which is :i,:J:iO It. above the sea. In the W. and X. Yv'. are Shrewsbury ai.id 
Killington Peaks, near Rutland, while the Green Mt. chain runs off to the N. in 
a long line of rounded sunnnits. The hill towns of Windsor Co. are seen in the 
N., and the Conn. River and valley close at hand in the E. stretch away to tlic 
N. and S. through a ]jleasant farming country. Croydon, Sunapee, and Kearsarge 
Mts. are seen in the E., the latter being dimly outlined on the horizon. The In- 
diiin name Ascutney means " Three LJrotlicrs," and is supjiosed to refer to three 
eingular valleys which run down the W. slope of the Mt. There are marks of 
volcanic action here, and the early settlers often saw a lurid light hanging over 
the sunnnit on whiter nights. Daily stages rmi to Cornish and Plamfield, N. H. ; 
also to W. Windsor, Reading (12 M.), and Proctorsville (22 M.). 

Salmon P. Chase was born at Cornish iu 1S08. His uncle, Dudley Clia.se, was 
U S. Senator, 1S13-17, and 1825-31 ; and iiis uncle, IMiil.inder Cha.sc, was Prot.- 
Epis. Bishop of Ohio, P">ly - 31, and of lilinois in lS3.')-52. (These three, together 
with their brothers, Haruch and lleber Chase, were born at Cornish, and graduated 
fmui Dirtmouth College.) He -settled iu Ohio about 183'J iu the practice of law, be- 
came a leader iu the anti-slaverj' niovement, and was U. S. Senator, 184l>-55, and 
Governor of Ohio, 1855-59. In 18G1 he liecame Secretary of the U 8. Treasury, 
and rendered great service to the Union by his skilful financial poiicy during the 
Ilebellion. He resigned iu 1864, and was made Chief Justice of the United States. 
Mr. Chase died in 1873. 

Wm. M. Evarts's estate of Runnymede is near Windsor. 

Stations beyond Windsor, Ilariland, N. Hariland, and White River 
Junction (see Route 29). 

Just after leaving the Junction, the train crosses White River, and 
passes to Noinvich, where a large military school called the Norwich 
University was established from 1834 to 1866, when its buildings v/ere 
burnt and the school was removed to Northfield. The village ( Union 
House) is about 1 M. W. of the station. Stages from Norwich station 
run to Hanover, about £- M. S. E., across the Connecticut River. Han- 
over (Dartmouth House) is the seat of Dartmouth College, which ranks 
among the first of American educational institutions. 

This college was founded here in 1770 by Rev. Eleazer W^heelock, as a school 
for missionaries to the Indians, and for Cliristian Indians, and had at first 2-i 
students, domiciled in huts built of green logs, situated in the midst of a vast 
wilderness. 44,000 acres of land were granted to it by the State, which also raised 
a building 150 by 50 ft. for its use, while money was sent to its aid by English 
l)atro]is. The project of educating the Indians was rendered subordinate after a 
careful trial, several Masters of Arts having returned to savage life. The College 
(named for the Earl of Dartmouth, President of its board of trustees) had 150 
students iu the year 1790. Iu 1871 it had 27 instructors and 3S2 students. Between 
1771 and 18G7 it graduated 3,550 men. 3 of whom have been U. S. Cabinet Ministers ; 
15 have been U. S. Senators, and 61 Representatives ; 31 Judges of the U. S. and 
State Supreme Courts ; 15 Governors ; 4 Ambassadors ; 25 Presidents of Colleges ; 
104 Professors ; and 800 Clergymen. The degree of LL. D. has been conferred on 
24 alumni, and that of D. D.on 106. "Not to enlarge, with few exceptions, her 
(Dartinoutli's) influence in religion has been cmpliatically conservative, and her 
sympathies in a national point of view eminently jiatriotick. She has been the 
nursery of sound divines, devoted missionaries, profound jurists, skilful iihysieians, 
brilliant statesmen, accomplished scholars, classical and learned writers. Such 
are the worthies she has given to the Union, and on these rest her claims to a 
nation's gratitude." (Chapman.) 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 1G7 

Among the most distinguished alumni of Dartmouth were John Wheelock, its 
second President, 1779-1815; Asa Burton; President Porter, of Andover Semi- 
nary ; Heniaa Allen ; Gen. llipley, the hero of Niagara and Chippewa ; Alvan 
Hyde, D. D., LL. D. ; Amos Kendall ; iSenator Levi Woodbury; Daniel Poor, the 
Ceylon missionary ; Judge Joel Parker ; J. B. Felt, the annalist ; B. Greenleaf, the 
arithmetician; T. C. Upham, D. D., the metaphysician; Alpheus Crosby, the 
pliilologist ; Nathan Lord, D. D., tlie 0th President ; and Asa D. Smith, D. D., 
the 7th President of Dartmouth ; J. H. Noyes, the founder of the 

Oneida Community ; C E. Potter, the autlior ; John Lord, the historical essayist ; 
R. B. Kimb;dl, the author ; Gen. Sliepley ; G. P. Marsh, the pliilologist and diplo- 
matist ; Bisliops Chase aud Dorr ; George Ticknor, tlic historian of Spanisli 
literature ; Senator Rufus Choate, the lawyer and orator ; Salmon P. Chase, the 
statesman antl jurist ; and Daniel Webster. 

Tlie famous Dartmouth College case was opened early in th.e present century by 
the State of N. H. attempting to infringe on the vested riglits of the College. 
After much litigation, the case was decided by tlie State Supreme Court against 
the College. It was then carried by api)eal to the Supreme Court of the United 
States, wliere, after long arguments by tlie leading lawyers of America, — Daniel 
Webster defending Dartmouth, — the State judgment was reversed, and the College 
was restored to its ancient privileges and independence. 

The college fronts on a fine campus, in Hanover village, and on an up- 
land plain. Dartmouth Hall is the long central building, and in line with 
it are Wentworth and Thornton Halls. In front is Reed Hall, with the 
college library of GO, 000 volumes. These buildings are old and plain, con- 
trasting with Culver Hall, a handsome new structure E. of tlie line, with 
a natural-history collection and the State museum of minerals. Bissell 
Hall is the gvninasium. N. W. is the Chandler Scientific School; while 
the Medical College and the observatory are in the vicinity. The beautiful 
College I'ark covers 34 acres. The scenery about this quiet academic vil- 
lage is fine, embracing tall hills to the E. and S., Mt. Ascutney in the 
S. \V., and picturesque upland ])lains along the Conn. River. 

S. C. Bartlett,, LL. D., the present President, was an alumnus of Dartmouth, as 
were also Thaddeus Stevens aud Gen. Sylvauus Thayer, " the Father of West Point." 

After leaving Norwich, the train crosses the Onipompanoosuc River, and 
stops at PomjMnoosuc, whence large quantities of copperas are shipped 
away, to be made into sulphuric acid. The mines are at Copperas Hill, 
10 M. N. W., and the copperas is separated from other elements by a 
long and difficult process, and precipitated in green crystals. Nearly 400 
tons a year are converted into vitriol in chemical Avorks near Boston, 
while a great quantity of the copperas is used as a mordant in dye- 
factories. 

Distant views of Moosilauke and Bald Mts. are obtained as the train 

approaches Thetford (two small inns). Thetford village is 1 M. W. of 

the station, and on the E. is the large farming town of Lijine, N. H., to 

which stages run 4 times daily. 

Daily stages run N. W^ to W. Fairlee (9 M.) and Vershire (15 M.) with its ex- 
tensive copper-mines, also to Chrhra, the shire-towu. Versliire had 1,054 inhabi- 
tants in 1S60, o:'whom 113 meu joined tlie Union army. Nearly 11 per cent of 
her population was at the front. 

Station JV. Thetford, whence much copper ore from Corinth is sent to 



168 Route U. NEW YOKK TO QUELEC. 

Baltimore (by water from Portsmouth) and smelted. Station, Fairlee 
and Orford, the former being a liilly town abounding in lakes, one of 
which is nearly 3 IM. long. Pickerel are found in these waters. Just 
across the river from Fairlee is the N. H. town of Orford (stage to Ehn 
House), with a beautifully located village v/hich has become a favorite 
summer-home for lovers of tranquillity and rural life. Mt. Cuba and Mt. 
Sunday are near the centre of the town, and there are several large ponds. 
Mt. Cuba, on the W., is 2,927 ft. high, and has a chain of 5 lakes on its E. 
side. Cube Falls and the perpendicular cliffs of gray granite on Saw- 
yer's Mt. are worthy of notice. 

Station, Bradford (Trotter House), a prosperous manufacturing village 
on Wait's Pdver. In the N, W. is Wright's Mt., where one Wright, who 
claimed to be a prophet, had a hermitage in a dismal rocky cleft, now 
called the Devil's Den. The town has a scientific association, an academy, 
a weekly newspaper, and a savings-bank. 

Stages run to Corinth, Topsham (13 M. N. W.), E. Orange (17 M.), and W. Top- 
sham ; aud to the N. II. farming town of Piermont, beyond the Conn. River. 

Stations, S. Neirbury and Newbury (small summer boarding-houses 
of Doe, Farnham, and Bailey). This beautiful village stands on a 
terrace above the rich Ox Bow intervales, where a great bend of llie 
river nearly insulates a tract of fertile alluvial meadow-land. Mt. 
PulnsJci is near Newbury, and coinnmmls a noble view, embraeitig the 
fruitful and carpet-like Ox Bow meadows, the vilhige of Haverhill, and 
the winding river, with Moosilauke in the S. E., and the Pemigewasset 
and Franconia Mts. in the E. ^ M, from the Hotel are the Newbury 
Sidjjhur Springs (l)ath-houses, &c. ), in a little glen near the verge of tlie 
intervale, and a charming twilight walk is that along the borders of these 
level meadows, with the sombre mountains beyond. 

This town was founded about 1764 by Gen. Bailey, of Newbiuy, Mass. During 
the Revolution a detachment of British soldiers came here to take Bailey, but a 
friend went over to the held wliere he was ploughing and droi^ped in the t'virrow a 
note saying, "The Pliilistiues be upon thee, Samson ! " On returning down the 
long furrow Baik'y saw the note, took the hint, and fled to securer regions. The 
meadows of Coos about Newbury were the home of a large tribe of Indians, who 
tilled the adjacent lands, caught salmon and trout in the rivers, and chased v/ild 
game through the mountains. These pleasant lands were abandoned m terror 
after Lovewell's battle in Pequawket. 

The beautiful scenery along the Passumpsic line changes to grandeur as 
the train runs N. Station, Wells River {Coosuck Uouse), where the 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal and White Mts. R. R. touches this line on 
its W. angle (20 M. to Littleton. See Route 30). 

The MontpeUer fC Wells-River E. R. runs thence N. W. 38 M. through a rugged 
and tliinly settled country to Mnntpelier, the caj)ital of the State. Stages 
now run to Jlycjate, 5 M. N. W. (Blue Mountain House), a Presbyterian town 
settled in 1774 hy a colony of farmers from tlie Scottish shires of Renfrew and 
Lanark. Blue Mt. is a high granite ridge in the N. W. The road fol- 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route U. IGO 

lows up Wells River to Groton (small inn). In the N. W. part of Groton is Long 
Pond, 4 M. long and 1 M. wide, 

which afibrds good facilities for boating and fishing. This pond is 1,100 ft. above 
tlie sea, and near it is the pretty Little Pond, 1 M. by J M. 

Beyond Wells River, the train stops at Mclndoe's Falls, with large 
lumber-mills, Siwdi Barnet , a Scotch Presbyterian town, settled in 1775. 
Stages run to Peacham. Soon after leaving Bamet, the line passes near 
tlie month of the Passitnqjsic River, M^here Rogers' Rangers, returning 
from tlieir raid on the St. Francis Indians, failed to find an expected depot 
of provisions. Many of the famishing men died there, while others made 
a cannibal feast on the flesh of a slain Indian. In his disastrous retreat 
from St. Francis to Charlestown, Rogers lost nearly half of his command, 
and it is said that 36 of his men died in 18 hours here on tlie Passumpsic 
meadows. 

Just beyond Barnet (famed for its butter) begin the 15-Mile Falls on 
the Conn, River. Stations, Norrisville and Passumpsic, with falls on the 
Passumpsic River, which here rolls between black, rocky banks. Station, 
St. Johnsbury {St. Johnsbary House, on the hill ; Avenue House, near 
the station), a busy town of nearly 6,000 inhabitants, with many neat 
villas and large manufactories. It was settled in 1786, and named in 
honor of St. John de Crevecceur, French Consul at New York, and a bene- 
factor ©f Vermont. The Court House of Caledonia County is a fine 
building, on the hill, directly in front of which is a * Soldiers' Monument, 
consisting of a statue of America (by Mead), on a pedestal inscribed with 
the names of 6 officers and 74 men from tliis town, who died in the Seces- 
sion War. Near the monument is the AtheTiceum, with 9,000 volumes in 
a good library building. There is also a reading-room with papers and 
magazines, and an art-gallery, containing 75 fine paintings, among 
which is Bierstadt's " Domes of the Yosemite." The St. Johnsbury 
Academy is a well-attended scliool, with handsome buildings ; and the 
villas of the Fairbankses are large and stately. The village has 8 chui'clies, 
2 banks, and 2 weekly newspapers. 

There are manufactures of mowing and thresliing machines and other things, 
but the reason of being for St. Johnsbury is the extensive scale factory of E. & T. 
Fairbanks & Co. Tlie v/orks of this company are in a glen on Sleeper's River, 
and occupy 10 acres of ground. 5 - 600 men are employed and .300 varieties of 
scales are made, from the most delicate letter-scales to those huge macliines which 
weigh loaded cars and canal-boats (500 tons capacity). In 1830, during the excite- 
ment about hemp culture, the Fairbanks brothers established a hemp-dressing 
factory, and Tliaddeus invented the ])latform scale. It was patented in America 
and England, and up to 1801 the company sold 96,658 portable scales, 8,872 hay 
and traeli scales, and 94,712 counter and even balances. Since 1861 the sales have 
been much greater, proportionally, and in 1869 the yearly sales were stated as 
50,000 small scales, and several hundred hay and platform scales. 125 men are 
engaged in the Fairbanks' service in other towns and cities ; wliile tlie v/orks con- 
sume 18 tons of iron daily, in tlirce cupola furnaces. The scales which have been 
made in large (juaiitities for Oriental States are curious, being marked with 
Cliinese and Turkish numerals, according to their peculiar systems of weiglits. 
The St. Johnsbury and Lake Champlain R. 11. here cro-sses the Passumpsic R. R. 



170 Route-U. WILLOUGHBY LAKE. 

The train runs N. by 67. Johnsbnry Ctntre. to Lijndon (Lyndon Ilouse; 
daily stages to S. Wbeelock, 5^ M. N. VV.) and Lyndonville {Union 
House; daily stages to Wheeloek, 5 M. N. W., and Sheffield, 7 M.), the 
headquarters of the rassiimpsic K. R. In this rich and fertile town are 
the Great Falls of the Passunip*ic. 

Station, W. Burke, before reaching which a fine view is afforded of 
the bold Burke Mt. Carriages may be taken hence for the celebrated 
* Willoughby Lake, 6 M. N. The road affords a continual view of the two 
.singular mountains between which the lake is situated. The Willoughby- 
Lake House charges $5-12 a week (bowling, livery, boats, steamboat, 
iishing; no hay -fever). This lake is one of the most remarkable on the 
continent, being situated between two immense mountains, whose bases 
meet far below its waters. The lake is 6 M. long, and in places 2 M. wide, 
while its depth is very great, and not yet known, a line of 100 fathoms 
having run out without finding bottom. The scenery here is wonderfully 
varied and sensational. 

A carriage road along the E. shore, or a boat on the quiet waters, gives 
opportunity to see the beaiities of the lake and the grandeur of its sur- 
rounding v/alls. The mountain on the W. shore is called Mt. Her, and 
is somev.diat more than 1,500 ft. above the water. The E. shore mountain 
is called Mt. Willoughby, Pisgah, or Annanance, in different hooks and 
maps. As Mi\ Eastman remarks, Annanance seems more appropriate, 
since that was the name of a brave chief of the St. Francis Indians who 
once lived here. A vast precipice of granite, 2 M. long and 600 ft. sheer 
down, runs along the side of Mount Annanance, while the long slope 
below is rocky and steep. The peak is 2,633 ft. above the lake, and 
3,800 ft, above the sea. From the hotel to the summit of Annanance 
it is a very difficult walk of about 2 M. A vast view over the Conn. 
valley is obtained from this point, extending to the Franconia and 
White Mts. on the S. E., and it is said that the hotels on Mt. Wash- 
ington may be seen with a strong glass. On the N. W. are Owl's 
Head (in Canada) and Jay Peak, from which the stately line of the Green 
Mts. runs S., with the peaks of Mansfield, Camel's Hump, and Killint;- 
ton (near Rutland) all visible. From the verge of the cliffs on the W. 
Mt. Hot is seen close at hand. Geologists think that the chasm between 
these mountains was caused by the rush of a northern cnri^eut during the 
drift period, which eat away the decomposed limestone between the two 
granite peaks. Very rare plants and flowers are found on Mt. Anna- 
nance, esi)ecially at the " Flower Garden," at the foot of the cliffs, 600 
ft. above the Devil's Den, on the lakeside road. The Silver Cascade 
and tlie Point of Rocks are found farther out on the same road. Trout 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route U. 171 

and mnscalonge abound in the cool crystal waters of the lake. ExcTirsions 
are made from the liotel to Burke Mt. (10 M. S.), Barton (11 M. W.), 
Plunket Falls (12 M.), and Newark ) 6 M. S. E.)^ famed for its production 
of sugar from vast forests of sugar-maj)les. 

Near the flag station at S. Barton the summit is passed, and the water- 
shed of the St. LaAvrence is entered. Jay Peak is seen in the N. W. Sta- 
tion, Barton (Crystal Lake House), a manufacturing village in a town 
named for its first proprietor, Gen, Barton. Crystal Lake (by which 
the track passes) is a pretty sheet of water containing about 2 square 
miles. About li M. distant on the E. is the Flume, where a Ijrook flows 
through a natural passage in the granite rock, 140 ft. long, 10 ft. wide, 
and 20 - 30 ft. deep. The granite walls are smooth aud perpendicular. 

In 1810, the people determmed to deepen Barton River by turning Long Pond 
(the source of the LamoilltO into it. They had barely completed a cha'.niel from 
Long Pond to the pond-reservoir of the Barton River, when its Avaters burst 
through with tremendous force, and swept down to Lake Memphremagog, wreck- 
ing evcrytliing in their path, and causing immense damage. The bed of Long 
Pond is now dry, and is called Runaway Pond. 

Barton to Willoughby Lake, 6 M. Fine trout-ponds near village. Daily stages to 
Glover, Albany, aud Craftsbury. 

Station, Barton Landing (Valley House), which was much resorted to 
bv smugglers in 1812-15. Stages run 4 M. W. to Jrasburgh (Irasbiirgh 
House, large and good), a beautiful rural village, and the shire-town of 
Orleans County. 

Stations, Coventry and Newport (*]Memphreniagog House, $3.00 a day, 
$10-17 a -week, 300 guests, a large, flrst -class hotel on the lake shore; 
Bellevue House; many families take summer-boarders). 

Lake Memphremagog. 

The village of Newport is at the upper (S.) end of this lake, and is 365 M. from 
New York, 230 M. from Boston, and 164 M. from Quebec. It is built upon 
Pickerel Point, and from the edge of the village rises Prospect Hill, whence 
fine lake views are gained, and' the Mts. Owl's Head, Elephantis, Orford, 
Jay Peak, and Annanance are seen. Other excursions from Newport are to 
Clyde River Falls (2 M.), Mt. Morrill (2 M.), Bear Mt. (7 M.), and Bolton Springs 
(in Canada, 1-t M.). Steamers leave every morning from the quay near the great 
hotel, for Magog, returning in the evening. 

The original Indian name of this Inke w-as Memphremagog, or Memi)lowbowque 
(names possibly used by different tribes), which is said to mean Beautibd Water. 
Some see in it a resemblance to Loch Lomond, others to Lake George, while still 
others call it the Geneva of Canada. The lake is 30 M. long ;i.nd 2-4 M. wide, 
ai'd two-thirds of it lies in Canada. The waters are cold and (dear, abounding in 
tr.tut and muscalonge, the shores are romantically uneven and rock-bound, and 
t;dl, wooded mountains nse on either hand. The voyage to Mago;^, at the N. end 
of the lake, nsnallv takes 3-4 hours, nearly 50 M. being traversed. By leaving 
Magog on the afternoon boat (about 4.30 P. M.), a fine sunset on the mountains 
may be seen. 

Tlie steamer passes out by Indian Point, on the E., and a distant view 
of Stanstead village is soon obtained, between the evergreen-covered 
islets kno-svn as the Twin Sisters (on the E. ). Soon after Province Island 



172 Routed. NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 

is passed, and the steamer crosses into Canada. The boundary is marked 
by clearings in the forests on either side. Next, on the E., is tlie small, 
cedar-covered Tea Table Island, and beyond it the Canadian village of 
CedcLTville. Bear Mt. looms up on the W. shore, and the scattered farms 
of the town of Potton, while Fitch's Bay stretches far in shore to the N. 
E. The round summit of Owl's Head is now approached on the W. 
Magoon's Point (on the E.) is near a large cavern, where the treasures of 
a cathedral are said to have been hidden. The legend is probably de- 
rived from the fact that Rogers' Rangers retreated down the E. shore of 
Lake Memphremagog, after sacking and destroying the church and village 
of the St. Francis Indians. Besides the rich plate of the church, they 
secured two golden candlesticks, and a silver image weighing 10 pounds. 
The candlesticks were hidden near the lake (no mention is made of the 
disposal of the other articles), and were found in 1816. The steamer 
stops at the Movntain Hoksp, 12 M. from Newport, in a sequestered posi- 
tion at the foot of Owl's Head, and near the best fishing-groimds on the 
lake. 

The mountain is ascended by a foot-path (in 2 hours) which passes through 
forests and fields, and by numerous curious roek-formations. Tlie summit is 
2,743 ft. above tlie lake, and commands a broad view, including the greater part 
of the lake and its islands. On the S. is Newport village and jiart oif the Clyde 
valley, with tiie nearer summits of Bear Mt. and Hawk Mt., also Jay Peak and 
l)art of the Missisquoi valley. In the W. are the tall foot-hills of the Green Mts., 
while Bronie Lake is seen in the N. W., and far beyond it the city of Montreal is 
visible on a clear day. Nearer, in the same direction, are the Hog's Back and 
Ele])hantis Mts. Orford Mt. looms at the head of the lalce on the N., and in the 
N. W. are the pretty lakes of Little Magog and Massawippi. In the E. are several 
villages in Staiistead and Derby. Mt. Annanance is seen in the S. E. over Wil- 
loughby Lake, and, far beyond, the dim blue peaks of tlie White Mts. rise on the 
lioi-izon-line. The contrast between the rugged country towards Lake Cliamplain 
and the vast plains to the N., traversed by the glittering rivers St. Lawrence and 
S^. Francis, is very great, and an element of rare beauty is added by the exten- 
Fivf- view over the lake below. The path is, by wheel-measurement, l.^ M. and 30 
rods long. 

^ M. from the Mountain House is Round Island, which resembles 
Dome Island, on Lake George, or Ellen's Isle, on Loch Katrine. Farther 
E. is Minnow Island, near which trout aljound. Skinner's Iskmd is also 
E. of the hotel, and has on its N. W. side a cavern in the rock, 30 ft. 
long, 10 ft. wide (at the entrance), and 12-14 ft. high. The legend is 
that a celebrated smuggler named Skinner (in 1812) always eluded the 
closest pursuit of the customs officers, by disappearing near this point. 
One night, after a long chase, the officers foimd his boat on this island, 
and turned it adrift on the lake. Some years afterward a fisherman, 
lying under the lee of the island to escajie a squall, discovered the cave, 
hidden under heavy foliage. 

" And what do you think the fisherman found? 
>'oithor a coldon nor a .■silver prize. 
But a skull with sockets where once were eyes ; 



NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 173 

Also some bones of arms and thighs. 

And ii vertebral column of giant size ; 

How they got there, he could n't devise. 

For he 'd only been used to commonplace gravei. 

And knew naught of " organic remains " in caves ; ~ 

On matters like tliose his wits were dull, 

So he dropped the subject as well as the skull. 

'T is needless to say 

In this later day, 
'T was the smugglers bones iu the cave that lay : 
All I' ve to add is — the bones in a grave 
"Were placed, and the cavern was called ' Skinner's Cave.' " 

N. of this point is Long Island, with palisades on its N. W. side, and 
an immense rcjcking-stone called Balance Rock on the S. shore. Near J/o(5- 
son's Island, still farther N., is the mansion of a wealthy Montreal gentle- 
man. On the W. shore, 1 M. above the hotel, are cliifs 700 It. high, and 
as the steamer goes N. the sharper outlines of Owl's Head become prom- 
inent. Mt. Elcphantis, or Sugar Loaf, is above Owl's Head on the W. 
shore, and is thought to resemble an elephant's head and back. Far up 
on the W. slope of Elephantis is a beaiitiful moimtain tarn, 2 M. long by 
\ M. wide, and abounding in trout. The steamer touches at Georgeville 
(Camperdown House), a pretty village on the E. shore, where many 
Canadians pass the summer. The lake is now crossed (3 M.) to Knoiol- 
ton's Landing (16 M. from Newport), at the moitth of Sergeant's Bay. 
This crossing has long been the main route to Montreal from the Eastern 
Townships (Stanstead County), as stages run from Knowlton's to tlie rail- 
road station at Waterloo (20 M. ). Tlie steamer crosses the mouth of the 
Bay, passes the rocky Gibraltar Point on the 1., and leaves the more 
mountainous part of the lake, heading towards Orford Mt., which is seen 
in the N. A comparatively narrow strait is passed, and then the lake 
widens into a broad expanse, at the end of which is the village of Magog" 
(Parks House), a small Canadian settlement, with tine trout-hshing in the 
rapids of Magog River. The latter stream Hows tli rough Little Magog 
Lake, and empties the Memphremagog waters into the St. Francis River, 
a noble tributary of the St. Lawrence. 5 M. from Magog (carriage-road 
to the summit) is Orford Mt., the highest peak in the Eastern Townships. 
Its view embraces Memphremagog and its mts. on the S., Sheiford Mt. 
on the W., much of the valley of the St. Francis on the N. E., and the 
waters of 18 lakes. A vast pine forest covers much of the country to the 
N. and W., and Orford Lake, at the base of the mt., has a weirdly dark 
and solitary appearance. Railroads run from Magog to Sherbrooke and 
Waterloo. 

The Montreal and Boston Air Line. 

A new and pleasant route between Boston and Montreal has been formed from 
the Boston. Lowell, and Nashua R. R. and the B. C. & M. R. R. (see pai,'es 188 - 199) 
to Wells River; the Fas,<umpsic R. R., thence to Newport (pages 166-172); and 
then, e by the Southeastern Railway 65 M. N. W. to W. rarnhani, whence it passes 
iu to Moutieal by St. John's. This hue runs through trains, with parlor-curs. 



1 74 Route 24. NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 

The train crosses an arm of tlie lake after leaving Newport, ivml enters 
the rich farming town of Derby. Station, N. Derby (Derl)y Line Hotel), 
soon after passing wliich the Anglo-Canadian frontier is crossed. The 
line now enters the Eastern Townships, of which the riverward parts 
were early settled by the French, while the forest-towns Avere occupied by 
pioneers from New England between 1790 and ISOO. 

The Canadian Hand-Book calls this "as beautiful a tract of country as perhaps 
any on the eontineut, both with regard to uiouiitaiu and lake scenery, beautiful 
rivers, and fertile valleys. The mountains, wooded generally from base to sum- 
ii]it, repose in majesty ; and as the mists, with which their sunnnits are not un- 
Ireciueri ily crowned, withdraw themselves in folds along tlieir sides, they reveal still 
more of the beautiful and sublime. Chasms, ravines, and iirecipices are tliere, 
ami among their scditudes sublimity reigns. Beautiful lakes lie scattered over 
the surface of the country, bordered here by gentle slopes, there by precipitous 
clilfs ; cultivated fields and wide-si3read pastures, with woods interspersed ; val- 
leys aud plains adorned with farmhouses, single or in gi'oups, and beautiful vil- 
lages." 

The first Canadian station is Sianstead Junction, whence a short branch 
line runs to Sianstead Plain (4 trains daily), a large and thriving village 
situated on fertile lowlands, 10 M. E. is Pinnacle Lake and Mountain, 
the latter being a remarkable precipitous peak which rises sheer from the 
lake. After passing some minor stations, the train reaches Mn-^smvipjn, a 
village in Hatley town, near which is tlie beautiful Lake Massawippi. Tliis 
lake is 9 M. long by 1-1-^ M. wide, and swarms with many kinds of fish, 
among which are muskallonge trout, I'ike, pickerel, bass, and mullet. 
Blackberry Mt. on the E. shore, abounds in blackberries durhig tlieir 
season. The train now follows the Massawi]>pi River for 16 M. to its 
confluence with the St. Francis, at Lcnnoxville (two inns). This is the 
seat of Bishops' College, an institute of high reputation, under the care 
of the Episcopal Churcli, with preparatory schools attached, and a staff of 
able professors. This college has been called " tlie Eton and the Oxford 
of Young Canada." Productive copper and lead mines are worked in the 
vicinity of Lcnnoxville. 

Station, Sherbrooke {Shei-hrooke House; Magog House), a manufactur- 
ing village prettily sitiiated at the confluence of the Magog and St. Fran- 
cis Rivers. There are long rapids in the St. Francis near the village, and 
other fine scenery in the vicinity. Sherbrooke is the metropolis of the 
Eastern Townships, and is the most important station between Montreal 
and Portland. It contains the Stanstead County buildings, which are 
well situated on a commanding site. 



At Sherbrooke the traveller changes cars, and proceeds by the Grand Tnuik 
Railway to Quebec (121 M.), or to Montreal (101 M.). See Route 40. 



WALTIIAM. Route 25. 175 



25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel and Troy. 

Via Fitchburg, Vt., and Mass., and Troy and Greenfield Railroads, through the 
Hoosac Tunnel to Nortii Adams, 143 M., wbere coniiection is made with the Troy 
and Boston, and Boston, Hoosae Tunnel and W'estera Railroads, for Troy, Albany, 
and Saratoga, making the shortest route from Boston, 

The train leaves the fine castellated granite station of the Fitchburg 
Railroad on Causeway St., near tiie Warren Bridge to Charles- 

town, and soon crosses the tracks of the Boston and Maine, Eastern, and 
Boston and Lowell Railroads, on their long trestles over Charles River, 
Cliarlestown Heights on the r. and the loiig hills of populous Boston on 
the 1. are in sight for a few minutes, then the train runs past the stations, 
Union Square, Somerville, Cambridge, Belmont, and Waverley. Near 
the latter station is the finest grove of oaks m New England (see Flagg's 
"Woods and By-ways"). 

Waltham {Central House ; Prospect House) comes next, and is an active 
town of about 12,000 inhabitants. Here, in 1814, was erected the first large 
cotton-mill in America, and extensive mills are still in operation here. 
The American Watch Company's works are the largest in the world en- 
gaged in making watches ; upwards of 1,500,000 of these timekeepers have 
been sold in America, their re^iutation being very high. Every part of 
these popular and justly-celebrated watches is made by machine-work, 
"while the works of Swiss watches are formed by hand. Tlie extensive 
buildings of this company are on the banks of the Charles River, 

At Waltliam, tlie track of the Watertown Branch rejoins the main line, after 
passing several petty stations between Waltham and its divergent point at Brick- 
yard Junction. Watertoiun is the most important of these points, while Mount 
Aiibiirn and Fresh Pond are also frequently visited by this route. 

N. P. Banks was boru at Waltham in 1816. His parents were factory-hands, 
and he himself was for some time a " bobbin boy." Ai)plying himself to study, 
journalism, law, and politics, he rose rapidly, and was Member of C(mgress in 
1S5.3 - 72 and 1865 - 7, Governor of Mass. 1858-61. During the Secession War he 
was a Maj.-Geu., and was defeated by Stonewall Jackson in the Shenandoah Valley, 
after which his army was only saved by its superior fleetness. While command- 
ing in Louisiana he took Opelousas and Alexandria, inflicting severe losses on the 
enemy, and then, after a long siege, the Mississippi River fortress of Port Hudson 
was surrendered to his army. In 1864 he advanced far up the Red River, but 
after several sharp, sudden attacks by the Confederate General Dick Taylor, he 
was forced to make a rapid and disastrous retreat with his miwieldy expeditionary 
force. In the Presidential contest of 1872, he joined the Liberal party, and conse- 
quently failed to secure a re-election to Congress in that year. 

After leaving Waltham, Prospect Hill is seen on the r,, from whose sum- 
mit (480 ft. high) a fine view is obtained of Boston and its westei-n suburbs. 
The line soon passes into the valley of Stony Brook, and beyond the 
station of that name, stops at Weston, 1 ]\L N. from the bright upland 
village of Weston. Lincoln is 1^ M. S. W. of the village in the centre of 
the town of Lincoln, near which are two large ponds well stocked with 



176 Route 25. BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. 

fish. The train soon gains the W. border of the forest-surrouucled Walden 
Pond, on whose banks lived Thoreau (see page 28). 

At Concord Junction the new. State Prison is seen, on the right, and 
then the train passes the stations, S. Acton, W. Acton, and Littleton 
(the Indian Nashoba). From S. Acton a branch road runs to Marlboro' 
(13 M. ), crossing tlie Pompascitticutt district of the Indians, and stopping 
at Maynard, Rockbottom, and Hudson. 

Beyond Littleton is Ayer Junction {Adams House; American), a 
flourishing village and railroad centre. 

The Stony Brook Railroad runs to Lowell (13 M.) down the valley of the Stony 
Brook, passing through the towns of Groton, Westford, and Chelmsford. 'Westford 
has a quiet village situated on far-viewing heights. 

ThePeterboro and Shirley Branch runs to Grtenville or Mason Village (N. H.), 
passing through the towns of Groton, Townsend, and Mason. Towusend Harbor 
is a village on the Scpumicook River, and Centre & W. Townsend are small villages 
of no importance. Mason Village was set off under the name of Greenville in 
July, 1872, amid general .jubilations and a salute of 40 guns. It is a manufactur- 
ing place, situated on the Souhegan River, which has here a fall of 80 ft. in a 
distance of 80 rods. 

The Worcester aud Nashua Railroad crosses the present route at Ayer 
Junction. 

After leaving Ayer Junction, the Fitchburg Railroad crosses the towns 
of Shirley, Lunenburg, and Leominster, with occasional views of Wachusett 
to the 1. as the train approaches Fitchburg. Fitcllburg ( .1 merican House ; 
Rollstone) is a small city (incorporated 1S7"2) of about 13,000 inhabit- 
ants. It was known in the colonial days as Turkey Hills, from the great 
number of wild turkeys found here. It is a busy, plain, wide-awake place, 
wliich has quadrupled its population within 28 years by its encourage- 
mc]it of manufactures and by its being a centre of railroads. The city is 
built along the Nashua River, wliich affords a fine water-power. Many 
.small factories are ranged along this stream, which is the life of Fitchburg. 
600 men are engaged in the manufacture of machinery and agricultural 
tools; 300 men are in the chair-making business ; 3 paper-mills with 250 
Lands, turn out $1,000,000 worth of goods yearly; while two or three 
cotton-mills are well worked and busy. 

The views from Rollstone Hill (the seat of large quarries) and Pearl Hill 
are of interest. In memory of her soldiers who fell in the Secession War, 
the city has erected a fine monument from designs by Milmore. It repre- 
sents the Goddess of Liberty, a soldier, and a sailor, all of heroic size, and 
cast in bronze at Chicopee, in this State. These statues stand on a high, 
inscribed pedestal. 

In 1793, Fitchburg maintained a semi-weekly stage to Boston. At present it 
has 7 trains a day running over 50 M. of track to Boston, by the Fitchburg Rail- 
road, aud 4 trains daily to Boston byway of S. Framiiigham (58 M.). The Cheshire 
R. R. runs hence N. W. to Keene and Bellows Falls (see Route 26) : the Vt. aud 
Mass. runs W. to Hoosac Tunnel ; and the Worcester and Fitchburg R. R. rims S. 
to Worcestei'. 



BOSTON TO THE H003AC TUNXEL. Route 26. 177 

Beyond Fitch"burg and W. Fitchbnrg the line soon reaches Wacliusett, 
whence stages run 6 ^I. S. to Mt. Wachusett (see page 412;. Westminster 
is 3 M. by stage from Westminster Centre (Westminster House), a lofty 
hamlet near Me =sting- House Pond, with a library and two churches. Mt. 
Wachusett is 5 M. S. E. ; and there are broad views from Prospect Hill. 
Tliis toAvn has 1,712 inhabitants, and 225 farms. It was granted to" the 
Narragansett veterans, and settled in 1737, under guard of ten forts. 

At Aslibtirnl\am the Cheshire R. R. diverges to the N. W. : and a sliort branch 
runs 3 M. N. E. to Ashhuriiliam {Central Hotel), a iiretty liighland luunlet near 
Nankeau- Pond nud Jirovvn Hill, with -J churches and several factories. 5-6 M. 
N. is Mt. 'Watatic (1,S47 ft. high), vhich gives an immense view, including 
Wachusett, Muuadiiocn, the V/hite Mts., and hundreds of lal<es and villages. 

The train runs S. among bold hills to Gardner, where it crosses the 
Boston, Barre & Gardner R. R. ; and at Baldioinsville it crosses the 
Ware-River R. R. Occasional views of Mt. ]Monadnock are gained on 
the N. From Royalstoii stages run N, W. 4 M. to Eoyalston Centre 
(Moore's Ho*el), a pleasant hill-village in a farming town of 1,300 inhab- 
itants. The line now follows Miller's River S. W. through the hills to the 
bright village of Athol, wliere it meets the Springfield, Athol & North- 
eastern R. R. (Route 76). Station, Orange (Putnam House), a prosper- 
ous and pretty village in a hill-girt glen, in a town of 2,497 inhabitants, 
with .5 churches and a soldiers' monument. To the N. E., over the handet 
of N. Orange, are the bluff Tully Mts. Stages run to WarwicTc. 

Station, Wendell, whence daily stages run 4J M. S. W. to JVendell Centre, on a 
ridge in a farming town of .500 inliabitnnts ; also S^ M. S. W. to Lock's I'Ul'ige, 
iiea^r which are the Mt. Mineral Springs (suiin"'ner hotel), highly effitdeut in 
diseases of the lilood and nerves ; also .M. N. to jr«™;(cA- (Warwick House), ;i 
pleasant old hill-town with ?. churches, a li1)rary, and a soldiers' monument (to 27 
dead). Over it, on the N. W., is Mt. Grace (1.62S ft. high), which connaauds a 
broad and splendid view. It was nanu'd for Grace Rowlaudsou, who was buried 
here, while the Indians were leading the Lancaster people into captivity, in 1676. 

Beyond Ervinrj (Erving House), the train crosses Miller's River thrice; 
and intersects the New-London N. R. R. Lake Pleasant {Lake-Pleasant 
House) is a new summer-resort, patronized by Spiritualists, with steam- 
boat, bath-houses, military bands, 200 cottages, &c. Beyond Monta(jue, 
the train crosses the Conn, and Deerlield Rivers, amid romantic scenery. 

Greenfield {Mansion House, American House) is a beautiful village 
situated on broad intervales near Green River, and not far from the union 
of the Deerfield and Connecticut Rivers. It bears a pleasing air of rural 
simplicity, and is a favorite summer-resort on accotmt of its attractive 
environs. Fronting the public Siptare is a handsome sandstone church, 
the Town Hall, Post Office, and Court House. The soldiers' monument 
occupies the centre of the Scpiare. 

The John Russell CrUlery Co. is at Turner's Falls (branch R. R.). Here 5 - 600 
men are employed in the manufacture of table-cutlery, which is sujierior to that 
of Sheffield. The works turn out aniuially aljout 300,000 dozen talile-knivcs, and 
100,000 dozen of miscellaneous cutlery, using up 500 tons of steel; ir.i) tons of 
cocoa and granadilla wood ; 30 tons of ro.iewood ; 50 tons of ebony (from Mada- 

8* L 



178 Route 25. BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. 

gasear) ; 20 tons of elephunt's tusks ; 25 tons of emery (Irnni Smyrna) ; 200 tons 
of grindstones (Nova Scotia) ; lo tons ot brass wire: 2,li00 tons of coal; 25,000 
bushels of charcoal : and \\ tons of wax. Tlie admirable and ingenious mechan- 
ism used in these works is worthy of note. There are also manufactures of 
woollen goods, carpenters' tools, &c., in the town. 

The Bear's Den is a dark ravine with a small cave, a short distance S. 
E. 'of tlie village, and at the S. end of Rocky Mt. The Poet's Seat is on 
Rocky Mt., and commands a pleasing view, embracing the villages of 
Greenfield and Deerfield, the fair intervales of the tvro rivers, and a great 
circle of hills surrounding all. Arthur'' s S-"at is a loftj- hill S. W. of the 
village, commanding a view of the villages and rich intervales of Deerfield 
and Greenfield. 

Deerfield (see Route 24) is about 3 M. S. of Greenfield. The Coleraine 
and Shelburne Gorges are mucli visited, and in Leyden there is a re- 
markable water- v/orn cut in the slate-rock, 10 -15 ft. wide, and 30-50 
ft. deep, known as the Leyden Gorge. Pretty cascades are found near 
this place, and formidable hills tower over it. The Coleraine Gorge is a 
deep and roiuautic defile cut by tlie waters of the Green River. The 
road lo the S., over tlie level meadows of the Deerfield River, 
and through the ancient village of Deerfield, is a popular and pleasant 
diive. 

4-5 M. N. E. of Greenfield are Turner's Falls. At daybreak, on a May morning 
of lG7(i, Ciiyt. Turner and ISO coloni;J soldiers, after a long forced march by 
night, attacl\ed a jjowcrfid foree of King Pliilip's insurgent Indians, who were 
encamping here and rioting on the sjioils of the captured English towns. Turner 
suri'aised the enemy .sleeping in their wigwams, and in the ensuing panic 140 of 
them .^-.prang into tlieir canoes, and were carried over the P^alls and lost. 100 
were shot or cut to pieces on the shore, and then Turner, having lost but one 
man, marched olf. But the dispersed Indians rallied in swarms and iunig on the 
line of retreat, and a rumor s]iread through the raidvs of tlie colonials that King 
Philip and 1,CC0 men had reinforced the enemy. Tlie connnand now brolco \i\) in 
panic, and C'apt. Turner and 38 men Avere killed, besides many wounded and 
stragglers who were cut off. The Rev. Hope Atherton, who M-as jn-esent in full 
canonicals, was made prisoner, but the Indians were struck with such awe at his 
presence that they speedily let him go. Cajit. Holyoke led the renniant of the 
force back to Hatfield. After thisjDlow, says the old historian, "the enemy went 
down the wind apace." Many years later the tovm of Bei'nardston was granted 
to the veterans of the "Falls Fight." 

In 1792, a dam and canal (3 M. long) were built here, to aid m the navigation of 
the river. In 1S66, the Turner's Falls Co. bouglit TOO acres near tlie Falls, laid 
out a city, and built a curved dam 1,000 ft. long. The fall is 3G ft., and a water- 
power equal to 10,000 horse-power has Ijeen de\<ploped by two canals. Several 
manufactories have already been started here, anil proiihccies are heard of a sec- 
ond Lowell. " During high water the roar of Turner's P'alls is heard from six to 
ten miles." Dr. Hitchcock calls this Fall a miniature Niagara. "They arc by 
far the n)ost interesting waterfalls in this State, and I think I may safely say in 
New England. " 

Daily stages run N. E. from Greenfield 3^ M. to Factory Village, opposite Tur- 
ner's Fall-i ; aad t'.^ J[. to HU!. a suuiU higidand hamlet near the Couuecticut 
River. .\iso !0 M. N. (^tri-\vco',.ly) to Lcydtn., ui a laud of mountains and gorges. 
Also daily N. W. by cireeulicld Mt. to /i'. Siwlbunie ((3 M.) aud Coleraine (10 M. ; 
Gaines liotel), a lulty sheep-raising and dairy town. Stages run theuce W. (J^-12 
M. to Heath and Itoive, aud N. W. 12 M. to WkUtiuykani, Vt. 

After leaving Greenfield the railroad closely follows the Deerfield 



BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. Route 25. 1 78 a. 

River, running far S. to flank Arthur's seat, which looms up on the r., 
while the Deerfieid Hills and Pocomtuck Rock are across the valley, to 
the 1. Rising on higher grades noble views are given to the 1., including 
the peaceful valley, the dai'k mountain-walls, and the white hamlet of 
Deerfieid, about 1 M. from W. Deerfieid. The track soon enters and long 
traverses the remarkable Deerfieid Gorge, a picturesque defile whereof 
Dr. Hitchcock said : " It is so narrow that it is difficult, even on foot, to 
find a passage, though full of romantic and sublime objects to the man 
who has strength and courage to pass through it." At BardivelVs Ferry 
the river is crossed on a costly bridge, and the old route of the railroad, 
narrow and sinuous, is seen. Stages run 3 M. N. to Shelbnrne ; and 4 M. 
S. to Comoay (Conwa}' House), an upland hamlet in a rugged farming 
town of 1,400 inhabitants. The line now runs N. W. up the Gorge, and 
soon reaches Shelburne Falls iShclburnr- Falls House), a prosperous vil- 
lage with over 1,200 inhabitants, 3 churches, a library, bank, high-school, 
and soldiers' monument. Locks, cutlery, gimlets, and bits are made 
here ; and the surrounding town raises sheep and maple-sugar. 

"Here the river, in a distance of a few hundred j'aids, makes a descent of 
about 150 ft. over a prodigious bed of rock. The river roars through a channel 
which it has worn in the stone, leaping in two or three distinct falls, ;ind rushes 
downward, as from flight to flight of a broken and irregular staircase ; the rocks 
seem to have been hewn away, as when mortals make a road." (H.^wthorne.) 
Stages run daily from yiielburne Falls N. to Co/eraiHc (7 M.), and Whittinghmii, 
Vt. (19 M.) ; also S. to Ashfield, a mountain town which produces sheep, tobacco, 
and wooden-wai-e. The next town on the S. is Goshen (Highland House), which 
has a mountain 1,700 ft. high. 

The train passes through beautiful scenery beyond Shelburne Falls, 
with the dashing Deerfieid River alongside, winding gracefully through 
the hills. Bald Mt. is passed on the r., and the train stops at BucMand, 
whose village is snugly hidden away in a romantic glen, 2 M. S. (Tay- 
lor's Hotel). This sequestered plnce was the birthplace (in 1797) of 
Mary Lyon, the celebrated and devout teacher, who founded the Mount- 
Holyoke Seminary. The pretty hamlet of E. Charlemont is seen on the 
r., across the river, 2 M. N. of which is the massive Pocomtuck Mt., 
1,888 ft. high. The train next reaches Centre Charlemont (Dalrymple 
House), a bright village between Bald Mt. on the N. E. and Mt. Peak on 
the S. W., the scene of the story, " An Earnest Trifier." 

This town has about 1,000 inhabitants and 3 churches, and produces sheep, 
maple-sugar, hay, and tobacco. It was a strongly fortified frontier-post during 
the earlier i«art of the ISth century, and was attacked by the savages. 5 M. 8. 
T/. is W. Hawley, in a rugged and )>icturesque inount;iin-town which produces 
maple-sugar and v.-ood. Tliis was the birtiiplace of Jonas King, the famous 
missionary to Athens. To the X. E. is the village of He(Uh, Avith '2 churches, sit- 
uated on a high ridge, and commanding a broad view over the wilderness of hills. 
Fort Shirley was built here in 1744, to protect the border-settlements. 

The line crosses and recrosses the river, among savage and shaggy hills, 
and reaches Zoar, whence daily stages run N. E. up the Pelham-Brook 



178 6. Route 26. IIOOSAC TUNNEL TO THOY. 

valley (near the ruins of tlie ancient Fort Pelliani) to Rmre, a lofty and 
picturesque farming town on tlie Vermont frontier. In its N. part Jll- 
svns Hill attains the heif^dit of 2,109 ft. Sweeping around through a 
wild and desolate region, the line soon reaches the Hoosac-Tunnel sta- 
tion, whence the old stage-road ascends the mountain. Tlie costly cut- 
stone facade at the W. end of the tunnel is approached, and the train 
advances into the intense darkness under the Hoosac Mt. (see page 155). 
Soon after emerging on the W. side the bright town of N. Adams appears, 
overlooked by tlie massive i»eaks of the Greylock chain. 

N. Adams and Williamstown, see pages 154-157. Beyond N. 
Adams the train runs down the Hoosac Valley, near the river, with bold 
mountains on either side. Blackinton is a small factory-village, as is 
also Chadbourneville, which stands close to the Williamstown station 
(whence the college is I2 M. distant, on the 1.). Greylock Hall is next 
seen, on the r., near Dome ]\It. ; and the Tine swings to the N. W. around 
Clarksburg Mt., with the massive Berlin Mt. on the 1., and enters the 
State of Vermont.. Poional station is 2| M. S. of Pownal Centre 
(Union Hotel). The line now bends around the Petersbuigh Mt., on the 
1., and runs on to X. Poicnal (Eldred's Hotel), in an old mountahi-town 
which was early settled by the Dutch, and in 1762 by the aggressive 
New-Englanders. Mt. Anthony is seen on ther., miles away. 

At Petersburgh the Harlem Extension 11. R. crosses the present route ; 
and the train then runs through the long manufacturing district of Hcos- 
ick and Hoosick Falls, situated on the valual)le water-power of the river. 
In this town, near the Walloomsack River, .the Vermonters defeated the 
Hessian army in 1777 (see page 18G). 

At Hoosick Junction a branch line diverges to Bennington, Vt., 65 M. E. Eagle 
Bridge (Da?/o)i //ci(6g) is in the midst of jileasant scenery, inid here a biaiieh 
railroad diverges to Rutland. At Johnsonville another branch diverges, ruiniiiig 
15 M. N. across (Cambridge and Easton to Greenwich, a prosperous factory-village 
on the Batten Kill. 

Beyond the iiiaiiufacturing town of SchaiiJiticoke (3,125 inhabitants), the line 
leaves the Hoosick Valley and crosses the water-shed to the S. W. Noble views 
over the Hudson Valley are o1)tair.ed, with the Kayadorosseras Mts. on the N. W. 
and the blue Hel<lerbergs on tlie H. W. Laiigiuglmrg (.-l?/H'r(C(((( //o««) is a 
nianufactiu-ing town of G, 37*2 inhabitants, wiiere oilchiths, brushes, and many 
other articles are made. Just acm.ss the Hudson is ll'ater/oni, also occupied by 
factories. 

The train next runs dow^n through a populous district, traverses the 
ragged suburbs, and enters the city of Troy (see page 350). 

The Boston, Hoosac-Tunnel, and Western Railway runs from North 
Adams over substantially the same route as the Troy and Boston line, as 
far as Eagle Bridge, making connections at Petersburg Junction with the 
Lebanon-Springs R. R.; at Hoosac Junction with the line from Albany 
and Troy to Bennington and Rutland; and at Eagle Bridge with the route 
from Troy to Castleton and Rutland. From Saratoga Junction a branch 
runs to Saratoga Springs direct, by way of Stillwater and Saratoga Lake. 



MONADNOCK MT. Route 2G. 179 

At Mechanicsville the route crosses the D. and H. Canal Co. R. R, from 
Albany to Saratoga; and at Rotterdam Junction it meets the New York, 
West Shore, and Buffalo K. R. for the West. 



26. Boston to Burlington and Montreal. 

The train leaves the Fitchbur*^ station, on Causeway Street, Boston. 
Boston to Fitchburg, see Koute 25. The cars pass on to the rails of the 
Clieshire R. R. at Fitchburg, and run by the stations of W. Fitchburg^ 
Wtstminsier, S. and N. Askburnham, and Winchendon (see page 413). 

Fitchburg to Peterboro. 

From Winchendon the Monadnock R. R. runs N". 17 M, to Peterboro, 
N IL, passing across the lake-studded town of Rindge, the birthplace of 
Edward Payson, D. D., and Marshall P. Wilder. Station, Jaffrey, in the 
town of the same name, which has an ancient church (now secularized) 
whose frame was raised on the day of the battle of Bunker Hill (1775). 
The workmen claimed to have heard the cannonading. In the N. W. 
part of Jaffrey is Monadnock Mountain, with its high and rugged top 
rising 3,186 ft. above the sea. (Stage from Troy daily, to the Mountain 
House, % 1.50 a day; $ 9 a week, — round-trip tickets from Boston to Moun- 
tain House and return, $4.50, — a well-kept hotel, whence steep path to the 
summit, 1 M.) An extensive view is enjoyed from the summit, embracing 
Mts. Lafa^-ette, Washington, Moosilauke, Kiarsarge, Ossipee, Belknap, 
Watatic, Wachusett, the Berkshire Hills, and the Green Mts. (see page 
413). Troy is on the Cheshire R. R. Peterboro (see page 413). 



The train on the main line, after leaving Winchendon, passes State 
Line, and enters New Hampshire, stopping at FitzioilUam {Monadnock- 
Mt. House; Cheshire House), a picturesque hill-town with many ponds, 
named in 1773 for the Earl of Fitzwilliam. Its present industry is mainly 
centred on quarrying granite. Stations, Troy (Monadnock House), a 
thinly settled upland town, with a stage-line in summer to Monadnock 
Mt.; Marlboro (Marlboro House), a rugged and unproductive town; and 
Keene {Cheshire House ; Eagle; City). Keene is a pleasant city in the 
alluvial valley of the Ashuelot River, with 7,000 inhabitants, 8 churches, 
2 newspapers, 6 banks, the Cheshire-County buildings, a high-school, a 
public library, and a museum. The broad streets are shaded with trees, 
and on Central Square (adorned by a soldiers' monument) are numerous 
stores, which are prospered by a large country trade. The manufactures 



180 Route 26. LA.KE SPOFFORD. 

of the city are valued at nearly $ 3,000,000 a year, including leather, furni- 
ture, flannel, sash and blinds, &c. R. R. to Manchester. 

Near S. Keene the R. R. passes over a fine granite viaduct 75 ft. wide 
and 45 ft. high. The Beaver-Brook Falls are about 2 M. N. of the Square, 
and are much visited. The brook falls over a stair-like succession of 
ledges 40 ft. into a deep basin which is a haunt of large trout. 

" Keene is a proud little spot," which was settled undt-r the name of Upper Ashue- 
lot (" collection of tuauy waters "), about 1735. In 174G its fort was attacked by a 
large Indian force, and the villagers who were outside were cut off by the enemy. 
A reiuforccment from Swanzey drove off the assnilants. In 1753 the town was named 
in honor of Sir Benjamin Keene, a friend of Governor Wentworth, and at that time 
P-ritish minister to Spain. Tt was among the first to resist the British aggressions 
on the liberties of New England. 

Stages run to Chesterfield , which has a lovely lake 8 M. in circumference : to 
Surry and Gil sum; to Sullivan and Marlow ; to Stoddard^ Iloxbury, and 
Nelson. 

The Ashuelot R. R. runs S. W. to S. Vernon. (See page 102.) 

Lake Spofford {Prosj^ect House), 10 M. from Keene (stages from Boston 
trains), is 2-3 M. around, with crystalline waters on a white sandy bot- 
tom. It has a pretty island of 6 acres, much used by picnics. Visitors 
come here from all parts of the Union in summer. A steamer, sail-boats, 
and row-boats ply on the lake, in whose waters black bass and pike are 
found. 

The hotel commands charniing views; and Prospect Hill gives a pros- 
pect of the Green Mts., Monadnock, Ascutney, &c. Park Hill, the Ravine, 
Echo Cove, and Picnic Point, are often visited. Cliesterfield Centre 
(Chesterjield House), is an embowered village 1-2 M. from the lake. 
Brattleboro is 7 M. S. W. (see also page 103). 



Passing out of Keene, the Burlington train runs W. and N. 9 M. through 
a thinly settled country, ascending the long hills toward the Connecticut 
River. Then comes E. Westmoreland, whence daily stages run 3^ M. 
S. W. to Westmoreland (Bennett House), the chief village in a rich and 
prosperous farming town, which has many summer-visitors. It was set- 
tled in 1741, and suffered from several Indian forays. From Westmore- 
land Depot daily stages run 2h M. S. to the hamlet of Park Hill. 

The train now runs down on the fertile intervales of the Connecticut, 
and soon readies Walpole ( Wentworth House ; summer boarding-houses 
of Crowell & Richardson, Mrs. J. B. Dinsmore, and others), the chief vil- 
lage in a charming river-town of 2,000 inhabitants, abounding in corn, 
tobacco, and wool, and agreeably placed amid rugged Tyrolese scenery. 

Walpole was settled in 1749-52 by .Tohn Kilburn and Col. Bellows. A strong fort 
was erected near Cold River, and iu 1755 the garrison of Kilburn was attiicked 



BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. Route 26. 181 

"by 400 Frenchmen and Indians. Prom noon till sunset the battle was carried on, 
the little liaudful of heroes within keeping up an im-essant fire. The women 
loaded the guns, and run tlie bullets, and when ammuuition began to fail, picked 
up the Indian shot wliicli had entered the house and melted them over for their 
husbands' guns. Several attacks on the heavy outer doors were met by deadly 
volleys, and the enemy finally grew discouraged and retired to the N. It is 
thought that the valley towns were saved by this brave defence. 

Henry W. Bellows, D. D., the great-grandson of Col. Bellows, was bom at 
Walpole in 1814. He has been pastor of All Souls' Churcli (New York) for 35 
yeai'S, and is one of the foremost divines of the Unitarian Cliurch. He is an 
elO(pient and powerful orator, and is a leader in social reforms and ijhilauthropic 
movements. 

Walpole is a pleasant village near the foot of Mt. Kilbiim, and on the 
verge of broad intervales. It has wide streets lined with trees, a neat 
Common, and several boarding-houses for summer guests, with whom this 
is a favorite resort. Ravine Falls, Blanchard Falls, and the Abenaquis 
Spring are near the village, while Derry Hill commands an extensive 
view, including the Green Mts., Ascutney, Greyiock, Monadnock, and the 
valley of the Connecticut. 

The line now crosses the river, and stops at Bellows Falls (seepage 164), 
where Route 29 crosses the present route. (Restaurant in the station. ) 
Beyond Bellows Falls the Hue runs along Williams River valley, and soon 
begins the ascent, of the E. slope of the Green Mts. Stations, Rocking- 
hayn, Barionsville, Chester (Central Hotel). From the latter station 
stages run to Windham, 10 M. S. W. ; Londonderry (Green Mt. House), 
15 M. S. W. ; Weston, 12 M. W. ; and Andover, 6 M. W. 

Station, Gassetts, from which stages run to Baltimore (3 M. )and to 
Springfield (7M.), a village at Black River Falls. Stations, Cavendish, 
and Proctorsville (Eagle Hotel), a neat village Avith two churches and a 
bank. There are fine cascades on Black River (near Cavendish), and 1 M. 
N. of the village is a valuable quarry of serpentine marble which is equal 
to the best African stone, and is largely used for decorative purposes 
in Boston and New York. 

Station, Ludhno (Ludlow House), where the line passes over the Hog- 
back, which is thought to have been an island in some primeval lake, long 
since drained by the break-down of the eastern sei'pentine ridge. Daily 
stage to Plymouth. The train now ascends heavy grades by Healdville 
to Summit, the highest point on the line, beyond which the train starts on 
ailown grade which includes 1,000 ft. of descent in 18 M. Stations, Mt. 
Holly, F. Wallingford, and Cutting sville (small inn), which is near 
Shrewsbury Peak, a tree-covered mt. 4,086 ft. high. Stations, Clarendon, 
N. Clarendon, and Rutland (* Bates House, 175 rooms, and Bardwell 
House, near station; each $2.50 per day), a finely situated and prosperous 
town of 12,000 inhabitants, with a large country- trade, marble-works, and 
the Howe Scale Works. There are some fine commercial buildings, others 
pertaining to the town, several churches, and an Opera House. St. Peter's 



182 Route 26. BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 

Catholic Church is a fine new hnilding of stone, in the English Gothic 
style, while the Episcopal Church is a solid and massive stone structure. 
Near the twin spires wliich are seen on tlie hill is the handsome Court 
House of Rutland County, opposite Avliich is a neat Government build- 
ing. The town has 2 daily and 2 weekly papers, 8 churches, 3 banks, 
and numerous manufactories, prominent among which are the marble- 
works. The principal quarries and sawing-mills are at W. Rutland, 
whence immense quantities of white marble are shipped to all parts of 
America and Europe. It sells at the quarries for a higher price than does 
Italian marble delivered in Nev/ York. Large gangs of saws (without 
teeth, and ciitting by means of sand poured in from above) are constantly 
running, to separate the marble into slabs. 

Rutland was settled about 1770, and fortified in 1775 as a station on the great 
northern military road. In 1777, St. Clair's routed army retreated through the 
town. 

Numerous pleasant excursions may be made from Rutland. Claren- 
don Springs are about 7 M. distant (stages connect with trains at W, 
Rutland station). These springs are of great efficacy, "containing in one 
gallon, or 235 inches, 46 cubic inches of carbonic acid gas, 9.63 cubic 
inches of nitrogen gas, 3 grains of carbonate of lime, and traces of other 
alkalies. " In a sequestered location near the springs is a large hotel, which 
has been a favorite resort for many years (75 guests; $2.50 a day, $10 a 
weeli). The drives in this vicinity are very pleasant. 

Kiliington Peak {KiUington Jlouse, 3 3 a day, $ 10-15 a week) is 9 M. 
E. of Rutland (daily stages; $2 for round trip). The road traverses the 
loft}' and sterile town of Mendon. From the peak (•1,380 ft. high) a niag- 
nilicent *view is gained over S. Vermont, Lake Champlain, Ascutney, 
Mansfield, the White Mts., and the nearer Pico and Shrewsbury, besides 
scores of white villages and azure lakes. The hotel was opened in 1879, 
and is visited by thousands of guests, from all parts of the Union. It is 
3 M. by an easy road from the base, and a flight of stone steps leads to 
the rocky summit, 300 ft. above. This locality is a point of total exemp- 
tion from hay-fever and malaria; and the pure waters of two adjacent 
springs are said to relieve dyspepsia and rheumatism. 

At Sutherland Falls, 6 M. N. of Rutland, was one of the prettiest water- 
falls in Vermont, now ruined by marble quarries. 

After leaving Rutland, the main line runs N. by Sutherland Falls to 
Pittsford. The village (Otter Creek House) is prettily situated, | M. E. 
of the station, near fertile intervales on Otter Creek. There are marble 
quarries in the vicinity. Station, Brandon {Brandon House, Douglass 
House), a prosperous manufacturing village on the Neshobe River, with 
3,571 inhabitants, 5 churches, and 2 banks. In this and the village of 
Forestdale are 4 mineral paint companies, producing large quantities of 
paint from kaolin, which is mined in the vicinity. There are also marble 



BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. Route 26. 183 

quarries, producing common and fine statuary marble and lime. Vast 
quantities of bog iron ore are found, wliicli is easily melted, and yields 45 
per cent of soft gray iron, adapted for cannon, car-wliecls, and other cast- 
ings requiring great strength. 200 tons of manganese are sent hence to 
market, principally to Europe. In view of this mineral wealth, and also 
of the rich crops on the intervales and the abundant timber on the hills, 
Sir Charles Lyell said of Brandon, ''I have yet to see, either in Europe 
or America, a sfjot containing such a variety of unique and valuable sub- 
stances placed by nature in juxtaposition." 

Two curious caves are in the limestone ledges 1 J M. E. of the 
village. 

Stephen A. Douglas was born at Brandon, April 23, 1813. He became a lawyer 
in the State of Illinois, and arose rapidly t<> higli honors. He was a Congressman, 
184.3-7, and from 1847 until his death hi 18U1 he was a U. S. Senator. He was 
candidate of the Democratic party Tor the Presidency in ISoO, and was defeated, 
though receiving a large pojuilar vote. He was the author of the " Popular 
Sovereignty " doctrine (that tlie people of the Territories shoiUd decide as to the 
admission of negro slavery, without tlie interference of Congress). He favoi'ed 
the peaceable annexation of Texas and Cuba, was actively conservative in the 
slaveiy question, and supjiorted tlie Government against the rebellion of the 
Southern States. 

Stages run from Brandon to Siulhnry, 8 M. W., and to Lal:e Dnnmore, 9 M. N. 

From Leicester Junction a braii'/h i-.i'lroad raiis V/. am'oss the fn^ming towns of 
Whiting, Shoreham, and Orwell to Ticoiitleroga (17 M), Crdvii Point, and 
Port Henry (see Route 53). This road ero.sses Lai^e Champlain on a long bridge 
near Fort Ticonderoga. 

Station, Sfdisbury, 3-4 M. W. of which is the beautiful Lake Dun- 
more, which is about 5 M. long and is environed by hills. Its clear waters 
are 60 ft. deep, and abound in fish. Moosalamoo Peak towers on its 
slioi-e to a height of nearly 2,000 ft. and overlooks the lake and the sur- 
rounding country, while there are rich lake-views from Rattlesnake Point. 
Warner's Cave {on Moosalamoo) and the Lana Cascade, E. of the lake, 
are often visited. Loixl Dnnmore visited this lake (about the year 1770) 
and, wading into its crystal waters, poured a libation of wine into it, saying, 
" Ever after, this body of water shall be called Lake Dunmore, in honor 
of the Earl of Dunmore." The scenes of the romance, "The Green 
]\Iountain Boa's," are laid in this vicinity. On the W. shore is the *LaTce- 
Dunmore House, which accommodates 100 guests (5- 8 - 15 a week). 

Middlebury {Addison Ho^ise, 80 guests, .$10.00-12.00 a week) is a 
handsome village, situated near a considerable fall in Otter Creek. It 
has some manufactures, biit its princiral product is marble, of fine quality. 
I'he Portland (Me.) Post Office is built of this marble. Besides 4 churches 
and a bank, the village contains the Addison County Court House, and is 
the seat of Middlebury College. This institution was incorporated in 
1800, and had, in 1871, 7 instructors, 65 students, and a library of 11,000 
volumes. It has three large stone buildings on an eminence near the 
village, and is under the care of the Congregational Church. 



184 Route 27. VERGENNES. 

Miildlebury has admirahle schools, and is the business-centre of a rich farming 
country. The favorite drives are to Belden's Falls, 2 M ; Lake Dunuiore, 8 M. ; 
Grand-View Mt., 9 M. ; and Bristol, 12 M. 

Stages run W. to Cornwall (6 M), Bridport (8 M.), nnd Weybridffe (-i M ). Also 
to the Bread-L.oaf Inn, 8 M. E., 1,500 ft. high on the Green Mts., and accom- 
modating 150 guests. 

Stations, Brookville and New Haven (New Haven Hotel), near New 
Haven River and large marble quarries. Stages run to Bristol (good inn), 
6 M. E., a pretty little hamlet on a high plateau, from which the Adiron- 
dacks and Green Mts. are seen. Stages also to Lincoln, among the mts. 

Station, Vergennes {Stevens House ; Franklin House) the smallest city 
in the Union (1,800 inhabitants). The site was chosen by Etlian Allen, 
and is on a hill at the head of navigation on Otter Creek, 8 M. from the 
lake. It received its city charter in 1788, and was named in honor of the 
Cotuit de Vergennes, French minister of foreign affairs, 1774-83. Otter 
Creek has deep water, and is navigable for 300 ton vessels to the Falls at 
Vergennes, which have a descent of 37 ft., and are improved for water- 
power. The country in the vicinity is ricli and productive, and commands 
views of the great mountain-chains on the E. and W., " a scene of grand- 
eur and sublimity rarely paralleled on this side of the Atlantic." The 
(Jhamplaiti Arsenal was located here, covering 28 acres of ground. INIore 
recently the Vermont Reform School has been established at this jilace. 
Coniniodore ivIacDonough's fleet, which won the naval victory off Platts- 
burg, was litted out at Vergennes in 1814. 

Stages run to AckUson, M. S., a famous old border-town, in whose S. "W. 
comer is Chimney Point, op|)osite Crown Point (see Route 5.3). It is now an 
agricultural town, widely known for its fine hordes. The road to Addison passes 
through Briclport, a broad, quiet fanuing town. About 3 M. S. of Verjcnnes are 
fine cascades in Otter Creek, near which is the Elxi'in .Sprin;/, coniaining sulphates 
of magnesia, iron, and soda, and carbonates of soda and liiiie. Daily steamboat in 
summer from Vergennes to Westport, N. Y., near the Adirouducks. 

Be3^ond Vergennes the line passes through Ftrrishurfjli, Cliarlotte, and 
Shelburne, to Burlington. These are quiet farming towns with frequent 
glimpses of Lake Chaniplaiii and tlie Adirondacks on the W., and the 
Green Mts. on the E. Stages run from N. Ferrisburgh to Moukton, which 
has two pretty lakes. 

Burlington, see page 3G5. 

27. Rutland to BeiiniKgton, 

Via the Bennington and Rutland R. R., 57 M., in 2 hrs. (express). 

Trains run from N. Bennington by State Line to Hoosac Junction, on the Troy 
and Boston II. 11. A new i-ailway route is being pushed eastward from Beuuington 
into the Green Mts., through (Jlasteubury. 

Station, Clarendun, wliich is separated from the Clarendon Springs val- 
le}' by a mountain. The hue then crosses the town of WaUhnjford (2 



RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON. Route 27. 135 

stations) near the lofty ridge called the White Eocks. Station, Mt. Ta- 
bor and Danby, between two rugged hill-towns, so-named, the former of 
which has less than 500 inhabitants on 23,376 acres of land, much of 
which is on the summits of the Green Mts. 

Stations, N. Dorset (JVushinfjton House), E. Dorset (Wilson House). 
The line runs through a valkn' between the Green Mts. on the E. and the 
marble hills of the Taconic system on the W. Mt. ^olus, the highest 
peak of the latter chain, has large marble quarries on its E. slope. 

Marble was tirst quarried here in 1785, and now there are 62 gangs of saws nm- 
nhig here and in Mancliester, sawing 750,000 ft. yearly. Over 300 quarrymen are 
employed, and the Dorset marble is sent to every part of tlie U. y. and Canada. 
One quarry produces the Italian marble, so called from its resemblance to that of 
Carrara. The supply is inexhaustible, and the stone is found in parallel strata 
1-6 ft. thick, sepai'ated by thin seams of other rock. Sometimes 29 of these 
strata are found, one above the other. On the S. of Mt. iEolus (formerly called Dor- 
set Mt.) is a remarkable cave containing 5 chambers and several long passages in 
tlie rock. Its innermost room is 50 ft. high, and has many stalactites. 

The line now follows the valley of the Battenkill to Manchester 
{''^Equinox House, open June to Dec, a large and first-class hotel ; Elm 
House; Taconic Hotel). Tliis is a quiet and beautiful village at the 
base of Mormt Equinox, and is much visited in summer on account of its 
pure air, picturesque environs, and fine fishing. The village sidewalks 
are of marble from the inexhaustible quarries on the mts., and the prin- 
cipal buildings are Burr Seminary and the Bennington County Court 
House. Mt. Junius is .5 IM. N. aiul Stratton Mt. lies to the S. E., near 
which is Stratton Gap, a romantic pass which has been reproduced in one 
of Durand's best paintings. A road has been constructed to the house on 
the summit of Mt. Equinox, which is 3,706 ft. above the sea. From this 
peak a view is gained, which includes Greylock, chief of the Berk- 

shire Hills, on the S., and the remote Catskills on the S. W. On the S. 
W. is Saratoga, with parts of the Hudson Valley running N. to Lakes 
George and Champlain, long reaches of which are visible. Mt. zEolus, 
Killington and Shrewsbury Pealvs loom up in the N. ; Ascntney is in 
the N. W., and far beyond Stratton Mt. (S. of E. ) is the dim blue 
cone of Monadnock. Skinner Hollov' is a deep ampiiitheatrical gulf on 
the S. of Equinox Mt., which has a profound cave. Equinox is a corruption 
of the Indian name, Ekwanok. The Battenkill was the Indian Ondawa. 

The first meeting of the Vermont Council of Safety took jdace at Manchester, 
July 15, 1777, and ordered the assembly of the militia to meet Burgoyne, who was 
marching on Albany. 1,400 men gatliered here under Stark and Warner, and 
encamped until the Hessians advanced on Bennington, when they marched down 
and beat tlieni. (Among the best New Englaiul historical romances are "The 
Oreen Mountain Boys " and "The Rangers," by Hon. D. P. Thompson. Their 
scenes are laid in tliis part of tlie State during tlie Revolutionary era.) 

Stages rvin E. to the mountain-towns of Peru and IVinhall. 

Station, Arlinr/trm (two iims), a diversified town in which are AVest and 
Red IMts., several small caves, and a blowing spring. The State seal of 



183 nouic27. RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON. 

Vermont had its origin here. A yonng English lieutenant was courting 
an Arlington girl, and one day, while there, he engraved on one ot Gov, 
Chittenden's horn-cups a picture of a cov/ and pine-tree and harvested 
grain, being a view from the W. window of the Governor's house. Ira 
Allen saw this engraving, and adopted the device for the seal of the 
State. 

7 M. N. of Arlington is Sanclgata Notch, a reniarkahle passage through the solid 
rock, 30 ft. high, 800 ft. long, and less than 12 ft. wide. This pass is used by a 
highway. Stages run from Arlington to Saudgate. 

Stations, Shaftsburi/, S. Shaftshury (stages to Glastenbury), N. Ben- 
niiKjton, and Bennington {Stark House ; Gates Hntel), a pretty village 
in a glen 800 ft. above the sea. It has 4 churches, the county buildings, 
a bank, 2 weekly papers, and fine graded schools. The town has 6.500 
inhaltitants, and is the chief manufacturing place in the State, making 
cotton goods, repellents, and knit underclotliing. Old Benninf/tnn Cen- 
tre, of Revolutionary lame, is 1 M. distant, and is a (piiet handet contain- 
ing the Mt. -Anthony Seminary. 

Here stood the old Calamount Tavern (burned in 1871), whosp sign was a stnfTed 
wild-cat on a pole, griuuiug tiercely towards New York. The Vermont Council of 
Safety used to mt'et liere and make plans to defend the State against tlie (daims 
of New York and tlie armies of the king. Ethan Allen's house adjoined the 
tavern. 

Mount Anthony is 2 M. by foot-path from Bennington {U M. byroad). 
From the tower on its suninut a beautiful * view is afforded, including 
most of S. \V. Vermont, ]\Its. Equinox and /Eolus, Greylock in Berk- 
shire, the broad Walloomsack Valley, several prominent Adirondack 
peaks, the Kayaderosseras Mts., the Helderberg range, and the remote 
crests of the Catskills. Prospect Mt. is often visited. 

Stages run on the great southern highway across the State to Brattleboro. 

Benningd;on Avas .settled in 1761 by Mass. people, and was named in honor of 
Benning Wentworth, Governor of N. H. For (50 years it was the most populous 
place in Vermont, of which it noAV is the fifth town. Soon after its settlement 
the territory now occupied by Vermont was transferred, by royal edict, from the 
jurisdiction of New Hampshire to that of New York. Tlie titles of the settlers 
to their lands were rendered null and void, and it became evident that they must 
either repundiase, abandon, or defend them against New York and the king. The 
sturdy pioneers determined on the latter course, and their well-organized resist- 
ance left the territory in a state of anarchy until the outbreak of the Revolution. 
The headquarters of the anti-New- York party was at Bennington, and here, in 
1777, was established a depot of military sujiplies. Fort Ticonderoga was taken 
by an expedition from this jilace (1775), and when Burgoyne's royal army was 
marching on Albany, he sent Col. Baume witli the Brunswick Dragoons and a 
motley swarm of Canadians, Tories, and Indians, to capture Bennington. This 
force (about GOO men) met Lieut.-Col. Gregg and 200 Vermonters, and drove them 
back until Gen. Stark's brigade moved up from Bennington (5 M. distant). Baume 
now halted and threw up entrenchments on a commanding hill, and Stark en- 
camped near by. After two days' skirmisliing. Stark was joined by a regiment 
from Berkshire, which, witli tlie .'i N. H. regiments and Herrick's Rangers, gave 
him a force of 1,800 men. On the day before the battle, Parson Allen, of Berk- 
shire, said to Stark, "General, the peopLe have been too often called out to no 
I'urpose. If you don't give them a chance to fight now, they 'II never tuiui out 
again." "You would n't tm-n out now while it's dark and rainy, would you?" 



RUTLAND TO ALBANY. Route 2S. 187 

said Stark. "Well, no, not jnst now," answered the Parson. " "Well," answered 
Stark, "if the Loid should once more give us sunshine, if I don't give you flght- 
ing enough, I '11 never ask you to turn out again." On the morning of Aug. 16, 
1777, tlie Aniei-ican militia were tlravvn out, and three detachments were sent to 
attack the Hessiau riglit, and right and left rear. "See there, nieu ! there are 
the red-coats. Before night they are ours, or Molly Stark will he a widow," 
cried Stark, as he led his men to the attack. The Indians fled lietween the con- 
verging columns, and the Tories sooii gave way, but the German soldiers fought 
with their sAvords when their ammunition liad given out, and oidy surrendered 
when enveloped by superior numbers. The action lasted ibr two hours, "like one 
coniinue<l clap of thunder," and scarcely had the victors begun to rest when Col. 
Breymau came near the field witli a large reinforcement for Baunic. Fortunately 
Warner's Vermont regiment had just arrived on tlie field, and the valiant Warner 
(wlio had been among the foremost in the battle) led tliem agai'nst the enemy. 
Tlie other cor/y.s were soon hurried to their support, and Breyman retreated at 
sunset. 237 of the enemy were killed and wounded, 700 were made prisoners, 
and 4 cannon were taken. The Americans lost about 200 (or, according to Stark's 
report, 70 killed and wounded). Tlie 16th of August has been observed as a holi- 
day at Benningt.oii ever since tlie battle. 

From Bi'imington to New York, tlie trains run in 9-12 hours, by Lebanon 
Springs (see Route 23), Ciiatliam Four Corners, Croton Falls, and White Plains- 
Trains to Albany in 4;j-6 hours. 

28. Rutland to Albany. 

Via the Rensselaer and Saratoga R. R. in 101 M. Fare, $3.65. 

Stations, Centre Rutland (near which the river is ci'ossed at Gookin's 
Falls), and W. Rutland, with its great marble- works. Stages run hence 
to Clarendon Springs (see page 182) in 4 M. ; fare, 75 c. Station, Castleton 
{Bnniosecn House), a prett,y village on a ])lain near Castleton River, which 
has a State Noimal School and five churches. There are marble and slate 
quarries in this vicinity, also works for preparing marbleized slate, an ex- 
cellent imitation of marble. 100 men are engaged here in making white 
soapstone slate-pencils, 300,000,000 of which ai'e made yearly. At W. 
Castleton, 1,000 billiard beds and 2,000 mantels of slate are made yearly. 

Excursions may be made from Castleton to Lake Bomoseen, 4 I\L N. 
W. This Lake is 8 M. long and 1 - 2^ M. wide, and is lined on its W. 
shore with marble-mills and slate-quarries. 

7 M. N. of Castleton is Huhhardton, where, near the Baptist church, is an obe- 
lisk near a flagstaff, which marics the battle-field of July 7, 1777. As soon as the 
British knew tli:it St. Clair had evacuated Ticonderoga, Gen. Frazer was sent in 
l>ursuit of him with a small force of light infantry. The American rear-guard 
was composed of 3 thin regiments, one of which retreated as soon as the action 
commenced. Frazer attacked the regiments of Warner and Francis with 700 men. 
The numbers were about equal, and "tlie tight was long and desperate. At last 
the Baron Riedesel arrived on the field with his Brunswickers, and the American 
lines were broken. They lost 324 men, including Col. Francis, who fell at the 
head of his regiment, while the British loss was 183. The bones of the slain 
bleached on the battle-field in the deserted town for 7 years, when they were 
buried near the site of the monument. 

Rutland and Washington Line. 
Ponltney {PnuUn,cii House ; Beanums) is 7 M. S. of Castleton, on the 
Rutland and Washington Railroad. The line passes through a region 



188 Route 20. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

abounding in slate-quarries, roultney is a handsome village, where Horace 

Greeley learned the printer's trade and Jared Sparks mastered the carj*en- 

ter's trade. Here also George Jones, of the N. Y. Times, was born. The 

tine ol<l buihling of the Kipley Female College is situated in pleasant 

grounds, and is now used b\' the Troy Conference Seminary (Methodist), 

for both sexes. Anujng the ])rjuci|)al points frequented l)y visitors are the 

Gorge, the Bowl, Carter's Falls, and Lake Bomoseen. Lake St. Catherine 

(name from an old Jesuit mission here) is a loveh' sheet of water, 6 M. 

by Ij M., surrounded by high hills and mountains. 3 M. from Poultney, 

at its head, is the Lake- Vieio House, in a line june grove, and commanding 

a view clear down the lake. The Lake St. Catherine Iloiist is at the toot 

<>i the lake, on a pleasant i)romontory, near the Haystack, Moosehorn, and 

St. Catherine Mts. 

Middletown Springs are 8 M. E. of Poidtney (stages daily, 75 c.). 

These springs are mainly impregnated with iron, and have become a pojiu- 

lar resort. The Mont\ert Hotel acconuuodates 100 guests; $2.50 a day, 

$ 10 a week. The Valley House is a smaller hotel in the vicinity. 

Beyond Poultney tlie Rutland and Washini^toii Division runs along the border to 
Easj;le l^ridge and Troy, 68 M. from Poukney, stopping at the Vermont stations of 
Pawlet and Jiupert. 

Beyond (\istleton the next main line station is at [lydtriUe (Russell 
House), at the foot of Lake Bomoseen. Station, Fairhaven (Park Vieto 
Jlouse), with a neat oval park, from wdiich the streets raduite. Vast amounts 
of slate for rooling and other purposes are quarried in this town. 

Daily stages run N. to the farming towns of Westhaven and Benson (10 
jSL), on the shore of Lake Champlain. Beyond Fairhaven the line reaches 
"Whitehall (N. Y.), whence the Champlain Railroad starts for Ticonderoga, 
Burlington, and Rouse's Point. For a description of the lake, and of the 
railroad from Albany to Whitehall, see Route 53. 

29. Bcston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal. 

Via tlie Boston and Lowell, Northern, and Vermont Central Riilroads. Distance, 
to i-<nvell. 20 M. : to Concord, 75 M. ; to Montreal, 334 M. 

(The other routes to ]\Iontreal are (1) by way of Fifchburs and Rutland, 3i4 M. ; 
i'l) l)y way of Portland and the Grand Trunk Railway, 4u5 M. ; and (3) by the 
Southpastern Railway ) 

By the Lowell route. Pullman and passenger cars run through to Montreal, 
without change, in 10-12 liours. Through express trains usually leave tlie Boston 
and Lowell depot, in Boston, ar, 8 30 o'clock A. M.,and 7 P. M., arriving in Montreal, 
respectively , at about 8.30 o'clock in the evening, and 8.25 in the morning. The line 
passes through the populous cities of Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, and Concord, 
and then runs N. W. through the pleasing rural scenery of New Hampshire and 
Vermont. 

The train leaves the superb Lowell Depot, in Boston, and crosses Charles 

River, with Charlestown resting on hills to the r. Over College Hill is 

Tufts College, a famous Uuiversalist school (founded, 1852), with 15 



MIDDLESEX FELLS. Route 29. 189 

instructors and 70 students, a lil)rary of 20,000 volumes, and the Goddard 
Chapel, a low blue-stone edifice, with memorial stained windows, and '" the 
only true Lombardic tower in America." The Middlesex Fells, an unin- 
habited tract of far-viewing stony hills, cliffs, gorji^es, ravines, and tarns, 
'*of wonderful pieturesqueness and wild and rugged beauty," cover the 
N. ]iart of jMedford, and are crossed by ancient grassy cartways and dim 
paths. Spot Pond (see below) is its centre, over which rises Bnir Hill, 
whose steep N. face is Cheese Rock, so named b}' Gov. Vv'intiirop. 

I'ine Hill and Taylor Mt. are in the Western Fell. S. E. of Winchester. 

The Mnldtn Cascade (100 ft. high) is near tlie Lynde mansion (built 
in IfJ-iO). The Fells may be entered from Melrose or Stoneham; or bj' 
Summer St., fi-om Maiden; or by Forest St., from iNIedford. The nearest 
wa}' is by the Boston and Maine R. R. to Stoneham Centre, whence horse- 
cars to Marble St., near Cheese Rock. Tlie tract covers six square miles, 
"The White Mts. in miniature," and may become a State park. 

Tiie railroad passes along Mystic Pond, near which lived Nanepashemet, 
"the Moon God," an early sachem of the Mass. Indians. He was killed 
in battle, about 1010. and buried in his fortress here. Winchester, with 
Its i)retty villas, is in a town of 5,000 inhabitants, with manufactures 
(chieily of leather) reaching over iS 2,000,000 a year. A branch line leads 
thence to Woburn (Central Hotcse), a town of 12,000 inhabitants, with 
annual manufactures of :)? 6,000,000 (leather, shoes, glue, &c.), a tine sol- 
diers' monument, a very handsome library, and 7 churches. From E. 
Wubuni a branch runs 1 M, E. to Stoneham (Central House), with 6,000 
inhabitants, and $2,500,000 worth of manufactures (shoes and leather) 
annually. On the S. is the romantic Spot Pond, surrounded by hills, and 
143 ft. above the sea, studded with islands, and covering 28-J acres. It 
was found and named by Gov. Winthrop, in 1632. 

Stations, N. Woburn, Wilmiivjton, Billerica. The latter slation is in 
an extensive farming town. Teioksbury, 2 M. N. of the station, is the 
seat of a large institution for the State's paupers. Sliortly after leaving 
N. Billerica the line crosses the Concord River and enters Lowell. 

Lowell. 

Hotels. —The Merrimar, American, and Washington Houses are the chief 
hoicU. 

Pawtucket Falls was a favorite fishing-place of the Indians until their 
extinction, and was often visited by Eliot and Gookin. In lti26 a town 
was set off here, and named Lowell, in honor of a Newburyport gentle- 
man who introduced the cotton-manufacture into the United States. 
The Pawtucket Canal extends from the head of the Falls to the Concord 
River below the city, and furnishes an immense water-power, having a 
fall of 33 ft. To obviate the trouble caused by an occasional decrease of 
water in the Merrimac River, a large dam has been built at the outlet 
of Lake Winnepesaukee (commenced in IS 10). Tlie Pawtucket Canal 



100 Route 29. LOWELL. 

was cut late in tlie last century, for purposes of navigation, Lut did not 
pay, and was bought in 1821 by Bostonians, who established a factory 
here. There were then 12 houses here, and in 1828 the population had 
risen to 3,532. The Merrimack Mills were started in 1823, and turn out 
50,000,000 yards of cotton cloth yearly. Their chimney is 283 ft. high. 

Beginning up-stream, the first line of factories belongs to the Lawrence 
Mills Co., while on the canal are the Tremont and Suffolk Mills. Beh)w 
the Lawrence Mills are the immense Merrimack Mills and Print Works 
(foot of Prince St.), which are succeeded ak)ng the river-front by the Boott 
and the Massachusetts Mills. The Middlesex, Prescott, Appleton, Hamil- 
ton, and Lowell Carpet Mills are on the canal, S. of Merrimack St. 

In 1884 there were in Lowell 170 factory-buildings, with a capitil of §18,000,000, 
running 900,000 spindles and 24,000 looms, and employing 13,000 women and 
14,000 men. They use annually 105,000 tons of coal, 15,000 bushels of charcoal, 
133,000 gallons of oil, 1,800 tons of starch, 38,000 tons of cotton, and 8,000 tons of 
wool. Thev produce annually 240,000.000 yards of cotton cloth, 10,000,000 yards 
of woollens, 8,500,000 yards of carpeting, 120,000 shawls, 16,500,000 pairs of hose ; and 
100,000,000 yards of cloth are dyed and printed. There are, also, manufactories of 
cassimeres, patent-medicines, cartridges, flannels, wire-goods, bolts, and the only 
bunting-factories in the country. 316 engines furnish 27,700 horse-power, and 
23,000 horse-power is derived from the canals. The city water-works (finished in 
1872) cost $ 1,820,569. The City Library has 28,000 volumes, and the Mechanics' 
Library has 14,000. 

The raili-oads which converse at Lowell are the Boston and Lowell, Lowell and 
Nashua, Stony Brook, Lowell and Lawrence, Frarningham and Lowell, and Lowell and 
Audover. Horse-railroads traverse the city streets, enabling visitors to reach the 
chief points of interest with ease and comparative comfort. 

Wlien the factory system was first inaugurated, the operatives were 
mostly Americans, but now the mills are worked almost entirely by Irish, 
Nova Scotians, and French Canadians. So, with the 27,000 operatives, 
mostly foreign, Lowell possesses but little of the aspect of a Ncav England 
citv. The French have a large church (Catholic). The great Church of 
the Lnmaculate Conception is in Belvidere, near the hospital of St. John. 
The city has 65,000 inhabitants, with 31 churches, 91 schools, about 9,000 
dwi'lliiig-houses, 10 lodges of ^Masons, and 4 of Odd Fellows. 

Merrimack St. is the main thoroughfare of the city, and contains long 
lines of shops. On this street is the Post-Otfice, City Hall, and a vener- 
able-looking Episcopal Church and rei:t()r3\ On S. Common is the Eliot 
Church, also the buildings of Middlesex County (which was organized in 
1643, together with Essex, Suffolk, and Norfolk Counties). On Merrimack 
St. is the City Library; and the Y. ]\r. Christian Association has pleasant 
reading-rooms, corner of Merrimack and Central Sts. 

Lowell has been visited by Presidents Jaoks(Ui, Tyler, Polk, Pierce, and 
Grant. Sir Charles Lyell came here, also Charles Dickens, who devoted 
a chapter ^\'., .\iiicrica!i ^'otcs) to it, and Frcdrii^a breuici-, Wuo speaks of the 
"glorious view imm Drewcrnlfs Hill on a cold winter evi'iiinu", of the manufuc- 
tories uf Lowell lying below in a half-circle, glittering with a thousand lights, like 
a magic castle on the snow-covered earth." 

By going to the upper end of Merrimac St., and turning to the 1., one 
comes to the bridge over the Merrinuic, from which a view of Pawtucket 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. Route 29. 191 

Falls and tlie canal entrance may be gained. On a little enrailed green 
on Merrimac St. the city has erected a monument to two of her young 
men, Ladd and Whitney, who belonged to the 6th Mass. Militia Reg., 
and were killed during the murderous attack on that corps by the roiighs 
of Baltimore^ April 19, 1861. Near this monument is a * bronze statue 
of Victory, by the celebrated German sculptor. Ranch, which has been 
erected as a memorial to the men of Lowell who fell in fighting against 
the Rebellion. 

Al'ter leaving Lowell, the line follows the Merrimac River to Concord. 
A seat on the r. is preferable. Stations, Middlesex, and N. Chelmsford. 
Middlesex is at the N. end of the old Middlesex Canal, running from this 
point to Boston, 27 M. It was completed in 1808, at a cost of $ 528,000, 
and had 20 locks in a fall of 136 ft., but since the era of railroads began, 
it has been neglected, and is not used. At X. Chelmsford the Stony 
Brook Railroad comes in from Groton (Ayer) Junction. The line soon 
regains the banks of the Merrimac near Wicassic Falls, and stops at 
Tyngsbi/ro', soon after wliich it crosses the State line and enters New 
Hampshire.. 

Nashua. 

Hotels, * Indian Head, corner Main and Pearl Sts. ; Tremont. 

The town of Dunstable (in which Nashua was included) was settled 
before King Philip's War, and was bravely defended throxigh that and 
the succeeding conflicts. So late as 1803, the present site of the city was 
a sandy plain covered with pine-trees. The Niishua Manufacturing Co. 
was chartered, in 1823, and factories were erected along the canals, wlule 
the new village grew in importance, until in 1853 it became a city. 

Nashua is a pleasant city (14,000 inhabitants), situated on hilly ground 
at the confluence of the Merrimac and Nashua Rivers. It has 11 churches, 
6 bodies of Masons, 3 of Odd Fellows, and 2 daily and 3 weekly news- 
papers. The streets are broad and well-lighted, and lined with trees, 
while some of the churches and private residences are of pleasing ap|)ear- 
ance. " By the wondrous alcliemy of skill and enterprise, out of the 
waters of the Nashua and the sands of this pine plain, frojn some half 
a dozen dwellings have been raised up these thronged and beautiful 
villages," 

The water-power is taken from Mine Falls on the Nashua River, from 
which a canal has been cut 3 M. long, 60 ft. wide, and 8 ft. deep, witli a 
head and fall of 36 ft. The Nashua Manufacturing Co. and other cotton 
mills have over 2,000 operatives. 110 men are engaged in making cards 
and glazed paper ; 150 men make locks; 75 make fans; 40 make sus- 
penders; 70 are engaged on soapstone work; and 160 make shuttles and 
boTjbhis. Tlie Underbill Edge Tool Co. uses 100 tons of iron and steel 



192 Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

ammally; the Vale Mills consume 500 bales of cotton; an<l the immense 
Nashua Iron Works consume 3,000 tons of iron, 800 tons of steel, and 
4,000 tons of coal each year. Besides the goods already mentioned, 
Nashua produces yearly 30,000 yards of ingrain carpets. 

Nashua is the terniinns of the Boston, Lowell & Nashua, Concord, Wilton 
Branch, Nashua, Acton & Boston, Nashua & Rochester, and Wor. & Nashua R. Rs. 



Nasluia to Wilton. 

From the latter station the Wilton Branch R. R. runs 16 M. N. W. to Wilton. 
This line jiasses through a pleasant and retired liill-country, much frei]uenled by 
t\ty peo])le in summer. 

Stations, .S'. Mcrriiimc and Amherst. The main village of Amherst town is some 
distance N. of the station, and the po]iular Amherst iSpring (good hotel) is about 
3 M. from the station (stages to the village and si)rings). The village is on a high 
X>lain, ^ M. square, and abounds in shade-trees. 

This town was granted to Essex Co. veterans of the Narragansett War, and 
was Uiinicd in 17(iO, in honor of Gen. Amherst, the commander i)i the Conquest 
of Canada. It sent 120 men to the Continental Army, although its jiopulation in 
1775 was larger than in 1S70. In a small farmhouse, 5 M. from Amherst village, 
Horace Greeley was born, Feb. y, ISll. He learned the printer's trade in Poult- 
iiey, Vt., between his 15tli and 19th year, and soon after went to New Yorlv, where 
he started several ]iapers (the Morning Post, New-Yorker, Jeffcrsonian, Log-Cabin). 
In 1841 he founded the New York Tribune, which became one of the most 
powerful and siurited of the New York newspapers, and advocated the abolition 
of slaverj^ the elevation of the laboring classes, and the protection (by tarifl') 
of American manufactures. Mr. Greeley generally supported the measures of 
the Repul>lican party from its origin until 1872 altliough favoring a more 
extended anniesty for the Southern States. In 1872 he joined the Liberal party, 
wliich seceded from the Republicans on account of dissatisfaction with President 
Grant's administration. He was nominated as candidate for the Presidency by 
the Liberal Convention at Cincinnati, and by the Democratic Convention at Bal- 
timore. After a long and bitter campaign, Grant was re-elected, and soon after, 
worn out by toil, Mr. Greeley died iu>ar New York. He was eccentric in many of his 
ways, and loved a quiet, rural life, while his powerful and jumgent editorials made 
him the leading journalist in America. 

Station, iSlxJj'ord {Xjwion House), a manufacturing -sil- 

lage on the broad meadows of the Souhegan River. Stages run daily to Mount 
Vernor^, %ith its " beautiful prospect of tov/ns and villages in the Merrimac and 
Bouhegan valleys. Sunrise in summer brings to view a vast expanse, including 
the beautiful villages of Massachusetts ; while from the spire of the church can 
be seen the snow-white sails upon the distant ocean. The name is a tit emblem 
of the spot ; for, clustering around this eminence, are numerous farms, in the mild 
seasons clad in the ricliest verdure." The McCollom Institute is an ellicR-nt 
academy at Mt. Vernon, wlucli has also a desk-factory. The town is frequented 
Vtysununer visitors. Milford has 2.000 iidiabitants, 2 banks, a handsome town- 
hall, a puldic libraiy, and 2 I'liurclies. (!0 of its soldiers died in the Civil War. 
The town produces fruit and milk, and matmfactui'es cotton cloth, yarn, etc. 

Station, 'Wilton (Everett House), a manufacturing village in a glen on the 
Souhegan River. 2,000 gallons of milk, besides other dairy jmiducts, are sent to 
Boston daily from this town. This is a po])ular sun)mer resort (2^ hours from 
Boston), lieing rich in hill-scenery and falling waters. Barnes' Cascade, Pack 
Monudnock Mt., and Lyndeborougli are often visited. (?ee page 415). 

K'ashua to Concord. 35 M. 

Stations (on the main line), Thornton's Ferry, Merriinac, Reed's Ferry, 
GoJ''s Falls, and JIcDichestcr. 



MANCHESTER. Route 29. 193 

Manchester. 

Hotels. — Hotel Windsor, Manchester St., S2.50; Manchester House, Elm St.; 
City Hotel, Elm St ; Aiuo.skeaj^ Hotel : Merriiuac House. 

This city was settled early iu the last ceutuiy by conflicting colonies of Scotch 
Presbytc^rians and Massachiisetts Puritans. For 75 years from its settleuieut, Derry- 
field (as it was then called) had neither a minister nor a lawyer, nor did it send any 
of its yoTith to college. The large lisheries at the Falls attracted the settlers here. 

In iSol there were less than TOO residents Here, but at that time the Amoskeag 
Manufacturing Co. bought the laud E. of the falls, and laid the foundations of a 
great city, which numbers over 40,000 inhabitants, with a valuation of about 
« 20,000,^00. 

Manchester (40,000 inhabitants) is the most populous city in New Hamp- 
shire, and is built on a broad plain near the Merrimac River. Elm Street 
is its principal thorouglifare, and is ]00 ft. wide and over a mile long. 
Public squares, with ponds enclosed in their limits, have been laid out in 
different parts of the city, and among the churches may be noticed the 
Unitarian, on Beech St., the Catholic and the Ei)iscopal on Lowell St., and 
the Convent and Church of St. Ann, on Merrimac St. The City Library 
contains about 20,000 volumes, and there are 2 daily and 4 weekly news- 
papers. The compact lines of tenement-houses, near the factories, were 
built for the operatives. The best streets are out of sight from tlie rail- 
road, in the E. and N. of the city, and have many tine residences and 
public houses. A grand view is given from Shirley Hill, G M. out, and a 
summer-resort. 

The water-power of Manchester is furnished by the Blodgett Canal, built 
in 181G around the Amoskeag Falls on the Merrimac River. These Falls 
have a descent of 47 feet, with rapids above, and in high water they afford, 
even now, a grand sight. The Amoskeag. Stark, Amory, and Langdon 
Mills, and the Manchester Print Works are located along the canal. Tlie 
Amoskeag Co. has 10 mills, with 171,000 spindles, employing 5,000 hands; 
and 38-40,000 bales of cotton are consumed yearly in tlie factories of the 
city. Manchester has 18 churches, 45 schools (with 6,600 pupils), 4 banks 
and 4 savings-banks, and several halls (Smythe's and Music Halls are the 
best). A line opera-house was built in 18S0. 

The Print Works employ 2,400 persons, and produce nearly 2,000,000 yards of 
cloth yearly ; the Stark Mills employ 1,300 hands, 11,000,000 yards yearly, valued 
at $ 2,000,000 ; the Langdon Mills, 500 hands, 5,000,000 yards yearly ; the Namaske 
Mills, ^:; 2,000,000 yards ; the Manchester Locomotive Woi'ks, .325 men, 1561o(;omo- 
ti\es yeai'ly ; hosiery mills, 140,000 dozen pair yearly ; and there are manufac- 
tories of axes, liles, paper, castings, carriages, etc. 

Lake Massabesic {* Massahesic House, 100 guests, $ 2.50 a day, $ 10.00 
a week) is 4 M. E. from the city, on the Candia road. The Portsmouth 
Railroad has a station near the hotel. The Lake is 4 M. long, and is 
very irregular in ovxtline, having 31 M. of shore, with some beaches of 
while sand, while nnmerous picturesque islets dot its surface. The Fairy 
Grotto and a curious sulphur cave (Devil's Den) are often visited. 
9 M 



194 Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

The Maneliester and N. Weare R. R. runs N. W. 19 M., passing the stations 
Bedford, Gotl'stown, Parker's, Oil Mills, Raymond, and E. Weare,' to N. Weare' 
in a busy manufacturing town. The Concord and Portsniouth R.' R. runs from 
Manchester to Portsmouth ; ■ and a raikoad runs S. E. to Lawrence in 

26 M. 

After leaving Manchester, ou the main line, the train passes Martin's 
Ferry, and stops at 'Kook^cXti.Ayer House ; Stearns House). Just he- 
fore reaching tlie station, the Merrimac is crossed by a bridge 550 ft. long. 
This village is the seat of cotton factories and extensive brickyards (mak- 
ing 10,000,000 bricks a year), and derives considerable water-power from 
16 ft. falls in the river. In the W. of the town is a lofty and ragged 
pile of rocks called Pinnacle Mt., from whose summit a good vieAv of 
the valley is gained. At its base is a deep, clear pond which has no 
visible outlet. This town is on the reservation given by Massachusetts to 
Passaconoway, the great Sachem of the Pennacooks. His son and suc- 
cessor, Wonnolancet, was converted by the apostle Eliot, and when King 
Philip's ardent eloquence had persuaded the Pennacooks to enter the 
anti-English Confederation, he resigned the sachemdom, and went to 
Canada with his family. Branch railroads diverge from Hooksett to Sun- 
cook and Concord, and to Allenstowu and Pittstield (see page 417). The 
main line passes along the W. bank of tlie Merrimac, through the an- 
cient town of Bow, to 

Concord- 
Hotels. —* Eagle Hotel, opposite the State House, 83-3.50 a day; *Phenix 
Hntcl. Main St., .'ip3 a day ; Elm House ; and several smaller hotels. 

ribraries. — The State Library (1.3,000 volumes); the City Library (9,000' vol- 
umes), School St. ; N. IL Historical Society (7,000 volumes). ]\iain St. 

Kailroa«!s. — To Bostou, 75 M. ; I'ort-mouth, .59 M. ; Ciarcmont. 54^ M. ; White- 
River .1 unction, 69 ]M. ; Ilillsl>oroui;h Bridge. 27 M. ; Lancaster, 135 MT 

Staifes daily to London Ridge, 15 M. N. E. ; Ilopkinton. 7i ^\. W. ; and Dunbar- 
ton (Prospect House i, 10 M. S., a lofty summer-resort village, overlooking 37 towns. 
The territory now covered l)y Concord was granted by Massachusetts in 1725, 
and occupied soon after, the Pennacook Indians giving way. It was named Rum- 
ford in 1733. and 8 years later was confirmed as a part of New Hampshire, to the 
great regret of the settlers, who petitioned the king to gdve the territory back to 
Mass. At the breaking out of war with France, seven timber forts were built, 
in which the 06 men of the town, Avith their families, lived in state of siege. 
Several of the townsmen were killed or captured. For numy years a litigation 
was carried on l)etweeii the itrojirictors of the town of Row and the Rumfoiditcs, 
the former claiming that the grant from Mass. under which Rumford was si'ttlcd 
was illegal and void. Tlie N. II. courts decided that the Mass. grant was value- 
less, and then the vexed colonists sent two commissioners with an appeal to the 
Iving. He decided in faM)r of the Rumford peoide, and by an order in council 
confirmed theui in their rights. As late as 1772, negroes were bt)ught and sold 
here, and bears and wolves were very ti-(mblesome to the farmers. The name ■ 
Concord was adopted m 1765, and in 1816 the town was made the State capital. 

Concord, the capital of the State of New Hampshire, is a handsome 
city of 14,000 inhabitants, situated on the W. side of the Mcrrinuic Kiver, 
equally distant from the ocean and from the Connecticut liiver. Main 
and State Streets run parallel with the river, and are broad and pleasant 
avenues. The abundance of shade-trees on these and the cross-streets 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. Route 29. 105 

gives fhe city a pleasant embowered appearance. The State Capitol is a 
line structure, fronting across a small park on Main St. It is built of 
Concord granite, and the projecting portico is sustained by eight pairs of 
coupled cohmms. The State liilirary is in a hall opening off the first 
lobby, which is richly decorated with the colors of the N. H. regiments in 
the Secession War. The halls of the Senate and House of Representa- 
tives are neat and commodious. The building is surmounted by a lofty 
and graceful dome, from which a pleasant view is obtained. 

The City Hall and Court House is on Main St., N. of the Capitol, and 
is a neat brick building, surmounted by a round dome. 

Concord has 3 banks and -i savings-banks, a large mercantile trade, and 
a vahiatiou of $ 14,500,0U0. There arc 5 papers, and 12 churclit-s. '1 lie 
water supply is from Penacook Lake, 3 M. N. W. The city has 4 bridges 
across the Merrimac. 7 M. of hort^e-raiiway run to Wc Concord and 
Penacook. U. S. Government building on State St. 

The Slate Asylum for the Insane has tine buildings in the W. part of 
the city. It was founded in 1812, since wliich it lias treated over 3,500 
patients. Its present capacity is 260 patients, and many are discharged 
yearly as cured. Tlie State Prison is on Main St. 

Benjamin Thompson, Count Rum ford, born at Woburn, Mass., 1753, was lon.s a 
resident of Concord (then called Rumfurdl At the time of the Revolntkin 
(being- then a school-teacher at Rumford), he was unjustly suspected of disloyalty 
to the American cause, and was annoyed until he took refuge in the British lines. 
He became an under-seeretary in Lord Gerniaine's cabinet at London, and after- 
wards raised the " King's American Dragoons " in New York, with which he 
surprised and dispersed Marion's men (1782). He was knighted by King George, 
and in 178-4 became chamberlain and aid-de-cam]) to the Elector of Bavaria. 
Here he reorganized the army, suppre;ssed l)eggary, made the Park at Munich, 
and kept the Electorate neutral during the Franco-Austrian War. He was made 
State councillor, lieut-gen., minister of war, count (taking tlie title from his old 
home), and head of the regency. He founded the Royal Institution at London, 
maiTied the widow of Lavoisier, and became one of the leading scientists of 
Europe. He discovered that heat is only a mode of motion, and wrote exten- 
sively on light, heat, and other scientific subjects. He endowed a professorship 
in Harvard University, and passed the last 16 years of his life in scientific ex- 
periments. His daugliter, the Countess of Rumford, lived in Concord until her 
death, in 1852. A line bronze statue of the Count has been erected in one of the 
principal promenades of Munich (near the Hotel des Quatre Saisons). 

Abbot, Downing, & Co.'s coach and exiu-ess-wagon works at Concord are the 
largest in the world, and their wagons are sent to Japan, Australia, and California, 
besides being in high repute throughout the Atlantic States. Hill's harnesses 
(75 men in the works) are also sent to all parts of the world. The Prescott Melo- 
d(ions have been made here since 1837, and a furniture com]»any uses .$ 1,000,000 
■worth of lumber yearly. At Pc7iacoo/,; are large furniture-factories. Inexhaustible 
quarries of fine granite are worked on Rattlesnake Hill, 1 M. N. W. 

St. Favil's School (Episcopal ; 220 boys) has .stately buildings, 2 M. W. i M. 
distant is a moniunent to soldiers slain here by Indians in 174tJ. 

The Birchdale-Syrings Hotel, 4.1 M. out, is a large and modern summer- 
hotel, for loo guests, with the Concord and Granite Springs (fur dy.--pcp.--ia, lung 
troubles, and diseases of the skin and blood j, among beautiful groves, on high, dry, 
and sandy hills in a rich farming country. Noble views from Evlin Jli/f. 

A beautiful ante-colonial tradition of this locality is prescuwed by Whittier iu 
" The Bridal of Peuuacook,"' picturing the Merrimac valley ceuluries ago, wheu 



19G Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

" In their sheltered repose, looking out from the wood 
The hark-builded wigwiiiiis of Pennacook stood. 
There glided the corn-diince, the council-fire thone. 
And against the red war-post the hatchet was tlirown. 

There the old smoked in silence their pipes, and the young 
To the pike and tlie white perch tlicir bidtcd lines fluug ; 
There the bfty sliaped his arrow, and there the shy maid 
■Wove her many-hued baskets and briglit wami)uin braid." 

Concord and Claremont R. R., 5G§ 3f. Fare, §12. 

Passing the high-placed Penitentiary and the W.-Concord granite-quar- 
ries, and crossing the Contoocook, the train reaches Contoocook, whence a 
branch runs to Henniker Ci^oyea House), a beautiful old villige; Hills- 
borough { Valley Jloust), the birthplace of President Pierce; Antrim 
(Carter House); Be?inin(,Um (Dodge Farm, in summer) ; Hancock Junction, 
crossing the Mancliester and Keene R. R. ; and Peterboro (see page 413). 
Beyond Contoocook is Warner ( Warner and Kearsarye-Mt. Hotel, $6- 
10 a week), a pleasant summer-resort, with 2 churches, a large high-school, 
a bank, and a library. The streets are shaded with rock-maples, and are 
neat and quiet. A road runs thence u M. N. to Mt. Kearsarge. There 
are many pleasant drives in the vicinity, through a ))icUires(|ue region. 

Bradford (Bradford ILiusv ; Raymond) is a charming village near the 
island-strewn Bradford Pond, nuuli frequented by sunuuer-visitors. Love- 
well's and Sunapee Mts. are near; and Mt. Kearsarge is ]() M, N. E. 
Stages run 5 M. S. W. to the Bradford Mineral Springs {Bradfcrd- 
Springs Hotel, regular board ^ 1 a day), 1 M. from E. Washington. Tiiey 
were used by the Indians; and in 1840 the Hermilage hotel was built 
here. The waters are beneficial in scrofula, and diseases of the kiduej-s, 
stomach, and skin. The hotel has recently been doubled in size. There 
is tine lake ai;d mountain scenery in the vicinity. Stages run daily from 
Bradford to New London (13 M N.). Between Bradford and Sunapee, 
the railroad traverses a cutting through 400 ft. of hard slag-like rock. 

Sunapee Lake is a beautifid sheet of water, 9 J\L long, and 1^-3 M. 
wide, in the midst of roiuantic scenery, and abounding in (ish. A steam- 
boat runs thrice dailv from Newburv station, 8 M. to Blodgett's Landing, 
Great Island, Lake View, Liberty Island, Pine Cliff, Sunapee Harbor 
{RunaU Hmise, S 5-9 a week), and George's Mills. The lake is sur- 
rounded by picture.-que higblands, ami has wooded shores and ]iretty 
islands. In' its limpid waters dwell black bass, trout, salmon, pickerel, and 
perch. Summer-l)oarders visit Garnet Ilill, Indian Cave, Newpor (G ]\L), 
Mr. Sunapee (3i INL), and other points. Wm. C Sturoc, a native of 
Arbroath, Scotland, who lives near the Harbor, is known as " The Bard of 
Sunapee." N. P. Rogers called this lake "the Loch Katrine of America." 
The Lake-View House, 4 M. from Newbury, has telegraph, billiards, and 
bowling (^7- 10 a week). From the lake 'are seen Kearsarge, Cardigan, 
Croydon, and other stately peaks. Within ten years Sunapee has become 
a faVorite summer-resort, with tents, cottages, and good hotels. 

Station, Newjwrt (Newport House; Phenix House), the shire-town of 
Sullivan Co., a pleasant village enwalled by hills, and situated on the 
Sugar River. Several small mountains are situated in this town, and there 
are romantic glens along the Sugar River and its branches. Sunapee 
Lake is 6 M. distant, and Croydon ]\It., the highest summit in the county, 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. Roidc 29. 197 

is 9 - 10 M. N. in the bleak and granite-strewn highland town of Croydon. 

Beyond Ne%vport the line follows the impetuous Sugar River through its 

glens and gorges to Claremont {Belmont House ; SidUvan House). This 

town was settled in 1767 hy Connecticut men, and was named for Lord 

dive's summer juansion. Tliere is mucli rich alluvial land in the town, 

and the valley is hounded by a great range of hills. Claremont village is 

at the rapids on Sugar River, where a fall of 150 ft. in less than a mile 

gives a great water-power. The Monadnock Mills, the Sugar River Paper 

Mills, the Claremont Manufacturing Co., the Sullivan Machine Co., and 

other corporations have their works here. Immense quantities of rags are 

consumed in the manufacture of paper, 500 tons of which are turned out 

yearly. Over 3,500,000 yards of cotton cloths, 70,000 yards of doeskins, 

70,000 yards of ilannels, are made liere yearly, Claremont village has 6 

churches and a fine liigh school, which was endowed by Paran Stevens, 

tlie Amei'ican hotel-king. Flat Rock, Twist Back, and Bible Hill are 

visited by those who summer here, v/hile from Green Mt. a fine view of 

the Conn, valley is enjoyed. Ascutney is 10 M. N. 

2 M. from Olfiremont the ruilroad connects witli the Central Vermont. Daily 
stajjes fnini Newport to Grantham, Croydon, Goshen, Wasiiiugton, Jiili.^boio, K. 
Unity, and Lempster ; and from Chiremont to Cornish Flat, Merideu, and Lebauou. 

Concord to White-Hirer Junction and Montreal 
The INIontreal train passes at Concord on to the rails of the Northern 
(N. H.) R. R., and runs N. from Concord on the r. bank of the Merriinac. 
Just after passing the manufacturing village of Fisherville, at the con- 
fluence of the Merrimac and Contoocook Rivers, the train crosses a bridge 
to Duston's Island, and thence by another bridge to the shore. On this 
island Mrs. Duston, of Haverhill, killed her Indian captors and escaped. 
The line now runs along the broad intervales of Boscmoen (two stations). 

A monument was erected here in 1874, consistinf:^ of a massive granite pedestal, 
on wliicli is a statue of the heroine {1\ ft. hi-h), witli a tomahawk in one liaud 
and a buucli of scaljis in tlie other. Fisherville (Fcumiajok House) lias 4 
churches, an academy, library, bank, and l^'iO houses, and manufactures yearly 
$1,;:!00,000 worth of cotton and woollen ^oods. Hour, lumber, etc., by the water- 
]K)wer of the Contoocook River. Bosca'^veii Plain {AmhroseHolel)\s ^ \en- 
erable old hamlet on the Merrimac, with a broad, straight, and shady street. 
The town contains 1,C37 inhabitants. tStages run W. to the lofty liandet of Web- 
ster, on Courser Hill. Boscowen was the l)irthi>lace of C. G. Greene, founder of 
the " Boston Post" ; Senator W. P. Fessenden, and Gen. John A. Dix. 

Stations, Webster Place and FranMin (Webster House ; Franklin 
House). 2 M. S. W. of Franklin village Daniel Webster was born, in 
17S2. The family moved to a new liome near Webster Place, and 
he afterwards bought this hitter estate, and used to retire there to rest. 
Franklin village is near the confluence of the Winnepesaukee and Pemi- 
gewasset Rivers, which form the Merrimac. It is a thriving mechani- 
cal village of 2.000 inhabitants, with 4 churches, a paper, librarj'', acad- 
emy, and b;ud<, and manufactories of paper, flannels, socks, needles, etc. 



198 Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

A branch runs from Franklin up tlie Pemigewasset valley 13 M., passing 
Hill Village {Ladd's Hotel), with Periwig Mt. on the 1., to Bristol {Bristol 
Iluust), a pretty village at the continence of the Newfonnd and Pemige- 
wasset. 2 M. N. is the beautiful Newfound Lake, 7 M. lung and 2-3 M. 
■wide. Sugar-Loaf Mt. is on the W. shore, and Crosby Mt. is on the E. 
A daily stage runs from Bi'istol, on a road Avhich gives frequent glimpses of 
the lake, to Hebron (Union House), near its N. end. The Lake-View 
House is 5 M. from Bristol (150 guests ; $ 5 - 10 a week). 

After leaving Franklin, the main line passes Webster Poiul and the 
bleak and precipitous range of Ragged Mt. on the r , and t^tops at the 
quiet little village of £. Andover (Lake House), near its long, bright lake. 
Andover {Proctor House, billiards, steam-he;it, livery-stable, etc.), is sur- 
rounded by noble scenery. The next station is Po/i'er P/ace (Ivearsarge 
House), named for the magician Putter. St:igcs run from this station to 
Mount Kearsarge (4 M. S.), an isolated peak, with a rocky summit 2,-401 
ft. above the sea. It affords a noble* view in a clear day, including, on 
the W., Sunapee and Lovewell's Mt., and the blue Sunapeo Lake, ami 
Croydon and Ascutuey, with the vast range of the Green Mts. closing t!ie 
horizon behind them. In the N. is Cardigan Mt., with the Pemigewasset 
Mts. in the distance, and swinging around to the r. are the Fraiiconla and 
the White Mts., with Lake Winnepesaukee in the N. E. In the nearer E. 
is the thronged and prosperous valley of the Merrimac, while countless 
villages dot the landscape on every side. Far up on the sloping side of the 
Mt. is the Winslow House, a far-viewing summer-hotel. 

The splendid and comniandin'j; grauite peaks of Mt. CartlifjaJi 'Te to tho X., 
in Alexandria (daily stages froui Bristol, in 4 M.). Stages run ;».V M. S. W. IVoiu 
Potter I'laee, tiirough ^\'ilulot Flat, to ISoav l.oudoii {Seaman's Hotel), tlicseat 
of the laiuou-^ New-Londou Lit(^-ar_y and Scieutifjc lustitutiou. 

Stations, W. Andover, S. Danbury, and Grafton (Grafton House). 
Grafton is S. of Cardigan Mt., and at Glass Hill great quantities of mica 
are mined. The Pinnacle, on this hill, has a sharp precipice 350 ft. high 
on its N. side. Beyond Graf/on Centre the line passes Isinglass Mt. and 
Tewksbury Pond on the 1., iuid stops at Canaan (two small inns in the 
town). In the 43 M. between Concord and Grafton the railway has as- 
cended over 800 ft. It now takes a slight down grade, following the 
valley of the iMascomy to the Conn. River. The pretty village of Canaan 
Street lies on the shore of Heart Pond. 

The Pinnacle Hnnso (25 guests), Cardir/an Hnufte, and Crystal-Lalv House 
are near (Jaiiaan, amid olioice scenery. There arc several summer boardiiig-hou-es 
ill Enfield, and the steamer Helena runs on MaTomy Lake. Lebanon has the 
ililmn-Sprhxi House (40 guests) at the foot of Chiron Mt.. and .several firm 
boarding-houses (A. P. llowe, A. 13. Smith, etc.). Soathico7'th's Hotel is at W. 
Lebanon. 

The line now enters Enfield, and skirts Mascomy Lahe (or Enfield 
Pond), a beautiful sheet of water 4 M. long, on Avhose S. W. shore is a 
community of Shakers. These industrious jieople furnish much line wool 



BOSTON TO :JONT?tEAL. Route 20. 190 

to the market, also wooden-ware and garden seeds. In this town are tlie 
Granite State and Monnt Cahn Hotels, with some quiet and romantic 
scenery around Crystal Lake and Mount Calm. 

Stations, E. Lebanon and Lebanon (Sayre Hotel), a manufacturing 
village on an elevated plain near the Falls on the Mascomy (Nov-Anglice 
for the Indian Mascoma). Elastic sponge, scythes, flour, and machines 
are made here. Station, IF. Lebanon (small hotel), the seat of Tildeu 
Ladies' Seminary, whose fine buildings are seen on a commanding hill to 
tlie 1. The line now crosses the Connecticut River on an oysn bridge, 
atfoi-diiig good views up and down stream, and stops at White River 
Junction {Junction House, good). This is an important point in the 
nortliern railway systems, the roads which converge here being the 
Northern (N. H.) R. R., the southern and central divisions of the Cen- 
ti'al Vermont R. R., and the Connecticut & Passumpsic and Massawippi 
Valley R. R. By the nearest routes this Junction is distant from Boston 
U-2 M. ; from New York, 260 M. ; from Concord, GO M. ; from Spring- 
l.'.Id, 124 M. ; from Burlington, Vt., 104 M. ; from Montreal, 184 M.; 
from Quebec, 266 M. (These figures are from the Official Guide, pub- 
li ;h;jd at Philadelphia. Of the seven other books which allude to the 
y abject no two agree.) 

There is a good restaurant in the station, and trains usually stop long 
enough for a dinner to be obtained. The train passes now on to the rails 
of the Central Vermont R. R., which runs throv.gh a pleasant rural dis- 
trict, and achieves the passage of the Green Mts. by some fine engineer- 
ing works. The picturesque Wliite River is followe;! for 25 Id. Stations, 
White-River Village, and Woodstock. The Woodstock R. R. runs from 
White-Biver Junction to Woodstock village, 10 M. S.W. u])the picturesque 
Otta Quechee River. WoodstockVillage (Eagle Hotel), the sliire town of 
Windsor Co., is on this road, 10 M. from the main line, and is a beautiful 
rural hamlet with an elm-adorned park in the valley of the Otta Quechee. 
From ]\It. Tom (near the village) a pleasing view is obtained down the 
long valley of the river. The village has two weekly journals, a bank, 
and a large country trade, besides some manufactures. 

George P. Marsh, U. S. Minister to Turkey, 1849-53, and to Italv, 1861 -73, 
was born here in 1801. He is distinguished as a philologist, in connection with 
the Norse language. Hiram Powers was born here in 1805. He was a farmer's 
son, and after many vicissitudes he learned the art of modelling in plastei', and 
ojiened a studio in Florence about 1837. .Since tlien he has executed some of tiie 
tinest sculptures of modern times. His "Eve" was highly commended by 
Thorwaldsen, and the "Greek Slave" was a noble work, of which copies have 
been multiplied. " II Penseroso," "California," "America," "Proserpine," 
and nnmei-ous other renowned works, including portrait-statues, have given him 
the highest rank among sculptors. 

Beyond Woodstock station the line crosses the crystal-clear river, and 
passes through the pretty scenery about W. Hartford to Sharon station. 
The village is seen high up on the opposite shore. 



200 R(mie29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

In 1805, Joseph Smith, the fonnder of Mormonism, was bom at Sharon. In 
ISoO he puhliblied (at PahrnTa, N. Y.) the Book of Slnrinon, which he claimed to 
have translated from nietallic plates found by him while under the guidance of 
angels. He went West mih his converts, and founded Nauvoo, in Illinois, where 
he exercised despotic authority until 1S44, when the wr;ith of tlie "Gentiles" in 
the neighboring towns was aroused by his un,just acts. He was imprisoned at 
Carthage, and soon after the jail was stormed by a moli, and he was killed. Brig- 
liam Young succeeded him as "President of the Church," and still maintains the 
title. (Rev. Solomon Spalding, of Conn., wrote a romance, " Tlie Manuscript 
Found " (in ISOU). He allowed Sidney Rigdon and others to read his IVlS., which 
was soon after stolen from his widoAv, and tliose who hnd read the romance after- 
ward declared that the Mormon Bible was but a corrupt veision of it. Rigdon 
became a prominent Monuon). 

Station, S. Royalton (S. Roj-alton House, good), with the station on 

one side of its main square, on which front the hotel, church, and stores. 

The river is now crossed by a bridge 600 ft. long, and the train stops at 

Itoyalton, wdiere occurred, in October, 1780, the last Indian attack on 

New England. The attack was made by 210 Indians, who plundered and 

burnt the village (and also Sharon), killing and capturing 27 of its 

people. 

Daity stages 'S .to Chelsea (Orange Co. Hoiise), the shire-town of Orange County, 
passing through Tunbridge (13 M.). Also N. W. through E. Bethel and E. Ran- 
dolph, to E. Brooktield (16 M.). The Chelsea stages run from S. Royalton. 

Station, Bethel (Bascom House), a busy manufacturing village, in a glen 
among high hills. Daily stages to Barnard (Silver Lake House), 8 M. 
distant, and to Woodstock. Also to Stockbridge (10 M.), Pittsfield (13 
M.), Roche.ster (17 M. ), and Hancock, four thinly populated towns (with 
small inns), under the shadow of tlie Green Mts. 

Station, Bandolj^h {Cottage House; Randolph House), a busy village 
on the third branch of White River, which the railroad follows from 
Bethel to Roxbury. Stages run to Chelsea, Brookfield, and Randolph 
Centre (3 M. N. E.). The country now grows wilder and more thinly 
inhabited. Station, Braintree, a I'ude village surrounded by rugged hills. 
To the W. is Granville, v/ith a road crossing the mountain-pass, 2,340 ft. 
above the sea. A.t Roxbury atatiow (Summit House), the train reaches 
the summit of the pass, 1,000 ft. above the sea. Near the village are 
inexhaustible quarries of the best verd-antique marble. Crossing a 
bridge 400 ft. long and 70 ft. high, the train passes on to Xorthjield 
(Northfield Ho\ise), in a populous town wliich has several (piarries of 
dark blue slate. Lewis College is situated here, in large buildings on a 
hill to the r. of the track. 

10 M. from Nortlitield is Montpelier Junction, whence a short branch 
road diverges to Montpelier i* Pavilion Hotel, opposite the station, $3 a 
day, $ 10 - 15 a week ; Amtrican ; Union : Binhop). Montpelier, the capital 
of the State of Vermont, is a beautiful village of about 4,000 inhab- 
itants. It is situated on a jtlain near the Winooski River, and is sur- 
rounded by a highly cullivaicd hill-couuiry. 10 M. to the S. W. is the 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. Route 29. 201 

geograjjhical centre of tlie State. Tlie village is compactly built, and 

luis 3 banks, 3 insurance cos. (tlie Vt. Mutual lias $ 41,000,000 of 

risks), 5 weekly newspapers, and 6 cliurclies, one of which is a noble 

]»iece of architecture. There are several Hour-mills, lumber-mills, and 

tanneries, besides which the village has an extensive country trade. 

The * State House is a noble edifice of light-colore<l granite, on the 

site of the old State House, which was burnt in 1357. It stands on a 

sliglit eminence approached from a verdant Coniiuou by granite steps in 

terraces. Tlie portico is supported by six massive fluted Doric columns, 

and under it stands a fine statue in Vermont marble of Vermont's liero, 

]']i.'nan Allen. It was executed by Larkiu G. Mead, of Brattleboro' (now 

living in Italy). 

Etliau Allen was bom at Litchfield, Conn., in 1737. He moved to Vermont 
in 1760, and was outlawed l)y Now i'urk foj- liis bold and dcliant action in the 
l)order feuds. In 1775 he took Fort Ticoudeioya from tlie British. Later in the 
year he attacked Montreal with 110 men, and Avas captured, with his whole com- 
mand. He was confined in Pendennis Castle, in England, for a short time, Imt 
was exciianged in 1778, and took command of tlie Vermont militia. A royal de- 
cree of 1704 had constituted the Connei'ticut River the E. boundary of New 
York (N. of Mass.), and Mass. and N. H. also claimed parts of its territory. But a 
CDiivention at Westminster, in 1777, declared Vermont a free tttate. The Conti- 
nental Congress would not ratify this voice of the people, and all its troojis were 
withdrawn from the territory. Vermont, thus left alone, was unaijle to resist at- 
tacks from the British in the N., and Alien skilfully conducted feigned negotia- 
tions with the royal generals, looking towards annexation to Canada, and secur- 
ing neutrality for his State. It was only in 1791, after 26 years of controversy, 
that Vermont was admitted into the Union, — to offset Kentucky. After an 
eventful life, Ethan Allen died at Burlington in 1789. 

Under the portico of tlie State House are kept two cannon taken from 
Breyraan's Hessians at the battle of Bennington (1777), after a desperate 
struggle. The British got them back when Gen. Hull surrendered the 
Army of the N. W. at Detroit (August, 1812), and they were again taken 
by the Americans during the Canada campaign, Tliey were sent to 
Waslungton, and afterwards were presented by Congress to the State of 
Vermont. The main building of the State House is 72 ft, long, and each 
of the wings is 52 ft., making a total length of 176 ft. The dome is 
124 ft. higli, and is surmounted by a graceful statue of Ceres, the goddess 
of agriculture. Tlie marble-paved lower floor is devoted to committee- 
rooms, and a small collection of historical and mineral curiosities. In 
large niches at the ends of the neat lobby on the second floor are pre- 
served the battle-flags and pennons of the Vermont regiments in the 
Secession War. What with storm, forest-march, and many battles, these 
veteran standards have lost their pristine brightness and wholeness, and 
witli the names of the battles in which they were borne written on them 
in golden letters, tliey are carefully kept behind plate-glass. The gallery 
of the Senate is entered from the third floor. The halls of the Senate and 
House are well worth visiting, being graceful in form and well ornamented. 
Four substantial bridges cross the Winooski River in Montpelier, and 



202 Route 20. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

Die cov.ntry about the village affords many pleasant objective points for 
a summer clay's lide or ramble. 

Daily stages to Worcester, 9 M. N. (Worcester House), and Elmore, 

21 M. N. Daily stages to Hardwick, 20 M. N. E., on the Portland and Ogdenslmrg 
R. R., passing through Calais 10 M. ; and U'ooilbury, thinly 

populated towns with scores of small lakes abounding in trout and other lish. 
Daily stages to Marslijield, 15 M. N. E. , on the Great Falls of the Winooski, where 
that stream falls 500 ft. in 30 rods. R. 1?. to Pluinjidd, 9 M. E. (Plainfield House), 
with a medicinal spring (Spring House) of some repute ; to Washington (Vv'as)iing- 
ton House, i;ake House), 15 iM. 8. E. ; to Orange, 13 M S. E. ; to Williaynstown. 
Railroads to Barre and Wells River. 

Beyond Montpelier Junction the main line passes on to Middlesex 
(Washington House), near which (on the 1.) the Winooski River passes 
through the Middlesex Narrows, a cutting in the rock, 30 ft. deep, 60 ft. 
wide, and 1,300 ft. long, whicli has been worn by the action of the water. 
Stages run S. to Moretovm, (7 M. ), Waitsfield (12 M. ), and Warren. Beyond 
Middlesex the train readies Waterbury (* Waterljury House), a highland 
town abounding in pleasant rambles and rides, with frequent glimpses of 
Camel's Hump (in the S. W.). Camel's Hump ML is 8 M. distant, and 
Bolton Falls are but 3 M. to the N. W., and both are approached by 
good roads. N. E. of Waterbury, 10 M. (serai-daily stage in summer) is 
the rich fanning town of Stowe (*J/^^ .]ransjicl.d House, opens June 1, for 
500 guests, $3-4 a day, ;ii; 15-20 a week; billiards, cr()(|uct, bowling, 
theatre, etc. 100 hoi'ses are kept in llie stables). Stowe, "llie Saratoga 
of Vermont," is charniiugly situated in a (juiet valk}- in full sight of lofty 
mountains, and when Idled with summer guests it presents a lively ap- 
jxarance. "Stowe is unrivalled in the beauty, picturesqueness, and luxu- 
]■ ant magnificence of its mountain scenery." From Sunset Hill, near the 
hotel, a fine view of the village is obtained, and also of Mt. Mansfield and 
Camel's Hump. 3-4 M. N. E. of Stowe, on the slope of Worcester Mt., 
are the Moss (Jlen Falls, in a narrow, rock-walled ravine which contains 
three picturesque basins. This bit of Tyrolese scenery has been greatly 
damaged by the erection of a saw-mill, for whose benefit the falls are 
dammed above. The Smugglers^ Notch is a romantic pass between the Chin 
Peak of Mt. Mansfield and Sterling Mt. (3,500 ft. high). It is 9 M. from 
StowT, andagoodroad leads to a small liotel in the Notch, near the great 
spring which is the source of the Waterbury River. A horse-path beyond 
tliQ hotel leads in ^ M. to Berton's Rock, a boulder weighing about 100 
tons, which fell from the abrupt cliffs that tower on each side to the 
height of 1,000 ft. A little way beyond, the path begins to descend to 
the plains of Cambridge. This pass was used during the War of 1S12 for 
smuggling goods between Central Vermont and Canada. A few miles N. 
is Daniel's Notch, between Sterling Mt. and the lofty White Face. Bing- 
ham's Falls, 5 M. from Stowe, Morrisville Falls, 8 M., West Hill, 2 M., 
and Gold Bi'ook, 3 M., are often visited. 



BOSTON TO MONTHEAL. Route 29. 203 

Mount Mansfield. 

This is the loftiest of tlie Green Mts., aud its highest peak is 4,348 ft. 
above the sea. As seen from above Stow it presents the appearance of 
the profile of a human face, the S. peak being the forehead, the middle 
peak the nose, and the N. peak the chin. 

After leaving Stowe, the highway is followed for 5 M., and then a 
mountain road turns to the 1., ascending tlirough the forest, 2^ M., to the 
Half- Way House, from which a pretty valley view is gained. Here 
begins the long and arduous ascent to the Summit House. The forest 
dwindles away until tlie road reaches the Nose. 

The Sam.mit House 
is a commodious hotel (for 100 guests ; S 3.50 a day) situated at the base 
of the Nose,^ wliich is climbed by a steep path on itsAV. slope (2-300 ft. 
high). On tlie E. side of this peak is the rock-iirofile called the " Old 
Man of the Mt." Alwut 2 M. of steady, though not fatiguing a.scent 
leads from the house to the Chin, passing over ledges marked by long 
scratches once received from rocks fixed in drifting icebergs, which passed 
over the silent waves of some shoreless primeval sea. The Chin is 340 ft. 
higher than the Nose, and is 3,800 ft. above Stow, and 4,34S ft. above 
the sea. This peak offers a more extensive northern view than that from 
the Nose (with an impressive view down the Notch), and is easily visited, 
although parties who go out to it usually stop over night at the Summit 
House, thereby gaining the superb eftects of sunset aud sunrise. 

The * * view from the Nnse is very similar to that fmin the Chin, and is, iierhaps, 
the noblest (though not the most extensive) in New Eughxnd. On the S. arc seen 
Camel's Hump (15 M.) and Killington Peidv (fiu M.), with a great number of name- 
less peaks and ridges of the Green Mts. Tlie great Lake Champlain litis the 
horizon from S. W. to N. W., being visible through tlie greater part of its extent, 
with the ancient blue Adirondacks lifting their ciouddike summits beyond. The 
apparently level lowlands of the Champlain valley are spread out like a map 
below, dotted with numerous white villages (beyond which is Burlington), and 
crossed by many streams. The great grazing district of the Lamoille valley 
stretches away to the N. W. and glimpses of the sparkling rivers, tlie Lamoille 
and the Winooski, are caught through the forests and foot-hills of the Green Mts. 
Far in the N. is the St. Lawrence River, with its valley dotted with Norman 
villages, and on the N. W., with a powerful glass and on a clear day, it is said that 
visitors have seen Mount Royal and tlie shining tin roofs of Montreal. E. of N., 
Jay Peak and Owl's Head Mts. are seen, the latter rising from Lake Mem- 
phremagog, while still farther to the E. are Hor and Annanance, tlie mountains 
about Willoughliy Lake. Fnrthev to the r. are the Percy Peaks, and a little S. of 
E. the Francouia and White Mts. are seen low-lying on the horizon, 60 M. 
distant. 

4 i\[. beyond Waterbury, on the main line, is N. Duxhury ($7 a week), 
■whence a road runs to Camel's Hump, G .M. S. The road has been built 
3 M. up the mountain, and the i-emainder of tlie ascent is by a vague path. 
Tlie best path is fnmi Huntington (8 M. Ijy ttage from Richmond). Tliere 
is a small house for shelter 1 M. from the suinniit. The mountain is 4,083 
ft. high, and from its isolated position commands an extensive view, whose 



204 Route 29. ST. ALBANS. 

general features are much like those of the prospect from Mt. Mansfield. 
Tlie name Camel's Hump is clei'ived from a supposed resemblance of tiie 
outline of the mountain to that of the back of a camel. The peak is visible 
from scores of miles away. 

Near N. Duxburj', seen from the track (to the N.), are the BuUon Falls, 
amiil some wild rock-scenery in a deep ravine on the Winooski River. 
The line now follows the picturesque valley ot the Wiuooski by Bultun 
(Bishop House, $7 a Aveek) to Juncsville, whence stages run to N. Bol- 
ton (under Mt. Mansfield). Station, Jiichmund (Richmond House), a 
bright village in the widenings of the Winooski valley, with an extensive 
trade in butter and cheese. The mountain-ravines open out here on the 
Champlain valley, and the country becomes more thickly settled. A 
bridge, tiOO ft. long, over the Winooski, is now passed, and the train 
enters the farming town of Williston. For several miles, running N. W. 
from this station, fine views are afforded from the train, — the Green Mts. 
"with their two loftiest peaks looming up boldly on the r., while the distant 
Adirondacks are seen on the 1. Essex Junction is soon reached, whence 
trains run to Burlington (see Route 53) in 8 M., passing the remarkable 
gorges on the Winooski River. 

5 M. N. of Essex is Colchester, to the W. of which is a tall-spired 
village (Mallet's Bay Hotel), and still farther W. is IMaUet's Bay, which is 
nearly land-locked, has numerous islets, and aft'ords good bass and pike 
fishing. Frequent views of Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks, and the 
Green Mts. are obtained from the cars as they pass N. to Milton {Elm- 
Tree House ; Austin). This village is near the Great Falls of the Lamoille, 
7 M. from the river's mouth. The river descends here 150 ft. in SOO ft., 
and affords a water-power for the Milton lumber-mills. The train crosses 
the Lamoille River on a high bridge 450 ft. long, and stops at the station, 
Georgia and Fairfax. Georgia village (Franklin House), is 3^ M. from 
the station, and Fairfax (Fairfax House) is 4 M. E. of the station, to 
which it has a tri-daily stage. A small Baptist Theological School is 
located at Fairfax. 

St. Albans (* Wellen House, first-class, S 3 a day, -S 10 - 15 a week ; Amer- 
ican House) is a pretty village of about 7,000 inhabitants, situated on an 
elevated plain 3 M. from Lake Champlain. Main Street is the principal 
thoroughfare, and has several good commercial buildings. There is a 
neat park of 4 acres in the centre of the village, on whose sides are the 
hotels, the Franklin County buildings, the High School, and several 
chm'ches, the best of which is a Norman-towered Episcopal Church built 
of red sandstone. Back of this is the large Catholic Church and the 
Convent of Notre Dame. The offices of the Central Vermont R. R. 
occupy the spacious and imposing building at the station. In this 
vicinity are the immense repair and car-sliops of the Central Vermont, 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. Route 29. 205 

occupying over half a mile of buildingSj and employing several hundred 
skilful workmen. These works are the largest of the Icind in New 
England, and have turned out many locomotives and cars. The village 
has 3 banks, a daily and 2 weekly newspapers, 6 cliurchcs, and an 
admirable scliool-syslem. Tuesday is its maiket-day, when the farm- 
ers from Fraidvliu Co. congregate in the streets, and great quantities 
of dairy products are sold. The quotations of butter and cheese at St. 
Albans affect the market throughout the Eastern States, and vast quanti- 
ties of these products are shipped in ice-cars to the N. Atlantic cities 
(mostly to Boston). Between 1850 and 1865 St. Albans sent away 
33,603,041 pounds of butter, and 16,628,097 pounds of cheese, having a 
value of nearly .$12,000,000. N. of St. Albans are quarries of calico- 
stone and variegated marble, while a good sulphur-sprhig (appertahiing 
to the Welden House) is in the environs. 

" St. Albans is a place in the midst of greater variety of scenic beauty 
than any other tliat I remember in America. " (Beecher. ) Bellevice Bill, 
2 M. S. W. from the station, and Aldis Hill, 1 M. N. E. of the village, 
are easy of ascent, and command lovely views. * Bellevue is 1,300 ft. 
above the lake, and a good road leads to the summit. It overlooks the 
village and the rich plains of Franklin Co., strewn with villages, while a 
broad expanse of Lake Champlain is spread out in the W., the view ex- 
tending over Grand Isle to the New York shore. In the S. W. the 
Adirondacks rise, " not in chains or single peaks, but in vast broods, a 
promiscuous multitude of forest-clothed mountains. In the N. is scooped 
out, in mighty lines, the valley of St. Lawrence ; and in clear days, the 
eye may spy the faint glimmer of Montreal." (H. W. Beecher.) The 
Missisquoi valley is near, in the N., and Jay Peak lies to the E., from 
w]iich the great line of the Green Mts. stretches away to the S., and 
Mount Mansfield is plainly visible. To the S. is the fertile Lamoille 
valley, running through Fairfax and Milton. Aldis Hill is only 500 ft. 
high, and is easily ascended. Its view, tliough less extensive than that 
from Bellevue, is of rare beauty. Prospect Hill also gives a fine view. 



Stages run E. to Fairfield (8 M.) and Bakcrsfidd (14i M.). 

St. Albans was the scene of great excitement during the Canadian rebellion iu 
1837, and several raiding parties (of refugees) crossed tlie border from this vicinity. 
In October, 1864, several strangers boarded at tlie hotels for a few days, and 
learned the habits of tlie people. When the bells rang at 3 o'clock, on the lUth 
of Oct., these men entered the banks in parties, and robbed them of their funds, 
Avhile others of the liand arrested every citizen on the street. The robbers were 
22 in number, dressed in plain clothing and armed with revolvers, and, having 
S3cured what money they could, they stole a number of liorses and fled, closely 
pursued by the citizens. During the firing which toolc place in the streets, one 
citizen was killed and several wounded. The plundering jiarty (which was com- 
posed of escaped rebel i)risoners) reached Canada with $20S,00() in money, ;$ 80,000 
of which was returned to the banks by the British government. Iu June, 18(j6, 



206 Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

1,200 Fenians from the cities of the coast marched from this place into Canada, 
and plundered a village. The provisions of this party soon gave out, and thej 
returned to St. Albaiis, where they were disarmed by 1,000 U. S. troops, who 
were encani])ed on the village Park for 2 weeks. Anotlier fruitless raid was made 
in 1S70, wlien the Fenians were repulsed at the frontier by embattled Canadian 
farmeis. 

Tlie scenery at St. Albans Bay is very attractive, and sportsmen catch great 
quantities of bass and jiickerel aViout its picturesque islands ami points. Good 
trout-fishing is found in the brooks near the village, and water-fowl are shot 
about the Bay. The * Welden House charges § 3 a day, and $ 10 -15 a week. 

St. Albans to Rkhforcl. — The Missisquoi Railroad runs N. E. to Rich- 
ford in 2 hrs. Near Sheldon Springs station {Congress Hall, 125 guests; 
$ 2.50 a day, $ 10 - 15 a week) is the famous Missisquoi Spring, which has 
no distinctive taste, but is alkaline in character, and is efficacious in cutane- 
ous diseases. Several other mineral springs rise near by, one of which is 
cathartic, and is used for dyspepsia and liver complaints. The great hotel 
hei'e was burned in 1870, since which the springs have been less visited, 
though large quantities of the water are exported. The Sheldon Spring 
is I M. S. \V. ; the Vermont Spring is 2 M. above; and the Central Spring 
is 2 M. distant. 

The Vermont Spring waters are niostlj^ bottled and sent away, for the 
cure of diseases of the skin, cancer, &c. It is about 2 M. from the Mis- 
sisqnoi, and there are nnmeroxis other mineral springs, differing in their 
properties, about the village. The Continental, Central, and Excelsior 
are among the most noted, while Sheldon Spring, near the Missisquoi 
Falls, has long been visited. The * Congress Hall Hotel, located near 
the latter spring, is a large and first-class house. The water flows at the 
rate of 14,000 gallons a day, and contains a large amount of carbonate of 
soda with potash. "It is a very unusual alkaline, saline water, con- 
taining more silicic acid in solution than any on record. The presence of 
so much crenic acid is also remarkable, and, with the iron and magnesia, 
adds to the valuable constituents." (Dr. Hayes.) The hot and cold 
baths (in convenient bath-houses) w^ork wonderful cures in cases of rheu- 
matism, erysipelas and skin diseases, cancers and chronic ailments. From 
Dunton's Bill (1 M. from Congress Hall) a vast panoramic view of the 
Green Mts. is obtained, while the silver w'aters of Lake Champlain, in tlie 
W., are overlooked by the blue Adironacks. Considerable tracts of 
Lower Canada are included in this view, which is terminated on the N. 
by the spires of Montreal. The Missisquoi River falls 119 ft. near Shel- 
don Spring. At Sheldon village (Portland House), 4^ M. E., there are 
other hotels and boarding-houses. Here is the Central Spring, which, 
besides carbonates of lime, magnesia, iron, soda, and potassa, and sulphate 
of lime, contains the valuable element of phosphoric acid. It cures 
cutaneous and pulmonary affections, dyspepsia, rheumatism, kc. 

At Sheldon this line is crossed by the St. Johnsbury and Lake-Cham- 
plain R. R., running to Maquam Bay. 



BOSTON TO MONTREAL. Route 29. 207 

The line follows the ricli valley through several farming and dairy 
towns, passing the stations, E. Franklin, Enosburg Falls, Eoioshurg, and 
E. Berkshire, to Eiohford (American House), a thinly populated towii, 
on whose S. E. corner Jay Peak rises to an altitude of over 4,000 ft. 

The Soiith-Eastern Railway passes through Rinhford, and is a part of the Mon- 
treal & Boston Air Line. It runs N. and N. W. 3;3,V M. to W. Farnhani (in the 
Province of Quebec), whenre it is 40 M. by nil to Montreal. Toward the E. it 
reaches Newport, on Lake Mempliremagog, in 31^ M. 



Soon after leaving St. Albans, the main line passes Swanton Junction, 
where a railroad diverges to Rouse's Point and Ogdensburg. 

This line passes tlirough Swanton (Central House), a prettj' village with a 
Soldiers' Monument on its Green, consisting of a statue (in Vermont marble) of 
the Goddess of Liberty on a pedestal of gray Isle La Motte marble. Swanton 
was settled by tlie French in 1750, but tliey wei-e crowded oat within a half-cen- 
tury. Much marble, black, wliite, and red variegated, is quarried in this town. 
After crossing Missisquoi ISay on a trestle-i)ridge, the train stops at Albiirgli 
Springs (*Alburgh Springs House), whose mineral waters are much used for 
cutaneous complaints. The drives on the lake sliore are very pleasant, and fisli- 
ing and lioating are favorite summer amusements. The i>eninsuIaof Alhurgh was 
granted by tlie King of France, as a feudal seigniory, to Councillor Foucault, un- 
der whose orders it was settled in 1731. It was occu]iied by loyalist refugees late 
in the Revolutionary Era, and in 1837 was one of the frontier towns from which 
the insurgents in the " Pati'iot War" made tlieir raids into Canada. 

Passing tlie stations, Alhurgh and W. Alburgli, the line (U'osses Lake Champlain 
at its N. end on a long trestle-bridge. Fort 3Iont{joinery is seen on the r., com- 
manding the Richelieu River. After the works on this fort liad gone on for some 
time, it was discovered to be in British territory, but a generous cliauge of boun- 
dary gave the land to the United States, and the work was completed. On the 1. 
Isle La Moite may be seen far down the lake. 

Rouse's Point (New York) is now readied. From this point the line runs 
W. tlnxuigh the Cluiteaugay Woods, passing Malone and Potsdam, to Ogdens'ourg, 
406 M. from Boston and 141 M. froin St. Albans. Anotiier railroad rims N. on 
the 1. bank of the Riclielieu River, to St John's (23 M.). 

After passing Swanton Junction and E. Swanton, the train on the main 
line stops at Ilighgate Springs (* Franklin House). The hotel is on one 
side of the track, and the spring-house on the other. The spring is alka- 
line, containing chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, and sulphate of 
soda. E. of the Spiings is the broad and beautiful Missisquoi Bay (Missi 
Kisco — much water-fowl), which is nearly land-locked, and abounds in 
fish. The Franklin House accommodates IGO (^2.b0 a day ; $;10-15 a week). 
2-3 M. S. E. is a consideralde village at ITiylujate Falls, on the Missis- 
quoi River. The alkaline Champlain Spring is located here (Champlain 
House, Green Mt. House, both fronting on the village park), and is con- 
sidered a specific for dyspepsia, cutaneous eruptions, cancer, and con- 
sumption. Alburgli Springs on the W. and Missisquoi Springs on the S. 
E., are within easy distance of Highgate. Highgate was the birthplace 



208 Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 

of John G. Saxe, whose poems of humor and pathos are widely known 
and read. 

About 3 M. beyond Highgate, the train leaves the United States, and 
enters Missisquoi County, in the Anglo-Canadian Province of Quebec. 
Stations, St. Armand, Moore's, and Stanhridge, on the plains of the Rich- 
elieu River. Stanbridge is a neat village, from which stages run to E. 
Stanbridge (3 M.) and Bradford. As the line passes farther out on the 
plains, the great isolated mountains of Rougemont and Belceil are seen on 
the r. On Bekeil the Bishop of Nancy had an immense cross erected in 
1843, which was visible for many leagues. It was demolished by a storm 
in 1847. Stations, Des Rivieres, St. Alexandre, beyond wliich the train 
passes the junction of the Stanstead, Shefford, and Chambly Railroad, 
running from St. Johns E. to Waterloo, 43 M. Stages from Waterloo to 
Lake Memphremagog in 20 M. The line now crosses the Richelieu River 
to St. Johns, a quaint, old-fashioned, Norman-French village near the 
head of the Chambly Rapids. The town is situated on a level plain, and 
is connected Avith the suburb of St. Athanase by a fine bridge over the 
Richelieu. There is good fishmg by boat near St. Johns, and the few visi- 
tors who stop at this quiet old town usually ride to Chambly, a pleasant 
village near the confluence of the Richelieu and Montreal Rivers, It is 
12 M. N. of St. Johns by the river-road, and is on a lake-like expansion 
of the river, called Chambly Basin. The Richelieu flows toward the N. 
E. almost parallel with the St. Lawrence which it joins at Lake St. Peter, 
70 M. distant. 

Chambly was fortified by tlie French in 1711, and in 1775 it had a strong stone 
fort Iniilt by the British, vvitli massive towers at its angles. Large supplies were 
stored here'; but the commander was so careless that the fort was easily taken by 
the Americans in October, 1775. It was abandoned on the advance of Burgoyne, 
having first been stripped of its stores, and has since served (until the English 
military evacuation of Canada) as an exerci.sing-ground for the Montreal garrison. 
In the erypt of the Catholic Cliurch is buried De Salaberry, Seigneur of Chambly, 
who connnanded the Canadians in the battle of Chateaugay (War of 1812), when 
a large invading force of Americans was resisted with such valor and success that 
Ue Salaberry ever after bore the title of " tlie Canadian Leonidas." 12 M. Ironi 
Chambly is Belceil Mt. 

Other excursions from St. Johns are to Scotch Mt. (6 M. over a good road), which 
commands a fine view of the Green Mts. and the border Townships ; and to the 
Clmmhly FMpids on the Richelieu. 

The Marquis of Montcalm built a fort at St. Johns, which was strengthened by 
Gov. Carleton. Benedict Arnold's American fleet was repulsed in an attack in 
1775, but tlie fort was besieged by Gen. Montgomery in Seiitember of the same 
year, antl, after six weeks of blockade and cannonade, it surrendered, with COO 
British regulars and 4S heavy cannon. The American garrison evacuated the post 
on the advance of Gen. Burgoyne. 

At St. Johns the train moves on to the rails of the Grand Tnmk Rail- 
way (Montreal and Rouse's Point Division), and passes through the fair 
and fertile plains of the Parish of La Prairie to St. Lambert, opposite 
Montreal. The St. Lawrence River is crossed by the wonderful * Victoria 
Bridge, and the train stops at Montreal (see Route 54), 



WEIRS. Route 30. 209 



30. Boston to the Franconia Mts. 

By the Boston and Lowell and Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroads. Parlor 
cars run from Boston without change. Boston to Plymouth (123 M.)iu 5 hrs. ; 
to the Twin Mt. House (20o M ) in abuut 8 hrs. The branch road from Wing Road 
to Bethlehem runs to the Fabyan llou.^e and the base of Mt. Wasliiiigton. i'rom 
Bethlehem Junction narrow-gauge lines to Bethlehem and Profile llou.se. 

The train leaves the Lowell station at 8, or 8.30 A.M., and passes to 
Concord by Route 29, through Lowell and Manchester. 

After leaving Concord, the line crosses the Merrimac, and passes E. 
Concord, iV._ Concord, Canterbury (stages to Shaker village, 1 h M-)i North- 
field, and Tiltow {Dexter J/oii^e), the .seat of the N. II. Seminary and Fe- 
male College. On the hill aljove is a huge Roman memorial arch, 55 ft. 
high, of granite, erected in 1882-83, to commemorate the lilton family. 

Daily stages run from Tilton tlu-ough Gaza to New Hampton, 13^ M. N., the 
picturesque location of a Free-Wiil Baptist school; to Franl:lin Falls, 3 M. W. ; 
and to Giliiiaiitoii {Prospect H^iusc), a far-viewing hill-village, lU .\i. E.,the 
seat of Oilman ton Academ3^ John L. Stoddard lives here, and says: "Perched on 
the spur of a long range of mts., the situation of CHlmanton is unique. I can limk 
off on an unbroken panorama of distant peaks cutting tlie horizon through a circuit 
of ISO degrees ; or, from Mt. Washington in the N. to Mt. Monaduuck in the S." 
Near Tilton was the largest Indian fortress in New England, lines of iutreuchments 
laced with stone, and once palisaded. Some remnants remain. 

The line now passes along the shores of Wiiinepesaukee River, Little 
Bay, and Great Bay. Stations, Union Village and Laconia (Willard 
Hotel), whose factories turn out yearly 1,500,000 yards of fancy cloths, 
275,000 dozen hose, and 3-400 railroad cars. From this point an inter- 
esting excursion may be made to the summit of Mt. Belknap (S^ M. dis- 
tant), on the shore of the lake. From this commanding peak the lake 
may be seen tliroughout nearly its entire extent, and views af the mts. 
beyond and of the pretty village of Wolflioro are obtained. Laconia is 
on the shore of Lake Winnesquam (Great Bay), a picturesque sheet of 
water on the 1. of the line. After leaving Laconia, the line passes along 
Sanbornton Bay to Lake Village (Mt. -Belknap House), Avhich has small 
hosiery factories, a needle-factory, and the railroad repair-shops. The 
quiet waters of Long Bay are now skirted, on the r. bank, with the 
peaks of Mt. Belknap beyond. Weirs (see p. 216) has a fine view out over 
Lake Winnepesardcee, Steamers leave this point for the villages on the 
lake (see Route 32), and N. Conway may be reached by ci'ossing to Wolf- 
boro, and taking the cars on Route 31. Near Weirs, on the N. shore of 
the outlet, is the Eiidicott Rock, which is about 20 ft. around, and is 
carved with the initials of the chiefs of the colonial survey of 1G52, and 
with the words, "John Endicut, Gov." The train passes N., with the 
lake on the r., to Meredith (Elm House). The great summer- resort at 
Centre Harbor is 5 M. from Meredith, by a good road ; and the pictu- 
resf^ue Meredith Neck is near by, on the S. E. 

The train now passes Waukawan Lake, on the r., which is 4 M. long 



210 Route 30. PLYMOUTH. 

and 1-2 M. broad. Waukawan is a name given to this lake by the 
Indians, and now useil by summer visitors, though the rustics wlio 
live in the vicinity call it Measley Pond. Long Pond is now passed, 
and the train stops at Ashland (Squam Lake House), a small factory- 
village near the confluence of the Squam and Pemigewasset Rivers, and 4 
M. from the lovely Squam Lake (see Pv-oute 32). This is in the ancient 
Episcopal town of Holderness, and the road along Squam Lake exhibits 
some of the richest scenery in the country. The Pemigewasset is now 
crossed near BiiJgewater station, and its valley is followed to Plymouth 
(* Pemigewasset House, 150 rooms, a first-class summer hotel, where the 
midday trains stop 30 minutes for passengers to dine: Little's Hotel). 
Plymouth, the shire-town of Grafton County, is a beautiful village in the 
midst of attractive scenery, near the confluence of the Pemigewasset and 
Baker's Rivers. It has a lai'ge country trade, and is noted for its manufac- 
ture of fine buckskin gloves. Walker's Hill overlooks the village and valley, 
while Mt. Prospect (4 M. N. E. ; carriage-road to the summit) commands 
an extensive prospect. On the S. is the valley of the Pemigewasset 
(" Place of crooked pines "), with its broad, rich intervales, while numer- 
ous well-known peaks extend between Monadnock in the S. W. and 
Moosilauke in the N. W. The N. is filled with the lofty summits of the 
Franconia and the White Mts., prominent among which is Mt. Lafayette. 
Osceola and White Face are in the N. E., and just below the Squam 
Range in the E. is the beautiful, island-dotted Squam Lake. To the S. 
E. are the bright waters of Winnepesaukee, with Mt. Belknap looking 
over them. Mt. Prospect is 2,072 ft. above the sea, and possesses several 
other objects of interest, — the Miser's Cave, the Avalanche, and the Cold 
and Boiling Springs. 

The drive around Plymouth Mt. is a favorite excursion, and the view 
from its summit is pleasant, embracing many of the features of tlie view 
from Mt. Prospect, tliough heavy forests cover most of it. 2 M. N. of 
Plymouth are the L'wermare Falls. From Plymouth to Squam Lake it 
is 7 M. ; to Newfound Lake, 9 ?-[. ; to Centre Harbor, 14 M. 

Capfc. Baker, of Newbury, -with a comprxny of Mass. Kangers, attackeil an Indmn 
village near the couIluonLe of the river which now bears his name with the P( inipre- 
wasset River. After killini;; many of the villagers, the Rangers plundered the place, 
and theii retreated, being vainly attacked afterwards on the plains of Bridgewater. 
Plymouth was settled in iTfii. The house still stands here (now a library) in which 
Daniel ^Vebster made bis first plea before a jury. Nathaniel Hawthorne died in this 
Tillage Mny 19, IS^il. 

1 M. out is the Holderness School for Bovs, a famous Episcop-.l School, beautifully 
situated, on an estate of 15 acres. About 5 M. from IMyiuouth (stage fron\ Ashland, 
4 M.) is the Asquani House, a summei'-hotel on the crest of the far-viewing 
Shepard Hill, over Squam Lake. 

The new Pemigeirnsset- J^aUejf R. R runs N. from Plymouth to Liv-rmore. 2 M. ; 
Campton. 4'r ; Ciimpton Village, 7^ ; Thornton, 9; W Thornton. 13A : Woodstock, 
16J ; and N. Woodstock, 20^. Stages for the sunnner hoarding-houses connect at 
the stations; !ind from the N. terminus run to the Flume and Profile Houses. 
This route supplants the favorite old staging route up the valley, famous for its 
noble views. 



MOOSILAUKE MT. Route 30. 211 

After leaving Plymouth, the railroad follows tlie valley of Baker's 
River for 20 M. Station, Rmnney (Slinson House), S. of Stinson's Mt. 
and Pond, Avliich were named in memory of a hunter who was killed here 
l)y the Indians. The village is nearly 1 M. from the station. Saw-mills, 
tanneiies, and charcoal-works abound in the town. Stations, W. Rur/i- 
neij and Wentwurth (Union Hotel), a village on fair intervales, and sur- 
rounded by high hills. Carr's Mt. is on the E., and Mt. Cuba on the W. 

Warren {Langdun House) is a glen village, from whicli a very good 
road leads in 10 M. to the top of Moosilauke Mountain (Tip-Top House 
comfortable, $3 a day; fare by stage, up and back, S3). On the slope 
of the nit., 5 M. frum Warren, is the Mountuiii House (.15 7 -10 a week) 
1,681 ft. high, and free from hay-fever. This is one of the iioblest trips in 
New England, to the tup of Mousiluuke. 

From its isolated positiuu and great height (4,811 ft.), this peak 
commands a grand and unique * view. In the S. are the hill towns of 
Grafton County, with nnmerous prominent and well-known peaks rising 
over them. Beyond Owl's Head, on tlie W., considerable portions of the 
Green Mis. may be seen on a clear day. In the N. W. is part of the 
Connecticut valley, and one or two Canadian peaks are seen in tlie 
remote N., while nearer at liand are the Pemigewasset Mts. A noble 
panorama of mts. extends from Sugar Loaf (W. of N.) to the white peak 
of Cliocoriia (S. of E.), embracing the chief summits of the White aivl 
Franconia Ranges. On the S. E. is the shining surface of Lake Yv^inne- 
pesaukee, and in the same direction some portion of the State of Maine is 
visible. 

From Peaked Hill, near the village hotel, a good view of Moosilauke is 
obtained. Carr's IVIt., Webster's Slide, and Owl's Head are also in War- 
ren, while on Hurricane Brook are numerous picturesque cascades, known 
as Fairy, Roeky, Oak, Wolf's-Head, Waternomee, and llui-ricane Falls. 
Diana's Wash-Bowl is a sequestered basin on the same ci\H'k. 

Station, E. Haverhill, beyond which the line traverses the glen of the 
Oliverian Brook, with Webster's Slide Mt. on the 1. and the precipitous sides 
of OavI's Head on the r. Station, Haverhill (Exchange House), a pretty 
village on a hill near the trade, with the Grafton County buildings. Just 
across tlie river is the village of Newbury (see Route 24), which may be 
seen irom the ]. as the train skirts the rich intervales, and passes to N. 
Haverhill, a small village near the Ox Bow Bend of the river. 

At Woodsville [Mt-Gardner House, ^-2 a day) the train crosses the 
Connecticut, and connects with the Passiimpsic and Wells-liiver Railroads 
at Wells River (Coosuck House), afterwards returning across the bridge, 
and ascending the Ammonoosuc Valley to Bath, a fine old farming villa^^ge 
in a picturesque glen. Lisbon (Bri(jham's Hotel) is a gold-mining vil- 
lage, with daily stages to Lyman (4^ M.) and Sugar Hill (7 M.). 



212 Route 30. LANCASTER. 

Littleton {Thayer's UnU:}, SlO-18 a week; Onlc-U'dl House, on far- 
viewing heights, .t^S-H a week; Mountain Hume, $6-10 a week; and 
iiiaiiy summer boarding-houses near by) is a pretty and prosperous vil- 
lage, with 3,500 inhabitants, 6 churehes, 2 papers, high-school, bank, 
30-40 stores, 4 large glove-factories, and Kilburn's stereoscopic-view es- 
tablishment, the largest in the world. It was incorporated in 1764, under 
the name of Chiswick ; and borders 15 M. on the Conn. River. The 
village is on the Ammonoosuc. From the hills in the vicinity, tine pano- 
ramic views of the White and Fraaconia Mts. may be obtained. 

Stations, Wing Road, where trains connect for Bethlehem, Profile 
House, Fabyan House, and the base of Mt. Washington ; Whitefield. 
(Cai'letun House), wlience branch line to Jefl"erson ; and Dalton, near the 
Coiniectieut. Stations, S. Lancastti' (stage to Lunenburg, 2 M.), and 

Lancaster (* Lancaster House, 120-130 guests, at $^2-3.00 a day), 
a beautiful village on a broad plain near the river. It has about 
2,500 inhabitants, 2 weekly papers, and 6 churches. This is a favorite 
summer-resort, " and in the combined charm, for 'vwalks or rides, of 
meadow and river, — the charm, not of wildness, but of cheerful bright- 
ness and beneficence, — Lancaster is unrivalled. " (Starr King. ) Steb- 
hms" Hill, near the village, commands an extensive view ; while the drive 
around Mt. Prospect {2- 2>\\v?..) in much esteemed. The rapids on the 
Connecticut are reached by a fine road over the intervales (6 M.). The 
riverw^ard roads are level and smooth, revealing fine distant views, the 
best of which is obtained from the Lunenburg Hills, beyond the river in 
Vermont. To the E. and N. E. of Lancaster are the dark and unexj)lored 
Pilot Mts., whose main peak is sometimes ascended by a path leading 
from the hamlet of Lost Nation, yielding a broad view over the upper 
Coos country and the mountain-walls to the S. and S. E. Israel's River 
unites vd\\\ the Connecticut near the village, after flowing down a pictur- 
esque valley from its source near Mt. Madison. Sir Charles Dilke says 
that " the world can show few scenes more winning than Israel's River 
valley, in the White Mts. of N. H., or N. Conway, in the S. slopes of the 
same chain." The stream is named for an old hunter who was one of the 
pioneers of the Coos country, but tiie melodious Indian name is preferable, 
— Singrawack, " the foaming stream of the white rock." " Grand combi- 
nations of the river and its meadows v/ith the Franconia Range and the vast 
White Mt. wall are to be had in short drives beyond the river, upon the 
Lunenburg Hills." A new hotel has recently been built on the top of 
Mt. Prospect ($21 a week). 7 M. from Lancaster is Jefferson Hill, famous 
f(»r its grand mountain-views. 

Beyond Lancaster the railroad follows the Connecticut River for 10 M., 
and connects with the Grand Trunk Railway (Route 40) at Groveton. 



ROCHESTER. Route 31. 213 



31. Boston to the White Monntains. 

By the Eastern Railmad to N. Conway (137 M.) in 5 his., fare, §5.00 ; to the 
Crawford House (102 M.) in 12 hrs., tare" S8.6i) ; to the Glen House (157 M.) in 
11 hrs., fere §7.00. This is tlie quickest and nearest route to the White Mts., and 
rims two Pullman express trains daily in summer. 

The train leaves the Eastern station in Boston (on Causeway, at tlie foot 
of Friend St.), and passes out over the Charles River. Boston to Comvay 
Junction, see Route 37 (the j^rincipal stations ai'e Chelsea, Lynn^ Salem, 
Ipswich, Newbm-yport, Hampton, and Portsmouth). Beyond Conway 
Junction the train passes the stations, S. Berioick, Salmon Falls, and 
Great Falls. At the latter village are extensive cottou-factories, employ- 
irg 3,000 hands, and consuming 7,700 bales of cotton yearly. Station, 
Eochester {Dodge's Hotel ; Mansion House)., a village on Norway Plains, 
with several factories near the falls on the Cocheco River. The town has 
3 banks, 8 chiirches, and over 6,000 inhabitants. Over 2,000,000 yards 
of flannel are made here yearly, with 400,000 pairs of shoes, 100,000 pairs 
of blankets, and 2,000,000 bricks. Rochester was settled in 1728, and its 
people kept constant vigil for nearly half a century, being often attacked 
by the Indians. John P. Hale, a prominent leader in the antislavery 
movement, and U. S. Senator for 16 years, was born here in 1806. 

Tlic Portland and Rocliester Railroad runs from this village across the centre of 
York County to Portland (52 M. ; fare, 551.55). Stations, E. Eochester, E. Leba- 
non, and Springvale, a village in Sanford, wliich was bought of the Sagamore 
Fluellen in 16G1. Stages run from Springvale to Shai>leigh, and to NeVfleld, 
where tlie 'Mt. Eagle Tripoli is made, and large carriage-factories are located. 
Station, Alfred {Central House; County House), a pleasant village on a level 
plain, containing the York County huildings, and named in honor of King Alfred 
of I*;ngland. The line next crosses the towns of Waterborough and HoUis, and 
the Saco River. Station, Buxton (Berry's Hotel), tlie old Narragansett, No. 1, 
which was named in compliment to Paul Coffin, its pastor for 40 years, whose 
ancestors came from Buxton in England. Tliis town Avas one of tlie 7 granted by 
Mass. to the victorious soldiers of King Philip's War, and 9 more were granted 
to tlie veterans of the Canada War of 1095. The soldiers were thus compensated 
for their labors, and at the same time the distressed and war-swept settlements 
on the Maine coast were shielded by a double tier of towns inhabited by hardy 
and fearless veterans. Buxton has 4 villages, with extensive lumber-mills. Stages 
run to Cornish and Liniington. Station, Gorhani (Clement House), the 7th town 
granted to the veterans of 1675, and named for Caiit. Gorham, whose company 
lost 36 killed and 41 wounded at the Narragansett Fort Figlit. Station, Sacarappa, 
a manufacturing village which for 50 years sent vast amounts of lumber to Port- 
land and Havana. The Cumberland Mills turn out §l,00i),0()0 worth of paper 
annually. After running across the populous town of Westbrook, the train ap- 
proaches Bramhall Hill, and passes into the terminal station at Portland. 

After leaving Rochester, the White-^It. train passes Hayes, and stops 
at Milton {Glendale House; Tri-Mountaln House), a (piiet farming 
town near the Sidmon-Falls River. Mt. Teneriffe, seen on the 1., is as- 
cended from Milton. Station, Union (Union House), beyond which Cop[)le- 
Crown Mt. appears in the W. 



214 Route 31. CONWAY. 

From ^Volfboro Junction a branch railroad runs (in 12 M.) to Wolflioro, on 
Lake Wiimeitesuukfc (..->fc Ko^ae 32), in tlie Litter part of its course skirting 
Smith's Pond, and stopping near tlie wharf of the Lake steamers. 

Stations, Wakefield, E. Wakefield, and N. Wakefield, to the E. of 
which is Lake Newicliawaniiock (East Pond), which is 3 M. long and 1 
M. wide. Stations, Ossipee and Ossipee Centre (two inns), the shire- 
town of Cari'oll County. A glimpse of Ossipee Lake is gained on the r. , 
bej'ond this station, with Green Mt. on its farther shore. Ruuniiig N. 
with Ossipee Mt. on the 1., the train reaches W. Ossipee, 
from which fine excursions may be made to Ossipee Lake, Sandwich 
Notch, and Mt. Chocorua (see page 220). Madison Plains are next 
traversed, with the broad sheet of Six Mile Pond glittering among the 
forests on the r. and Legion Mt. far beyond. On the 1. is the weird peak 
of Chocorua, to whicii Starr King has applied the adjectives, "gallant, 
hauglity, rugged, torn, proud-peaked, desolate, proud and lonely, tired." 

Stations, Madison and Comony (* Conway liouse; Pequawket House; 
Grove House). This village is situated on rich level land, and has many 
charming rural scenes along the winding Saco. From its air of tran- 
qiiillity and pastoral seclusion, this handet of Chatauqiie is j^referred to 
N. Conway by those who seek quiet and rest, and are regardless of bril- 
liant society. Excursions are made from tills point to ■'■ Chocorua Lake, 
8-9 M. distant, under the mt. of the same name; to Conway Centre and 
Fryel;urg (see Route 39), in the N. E. ; to Chatham, by the long, strag- 
gling village of Conway Street, between the Green Hills and the Maine 
border; to Champney's Falls, ascending the Sv/ift River valley to the W. ; 
and to the Cathedral, Echo Lake, and Diana's Bath. Tlie last-named 
places are as near to Chatauque as to N. Conway, and the fording of the 
river is avoided. There are fine views of the White Mts. from this vil- 
lage, with the Moat ]\rt. looming in the N. W. Beyond Conway the 
train runs N. for 5 M., much of the way being over embankments and 
trestles on the Saco intervales. Moat Mt. is now approached on the 1., 
and Kiarsarge appears on the r. Soon after crossing the Saco, a white 
village is seen on the hillside, the tower of the Kiarsarge House is ap- 
proached on the r., and the train stops at N. Conway (see Route 33). 

The chief stage-connections on this route are: Daily from Rochester to Strafford 
Corner (4 M.) and Barnstead (16 M.) ; Union Yilbige to Middleton (3 M.), and 
semi-daily to Milt«>u Mills {Central House), 5 M., where blankets and felting 
are made; daily from Wolfeboro Junction, 2i M. N W. to J.roolfield ; daily from 
E Wakefield to'N. Shai>leigh (9 M.), W. Newfield ,5 M. , and N. Farsonsfield (15 M.), 
and Eiiiugham (17 M. N.); tri-weekly from Ofisipee to Wolfeboro (lU JI.), and Tuf- 
tonboro (6 M.); daily from Centre Ossipee to Moultouville (1 M.), Ernnglnm Fails 
(6 M.), and Fi-eeilom (S M.) ; daily from W. Ossipee to Tamworth (4 M.), Tamworth 
Iron Works (4 M.), N Sandwich (10 M.), Sandwich (16 M.), Moultonboro (,19 M,), 
and Centre Harbor (24 M); from Madison, daily, to E. Madison (^6 M.) ; from Con- 
way, daily, to Eaton Centre (6 M.) and Centre Conway (.2i- M.). 



LAKE WINNEPE3AUKEE. Route 32. 215 



32 Lake Winnepesaukee and the Sandwich Mountains. 

From Boston to the Lake : (a) By Routes 29 and 30, through Lowell and Con- 
cord to Weirs, whence the steamer "Lady of the Lake" runs to Centre Harbor 
and Woltljoro. Boston to Weirs, 105 M. 

(b) By Route 38, through Lawrence and Dover to Alton Bay, whence the 
steamer "Ml. \*aslungtou" runs to WulfDoro and Centre Harbor. Jioston to 
Alton Bay, 90 M. 

(f) By Routes 31 and 37, throui^^h Salem and Portsmouth to Wolflioro, where 
both the steamers touch, and from wliich all the lake-villages maybe visited. Bos- 
ton to Wolfboro, 106 M. (in 4^ hrs. by the Pullman express train in the morning). 

Lake Winnepesaukee is in tlie counties of Carroll and Belknap, in tlie 
State of N. H., and is 25 M. long by 1-7 M. wide, containing G9 square 
miles. It is 472 ft. above the sea, and its waters of crystalline purity re- 
flect the shadows of several bold mountains, and surround nearly 300 
islands, great and small. 8 towns rest aroimd it, having an 

aggregate population of 14,000 on about 200 square nules of territory; 
and Ijut few and small are the villages along the curiously indented shores. 
The waters of tiie lake are discharged by tlie Winnepesaukee River, 
which unites with the Pemigewasset to form the Merriniac, and passes 
into the ocean at Nev/buryport. Winnepesaukee is an ancient Lidian 
word wliicli is popiilarly supposed to mean " The Smile of the Great 
Spirit," although some inter^Dret it as " Pleasant Water in a High Place." 

" Tlicre may be lakes in Tyrol and Switzerland which, in i>articular respects, 
exceed tlie charms of any in the Western world. But in th.-it wedding of the 
land with the water, in Avliieh one is perpetually approaching and retreating from 
the other, and each transforms itself into a thousand figures for an endless dance 
o, grace and beauty, till a countless multitude of shapes are arranged into perfect 
ease and freedom, of almost nuisical motion, nothing can be held to surpass, if to 
match, our W^innepesaukee." (Bartol.) 

"I have been something of a traveller hi our own country, — though far less 
than I could wi.sh, — and in Europe have seen all that is most attractive, from 
the Highlands of Scotland to the Golden Horn of Constantinople, from the sum- 
mit of the Hartz Mountains to the Fountain of Vaucluse ; but my eye has yet to 
rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Weirs 
Landing to Centre Harbor." (Edward Everett.) 

" Looking up to the broken sides of the Ossipee Mts. that are rooted in the 
lake, over which huge shadows loiter ; or back to the twin Belknap hills, which 
appeal to softer sensibilities with their verdured symmetry ; or farther down, 
upon the charming succession of momids that hem the shores near Wolfboro ; or 
northward, where distant Chocorua lifts his bleached head, so tenderly touched 
now with gray and gold, to defy the hottest sunlight, as he has defied for ages 
the lightning and the storm, — does it not seem as though the passage of the 
Psalms is fulfilled before our eyes, — ' Out of the perfection of beauty God hath 
shined ' ? " (Thomas Starr King). 

The poetry of Percival and of Whittier has often been inspired by Winnepe- 
saukee. (See Whittier's poems, "The Lake-side," "Summer by the Lake," and 
others.) 

The steamer runs E. from Weirs, with Meredith Bay opening to the N. 
Mount Belknap is seen to tlie S., and Ossipee Mt. looms up across the 
lake in front. After passing Governor's Island on the S., the boat turns 
to the N, through a strait between Bear Island (3 M . from Weirs) and the 



21 G Route 32. CENTRE HARBOR. 

mainland. Just after passing this island, and when within 3 M. of 
Centre Harbor, the finest * view on the lake is obtained. The whole line 
of the Sandwich Mts. is seen in the N., between Ossipee on the r. and 
Red Hill on the 1., with Whiteface looming foremost, and "the haughty 
Choconia " leagues away to the N. E. 

TVesrs (Hotel JFeir.s, 150 guests; irt/,-e.sir7e, 200 guests ; JFinnecoeffe, ^7 -10 
a w(iek; Endicott ; Maplt' Cottaije), where the ntih-uad touches the lake, has 
within ten years become a famous summer rendezvous for temperauce men, war- 
veterans, Unitarian grove-meetiiigs, Universalists, Metliodists, Grangers, &c. , and 
has miles of avenues, cottages, and pavilions and a tall observatory. 

Steamboats run hence several times daily (in the season) to Lake Village, whence 
horse-cars to Lacnnia. 

Centre Harbor {*S(r.nter House. $3 a day, .'? 12-20 a week ; MoultoJi House, 
$8-12 a week; and many hoarding-houses) is 10 M. from Weirs, and has steam- 
boats leaving several times daily for \Vo!feboro, Weirs, AUon Rav, Long Island, &c. ; 
and daily stages for Moultonboro, Sandwich, W. Ossipee, and Ossipee Park. 

Centre Harbor is a small hamlet at the head of one of the 3 northeni 
bays of the lake. It was settled l)y Col. Senter in 1757, and was named 
in his honor, Init the improvement of the town has been slow, and in 
1870 it had only 446 iuhal)itants. There are pleasant drives from this 
village to Moultonboro, to Sandwich, and "around the ring," the latter 
being by a series of roads 4 M. long, passing by Red Hill and within sight 
of Squam Lake, and returning to the village. Centre Harbor Hill, 1 M, 
from the hotels, affords a fine lake prospect, recommended for its sunset 
views. But the main attraction of the place is the * ascent of Red Hill 
(2,000 ft. high). By the highway it is 4 M. to the foot of the hill, from 
which a bridle-path nearly 2 M. long reaches the summit. A road 2 M. 
shorter is available to the pedestrian, by passing out on the Sandwich 
road, taking the first farm-lane to the r. beyond the cemetery and cross- 
roads, and crossing straight to Red Hill by means of quiet, rural field- 
roads. The mountain-path soon turns to the r. from the highway (wliich 
is followed to the 1. after it is gained). Tlie hill is ascended to the first 
cottage, around whose upper corner the path bears sharply to the 1. The 
reddish sieuite ledges of the summit are gained liy a long climb through 
the forest, and here is seen the luxuriant uva ursce, wliose flame-red 
autumnal tints probably gave name to the mountain. The * * view from 
the sunmiit vies in beauty with that from Mount Holyoke, though of far 
diifei-ent character and devoid of historic charm. Lake Winnepesaukee is 
outstretched in the S. with leagues of bright waters and hundreds of 
islets, while the twin summits of IMt. Belknap are seen o^'er Centre 
Harbor, about 15 M. away. In the S. W. is Mt. Kearsai'ge, full 30 M. 
distant, while it is claimed that Monadnock (70 M. S. W. ) maybe seen in a 
clear day. In the W. is the lovely Scjuam Lake, winding like Winder- 
mere, among the hills, with numerous islands and white, sandy beaches, 
while beyond are the Squam Mts. and Mt. Prospect, near Plymouth. 

" The Mt. Washington range is not visible, being barred from sight by the dark 




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CENTRE HARBOR. Route 32. 217 

Sandwich Range, which in the afternoon, untouched by the liglit, wears a sava-e 
frown that contrasts most effectively with the placid beauty of the lake Ih-Iow 
Here is tlie place to study its borders, to admire tiie fleet of islands tliat ride at anl 
choron Its bosom, - froni little sliallops to grand three-deckers, - and to eni.,v the 
exquisite iiies by which its bays are infolded, iu which its coves retreat, an'lwith 
which Its low capes cut the azure water, and hang over it an emerald fringe " 

" Far to the south 
i ny slumbcnnrr wators floated, ohl' Ion? sheet 
Of hunnshed gold, - between ih\ nuarer shoreg 
hoftly enil)raced, and melting (iistaiitly 
Into a yellow liaze, embosomed low 
'Mid shadowy hiPs and misty moutitains, all 
Covered with showerv light, as with a veil 
Of airy gauze." — I'kucival. 

_ In the N. E tlie weird peak of Cliocorua is seen, and nearer at hand in the E 
Wh f T^'^' Q^""*^ '''T^^ O^^iyee. The central peak of tlie Sandwich Range is 
White Pace, Sandwich Dome holds tlie left, and the right extends from pSssa- 
c^nawaytoChocoma. The white village in the plain below is -Sandwich, wliHe 
the Bear Camp and Red Hill Pon.ls are seen in its vicinity. " Whoever ndsses 
tlie view from Red Hill loses the most fascinatingand thoroughly enjoyable vievv 
from a moderate mountain-height, that can be gained from any eininence thatS 
near the tourist's path." The afternoon is the best time for the excursion. 

*Squam Lake is 3-4 M. from Centre Harbor, and slioukl be visited 

for the sake of its sequestered h)veliness, its romantic islets, and its white 

strand. The Asquam House is a charming summer-hotel, 4 M. from Ashland. 

Plymouth is 14 M. N. W. of Centre Harbor, and is approached by a 

smooth but hilly road, passing through the romantically beautiful district 

formerly inhabited by the Squamscott Indians. This road skirts tha 

shores of Squam and Little Squani Lakes, and at about 5 M. from Centre 

Harbor, has a superb * view of Chocorua, 15 M. away, over the broadest 

part of Squam Lake. The road passes across the broad, ricli intervales 

of Holderiiess and Plymouth, with the Squam Mts. and Mt. Prospect on 

the r. 

On leaving Centre Harbor for Wolfboro, the steamer keeps a S. E. 
course, witli Ossipee Mt. on the E. over the low shores of Moultonboro 
Neck. A great archipelago of islands is passed, — islands which shall 
here be naineless, they being worse than nameless in the poverty of their 
liomely Saxon titles. About midway of the lake "the unmistakable 
majesty of Washington is revealed. There he rises, 40 M. away, tower- 
ing from a plateau built for his throne, dim green in the distance, except 
tlie dome that is crowned with winter, and the strange figures that are 
scrawled around his waist in snow." Fredrika Bremer sp'eaks of "the 
Olympian majesty of Mt. Washington " from this point. " Farther on, 
the summit of Chocorua is seen moving swiftly over lower ranges, and 
soon the whole mountain sweeps into view, startling you with its ghost- 
like pallor and haggnrd crest." On Long Island, nearly half-way down 
the lake, are the Island Home (60 guests), Long-Island House and Tip- 
Top House, much visited in summer. The Tip-Top is small, but commands 
a glorious view. The "mountains iu the N. change their relative positions 



218 Route o2. WOLFEBOKO. 

•svitli kaleidoscopic rapidity, and the imposing peaks of Mt. Belknap 
(whence is obtained tlie tinest lake-view) loom np ahead. After passing; 
these peaks the steamer rounds into Wolfeboro Bay, with Copple-Crowu 
Mt. on the r. 20 M. from Centre Harbor is the village of Wolfeboro. 

Hotels. * PavUion, 250 guests, 9? 10 - 17 a week ; Glemlon, 150 guests, ^9-15 
a wetk ; JJe/lerut\ !i?8-12 a week; Lake House. There are also many pleasaut 
and retired boardiug-houses in and near tlic village. 

Steaiiit'i-s leave for Alton Bay, Centre Harbor, and Weirs, several times daily. 

Ivailroad to N. Conway, I'ortsuiouth, and Boston. 

Stages run tri-weekly to Tti/tonboro, a stock-raising town 6 M. N. 

Wolfeboro was settled in 1770, and was the site of the line mansion of 

Gov. Sir Jolm Wentwortli. It is now a pleasaut village in a thriving 

town of about 2,200 inhabitants, with 2 banks and 3 churches. Its situ- 

atio'n on two long hills near the lake is very beautiful, and fine views are 

enjoyed of the Belknap Mts. across the water. Good lake-views may be 

had from the hills about the village, and also from Tumble-Do^vn Dick, a 

high eminence near the large Smith's Pond, E. of Wolfboro. But the 

best excursion is to C'o^J'jjZe Croum 3ft., about 7 M. S. E., by a road passing 

to S. Wolfboro. The carriage-road runs nearly to the summit (fare, $ 2.00 

from the hotel for each person of a party). Copple Crown is 2,100 ft. 

high, and furnishes from its summit a view of nearly the whole length of 

the lake, with Mt. Belknap near at hand in the N. W., and the heavy 

range of Sandwich looming above the head of the lake. Chocorua and 

Ossipee are close togetlier, a little W. of N., and on a clear day Mt. 

Washington may be seen beyond all, while tlie ocean is visible in tli(> 

opposite direction. 30 lakes and ponds are seen from Copple Cro\\ai, of 

which Ossipee, in tlie N., is one of the finest. 

The Wolfboro Branch of the Eastern Railroad runs to the N. Conway main line 
in 12 M. Two express trains leave for Boston daily,' making the distance (106 
M.) in 4-5 hrs. 

After leavhig Wolflooro the steamer follows a southerly course to Fort 
Point, where it turns by Little Mark Island into Alton Bay. This is a 
narrow estuary, 4-5 M. long, and bordered by high wooded hills of 
Trosach-like boldness. The steamer follows the sinuosities of this curi- 
ous inlet, and sometimes seems to be walled in, as neither way of ingress 
nor egress is seen. Mt. Major is ])asfied on the W. shore, and after many 
turns and bendings the last bluff is passed, and the hotel and station at 
the S. extremity of the lake are reached. Here is situated the Winnijn- 
seoyee House, an old and decadent sun)mer-hoteI, near good fishing- 
grounds and pretty scenery. 

Alton Bay was formerly called Merry-Meeting Bay, since it was a famous gath- 
ering-]ilaee Jor the Indians. Several Indian raids on the N. H. coast passed down 
tiiis bay, and in 172'2 tlie province liuilt a military road to it, and commenced for- 
tiiications. The cost was found to be too henvy for the little colony, and tlie 
position was given up. Atkinson's regiment, which was covering the frontiers 
during the French war, built a fort and encamped here through the ■winter of 
174G-7. 



CENTRE HARBOR TO CONWAY. Route 32. 219 

The hotel is aliout 30 M. from Centre Harbor. Mt. Major and Pros- 
pect Hill are in the vicinity, and command beautiful lake-views, while 
the ocean may be seen (in clear weather) from the top of Prospect. 
Sheep Mt. also gives a broad lake view. 

Among the longer excui'sions is that to Lougee Pond, near a cluster of 
lakelets from which flows the Suncook River. Gilmanton Iron Works 
village is a little way S. of these ponds, which are about 6 M. from Al- 
ton Bay. 6-8 M. to the eastward lies Merrymeeting Lalvc, an irregular, 
picturesque, and sequestered pond 10 M. in circumference, N. of which 
is Copple-Crowm Mt. The favorite excursion from Alton Bay is to ]\It. 
Belknap, 14 M. N. W. on the shores of, and overlooking, Lake Winne- 
pesaukee. Seats in the carriage which rims to the mt. whenever a party 
is formed cost $1.50 each, and the noble view of lakes and mts. more 
than repays for the time and trouble of the journey. 

Three trains daily (during the season) leave Alton Bay for Boston. 
Distance, 96 M. ; time about 4 hrs. (see Route 38.) 

Centre Harbor to "W. Ossipee. 
A railroad line has been surveyed from Meredith through Centre Har- 
bor to W. Ossipee. Daily stages now pass last named between these 
])oiiits. After leaving the Harbor, Red Hill is approached and passed, 
and Monltojiboro Corner is reached in 5 M. from the Senter House. 
Moultonboro has a small inn and two or three boarding-honses, and 
abounds in pleasant scenery which is rarely visited. Red Hill is here, 
anil Ossipee Mt., also the long and sequestered Moultonboro Bay with its 
great archipelago of picturesque islets, and with plenty of fish in its 
waters. 

The Ossipee Indians had their home near this bay, and many relics of them 
have beftii found, chie;' among wliich is a great monumental mound at the mouth 
of Melvin River. 

" Where the Great I^ake's sunny smiles Over lowlands forcst-ffrown 

Dimple round its hundred isles, Over waters island-strown, 

And the inountiiin's granite ledge Over silver-sanded lieach. 

Cleaves the water like a wedge, Leaf-locked hay and misty reacli, 

Rinsed about with smooth, pray stones, Melvin stream and burinl-heap. 

Best the giant s mighty bones. Watch and ward the mountains keep. 

Close beside, in shade and gleam. Who that Titan cromlech fills ? 

Laushs and ripples Melvin stream, Forest-kaiser, lord n' tlic hills ? 

Melvin water, mounrain-born. Knight who on the hircheii tvee 

All tV.ir flowers its banks adi)rn ; Carted his savage heraldry- ? 

All the woodland s voices meet. Priest o the pine wood temoles dim. 

Mingling with its murmurs sweet. Prophet, sage, or wizard grim 't " 
See Whittier's poem, " The Grave by the Lake." 

Ossipee Park is a patrician snmmer-resort high up on the Ossipee Range, near 
lovely cascades, and overlooking Wiunepesaukee. Stage.s from Centix- Harbor (9 M.) 
at 2 P. M. dai y Near by is Mi. Slcaw, tlie highest of the Ostiipee peaks (2,9ou f(.), 
with a tower tummaudiug a noble view. 

4i M. N. of IMoultunboro Corner is the pretty village of Centre Sand- 
wich (boarding-huusfs of Beede, BurUiyh, [Viygin, and others), 



220 Route 32. SANDWICH. 

which is in a narrow valley nearly snrrounded by monntaiiis. The scenery 

is noble, embracing Ossipee on the S. E., Red Hill, the Squani Mts. on the 

W., and the dark and storm-worn Sandwich Range on the N. Squam 

Lake is on the S. W. border of the town, and a charming road leads from 

the village to Plymouth, passing for several miles along the N. and W. 

shores of the lake, with the Squam Mts. on the r. Another road (sorae- 

Avhat arduous) leads across a high mountain-pass to Thnrnton, in the 

Pemigewasset Valley, while a bridle-path leads by Flat-Mt. Pond to 

Waterville. Beyond .S. Tamworth the stage passes near Bearcamp Pond, 

and follows the Bearcamp River down to the lowlands of Tamworth and 

Ossipee towns. 

■Wliitticr's poem, " Among the Hills," has its scene laid in this vicinity where 

" Throuch Sandwich notch the west-wind sang Above his broad lake Ossipee 

Good morrow to the cotter ; Once more the .siinsliinc wearing, 

And once again C'hoeorua's horn Stooped, tracing on that silver sliield 
Of shadow pierced the water. His grim armorial bearing." 

And many are the weary ones who still come here 

" To drink the wine of mountain air 
Beside the Bearcamp Water." 

WHtiteface (4,007 ft. high) is the most imposing of the Sandwich I\Its., 
and is sometimes ascended from Sandwich, although the excursion is 
arduous and fatiguing. The view is magnificent, embracing 

Winnepesaukee on the S. with the loftier peaks of the White Mts. on the 
N. On the N. E. is Passaconaway, a noble peak, 4,200 ft. high, which 
was named after the great sagamore of Pennacook, the most powerful 
Indian prince in northern New England, early in the 17th century. He 
governed a large confederacy of tribes from his seat at Pennacook (Con- 
cord), and altliough he strove to annihilate the English by necromantic 
arts, he never put his warriors in arms against them (see page 222). 

Cltocorua and Ossipee. 

The road soon pa^^ses out to W. Ossipee station, on the Eastern R. R. 
(Route 31). It is 18 M. fnmi Centre Harbor, by way of Sandwich' Pleas- 
ant excursions are made along Bearcamp River and into Sandwich town. 
Ossipee INIt. is close to the station, and the iiighest peak is but 2-3 M. dis- 
tant. A grand view is obtained from this point, while Chocorua looms up 
in the N. and Ossipee Lake is in the S. W. 

The by-road 2 M. beyond the Chocorua-Lake House leads to the Ham- 
mond farm, in § M., whence a plain and easy path leads up for lA hr. 
through the woods, and then for 1 lir. over the ledges to the far-viewing 
sharp crest of Mt. Chocorua. 

Ossipee Lake is about 4 M. S. E. The road follows down the P.oar- 
canip vallev to the vicinity of the lake. In the field near Daniel Smith's 
farm-house (1. of the road) is an Indian mound, nearly 50 ft, in diam- 
eter, from wliich several skeletons and other relics have been taken. 



MOUNT CHOCORUA. Route S3. 221 

In the same field and nearer the lake are the remains of Lovewell's fort, 
built in the spring of 1725, and abandoned after the battle at Pequawket 
(Fryeburg). Just beyond this point are the shores of Ossipee Lake, a 
sequestered sheet of water embracing about 10 square miles, with Green 
Mt. rising boldly on the further sliore. 

*Mt. Chocorua (3,540 ft. high) is visited from W. Ossipee. Tt is 8 M. 
to the foot, and 6-7 M. on the way the beautiful Cliocorua Lake 
{Lake House, finely situated) is passed. From this point the summits of 
the mountain are seen, of which " one is a rocky, desolate, craggy-peaked 
substance, crouching in shape not unlike a monstrous walrus (though the 
summit suggests more the half-turned head and beak of an eagle on the 
watch against some danger) ; the other is the wraith of the proud and 
lonely shape above." The ascent requires 4 M. froni the foot of the 
mountain, and is very arduous, — tlie patli being rugged and steep. 

" How rich and sonorous that word Chocorua is ! Does not its rhythm suggest 
the wildness and loneUness ot'tlie great liills? To our ears it always brings "witli 
it the sigh of the winds through mountain-pines. It is invested with traditional 
and poetic interest. In form it is massive and synnnetrical. Tlie forests of its 
lower slopes are crowned with rock that is sculptured into a peak with lines fid! 
of haughty ener^^y, in whose gorges huge shadows are entrapped, and whose cliffs 
blaze with morning gold. On one side of its jagged peak a charming lowland 
prospect stretches E. and S. of the Handwich Range, indented by the emerald 
shores of Winncpesaukee, which lies in queenly beauty u]ion tlie soft, far-stretch- 
ing landscapes. Pass around a huge rock to the other side of the steep pyramid, 
and you have turned to another chapter in the book of nature. Nothing but 
mountains running in long parallels, or bending, ridge behind ridge, are visible, 
here brilliant in sunlight, there gloomy with, shadow, and all related to the tower- 
ing mass of the imperial Washington There is no summit from which the 

precipices are so sheer, and sweep down with such cycloidal curves. It is so 
related to the plains on one side and the mountain-gorges on the other, that no 
grander watch-tower, except Mt. Washington, can be scaled to study and enjoy 
cloud scenery." (Starr King.) 

Chocorua, the blameless prophet-chief of the Sokokis Indians, was pursued to this 
lofty peak 1)y a white hunter, who was determineil to kill him for tlie sake of the 
scalp-money (tlie colonies gave large bounties for Indian scalps). The chief 
pleaded for quarter, speaking of his quiet life in whicli he had never harmed 
the colonists ; but when his pursuer refuse<l to hear, and drew near to put him to 
death, the noble Chocoi'ua cast one long, lin;jering look over the fair lands of his 
hunted people, and lifting up his arms invoked a solemn and terrible curse upon 
the country in which the English were swarming. He then leaped boldly over 
the tremendous jirecipice, and was dashed in pieces on the rocks below. Malig- 
nant and fatal di.seases among the cattle, and otlier fell signs long troubled the 
towns about the mountain, while strange legends arose, and the baleful effects 
were for many years attributed to the merited curse of Chocorua. 

33. The White Mountains and North Conway. 

New York to the White Mta. (a) By Route 24, through New Haven, Spring- 
field, aud Wells River, to Littleton, Bt-fhleheni, the Profile House, the Fnbyan 
Hou.«e (344 M.), tlie Crawford House (348 M,), and the base of Mt. Washington 
(350 M.). 

(b.) ]}y steamer to New London, thence by Route 12 to Amherst, Brattleboro, 
and Wells River, — thence to the Mts. as in (a). 

(c.) By New London, Norwich, Wori/ester, and Nashua (Route lo), to Concord, 
and thence by Route 30. Or by the preceding way as far as VVeir.s, whence Ltike 



222 Route 33. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS AND N. CONWAY, 

Winiiepesaukee (Route 32) is crossed to Wolfljoro', and Route ?>1 is followed to 
N. Conway. Many tourists prefer to take the niglit train or boat to Boston, and 
make their way thence to the White JNIts. by a morning train. 

Boston to the IVhite Mts. (d.) By route 81, through Lynn, iSalem, Newburyjiort., 
and Portsmouth, to N. Conway. By this route the distance from Boston to n! 
Conway is Vol M. ; to the Crawford House, 1G2 M. ; to the Glen House, 157 M. 

(e.) By Routes 29 and 30, through Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, and Concord, 
to Weirs, Plymouth, and the Fabyan House. Or by crossing Lake Winnepesan- 
kee frnin Weirs to Wolfboro, reach N. Conway by Route 31 (or by tiie stage-route 
from Centre Harbor). 

(/) By Route 31 to Wolfboro, thence crossing Lake Winnepesaukee to W^eirs, 
and following Route 30 to Plymouth, Littleton, and the Franconia Mts., or to the 
Fabyan and Crawford Houses. 

{g.) By Route 33 to Alton Bay, and thence by steamer to Wolfboro and Route 
31 to N. Conway ; or to Centre Harbor and Route 32 {ad Jinem) ; or to Weirs, and 
thence by Route 30, as in ( / ) 

Portland and the F.ast to the White Mts. (h.) By Route 3P to N. Conway (60 M.), 
and thence by rail to the Crawford House (or by 'stage to the Glen\ 

(i.) By Route 40, to the village of Gorham (91 M.) ; and thence by stage to the 
Glen House and Crawford House. 

Montreal and Quebec to the Uniite Mts. (j.) By Route 40 (Grand Trunk Railway) 
to Gorliam, 206 M. from Montreal, and 226 M. from Quebec. 

Albany and Saratoga to the White Mts. (k.) By Rtuites .53 and 28 to Rutland, 
thence by Route 26 to Bellows Falls, and thence by White River Junction and 
Wells River to Littleton and tlie Fabyan House. Or via Magnani Bay. 

Pedestrianism has never obtained much favor in America, but when the 
present joost bellum era of prodigality and pretence has passed away, we may hope 
to see these mountain peaks and gorges enlivened by parties of summer ramblers 
who will gain health and strength from inspiring walks in the pure, sweet air. 
The gentry of Old England, with their ladies, are fond of i)assing thus tlirough the 
Swiss Alps or the Scottish Highlands, and when the people here shall adox>t this 
mode of summer travel, the physical culture of New England will reach a higher 
standard. Many admirable i)edestrian routes may be made througli the Wliite 
Mts., but the tourist should havc]>leHty of time, and be well and liglitly equipped 
(see Introduction, IV.) A good lield-giass will be found of essential service. 



Tlie "White Mts. were called Agiochook ("Mts. of the Snowy Forehead and 
Home of the Great Sjurit "J by some of the Indian tribes, and Kan Ran Vugarty 
("the continued likeness of a gull") by others. The Algonquins called them 
AVauml)ek (White Rock) or Wauml)eket-Methna, and the natives had the utmost 
reverence for these mts., believing them to be the home and throne of the Great 
Spirit. But rarely did the Indians ascend the higher peaks, since it was reported 
anioug the tribes that no intruder upon these sacred heights was ever known to 
return to his people. There was a legend that the Great Spirit once licu'e a blame- 
less chief and his wife in a mighty whirlwind to the summit of Agiochook, while 
the world below was oversi)read by a flood which destroyed all the i>eople. A 
■wilder and more recent tradition is to the effect that the great Passacoiiaway, the 
wizard-king of the wide-spread Pennacook confederation (who ruled from al)out 
1620 to 1660). was wont to commune with celestial messengers on the summit of 
Agiochook, whence he was finally borne to heaven in a flaming chariot. Some 
authorities claim that a party of Englishmen visited these mts. in 1631-2, but the 
latest historians credit their discovery to Darby Field, who came up from tlie 
coast in 1642. The Indian villagers at Pequawket(Fryeburg) earnestly endeavored 
to dissuade him from the ascent, telling him that he would never return alive. 
But he pressed on with his two sea-shore Indians, passing through cloud-banks 
and storms until he reached the last peak, whence he saw "the sea by Saco, the 
gidf of Canada, and the great lake Canada River came out of." He found many 
crystals here, which he tliought were diamonds, and from which the chain long 
bo'rc the name of " the Chrystall Hills." Tradition says that in 1765 a pjirty i>f 9 
of Rogers' Rangers, retreating from St. Francis, were led up Israel's River into 
these defiles by a treacherous Indian guide, ami all of them died excei>t one, wlio 
reached the settlements with his knapsack filled with human licsh. It was said 



NORTH CONWAY. R>mle 33. 223 

that this party bore the great silver image taken from tlie church at St. Francis, 
and several of the early hunters made earnest quest after this sacred relic. A 
short legendary era followed, and then the pioneer colonists he:nan to move into 
the outlying glens. In 1771 the Notch was discovered : in 1792 Ahel Crawford 
lived on the Giant's Grave ; in 1803 a small tavern was l)uilt there ; and in July, 
1820, a party of seven gentlemen slej^t on the summit of Mt. Washington, and 
gave the names which the princiiial peaks still bear. In 1S19 the first bri<lle-path 
to the summit was cut, and a small stone hut was erected near that ]ioint. The 
Summit House was built in 1S52, and the Tip-Toj) House was completed shortly 
after. In September, 1S55, a small party started one afternoon to walk to the 
summit, and being without a guide became bewildered and lost, and one young 
lady died at midnight from cold and weariness. In the next August, a Delaware 
"gentleman started from the Glen without a guide, in the afternoon, and died near 
the summit from exi)asure to a cold night storm. Late in October, 1851, a young 
English gentleman ascended alone from Crawford's to the summit, and fell from a 
great precipice into the Ammonoosuc Valley, where his mangled corpse was found. 
For some years the summit has been occupied during the winter as a station of 
the meteorological department of the U. S. Army, and the men on duty have ex- 
perienced the most intense cold and watched terrific storms. The thermometer 
(Fahrenheit) has descended to 59 below zero, and the winds have attained a ve- 
locity of 100 M. an hour. 

" the geological features of Mt. Washington possess but little interest. The 
rocks in place consist of a coarse variety of mica slate, passing into gneiss, which 
contains a few crystals of black tourmaline and cpiartz." The cone is covered with 
blocks of mica slate. The flora of the upper region is nearly identical with tliat 
of Labrador and Lapland. " The period when the White Mts. ceased to be a group 
of islands, or when, by the emergence of the surrounding low land, they first be- 
came connected with the continent, is of very modern date, geologically speaking." 
(Sir Charles Lyell.) Below the lu'okeu and distorted stratum of mica slate, the 
vast mass of the mountains is of granite. 

North Conway. 

Hotels. * Kearsarge House, 300 guests, S 10 - '21 a week, — a fine structure, with a 
broad view from tiic central tower ; * Sunset Paviliou, oi)i)osite the Episcopal cfiurcb, 
$ 7 - 14 a week ; .McMulun Uou.-;e, S. of the village ; Easrm.ui House, Sr 7 - 10 a week ; 
N. Conway ilcu.-e, in the village; Intervale House, about '2 M. N., near Mt. Kiar- 
pa;ge. There tire over 20 large summer boardiag-hou=es in siud around N. Conway, 
most of which are couilortabie and quiet. Their prices range from $7.00 to s? 12.00 
a week. 

Kailroatls. The Eastern Railroad fsee lioute ,31) runs two express trains each, 
way daily (turough the summer) between Boston and N. Conwa\ , in 5 hours. Dis. 
tance 137 M. ; fare, S5.00. The trains are provided with Pullman parlor-cars. 
The Portland and Ogdensbtirg Railroad runs three trains daily each way (througii 
the summer) between Portland and N. Conway. Distance 60 M., time 2.^ -3 hours 
(see Route oOV This line connects at Portland with steamers for Boston, and trains 
run W. from N. Conway to the Crawford and Fahyan Houses and the Conuecticut- 
RivcL- Valley, traversing the White-Mountain Notch. 

Staples from Glen Station every morning and also about niid-nfternoon for the 
Glon House. Publif conveyances run frequently (but irregularly) to the points of 
interest in the vicinity. 

Post-Office and telegraph focihties are found in the village : carriages may be 
obtained at various livery-stables; there are several stores where most articles may 
be obtained ; and there are four churches, Bapt., Cong., Meth., and Epis. 

North Conway is a pretty village, largely composed of hotels and sum- 
mer boarding-houses, situated on a natural terrace 30 ft. above the inter- 
vales of the Saco River, which is about f M. distant. "On tlie W., the 
long and noble Moat Mt. guards it ; on the E., the rough, less lofty, and 
bending Rattlesnake Ridge helps to wall it in, — uuatti-active enough in the 



224 Route 33. NORTH CONWAY. 

ordinary daylight, but a f^reat favorite of the setting sun, which delights to 
glorify it with Tyrian drapery. On the S. W., Chocorua manages to get 
a peep of its lovely meadows. Almost the Avhole line of the White Mts. 
proper, crowned in the centre by the dome of Mt. Washington, closes the 
view on the N, W. and N., — only 12 or 15 M. distant by the air. Mt. 
Washington does not seem so much to stand up, as to lie out at ease along 
the North. The leonine grandeur is there, but it is the lion not erect, but 
couchant, a little sleepy, stretching out his paws and enjoying the sun. 

"The distinction of N. Conway is, that it is a large natural poem irr 
landscape, — a quotation from Arcadia, or a suburb of Paradise. And 
then the sunsets of N. Conway ! Coleridge asked Mont Blanc if he 
had ' a charm to stay the morning star in his steep course.' It is time for 
some poet to put the question to those bewitching, elm-sprinkled acres 
that border the Saco, by what sorcery they evoke, evening after evening, 
upon the heavens that watch them, such lavish and Italian bloom. Nay, 
it is not Italian, for the basis of its beauty is pure blue, and the skies of 
Italy are not nearly so blue as those of New England. One sees more 
clear sky in eight summer weeks in Conway, probably, than in the com- 
pass of an Italian year." (Starr King.) 

Mount Kiarsarge, or Pequawket, is 3 M. from the village, and attains 
a height of 3,251 ft. above the sea. A bridle-path (horses $ 2.00 and guides 
$2.00 each) has been made to the summit (hotel here blown down in 188:^). 
The view from this point embraces the village and the valley of the 
Saco, with the great range of the Moat Mt. beyond, " its wooded wall 
upreared as if for the walk of some angel sentinel." In the N. and W. 
is a vast throng of mountains, grouped " in relation to the two great 
centres, — the notched summit of Lafayette and the noble dome of Wash- 
ington." Lafayette is N. of W., 28-30 M. distant, and is the loftiest of 
the Franconia Mts. The view of Mt. Washington from Kiarsarge is one 
of the best attainable, while in the opposite direction, 100 M. S. W. " tlie 
tilmy outline of Monadnock gleams like a sail just fading out upon a vast 
sea." Sebago Lake, Fryeburg village, and Lovewell's Pond are seen in 
the S. E. and E. Kiarsarge Village, at the foot of the mt.. has summer 
houses, Merrill House, SunumT House (60 guests), &c. ($6-10 a week). 
At Intervale are the Intervale House, Bellcvue, Tasker's, and others. 

The Ledges are 3 M. from the village, beyond the Saco, wliere Moat Mt. 
terminates in clilfs ranging from 100 to 960 ft. in height, and extending 
nearly 5 M. The river is shallow, and is crossed by a covered bridge, 
near beautiful view-points. A curious formation of white rock (look- 
ing like a horse dashing up) which was once visible on the cliffs (parts 
of it are still seen from N. Convv-ay), has caused the name of White Horse 
Ledge to be applied to a part of these cliffs. The Cathedral is a 
singular cavity in the rock (100 ft. above the river and easily reached) 20 




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NORTH CONWAY. Route 33. 225 

ft. wide, 40 ft. long, and 60 ft. high, where the ledge bends over in an 
arch above, and several tall trees form the outer wall. " And truly the 
waters, frosts, and storms that scooped and grooved its curves and niches, 
seem to have combined in frolic mimicry of Gothic art. The whole front 
of the recess is shaded by trees, which kindly stand apart just enough to 
frame off Kiarsarge in lovely symmetry, — so that a more romantic rest- 
ing-place for an hour or two in a warm afternoon can hardly ha imagined. ' 
Below the White-Horse is * Echo Lake, a beautiful little loch under the 
shadow of the cliffs, which throw back an echo over ifs tranquil waters. 
A little way N. of the Cathedral is a fine double fall, above and below 
which are several deep basins in the solid rock, filled with sparkling 
water, one of which is known as Diana's Bath. 

The Artists' Falls are in the forest 1^- M. E. of the village, and, though 
insignificant in themselves, are in combination with beautiful grouj>- 
ings of rock and woodland scenery. The Artists' Ledge is some distance 
S. of these falls, and commands noble * views of the village and valley 
with Mt. Washington looming far above and beyond them, Chocorua is 
seen in the S. E. across the level and luxuriant valley. The White-Mt. 
Mineral Spring is 4 M. S.; and Conway Corner is 1 M. beyond. 

Excursions are made from N. Conway to Tliorn Hill, 9 INL ; Dundee, 
12 M. ; Jockey Cap, and l^ovewell's Pond, in Fryeburg, 11 - 13 M. ; Mount 
Chocorua, 18 IM. ; Jackson Falls, G -9 M. ; "Around the Square," a favorite 
drive near Mt. Kiarsarge, 5 M. ; and up the narrow western valley to Swift- 
River Falls, 18 M., with Chocorua on tlie 1. CIiampney\9 Falls are visited 
by this road, and are very beautiful in high water. Good paths lead to 
the tops of Moat Mt., 6^ M.; Peaked Mt., 2.^ M. ; and Middle Mt., 3 M. 
N. Conway to the Olen House and Gorham. 

Soon after leaving the village, the Cathedral Woods and Mr. Bigelow's 
elegant cottage are quickly passed, and tine views are afforded of tlie up- 
per intervales, undisfigured by railway trestles and embankments. Mt. 
Kiarsarge, on the r., appears in constantly changing forms, as the Inter- 
vale and Pequawket Houses are passed, and ojipositethe East Branch House 
is a foot-path by which this " charming pyramid " is sometimes ascended. 
After the road crosses the East Branch of the Saco it bends to the W. 
and affords a comprehensive view of the Conway valley. Shortly after 
passing Stilphen's (under Cedar Mt.) a fine retrospective view of Kiar- 
sarge is afforded. Thorn Mt. is now seen on the r. and Iron Mt. on the 
1. (in advance), and the road passes over Goodrich Falls, Avhich may be 
viewed from the rocks on the r. bank, or, better still, frora the shore 
below (short but steep path). These falls are on the Ellis River, and have 
been ruined by a mill-dam. As the stage now passes along the Ellis River 
fiequent glimpses of the mts. appear, and Jackson City is soon reached. 
10* O 



226 Route 33. JACKSON. — GLEN HOUSE. 

Jackson. — (* TJwm-Mt. House and IVentworth J7'iU, 200 guests, 
S 10.50-21 a week; Juvkson-Fulls Houst, $9-14; Glf-n-Ellis House, 
$8-15; C. E. Gale, S. W. Gray, J. L>. Towie, W. E. Llkins ($6-0). 

The Jai;kson people becaiiie rtiscontented during the Secession War, on acconnt 
of crushing taxes, and after some acts of violence on their part, it was found 
necessaiy to occupy the place with U. S. troojjs, who were quartered in the church. 
The town was settled in 1778, and in 1790 came Capt. Pinkham and five families 
on snow-shoes and sledges. Shortly after, Daniel Pinkham built a rude road 
through the notch which still bears his name, and the little settlement was called 
New Madbury. In ISOO this name was changed to Adams, and in 1829, wlien 
Adams and Jackson were candidates for the Presidency, and the latter received 
every vote (except one) in the town, it took the name of Jackson. 

Many rare minerals are found here, and tin-mines Lave been worked on 
one of the hills. This central plaza in the city of hills is mnch I'reqiiented 
in summer by artists, ti'oiit -fishers, and lovers of quiet and sequestered 
scenery. The Jackson Falls are close to the village (seen from tlie bridge 
over Wildcat Brook on the r.), and are very beautiful in higli water. Iron 
Mt. is 2,900 ft. high and looms up on the 1., wliile Tin Mt. is on the r. 
Eagle Mt. on tlie N. is rounded on the r. after leaving tlie viHage, The 
road now ascends tlirough the thiclvening forest with the Ellis River on 
tlie 1., while occasional glimpses of Carter Dome are obtained on the r. 
No houses are seen in this desolate pass, and 7 M. beyond Jackson the 
path to the Glen Ellis Fall is seen on the r. 4-5 M. beyond (with occa- 
sional glimpses of Tuckerman's Kavine and the slopes of Mt. Washing- 
ton), the spacious * Glen House is reached. This hotel accommodates 
500 guests ($ 4.50 a day), keeps a band of music through the summer, and 
has a parlor and dining-room, each of which is 100 by 45 ft. in dimensions. 
" The Glen House is at the very base of the monarch, and Adams, Jelfer- 
son. Clay, and Madison bend around towards the E. with no lower hills 
to obstruct the impression of their height." The Glen is 1,632 ft. al)Ove 
the sea, and 820 ft. above Gorham, and is Avatered by Peabody River and 
surrounded by lofty peaks. On the E. is the long dark ridge of the 
forest-covered Carter Mt., and on the W. is the noble brotherhood of the 
five chief peaks of New England. Mt. Madison (5,365 ft.) is 4 M. N. W. 
in an air-line, and next in the majestic group conies the sharp and sym- 
metrical pyramid of Mt. Adams (5,794 ft.). The massive crest of Mt. 
Jefi'erson (5,714 ft.) comes next, then Mt. Clay (5,553 ft.), and S. E. of 
the hotel the summit of Mt. Washington (6,293 ft.) is seen peering over 
lofty spurs and secondary peaks. " MAJ. Clay Washington " is a for- 
mula which fixes in the mind the order of these mountains. A better view 
is obtained by ascending for a few hundred feet the mt. behind the hotel. 

Thompson's Falls are about 2 ]\I. S. W. of the Glen House, and a 
guide-board on the 1. shows the point where the N. ConAvay road is 
quitted, and a forest-path is entered. The falls are ^ M. from the road., 
and the brook may be followed up for a considerable distance, the walk 
alfording grand retrospective views of Mt. Washington and Tuckarman's 



GOPJIAM. Route 33. 227 

Ravine, Not far from these falls is the quiet and secluded basin called 
the Emerald Pool. 

The * Crystal Cascade is gained by a path leading from the road into 
the forest to ther., about 1 M. beyond Thompson's Falls. There is about 
\ M. of continuous ascent to the fall, which is near tlie mouth of Tuck- 
erman's Ravine, and is best seen from a high and moss-covered ledge 
opposite. 

" Down it comes, leaping, slidin?, tripping, widening its pure tide, and then 
gathering its thin sheet to gusli tlirough a narrowing pass in tlie rocks, — all the 
way thus, frc)m under the sheer wails of Tuclcernian's Ravine, some miles above, 
till it reaches the curve opposite the point on which Vvc stand, and winding 
around it, sweeps down the bending stairway, shattering its substance into ex- 
quisite crystal, but semling off enough water to the right side of its path to slip 
and trickle over tlie lovely, dark-green mosses that cling to the gray and purple 
rocks. We never look at the Crystal Cascade without revering and nyoicing over 
the poetry with which nature invests the birth of so connnon a thing as water." 

Along and difficult ascent along tlie brook-bank leads into Tuckerman's Ravine. 
The Cascade falls about SO ft. 

The * Glen Ellis Fall is about 4 M. from the Glen Houso, and is 
gained by a plank-walk turning to the 1. from the N. Conway road into 
the forest. This is the finest fall in the mts., and the Ellis River hero 
plunges down 70 ft. in one thick white mass, half sunk in a deep channel 
which it has cut in the cliff. The steep fall of 70 ft. is prefaced by a 
descent of 20 ft. at a sharp angle. From the top of the cliff one sees 
" the slide and foam of the narrow and concentrated cataract to where it 
spla.shes into the dark green pool, 100 ft. below." A better view of this 
*' heart of mt. wildness " is gained by descending a long series of rude 
steps to the edge of the pool below the fall. " It is feminine and maid- 
enly grace that is illustrated by the Ci-ystal Cascade ; it is masculine 
youth, the spirit of heroic adventure, tliat is suggested by this stream." 

The Garnet Pools are 1 M. N. of the Glen House, near the Gorliam 
road, and show some curious rock-carving in the bed of the Peabody 
River. About 1^ M. beyond, by crossing the bridge to the 1., the point 
is reached (near a farmhouse) where the singular appearance of a dis- 
torted human face is seen on a peak of Imp Mt. Gorham is 8 M. N. E. 
of the Glen House, v/ith which it is connected by semi-daily stages (fare, 
$ 1.50) runnhi^ down the valley of the Peabudy River. It is li M. from 
Glen Station, by daily stages, to the Glen House. 

Gorham. 

Hotels. * Alpine House, a first class hotel, with livery-stable, etc. ; the Lary 
Hcruse, 1 M. out. 

Stages to the Glen House twice daily. Mountain-wagons run irregularly to 
the ]Vlt -Wasliingtou Summit House, and over the Cherry-Mountain road. 

IRailroad. The Grand Trunk Railway runs to Portland (91 M.) in -J^-S hours. 
By taking the train to Northumberland {?,\ M. N. W ), a connection is made v. i h 
the B. C. (St M. and White Mts. R. R., ruuuiug to Lancaster and Littleton (Route 
30). 



228 Route 33. GOEHAM. 

Gorham is a thriving village at the continence of the Peabody and An- 
droscoggin Rivers, on tlie N. side of the White Mts. and 812 ft. ahove 
the sea. It has been almost entirely created by the Grand Trnnk Rail- 
way, which has its repair-shops here. " For river scenery combined with 
impressive mt. forms, the immediate vicinity of Gorham surpasses all the 
other districts from which the highest peaks are visible." 

*Mt. Hayes is just N, E. of Gorham, and attains a height of 2,500 ft. 

The Androscoggin is crossed near the hotels by a suspension foot-bridge, 

225 ft. long, remarkable as the work of one man (a hard-working villager), 

who conceived the work and executed it alone. He has also made a palh 

to the summit of the mt. (the ascent requires 2 hours). The view is thus 

described : — 

" Tlie rich upland of Eandnlpli, over Avhioh the ridges of Madison and Ad.'iins 
heave towards the S., first liolds the eye. Next tlie singular curve in the blue 
Androscoggin around the Larj- farm, arching like a bow drawn taut. Down the 
A-alley Shelburne, Gilead, W. Bethel, and Bethel, were laid into the landsea]ie witli 
rich mosaics of grove and grass and ripening grain, — needing a brush dipp('(l iu 
juolten opal to paint their wavy, trenuilous beauty. Directly opposite, seemingly 
only an arrow-shot's distance, were the russet ravines of Moriah and the shadow- 
cooled stairways of Carter." Mt. Washington is seen to best advantage from this 
point, — " Mt. Hayes is the chair set by the Creator at the proper distance and 
angle to appreciate and enjoy his kingly prominence." 

* Mt. Surprise is a peak of Moriah about 1,200 ft. above Gorham, 
lying S. E. of tlu- village, with a vague path leading through a fine forest 
to its summit (2i M. from the hotels). Horses cannot be obtained, but 
good walkers can make the ascent on foot in two hours. Tliis peak 
sustains the same relation to the Pinkham Notch as Mt. Willard does to 
the Crawford Notch. Looking up the pass, Mt, Carter is seen on the 1. , 
and the five presidential peaks on the r., with Madison, "the Apollo of 
the highlands," boldly advanced. On the N., in strongest contrast, are 
the sweet and fertile lowlands of the Androscoggin, with their peacefid 
farms and pastoral beauty. An almost obliterated old bridle-path leads 
from this crest to the summit of Mt. Moriah, 4,653 ft. above the sea. 
This peak is rarely visited, but is said to command a noble view. 

Randolph Hill is 5 M. W. of the village, and its summit is gained by a 
road (Mt. -Crescent House, opened 1884). From the road and the hill-top 
are gained the noblest * prospects of the northern slopes, lines, and peaks 
of the Presidential group, especially of Madison and Adams. 

Gilead is 10-12 M. from Gorham, and the drive thither is very 
pleasant, being alongside the river, with ever-changing hill-scenery on 
either hand. The Lead-Mine Bridge is 4-^ M. E. of Gorham, near an 
abandoned mine, and is celebrated for its afternoon and sunset views. 
This point should be visited between 5 and 7 P. M. Madison, Adams, 
and Washington at that hour become "volcano-pictures," while the nearer 
summits of Moriah, Hayes, and Baldcap form their heavily outlined 
framework. 



JEFFERSON HILL. Route 33. 229 

* Berlin Falls n,re 6 M. N. of Gorham by a pleasar.t river-road (or by 
the railway). Tiie Androscoggin River here pours the waters of tlie 
distant Umbagog and Rangeley Lakes in "a clean and powerful tide 
througii a narroAv granite pass, descending nearly 200 ft. in tJie course of a 
mile. We do not think that iu New England there is any passage of river 
passion that v/ill compare with the Berlin Fails. How madly it huids 
tlie deep ti'ansparent and^er doAvu the pass and over the boulders, — flying 
and roaring like a drove of young lions, crowding each other in furious 
rush after prey in sight." Tlie best view i3 from the rocks near the stream 
below the falls, while the cataract is seen in mid-career from a bridge over 
the gorge. Near this point is the Mt.-Forist House. 

From Gorham to the Notch, 

by way of the Waimibek House, is 32-34 M., and the road is richer in 
scenery than ariy other in the mts. No stages run on this route, but 
Avagons and drivers can be obtained at Gorham. The vast and uncon- 
cealed ranges of the five great mts. are seen for mile after mile in their 
most imposing forms. " First Madison and Adams come into view, and 
we drive dii"ectly by their base and under their summits in passing over 
Randolph Hill." Beyond the deep ravine in the side of Adams the castel- 
lated peak of Jefferson is seen, and soon after Mts. Pleasant, Franklin, 
and Monroe come into view. From Martin's, 13 M. from Gorham, Mt. 
Clay is visible, an<l just beyond is the majestic head of Washington. 
Near a little school-house in this vicinity, George L. Brown painted 
his masterpiece, "The Crown of New England," now owned by the 
Prince of Wales. 16 - 18 M. from Gorham is Jefferson Hdl, " the ultivia 
thule of grandeur in an artist's pilgrimage among the N. il. Mts., for at 
no other point can be seen the White Mts. in such array and force." The 
* Waumbek House is situated here, and commands superb views of the 
great peaks in the S. E. " For grandeur and for opportunities of study- 
ing the wildness and majesty of the sovereign range, the Cherry Mountain 
route is without a rival in New Hampshire," said Thomas Starr King, the 
gifted Unitarian divine, who wrote the adnurable book called " The White 
Hills." Jefferson Hill has recently become a favorite summer-resort, the 
chief hotels being the Waumbek, the Plaisted House (100 guests; 
$ 8 - 12 a week), the Jeff'erson Hill and the Starr-King (70 guests eacli ; 
S 8-12 a week). It is 3 M. from the nearest railroad, 8 M. from Lancas- 
ter ; 6 M. from the far-viewing Bray Hill ; 5 M. from the Mt.-Adams 
House ; 12 M. from the Fabyan House ; and 17 M. from Goiliam. The 
favorite excursions are the ascent of Mt. Starr King (path 2?^ M. long), to 
Stag Hollow, Bray Hill, and the Valley Road. The view from Jefferson 
Hill is probably the grandest from any of the mountain-handets. 
The road to the Notch (16 M. distant) runs S. from the Waumbek 



230 Route 33. UPPER BARTLETT. 

House, and " for 5 M. from this point over the Jefferson meadows, in 
travelling towards the Notch, we ride in full view of every summit of the 
chain, seeing Washington in the centre dominant over all." The passage 
of Cherry INIt. is effected hy a rough and tedious road, and the White ML 
House is reached, after which the great Fabyan House is passed, the 
Amraouoosuc River is crossed, and the carriage reaches the Crawford 
House. 

There is a shorter road than this, between Gorham and the Notch, and 
travellers who wish to go by Jefferson Hill should have the fact imder- 
stood. This route can be taken from the Glen House, without going to 
Goi'ham, by turning to the 1. from the Gorham road about 2^ M. N. of 
the Glen House, passing around the base of Madison, and entering the 
Cherry Mt. road near Randolph Hill. 

N. Conway to the Notch. 

The route is the same as that to the Glen House as far as Bartlett 
Corner, where the P. & O.K. R. diverges to the W., and crosses in succes- 
sion the Ellis River, the Rocky Branch, and the Saco River. The latter 
stream is followed up to its birthplace, leading, at first, through a glen 
between the Moat Mt. on the 1. and Stanton Mt. on the r. After cross- 
ing the Rocky Branch, the White Ledge is rounded on the r. at the E. 
end of Stanton Mt. Mt. Carrigain looms up far ahead with its triple peaks 
(the highest of which rises 4,800 ft.), and the road passes over narrow 
intervales, with a fine retrospect of Kiarsarge. Tlie Chapel of the Hills 
(a neat little church dedicated in 18.54) is passed on the 1., and then the 
Upper Bartlett House, where passengers by the morning stages took 
dinner. This rude glen was settled in 1777, and in 1790 was named in 
honor of Josiali Bartlett, a si-'uer of the Declaration of Independence, and 
at that time President of N. H. The Portland & Ogdensburg Rail- 
road has a station here, and large lumber-nulls are in the vicinity. 
Mt. Carrigain is iisually attacked from this point, by way of the 
Sawyer's- River glen ; and the other favorite excvirsions are the ascents 
of Mts. Langdon and Tremont. Many trout are found in the adjacent 
brooks. 

A solitary hunter named Nash, while chasing a moose on Cherry Mt., saw the 
Notch opening through the mts., and entered and explored it. He conceived tiuit 
a road could lie made through this pass to connect the upper Coos country with 
the coast, witli which its communication was lli(>n made by a long detour around 
the mts. He reported his discovery to Gov. Wentwortii (ia 1773), wlio told liim 
that if he would got a horse thiough the pass, he would give him a large grant of 
land. Nash then secured the aid of another luniter named Sawyer, and they 
hauled a hor.se through, lowering him over cliffs and driving him tlu'ough the 
river, until they f merged here. Then Sawyer drained tiie rum from his bottle, 
and broke it against the ledge, which he named Sawyer's Rock. A road was 
built "with tlie neat lu'oceeds of a ccnfiscated estate," and the first article of 
Coos produce sent ilown tlirougli the Notch was a bai'rel of tobacco, while the 
first merchandise scut up from the coast was a banel of rum. 



THE NOTCH. Route S3. 231 

I^ounding TIarfs Ledge the road now turns to the N. and crosses 
Sawyer's River, up whose valley a branch railroad runs to Livertnore, 
near the foot of Mt. Carrigain. Soon after, Nancy^s Brooh is crossed by a 
bridge thrown over a remarkable ravine 200 ft. long, 20 ft. wide, and 35 
ft. deep. This pretty brook ri.ses in a lonely mountain tarn about 2^ M. 
from the road, and is named for a luckless maiden who walked one cold 
afternoon or night from Lancaster to tliis point in pursuit of a faithless lover. 
Wet, chilled, and deathly weary, she sat down by a tree near this brook, 
and was there found frozen to death. Just beyond this place, on the 1., 
is seen the grave of Abel Crawford, " the patriarch of the momitains," a 
pioneer and monntain-guide of many years ago. After passing the Mt. 
Craivford Hgusc, Mts. Crawford and Resolution and the Giant's Stairs 
are seen on the r., the latter towering in broken masses to the height of 
5,500 ft. The forest now closes in on the road, which crosses the Saco 
near the foot of the Giant's Stairs, and recrosses it about a mile beyond, 
Witli a fine view up the long, deep gorge to the r. Turning now to the 
N. W. the road enters the Notch., with the vast mass of Mt. Webster on 
the r., tovi^ering to a height of 4,000 ft., and Willey Mt. on the 1. Passing 
over the tree-grown fragments of the mt. which have fallen in long-past 
avalanches, tlie Willey House is reached. 

The great amount of travel through the Notch in whiter, caused by the Coos 
farmers carrying their produce to the eastern towns, rendered a hotel here very 
desirable. So tliis house was built about 1820 (Spaukliug says in 1793), and was 
occupied ni 1825 by Mr. Willey. In Augvrst, 1826, after a long drought the mts. were 
assailed by a furious storm, which caused the river to rise rapidly, and during the 
night an enormous mass of earth, rocks, and trees slid from Mt. Willey into the 
valley. This avalanche was split by a sharp ledge back of the house, and flowed 
on both .sides without harming it. But the family had left the house (probably 
fearing the swelling torrent of the Saco), and, being somewhere in the track of the 
slide, every person was killed. Mr. and Mrs. Willey and their 5 children, with 2 
hired men, died on that fatal night, and 6 of the bodies were found, sadly muti- 
late<i. Tlie house has been occupied since 1827, and is shown to visitors for a 
email fee. During storms rocks are sometimes seen phniging down from the 
opposite cliffs of Mt. Webster. In 1746, when a party of Rangers were marching 
through a valley near the more southerly of the V/hite Mts. they were alarmed l)y 
>>ounds like volleys of musketry among the defiles. Skirmishing parties of scouts 
Were sent in, who discovered that the noise was caused by falling rocks. 

After leaving the Willey House, the road ascends slowly for 3 M., 
passes through the naiTow Gate of the Notch, and stoi:)s at the * Crawford. 
House. This is a large and elegant summer hotel, with accommodations 
for 350 guests, at $ 4.50 a day. It is situated on a plateau 1,920 ft. above 
the sea, and faces the Notch. Near the house are two springs within 
stone's-throw of each other, the waters of one of which pass to the sea liy 
the Connecticut River, while the other empties into the Saco, and reaches 
the ocean on the coast of Maine. Tliere is a pretty lakelet near the Gate 
of tlie Notch, whence Hows the yonng Saco River. 

Mt. Willard is easily ascended from this point by a cariiage-r<jail 2 ]\I. 
long, and the walk upward through this forest avenue is full of pleasure. 



232 Route 3S. CRAWFORD HOUSE. 

The * * view down the Notch is wonderful, embracing two Titanic mt, 
walls, beginning with Webster on the 1. and Willeyon the r., and running 
S. for leagues, with haughty Chocorua, 18-20 M. away, closing the vista. 
The highway down tliis wild pass is marked by a slender line througli the 
forest, and the Willey House is a mere dot on its ruin-swept lowlands. 
Bayard Taylor says of this view, " As a simple picture of a mountain- 
pass, seen from above, it cannot be surpassed in all Switzerland." Look- 
ing oif to the N. E., the great peaks of the Mt. Washington group are 
seen, with Clinton first and nearest, and Jackson on the upper end of Mt. 
Webster. " And let us again advise visitors to ascend Mt. Willard, if 
possible, late in tlie afternoon. They will then see one long wall of the 
Notch in shadow, and can watch it move slowly up the curves of the 
opposite side, displacing the yellow splendor, while the dim green dome 
of Washington is gilded by the sinking sun 'with heavenly alchemy.'" 
(Starr King. ) 

The * Flume Cascade is 2 M. from the Crawford House, on the 1. of 
the Notch road, and is about 250 ft. in aggregate height. It derives its 
name from a singular trench through which the stream flows near the 
bridge. The * Silver Cascade is about \ M. beyond the Flume, on the 
1. of the Notch road, and is one of the most beautiful falls in the moun- 
tains, es.pecially after heavy rains. It descends 1,000 ft. in 1 M. of its 
course, the portion seen from the road being 300 ft. higli. Mt. Web- 
ster has been ascended by ascending the course of this plunging tor- 
rent. Tlie Hitchcock Flume is a singular chasm, wliich is reached by a 
path from the Mt. -Willard road. 

The splendid * Kipley Falls are 6 - 7 M. from the hotel, and are gnined 
by following up Avalanche Brook (the second which the road crosses S. 
of the Willey House). About 2 M. from the road, in a granite-walled 
ravine, the brook falls 25 - 30 ft. in 4 leaps, and then forms a cascade 108 
ft. long, slipping over inclined ledges of granite into a deep pool below. 
About 1 M. higher is the Sparkling Cascade. These falls were discovered 
in 1858. 

Gibbs's Falls are near the hotel, and are found by following up the 
Mt. -Washington bridle-path, and then the brook to Avhich it leads. 
10 - 15 minutes' walk up stream brings one to a ])retty fall of about 30 
ft., with pleasing forest accessories. 

Beecher's Falls are on the .slope of Mt. Field, to the r. of the hotel, 
and are gained by a good forest-path. The Falls extend for a long dis- 
tance up the brook, and from the uppeiTnost of them a fine view of Mt. 
Washington is disclosed. The DeviVs Den is a dark i;avern seen from the 
Notch road, near the summit of Mt. Willard. Pulpit Rock is on the r. 
of the road, near the Gate of the Notch, and several rock-proliles have 
been seen on the adjacent cliffs. 



FABYAN HOUSE. Route 33. 233 

The * Arethusa Falls are on Bemis Brook, wliich is 2 M. N. of Bemis 
Station, and 6^ M. S. of the Crawford House, and are 1 M. from the rail- 
road. The brook makes a magnificent white plunge of 176 ft., over black 
cliffs, and amid ancient forest scenery. 

The P. & 0. R. R. runs N. from the Crawford House to the Fahyan House, con- 
nec'.tin,:^ tlicre with the railroad routes to the surninit of Mt. Wasliiiiyion, the 
Twin-Mountain House, Bethlehem, and Littleton (stage tlienee to the I'rolile 
Honse). Trains also run several times daily througli the Notch to N. Conway 
(24 M. ; li-l\ hrs.), one of the graudest railroad routes in America. 



The *Fabyan House is 4 M. N. of the'Notch. and accommodates 
500 guests. It was built in 1872, and is 4 stones high, witli a frontage 
of 320 ft. This structure stands on the site of the Giant's Gfrave, a tall 
mound near the Ammonoosuc River. According to tradition, an Indian 
once stood here at night, and swinging a torch lit from a lightnuig- 
struck tree, cried, " No pale-face shall take deep root here ; this the 
G]eat Spirit whispered in my ear." A tavern was opened here about 
1803, and in 1819 it was burnt, while the same fate befell another erected 
on its site, and Fabyan's large hotel, at the foot of the mound, was also 
burnt. The new hotel is larger, stronger, and better j-rotected than its 
predecessors, and will probably remain. Ethan Allen Crawford, " Ethan 
of the Hills," a gigantic hunter and guide, lived on the Giant's Grave 
many years ago, and waged war on the wolves, wild-cats, bears, sables, 
and otters that dwelt among the surrounding hills and brooks. 

The view from this point is very fine, and embraces all the presidential 

peaks save one, the summit of Mt. Washington being 7^ M. distant in an 

air-line. The other summits stretch toward the hotel in a long and rugged 

chain. From this point the ascent of Mt. Washington by rail is easily 

made. The Upper Ammonoosuc Falls are 3 - 4 M. from the hotel, by the 

road to Marshfield, and exhibit a beautiful scene, where white waters 

dash down between gray granite walls, and the vast mts. tower beyond. 

The Lmoer Ammonoosuc Falls are somewhat ftiore than 1 M. distant, on 

the Bethlehem road. The river descends here in full stream over 30 ft. 

of step-like ledges, but the natural beauty of the scene has been marred 

by the intrusion of a large lumber-mill. 

The rates at the Fabyan are $4.50 a day, or $21-25 a week. In the vicinity is 
tlie new Mt. -Pleasant House ($ 3.50 a day), and the antiquated WhUe-Moanialn 
House. The Portland & Ogdens])nrg R. R. crosses the Mt.-Washington Branch 
of the B., C. & M. R. R. in front of the Fabyan. The former runs to the Craw- 
ford House, N. Conway, Fryeburg, and Portland, and to Whitelield, Dalton, and 
the Greeu Mts. of Vermont. The latter runs to the bu-^e of Mt. Washington 
(6 M.), and to the Twin-Mountain House, Betldehem, and Littleton. 

The * Twin Mt. House is 5 M. westward from the Fabyan House, and 
is a favorite old hotel, under the care of the Messrs. BaiTon, pjroprietors 
of the iNIount - Pleasant and Crawford Houses. It is pleasantly 



234 Route 33. BETHLEHEM. 

situated on the heights above the Aminoiioosuc River, and looks across 
the valley to Mt. Hale and the North Twin jNIt. 300 guests can be ac- 
commodated, at $4.50 a day; and the locality is famous as affording ex- 
emption from the attaclvs of hay-fever. The hotel is near the railroad- 
station; and i.s 13 M. fi'om Jefferson Hill, 8 M. from Whitefield, and 5 M. 
from the Fabyan House. The Twin Mts. are rarely ascended, and tlien 
onl}-- with great ditlicult3% A new path was made in 1883. 

Eethlehem. 

Hotels and Boarding-Houses. —The * Sinclair House (Durgin & Fox), at 
the intersection of the roads to the White and Franconia Mts., is a large and finely 
appointed hotel, accommodating 350 guests {^3 a day; $15-25 a week). The 
Be/levue (GO guests) is on the plateau, with broad views towards Littleton and 
Lancaster and the White-Mountain range (3 7 -10 a week). The Mount- A(jassi:i 
House is on the Franconia road, near the Sinclair, and enjoys fine distant views 
($8-14 a week). The S/ravhcrri/-Hlll House, Arenue House, III!, 'side Home, 
JJethlehem House, Cenfennial, Turner, Mt-Wiishiugtoa, Sunset, Howard, Alpine, 
Ranlett's, Blanden's, Simpson's, Faissell's, and Giimore-s Mountain- View House, are 
also in or near the village. Their rates are ^ 7-10 a week, or ^2 a day for transient 
visitors. The Prospect House (G. W. Phillips ; $7-10 a week) is on the lowlands, 
^ M. N. of the street, and looks out on the White Mts. There are also several 
smaller boarding-houses, where from 8 to 20 guests may be acconmiodated, at vary- 
ing rates, depending mainly on the location of I'ooms and the number of occupants. 

Distances. — Bethlehem to the summit of Mt. Washington, 22 M.; Crawford 
House, 17; N. Conway, 42; Bethlehem station, 3; Littleton, 5; Whitefield, 8; 
Lancaster, 16 ; Jefferson Hill, 15; Gorhnm, 32; Profile House, 10; Plymouth (by 
st.ige), 39 ; Cruft's Ledge, 2 ; Wallace Hill, 3^ ; Kimball Hill, 5 ; Sugar Hill, 7i. 

Koutes. — The usual way for passengers from the S. is by the Boston, Concord, 
and Montreal R. R. and its Mt.-Washington Branch, to Bethlehem Junction, where 
the narrow-gauge line is taken for Maplewood and Bethlehem. The morning trains 
from Boston, Springfield, etc., reach this point after mid-aftornoon. Passengers 
from N. Conway to Bethlehem station go through on t!ie Portland and Ogdeusburg 
R. R , by the Notch and the Crawford and Fabyan House. 

Of late years the hamlet of Bethlehem has become the summer-capital 
of the "White Mts., and is annually visited by thousands of tourists. It 
has a capital summer newspaper. The White-Mountain Echo; Cong., 
Epis., and Meth. churches; an efficient system of water-works; several 
interesting summer-shop^; a library; and other conveniences. 

The town of Bethlehem eontaius 9I»8 inhabitants, who are settled in 
three neighborhoods, the Street (or Heights), the Bridge, and the Hollow. 
Along the course of the Ammonoosuc there are large lumber-mills, and 
the farms produce good crop-< of grain, potatoes, and hay. The village of 
Bethlehem Street is on a high |>iateau, 1,450 ft. above the sea, and 2G3 ft. 
above the adjacent Ammonoosuc Valley. The Street is composed of a 



FRANCONIA. Route S3. 234 a 

church, several shops, and a large cluster of boarding-houses and hotels, 
built on the N. side of an elevated ridge which rises higher on the S. and 
liides the Franconia Mts. It looks out to the N. and W. for many leagues, 
viewing the mountains of Lancaster, the Percy Peaks, the Pilot Mts., and 
the great Presidential Kange, whose majestic summits are finely seen. 
The view of the White Mts. is broader and in some respects more impos- 
ing than that from N. Conway; though tlie beautiful environs of the latter 
village give it an advantage. Tlie superior altitude of this ridge and its 
cxjiosure to the N. renders it a very cool place during the summer, even 
■wlien the other mountain-resorts are visited by intense heats. For tlie same 
reason people who are afflicted with hay-fever or rose-cold tind imuiunity 
from their attacks in this high pure air. 



Maplewood. 

* The 3Iapleicood, 400 guests, $ 4 a day, S? 17.50 - 25 a week ; Maplewood Hall, 
150 guests, S 12 -18 a week; Ma2)lewood Cottage, $9-14 a week. 

This great cluster of summer-hotels and cottages was founded by Mr. 
Isaac T. Cruft of Boston, at the eastern end of the high uplifted terrace 
of Bethlehem, 1^ M. from Bethlehem Street, and the same distance from 
Bethlehem Junction. It commands a magnificent view of Mt. Washing- 
ton and the adjacent peaks, as well as of the great valley opening aAvay 
toward Canada. The hotels are the most sumptuous of tiieir kind, and 
attract every summer large companies of boarders, Cruft' s Ledge, the 
observatory, and other view-points are much visited. 



Franconia. 

* Forest ■Ilills Hotel, $ 12.50-20 a week, a nobly situated and very com- 
modious new summer-house on Pine Hill, for 150 guests; Lafayette House, 
60 guests; House of Seven Gables; and several boarding-houses. This 
long-drawn village, with its ancient and abandoned iron-works, is at the 
bottom of the glen under Mt. Lafayette, 4 M. from the Flume House, 5 M. 
from Bethlehem, and 5 M. from Littleton (stages). It is in the most pic- 
turesque location, with dainty bits of meadow, broad forests, and unri- 
valled mountain-views, and j^early attracts thousands of summer-guests. 
It is on the main highway from the Prolile House to Bethlehem and 
Littleton. 



234 5 Route 33. MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

Sugar Hill. 

Hotels. — Goodnow TIoxi.se, 200 guests, $ 12 -15 a week ; Sunset-Hill House, 
200 guests, $ 12 - 15 ti week ; Phillips House, 75 guests, S 7 - 10 ; Elm Cottaye, Fair 
Vieiv, Echo Farm, M(xpleside, Vedar Cotta/je, 25 guests e;icb, $7 a week each. 

Distances. — Lisbon, 7 M. ; Bethlehem, 7^ ; Profile House, 8 ; i<'lume, 13; 
¥niiicoiji.i (to Gooiliiow), 1 ; ijittletou, 8. 

Stages from Lisbou to the Sunset-llill House ; and from Littleton to the Good- 
now House. 

Tlie high rulge of Sugar Hill commands perhaps the most complete 
view ill the White-Mt. region, including both the Presidential and !• ran- 
conia Ranges. It towers over the deep glen in which nestles Franeonia 
village, and is happily exposed to coo! breezes. There are many pleasant 
rambles and drives in the vicinity; and within a few years Sugar Hill 
has become one of the foi'emost of the White-Mt. summer-resorts. The 
Goodnow House and Phillips House are 1 M. from Franconia Iron Works; 
and li M. beyond, on the crest of the long ridge, is the Sunset-Hill House, 
commanding very impressive vicAvs of the White and Franconia ranges, 
on the E., and the long line of the Green Mts. (of Vermont) on the VV. 
Sugar Hill is exempt from hay -fever, being more than 1,500 ft. above the 
sea. There are many beautiful drives and rambles in this region. 



Mount WasMngton. 

Travellers who design to ascend this nit. should be carpful to carry sufficient 
warm clothing (shawls, overcoats, &c.), for the air on the suiinnit is often ex- 
tremely cold, even in August. Daniel Wel)ster said here, " Mt. Washington, I 
liave come a long distance, luive toiled hard to anive at your summit, and now 
you seem to give me a cold reception." There are many who will echo tliese 
words. If the ascent from the Crawford House or from Randolph Hill is under- 
taken, a reliable guide must be secured, and an early start sliould be made. The 
view from the summit cannot be contidently counted upon, since the mt. is ol'ten 
enveloped in suddenly rising fogs, and the days when the remote points of view 
are visible are very few. A powerful field-glass wDl be found of material assist- 
ance. 

Hotel. The Mt. -Washington Summit Ho2(se accommodates 150-200 guests, 
charging §1.50 for each meal $5 a day, $25 a week. It is a strong three-story 

Iniilding, heated by steam, and with telegriiph and i>ost otiict*. 

The Itailway. The lower station is 1,500 ft. below the old Aminonoosuc or 
Marshlield station, or '6 1-10 M. from the sunnuit. At the same point is the ter- 
minus of the Mt.-"\r\"ashington Branch R. R., from the Fabyan House and all 
Xioints beyond Morning and afternoon trains on this line i-onnect here with the 
mountain-trains. The fare for the ascent or descent of Mt. Washington is $ 3 ; 
for the ascent and return, on the same train, '^i. 

There are two trains daily each way during the season, with occasional 
extras. Over 7,000 persons ascended by tliis route in 1875. The engine stops to 
take water four times. The road and stock cost over §150,000. 



MOUNT WASHINGTON. Route 33. 235 

This railway was built in 186G-9, on the plans of Sylvester Marsh, 

and a .similar road has since been made up Mount Rhigi, by the Lake of 

Lucerne. Amnionoosuc Station is 2,668 ft. above the sea, and the track 

ascends 3,625 ft. in 3 M., with an average grade of 1 ft. in 4^, and a 

maximum grade of 1 ft. in 2j, or 1,980 ft. to the M. The chief peculiarity 

of the track is a heavy notched iron centre-rail, into which plays a centre 

cog-wheel on the locomotive. The steam-power is not used during the 

descent, but the powerful atmospheric brakes regulate the speed of the 

train. The cars are very comfortable, and the ascent is made in 90 

minutes, during which time it is pleasant to think that, though these 

trains have been running for 7 years, not a single passenger has been 

injured. As the train slowly ascends over the trestles, pushed by the 

grotesque little engine, the retrospect becomes more and more beautiful, 

and a profound and gloomy chasm is passed on the r. The ridge between 

Clay and Washington is now neared, and an immense mt. amphitheatre 

is passed on the 1., soon after which the train crawls up Jacob's Ladder, 

and stops at the new station and hotel on the summit of Mt. Washington. 

The Ascent from the Glen House. Mountain carriages leave tlie Glen 
Houiie niorniny aud alternuon lur the summit, which is 8 M. distant. The tare 
(including tolls) is v'5.00, and the tikie of ascent 3 hrs., wliile the descent is made 
in 1^ hrs. The road (built 1855-61) is a noble iiiece of engineering, winding on 
galleries and long curves, with an average grade of 12 ft. in 100. 

Most of the route to the Ledge (4 M. up) is enclosed by forests, but 
beyond this point the road passes along the verge of the profound hollow 
called the Great Gulf. From this point the * view is superb, embracing 
the Peabody Glen, with the hotel lying like a snow-flake at the base of 
the heavy green mass of Carter Mt. " Yet the glory of the view is, after 
all, the four highest companion mts. of the range. Clay, Jefferson, Adams, 
and Madison, that show themselves in a bending line beyond the tremen- 
dous gorge, and are visible from their roots to their siimmits. " With one 
exception " there is no such view to be had, east of the Mississippi, of 
mountain architecture and sublimity." The road now passes along the 
verge of the Great Gulf, with the lofty gray peaks on the r., Avinds and 
twists over dreary slopes covered with the skeletons of dead trees and 
the flora of Labrador, surmounts shoulder after shoulder of the storm- 
eaten mt., climbs the sharp, steep, supreme cone, and then the panting 
horses stop " on the main-top of New England.' 

The Ascsnt from the Crawford House. (To Mt. Clinton, 3 M. ; Mt. 
Pleasant, 4^ ; Mt. Franklin, 5^ ; Mt. Monroe, 6f ; Mt. -Washington Sum- 
mit House, 8|.) This route is peculiarly attractive, since it passes over 
several noble summits, revealing immense views. Tlie path is well-worn, 
and is perfcjctly safe, except in cloudy or misty weather. 

Upon leaving the hotel the ascent of Mt. Clinton is commenced, and 
after passing over a rude forest-path for nearly 3 M. the mossy summit is 



238 Route 33. MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

reached (4,320 ft. above the pea). A great expanse of blue peaks is seen 
from this poiut, Avitli bright lakes on the S. E., and Kiarsarge, "the 
queenly nit.," lifting its pyramidal cone in the same direction. The path 
■winds along the crest-line of a higli, bare, and ledgy ridge, and then 
passes around the S. side of the dome-like peak of Mt. Pleasant. A 
path diverges to the summit (4,764 ft. high), whence the old and disused 
Fabyan trail leads doAvn to the Ammonoosuc valley. The round and 
grassy summit of Pleasant overlooks the whole extent of the valley. The 
tracks of formidable slides are seen as the path descends to another 
plateau, and, passing Bed Pond, clambers up Mt. Franklin. The summit 
(4,900 ft. high) is near the path, and commands a vast prospect,terminated 
by Chocorua, almost due S. and 20 M. distant. Between Franklin and 
Monroe the path passes over a narrow ridge which is the water-shed of 
the Connecticut and Saco Rivers. There are one or two dangerous places 
on this tliin and lofty escarpment, and on the r, is the deep and terrible 
chasm of Oakes' Gulf, while the Ammonoosuc valley stretches away on 
the other hand. This is one of the most remarkable points of view in the 
mts. Monroe is now rounded on the S. side, and the rough scramble to its 
E. peak (5,384 ft. high) is rewarded by another vast prospect. Mt. 
Washington now looms ahead as the path descends to the plateau on 
which are the Lake of the Clouds and Star Lake, two deep and crystalline 
tarns where the Ammonoosuc is born. 1^ M. from the lakes is the bleak 
crest of Washington, and from the E. verge of the plateau is afforded a 
remarkalde view down Tuckerman's Ravine. There remains a sharp 
ascent among the rocks on the S. W. side of the peak, with a rise equal to 
1,200 ft. per]>endicular, and then the summit is gained. 

The Route over tlie Northern Peaks is only practicable for strong 
pedestrians, who should be also efficiently guided, and should arrange to 
encamp for one night, since the journey is too long for a single day. The 
only path is that opened in 1876 by Chas. E. Lowe (who is a reliable 
guide), which ascends Mt. Adams from a point 8 M. W. of Gorham, on 
the road to Jefferson Hill. It runs 2 M. tJirough great woods, ^ M. 
through thickets, and 1| M. over bare and rocky ridges. Mt. Madi- 
son may be ascended from Hoinker's, on the N. E., but there is no 
path (4| M. to the summit). The Gordon path has disappeared, and the 
old Gorham guides seek the hills no moi'e. The passage of King's Ra- 
vine is too arduous to be enjoyable. Loioe's path is the best route to 
the northern peaks, and in its course the noble pyramid of Adams is 
crossed, opening a striking * view. On the N. the mts. of Kilkenny, 
Randolph, and Gorham, with the long valley of the Androscoggin, and in 
the remote distance the lakes of Umbagog and Rangeley. The Glen and 
the green wall of Carter Mt. are on the E., while the vast dome of Wash- 
ington is uplifted in the S. Crossing now the bending ridge to Mt. Jeflfer- 



MOUNT WASHINGTON. Route 33. 237 

son, a continual front view of Washington is afforded, and after passing 
over Jeflerson the Great Gulf is seen bending around on the 1. Mt. Clay 
is now ascended, and, after a short descent, the long slope of Washington 
is climbed to the summit. 

The Fabyau path from the Giant's Grave to the top of Mt. Pleasant, 
and thence over Franklin and Monroe to Mt. Washington, is now dis- 
used ; while the old bridle-path from the W. slope, and the Davis path 
from the Mt. Crawford House, are but rarely traversed. The railway 
and carriage routes are tlie favorites, the iirst being easier and cheaper, 
and the last being richer in scenery. 

The * * view from Mt. Washington is the most grand and extensive in 
New England. In the S. is the Giant Stairs Mt. and the round top of 
Mt. Crawford, with Chocorua farther away, and Ossipee near the gleam 
of Lake Winnepesaukee, 3.5 M. distant. S. of W. is Mt. Carrigain, and 
the noble peaks of the Sandwich Range are beyond, while 100 M. away 
is Monaduock, " a filmy angle in the base of the sky." To the S. W. the 
peaks of Monroe, Franklin, Pleasant, and Clinton stretch off in a straight 
line, while the dark crests of Franconia fill the W., overlooked by the 
bald cone of Lafayette. Across the Connecticut are remote blue sum- 
mits of the Green Mts., with Mt. Mansfield and the Camel's Hump, 70 
M. away. Stretching toward the N. W., only a few miles distant, are 
Cherry Mt., Mt. Starr King, and the hills of Kilkenny, over which the 
graceful Percy Peaks (Stratford) are seen, " as near alike in size and 
shape as two Dromios." Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison loom 
across the Great Gulf in the N. and N. W. Glimpses of the Androscoggin 
are next obtained, and 35 - 50 M. W. of N. Lake Umbagog and the 
Rangeley Lakes are seen, with the dim Canadian highlands far to the N. 
A vast area of the State of Maine is outsjiread in the E., and it is claimed 
that Mt. Katahdin may be seen '^looming out of the central wilderness 
of Maine, cutting the yellowish horizon with the hue of Damascus steel." 
But Katahdin is 150 M. distant. Mts. Hayes, Moriah, and Carter are 
seen more surely in the N. E. The lofty hills over Chatham fill the 
nearer E., and the eye follows down Pinkliam Notch to N. Conway on its 
fair meadows, with Kiarsarge impending above. Beyond are seen Love- 
well's Pond, by Fryeburg, and the bright Sebago Lake, while the ocean is 
sometimes visible in the remote S. E., merging with the weary horizon. 

*Tuckernian's Ravine is visited from the summit, and is 14 M. dis- 
tant by a route marked by splashes of white paint on the rocks. The 
Appalachian Mountain Club has had a good path made from the Crystal 
Cascade (see page 227) into the ravine. Another path leaves the moun- 
tain road 2 M. from the Glen, and runs in for 2| M. The lofty curving 
precipice-walls reach an altitude of 1,000 ft. or more. Immense massc>s 
of snow are piled up here, and renuiiu until August. The Crystal 



238 Route 34. THE FEANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 

Stream flows down under this incipient glacier and cuts a long arch under 
the hardened snow, through which one can walk for hundreds of feet. 
Tlie cliffs back of the ravine are striped, after rains, with fallmg waters, 
called the " Fall of a Thousand Streams." After exploring this wonder- 
ful abyss, parties sometimes pass to the Glen House by following the 
Crystal Stream, with its many cascades, to the N. Conway road. 

34. The Franc onia Mountains and Pemigewasset Valley. 

From Nexo York to Franconia by Hartford, Sprinp,field, Wells River, and Litlle- 

toii ; by Albany, Rutland, Bellows Falls, and Littleton ; by yprinyfield, Nashua, 

ami C(jn('ord ; or by boat to New London, and thence to Brattleboi'o, Wells River, 

' and Littleton. The connections are frequently changed, and the tourist should 

get a late time-table and railway-guide before choosing his route. 

From Boston to Francnnla by Routes 29 and 30, to Wells River, Littleton, and 
Wing Road ; thence to Bethlehem Junction ; thence, by narrow-gauge railroad 
across the wild Gale-River gleu and around the rugged slopes of Mt. Lafayette to 
the Profile House. This is the easiest route to the Franconia Notch. 

Or, leave the B., C, & M. R. R, at Plymouth {see page 210), and take the Pemi- 
gewasset-Valley train by Campton Village, Thornton, and W. Thornton to N. 
Woodstock, whence stages to the Flume House (4 M.) and Profile House (9 M.). 

The * Profile House (1,974 ft. above the sea) accommodates 5 - 600 
guests, and is one of the best of the mt. hotels. Its corridors are crowded 
during the summer with visitors from the coast-cities, and its dining-hall 
is said to be the finest in New England. This hotel is open from June 1st 
until the middle of October; its tenns are §4.50 a day, with reductions 
for a long sojourn. 

The* Franconia Notch is about 5 M. long, and less than \ M. wide, 
and is on the western verge of the Franconia Range proper. "The 
narrow district thus enclosed contains more objects of interest to the 
mass of travellers than any other region of equal extent within the com- 
pass of the usual White Mt. tour. In the way of rock-sculpture and 
waterfalls it is a huge museum of curiosities." (Starr King.) "The 
scenery of Franconia is more fantastic and beautiful than Dalecarlia or 
Norshmd." (Fredrika Bremer.) 

* Echo Lake is a short distance N. of the hotel, on the r. of the Little- 
ton road, and is a calm, deep, and lovely sheet of transparent water, 
encircled by rare scenery. During the day it reflects vividly the sur- 
rounding objects, but the later hours of the afternoon are the pleasantest, 
when the visitor can be transported over the quiet waters and see the 
forest-shores and mts. in the flush of evening. Remarkable echoes are 
awakened here by the bugle, voice, or cannon-shots. " Franconia is more 
fortunate in its little tarn tliat is rimmed l)y the undisturbed wilderness, 
and watched by the grizzled peak of Lafayette, than in the Old Ston^ 
Face from which it has gained so mucli celebrity." 



THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. Route 34. 239 

Bald Mt. is ascended by a neglected carriage-road, "vvliich diverges to 
the r. from tlie road al)ont 1 M. N. of the hotel. The view from the 
summit is pleasing, especially just before sunset, when, besides the noble 
hills to the N. and the huge, conical Haystack Mt. to the E., a fine south- 
erly prospect is given, embracing the narrow notch, with Lafayette tower- 
ing on the 1. and Mt. Profile on the r. Echo Lake is seen in the nearer 
foreground. 

Profile Mt., or Mt. Cannon, is ascended by a steep foot-path S. of the 
hotel, in 2-3 hrs. The* view is of great beauty, including the Bethle- 
hem heights on the N., with Haystack, Lafayette, and the Mt. Washing- 
ton group on the E. and N. E. On the S., between Mts. Pemigewasset 
and Liberty, stretches far into the distance the fair and fruitful valley of 
the Pemigewasset Piiver. On the sunmiit is a rock which is supposed to 
resemble a cannon, and visitors often descend thence to the vicinity of 
the ledges which form the Profile. On the slope of this mt. (and reached 
by following the aqueduct into the woods back of the old Lafayette 
House) is a lively brook Vi-hich exhibits some fine cascades after heavy 
rains. Good views of Echo Lake and Eagle Clitf, with the highland val- 
leys to the N., may be obtained from the brookside. 

* * The Profile is best seen from a point by the roadside (marked by a 
guide-board) a few rods S. of the hotel. 1,200 ft. above the road, three 
enormous masses of rock project from the side of the mt., in the exact 
resemblance of the profile of an old man's face, with firmly dra^vn chin, 
lips slightly parted, and a well-proportioned nose surmounted by a mas- 
sive brow. It is " 2L moimtain which breaks into human expression, a 
piece of scnlptiTre older than the Sphinx, an intimation of the human 
countenance, which is the crowii of all beauty, that was pushed out from 
the coarse strata of New England thousands of years before Adam. 
The legend of "The Great Stone Face," as told by Hawthorne, belongs 
to this place. Directly below the Profile (which is 40 ft. long) and near 
the road, is the crystal tarn called Profile Lake, or the Old Man's Wash- 
bowl, a sequestered and beautiful sheet of water, from whose bosom is 
obtained a pleasing sunset view of the majestic Eagle Cliff. This is the 
best point from which to see that lofty and remarkable cliff (1,500 ft. 
high) which projects from the mt. opposite the Profile House. Near 
Profile Lake is the Trout-house, containing many tame breeding-trout. 

Mt. Lafayette, "the Duke of Western Coos," is 5,259 ft. high, and is 
ascended \)y a bridle-path diverging to the 1. from the road, close by 
the Profile House, and rounding Eagle Clifl' (3| M. long). The path is 
steep and arduous, but tlie ascent may easily be accomj)lished in 3- 4 hrs., 
with horses and guides from the Profile House. After a long ascent 
through the dense forest which covers the lower slopes, the path emerges 
(near the briglit waters of the Eagle Lakes) upon a bare and rugged tract 



240 Route 34. THE FRxiNCONIA MOUNTAINS. 

which affords an extensive off-look. The *view from the summit ig 
broad and beautiful, with the Peniigewasset valley as its most pleasing 
feature, stretching S. to Pljnuouth (20 M. distant). The clustering 
Pemigewasset Mts. are seen in the S. W. ; " but the lowlands are the 
glory of the spectacle which Lafayette shows his guests. The valleys of 
the Connecticut and Merrimac are spread W. and S. W. and S. With 
what pomp of color are their growing harvests inlaid upon the floor of 
New England!" Mts. Monadnock (90 M.) and Kearsarge (over 50 M.) 
are W. of S. , while certain peaks of the Green ]Mts. of Vermont are in 
the distant W. In the N. W. and N. are the bright villages of Littleton 
and Lancaster, with the rural districts of upper Coos, while the Profile 
and Echo Lakes are close below in the glen over which Profile Mt. towers. 
The Percy Peaks are nearly due N. beyond the blue Pilot Mts., and 
Haystack Mt. lifts its huge mass close at hand in the N. E. E. and N. 
E., 15-20 M, distant, is the great presidential group, with Mt. Wash- 
ington nobly overlooking the rest. 

The * Flume House (.S14-21 a week) is a neat and well-conducted 
hotel, 5 M. S. of the Profile House (frequent stages). Mt. Liberty is oppo- 
site the house, and Mt. Pemigewasset is behind it, while the rich southern 
valley is seen for leagues from this position. The last-named mt. is often 
ascended for a few hundred ft., toward the sunset hour, when " the spurs 
and hollows of Lafayette and his associates are lighted up by the splendor 
that pours into them from the west." About 2 M. N. of the Flume 
House a succession of pretty cascades may be found by ascending the 
course of a brook Avhich crosses the road. l^M. N. of the house, by the 
roadside, is the Basin, a granite bowl 60 ft. in circumference and 10 ft. 
deep, filled with clear water. " The best way to enjoy the beauty of the 
Basin is to ascend to the highest of the cascades that slide along a mile 
of the mountain at the W. Then follow do^vn by their j)athways, as 
they make the rocks now white witli foam, now glassy with thin, smootli, 
transparent sheets, till they mingle tlieir water witli the Pemigewasset at 
the foot, and, pouring their common treasury around the groove worn in 
the rocky roof, fall with musical s^Dlash into the shadowed reservoir be- 
neath." 

The Pool is gained in 20 minutes by a path leading into the forest op- 
posite the house. It is a basin cut in the solid rock, 150 ft. wide and 
over 100 ft. below the level of the path, with 40 ft. depth of dark, cold 
water. Visitors can descend to the level of the Avater, where an eccentric 
hermit dwells in a rude boat. The old patli to the Flume is no longer 
available. 

* The Flume is reached by a road diverging to the 1. a short distance 
S. of the hotel, which runs to the foot of the lower cascade. From that 
point a path ascends by the smooth ledges over which the cascades glide 



THE PROFILE HOUSE TO PLYMOUTH. Route 34. 241 

musically to the enti-ance of the Flume. After passiug the miserable hut 
which stands at the mouth of this wonderful ravine, the full power of 
the scene is felt. A substantial plank-walk has been built along the 
course of the stream, which it often crosses. The ravine is about 700 ft. 
long, and its precipitous rock-walls are 60-70 ft. high. The walls are 
about 20 ft. apart for most of the distance, but approach each other more 
closely near the upper end, where the gorge is narrowed to 10 ft. The 
huge boulder which long hung suspended here was swept away in 1883, 
when a formidable slide from the mountain above rushed through the 
Flume. By clambering along the musical cascade to the upper end of 
the ravine, one can reach the edge of the cliffs above and look down into 
the Flume. 

Georgeanna (or Harvard) Falls are S. W. of the hotel, and are reached 
by a forest-path that leaves the Plymoutli road 1 M. S. of the hotel (giiide 
at the farmhouse). After a long ascent which follows the stream through 
the forest, the falls are seen, " making two leaps of 80 ft. each, one im- 
mediately after the other, which, as we climb towards them, gleam as one 
splendid line of light through the trees and shrubbery that fringe the 
lofty cleft." From the ledge above these falls is gained "the stalwartest 
prospect in all Franconia." 

The Profile House to Phftnouth. 

(Stages leave two or three times a day for N. Woodstock, where the 
train is taken.) The road leads through the narroAv glen for 5 M., passes 
the Flume House, between Mts. Pemigewasset and Liberty, and then de- 
scends to a more open country. The front view is line, ''so soft and 
delicate are the general features of the outlook over the widening Pemige- 
wasset valley, so rich the gradation of the lights over the miles of gently 
sloping forest that sweep down towards Campton!" 4 M. beyond the 
Flume House the rugged town of Lincoln is left, with its 32,456 acres of 
land barely supporting a resident population of 71 persons. Woothiock is 
now traversed, with Black, Blue, and Cushman's Mts. on the W., and 
Wanosha on the E., beyond which are glimpses of the peaks toward the 
White-Mt. Notch. This town has 8 or 10 boarding-houses, whose prices 
range from $7.00 to % 10.00 a week. 

Beyond Woodstock a fine * retrospect is affoixled, where " the arrange- 
ment of the principal Franconia Mts. in half-sexagon — so that we get a 
strong impression of their mass, and yet see their separate steelj' edges, 
gleaming with ditferent lights, ruiming down to the valley — is one of 
the rare pictures in N. H. What a noble combination, — those keen 
contours of the Haystack pyramids, and the knotted muscles of Mt. 
Lafayette beyond ! " 

11 P 



2-12 Route 31 WATEllVILLE, 

In "Woodstock are the summer boMrdiug-liouses of Dura P. Pollard, 
G. G. Baston, Curtis L. Parker, J. iJrjfant, A. W. Sawder, aud otheis, 
charging .*?6- 10 a week. The train is taken at N. Woodstock, and runs 
S. to IV. Thornton (Valley House) and TlioniUni, (Merrill House; Foss's; 
Jenkins's), rich in mountain and meadow scenerj'. 

CamptDil Village (Sunset-Hill Houst; HllUhle; Brook-Farm; and 
boarding-houses of S. C. Wiiley, C Cutter, F. A. Mitchell, C. G. Web- 
ster, etc., .S5-10 a week) is a favorite summer-resort, very quiet and 
restful, surrounded by lovely scenery, and much visited by artists. At 
W. Campton is Sanborn's Hotel, and farther S. is Blair's. Welch Mt. is 
prominent in the landscape; the Sandwich Mts. are on the E. ; and Mt. 
Prospect and Livermore Falls are in the vicinity (S. E. and S.). The 
Devil's Den is a deep cave at Campton Hollow; and the views of the 

Franconia Range from Durgin's Hill, and of (he broad valley from the 
School House Hill are much a<lmired. Following now the Pemigewasset 
River, the train reaclifs Plymouth (see pas^e 210). 

Waterville {Gr,ehii\< Jfount'im House) is 12 JI. N. E. of Campton, 
and 18 M. from Plymouth, by a road leading up the Mad-l.'iver valley. 
There is good trout-tishing in this rugged toWii (which has but 54 inhab- 
ilants), and some very romantic scenery^ Portions of the Sandwich Range 
lie in WaterviHe, forming bold and picturesque mt. gronjis, while the 
lofty peak of Osceola (4.400 ft. higli) is in the N. E. There is a path to 
the summit of Osceola, and the view thence is grand. 

On the S. are the principal peaks of the Sandwich Range, Black Mt., White 
Face, and Bald Knob, with distant views of Mt. Ascutney aud Wlunepesaukee, 

the former being aliout 8. W. Looking aci'oss tlie Pemigewasset valley the west- 
ern hills and the distant Green Mts. ai-e seen. In the N. AV. are the Franconia 
Mts., with Lafayette's conical peak most conspicuous. The heavy mass of Mt. 
Carrigain is close at hand, and nearly N., while farther are the jjeaks around the 
Notcli, with Mt. Washington and the presidential group far beyond. N. of E. 
are Bear and Double Head Mts., over Pinkham Notch, with Moat Mt. hiding N. 
Conway, and Kiarsarge towering beyond, while the eye follows the Swift River 
valley for IS M. to Conway. Below Conway, and nearly 40 M. distant, is Sebago 
Lake, and 25 M. beyond the ocean may be seen on clear days. 

The Flume, on a brook 3J-4 M. from the hotel, with Horton's Cave 
and the falls on Cascade Brook, are frequently visited. Adventuious 
parties have penetrated the forests to the N. E. to the White Mt. Notch 
road, while the route by Flat-Mt. Pond leads by a rude bridle-path to 
Sandwich (on the S.). The trail to the Notch (a guide should be taken) 
leads first to Greeley Pond, under Mt. Osceola (5 M. from the hotel), and 
then, leaving Mt. Carrigain on the 1., passes through the forest to the upper 
part of Sawyer's River. The course of this stream is followed until it 
reaches the Notch road, at a }ioint altout midway between the Upper 
Bartlett and Mt. C^rawford Houses (3 M. from each), aud about 15 M. from 
Greeley's. The path has been cleared recently, and its N. part is made 
easy by tiie new Sawyer's-River R. R. running into t!ie forest as far as 
Livermore {Trenwnt Cottage), 



DIXVILLE NOTCH. Route 35, 213 



35. The Percy Peaks, Bixville Fetch, and lake TJmbagog. 

The station and village of Groveton {Melcher Housp., $2 a day, 
$8-10 a week) is 10 M. N. of Lancaster, and 31 M. N. of Govham. It 
is near the confluence of the Up^ier Aninionoosuc and Connecticut Rivers, 
and is connected with GuiLlhall, tlie shire-town of Essex County, Ver- 
mont, by a bridge near the falls in the latter river. The town was settled 
in 1767, and fortified during the Revolution. Moose, Bellamy, and Cape 
Horn Mts. are in the vicinity, and from this point the ascent of the Percy 
Peaks is usually undertaken. Passengers for Dixville and the North go 
from Groveton by the Grand Trunk Railway. 

The line passes N. along the Conn, valley with the Percy Peaks on the 
r... stops at Stratford Holloio, and then at N. Stratford (Willard House; 
Percy), whence the stage usually leaves in the evening for 
Colebrook, 13 M. N. E. The road follows the Conn. River closely, cross- 
ing the thinly populated forest-town of Columbia, and then, flanking the 
vast mass of Monadnock Mt., enters the pretty village of Colebrook 
Parsons House, accommodating 100 guests, at ^7-10.00 a week ; Monad- 
nock House). The Dix House is at the entrance to Dixville Notch. 

This town was named in honor of Sir George Colebrook, an English knight, to 
whom it was originally granted. It is the nortliern shire-town of Coos County, 
whicli has an area of 1,950 square miles, with a ])opulation of 15,580, and a valua- 
tion of §4,9-16,910. Altliougli New England is the stronghold of the Republican 
party, it is a curious fact that Cocis and the other three mountain counties, 
Belknap, Carroll, and Grafton, usually go Democratic by fair majorities. Cole- 
brook has 4 cluirfhes and 1,372 inhabitants. It is said that \ of the potato starch 
in America is made in this town (by 8 factories). 

Excellent trout-fishing is found on the sequestered streams in this 
vicinity. Mt. Monadnock is near the village, and may be ascended by a 
path leading in 4-5 M. to its summit. The Beaver Brook Falls are 
about 4 M. distant, and are well worthy of a visit. 

Dixville Notch 

is 10 M. S. E. of Colebrook, and is reached by a road leading up the valley 
of the Mohawk River, a pretty stream which affords good trout-fishing. 
"The Dixville Notch is, briefly, picturesque, — a fine, gorge between a 
crumbling conical crag and a scarped precipice, — a place easily defensible, 
except at the season when raspberries would distract sentinels." (Theo- 
dore WiNTHROP.) This pass is in the town of Dixville, which has 31,000 
acres of landand32 inhabitants, with a valuation of ^ 20,000. The Notch 
is not a mountain-pass, but a wonderful ravine among high hills, whose 
impending cliffs are worn and broken into strange forms of ruin and deso- 
lation. "At Dixville, all is decay, wreck; the hopeless submission of 
matter in tlie coil of its hungry foes." Tlie first view of the Notch is 



244 Route 35. LAKE UMBAGOG. 

disappointing, since it is entered at a high level by the road which has 
been ascending all the way from Colebrook. No mountainous line i^i seen 
in front, and it is only after leaving the great forest and makhig a sharp 
turn to the r. and a short, steep ascent, that the high, columnar sides are 
seen frowning at each other across the narrow cliasm. These cliffs of 
decaying mica slate present a scene of ruin, trausitoriness, and shattered 
strength, that is mournful and almost repulsive, 

* Table Rock is on the r. of the road, and is reached by a rude stairway 
of stone blocks called Jacob's Ladder, whose divergence from the road is 
marked by a guide-board near the top of tlie first steep rise. The Rock is 
561 ft. above the road and 2,450 ft. above the sea, and is a narrow pin- 
nacle only about 8 ft. wide at the top, with sharp, precipitous sides. 

The view is very extensive from this point. Monadnock looms boldly in the 
W. with other and more distant sunuuits in Vermont ; the Canadian Hereford Mt. 
is in tlie N. W. ; niiile Connecticut Lake and the Magalloway Mts. are in the N. 
To the E. are the broad ]>lains of Errol and the iiiijter Androscoggin valley. But 
the most inii)rcssive sight is the dreary pass below with its broken palisades seem^ 
ing ready to fall at any moment. The rock-spires o]iposite, which aw seen from 
the road as clearly outlined against the sky, from this ]>oint lose their sharpness 
of form against the dark background of a lofty hill which towers over them. 

Above Table Rock a short path leads to the Ice Cave, a profound cliasm 
wliere snow and ice may be found throughout the summer. Tlie Profde 
is seen from a guide-board on the r. of the road, high up on the cliffs, 
while tlie Pulpit is pointed out on the 1. Farther on, a board on the r. 
directs attention to the refreshing waters of Clear Spring, and another 
board on the 1. points out Washington's Monument and the Pinnacle, 
reniarkal)le rock-formations which have recently been developed by clear- 
ing away tiie forests. A sign on the 1. shovv's the path leading to the 
Flume, where a brook runs through a gorge in the rock, which is spanned 
by a rustic bridge. The flume is 20 ft. deep and 10 ft. wide, and has been 
formed by the erosion of a trap-dike. At the foot of the Notch (wliich 
is 1^ M. long), a board directs to the r. to the Cascades, before which 
is the grove where excui'sion-parties usually dine. Beyond the grove 
is a neat rustic bridge and seat, liefore a small cascade, and by following 
a rugged i)ath up stream on the 1. (15 minutes) a cliff-side seat is readied, 
from which a noble series of falls are seen, descending sheer from the 
precipice above. 

The Clear Stream Meadow's are below the E. side of the Notch and 
present a scene of pastoral beauty that strongly contrasts with the deso- 
late region behind. 

From this point the return is i;sually commenced, though parties of 
gentlemen prepared for a forest expedition sometimes go on to Errol Dam 
(Errol House ; Akers House) 13 M. distant. A steamer leaves the Dam 
semi-weekly for the Ui)per Magallow^ay River, and also for the Lake 
House, in Upton, at tlie foot of L^^ke Und^agog. Wiiithiop tells ("Life 



BOSTON TO CAPE ANN. Route 36. 245 

in the Open Air ") of his voyage in a small boat to the Rangeley Lakes, 
passing through Umbagog, tlien over a 3 M. portage, and thence travers- 
ing the Lakes Welocksebacook, AUegiindabagog, Mollychunkamu^ and 
Moosetocmaguntic to Rangeley (see Route 41). From the Lake Hofflse at 
the S. end of Umbagog, semi-weekly stages rnn to Bethel (see Route 40). 
Connecticut Lake (Conn. Lake House) is 25 M. N. E. of Colebrook, 
It is 5^ M. long by 2J M. wide, and abounds in fish. A small steamer 
plies over its waters. 4 M. N. E. through the forest is Second Lake, 2| 
M. long by 2 M. Avide, while still fartlier N. is Third Lake, covering 200 
acres, and on the border of Canada is Fourth Lake, the source of the Con- 
necticut River. The latter lake covers 3 acres, and is 2,500 ft. above the 
sea. S. E. of Connecticut Lake the Magalloway Mts. are seen, while 
from its lower end the Connecticut River ("Quonektacut," meaning Long 
River, or River of Pines) flov/s down a long cascade. These lakes are in 
Pittsburg, a town of 200,000 acres, with but 400 inhabitants. Game 
abounds in the forests, and fish in the streams. 

36. Boston to Cape Ann. 

Trains several times a day, from Eastern R. R station, on Causeway St. To Man- 
chester, 25 M.; Gloucester, 31 ; Kockport, 35. Daily steamboats from Boston. 

Boston to Beverly, see page 2-18. Thence a branch line runs N. E., with 
fine views of Salem harbor, by Frlde^s Crossing^ Btverly Farms, and W. 
Manchester, Avhere there are noble sea-side villas and estates of wealthy 
Bobtonians. Manchester-by-the-Sea (Manchester House, ^7 a week) is 
a quaint little maritime village, about ^ M. from the great * Afascono mo 
House ($3.50 a da}' ; $25-40 a week; billiards, bowling, sail-boats, teie^ 
graph, gas), near Eagle Head, the Singing Beach, etc. It stands on a fine 
headland, with a vast sea-view. The beach is hard and smooth. Inter- 
esting drives landward. Magnolia (Hesperus, Ocean-Side, and Crescent- 
Beach Houses, $12-20 a week each; Oak-Grove, Sea-View, and Willow 
Cottage, $8-12 each), 2-2^ M., from the obscure Magnolia station, is a 
very popular summer-resort, on fine rocky bluffs over the sea, smd near 
Norman's Woe (see page 24G). Wm. M. Hunt's picturesque studio, 77/e 
Hulk, is here; and his disciples still haunt the adjacent cliffs and forests. 
James Freeman Clarke's smnmer-home is near by. Beyond dreary hills, 
the ridge of "the land of rocks and roses " (Cape Ann), the train reaches 

Gloucester (Gloucester Hotel; Ocean; Webster; each $ 7 - 10 a week ; Pa- 
vilion, Sy-lS). At Good-Harbor Beach, Bass-Rock House (U M. out, $ 12 - iiO 
a week) ; at E. Gloucester, Harbor-View, Delphiue, Fair-View, Seaside, and Pebbly- 
Beach Houses, 11 - 2 M. out, and ;$ 7 - 10 a week each. 

Gloucester, the foremost fishing port in the world, stands on a fine harbor 
of Cape Ann, and has 20,000 inhabitants, 15 cliurclies, and 5 baid^s. It is 
the end of the famous North, Shore, lined with patrician Bostouian villas, 
and celebrated in art, poetry, and history. 



246 Route 36. GLOUCESTER. 

The City Hall is a new and elegant structure of brick, in the 
modern French style of architecture. The inner harbor is guarded, by 
Ten Pound Island, and j^resents a rare scene of bustle and activity, being 
the very home of scliooners. Tlie outer harbor is i)votected from the sea 
by Eastern Point, with its lighthouse and fort, while on the W. shore is 
the Stage Fort (erected during the Secession War) from which is obtained 
a pretty view of the harbor and toAvn. Directly across the harbor from 
the city is E. Gloucester, from whose rugged hills the compact streets, 
with tlie church-spires and the Collins School and lofty City Hall, make 
a pretty scene (the best near views are from Rocky Neck). Several large 
summer boarding-houses are scattered over the E. Gloucester peninsula, 
which has wild and rugged scenery on the seaward side. On Little Good 
Harbor is a beach, at the S. end of which are the Bass Rocks, where the 
surf rolls in grandly after an easterly gale. The City Hall Tower over- 
looks the pretty suburbs of Brookbank and Steepbank, and views the 
open sea beyond E. Gloucester. Within 5 minutes' walk of the City Hall 
is Fort Point, a small, rocky promontory covered with fish-flakes, Avith 
the remains of an old fort on its highest point. Near by (and 3 minutes' 
walk from the Gloucester Hotel) is a curving beach, facing the surf from 
the inner harbor and partly occupied by the Pavilion Hotel, of which 
Lady E. S. Wortley said, " It is very much like being afloat in a line-of- 
battle ship, we are so close to the grand old Atlantic." 

Beacon Pole Hill, close to the city on the Anniscpiam road, commands 
an extensive and interesting prospect of Gloucester, the bare, bleak hills 
of the cape, and the waters and shores to the N. and S. Beyond the hill 
is the hamlet of Riverdale, which has a cliurch of the 17tli century. 

John Murray, the "Apostle ofUniversalism," planted that seot in America in 
1770, and preached for several }^ears in this church. Jn the old Uiuverpalist Church 
is a curious origan, which was captured duriug the Revolution by a privateer. It is 
lit. high, and is played by turning a civmk, its capacity being .3(1 tunes. In the 
First Parish Church (founded 1642) is a British caunou ball, tired iuto the town in 
1775. 

The pleasantest excursion about Gloucester is to Norman's Woe and 
Rafe's Chasm. About 2 M. from the city, a small road turns off to the 
L from the Manchester road, and soon, losing all evidences of carriage- 
travel, runs into a sequestered patli in the borders of the forest and by 
the edge of the sea. The dark and frowning mass of rocks soon seen, 
surrounded by the sea, is Norman's Woe, the scene of Longfellow's poem, 
*' The Wreck of the Hesperus." 

" It was the schooner Hesperus 
That sailed the wintry sea. 

«' And fast through the midnipht dark and drear, 
Throueh the wliistling slcit and snow, 
Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept 
Tow'rds the reef of Norman's Woe." 



ROCKPORT. Route 36. 247 

Following the precipitous, rocky shore about 1 M, S. W. of the reef, 
one conies to * Rate's Cliasm, a remarkaljle fissure in the great cliff which 
fronts the sea. It is 6 ft. wide, 40-50 ft. deep, and 100 ft. long, and tlie 
roar of the wr.ves is appalling wlien tliey sweep tlirough it after a storm. 
Some distance beyond, on the same shore, is anotlier curious cleft in the 
trap-rock. I'he ramble may be extended to Goldsmitli's Point and 
its summer villas, with Kettle Island and Great Egg Rock off shore, and 
the elegant * Crescent- Beach Hmise. A little to the N. (and near the 
IMagnolia fiag-station on the railroad) is a swamp containing the rare and 
beautiful magnolia-trees, whose flowers are out in July, 

" Aromxl the Cape " is a favorite excursion from Gloucester, and the 
distance is 12-14 M. From Gloucester to Rockport by higliway or rail- 
road, is about 4 M. By diverging to the r. from the main road a shore- 
road (inferior) is gained, which leads to Rockport by Whale and Loblolly 
Coves, passing near Thacher's and Straitsmouth Islands, -with their tall 
lighthouses. Thacher's Island has two powerful Fresnel lights, in 
granite towers, 112 ft. high and ^ M. apart. Tliere is a tradition that a 
rel)el cniiser hit one of tliese lanterns with a cannon-shot during a dark 
night of the Secession War. 

Kockport {Sheridan House) is a well-named to^vn of about 4,000 
inhabitants, with 6 cliurches and 2 banks. From costly artificial harbors 
along this rock-bound coast, great quantities of granite are shipped to all 
] arts of the Union. 2 M. N. of this village is the summer-resort of Pigeon 
Cove (stages from Rockport station), with the Pigeon Cove, Ocean View, 
and Linwood Hotels (GO -75 guests each; .^12-15 a week). This was 
formerly a favorite resort of the great divines of the liberal sects,— Chapin, 
Starr King, Bartol, and others,— and has grown rapidly in popularity. The 
rocky shores furnish an endless variety of scenery, and the surf, after 
stormy Aveather, is grand in its power. Phillips Avenue and other streets 
have been graded on the heights by Pigeon Cove, and a large village of 
simimer residences (called Ocean View) has been built here. 

From Ocean Viev/, the road runs to Folly Cove, and near Folly Point, 
the N. limit of the Cape, to Lanesvillc, looking across tlie northern waters 
to the shores of Essex North, New Hampshire, and lower ]\Iaine. Tliere 
are boarding-houses here, and a little way beyond is Bay View, Avlieie 
are large wharves, and a steam railroad running back into quarries which 
yield a favorite light-colored granite. On a sightly hill over tlie port is 
the elegant seaside cottage (of red and gray granite) pertaining to tlie 
Hon. B. F. Bntler. Beyond is the hamlet of Annisquam, at the mouth 
of the Squam River, with summer boarding-honses and a gron]) of \ ilhis 
called Cambi'idge Avenue, and owned l)y Camln-idge people. It is abdut 
4 M. to Gloucester, by Riverdale and the hill known as tlie Poles, and np 
t!ie Squam River. The ancient canal from Squam to the harbor lias been 
reopened. The Grand-View and Dudley Houses are at Aniiisriuam. 



248 Route 36. CAPE ANN. 

Cape Ann was formerly inhaTuted by a small tribe of Indians, who called it "Win- 
gaersheek. It was rounded by Capt. Smith in Uil4, who named it Cape Traga- 
bigzanda in memory of a Turkish jirincess who had befriended him while he was 
wounded and a prisoner in Constantinople (1601). Prince Charles of England 
overruled Smith, and named the cape in honor of Ids royal mother. In 1025 the 
forest-covered promontory was settled by a colony under Roger Conant, who 
founded here tlie first Puritan church. Abandoned by Conant in favor o:' Salem, 
it was soon re-peopled by another swarm from the English hive, and incorporated 
in 1642 under the name of Gloucester, since most of its settlers came from the 
English town of that name. The colonists soon exterminated the " lyons " and 
drove off the Indians. 1692 was "a year memorable in the annals of mystei7," 
and hundreds of French and Indian ghosts were thought to liaunt the cape, and 
were often shot at but never hurt. So great was the" panic that two regiments 
from the mainland occupied the cape. With the decline of the witchcraft delusion 
in Salem the suijerstitious mariners of Gloucester lost sight of their mysterious 
enonies, and the guards were withdrawn. In 1716 the first terrible marine dis- 
aster occurred, when 5 large fishing- vessels from this port were lost off the Banks 
with all on board. In 1774 Edmund Burke, siieaking of the Massachusetts fisher- 
men, said, " No sea but what is vexed by their fisheries, no climate that is not 
witness of their toils ; neither the perseverance of Holland, nor the acti^^ty of 
France, nor the dexterous and firm sagacity of Eiiglish enterprise, ever carried 
their most perilous mode of hardy industry to the extent to which it has been 
luirsued by this recent people, — a people who are yet in the gristle, and not yet 
hardened into manhood." In 1775 Cape Ann sent 300 men to the American army 
besieging Boston, and in August of that year Gloucester was bombarded for 4 
hours by the British sloop-of-war " Falcon." The minute-men held the town, and 
captured 4 boats, a tender, and a prize schooner with 40 men from the " Falcon." 
The ruined town was soon rex>aired, and with the close of the war, the cessation 
of iirivateering, and the reduction of the national navy, the fishing-fleets were once 
more manned and sent out. Gloucester had included the whole cape until 1840, 
when Rockport became an imlependent town. The canal from the harl)or to 
Squam River (first cut in 1643) was long ago abandoned as useless. In 1S73 
Gloucester received a city charter. 

William W^inter, the poet, E. P. Whipple, the essayist, and Samuel Gilman, the 
Unitarian divine, were born here ; also, Capt. Haraden, who, with the "Picker- 
ing," swept the Bay of Biscay and the North Atlantic, and took 1,000 camion from 
the British on the sea, between 1775 and 17S3. Epes Sargent, the author : Henry 
Sargent, the painter ; and other notables of the same family, came from Glouces- 
ter. 

The fisheries around Newfoundland have caused trouble ever since 15S5, wTicn 
Queen Elizabeth sent a fleet which swooped down on a swarm of Norman fishing- 
vessels on the Banks, and ca]itured half of them. But the deep-sea and George's 
Bank fisheries are the noble pursuits of this maritime people, who man their fleets 
with 5,000 men, and lose on an average, 17 vessels and 113 men each year. In 
the winter of 1862, 13 vessels and 130 men from this port were lost in one night 
on George's Bank. 

" Wik! are the waves which lash the reefs alonsr St. (Icorpe's Bank, 
Cold on the shore of Labiartor the fosr lies white and dank ; 
Throuph storm and wave and blinding mist, stout are the hearts which man 
The fishing-smacks of Marbleheacl, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. 

*' The cold North lisht and wintry sun glare on their icy forms 
Bent grimly oer their straining ^lines, or wrestling with the storms ; 
Free as tlie winds they drive before, rough as tlie waves they roam, 
They laugh to scorn tlie slavers threat ivgaiust their rocky home " 

(JouN G. Whittier.) 



37. Boston to Portland and St. John. 

This is the most interesting and easy of the routes to Maine and the Maritime 
rio\inces. No change of cars is necessary between Boston and Bang'U', since 
tlie Eastern Railroad cars pass on to the rails of the Maine Central Railway at 
Portland and are carried through to Bangor. At the latter city the traveller gets 



EVERETT. novic 37. 249 

on tlie trnin of the Enrnpe.in anil North Ainerio.'in R;iil\vay, which passes through 
to 8t. Joiiu. Boston to Salem, IG M. ; to NeM'buryport, 'M M. ; to Port:imouth, 
56 M. : to Portland, 108 M. ; to Augusta, 171 M. ; to Bangor, 24G M. ; to St. John, 
44.'> M. ; to Halifax, 63G M. 

The rich and elegant cars of the Pullman Company are attached to every 
through train. This company has over 500 cars (costing -S IS- 22,090 each) running 
on 90 railroads. They are used througliout the United States, also between Bom- 
bay and Calcutta (1,800 M.), and are about to be introduced on the through route 
from Parii to Vienna. Tlie cliief advantage possessed by this line is that it runs 
thrDugh the large sea-cities of Massachusetts, with frequent views of the ocean 
and the northern bays. Numerous ]ioimlar seaside resorts are near its track, 
Avhile 9 connectiuij; lines run landward from it. Fares, to Portland, §3.00 ; to 
Bangor, SG.OO ; to St. John, $10.00 ; to Halifax", $14.00. 

The line nearly coincides v/ith the route of the " Portsniouth Flying Coach 
Co.," established in 17G2, to make weekly trips by way of the Newburyport road. 
The fare was 13s. M. to Portsmouth and 9s. to Newbury. President Dwight 
(of Yale) rode over this route in 179G, and wrote, "No part of the United States 
iurnislies a tour eipially pleasing. Nowhere is there in the same compass such a 
num'.ier of towns ecjually interesting, large, wealthy, and beautiful, or equally 
iiilialnted by intelligent, p(^lished, and resitectable people." 

Two tlirougji express trains run daily each way between Boston and Bangor, 
240 M., in 11 hours. 

Tjie train leaves the terminal station on Causeway St., at the foot of 
Frieiid St., and runs out over Charles River on a long trestle. On 

the 1. is the track of the Boston and Lov^^ell E. E,., and on the r. va'q the 
File] 1 burg and the Boston and Maine tracks. The height.'-: of Charlcstown, 
crowned by Bunker Hill Monument, rise on the r., and the manufactories 
of E. Cambridge are seen on the 1. OtT Prison Point ((!'harlestovvn) the 
Fitcliburg Pt. R. is crossed, with the State Prison close at hand, and tlie 
McLean Asylum for the Insane on tlie 1. This Asylum was opened in 
1818, and has extensive buildings which cost over $200,000, sitrrounded 
by pleasant grounds. It Avas named for a philanthropic Boston merchant, 
who gave ,$150,000 for this object and to Harvard University. After 
running for nearly a mile over the waters of diaries River and Miller's 
Creek, the line gains the Somerville meadows, and crosses the Boston and 
Maine track just before reaching Somerville station. Soon after leaving 
this station, Mt. Benedict and the site of the Ursuline Convent (de- 
stroyed by a mob in 1834) are passed on the 1. and the train crosses the 
Mystic River, — with Charlestown and E. Boston on the r. 

Station, Everett, whence the Saugus Branch diverges to tlie N., and 
passes through the suburban villages of Maiden, Maplewood, Linden, 
Cliftondale, Saugus, E. Saugus, and hyan Common. Near the latter vil- 
lage it rejoins the main line. The town of Everett was incorporated in 
1870, with a population of 2,222 and a valuation of .$2,000,000. From 
this point the track nins S. of E. to Chdsea station. From Boston to 
Clielsea the road describes a semicircle with the centre of the curve in- 
clined to the N. W. The road formerly terminated at E. Boston, but a 
depot was built in tlie city, and a circuitous course was necessary in order 
to avoid the deep outer channels of the Charles and Mystic Rivers. 
Chelsea and Revere Boacli are described in Route 2. The line soon crosses 
11* 



250 Route 37. LYNN. 

Chelsea Creek and Sangiis River, Avitli the hotels on Chclr.cix (or r.evcrc) 
Beach, on tlie r., skirts Lyuu Harbor, passes W. Lyuii, and stops at 

Lynn. 

Hotels. —The Roscobd ; Kirtland. On the beach, llefl-Rock Hnupe (912-18 
a week), and Oc(sin Cottat^e. Horst-cars to Boston, S\va.nipscott, Wyouia, and 
Peabody. Stiujcs to Nabant. 

Lynn is a busy city of 40,000 inhabitants, situated near the N. end of 
Mass. Bay, on a harbor formed by the peninsula of Nahant. The greater 
part of tlie city is on a plain near the sea, while a chain of porphyritic 
hills on the N. is adorned with many neat villas. Market St. is the main 
thoroughfare, and is lined with large commercial buildings, mostly of 
brick, although by far the greater part of tlie city is constructed of woo<l. 
Skilled American labor- is employed here to a larger extent than in the 
other manufacturing cities of New England (where foreign workmen are 
numerous), and its interests are protected and sometimes over-asserted by 
a powerful organization called the Knights of St. Crispin. 

The city was founded in 1629, and named for LjTin Regis, in England, the home 
of its lirst pastor (1636-79). In ISIO, it was the 7th town of Essex County ; in 
1820, the 5th ; in 1830, the 4th ; in 1840, the 2d, which rank it still maintains 
(Lawrence being the largest city in the county). About 1750, tlie nianulac.turc of 
ladies' shoes was commenced here by a "Welcliman named Dagyr, and it has since 
grown to vast lu-oportions, Lynn now being the first city in the world in this 
branch of industry. 

In 1767, I^ynn mnde 80,000 pairs of slioes ; in ISIO, l.Oon '^0'^ |,-nrs ; in 1?^ '". 
5,.3'10,00n pairs ; and in 1880, over 12,000,000 pairs, valued at S 21,000,000. In 1S80, 
there were employed 7,297 men and 3,389 women, in this work. 

The * Soldiers' Monument is an imposing memorial (to 289 dead, out 
of 3,270 men sent to the war), with bronze statuary and tablets, near tlie 
City Hall. The Public Library contains 32,000 volumes; and the city has 
6 neAvspapers and 26 churclies. 

The *City Hall, one of the linest municipal buildings in New England, 
is i M. W. of the station, substantially built of brick and brownstone, with 
a tower. It fronts on a long and narrow Couimou, near which is the luag- 
nificent St. Stephen's Memorial Church (Ei)isc()pal), of red-gneiss rubl>le, 
with a very ricli interior. High Rock is N. of the City Hall, and commands 
a wide view of the city and the surrounding waters. Here was the home 
of Moll Pitcher, a reputed sorceress, and here also, in later years, have 
resided the Hutchinson family of singers. Pine Grove Cemetery is a 
beautiful rural burying-gromul on the hills toward the " Lakes of Lynn." 

Dungeon Rock is 3 - 4 M. from the city. Here, on one of the highest 
of a series of picturesque, forest-covered hills, it is said that certain pirates 
had their den and treasure-house, until an earthcpiake swallowed them 
up (in the 17th century). In 1852 a person came to this hill and began to 
dig for treasures imdcr the inspiration of spiritualism and the guidance 
of clairvoyants. He Avorked here until his death in 1SG8, meanwhile 
cutting a passage into the iron-like ptirphyry rock, 135 IL. long, 7 ft. wide. 



SWAMPSCOTT. Route ^y. 251 

mvl 7 ft. liigh. Near this point is the Sangus River, where a forge and 
snieltiiig-works for working iron were erected in 1643. 

Tlie pleasantest part of Lynn is the Adcinity of Nahant St. and Saga- 
more Hill, where tliere are many fine villas belonging to Boston mer- 
chants. The bank building and the new Universalist Church are in this 
quarter, and are worthy of notice. Lynn Beach and Nahant (see page 21) 
are gained by way of Nahant St., while by following the shore toward 
the N. (a foot-patli only) a line of elegant seaside villas is passed, and 
Swampscott is readied. 

Soon after leaving Lynn, the train reaches Swampscott (Great Anawan 
House; Little Anawan House ; Ocean House ; Lincoln House), a fashion- 
able watering-place, which, like Nahant, is much affected by the aristocracy 
of Boston. Their elegant carriages and trim yachts are easily brought 
here (13 M. from Boston), and nudce land and water lively through the 
summer months. Numerous boarding-houses, small hotels, and cottages 
receive their quotas of the guests. The beaches are short and limited, 
but afford safe bathing, while the greater part of the shore consists of 
high bluffs and ragged ledges. Phillijis' Beach, about 3 M. E. of the 
station, faces the open sea, and is nearly insulated by Phillips' Pond. A 
large cluster of cottages is built on the prominent point over Dread 
Ledge, from which the shore trends W., and pretty views of Nahant Bay, 
the peninsula of Nahant, and the islanded Egg Rock, may be gained. 
The yachts and village fishing-smacks are usually anchored off Fisher- 
man's Village and along the S. shore. (See also page 407.) Beyond 
Swampscott the train reaches 

Salem. 

Hotels. — Essex Uouse, 170 Essex St., S2.25 a day. 

Horse-cars from Essex and AVashington Sts. to Peahody and Beverly, the 
Willows, N. and S. Salem, and Dauvers. Y. M. C. A., 191 Essex St. 

Salem, the mother-city of the Massachusetts colony, and a shire-towoi 
of Essex County, is favorably situated on a long peninsula between tAvo 
inlets of the sea. It has 28,000 inhalntants, and while slowly gaining in 
wealth, it is losing its place among the cities of the State and County, by 
their more rapid increase. The marine aristocracy of the old East India 
merchants and captains still holds lines of stately old-time mansions, and 
tlie stillness and grave propriety of the city is generally noticed by the 
visitor. The wharves are now occupied by the few coasting-vessels which 
have taken the place of the great East Indiamen which formerly entered 
here. Boston has taken this trade away, and the city is now supported 
by its lately developed steam-mills and factories. There is a safe and 
commodious harbor before the city, which is defended by Forts Pickering 
and Lee, and good boating is found there. The State Normal School is 
situated on Broad St., and has IGO girls in attendance. Instruction of a 



252 Route 37. SALEM. 

high order is given here without cost, on condition that each stndent shall 
teach (for a specified time) in the schools of the Commonwealth. The 
churches of the city are not remarkable for their architecture, although 3 
of them are of stone. Tliere are 4 Unitarian churches, and 13 others. 

The East-India Marine Hall, on Essex St., was erected by the East- 
India Marine Society, 1824. It was purchased and refitted by the trustees 
of the Peabody Academy of Science, Avith funds given by George Peabody, 
of London, 1867; and contains the Museum of the East-India Marine So- 
ciety (commenced 1799), and the Natural-History Collection of the Essex 
Institute, received as permnnont deposits, and hiter accessions. 

Here is a coUection illustrating the orders of the animal kingdom, ar- 
ranged in their proper seciuenee from the lowe^t form to the highest The 
most striking features are the corals, reptiles, birds, and the Australian mar- 
suitials. On the E. side are the ethnological collections, which rank among 
the very highest in America, and are especially rich in South-Sea-Island 
imjdements, cloths, models, idols, domestic utensils, etc.: and Chinese, 
Japanese, and East-Indian life-sized models of native characters, l)esides 
the boats, clothing, utensils, implements of war and of domestic use from 
these countries, and from Africa, Arabia, and North and South America. 
The collection from .Japan is the finest on exhibition in the country. Li 
one part of the hall is a complete assortment of gods, Hindoo, Chinese, 
and Polynesian. The models of naval architecture are very numerous, 
and mark the progress from the rude Esquimau canoe to the nmdel of the 
stately and heavily armed Salem East Indiaman, the " Eriendship." The 
gallery is devoted to the Natural Historv and Arclueolog}' of Essex County. 
Nearly ever}'' s])ecies of the flora and fauna is represented, the collections 
of birds and native woods being especially fine. The Acadeni}- has also 
the best local collection of prehistoric implements and utensils of stone, 
bone, and clay to be found in Essex County. The Museum is open, free 
to the public, every Aveek-day from 9 to 12 and from 1 to 5 o'clock. The 
average numl)er of visitors for fifteen vears is upwards of 35,000 annuallv. 

The stately Plummer Hall (open 8..30-1, and 2.30-5), at 134 
Essex St., was erected by Jliss Phnnmer's becpaest, on the site of Gov. 
Bradstreet's mansion, and Wm. H. Prescolt's birthplace. The lower 
floor has a rich museum, Avith several Copley and Smibert portraits. 
Above is an elegant hall with white Corinthian columns at the sides, 
and some old portraits, the chief of Avhich is a large, full-length paint- 
ing of Sir William Pepjierell in his favorite red costume. Oliver Croin- 
Avell, Secretary Pickering, Governors Leverett, Bradslreet, and Endicott, 
several early'divines and ladies of the colonial era, are represented 
in these old portraits. There are three libraries (Athenannn. Essex Li- 
stitute. and S. Essex Medical Society) in the building, Avith an aggregate 
of 50,000 A'olinnes, the larger part of Avhich are in the hall. The original 
charter of Massachusetts Bay, given by King C'harles I. in 1(528, is j)re- 
served here, together Avith s'undry other quaint old documents of State. 
Over the main stairway is a graphic painting representing a scene in the 
witchcraft days. Behiiui I'lummer Hall, and reached by passing around 
the building, is the oldest church edilice m the Northern States. It Avas 
built in 1G34 for the First Church, of Avhich Koger AVilliams Avas ])astor, 
and Avas used for 38 years. In 1072 a new church Avas built, and this 
edifice Avas aliandoned. It is about half as large as an ordinary jiarlor, and 
has a gallery, a high-pointed roof, diamond-paned Avindows, Hawthorne's 
and Bowditch's desks, spiuning-AvhecLs, .vpiimet, liarpsichord, etc. 



SALEM. Route 3'r. 253 

The Roger- Will inms ffonse is at 310 Essex St. (with a one-story shop 
in front). It was built in IGoi, and some of the alleged witches had 
their preliminary trials here. Gallows 11111 is I M. W. of the city, 
and commands a broad view over the harbor and surrounding country. 
llvre 19 persons were put to death during the witchcraft delusion. In 
Jlmmony-Grove Cemeteri/, W. of Salpm, George Peabody is buried; 
while in the village of Peabody (2 INf. distant; horse-cars from Salem) is 
sluiwn the house where he was born. The library (oO,OUO vols.) and col- 
lections of the Pcabudy Institute are worthy of a visit (open Wednesday 
and Saturday). The most notable object is the * portrait of Queen Victoria, 
given by her to Gi orge Peabody. It is 14 by 10 inches in size, painted on 
gold, and adorned witii rich jewels. It cost S oO,000. See also line por- 
trait of George Peabody. 

Dttbi) Wharf, on the S. of the city, was formerly the focal point of the 
E. India trade; and at its head stands the old Custom /Ljuse where Ilaw- 
tliorne was employed (his birthplace was at No. 21 Union St.). The Court 
IIous, and the CUy Hall are granite buildings near the tunnel. In the E. 
is the broad Washington S(]uare, near the brownstone East Church (Uni- 
tarian) and St. Peter's Episcopal Church. 

The Willows, 
reached hy horse-cars in I hr., is a rocky point, viewing the North Shore 
and Bay, and provided with pavilions, gardens, restaurants, a skating- 
rink, music, boats, etc., frequented by the Salem people. Steamboats 
hence to Lowell Island and P>everlv, several times daily. Juniper Point 
{Ocian-View ; Juniper; Atlantic; C'enfro/) is a cottage-colony on Winter 
Island. Forts Pickering and Lee (now in ruins), and a light-house stand 
on the lonely Saltm Neck, Hawthorne's favorite haunt. 

Drives to Swampscott, 4 M. ; Nahant, 6 ; Marblehead Neck, 4; Marble- 
head, 'S^\ Beverly Farms, 4; Peabody, 2; Danversj Wenham Lake, 6; 
Floating Bridge, 5; Asbury Grove, 8; Chebacco Lakes, 8. 

In 1626 Roger Conant left the fishing colony on Cape Ann, and built the first 
lK>use on the Indian domain of Nauinkeag.* In 1627 the Plymouth Company 
granted to certain " kniglits and gentlemen of Dorchester, and their heirs, assigns, 
and associates forever, all that part of New England which lies between a great 
river called Merrimac, and a certain other river called Charles." John Endicott 
was sent over in 1628, and founded at Naumkeag tlie capital of this district. The 
colony was "called Salem from the peace which tliey had and lioped in it." In 
1628 the First Church was formed, and in 1631 Philip Ratcliife was scourged, had 
his ears cut oif, and suffered banishment and confiscation of liis property, "for 
blasphemy against the church of 8alem, the mother-church of all this Holy Land." 
The militant disposition of the colonists was shown by the fact that during the 
first few years they imported £ 18,000 worth of furniture, building materials, &c., 
while £ 22,000 wortli of arms and artillery was brought in during the same time. 
In 1629 there were 10 houses here, besides the governor's house, which was gar- 
nished with great ordnance, "and thus wee doubt not that God will be with us, 
and if God be with us, who can be against us." In midsummer, 1630, Gov. John 

*Nn\imkeatr is said 'o be nn Indian word meaning " Eel land," but Cotton Mather fwho 
is nothin;-' if not Oriental) holds to its d rivation foin the Hebrew words, Nahum (comfort) 
iind K iilv Ivivon . 



254 Routes?. SALEM. 

Winthrop arrived at SaloTn with 10 ships and a large number of colonists. Thf 
lovely Ladv Arabt'lla Johnson, the daughter of the Earl of Lincoln, and the wife 
of Isaac Johnson, the wealthiest of the colonists, was the pride of the settlement, 
and the flag-sliip of the fleet was named for her. Before leaving England she in- 
sisted on accompanying her husband, — " AVhithersoever your fatall destine shall 
dryve you, eyther by the furious waves of the great ocean, or by the many-folde 
and hoVrible dangers of tlie lande, I wyl surely not leave your company. There 
can no peryll chaunee to nie so terrible, nor any kinde of death so cruell, that 
shall not be nuich easie$ for me to abyde than to live so farre separate from you." 
"Witliin ;j months after the landing, this brave patrician lady died at iSalem (and 
was buried near Bridge St.). Her husband survived lier but a month. 

Winthroi> and Jolinson moved S. to Charlesiown, and thence to Boston, which 
soon became tlie chief town and capital of the colony (see page 7). Endicott, Pea- 
body, and others remained at Salem, and built mansions near Noi'th River, and 
the former led the 1st Mass. Regiment (organized in Essex County, in 1636) in a 
bloodless and successful campaign against the turbident Anglican colony at Merry 
Mount (Braintree). In 1661 the Quakers were persecuted at Salem, and in 1677 
the Indians on the coast of Maine seized 20 vessels, mostly from this town, while 
4 vessels escajied by battle and returned to the port, bearing 19 wounded men and 
several dead. The witchcraft delusion arose in 1692 in the family of Samuel Parris, 
pastor of the adjacent village of Danvers. His daughter and his niece accused 
Tituba, a slave of the household, of bewitching them, and Parris whipped her 
until she confessed it. Tituba's husband, under the influence of fear, charged 
certain other persons of the same crime, and Parris proclaimed that "the Devil 
hath been raized among us, and his rage is vehement and terrible, and when he 
shall be silenced the Lord only knows." The jail of Salem was crowded with 
Essex County people wht) had been denounced for diabolical connnunications. 19 
persons were hung on Gallows Hill, and Giles Cory was pressed to death. Cotton 
Mather was a leader in these persecutions, which lasted for 16 months, until the 
government became aware of its error, and released the scores of prisoners from 
the jail. In partial extenuation of this sti'ange delusion, it may be said that Lord 
Chief Justice Hale, Lord Bacon, Sir William Blackstone, Addison, Johnson, and 
other distinguished scholars believed in the reality of witchcraft and the pro- 
priety of its punishment by death. Quarter of the population of Salem left the 
town in panic, and after aU was over, Parris acknowledged his error, and was 
dismissed by his church. 

In 1774 Gov. Gage ordered the removal of the legislature from the closed port 
of Boston to Salem. In 1776 a British regiment huided here, designing to destroy 
some military stores in N. Salem, but they failed to do it. Four Essex County 
regiments were enrolled in the Continental army, while the fishermen of Salem 
armed their craft and became privateersmen, by whom 445 British vessels were 
taken during the Revolution. After the war, E. H. Derby built a fleet of fine 
ships, and opened the East India trade, which by 181S engaged 53 Salem ships ; 
and from this era most of the aristocracy of the city dates its origin. 

Salem has given to the State, Senator Cabot, and Timothy Pickering, a Con- 
tinental otficer, who became successivelv U. S. Postmaster-General (1791-5), 
Secretary of War, and Secretary of State (1795 - 1800). He was also a U. S. Sena- 
tor, 1803-11. Gov. Bradstreet, "the Nestor of New England," and Gov. Endi- 
cott, spent much of their lives in Salem. Gen. Israel Putnam, of the Continental 
Army ; Gen. F. W. Lander, mortally wounded after leading in some brilliant 
actions of the War for the Union (1862) ; antl F. T. Ward, commander of the 
armies of China until he was killed in the battle of Ningpo in 1862, were all 
natives of Salem. Also were born here, John Rogers, the sculptor ; N. Bowditch, 
the mathematician, astronomer, and author of "The Practical Navigator"; N. 
I. Bowditch, the antiquarian ; J. Prince and N. Adams, clergymen ; Benjamin 
Pierce, the mathematician ; the eminent nu^-cliants, Derby, Crowninshield, Phil- 
lips, and Gray ; Maria S. Cummins, the novelist ; John Pickering, the philologist ; 
J. B. Felt, the annalist; and W. H. Prescott, born 1796, the author of histories 
of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Con(iuest of Mexico, the Conquest of Peru, and 
Philip II. of Spain, amounting to 11 octavo volumes, and translated into 5 Euro- 
pean languages. Nathaniel Hawthorne, one of the sweetest and purest of Ameri- 
can prose-writers, was born at Salem in 1804. After graduating from Bowdoin 
College (1825), he settled in Salem, and horn 1838 to 1841 was in the Boston Cus- 
tom House. In 1841 he joined the Brook l''arm Comnmnity, and from 1843 lo 



MARBLEIIEAD. Route 37. 255 

1S46 he lived at Conrnrd. 1846-50 he was surveyor of the port of Salem, and 
1S53- 57 he held the U. S. Consulate at Liver])Ool. He died at Plymouth, N. H., 
May 19, IS'Ji. The most important of his works of romance and miscellanies are, 
" Tlie .Scarlet Letter," — a weird and pitwerful romance of the early colonial days 
of Massachusetts, — and "The Marble Faun," whose scene is laid in Rome, Peru- 
gia, and the A])penines. 

Four hraneli railroads run out from Salem. 

A line crosses the towns of Peabody and Lynnfield, to Wakefield on the Boston 
and Maine R. R. 4 trains daily pass into Boston by this route, and over the rails 
of the last-named company. 

'I'he Sah'm and Lowell ll. R. (pertaining to the Boston and Lowell R. R.) runs 
from the station near Salem Court House, to Lowell (24 M.). Fare, 80 c. ; 3 trains 
daily each way. This line crosses Peabody to Ipswieli River, which it follows for 
C-7 M., and then jjasses through tlic towns of N. Reading, AVihnington, and 
Tewksbury, to Lowell. 

Tlie Lawrence liranch of the Eastern R. R. runs 3 trains daUy each way be- 
tween Salem and Lawrence, through the towns of Dan vers, Middleton, and N. 
Andover. 

Another branch runs to Marblehead (4 M.), passing the Forest River Lead 
"Works. 

Marblehead is louilt on a peninsula 

of 3,700 acres, very rocky and uneven. It was incorporated in 1G35, and 
a clironicler of that time calls it " Marmaracria, opiiiduni maritimuni, 
saxis abnndans." Wliitefield gazed in astoni.shnient upon its rocky hills 
and said, " Pray, where do they bury their dead ? " Tlie town has about 
8,000 inhabitants, and is situate<l on the side of a narrow, deeji harbor. 
It was formerly engaged in tlie fi.sheries, but has latterly turned its atten- 
tion to the shoe-manufactory. A full regiment marched from this town 
to the Continental Army ; the crew of the Constitution frigate was mostly 
enlisted here ; and it is said that the town sent more men (in proportion 
to its population) to the Secession War than any other place in the 
Union. There are many quaint old colonial houses here, especially the 
bank building, which was raised in 1 768 for an aristocratic mansion, and is 
but little altered. One of the churches was built in 1714, and is still 
nsed for services. 

In June, 1813, there occuiTed a desperate naval battle off this coast, between the 
American frigate " Chesapeake " and tlie British frigate " Shannon." The vessels 
were of about equal size, and tlie "Chesajieake" had sailed from Boston (with a 
picked-up crew) in answer to a challenge from the " Shannon." The latter vessel 
was splendidly handled, and after a few close broadsides, she ran alongside the 
"Chesapeake " and carried her by boarding, after a sharp resistance on the decks. 
The American Capt. , Lawrence, was mortally Avounded and carried below, his 
last words being, "Don't give up the shii)." The English Capt., Broke, was so 
badly woiuided tliat he retired from the service, after carrying the " Chesapeake" 
into Halifax in triumph, and being knighted for his gallant achievement. 

Elbiidge Gerry was bom at Marblehead in 1744. He was a Congressman, 
1776-85, and 1789-03, and signed the Declaration of Independence, but refused 
to sign the U. S. Constitution (1787). In 1812 he was elected Vice-President of 
the U. S. 

At this town is laid the scene of Whittier's poem, "Skipper Ireson's Ride." 
Many years ago Capt. Ireson refused to take off some of his townsmen from a 
drifting wreck, because of the expense of feeding them all the way home. On 
his return the citizens tarred and feathered him, and rode him, in one of his own 
boats, to Salem and liack, he remaining silent and unresisting. Whence the re- 
frain. 



25 G Roide 37. BEVERLY. 

" Old Floyd Ireson. for his hnrd heart, 
Tam-d and feathered ami carried in a cart 
By tlic women of Marhlehead." 

In 1775 this toAvn was only second to Boston in population. The 14th Mass. 
Continental Reg., raised here and in Salem, was one of the elite corps of the 
army, and was called "the amphibious." It ferried the army across the East 
River by night after the defeat on Long Island, led the van in crossing the Dela- 
ware to the battle of Trenton, and escorted Burgojnie's c;iptive army through 
New England. The Marblehcad privateers did great service ; one of them took a 
British sliip off Boston, laden with l,50u tons of powder and other stores. The 
"St. Helena," 10, while convoying a fleet to Havana, was attacked at night by 
the British brig, "Lively." At dawn, after a long hglit, F.he loinid Iserself under 
tlie guns of the line-of-battle-ship "Jujnter." The captive Marbleheaders were 
put on board the " Lively," and 12 days later theyro.se and took her, and run into 
Havana. The Embargo (1810) rained the maritime business of Marblehead, and 
at the close of tlie War of 1812, 500 of her sailors were in British prisons. 

Marbleliead Neck is across the harbor (2 M. by road,) and is nsnally dotted 
W'th white tents during the summer. Tinker's Island (seen to the S.)is noted for 
its cunner-fishing. Massachusetts Bay was stocked with cunners by some Bos- 
ton gentlemen, aii'l the delicious lish have iiropagated rajjidly. 

IjOAvell Island is a small island 5 M. from Salem, which is occupied by a 
hotel accbmmndating 800 guests. The island covers but 25 rocky acres, and has 
goiid sea-air, witli views of Ca]>e Ann, Beverly, the Satan Rocks, and Marblehead 
with its trim little fort. A steamer runs out several times daily from Marblehead 
(2 M.). 

After leaving Salem the main line passes through a tunnel 600 ft. long, 

and crosses North River on a long Ijridge, between which and the highway 

hridgc, a few rods down the stream, a fleet of yachts is moored for 8 

niontlis of the year. Station, Brverh/. an ancient village which was 

.settled in 1630, Imt is now- chiefly known for its extensive shoe-factories, 

wliicli are concentrated about the public square near the station. Lathrop 

St. (named after Capt. Lathrop, a native of Beverly, who fell at the head 

of "the Flower of Essex," in battle near Deerfield, in 1675) affords a tine 

marine promenade, with an extensive viev/ over the bay, and its forts and 

islands. The town has 7,263 inhabitants and ten churches. 

Nathan Dane, who resided here from 1775 to 1S35, was an eminent jurist. In 
178r he introduced and fought through Congres.s a bill excluding slavery forever 
fi'om the vast domain N. "W. of the Ohio River. Robert Rantoul, Jr., a p()\verful 
and popular politician, of remarliable jmrity of life and prineiides, was born here 
in 1805. He filled the unexpired term of Senator Yv'ebster in 1851. Dr. A. P. 
Peubody, the eminent Unitarian divine, was also a native of Beverly. 

Station, Wenham and Hamilton. Wenham was settled about 1636, 
and its foundation was celebrated by Rev. Hugh Peters, who preached on 
the borders of its lake, from the text, " AtEnon, near to Salem, becau.se 
there was mucli water there." The town was called Enon for many }'ears. 
An English tourist of 1686 wrote, "Wenham is a delicious paradise; it 
abounds with rural pleasures, and I would choose it above all other towns 
in America to dwell in." Wenham Lake has a world-wide reputation for 
its ice, which is sliipped to the remotest ports. The ice is kept free from 
snow, and is cut when a foot thick, an acre producing about 1,000 tons, 
which is stored in great buildings near the shore. These ice-houses (seen 
to the 1. from the track) liave double walls of wood, filled i:i with saw- 



IPSWICH. Route 37. 257 

dust, and preserve the ice through the heats of summer. Side-tracks run 
to the ice-houses by which it is carried throughout tliis part of the 
couutrj^, or to the ships at Boston. Salem gets its water-supply from 
tills lake (the lai-ge reservoir is seen on a hill to the S. E. ), and the water 
must be good according to one writer's d priori reasonmg, — "of the soft- 
ness and purity of the waters of Essex County there can be no doubt, 
for its ladies are noted for their bloom and beauty." Gail Hamilton (Miss 
Mary A. Dodge) resides in the town of Hamilton (named after Alexander 
Hamilton), a quiet farming village about 1^ Isl. N. E. of the station. A 
side-track leads here to the 1. to a large and favorite Metliodist camp- 
ground, where many thousands congregate in the month of August. 11 is 
1 M. from the station, and its groves are tilled with small cottages. 60 
acres of land are included in this Asbbry Camp-ground.) 

A branch line runs from Wenliani to Essex, a quaint old marine village, ftmious 
fo7- shii)-lmil(lincr, and noar ncean-viewinp- hills. It was the liirthplace of Rnfiis 
Clii>atf% a brilliant orator, lawyer, and U. S. Senator. The jtictnresque Clie- 
bacco P«»iids are 1 M from U'n(xJh}iry'K-Crossing station, amon,^ forest-covered 
lulLs, and are a favorite local suminer-resort ; having a large hotel and boats. 

The main line now crosses Ipswich River, and stojis at Ipswich 
{Agawam House ; restaui\ant in the station). John Norton, of whom 
Cotton Mather says " he spoke like Hortensius, and wrote like Abericus," 
was tlie pastor of this village from 1636 to 1652. His colleague was 
Nathaniel Ward, the author of tlie ''Simple Cobbler of Agawam," who 
was rector of Stoudon Marcy, Essex Coui>ty, England, until silenced by- 
Archbishop Laud for non-conformity. Capt. John Smith, in 1614, spoke 
of " the many cornfields and delightful groves of Agawam," but in 1632 
a fleet of 100 canoes filled with fierce Tarratines from the Penobscot laid 
waste this fair Indian village and destroyed many of its people. So the 
coast was clear, and John Winthi-op (afterwards founder of New London 
and first Gov. of Connecticut) bought the tov/n of the Sagamore Mascono- 
met for $ 100, and settled here in 1633. 

"The people are noted for their hospitality ; in summer the sea- wind 
blows cool over its healtliy hills; and take it for all in ail, there is not a 
better preserved specimen of a Puritan town in the ancient Common- 
wealth." The chief village is situated on the r. of the track, on both si.les 
of the Ipswich River, whicli is crossed by two stone bridges, one of which 
dates fioni 1764. It has a fine public-library, a soldiers' monument (to 
65 dead), a harbor abounding in clams, and nearly 4,000 acres of liay-jJi'o- 
diicing salt-marsli. There are about 3,700 inhabitants in the town, 
which has hosiery-factories and 6 neat churches. Tliis is the seat of 
Ipswich Female Seminary, an old and famous school " where Andover 
theological students are wont to take unto themselves wives of the 
daugliters of the Puritans." 

A few miles to llie. E., down the river, is the North Ridge on Gniat 



258 Route 37. NEWBURYPORT. 

Neck, and Ipswich Bluff, a favorite sximnier camping-ground for fishing- 
parties. 

Station, Rowley (tlie chief village is over a mile S. W. ), a town largely 
coiiiposed of salt marsh. It was settled in 1638 by a nomadic church, led 
by Ezekiel Rogers, who had been rector of Rowley in Yorkshire, and was 
silenced for Puritanism (non-comformity. ) In 1650 he died, leaving his 
library to Harvard College, and his estate to the Rowly Church. The 
first cloth made in America was turned out from works erected by these 
immigrants. The line now runs across a wide and desolate moor, crosses 
the Parker River, passes the Oldtown Hills on the r., crosses the Newbury- 
port R. R. (Boston and Maine), and stops at 

Newburyport. 

Hotels. — * Merrimac House, .$2.50 a d;iy, 3 7-12 a week. Horse-cars to 
Aniesbury, by Merrimac St. .Sfaf/es daily to Artichoke, \V. Newbury (8 M.). Grove- 
laiid(8 M.), Haverhill (11 M.), Oidtowt), S.ili Jiury Beach, and Plum-Island B.-ach. 
steamers to Blai-k lliK-ks (in sninuier), whence horse-cars to Salisbury beach. 
Jial/road to Boston (see pajie 27H). 

Newburyport is an ancient sea-city, beautifully situated on a declivity 
facing the Merrimac River, and within 3 M. of the ocean, which is seen 
from its wharves and house-tops. It has about li,000 inhabitants, and a 
valuation of $8,000,000. There are 16 churches, 4 banks, and 

2 daily and two weekly newspapers. The chief retail trade is carried on 
in State St., while the wliolesale trade is on the water-front, which is 
traversed by a marginal steam-railway connected with the Eastern Rail- 
road track. Since the absorption of foreign commerce by Boston, New- 
buryport has been forced to adopt the jtolicy of the other small cities of 
the coast, and sustain itself by manufactories, while the old marine aiis- 
tocracy has isolated itself from the new regime. The decadence of the 
city is shown by its decrease in population between 1860 and 1870, which 
amounted to over 500. The streets are generally broad, straight, and quiet, 
while great numbers of shade-trees are found in every part of the place, 
being cared for under the provisions of a fund left for that purpose by a 
public-si^irited citizen. The streets which run up from the river are short, 
and terminate at High St., a broad and umbrageous avenue running IJM. 
along the crest of the ridge, and lined with mansions of the olden time. 
One of these (near the head of Federal St. ) was the home of Caleb Gushing, 
the eminent jurist and diplomatist. Near the head of Olive St. is the 
mansion formerly occupied by Lord Timothy Dexter, an eccentric 
merchant who made a large fortune by singular ventures (sending a cargo 
of warming-pans to the West Indies, and other speculations of a like 
nature). On High St., neur State, is a pond covering six acres, and sur- 
rounded by a mall and terraced promenade, on which the Essex County 
Court House is situated. Nearly opposite is tlie Putnam Free School, a 
higii school of wide reputation, and the Roman Catholic Church, wiiile St. 



NEWBURYPOKT. Route 37. 259 

Paul's Episcopal Cliurcli and the graceful Gothic Chapel of St. Anne are 
buta sliort distance beyond (on High, near Market St.). The City Hall 
is a large, plain building fronting on Brown Square, near which ai'e the 
North Church, the 1st. Baptist, and the Unitarian (the latter- having a 
tall and graceful spire). 

The Public Library was founded by Josiah Little and well endowed by 
George Peabody. It occupies the old Tracy mansion (on State St.) where 
Washington, Lafayette, and other noble guests have been received in the 
palmy days of the place. The two upper stories are now formed into a 
hall, containing about 15,000 books, while on the lower stoiy is a large 
public reading-room (magazines and newspapers). The Marine Museum 
(open daily; on State St.) contains a collection of curiosities brought in by 
the ships of Newljuryport. Besides the usual mementoes of distant lands 
and peoples, there are shown some very elaborate and handsome models 
of ships. 

Oak Hill Cemetery is a beautiful rural burying-ground on State St., 
beyond High. It is entered tlirougli a noble granite gateway, bearing the^ 
inscription, " Until the daybreak, and the shadows flee away." State 
St. runs out into the country, and is prolonged (under the name of the 
Newburyport Turnpike) through Salem and Lynn to Boston. It Avas 
formerly tlie road traversed l)y the great northern and eastern stage-lines. 
The Old South (Presbyterian) Churcli is on Federal St., and has long 
since entered upon its second century. In a vault under the pulpit of 
this church are the mortal remains of George Whitefield, the founder of 
the Calvinistic Methodists, who died in Newburypoi-t in 1770. Thia 
church also has a fine whispering-gallery, only equalled by the one at St. 
Paul's, London (the sexton lives in the small house next to the church). 
The two-story v/ooden house back of the Old South was the birthplace 
of William Lloyd Garrison. 

The river and harbor and neighboring sea afford fine opportunities for sailing 
and fishing, in the summer, which are utilized by a largo fleet of pleasure-boats. 
A favorite drive is to the Chain Bridge (about 3 M. up river), a plaee of rare 
natural beauty, with tlie large stone mansion, " Hawkswood," on one bank, and 
on the other the castellated and far-viewing house occupied for several seasons by 
Bir Edward Thornton, the British Ambassador. Amesl>ury is but a short dis- 
tance beyond the bridge, while the river-road to Haverhill passes through i>leas- 
ing scenery. " The Laurels " are by the river-side above the bridge, and excur- 
sions are frequently made to their cool and sequestered groves. 

The Devil's Den is an old excavation in the limestone ledges, about 2 M. S. of 
the city (by State St.). Asbestos, amiaTithus, and serpentine are found there. 
Duminer Academy is about 3 M. beyond this point, and is an ancient and famous 
school, which was founded and endowed by Gov. Dummer in 1756. Near the 
Academy is Dummer Avenue, with the finest lines of elm-trees in Kssex County. 

3-4 M. from the city is the ancient and picturesque Indian Hill mansion of 
Ben Perley Poore, the author and journalist. This broad and rambling old house 
may be called the Abbotsford of New England, so many are the historic curiosi- 
ties which have been gathered here. The old Garrison House is near Oldtown. 
Green, and is a well-jsreserved specimen of the missive defensive architecture of 
the early colonial days. It was built during the' 17th century, and has suffered 
but little change. 



200 Route 37. SALISBURY BEACH. 

The cnntinuatinn of ITi,!;li Street by Oldtown Green to Pipe Stave ITill (which 
commands ;i bi'o.-ul fea-vicw) iind ParVer River, affords a drive throu-li a well- 
Ki-ttled rural district, which hsis an English air, in the carefulness of its cultiva- 
tion and the antiquity of its liouses. Plvm Idnnd is 2-3 M. E. of Newburyiwrt, 
and is " a wild and fantastic sand-beach, reacliing to Ipswich, 10-12 M. distant, 
and throv.-n u]), by the joint xwwer of winds and waves, into tJie thousand wanton 
figures of a snow-drift." It is joined to the city by a causeway, and has a hotel 
and two lio:ht}iouses, near the N. end. The beach slopes rapidly, and having a 
strong undertow, is not used for bathing, but the breaking of the sea on this bold 
shore after a storm affords a grand sight. 

Salisbury Beach (stages semi-daily in summer) is 4 M. from New- 
bnryport, on the N. side of the Merrimac. Tlie fariiiing town of Salis- 
Iniry is traversed, after crossing the river. This town was settled in 
1G38, and named (in 1640) in compliment to its first pastor, who came 
from Salishiiry in England. Many ancient houses are to be seen here; 
among others the birthplaces of Caleb Cnshing and of Abigail, the 
mother of Daniel Webster ; also the audience-room of tlie royal commis- 
sioners of 1699, and the provincial boundary council in 1737. A long 
plank-road runs across the marshes to the beach, which 

is 6 M. long, extending from tlie Mei'rimac to the Hampton River. The 
sand is hard, smooth, and gently sloping, and is well adapted for long 
drives, and for bathing. The low ridge of sand 

above the high-tide line is taken up by a line of cottages wliich extends 
for over a mile along the shore. Many tents are pitched on the sands 
during the summer, and Whittier's poem, " The Tent on the Beacli," 
well descriljcs this mode of life and the scenery in the vicinity of the 
beach (where its scene was laid). 1| M. S. of the plank-road is the 
moutli of the Merrimac River, with the picturesque I'uins of an abandoned 
fort (built to command the entrance), while the city of Nev/buryport is 
in full sight up the river. Plum Island and Cape Ann are seen on the S. 
from the beach, and Boar's Head, the Isles of Shoals, and Mt. Agamcnti- 
cus on the N. and N. E. Following a ciistom wliich is now two centui-ies 
old, the people of the surrounding towns congregate here every year on a 
day late in August, and enjoy themselves. Sometimes more than 25,000 
people assemble. Steamboats run from Newburyport to Black Jiucks. 

Newbury was settled in 1635 by a colony, under the pastor Thoniiis ParT-:er,i 
which entered the river since called Parker, in the sliip " Hector." There are but 
few towns in New England whose annals are so jieaceful as are those of Newbury, 
which in the 23S years of its history has not felt the tread of a hostile foot, nor seen 
the flash of a hostile gun. The interests of the maritime village at the moutli of 
the Merrimac were found to be so different from those of the farming town of 
Newbury, that Newbuiyport received a separate organization in 1764. In 1772, 
90 vessels were built here, but the Revolution and the drain of men for the Esisex 
County regiments checked the prosperity of the place, and in 1788 only 3 vessels 
were built. President Dwight says of the village in 1796, " Indeed, an air of 

1 Parker studied at Jlagdalen College, Oxford, and early distinguished himself by writing 
two wonderful Latin l)ooks, — " De Traductinne I'eccr.toris '' and " iSIethodns Divinae 
Gratiae." When old and blind, " the Homer of New Eufrlaud," he had along controversy 
■with President Chauucey. " lie went unto the iaunoitals, in April, 1(>77, in the 82nd year 
of his age." 



NEWBURYPORT. Route ST. 2G1 

wealth, taste, and elesance is spread over this beautiful spot ^^'ith a choerfulnoss 
and brilliancy to which I know no rival." Washmgton, Lafajette iaUejiaad 
Louis Philippe of France, and other famous men were entertained here by the 
Scratic families. An extensive foreign commerce was hrmly estab islied and 
in 1S07 the tonnage of the port was over 30,000. The Embargo lell with crushing 
force uiK>n this nuiritime industry, and the Great Fire ()f ISll, winch «weirt a vay 
16 icres from the most densely built quarter, checked the prosperity of the town 
and reduced its population to 6,388. Its valuation in 1810 was about the same as 
fn 1S70 Se town grew .slowly, and its Merrimac-built ships were tamous through- 
out the world for flcetness, strength, and symmetry, and were made m la.^^c num- 
bers until tlie decline of American commerce. The cotton-manufacture was eon - 
menced hei-e in 1836, and is now the leading business of the place, although con- 
sMe able attention is paid to the coasting trade, and there is ^^^ ^^^^t 
belonging to the port. The carriage bridge across the Mernmac wab built i 
1827 ad the Chain Bridge, above the city, was the hrst suspension bridge in 
AmeVS^and the second in the world. The great turnpike rnnmng to Maiden 
Bridge and Boston was finished in 1806, at an expense ot :^ 42 ),000 

Amon- the natives of Newburyport were, the lawyers Charles Jackson, Simon 
GrtSf, John L.nvell, Joseph &unt, and Theophilus Parsons * |« P 'f-~«'. 
James Jackson and W. Inealls ; the inventors, Jacob Perlvius and Edmund Blunt , 
the Sets LucvHooi^er and II. C. Knight; the authors. Geor,;e AVood, George 
SmrsLiSm and Hannah F. LeeTthe divhies, J Gree.ileaf. Bishop Clarke, 
Gardner S, rin- G. R. Noyes, and Stephen H. Tyng ; the generals Michael Jack- 
son RfvoEnary War, cominander of the Sth Mass.), and N.T. Jackson (Secession 
W .V and tile senators WUliain Plumer and Tristrain Dalton. Among those long 
resident here were Hannali F. (9ould, the poetess ; J. B. Gough, the tempera o 
orator; Caleb Cushing. RufusKin-, J. Q. Adams, and Harriet Prescott fel><'»"i«- 
William Lloyd Garrison, " the leader of the emancipalionist movement in the 
U S " w s boni at Newburyport in 1S04. He began to advocate the immediate 
abolition of slavery about lb30, and led the movement lu that direction untd it 
was accomplished, bravely enduring many per.secutions. 

V ,..i,Mr,-T,nit ^Pnt 1 6!;() snhlicis against the Rebellion of 1861-5. 
Ne\\bunp oit ^' "J '-'"'^ ^, '^^'J. j^if^es are about U M. from the city, and were 
TheNewburypoit Silve^ Sh than tlie Neva.la mines. The Chipman- 
opcned ».\^';;v I ';: ,^^;i'-i;';;;',,^ 1 slveml long lateral tunnels, and employs 70 
nduLf 2-Vtons arl tS; out daily, valued at §100 a ton. Rich siirface- 
ii Su.ns of silver have been found in the adjacent towns, especially in George^ 
town; wlK-re very ri(h ores have been secured, the indications bemg that large 

'*T\fobirbronze'stldue of George Washington was presented to Newburyport by 
out of its absen? sons in 1879, and now adorns the open space on High St., near 
the Mall It is the masterpiece of J. Q- A. Ward, the eminent sculptor. 

After leaving Newburyport, the Portland train crosses the Mernmac 
River at a high level, on a costly and massive new bridge, 1500 ft. long. 
Fine views are afforded (to the r.) of the city and river, with tlie ocean in 
the distance. Stations, E. Salisbury and SeabrooJc, a tlnnly settled town, 
whose territory is mostly covered with forests and salt marsh, and whose 
name is derived from the nnmerous brooks which flow through it to the 
sea Many of the people are engaged in making wliale-boats, and the 
inhabitants of the seaward part of the town (S. Seabrook) long bore an 
unenviable reputation. Their physiognomy, dialect, and clothmg were 
so marked and unique that they were always recognized in the neighbornig 
city and designated as "Algerines." A religiou.s and educational mission 
was establi.shed here about 1866, and is now self-supporting and prolilic 
in benefits. Seabrook was settled in 1638, and was often harried durmg 
the Indian wars. . 

Station, Hampton Falls, S. E. of the village of the same name, which 



262 Routes?. HAMPTON BEACH. 

has a large monument erected by the State to Mesliech Weare, the first 
President of N. H. (1776-85). 

Dr. LangdoTi, chaplain of the N. H. regiment in the Lonisburg expedition, 
received 10,000 acres of land in N. H. for "his services, fatignes, and dangers." 
He was President of Harvard Uni\ersity, 1774-80, and pastor at Hanijjton Falls, 
1781 -97, and at his death he left his fine library to the village church. In August, 
1737, the Governor of Mass. rode to this little hamlet at the head of the Legis- 
latui-e and escorted by 5 troops of horse. Here, in the George Tavern, he liad 
long conferences about the provincial boundaries, with the Governor and Legis- 
lature of N. H. The latter demanded the territory which now conijKJses lier two 
lower tiers of towns, whi(di had been settled by Mass. men under Mass. charters. 
The Governors failed to agree, and an appeal was sent to the King, setting forth 
how " the vast, opulent, and overgrown province of Mass. was devouring the poor, 
little, loyal, distressed province of N. II." The royal lieart was touched, and tlie 
King commandeil Mass. to sui'reuder two tiers of towns (:28 in number) from the 
Conn. Eiver to the sea. 

The railroad now passes over long tracts of salt-meadow, on the E. of 
which is Hampton Beach and the ocean. Station, Hampton, an ancient 
village which was settled in 1638, on the Indian domain of Winnicummet, 
and near a block-honse erected by Mass. in 1636 to mark its N. E. border. 
The first settlers were from Norfolk in England, and were long exposed 
to pitiless attacks from the Indians. The town is now a qniet and 
pleasant land of peace and plenty, abounding in gray old colonial man- 
sions, and traversed by broad and level roads. The village near the 
station ( Union House, good) has three churches in the old Puritan archi- 
tecture. Stages run from the station to Hampton Beacli, 3 M. to the 
S. E. (* Boar's Head Hotel, 300 guests ; * Leavitt's Hampton Beach 
Hotel; Eagle House; and at the Loioer Beach, the Ocean House, 160 
guests; Couch House.) Besides the hotels, there are many small summer 
cottages on and near the beach. Boar's Head is a bold bluff 70 ft. high, 
which projects into the sea from a stony strand, and affords the best mariae 
views on the N. H. coast. On the S. is the long and vague line of the 
beaches which front Essex North and stretch by Newburyport to Cape 
Ann, while Mt. Agamenticiis is seen in the N. beyond Rye with its village 
of hotels, and the Isles of Shoals are off shore on the N. E. The Boar's 
Head Hotel is favorably situated on the little grassy plateau on the bluff, 
and has a fine sea-view. (See Whittier's poem, '' Hampton Beach.") 

From the vicinity of Boar's Head a sandy beach extends S. to Hampton 
River, where many vessels were made in the colonial days. The river 
forms a safe harbor for coasters, though its entrance is fringed Avith I'ocks 
and shoals. Its clams are famous, and water-fowl formerly abounded, 
while the settlement of Hampton was due to the abundance of salt hay on 
its marshes. Salisbury Beach begins on the S. shore of the river, and 
extends to the Merrimac, At half and low tide may be seen the rocks 
off sliore, of which Whittier sings (in " The Wreck of Ri vermouth "): — 

" Rivermouth Rocks are fair to see, 
By dawn or sunset shone across. 
When the ebb oftlie sea has left them free 
To dry their fringes of gold-green moss ; 



RYE BEACH. Route 37. 2G3 

" For there the river comes wiiidinof down 
From salt sea-mearlows and iii)lan(ls brown, 
AtkI waves on the outer rficks at'onni 
Shout to its waters, * Welcome Home.' 

" Once, in the oUl Colonial flays, 

Two hundrerl years ago and more, 
A boat sailed down the winding ways 
Ot Hampton Kiver to that low shore." 

Nortli Beach lies to the N. of Boar's Head, and was formerly lined 
with fish-honses from which the hardy iisliernien put out to sea in small 
boats. A road runs N. near tliis stony strand, to Little Boar's Head and 
Rye Beach. The beach at Hampton is composed, for the most part, of 
a gradual slope seaward of liard sand, affording fine facilities for sttrf- 
bathing and also for driving (at low tide). Tlie favorite drives from 
Hampton, inland, are to Exeter, to tlie rich fruit-growing town of Green- 
land, to the ancient village of Hampton Falls, and to Stratham Hill. 

The next railroad station is N. Hampton, in a sparsely populated farm- 
ing town. Stages run throughout the summer to Rye Beach, 4 M. E. 

Hotels. — * Farragut House, S 4 a day, .? 17.50 - 21 a week ; Sea-View, S 15 - 25 ; 
Rising-Sun, SS-15; "Oceari-'Vavo /inarilinfi-hnHses of J. II. Perkins, I. Manlen, 
n. Sawjer, C. A. Jennes8, L. T. Sanborn, G. 11. Jenne.ss, A. BMchelder. 0. H. Coffin, 
and many others, at If? 7 - IS a week. E/>isrnpa/ Chiirc/i of St Andrew's-by-the- 
Sea. There is an admirable drive along the .shore to Straw's Point, commanding a 
succePsion of interesting ocean views. 

Hye is the most fasliionable of- the N. H. beaclies, and presents an 

agreeable ahernatiou of sharp and storm-woni ledges with strips of sand 

on which bathing is safe and pheasant. On tiie S. is Little Boar's Head, 

a sea-beaten bluff on which several fine cottages have been built, together 

with a large private boarding-house. A long, sandy beach stretches N. E. 

from Jenness Beach to Straw'' s Point, which was bought a few years since 

by Gov. Straw, and is now occupied hy the tine seaside cottages of several 

N. H. gentlemen. An extensive marine view is obtained from this point, 

from Boon-Island Light on the N. E. to Cape Ann on the S., embracing 

nearly 40 M. of coast. One of the Atlantic telegraph-cables ends here. 

Drake is of the opinion that " the sliore full of white sand, but very stony and 
rocky," near which Capt. Gosnold anchored (in 1602), was Rye Beach. Tlietown 
of Rye was settled in 1G35, and was named from the English home of some of t!ie 
immigrants. In 1606 a flotilla of Indians attacked tbe people at Sandy Beacli and 
killed or captured 21 of tliem. In tlie same year th.e colonists retaliated by at- 
tacking an Indian band while at breakfast. Tlie hill where this action took place 
(to tlie r. of Greeidand station) lias ever since been called Breakfast Hill. Tlie 
little town lost 8S men in the RevoUitionary War. Large sea-walls of i)ebbles are 
seen near the Rye lieaches, v.hicli were thrown uj) by the waves in the great storm 
which destroyed Minot's Ledge Lighthouse. 

Beyond N. Hampton is Greenland station, in a small fruit-growing 

town. Station, 

Portsmouth. 

notels. * Rockingham House, a superbly frescoed and marhle-paA^ed hotel 
of the hrst class, accommodating 250-300 guests; Kearsarge House ; National 
House. 



2G4 Routes?. PORTSMOUTH. 

Kailroads, to Saro aiul Portland ; to NcwburiT^i't, Salem, ami Boston ; to 
K. L'diiway aini lh« Wliit-i' Mts. ; to Maiicliestcr and Concord. .Stafl'es to Kittcry 
and York Steamers daily (in sumniei) la 1 hr. to the Isles of yiioals ; a small 
ferry-boat plies between Portsmouth and the Navy- Yard. Stages run to New- 
castle. 

The site of Portsmouth was first visited by Capt. Prino; in 1603, and afterwards 
byCapt Smith in 1G14. In 1(523 it was settl('<l (on Odiorne's Point) under the 
auspices of the Laconia Company. A small but armed with several cannon was 
erected on Great Island in 1635. The town was called Strawbeny Bank until 
1653 on account of the abundance of strawV)erries which srew on its hills and 
around the " Great House " of the i',ro]n-ietor, Caj.t. ISIason. The people chose 
Portsmouth as " a name most suitable b>r tliis place, it being the river's mout-i, 
and as good as any in the land," although they probably accepted the idea from 
Capt Mason, "the founder of N. H.," and proi-rietor of its islands, who had 
lon<' been governor of the South Sea Castle, in the harbor of Portsmouth, Eng- 
land. The'^vilbme was fortified M-ith palisades which effectually guarded it from 
Indian marauders, who were repulsed by cannon in 1676. In 1696, a party landed 
near the Plains from a fleet of canoes and killed 14 Englishmen. In 1739, the 
town's-people firmly resisted the annexation of N. H. to Mass., and thus secm-ed 
the provincial independence of the former. In 1746, a new 16-gun battery was 
l)uilt near Fort William and Maiy, on Great Island, and a 9-gun battery was built 
at Little Harbor, to resist the expected French Armada. In Dec, 17 < 4 SuUivau 
took Fort AVilliam and Mary by surprise (with Rockingham Count yjolunteers), 
and carried awav 100 barrels of powder and 15 cannon, and in In 5 the same 
gentleman led the 3d N. H. Regiment to the Continental camp at Cambridge. 
At the close of the Revolution, De Warville found here " a thin population, many 
houses in ruins, women and chiMren in rags, and everything announcing decline. 
A brisk era of maritime prosperity soon carried the town to a higher level and 
many fine mansions were built for the new families of consequence. But the 
Embargo, a succession of disastrous fires, and the decdine of its commerce, fully 
checked this tide of prosperity, and the city (chartered in 1S49) has long been 
losing ground. Between 1S53 and 1870 it lost over 1,800 inhabitants. 

Portsmouth, the capital of New Hamp.shire from 1712 to 1807, and its 
only seaport, is a quaint and pleasant old city (of 9,211 inhabitants), 
situated on a peninsula 3 M. from the mouth of the Piscataqua River. 
*' Tliere are nfore quaint houses and interesting traditions in Portsmouth 
than in any other town in New England." The Mansard mania has not 
reached these quiet and shaded streets, and the prevailing architecture 
seems to be that of the colonial days. There is a fine U. S. building 
here, also a few neat churches, while the Parade, or central square, ex- 
hibits two or three specimens of curious old architecture. The city has 
4 banks, 9 churches, 2 daily and 3 weekly new.spapers (of which the 
N. II. Gazette is the oldest American paper continuously published, 
having been established in 1756). There are also manufactories of shoes, 
carriages, furnittire, cotton goods, &c. The quietness of the city, it:; 
salubrious sea-air, the pleasant drives in the vicinity, and the nearness 
of fine br'aches, render Portsmouth a favorite and desirable summer-re- 
sort. The Athenreum (on Market Square) has about 12,000 volumes and 
a large reading-room. The old Church of St. John is worthy of a visit, 
and so is Gov. Wentworth's mansion at Little Harbor (2 M. distant). 
This is a large, irregular, and picturesque building (dating from 1750) 
which contains the old provincial council-chamber, and many quaint 



THE ISLES OF SHOALS. Route 37. 265 

relics of the past, among which some portraits by Copley will be noticed. 
George Wasliington paid a visit to this mansion while the Wentworths 
were still there (it passed out of their hands in 1817). Portsmouth Har- 
bor is one of the best in New England, always free from ice, 70-80 ft. 
deep, and the river is f M. wide opi^osite the city. 

Portsmouth has given to American literature, T. B. Aldrich, J T. Fields, B. P. 
Shillaber, and Ehza B. Lee ; to the church. Dr. Nichols and Bishop Parker ; to 
the bar, Jud^;es Livermore and Langdon, and the Atkinsons : to t!ie State, Gov. 
Benning Wentworth, 8ir John Wentworth, and Senator John Langdon ; and to 
the navy. Commodores Parrott and Long, and Connnauder Craven. 

Opposite Portsmouth (steam-ferry frequently from the foot of Daniel 
St. ) is the TJ. S. Navy Yard, on Continental Island, in the town of Kittery 
(Maine). It has extensive ship-houses, machine-shops, rigging-lofts, 
Avharves, and barracks; also a dry-dock which cost $ 800,000. 

This city has ever been famed for its naval architecture. In 1600, the " Falk- 
land," 54 guns, was built here ; in 16it6, the " Bedford," 32 ; in 1740, the " Amer- 
ica," 40 ; in 1770, the "Raleigh," 32; in 1777, the "Ranger," 18; in 1784, the 
"America," a superb line-of-l)attle ship, presenteil to France. The Pcppcrell 
Hotel is a pleasant sunmier-resort at Kitterj% with tine sea-views, boating, bath- 
ing, fishing, and riding. The Ocean-View Hotel is near by. 

Kittery Point village, near the Navy Yard and Fort McClary, has the ancient 
Pe])perell, Sparhawk, and Cutts mansions, fine old colonial houses, filled with the 
remnants of tlieir quaint furniture. Pepperell's tomb is near the first-named. 

Sir William Pepperell was Itorn at Kittery Point in l()9o. He rose rapidly in 
the colonial military service until 1745, when he conunanded the expedition which 
took Louisburg, for which he was knighted. He occupied imjjortant positions in 
xVew England, was made a lieut.-gen. in the British army, and Gov. of Mass., and 
died in 1759. His grandson. Sir W. P. Sparhawk, assumed the Pepx)ereU name 
and inherited the vast estates, which were sequestrated in 1778, on account of 
hio adliereuce to the British government in opposition to America. 

The * Isles of Shoals are 10 M, from Portsmouth, and consist of 8 
rocky islets (9 M. from the shore), the largest of which contains 350 
acres. There is but little vegetation on these rugged ledges, which lift 
themselves out of deep water, and are surrounded by the purest and 
coolest sea-air. 

The steamer leaves Portsmouth in the morning, and affords a fine retro- 
spect of the city. The public works and national vessels at the Navy 
Yard are soon passed, and then the island-town of Newcastle (on the r. ). 
This town was settled before 1630, and incorporated in 1693. It was the 
site of old Fort William and Mary, and now has the poweri'ul Fort Con- 
stitution and the Portsmouth Light. On the 1. Fort McClary is seen, on 
Kittery Point, and the Wliale's Back Liglithouse is passed, with Frost's 
and Odiorne's Points on the r. As the steamer gains the open sea, the 
coast of Maine is seen on the N. W., trending away beyond Mt. Agamen- 
ticiis. The Isles are now rapidly approached. The * Apiiledore House 
is a great hotel on Appledore Island, accommodating 500 guests, at $ 3.00 
a day. The great * Oceanic lintel has beeii rebuilt (opened in 1873, 
burnt in 1875), and is on Star Island, the former site of the vil- 
12 



266 Route 37. YORK. 

la^e of Gosport. Several family cottages are attached to tlie hotel, 
and leased by the season. On Star Island is a small cavern, wliere 
a woman once hid in a rocky recess while tlie Indians massacred the 
people of the settlement. It is said that she killed her two children to 
prevent them from discovering her to the Indians by their cries. Another 
point on the rocky shore was the favorite resort of a lady school-teacher, 
who was wont to read there, until Sept. 11, 1848, when a huge wave 
washed her away, to be seen no more. Fine trap-dikes are found on this 
island. 1 M. S. W. is White Island, with a powerful revolving light, 87 
ft. above the water, and visible 15 M. away. Haley's (or Smutty Nose) 
Island is between Appledore and Star, and has the graves of 16 of the 
crew of the Spanish ship " Sagunto," which was lost here (in 1813) with 
all on board. Duck Island is 2 M. N. E. of Appledore, and is a rugged 
and dangerous mass of rock. Fine fishing may be enjoyed from boats 
about the islands, and yachts may be engaged at the hotels. 

The Isles of Shoals were discovered by Chainplain in 1605, and were visited by 
ineisieboioi t last-named manner named them 

^^^^i^^L^l^^rZ^^^ early adopted and in 1G23 "the Isles o 
Shoulcii " are s^en of (derived probably from the shoahng or " schoohng of 

'^^Tlll' m^fAppleSS^^^^^^ soon colonized, and in 1640 had a considerable 

was purchased and depopulated . 

York villa-e is 9 M. N. E. of Portsmouth (daily stages over a hilly 
road to the btnich and the Marshall House). It is a .piiet and pleasant old 
martime hamlet, with several ancient houses, and a slender-spired church 
which was built in 1748. 4 M. N. are two quaint old garrison-houses, - 
Mclntire's and Junkin's, while the clayey valley of York River, being 
fertilized with sea-weed, has some fine farms, which are noted for their 
apples and cider. H M. from the village is York BeacH, one of the bes 
in New England, about H M. long and formed of gently sloping hard 
gray sand. At its N. end Cape Neddick runs out into the sea, with a 
curious rocky islet called -The Nubble" off its point, and separated from 
it by a deep, narrow, and tide-swept channel. 

w ♦^i. TVInr'^hall Hnw^e c U -21 a week, overlooking the Short Samb 
Hotels. — Mars««" * ^ v^X w^rhor rWbv two snnnnor hoardu 

!;:;;:aTrj:j:!r<^x.si;S,r, .r: laiSwiiJ k.i'„ra, and bot ... ., , 



BALD HEAD CLIFF. Route 37. 267 

sea- water baths ; Sea Cottage^ near middle of Lon^ Sands ; at Union Bluffs (E. end 
of l^oug SauJs), are the Tliouip.-oii, Fairmouut, and Agauienticus Houses. Tlie I'ar- 
viewin,!^ CiiO' llouse is at Bald Haud L'/lff. Tliere are many cheap cottages to let 
on Ijung Sauds and at i'oncordcllle (1 M. from lighthouse on Nubble, and 2 M, 
from Cape NeJdick village). Sti-ainhoat twice daily from Portsmouth to York 
Harbor and Union Blulis Jjee also Marpt:r''s Ma(jax,i)Ui for Sept., 1883. 

6-7 M. from York Beach (by a bad road through Cape Neddick) 
is Mt. Agamenticics, a lofty hill wlieiice fine views of tlie ocean and of 
the Wlute Mts. may be obtained. About 5 M. N. from the beach is 
* Bald Head Cliff, a remarkable rocky promontory, " second only to the 
Giant's Causeway in wild and majestic grandeur." The highly inclined 
strata of the ledges show long and I'egular stripes of vivid and variegated 
colors, while the action of storms and rolling surf has broken the cliff 
into curious shapes. The view from the Puljyit when a heavy sea is roll- 
ing is awe-inspiring, with such force do the great surges break on the 
rocks below. On its S. W. side tlie cliff falls sheer for 85 ft., to the 
water. Some years since, a new barque from Kennebunkport, being 
lightly ballasted, was driven in on Bald Head Cliff, and lost, with its crew 
of 14 men. Boon Island is seen off shore, with its lighthouse, 133 ft. 
above the sea. The Nottingham Galley, 10 guns, was wrecked on this 
island in 1710, and a horrid cannibalism sustained the life of the few men 
who were saved. The long Oguuqmt Beach stretches from Bald Head 
Cliff to Wells. 

York was settled about 1624, and in 1642 Sir Ferdinando Gorges established 
here the city of Gorgeana, with a full iiumicipal govennnent, and semi-yearly 
fairs, — to occur at the feasts of SS. James and Paul. Gorges was Lord Palatine 
of Maine, and vainly tried to establish a feudal system here. The death of Gorges 
and the rise of the English republic made it easy for Massachusetts to take ])os- 
session of Gorgeana City in 1652, and 10 years later the province took away the 
city charter, and named the town York. It was then the chief place in Maine, 
and received a large addition to its poimlation by the arrival of a detachment of 
exiled Scotchmen who had been captured by Cromwell at the battle of Dunbar. 
The Indians made frequent attacks on York, and in 1676 they destroyed Cape 
Neddick village and its people. Feb. 5, 1692, the town was attacked at da\Ani by 
300 Indians and Frenchmen, who had marched from Canada on snow-shoes. 
Many of the villagers gained refuge in the garrison-houses, which were success- 
fully defended while the remainder of the settlement was destroyed. After a 
bloody slaughter in the streets the assailants retired, leading 100 prisoners with 
them to Canada, after killing 75 of the peo]>le of York. Henceforth until 1744, 
the settlers kept guarded as if in a state of siege, and throughout Queen Anne's 
War (1702-1712), spy-boats patrolled the coast betweeti Cape Neddick and Boar's 
Head. 3 companies from York went to the Louisburg campaigns, and on the 
moi-ning after the battle of Lexington, 60 men marched thence to Cambridge. 

*The Wentworth is a modern and first-cLiss summer-hotel ($4.50 a 
day; S 21 -S -"iS a week), with electric lights, billiards, bowling, stables, 
orchestra of 20 pieces, music hall, boating, batiiing, fishing, and an im- 
mense view along the coast, including 8 light-houses, and toward the 
inland hills. It is 2 M. from Portsmouth (frequent stages) and near New 
Castle, a quaint fishernu'n's town of 600 inhabitants (see pages 264-5). 
On Jaffrey's Point is the stone-towered villa of Edmund C. Stedman, th? 
poet and critic, near the home of John Albee, a graceful local poet. 



268 Routes?. WELLS. 

Portsmouth to Portland. 

Beyond Portsmouth the train crosses the Piscataqua River, affording a 
pleasant view ^to ther.) of the ancient city, and of the distant Navy 
Yard. Stations, Kittery (3 M. from Kittery Point), Elliot (a pretty 
farming-town), and Conway Junction, where trains diverge to N. Con- 
way and the White Mts., 71 M. distant (see Route 3].). 3 M. beyond 
Conway Junction is «S'. Berwick Junction, 

S. Berwick village is 2 M. 
distant, and has considerable manufactures. Stations, N. Berwick and 
Wells. The Boston & Maine R. R. crosses at N. Berwick. 

Wells was founded in 1643 by Rev. John Wheelwright, who had been banished 
from Mass. for heresy. In 1676 the settlement was vainly attacked by Mo^'g 
Megonc, and in 1692 a fui'ious assault was made by 500 men, led by Fi'eiich offi- 
cers. After a 48 hours' siege, the enemy, led by M. Burniffe, Gen. Labocre, and 
the Tarratine chiefs Madockawando and Egeremet, attempted to storm the fort, 
but were disastrously repidsed by the artillery and musketry of Capt. Converse's 
garrison. In 1703, 39 of the peox)le of Wells were killed or captured. 

Wells Village {Ocean House, 60- 75 guests, $10-12.00 a week) is 
about 4 M. S. E. of the station, and is finely situated on a high ridge 
overlooking the ocean. The houses are built along the old northern post- 
road, and are separated from the beach by Wells River. 1^ M. from the 
village (good road) is "Wells Beach {Atlantic Bouse, $10-16 a week; 
Bay- View House ; Hif/hhind Cottage, $ S - 14- a week), a sandy strand, with 
rocky ledges off shore, furnishiug good bathing and hunting. The view 
from the AtLantic House is grand, embracing Boon Island, Ogunquit Beach, 
and the trend of the coast from Bald Head CUff to Cape Porpoise. A short 
distance S. of Wells is the ancient village of Ogun(iuit, with Bald Head 
Cliff beyond, while 4-5 M. N. is Kennebunk. 
The Boston and Maine R. R. has a station ■within 1 M. of the Atlantic House 
Station, Kennebunk (restaurant), 3 M. from the village {Mousam 
House), which has several factories and shipyards, with 4 churches. 
3 - 5 M. beyond are the maritime villages of Kennebunkport and Capt 
Porpoise. Large granite breakwaters are built out on each side of the 
mouth of the Kennebimk River, from which a beach runs W. 2-3 JI. to 
the Mousam River. There are several small boarding-houses here {Sea 
View, Beach, and Fairvieiv Houses). Near Cape Porpoise village {Goose 
Rocks House) is a group of small islands sheltering a good harbor. 

This locality was first visited in 1602, and settled in 1629. In 1690 the provin- 
cial garrison on Stage Island was removed, and the Indians soon attacked thp> 
settlenipnt, upon which the jieople withdrew to the fort. After a long siege by 
the Indians, a crippled man from the fort escaped by night in a leaky canoe to 
rortrsmouth, whence aid was sent, and tlie peoi)le were taken off. Tlie plaee Avaft 
deserted for 9 years, and 3 years after its resettlement (1702) it was utterly de- 
stroj-ed by 500 Indians. In 1713 the town Avas again occupied, and in 1717 it was 



BIDDEFORD. Route 37. 2G9 

incorporated by the Mass. Legislature, with the name of Arundel. After bearing 
this name lor 104 years, the town discarded it for its ^ireseut name. 

Beyoud Kennebuiik the train reaches Biddeford, a city of over 10,000 
inliabitants, witli 4 baulvs (2 of deposit), 3 newspapers, and 13 churches. 
Opposite Biddeford, and across the Saco River, is the city of Saco (Saco 
House), with 5,757 inhabitants, 4 banks (2 of deposit), and a weekly 
paper. The river has 55 ft. of falls between the cities, fm-nishing a fine 
w^ater-power, which is utilized by the York, Pepperell, and Laconia cot- 
ton factories, running 175,000 spindles, with about $ 3,000,000 capital, 
and employing over 3,000 operatives. Several hundred men are engaged 
ill large machine shops, while great numbers are in the lumber-mills. 

This district was first visited by De Monts in 1605, and Vines wintered here in 
1G17-18. Permanent settlements were made about 1030, and in 1G75 the Sokokis 
Indians were repulsed with severe loss from the fort at the falls. In 1703, this fort 
was taken by another attack, led by French officers, and in 170S Fort Mary was 
built. Uiddeford was bought for £90 by Wm. Phillips, of Boston, and in 1718 
received its separate incorijoration, and was named for an English city whencu 
came several of its settlers. It became a city in 1855. Saco was incorjiorated as 
I'eppei-ellborough in 1762, and was named in honor of the knight who owned its 
territory. It was called Saco in 1805, and became a city in 1867. The celebrated 
Saco River regiment (5th Maine) was raised hereabouts in 1861, and served through 
the Secession War, being most distinguislied for its brilliant bayonet-charge at 
Rappaiiannock Station, where it took hundreds of prisoners and the flags of the 
8th Louisiana, and 6th, 7th, and 54th North Carolina regiments. 

Biddeford Pool is 9 M. from the station (7 M. for pedestrians, by Fort 
Hill and the ferry). Steamers run twice daily from the pier below the 
falls, down the beautiful river to the Bool. 

Hotels. — Highland House, 300 guests, § 10 - 25 a M-eek ; Ocean House, S? 7 - 
1(1; Jlolman House ; Fletcher House; Minsion House, $6 a week. At Bay 
A iew, or Ferry ilecicli, — Bay- View House, 150 guests, i<H- 12 a week. 

The steamboat from Biddeford touches at Ferry lieacli, connecting there with 
the Old- Orchard Beach 11. K. 

The village is on a peninsula opposite the hill on which are the ruins of 
Fort Mary (built in 1708). Near by is a quaint old house of the 17th 
century. The Pool is a broad and muddy-bottomed cove, which is very 
nearly land-locked, and is filled hy each tide. There was formerly a 
popular belief tliat whosoever entered the Pool on the 2i)tli of June wouKl 
be cured of all disease. On the ocean-front near the hotels is a fine, sandy 
beacli with good facilities for surf-bathing (rent of baihing-houses, $1.00 
a week), wliile a resounding rocky shore stretches around toward the 
harbor. N. E. of the Pool is Stage Island, wliere a British frigate de- 
stroyed 5 vessels in 1814, and Wood Island, with a powerful revolving 
red light. 

The P>nston and Maine Railroad (Route 38) touches the present route at Bidde- 
ford, and tourists who wish to visit the I'ooi will find that route equally near. 

After leaving Biddeford, the train crosses the Saco River, and passes on 
to Saco station, with fine views of the sister cities on the r. 5 M. farther 



270 Route 37. ' PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

on is W. Scarborough station, whence stages ran in 3 M. to Scarborough 
Beach (Atlantic House, 50-60 guests ; Kirkwood House, somewliat 
larger ; both good houses ; also several inexjiensiA'e boarding-houses). 
The beach is 2-3 M. long, hard, level, and safe for batliing, wliile the 
fishing offshore is very good. A fine piece of forest near the Atlantic 
House fumiislies pleasant walks. Front's or Libby's Neck (with two 
large summer boarding-houses) projects into the ocean from the S. end of 
the beach, while on the N. is Richmond's Island, off the mouth of Spur- 
wink River, and Cape Elizabeth with its large hotels. 

This town was settled about 1630, and in 1658 submitted to Mass. and adojited 
the English name, Scarborough, in place of its Indian name, Owaseoag("a place 
of much grass"). In King Philip's War it wa.s defended by troops of Mass. 
against several Indian attacks, over 200 men being in garrison here. The troops 
were called away in 1(;7G, and the enemy destroyed the town, and in 1677 240 
Mass. soldiers were landed here. They were tiereely attacked, and defeated with 
the loss (»f 60 men and their commander, Capt. 8wett. In 1681 a large fort (parts 
of which still remain) was built at Black Point, but the town was abandoned 
between 1690 and 1702. In 1703, the fort was attacked by 500 men under M. 
Beaubarin, but was defended by a brave little band from Lynn, while heavy niins 
caused the hostile mines to fall in. After over 100 Enghsh lives had been sacri- 
ficd by tlie Indians, Scarborough became firmly established, and in 1791 was as 
Jiopulous as Portland (2,235 inhabitants). The exodus from JIaine has greatly 
Aveakened this town, which in 1870 had a population smaller by 544 souls than 
that of 1791. 

6 M. beyond W. Scarborough (passing Scarborough and Cape Elizabetli 
stations) the train crosses Fore River, and stops at Portland. 

Portland and its Environs. 

Arrival. The Boston station is about 1 M. from the centre of the city, and a 
cariiage should be taken, as the district to be traversed is unattractive. 

Hotels. *Falmouth House, a fine structure on Middle St., J82.50-3 a day • 
Preble House, United States Hotel, S 2 -2.50 a day ; City, $ 2 a day. 

Hoi'se-cars on Congress St. from Vaughan St. to the Observatory every 15 
minutes; from the Preble House, by Preble, Portland, and Greeu Sts,,to Evergi-eeu 
Cemetery, Deering ; from Congress, by Spring, to Emery St. 

Rejidinn-i'ooiiiS. The Y. M. C. Association, corner of Congress and Casco 
Sts. ; the Public Library, in the City Hall, open 10 A. M. to 9 P. M. ; the Portland 
Fraternity, 4 Free St. ; Merchants' Exchange, Exchange St. 

Kailroatls. The Ea.stern R. R., to Portsmouth and Boston (Route 37) ; the 
Boston and Maine R. R., to Lawrence and Boston (Route 38) ; Maine Central 
(Portland and Kennebec) R. R., to Augusta and Bangor (Route 47) : Maine Cen- 
tral (Lewiston Division) to Lewiston and Bangor (Route 46) ; Portland and Og^ 
densburg R. R., to N. Conway and Upper Bartlett (Route 39) ; cars of the Knox 
and Lincoln R. R., for Rockland (Route 44); Portland and Ro'hester R. R. ; 
Grand Ti-unk Railway (Route 40). 

Steain.ships. The Allan Mail Line runs between Portland and Liverpool 
fi-om Nii\cml>tr to May, and from May to November T)etween (^m'oec and Liver- 
pool. Cabin-fares, .';* 65 -80.00 ; third-fdass, .s'30.00. Vessels of tlic International 
Steamship Co. ran thrice weekly (Mondays, Wednesdays, and I^'iidays, at 5 P. iL) 
to Eastport and St- John, connecting with steamers for Annapolis and Halifax. 
Portland to St. J(dni, .S5.00. A weekly steamer leaves for Halifax direct; fare, 
$S.00. Semi-weekly steamers leave Franklin Wharf icr New York; fare (includ- 
ing state-room), S5.00. Dailv steamers leave Franklin Wharf at 7 P. M. for 
Boston ; fare. 81.00 (with state-room. .8 2(t0). These vessels are large and com- 
modious, and the trip allords i>leasaut views of tiie harbors of Portland and 



PORTLAND. Routes?. 271 

Boston. Tri-wpekly stenmers also for the Penobscot River, stopping at the 
river-ports from Rockland to Bangor. The steamer " Lewiston " leaves Railroad 
Wharf semi-weekly for Mt. Desert and Machias (see Route 45). Smaller boats 
run semi-weekly to Boothbay, Peinaquid, Waldoboro, a;id Damariscotta (see Route 
44) ; and several times daily to Peak's and Cushing's Islands. Excursion steam- 
ers frequently ascend Casco Bay to Harpswell. 

Portland was settled in 1632, on the Indian domain of Machigonne, and was 
named Casco Neck until it passed under tise Mass. government in 1658, when it 
received the name of Falmouth, In 1676, the settlement was destroyed by the 
Indians, and 35 of its people were killed and captured. The desolated village 
was repopulated in 1678, and received an accession of Huguenot immigrants 
from La Rochelle, but the Indians soon rose again, and in 1689 killed 14 of the 
town-guard on Munjoy's Hill. In the same year, the town was menaced by a 
large hostile force, but was delivered by the opportune arrival of Major Church, a 
slcilful partisan officer, with troops from tlie PJymoutli Colony. Church marched 
out to the vicinity of the Deering estate, and boldly engaged the enemy, who was 
put to flight after a sharp skirmisli in which tiie Plymoutli men lost 11 killed and 
many wounded. After Church had left the town (16it0), the three main defences 
were attacked by 500 Frenchmen and Indians. One of them was evacuated and 
another was stormed. Fort Loyall, the largest fort on the coast (then on the 
jiresent site of the Grand Trunk station), was fiiirly garrisoned and mounted 8 
cannon. Having destroyed tlie village and most of its inhaliitants, the fort was 
besieged fur 5 days, and mined under the direction of tlie French officers. Ere 
tlie mine was sprung the fort surrendered, and the survivors of its garrison were 
taken to Quebec. Scores of the people were killed, and loO were made lu'isoners. 
In 1703 the neighboring villages of Spurwink and Purpooduck were destroyed, 
and 55 people killed or cajitured. After the Peace of Utrecht, in 1713, the place 
was again occupied and grew slowly, the population of 720 souls in 1753 having 
increased to 2,000 by 1764. October 18, 1775, this jjrosperous town was bom- 
barded by 4 British war-vessels (the Canseau, Cat. and others, under command of 
Capt. Mowatt, who liad previously sutfered some indignities here). Detachments 
of marines were landed, and between their incendiaiy labors and nine hours of 
cannonading from the fleet, 414 buildings were utterly destroyed, leaving but 100 
standing. Tlie rebuilding of Falmouth was commenced in 1783 ; in 1785, the 
" Falmouth Gazette " was started, " to advocate the inde]iendence of Maine " (then 
under the Mass. government) ; and in 1786 a town was incorporated here, with 
2,000 inhabitants, under the name of Portland. In 1832 it became a city (popula- 
tion 13,000), and soon afterwards began the construction of great railway lines to 
tlie back country. An extensive foreign trade sprang up, jn-incipally with the 
West Indies, and the city grew rapidly in wealth and importance. On the night 
of July 4th, 1866, a disastrous tire swept away one half of the compact part of the 
city, causing a loss of $ 6,250,000. 



Portland, the commercial metropolis of Maine (with 36,000 inhabitants 
and a valuation of $31,2.59,401), is situated on a high peninsula in the 
S. W. end of Casco Bay. Its harbor is deep and well sheltered, and 
defended by three powerful forts, while several large islands beyond afford 
favorite resorts in the summer season. The peninsula on which the city 
is built is 3 M. long, and at the centre is little over \ M. wide. It is 
botmded by Portland Harbor and Fore River on the S. and W. , and by 
Back Cove on the N. Bramhall's Hill, on the W. of the peninstila, is 
175 ft. high ; Munjoy's Hill, on the E., is 161 ft. ; and the central part 
of the city is 57 ft. above the water. The Western Promenade looks down 



272 Route 37. PORTLAND. 

on the rural environs from Eranihall's Hill, and from this point Congress 
St. runs down the length of the peninsula to the Eastern Promenade on 
Munjoy's Hill, from which line views of the bay and islands may be ob^ 
tained. Each of these promenades is 150 ft. wide, divided into sections, 
and planted with lines of trees. 

The City Hall is a large and imposing building of light Nova Scotia 
stone, surmounted by a singular dome. Passing from this point up 
Congress St., with Lincoln Park on the r., the Homan Catholic Bishop's 
Palace is seen on the 1., and the large Cathedral of the Immaculate Con- 
ception. Beyond St, Luke's Church (Epis.) on the 1., a large building 
occupied by a graded city school is passed, and alongside of it the old 
Eastern Cemetery is seen. 

Among those who are buried here are Commodore Prehle and Captains Bur- 
roughs and Blythe. Edward Prt-lile was l)orn at Portland in 1761, and was an 
ottiL'tT in tlie American Navy duviny the Revolution. He commanded tlie squad- 
ron wliirh sailed to Tripoli in 1803, and humbled its piratical people by several 
bombardments of the city, at the same time averting the dangers of a war between 
the Emperor of Morocco and the United States. Burroughs and Blj-the com- 
manded respectively the American war-vessel, tlie " Enterprise," and the British 
brig, the " Boxer," which fought off Pemaquid in 1813. After a sharp action of 
48 minutes, in which both captams were killed, the " Boxer " surrendered and was 
taken into Portlajxd. 

Just beyond the cemetery is the observatory on Munjoy's Hill, which 
shoidd be ascended for the sake of its extensive * view (small fee to the 
keeper). To the S. W. , on the heights beyond Fore River, is the fine 
castellated building of the State Rcfomn School, with the plains of Scar- 
borough aiid Saco beyond, and far down the coast is tlie blue cone of Mt. 
Agamenticus. Portland and its inner harbor lie to the S. and W., with 
Bramhall's Hill at the further en<l of the ridge. To the N. W. is the 
village of Gorham (Maine), over Back Cove and Deering's Oaks, and far 
beyond, 80 M. distant, the Wliite Mts. may be seen in clear weather. N. 
E. are the numerous verdant islands in the blue waters of Casco Bay, Avith 
the bending shores of Falmouth and Cumberland. The lighthouse on 
Seguin Island, at the mouth of the Kennebec, 25 M. distant, is easily 
seen by the aid of the telescope suspended from the roof, while on the 
E. is the outer harbor, with Peak's aiid Cushing's Islands, and the mas- 
sive fortifications. S. E. is Cape Elizabeth, with its summer hotels, and 
the Twin Sisters (Portland lighthouses). A short distance beyond the 
Observatory is the Eastern Promenade. The Marine Hospital, which 
may be seen from this point, Is a fine building fronting on the Bay at 
Martin's Point. 

The U. S. Custom House is an elegant granite building in the peculiar 
style whicli has been introduced by the architects of the present Adminis- 
tration, The inner hall, with its elaborate marble ornamentation, is 
worthy of a visit. A sliort distance N. E. of the Custom House are the 




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ENVIRONS OF PORTLAND. Route 37. 273 

piers of the New York, Boston, and Liverpool lines of steam.ers, and the 
extensive terminal station of the Grand Trunk Railway. 

Tlie * Post Office is a beautiful structure of white Vermont marble, built 
in the mediaeval Italian architecture, with an elegant i;pper portico sup- 
ported by Corinthian columns. Tliougli small, this is one of the richest 
and most pleasing of the national buildings in New England. In this 
vicinity are the stately buildings of the City Hall and the Falmouth Hotel, 
with many fine commercial buildings. Beyond the Mechanics' Hall a 
succession of fine residences are seen stretching up the slopes of Bram- 
liall's Hill, on streets so thickly lined with shade-ti'ees as to have given 
to Portland the name of "the Forest City." The trees in the central 
streets were destroyed during the great lire of 1866. 

The Society of Natural History has good collections of shells, minerals, 
birds, &c. ; and the libraries of the Athena?um and Institute are often 
visited. There are several neat stone churches in the city. 

The commercial facilities of Portland have Vieen greatly increased bylhe oon- 
strurtiou of a maryinal railway along the water-frout of the city, with side-tracks 
running down the wharves. The imports in IST-t were 8 •25,022,%0 ; the exports 
AVfre i?2G,()65,646. Tlie tonnage of the j^nt is 110,830 tons. Portland lias a lucra- 
tive trade with Great Britain ; but her chief commerce is with the West India 
Islands, vast amounts of shooks and sugar-barrels having been sent there, and 
repaid by return eargoes of sugai- and molasses, which were worked over in largo 
rotineries in tlie city. Brown's sugar-liouse is the lofty building witli many 
small windows, bet\<een the railroad station and the city. It was rebuilt witlun 
CO days after the Great Fire. In 1870 there were received at Portland nearly 
15,000 hogsheads of sugar and 45,000 hogsheads of molasses. 

The city is supplied with water from Lake yebago, 17 M. distant, which Is 247 
ft. above tide-water, and is said to have the purest lake-water in the world. 20 
M. of pipes underlie the city and convey the water to all its parts. There are 
here 3 daily papers, 7 weeklies, and 3 monthlies. 

Evei'green Cemetery is 2^ M. from Portland (by stage or railway), and has 
pleasant woodland grounds covering 177 acres. There is a fine Gothic monument 
of Caen stone over the remains of William Pitt Fessenden, U. S. Senator IVom 
1854 to 1869. 

Portland was the birthplace of Henry W. Longfellow, the poet ; N. P. Willis, 
the poet and traveller ; Sara P. Parton (Willis's sister), who wrote popular essays 
under the pseudonym of "Fanny Fern"; Erastus and James Brooks, the New 
York journalists and politicians ; Rear-Admiral Alden, who was distinguished in 
the naval battles at Vera Cruz, New Orleans, and Mobile ; Commodore Preble, 
who rommanded in the Tripolitan War; Capt. G. H. Preble, who fouglit in the 
Mi^xican and Secession wars ; John Neal, the poet and noveUst ; and Neal Dow, 
the reformer. 

Environs of Portland. 

Cape Elizabeth is S. of the harbor, and stretches its rugged cliffs into 
the ocean. The drives over this surf-beaten promontory are veiy pleasant 
during the summer, and extend to the Twin Sisters lighthouses, at the 
end of the cape, 9 M. from the city. The Cape Cottage is 3 M. from 
Portland, and is a large and picturesque hotel, built of stone, and accom- 
modating 100 guests (frequent stages to the city). The scenery is fine, 
embracing the shoreless ocean on one hand and the entrance to the harbor 
12* R 



274 Route 37. ENVIRONS OF PORTLAND. 

on the other. 5 M. beyond this point is the Ocean House, a large hotel 
near a lianl, sandy beach, with good facilities for surf-bathing. 10 M. 
from Portland is the Atlantic House, on Scarborough Beach. The Port- 
land Light is Sj M. from the city, on a higli bluff which commands broad 
sea-views. A steam -ferry runs from Custom House Wharf to Cape 
Elizabeth village, and i M. from its pier is Fort Preble, a formidable 
work on a commanding point. To the N. is the town of Cape Elizabeth, 
and 2J M. fi-om Portland is the fine building of the State Reform School. 

Steamers run several times daily (in summer) to the islands in Casco 
Bay. This is one of the pleasantest short marine excursions on the coast, 
and can be made in 3 - 4 hours, although it is better to go down on a fore- 
noon boat, dine at the Ottawa House, spend the afternoon on Cushing's 
Island, and return on the afternoon boat. 

The steamer leaves the pier and passes into the harbor, with Fort 
Preble on the low point to the r., and the more powerful works of Forts 
Scammel and Gorges on islands in front. Beautiful retrospects are af- 
forded of Portland, rising in terraced lines along its hills. Casco Bay, 
over a small part of which the steamer passes, is one of the most pic- 
turesque of American bays, and some enthusiastic persons rank it next to 
the Italian Bay of Naples. It is popularly supposed to contain 3G5 
islands (like Lake Winnepesaukee), and its green archipelago abounds in 
good fishing-places. Boats of all sizes, with experienced captains, may 
be hired in Portland. Diamond Island, about 5 M. from the city, is fre- 
quently visited by large parties, and has noble groves of old trees, with a 
bold, rocky shore opening occasionally in level strips of beach. Diamond, 
Pleasant, and Indian Coves are beautiful and sequestered inlets, bordered 
with beeches, maples, and oaks. Peak's Island is 4 M. from the city, 
and is a popular summer- resort for the people of Cimiberland County. 
There are several small and inexpensive hotels here (Casco House, Union 
House, and others), and fine views of the city with its harbor and de- 
fences, the curving coast of Cape Elizabeth, and the shoreless ocean, aro 
enjoyed. 

* Cushing's Island is four M. from the city (frequent steamers), and 
is the outermost of the islands in this direction, facing the ocean. The 
* Ottawa House is the only one on the island, which covers 250 acres, and 
is composed of high bluffs. Tliis hotel is a favorite resort for Canadians, 
who are usually in the majority here. The building is of brick, and 
accommodates 150 guests, at $14-18.00 a week. The view from the 
cupola of the Ottawa House (for patrons only) is beautiful, including on 
one side the lovely islets of Casco Bay, then the level-horizoned ocean, 
the ship channel, and the bold shores of Cape Elizabeth. But the view 
over the harbor towards and including Portland is the most pleasing. 
The forts are seen in the foreground, Peak's Island on the r., and in the 



BOSTON TO PORTLAND. Route 38. 275 

remote N. W., if the day is clear, the White Mts. are visible. Sandy 
beaches for bathing, and rocks projecting in deep water, for fishing, lie 
along the sliore. An embowered path leads along the ridge to the npper 
end of tlie island, passing tliroiigh a fine cedar forest. Tlie walk ends on 
the verge of a loft}^ precipice of storm-beaten rock (called White Head), 
commanding fine views of the ocean, the bay, and the city. 

Steamers run almost daily in the summer up the length of Casco Bay, 
to Harpswell, a quiet old peninsular town rendered classic by Mrs. 
Stowe's romance, " The Pearl of Orr's Island," and hy Whittier's poem, 
"The Dead Ship of Harpswell." There are several pleasant summer 
boarding-houses at this point. 

38. Boston to Portland. 

By the Boston and Maine Railroad. —Boston to Portland, 115 M, ; fare $3.00. 

After leaving tlie terminal station on Hayniarket Square, Boston, the 
line crosses tlie Charles River, passes over Prison Point, in Charlestown, 
stops before the crossings of the Fitchburg and the Eastern Railroads, 
and reaches Somerville station. On Winter Hill, in this town, the cap- 
tive army of Burgoyne was cantoned for many months. The city of 
Somerville was named in honor of Richard Somers, a brave naval officer, 
who was killed in the Tripolitan War. Leaving Charlestown Heights 
on the r., the line crosses the broad Mystic River, and stops at E, 
Medford, whence a branch line runs to Medford, a busy village interested 
in ship-building and other profitable industries. Tufts College, a flourish - 
ing institution under the care of the Universalist Church, is near Medford, 
and on Ship St. is a solid and low-windoAved brick house that was built 
by Gov. Cradock's men in 1634. 

Station, Maiden (Maiden House, Pratt's Hotel), the old " Mystic Side," 
and now an inq^ortant manufacturing village near the clustering hills 
which Avere likened by President Dwight to " the sweeping flourishes of a 
graceful penman." 

Adoniram Judson, the apostle of Burmah, was born at Maiden in 1788, 
He spent 40 years in and near Rangoon, translated the Bible and other 
books into Burmese, and although he was at times chained and impris- 
oned, he succeeded in building up a powerful church with thousands of 
members. 

Stations, Wyoming and Melrose, pleasant suburban villages of recent 
origin. Spot Pond, a favorite summer-day's resort, is less than 2 M. W. 
of Wyoming. Stoneham station is 2 M. E. of the village of Stoneham 
(Central House), to which it is joined by a horse-railroad. Stoneham has 
22 shoe factories, and does a business of about $ 3,000,000 a year. The 
main Une next passes Greenwood, then runs along Crystal Lake (on the 



276 Route 38. WAKEFIELD TO NEWBURYPORT. 

1.), and stops at Wakefield Junction, whence a branch linedivei^es to the 
E., reaching Salem by way of Lynnfield and Peabody. 

Wakefield to Newhuryport. 

A branch railroad runs from Wakefield Junction to Newburyport in 30 
M. Leaving the elegant mansion and grounds of Cyrus Wakefield, and 
Wakefield Hall, his princely gift to the town, on the 1., and the extensive 
rattan-works on the r., the branch line soon crosses the Saugus River, and 
enters Essex County. Stations, Lynnfield Centre, W. Danvers (Avhere 
the Salem and Lowell Railroad is crossed), and Danvers. The latter is an 
ancient town, which was settled before the middle of the 17th century. 
The witchcraft delusion arose here in 1692, and in 1774 a strong British 
force was cantoned on Danvers Plains, in order to overawe Essex County. 
The town is now dependent on large shoe manufactories, with carpet- 
works and a rolUng-mill. The train soon ci'osses the Salem and Lawrence 
Railroad, and runs N. through the thinly settled towns of Central Essex. 
Station, Topsfield (Topsfield House), settled in 1639, on the scanty in- 
tervales along the Ipswich River. Boxford, a sterile town, was incor- 
porated in 1686, and has two box -factories. Station, Georgetown (Pen- 
tucket House), a bright and busy village E. of the railroad, with consid- 
eral)le manufactories of boots, shoes, and carriages. George Peabody, 
the eminent philanthropist, was employed in this town in his younger 
days (1812-13), and has evinced his pleasant memories of it by present- 
ing to Georgetown a fine public library and fund. The Memorial Church 
is a monument of his filial regard. S. W. of the village is Bald Pate, the 
highest hill in Essex. 

A branch railroad runs N. W. from Georgetown through the towns of 
Groveland and Bradford, to the city of Haverhill (7^ M.). 

The train crosses the towix of Newbury, and in 9 M. from Georgetown 
reaches Newburyport (see Route 37). 

Wakefield was settled in 1G39, and was for over two centuries known as 
S. Reading. In 1868 it assumed its present name in honor of a wealthy 
citizen who had greatly benefited it. Cyrus Wakefield introduced the 
rattan-working industi-y into this country, and liad large factories here. 
Wakefield has 5,319 inhabitants, 3 papers, 6 churches, a public-library, a 
costly town-hall, a memorial hall (to 17 dead soldiers), and shoe-factories. 

Passing Lake Qiianapowitt (on the r.), the train reaches Reading, 
devoted to the manufacture of shoes, cabinet-ware, organs, &c. Stations, 
Wilmington, Wilmington Junction (where the Salem and Lowell Railroad 
crosses the present route), Ballardvale (with factories making files, Bris- 
tol polish, and fiannels), and Andover {Elm House ; Mansion House). 
This ancient academic town was settled about 1643, on the Indian domain 
of Cochichewick, which was bought from the natives for §26.64 and a 



ANDOVER. Route 38. 277 

coat. Andover has some active manufactures, but is chiefly famed for its 
schools. Tlie Puucliard High School is a local institution of high stand- 
ing. Phillii:)S Academy occupies a fine building on the hill, and is of wide 
reputation. It was endowed by the Phillips family, in 1778, with $ 85,000 
and considerable landed estates, and has since occi^pied a prominent posi- 
tion. The Abbot Female Seminary is an old and famous school for young 
ladies. The Theological Seminary of the Congregational Church was 
founded about 1808, and soon after received liberal endowments (•$ 120,000 
from Samuel Abljot and $ 250,000 from William Bartlett). This insti- 
tution has long been "the school of the prophets" for the sect to wliich 
it belongs, and has prepared its ablest divines for their work. Up to 1871 
it had graduated 2,491 men, and in 1876 it had 7 professors and 54 
students. It is under the Presidency of E. A. Park, D. D., a prominent 
divine, who is also the editor of the learned quarterly, the Bibliotheca 
Sacra, which is published here. Its buildings are very plain, causing the 
visitor to wonder "if orthodox angels have not lifted up old Harvard and 
Massachusetts Halls, and carried them by night from Cambridge to 
Andover Hill." But the situation is one of extreme beauty, and the 
grounds are quiet and abounding in trees. In front of the line of build- 
ings is a long walk shaded by four lines of trees, near whose ujiper end is 
Brechin Hall, a handsome building of local stone, which contains a library 
of al)Out 30,000 volumes, and a few curiosities. A copy of Eliot's Indian 
Bible, a superb copy of the Codex Sinaiticus, and various trophies from 
the mission fields are to be seen here. 

John and Peter Smith came to Audover from Brechin, in Scotland, many years 
ago, and amassed large fortunes. They built and gave Brechin Hall to the 
Seminary, and erected noble schools in their native Brechin, on a hill which they 
caused to be named Andover Hill. 

S. of the grounds, and near the Mansion House, is the old home of 
Leonard Woods, D. D., an eminent Calvinistic theologian, who taught in 
the Seminary, 1808-46, meanwhile holding controversies with the Uni- 
tarians on one side, the Episcopalians on the other, and the Baptists and 
Swedeuborgians. The Printery and several dormitory buildings are on 
streets near by. A beautiful chapel has lately been built. 

Andover was so named because its first settlers came from Andover in 
England. It supported 100 men in the Continental Army. Elizabeth 
Stuart Phelps, authoress of "Sunny Side," &c., and her daughter, E. S. 
Phelps, authoress of " Gates Ajar," &c., were born here. 

There are pretty ponds in Andover, and the valley of the Shawshine 
River has some pleasant rural scenery, while the view from Andover Hill 
(at sunset especially) is highly praised. Many summer visitors stay here, 
partly attracted by the fine society. 

After leaving Andover, the train arrives at S. Lawrence, opposite the 
city of Lawrence. Some of the through trains cross the river and enter 



278 Route 3S. LAWREXCE. 

the city, Avliile otlicrs do not, but proceed down the r. bank of the river to 
llaverliill. It is but a few minutes' walk over the Merrimac River, while 
from the bridge the traveller gets views of the great dam (on the 1.) and of 
the long line of factories (on the r, and front). 

Lawrence. 

Hotels.— * Franklin House, a small but elegantly appointed hotel opposite 
the 11. H. Wtation, §2. 50 a day ; Essex Hotel. 

This city was fouuded by the Essex Company in 1844, and contained, 
in 1845, 100, and in 1847, 3,000 inhabitants. A powerful stone dam was 
built across the river, giving a fall of 28 ft. and a water-power equal to 
10,000 horse-power. A canal 1 M. long carries the water along the line 
of mills, parallel with the river and 400 ft, from it, and another long canal 
is exit on the S. bank. The city water-supply was recently introduced, 
and cost $1,240,000. The Merrimac River is 1,000 ft. wide here, and 
the fall over the dam has a beautiful effect. The city has 2 banks and 2 
savings-banks, 56 schools, a library, and a park on Prospect Hill. S. 
Lmorence is a prosperous manufacturing suburb across the Merrimac. 

The chief nianufactories are the immense and imposing Pacific Mills, with 
140,000 spindles, 4,000 looms, §2,500,000 capital, and 2,400 female and 1,200 male 
operatives, making calicoes, lawns, and dress-goods ; the Washington Mills, 
62,000 spindles, 1,300 looms, and 2,600 operatives, making cotton and woollen 
goods, Lvoadeloths, doeskins, shawls, and cambrics ; the Atlantic Cotton Mills, 
employing 1,400 persons ; the Everett Mills, 1,000 operatives, making cotton and 
woollen goods ; the Pemberton Mills, 800 operatives ; the Ailingtou Woollen 
Mills ; the Lawrence Duck Co., Russell Paper Co., Lawrence File and Spindle 
Works, Lawrence Lumber Co. , etc. 

Lawrence (35,000 inhabitants) is one of the three capitals of Essex Co., 
and is the most beautiful of the manufacturing cities of New England. 
The mills are separated from the city by the canal, and their great depen- 
dent boarding-houses are isolated by a wide green. The city has 18 
churches, 5 Masonic lodges, 4 lodges of Odd Fellows, 3 weekly and 2 daily 
newspapers. The Common is a fine green square, with abiuidance of 
trees, having on its N. side the handsome Oliver High School and the 
Central Cong. Church. On the E. is the 1st Unitarian and Grace Church 
(Ellis. ), while on the S. are the elegant city and county buildings. In the 
base of the tower of the City Hall are two huge cannon-balls which were 
fired from the iron-clad fleet on the rebellious city of Charleston. The 
*' Lawrence American " is the leading daily paper of Essex Co. The 
city has good public libraries, several of which pertain to the cot- 
ton-mills. The valuation of Lawrence in the year 1875 was $ 23,000,000. 
On a street leading W. from the Common is the stately and elegant 
church of St. Mary (Roman Catholic) in the purest of the simpler 
forais of Gothic architecture. This church was six years in building, and 
is of a handsome gray stone, with interior arches, columns, and a lofty 
clere-story and spire of the same material. In its vicinity are several 



HAVERHILL. Route SS. 279 

Catholic institutions, which are powerful and highly beneficent in their 
workings among the factory populations. 

The city was named from Abbot Lawrence, a wealthy and philanthropic Boston 
merchant, who was one of its founders. He was a member of Congress for 5 years, 
Minister to England 1849 - 1852, and endowed the Lawrence Scientific School (at 
Cambridge) with S 100,000. His son was Consul-General to Italy, 1862 - 9, and his 
brotlier Amos was eminent for his generosity, having given $4-500,000 for chari- 
table, educational, and religious works. 

One of the most terrible accidents in American history took place here Jan. 10, 
1800, when the Peraberton Mills fell, on ac(Xiunt of thin walls and insufficient sup- 
ports, and caught fire soon after, burning alive many who had been caught in tlio 
falling ruins. 525 persons were killed and wounded on that dreadful day. 

The Lowell and Lawrence Division of the Boston and Lowell R. R. runs from 
Lawrence to Lowell, thi'ough the towns of Andover and Tewksbury. There are 4 
trains each way daily, in 4f) minutes. Distance, 13 M. ; fare, 40 c. 

The Manchester and Lawrence R. R. runs N. W. to Manchester, N. H., in 70 
minutes. Distance, 26 M. ; fare, 80 c. This line passes through Mcthucn, a flourish- 
ing highland village near the Falls of the Spigot River. About .3 M. beyond Law- 
rence tlie line enters the State of New Hampshire. Stations, Salem and Windham. 
The latter village is2.V M. S. of the station. This town has a few large ponds, and 
Glebe Mt. (1,800 ft. high). Station, Derry (stages to village 2 M. E.), famous for 
ai>])les. 200 city people spend the summer among the quiet farms in this 

town. (Sanders' Hotel). 

Stations, Wilson's and Londonderry (stages to the village, 2 M. S.). This town 
was settled in 1719 by a colony of Scotch Presbyterians, from Ulster Co., L-eland, 
ami was named for the old country Londonderry, in whose long and terrible siege 
several of the iminigrants had been engaged. Before their settlement the district 
was called Nutfield^ from the abundance of its nut-trees. On the first day of their 
arrival, the settlers collected under a great oak-tree, and heard a sermon from 
their pastor, after which they Ijegan to build their cabins. Although on the 
remote frontiers, the town was never molested by the Franco-Indian marauders, 
commands to that effect having been issued by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, Gov.- 
Gen. of Canada, who had lieen a classmate at college with McGregore, the Lon- 
donderry pastor. The first American resistance to Gen. Gage's troops was when 
a detachment marched from Boston to this place (46 M.) and captured several 
deserters from the British line regiments. The townsmen rose, and pursued the 
troops, and forced them to release their prisoners, Avho became lesidents of Lon- 
donderry. Colonels Reed, McCleary, and Gregg, and Gen. Stark (victor at Ben- 
nington), all of the Continental Army, were born here. The Scotch-Irish colo- 
nists introduced the potato, the foot-wheel, and the loom into New England. 6 
I\I. bevond Londonderry Station the line enters the city of Manchester (see 
lionte'29). 

The Lawrence Branch (of the Eastern R. R.) nms from Lawrence S. E. to Salem. 

The main line of the Boston and Maine Railroad follows (beyond Law- 
rence) the r. bank of the Merrimac River for 10 M., to the city of Haver- 
hill, passing N, Aiidover and Bradford. 

Haverhill {Eagle House, $7-14 a week) is a handsome city, built on 
hills which slope down to the Merrimac River, which is navigable to this 
point (18 miles from the sea). In 1830 it had 3,912 inhabitants, and now 
has 20,000. The principal business of the place is the manufacture of 
shoes, in which it is second only to Lynn. In 1869, 6,000 persons were 
here employed in this industry, and over 5,000,000 pairs of shoes were 
made. Woollens, hats, and clothing are also manufactured. 

Haverhill has 19 churches, two or three of which are quite handsome. 
The Public Library has a costly building, adorned and frescoed, with 
20,000 volumes and a statuary hall. The city has 5 new.spapers and a 
Masonic temple. 



280 Route 38. EXETER. 

The new City Hall (on IMain St.) is an imposing buiMinp;, well a'lapted 
for the civic olFices. From Golden Kill tliere is a fine view of tlie river 
and city, and of the ancient vilhige of Bradford (famed for its academy 
for girls, now occupying extensive buildings on a far-viewing hill. This 
academy was foimded in 1803, and was a nursery cf missionaiies' wives, — 
Harriet Newell, Mrs. Judson, and others). 1 M. N. E. of Haverhill, and 
in its rapidly extending suburbs, is the pretty Lake Kenoza, surrounded 
by hills. A neat stone club-house has been built on its banks by some 
Haverhill gentlemen. This lake was named, and has been written of, by 
tlie poet Whittier, whose birthplace (1807) near its shore (the scene of 
" Snowboun't ") still stands. 

A tine Soldiers' Monumtnt, with a statue of a U. S. soldier, stands on Main 
St. (for ISl dead). Also a bronze statue, with bas-i*eliefs, of Mrs. Dustan. 

Gen. Moses Hazen, born at Haverhill in 1733. was an officer in the campaigns 
of Crown Point, Louisburg, and Quebec, and conuuanded the 2d Canadian Con- 
tinental Reg. (" Congress's Own ") from 177G to 1781. He tlien moved to Ver- 
mont, and one of his descendants was Gen. W. B liazen, who long fou; ht the 
Comanches, then commanded a brigade (1861 - 2) at the battles of iShiloh, Corinth, 
8tone River, Chickaniauga, and Mission Ridge. In Sherman's march to the .sea, 
he connnanded tlie 2d division of the 15th corps, with which he stormed Fort 
McAllister, at Savannah, Dec. 18, 1864 

Haverhill was .settled in 1(541, on the Indian domain of Pentucket, bj^ a cf)]ony 
led by Rev. Jolin Ward, wiiocame from H.-iverliillin England. The village ehiirch 
Avas seientiflcally fortified, but the town lost many men during Queen Aiuie's War. 
In 1698 the Indians took Mrs. Hannah Duston, ^v■ith hei' nurse and her child (G 
days old). The latter tliey nun-(lered, and, after a long inareli through the forests, 
told the women that they were to be foreed to run the gauntlet when they readied 
the village. That night Mis. Duston, with the lUU'se and a young English boy. 
arose silently and killed 10 of the 12 Indians, scalped them, and dropped down 
the river in a bark canoe to Haverhill. In 1708 the village was attacked by 250 
French and Indians, ami 40 of its peopile were killed and captured. 

The river-road to Newbnry]iort runs by the side of the Jlerrimac, through a 
pictures([ue succession of hill-towns. Daily stages leave Ha\erhill for Newbury- 
p<nt, W. Amesbury, and Hampstead. 

A railroad runs from Haverhill to Newburyport via Georgetown, in 16 M. 5 
trains daily are run each way, in 40-60 minutes. 

After leaving Haverhill the main line runs N. into New Hampshire, 
Stations, AtJdnson (stage to Hampstead), Plaistow (stages to Sandown 
and Danville), Neivton, and E. Kingston (stage to Kingston). These are all 
quiet fanning toAAms in Rockingham County, N. H. Station, Exeter (good 
restaurant in the station; Gorham Hall; American House), a pretty 
village of 3,437 inhabitants, at the head of nav'gafon on Exeter River. 
Exeter was founded by Rev. John Wlieelwright, who had been banished 
from Mass. for the heresy of Antinomianism. He bought this land in the 
wilderness from the Indians, but when it was annexed to Essex Co., 
Mass., in 1642, he was obliged to go into more distant exile. The In- 
dians about Squaniscott Falls migrated to the vicinity of Troy (on the 
Hudson) in 1672, but other and fiercer tribes menaced the village, and 
nearly 40 of the people were killed ami captui'cd during the later Indian 
wars. 38 men of Exeter died in the Continental Army. In 1781, Hon. 



EXETER. , Route 3S. 281 

John Phillip?, foimderl Phillips Academy, and endowed it with .$ 134,000. 

Benjamin Alibot, LL. D., was preceptor of the Academy from 17S8 to 

1838, and Dr. Giileon L. Soiile was preceptor from 1838 to 1873. 

Among the distinguished men who have been prepared for college here are John 
Pickering, the jurist and philologist ; Abiol Abbot ; J. IS. Jiuckminster, the \m\)\x- 
lar divine ; James Walker, the Unitiirian theologian ; Nathan Lord, U. D., Presi- 
dent of Dartmouth College, 1828 -G3; A. H. Everett, LL. D., the accomplished 
diplomatist (to Belgium, Spain, and China) ; Nathan Hale, LL. 1)., the journalist ; 
Leverett tSaltonstall, LL. D. ; J. G. Cogswell, LL. D., of the Astor Library ; 
T. W. Dorr, the R. L insurgent Governor ; J. P. Cushing, President of Hampdcn- 
Sidney College, Va., 1821-36; Theodore Lyman, the philanthropist; Alplicus 
Felch, Senator from Michigan, 1847-53; Charles Paine, of Vt. ; John P. Hale, 
one of the first antislavery senators (from N. H., 1847-53, and 1855-65); the 
eminent historians, Richard Hildrebh, Jared Sparks, and George Bancroft ; Ed- 
ward Everett, the statesman and orator ; Daniel Webster ; and Lewis Cass, who 
was born at Exeter in 1782. An otticer through the War of 1812, Governor of 
Michigan, 1813-31, Secretary of War under Jackson, Minister to France, lS3(j- 
42, Cass came near being elected President of the U. S. in 1S48. receiving 137 elec- 
toral votes to 163 given for Gen. Taylor. He was U. S. Senator, 1845-8, and 
1851-7, and from 1857 to Dec, 1860, was Secretary of State. His policy was 
steadily proslavery, but lie favored thenation.al goveriiuient during tlie Relieliion. 
He died in 1866, at Detroit, where 54 years before he had been made prisoner by 
tiie British (with the whole Army of the Northwest) while a captain in the 3d 
Ohio Regiment. 

Exeter is a beautiful and elm-shaded village in a level farming-town, 
aud has the county buildings, 8 churches, 3 banks, a newspajier, a high- 
school, several prosperous factories (cottons, woollens, paper, brass, 
machinery, etc.), and many handsome residences. It is 10 M. from Rye 
Reach, and 9 from Hampton. Phillips Academy has neat modern build- 
ings, on a campus adorned with veneralde elms. It has about 200 stu- 
dents, and has educated over 4,000. The Rnhinson Female Semiiuiri/ is also 
in the village, and has a stately building and a rich endowment, provided 
by Wm. Robinson. It was opened in 1869, and has about 240 students. 

Stages run from Exeter to Kensington, Amesbnry, Salisbury, and Newburj^iort 
(see Route 37) ; to Kingston, Sandown, Brentwood, Chester, and Fremont, tri- 
weekly ; and to Hampton Beach (see Route 37) semi-daily in summer and Sep- 
teni ber. 

Stations, S. Newmarket, and Neimnarket Junction (restaurant), where 
the Concord and Portsmouth track crosses the present route, '^kf^- 
Taa,x\:it {Washington House; Newmarket House) is a village containing 
cotton and lumber-mills. 

Tri-weekly stages run from Newmarket to Lee, Nottingham, Northwood, 
Epsom, Chichester, and Concord. 

Station, Durham, the old Oyster River settlement, many of whose people 
were killed in various Indian raids diaring King Philip's War. In 1695, 
the village was carried by assault, though defended by 12 garrison -houses, 
and nearly 100 of its people were killed or captured. The town is now 
knov.'n for its excellent hay-crops, which are obtained from the deep 
argillaceous loam along the Oyster River. Over 1,000 tons are exported 
annually. Stations, Madbury, and Dover {Avierican House ; Neio Hamp' 



282 Route 38. DOVER. 

shire House), a busy little mamrfacturing city at the lower falls of the 
Cocheco River. Dover has over 9,000 inhabitants, 3 banks, 11 churches, 
4 weekly papers, and extensive niamifactories. The Cocheco Mills em- 
ploy 1,000 hands and .50,000 spindles, with a capital of $ 1,300,000, and 
make 11,000,000 yards of cotton cloths yearly. The Cocheco Print 
Works, with 240 hands, print 16,000,000 yards yearly, and there are 
other branches of industry, the chief of which is the shoe business, in 
which 12 firms are engaged. Pretty views are obtained from the hills 
near the city, and the City Hall is a handsome structure. 

Dover is the oldest pl;i(;e in the State, having been settled in the spring of 
1623, on the point of land at the continence of the Newichawannick and Bel- 
lamy Rivers (4 M. S. E. of the city). The pioneer colony was coin})osed of Eins- 
copalians sent over by the Laconia Company, and they had much trouble with 
the Mass. Puritans. In 1641, Dover was annexed by Mass., and in 1679 was re- 
turned to N. H. The people had a man to "beate the drumme on Lord's days to 
give notice for the time of meeting " until 1665, when they built "a Terrett upon 
the meitting house for to hang the Bell." In 1657 they "chose by voet a Seoell- 
master," and in 1653 they built the meeting-house " 40 foote longe and 26 foote 
wide." Major Walderne settled on the present site of the city, and built a strong 
garrison-house. Here he was visited in 1676, during a time when peace reigned 
in this region, by 400 Indians, two companies of troops being with him. He won 
the conhdence of the Indians, and arranged a sham-fight between them and the 
colonial soldiers. When their guns were discharged the troops rushed in and dis- 
armed tluim, after which 200 were sent to Boston as prisoners, Several of these 
were executed on Boston Common, and the remainder were sold into slavery in 
the West Indies. 13 years later a powerful Indian force seized Dover by niglit, 
and destroyed 4 garrisons, killing 23 and capturing 29 persons. Walderne, then 
74 years old, and commander of the forces of N. H., they captured, and placed 
in a chair on a table within his own hall, where they slowly slashed him to death.. 
The town was the object of other disastrous attacks during the Indian wars, but 
was never abandoned by its intrepid people. 

Tri-weekly stages run from Dover to Barrington and Strafford (Bow Lake 
House), near Bow Lake (which covers 1,625 acres), and the Blue Hills. 

Dover to Lake Winnepesaiilcee. 

The Dover and Winnepesaukee Railroad runs to Alton Bay (28J M). Stations, 
Pickering's, and Gonic (with stages running to Barrington, Strafford, and Bain- 
stead). At Rochester (see page 213) connections are made with tlie Portsmouth, 
Great Falls, and Conway R. R., and with the Portland and Rochester R. R. 
Stations, Place's, and Farmington {Elm House), a shoe-manufacturing village near 
the Blue Hills, or Frost Mts. From the loftiest of these hills, Mt. Mouadnock, 
the White Mts., and the ocean may l)e seen on a clear day. 

Henry Wilson was born at Farmington in 1812. He was educated with money 
earned by his own laboi-, and settled at Natick (Mass.) in 1838, as a shoemaker. 
Declaring himself an uncompromising foe of negro slavery, his abilities soon won 
him honorable fame in the State politics, and after rising from one oflice to an- 
other for 15 years, he was chosen U. S. Senator in 1855. In 1872 he was elected 
Vice-President of the U. S. His most distinguished senatorial labors were in 
connection with the antislavery movement and the Kansas troubles, emancipa- 
tion, reconstruction, and the conduct of the war. 

After leaving Farmington the line passes three rural stations, and stops at Al- 
ton Bay, on Lake Winnepesaukee. The Bay View House is located here ()? 10.00 
a week and upwards), and has a large livery stable attached, with pleasant drives 
ill the vicinity. (See page 218). 

Stages run from Alton to the three villages (North, Centre, and Parade) of 
Banis'tead ; to Pittsfield, 15 M ; to Lake Village and Laconia, 18-20 M. ; and to 
Wolfboro, 10 M. 



OLD ORCHARD BEACH. Route 3S. 283 

The fine iron steamer, " Mt. Washington," leaves Alton Bay on arrival of the 
iraius, twice daily (in summer), for the villages on the lalce. The distance to 
Centre Harbor is 30 M. (see Route 32). 

The first station beyond Dover, on the main line, is RoUinsford, Avhence 
a branch track runs (in 3 M.) to the factories at Great Falls. Station, 
Salmon Falls (Jones House), the seat of two cotton-mills. 

Alter passing N. Btvwick (where tlie Eastern K. K. is crossed), Wells is 
reached. The station is 1 M. from Wells Beach (see p. 2G8), one of the best 
of tlie Maine beaches. From Kennebunk a branch railroad runs 5 M E. to 
Kennebunkport {Parker House, $9-15 a week), a quaint old village, 

1 M. from the mouth of the Mousam River. ^ M. out, on Cape Arundel, 
i-^ the great * Ocean-Bluff House (^JOO guests), with admirable sea-views 
and facilities for bathing, boating, and fishing. In and near the village 
are the Glen, Riverside, Beach, Granite-State, Cliff, Seaside, Sea-View, 
and other hotels ($7-15 a week). The long beaches and sea-repelling 
cliff's of this promontory form noble combinations of scenery, and a 
summer-village has been erected here. The cool air and facilities for 
boating, bathing, and fishing have made this a favorite resort. The 
train crosses the Saco River between the busy manufacturing cities of 
Bi(hleford and Saco, and bears away for 4 M. to Old Orchard Beach.^ 
(* Old Orchard House, 400 guests, $ 14- 25.00 a week, — telegraph, band, 
and ball and reading rooms in the house ; * Ocean House, near the former, 
and of great extent ; the Gorham and the Montreal Houses are less ex- 
pensive). The track runs between the great hotels (on the 1.) and the 
beach, and the station is very comraodiously situated. Stages run from 
the beach to the Saco station on Route 37. This beach, which has been 
called the finest in New England, extends from the Saco River to Pine 
Point, at the mouth of Scarborough River, a distance of 10 M., with a 
breadth (at low water) of 300 ft. The sand is very hard and smooth, and 
affords an admirable drive-way, while from the absence of undertow, the 
surf-bathing is perfectly safe. Near the hotels is a beautiful forest-park 
of 30 acres, with pleasant paths, arbors, and rustic adornments. About 

2 M. distant, on Foxwell's Brook, is a pictiiresque waterfall, 60 ft. high. 
The beach derives its name from an ancient orchard of apple-trees, the 
last of which died before the Revolution. Old Orchard is probably the 
most fashionable of the seaside resorts E. of Hampton and Rye, if not of 
all E. of Swampscott. 

5| M, from Old Orchard is Scarborough station, which is about 3 M. 

from Scarborough Beach. The train now runs over Cape Elizabeth, 

crosses Fore River on a long and costly bridge, and enters Portland. 

1 The hotels at Old Orchard were dcvastnti-d by tire in 1S75-0. In tlie .season 
of 1S76 0])etied the new *01d Orchard House (-300 guests ; $3-3.50 a day\ 
4 stories high, 550 ft. long, with gas, hot and cold water, steam fire-i>nmps, bil- 
liards, bowling, nmsic, etc. The "smaller hotels are tlie Fiske, St. Cloud, Adams, 
and Sans Sonei (100 guests eacli), the Sea-Shore and the Central ($1.50-2.50 a 
d:i\ \ .\ laihuad is being buill lioni Blue I'uiut to Saco T'eiry. 



284 Route 39. LAKE SEBAGO. 



39. Portland to the White Mts. 

stations. — Portland to B. & M. Transfer, 5 M. ; Westbrook, 11 ; S. W'iiul- 
liani, V^ : White Rock, 17 : 8ebago Lake, L'4.V ; Steep Falls, 32; Baldwin. Sa.V ; 
W. Baldwin, 36; Hiram Bridge, -13; Brownfield, 49; Fryeburg, 55 ; Conway 
Centre. 60 : N. Conway, 63 ; Glen Station. 66 ; Upper Bartlett, 72 ; Beniis, 7S ; 
Crawford House, 87 ; Fabvan, 5>1 ; Twin Mountain, 95 ; Betldelieni, 101 ; Wing 
lload, 105 ; Whitetield, 109 ; Scott's MiUs, 112 ; Lunenburg, 114. 



The train leaves the union station in Portland under Branihall Hill, and 
passes out to Westbrook (in a tovvii of about 4,000 inhabitants), with 
several villages in which are manufactured cotton cloths, twine, wire, 
and iron goods, with large quantities of paper. Immense quantities 
of canned goods are prepared here, and the total manufactures of West- 
brook amount to $ 3,500,000 yearly. Station, S. Windham, in a town 
which was settled in 1737 and guarded by a Mass. fort. The Oriental 
Powder Works are located here, and the Mallison Falls on the Presump- 
scott River are S. of the village. Stations, White Rock, and Sebago 
Lake, whence steamers leave for Harrison. 

Lake Sebago 

is 14 M. long by 11 M. wide, and has a depth, in some parts, of 400 ft. 
6 towns are on its shores, and others are located on the connecting lakes 
to the N. The steamers leave Pavilion Bay (at Lake Sebago station) and 
soon pass (on the r. ) Indian Island, and Frye's Island, with 1,000 acres of 
forest. When the liroader part of the lake is gained, "to the N. E., 
Rattlesnake Mt. is seen ; and in the same direction, near the lake, is the 
boyhood home of Nathaniel Hawthorne. We also pass on our r. the 14 
Dingley Islands. The scenery on the W. is wilder and more rugged. 
Saddleback Mt., in Baldwin, is plainly visible, fi-om which the eye roams 
N. E., beyond the Great Bay, over the Sebago hills and farms and 
forests. Still farther N. is Peaked Mt., beyond which the view extends 
N. to Mt. Kiarsarge (Pequawket), so blue and cold in the hazy distance, 
while the ^Vliite Hills may be distinctly seen if the day is tolerably clear. " 
Tlie passage across Sebago (" a stretch of water") occupies one hour, after 
which the steamer enters the rapid and devious Songo River. " It is l)nt 
2^ M., as the crow flies, to the head of the river, and yet we must sail 6 M. 
and make 27 turns." Picturesque contrasts of farm and forest, granit(3 
ledge and intervale, make the voyage on these narrow waters pleasant and 
novel. 5 M. from Sebago tlie steamer enters a lock at the confluence of 
Crooked or Pequawket River, which rises about 35 M. N. in the to\\ii of 
Albany. After rising several feet in the lock, the steamer passes N. into 
the Bay of Naples, near the head of which is Naples {Elm House), a small 



i 



FRYEBURG. Route 39. 285 

village in a farming to-wn. Before stopping at this place, the steamer 
passes through a drawbridge, and, after leaving it, it steams out on Long 
Lake, This is a river-like expanse of water 12 - 14 M. long and less than 
2 M. wide. 9 M. from Naples the boat stops at Bridgton, whence a stage 
runs 1 M. W. to Bridgton Centre {Bridgton Rmise ; Cumberland House). 
Tliis is an important manufacturing village, with a weekly paper, a 
savings-bank, and three churches, in a town originally called Pondicherry, 
from the abundance of small ponds and wild cherries found there. This 
village has become somewhat of a summer resort in a quiet way, from its 
vicinity to the lake and to picturesque hill-scenery. The next stopping- 
place on the lake is N. Bridgton {Lake House). 

To the N. is Waterford, the birthplace of Artemas Ward, Major J;ick 
Downing, and Cyrus Hamlin, a very picturesque region of lakes and 
mountains, with the Waterford House, Pine-Grove House, Bear-Mt. House, 
and otlier siunmcr-resorts, and the Maine Hygienic Institute, Stages lipiice 
dailv to Harrison, Bridgton, and Norway (10 M.). Harrison {Elm House) 
IS the end of the steamboat-route. 

The Bridfjton and Saco River R. R. is a new narrow-gauge route from 
Bridgton Junction, beyond W. Baldwin (on the P. & 0. R, R,) to Bridg- 
ton (16 M.; 1 hr,). 

After leaving the Lalce Sebago Station, the train passes the stations, 
Richrille and Stee2J Falls, in the town of Standish, Avhich was grantetl to 
and settlecf*by veterans of the Louisburg campaigns, and named after the 
Pilgrim captain. Beyond Steep Falls, the line follows the valley of the 
Saco, and passes through the town of Baldwin (stations, Baldvnn and W. 
Baldwin). The Great Falls of the Saco are seen from the train beyond 
W. Baldwin, near which the Ossii:)ee River meets the Saco. The river 
falls 72 ft. in several successive pitches. The train now enters the town 
of Hiram, on narrow intervales along the Saco, and stops at Hiram Bridge 
( ML Cutler House). As the train crosses the old pine-plains of Hiram 
and enters Brownfield, occasional glimpses are caught of Mt. Pleasant, a 
lung, isolated ridge, over 2,0UU ft. higli, commanding a noble view i.f 
the White Mts. and the lake-countr}' of W. Maine. On its crest is tiie 
Mt.-Pleasant House (75 guests; f 12 a week), a commodious hotel reached 
by stage from Bridgton (10 M.). The principal view is to the N. W. along 
the clustering peaks of the White Mts. Station, Brownfield {Uberiy 
House), whose farm-houses admit many summer visitors, Burnt Meadow^ 
ad Frost Mts. being the principal objects of interest. Stages leave daily 
fi>r Denmark. 

The plains along the river grow wider and more productive, as the 
train passes on to Fryeburg {Oxford House), a pretty village "on a 
broad, level plain, slightly elevated above the intervales of the Saco, 
which encloses it in one of its huge fohis." Many summer visitors rest 
at the comfortable old hotel, while others are quartered in the boarding- 



286 Route 39. FRYEBURG. 

houses which are fotmd in the vilLage. The intervales of Fryehurg are 
noted for their richness and beauty, and contain nearly 10,000 acres which 
are annually overflowed and fertilized by the Saco. On these meadows is 
the winter home of large droves of cattle who graze on the mountains 
during the summer. There are several thousand acres of forest in the 
town and it is claimed tliat Fryeburg has more standing timber now than 
it had 40 years ago. The principal points for excursions are Stark's Hill 
(500 ft. high), Jockey Cap, and Pine Hill, eminences near the village, which 
command panoramic views of the distant White Mts. and of Chocorna. 
Mt. Pleasant is 9 M. to the E., and is often visited for the sake of its 
noble ovei'-view, and Lovewell's Pond is near the village (by the Pine 
Street road). 

Capt. John Lovewell, the son of an ensign in Cromwell's Puritan army, was an able 
partisan olhcerof the colonies. In April, 1725, he led 46 men from the Mass. fron- 
tier towns by a long and arduous march into tlie heart of the Pecjuawket countiy. 
After marching over 100 M., they reached Saco (now Lovewell s) Pond witli 34 
men, and here they encanijied for 36 hours, near the chief village of the Indians. 
On Saturday, May G, while they were assembled around the chajilain on tlie 
beach, and ere the morning devotions had been linished, a gun was heard an<l an 
Indian was seen watching them. They left theii- packs near the pond, and ad- 
vanced toward the intervales, but met an Indian in the forest who shot and mor- 
tally wounded Lovewell, tliough his own death followed quickly. Meantime the 
Sachem Paugus and 80 warriors had found and counted the packs and laid an 
ambuscade near them, which completely entra})})ed the Americans on their 
return. The magnanimous Paugus ordered his men to fire over the heads of the 
invaders, and then to bind them with ropes. With horrid yells the Indians leaped 
forth and asked Lovewell if lie would have quarter. " Only at th^ muzzles of 
your guns ! " shouted tlie brave captain, and led his men against the unprepared 
enemy. They drove the Indians some rods, but were repulsed by a fierce counter- 
charge, in which Lovewell and 8 of his men were killed. Tlieu the Americans 
i-etreated slowly, lighting inch by inch, to a ])osition with the ]>ond on their rear, 
Battle Creek on the r., and Rocky Point on the 1. This sheltered ]>osition they 
maintained for eight hours against continual assaults, and at sundown the In- 
dians retreated, leaving 39 killed and wounded, including Paugus, who fell late in 
the contest. Througliout the long day the yells of the Indians, the cheers of the 
Americans, and the pattering of musketry resounded tlirough the forest, while 
Chaplain Frye, mortally wounded while fighting among the foremost, was often 
heard i>raying for victory. In the moonlit midnight hour the ])rovincials re- 
treated, leaving 15 of their number dead and <lying on the field, while 10 of the 
1!) others were wounded. After sutt'ering terribly on the retreat, the little band 
reached the settlements. The battle at Pe(iuawket filled the northern tribes with 
fear, and caused some of them to move to Canada. A long and mournful baliad 
of 30 stanzas (like the old Scottish ballad of Chevy Chase) commemorates this 
forest-light. 

" "What time the noble Lovewell came 

With titty men from I)unstnl)le, 
The cruel Pequot tribe to tame 

With arms and bloodshed terrible. 

" Ah I many n wife shall rend her hair, 
And many a child cry ' Woe i.s mel ' 
When mes^ensrers the news shall bear 
Of Lovewell s dear-bought victory. 

" With footsteps low shall travellers po 

Where Jjovewcll s I'ond shines clear and bright, 
And mark the place wlieie those are laid 
Who fell in Lovewells bloody fight." 

Fryeburg was granted to, settled by, and named for. Gen. Joseph Frye, of An- 



PORTLAND TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. Route 40. 287 

dover, Mass., a veteran officer of the French wars. It was for many years the 
only town near the AVhite Mts., and grew rapidly, having a weekly market-day 
which filled its streets with bnsy life. An academy was early established here 
(endowed by Mass.), and was taught in 1S02 by Daniel Webster. G<ivernor Enoch 
Lincoln lived here from 1811 to 1819, and Avrote a long poem, entitled "The Vil- 
lage," which was "descriptive of the beautiful scenery of the fairest town on the 
stream of the Saco." A few Pecpiawket Indians lingered in this locality after the 
dispersal of the tribe, and did good service in the expedition of Rogers's Rangers 
against St. Francis, and in the Continental Ai'my. 

Stages run from Fryebnrg to Paris, by way of Lovell, Sweden, "Waterford, and 
Norway (30 M.) ; also by Bridgton, Harrison, and Norway (32 M.). These towns 
are all in the Pequawket country, and Lovell (2 small inns) has the beautiful 
Kezer Pond, which is 1 M. wide and 8 M. long. 

After the train leaves Fryebnrg, the mountain views in front and to the 
1. are fine. The line enters New Hampshire, and passes by Conway 
Centre to N. Conway (see page 223) and Upper Bartlett. 

40. Portland to Quebec and Montreal 

Via the Grand Trunk Railway, which is owned and operated by an Anglo-Cana- 
dian corporation. This line is principally used for tlie trans p(n-tation of freight, 
but it runs one through passenger ti'ain daily. Portland to Gorham, 91 M., in 4.V- 
6 hours ; to Quebec, 317 M., in 19-20 houi-s ; to Montreal, 297 M., in 17^-19 
hours. 

The train leaves the spacious terminal station in Portland, near the Vic- 
toria Docks, and, passing around Munjoy's Hill, crosses the mouth of 
Back Cove. Tlience it runs through the towns of Falmouth and Cumber- 
land, near Casco Bay, and crosses the Maine Central Railway at Yar- 
mouth Junction. 

Station, N. Yarmouth, settled on the Indian domain of Wescustogo 
about 1640, and deserted in 1675-8, and 16S8-1713, on account of the 
Indian wars. On returning in 1713, the settlers found a young forest cov- 
ering their old fields and roads. Between 1725 and 1756 many of the 
colonists were killed or captured by the Indians. During the first half of 
the present century, the town grew and prospered, but during the past 20 
years it has lost 16 per cent of its population. Stages run hence to Dur- 
ham, on the Androscoggin. 

Stations, Pomnal and New Glmicester, the latter being a pretty and 
prosperous village which was founded by men of Gloucester, Mass., about 
1735. At Danville Junction the Maine Central Railway diverges N. E., 
and runs to Lewiston and Bangor. From Lewis ton Junction, branch line 
to Lewiston; also, stages to Poland Springs, 3^ M. (see page 308). Sta- 
tion, Mtchanic Falls, near a small factory village, from which tri-weekly 
stages run to Casco (12 M.). 

The Portland and Oxford Central Railway runs N. from Mechanic Falls, passing 
through the towns of Oxford, Hebron, Buck field, Hartford, and Canton (three 
inns.). Tiiese towns were all settled in the latter years of the 18th century, and 
the last four named have been losing in poijulation for 20 years. Canton was the 



288 Route 40. BETHEL. 

home of the Rockomeka Indians (who were exterminated hy the small-pox in 
1557 . and was settled in 170:^ nmler the name of Phiiips-Oanada. It is prettily 
situated near the Androscoggin River, and has some rieli intervale lands. 

The next station on the niain line is Oxford (Lake House), from which 
tri-weekly stages run to E. Otisfield, Casco, and Naples. 

Station, S. Paris (Andrews House), a busy village, with maniifactures 
and a large country trade. Daily stages run hence to Fryeburg, 33 M. S. 
W. (fare, ^ 2.00), by way of Norway, Harrison, and Bridgton ; also by way 
of Watert'ord, Stages run from every train to Paris Hill {Hubbard 
House; Union House), 3 M. N. E. This is a village on a lull 831 ft. 
higli, where are located the Oxford County buildings. To the E. is Mt. 
Mica, Avhere beaiitiful specimens of tourmaline are found, together with 15 
other minerals. It is called " the most interesting locality of rare min- 
erals in the State of Maine." Streaked Mt. is near by, and is nearly 
1,800 ft. high. Stations, W. Paris and Br //ant's Po7id (small inn), from 
which tri-weekly stages run to Milton Plantation, Rumford, and Andover 
(21 M. N. ; fare, $ 1.50); also to Paimford, Mexico, Dixfield, and N. Jay 
(on the Androscoggin Railroad). Another line runs from IVIexico through 
Roxbury to Byron. Rumford has some high hills, — Wliite Cap, Glass- 
Face, and others, which yield thousands of bushels of blueberries annually. 
The Kumford Falls have been called " the grandest in New England," 
and have suffered but little from "improvement." The descent of the 
Androscoggin River is over 150 ft. in three or four plunges over ragged 
granite ledges. The third fall has a j;iearly perpendicular descent of 70 - 
80 ft., and its roaring is heard at a great distance. There are throe taverns 
in Rumford. 

At Bryant's Pond station the track is 700 ft. above the sea, and the 
Pond itself is a pretty highland lake, from which flows the Little Andros- 
coggin River. Station, Bethel (* Bethel House, accommodating 100 
guests ; " The Elvis" House), a beautiful village in a town of about 2,200 
inhabitants. Tlie broad intervales of the Androscoggin are outspread here 
in all their fertility and fairness, while noble views of the White Mts. in 
the W. are ol)tained from adjacent hills. There are also mineral spring* 
(small hotel) in the town, rin<l numerous summer boarding-houses, whera 
comfort, quiet, and abundant country fare are given for the moderatt 
price of i? G - 10.00 a Aveek. 

Bethel has often been likened to N. Conway on account of its mortntain- 
views and rich intervales, and many city people spend their summers 
here to enjoy the air, the scenery, and tl)e fine fisliing in the vicinity. 12 
M. S. of Bethel are the Albany Basins, where the Pequawket River has 
worn a wonderful series of reseiwoirs in the talcose rock, the largest of 
which is 70 ft. deep and 40 ft. in diameter. 18 M. N. E. of Bethel, by 
good roads and througli pleasant river-scenery, arc the Rumford Falls, 



GILEAD. Rcmte Ifi. 289 

Bethel to Lake Umbagog. 

Semi-weekly stage to Upton, at the foot of the lake, in 26 M. ; fare, $2.50. The 
country traversed is mostly in a wild state and thinly populated, but affords some 
striking river and mountain scenery. The Androscoggin is followed for G M. to 
S. Neivry (small inn), after which the road lies near the Bear River, and 6 M. be- 
yond S. Newry, Bartlett's Poplar Tavern is passed. The Screw Auger Falls are 
al)out 3 M. from this point, ami near ]''anning's Mills. Beyond the Tavern the 
high hills of Grafton (chief among whit-h are Speckled and Saddleback Mts.) ap- 
pear to close across the road. But the Bear River is closely followed into Graf- 
ton Notcli, a lonely pass among the frowning hills. The remarkable water- 
gorge known as Moose Chasm is situated in this notch. The small Cambridge 
River is now approached, and in its valley tlie road passes on to the lake. Tlie 
townshii) of Upton (formerly Letter B. Plantation, and made a town in ISGO) is 
now entered, and the stage stojis at the Lake House, on the shore of Umbagog. 
There are two other iims in this town, wliich has ISO inhabitants. A steamer 
leaves the Lake House on the arrival of the stage, and runs to Errol Dam (in N. 
H.), a rude lumbermen's village, with two inns. Dixville Notch is 10 M. N. W. 
f)f Errol, and the handsome village of Colel>rook is 20 M. from Errol (by the Notch 
road). From Bethel to Colebrook (see page 243), the distance is about GO M. (the 
excursion is not recommended for ladies). 

The steamer ascends the Magalloway River from Errol Dam to Burfee's Land- 
ing (12 M.), whence adventurous parties of gentlemen have ascended to Parma- 
chcne Lake and Camel's Rum])Mt., which overlooks a wide and desolate wildei'- 
ness (see Harper's Magazine, Vol. XX.). 



Bethel was settled in 1773, under the name of Sudbury-Canada, and here, in 
17SI, oicurrcd the last Lidian depredation in Maine, when a small war-party 
from St. Francis plundered the outlying houses, killed three men, and led three 
prisoners to Canada. 

Tlie next station beyond Betliel i.s Gilead, a small village on the fertile 
Andro.scoggin meadow.s, between two ranges of shaggy mountains. It 
was named for a great balm-of-Gilead tree within its borders, and in the 
early years was almost rendered untenable by bold raids of bears with 
which the hills were infested. On the night of the Willey slide in the 
White Mt. Notch (1S26), immense avalanches fell from the mountains of 
Gilead, especially from Picked Hill. "The darkness was so intense as 
almost to be felt. The vivid liglitnings and long streams of fire covering 
tlie sides of the mountains caused by the concussion of the rocks, only 
served to make the darkness more visible. The valley rocked as though 
an eartlujuake were shaking tlie earth." 

Beyond Bethel the railway ]»as.5es the village of W. Bethel and runs 
through the glens of Gilead to -S'Ae^y/wTze (Winthrop House). From this 
point the mountain-views on the S. W. are fine, and the train rmis down 
on the r. bank of the Androscoggin, with Mt. Moriah on the 1. and Mt. 
Hayes on the r., to Gorhara (see page 227). Station, Berlin Falls (small 
hotel), near the famous Falls on the river, and next to Berlin is 3filan, 
" on the plains of Lumber-dy." The view down the river from Milan is 
very beautiful, including the vast forms of Mts. Washington, Adams, and 
Madison. E. of Milan is the town of Success, with 5 inhabitants, and 
N. of otark, through which the train passes beyond Milan, is the town 
13 s 



290 Rmtelfi. ST. HYACINTHE. 

of Odell, with about 25,000 acres and 1 inhabitant. Tlie line now follows 
the Upper Animonoosuc River, to Northumberland, and thence passes up 
the 1. bank of thp Connecticut Kiver to Stratford and N. Stratfcml, with 
the Percy Peaks on the r. (see page 243). The line now crosses the river 
and runs through 15 M. of uninhabited forest in Vermont, to Island Pond 
(* Stewart House, 100 guests); a village erected by 
the railway, which has spacious buildings here; this point being 149 
M. from Portland and 148 M. from Monti'eal. The border custom-house is 
located here, and near the village and track is a pretty lake, 2 M. long 
and I M. wide, surrounded by a hard, smooth beach of white quartz 
sand, with waters aboimding in fish. About 12 M. beyond Island Pond, 
tlie train passes Norton Pond, and enters the Dominion of Canada. At 
Linniixville the Passumpsic R. R. (Route 24) comes in from the S. Sher- 
brooke is the W. terminus of the International R. R., running 09 M. to 
Lake Megantic (and heading for Moosehead Lake); and of the Quebec 
Central R. R., running by Lake Aylmer and the Chaudiere Vallev to 
Quel)ec (140 M.). Eichmond (on the St.-Francis River) is the seat of 
St. -Francis College. 

The Quebec Braiich runs 76 M. N. E. from Richmond to Quebec. 
Station, Danville, a pretty rural village, with beautiful views from Clare- 
mont Hill and the Pinnacle (which is 3 M. from Danville, and rises 1,000 
ft. from the plain). Kingsey Falls are 7 M. distant, and are often visited. 
Station, Arthabaska, whence a branch road runs 35 M. N. W. down the 
Becancour valley to Three Rivers, on the St. Lawrence. 10 M. E. of 
Arthabaska is Rouillard ML, whence a broad forest-view is gained, ex- 
tending from the St. Lawrence 40 M. N. W. to the bright Lakes Aylmer 
and St. Francis, in the distant S. E. The train now passes on through a 
thinly populated country, and crosses the Chaudiere River about 8 M. 
from Quebec (2-3 M. from the Falls), and near the point where the Riviere 
du Loup Division (125 M. long) of the Grand Trunk Railway diverges to 
the N . E. The train stops at Point Levi, opposite Quebec, and pas- 
sengers are carried across the St. Lawrence in ferry-boats. 

Quebec, see Route 5G. 

From, Richmond to Montreal the distance is 76 M. (almost due W. ). 
After passing the copper-mining town of Acton, the train reaches St. 
Hyacinthe, 35 M. from Montreal. This is a curious old Franco-Cana- 
dian city, pleasantly situated on the plains on both sides of the Yamaska 
River. The Cathedral is a fine building, and the college is one of the 
best in America. " The course of studies here is said to be only equalled 
by the best Jesuit colleges in France." The * college building is an im- 
posing structure of cut stone, 700 ft. long, and surmounted by a cupola. 
The fertile district between St. Hyacinthe and Montreal is inhabited by 
the descendants of the old French immigrants, preserving their language, 
customs, and religion intact. The railway stations on this tract are 
Soixante, St. Hilaire, St. Bnmo, St. Hubert, and St. Lambert. The 



FARMINGTON. Rmite 4I. 291 

singular mts. of Beloeil, Yamaska, and Rongemont are passed, and at 
St. Lanibert the train crosses tlie St. Lawrence on tlie * Victoria Bridge. 
Montreal, see Route 54. 

41. Portland to Farmington and the Western Maine Forest 

Portland to Farmington, 93 M., in 5 hours ; to the Rangeley Lakes, 133 M. 

The train leaves the Portland and Kennebec station and runs over Roiite 
47 to Brunswick, where it passes on to the rails of the Androscoggin 
Division of the Maine Central Railway. Stations, Lisbon Falls (a manu- 
facturing village on the falls of the Andi'oscoggin), Lisbon, Crovde)/'s 
(whence a branch railroad diverges to Lewiston) Sabbat isville, and Leeds 
Junction. At this point the present route is crossed by Route 46, and 
close connections are made, so that passengers who prefer that route may 
avail themselves of it. For the next 12 M. the line runs through the 
to\yn of Leeds, stopping at the stations, Curtis Corner, Leeds Centre, and 
N. Leeds. 

Gen. O. O. Howard was born at Leeds in 1830. He graduated at West Point, 
and was an instructor tliere until the outbreak of the Rebellion in 1861. Leading 
the 3d Maine Volunteer Infantry into the Held, he won distinction and a general's 
couuiiission at Bull Run, and lost his right arm at the battle of Fair Oaks. He 
commanded the 11th corps of the Army of the Potomac at Fredericksburg, 
Chancellor.sville, and Gettysburg, and tlien fought in the Georgia eami)aigns. He 
commanded the right wing of Sherman's army in the march to the sea, and 
since the war has been engaged in the work of bettering the condition of the 
negroes and Indians. 

The next three stations (Strickland's Ferry, E. Livermore, and Liver- 
more Falls) are in the long town of E. Livermore, where the train ap- 
proaches the Androscoggin River. Livermore Falls is devoted to manu- 
factures. This district was called Rockomeka, or " great corn land," by 
the Indians, and is distinguished for its fine breeds of cattle. 

Just across the river is the town of Livermore, the birthplace of the brothers, — 
Israel "Washburne, Congressman, 1851-01, and Gov. of Maine, 18()l-3; E. B. 
Washburne, Congressman from Illinois, 1853-09, and Minister to France, 1809-70, 
an able statesman and skilful diplomatist ; and C. C. Washburne, Congressman 
from Wisconsin, 1856-62 and 1807 -71, a suc(;essful general in the campaigns in the 
lower Mississippi valley, and chosen Gov. of Wisconsin in 1871. 

Stations, Jay Bridge and N. Jay (stages to Dixfield and Bryant's 
Pond, on Route 40, in 37 M. ), in the farming town of Jay, and Wilton, a 
manufacturing village, from which stages run W. 13 M. to Weld (Mon- 
days and Fridays), a village (small inn) on the shore of a lake, with lofty 
mts. in the vicinity. Bear Mt. is on the S., Ben Nevis on the W., Metal- 
lic Mt. on the N., and Bald and Blue Mts. on the E., the latter being 
nearly 4,000 ft. above the sea, and 2,360 ft. above the village. Stages 
also run to Chesterville, on the E. 

Beyond E. Wilton, the train crosses the Sandy River and its intervales 
on a broad, curving trestle, and stops at Farmington {Stoddard House; 



292 Route ^1. THE RANGELEY LAKES. 

Hotel Marble; Lake House). The town has 3,252 inhabitants, with 2 
banks, a weekly paper, and 6 churches. This bright village is situated on 
the favorite grain-lands of the old Canibas Indians, and has also a lucrative 
lumber-trade. The Western State Normal School is located here; also the 
Little Blue School, so that tliis remote village on the edge of the forest has 
somewhat of an academic air. The Franklin County buildings are also 
located here. 

Stages run from Farminpton to Temple; to New Vinejard, New Portland, and 
Kiugfield; to Industry and Starks ; to New Sharon, Rome, Belgrade, and Augusta. 

New Portland and Kingtield (Franklin House) are picturesque but thinly iio})u- 
lated mt. to\vns. Near Kinglield on the W. is the Mt. Abraham Range, 3,387 ft. 
high. The natural and civil histories of the Maine border towns are monoto- 
nously alike. Tliey were mostly settled between 1775 and 1800, exhibited a slow 
growth until 1860, and then began to retrograde. The losses occasioned by thr 
war, the great emigration westward, and the sterility of the New England" ract 
are the reasons generally assigned for this decadence, while the severity of tin 
ci;mate, the destruction of the forests, and the exhaustion of the soil, are sell 
evident natural causes of decline. Franklin County, through which the iiresen; 
route is laid, had nearly 2,000 more inhabitants in 1860 than in 1870, and in that 
same decade the State lost 7,872 in poijulation. This lias been Maine's loss, but 
the Union's gain, and natives of this State may be found in posts of trust and 
honor in nearly every large American community. 

The Eangeley Lakes 

have of late years become the favorite fishing-ground of New England, 
and hotels, cottages, lodges, and camps abound on their beautiful wooded 
capes and coves. They are nearly 1,500 ft. above the sea, and cover 80 
square miles, abounding in trout and other game-fish, and surrounded by 
great unbroken forests, haunted with game. A quaint little railroad as- 
cends from Farmington, passing Strony (stages to Freeman. 5 M., and 
Salem, 9 M., near Mt. Abraham), to Phillips {*Tlie Ehmoood ; Bardin 
House), a lively frontier-town, with 2 churches, a paper, and miles of fer- 
tile farms. A road and path lead hence to the crest of Mt. Blue. From 
riiillips morning stages to Madrid (Madrid House), across tlie Beech-Hill 
spur of Saddle-back, and doAvn to Grtfnr(de (Gretn-\'(de House), whence 
a road of 3 M., and a steamboat runs down Eangeley Lake, 9 M. by 3 M., 
to Ranfjeley (Kangeley-Lake House; Oquossoc House), a small lake-side 
village. 10 M. N^is Kennebngo Lake, and 7 M. W. is The Outlet (Moun- 
tain-View House), 1\ M. from Indian lioch and Camp Kennebaf/o, the 
headquarters of the powerful Oquossoc Angling Association. Close by is 
Ciipsuptic Lake, rich in scenery, and the route to I'arnuicliene Lake (17 M. 
by boat, and 8 M. of hard walking). Mooselucmaguntic Lake, just be- 
low, is traversed by a steamer touching at lacluudson's Camp, Bugle 
Cove, Camp Bema, and Upper Dam, where there are small inns (stages 
from Camp Bema to Byron, 10 M.). This is the largest of the Uangeley 
Lakes, and has much beautiful scenery, and very good fishing and hunting. 

Bchiw the l'i)i)er Dam is Lake Mollychunkamunk, 5 M. by lA, famous 
for trout aiul doer, and 6 M. from ]\It. Aziscoiis; aiul below this is Welo- 
kenebacook Lake. There are snmil steamboats and inns on boih these 
lakes. A G-M. road leads from the Middle Dam to Lake Umbagog, who.-e 
steamer runs to Upton and Frrol Dam (see pages 244 and 'l'i\)). and up the 
lonely Magalloway Kiver, near whose head-waters is Lake Parmachene. 

Another favorite route to the Rangeley Lakes is from Bryant's I'ond, on the 
Grand Trunk, 22 M. N. to tlie lovely town of Andovor {French's Hotel; Ando- 
rer House, >^1 - 10 a week), whence daily bnckhoards run, 11 M., to the S. arm 
of Welokenehiicook, cfmneetiiig there with the stianiboat at noon. From Bry- 
ant's Pond (Glen-Mitimtain House) the stage passes through I'in Uool: ntid liuin- 
/ruv/ (Rnint'onl Hotel), and :imcti(1=! the Eliis-I'.iver Valley by Lead Mf., White Ca)), 
and other pe.iks. Stage f:i re, to Andover, S 1 50 ; theix o to S. Arm,!? 150. I :.e 
road IVoui Audover N. leuds tiirouga au uuhrokeu wilderue>s, with picture, (iuo 



SKOWIIEGAX. Route 42. 293 

mountains and notches. The vicinity of Audover is full of interesting excursion- 
points, -^ W'hite-Oap Mountain, 7 51. {road within 1 M. of top) ; Hlack-Urook Notch, 
9 M. ; between Sawyer Mt, and Elue Alt. ; Sawyer's Notch ; the Cascades ou Frye's 
lirook, Sac. 

42. Portland to the Upper Kennebec. 

By either of the Routes 46 or 47 to Waterville, and thence by a branch raih'oad 
in I'j M. to Skowhegan. This line passes along the r. bank of the Kennebec, with 
the stations of Fairfield, Somerset Mills, and I'isuou Ferry. 

The Somerset R R. runs farther up tue valley, diverging from the Maine Central 
R. R. at Oakland, and passing through Norridgewock, Madison, Ausou, and N. 
Anson (2(i M.). 

Skowhegan (ITesdton House, 150 guests, $10.50-14; Hotel Cohurn, 
S8-1-2) is a pleasant village in a prosperous town of about 4,000 
inhabitants. It has 3 banks, a weekly paper, and 5 churches, and 
derives its importance from numerous manufactories situated on a large 
water-power. The Kennebec here falls 28 ft. perpendicularly over ragged 
ledges, with a picturesque island ending at the crest of the fall. The 
falls are best viewed from the point near the site of the Skowhegan Ho- 
tel, or from the carriage-bridge below. From the latter point there is a 
pleasant view down the river, the most prominent object being the grace- 
ful railway-bridge, while the streaui is narrowed between high, rocky 
banks like a western canon. The favorite drive is to Norridgewock 
(5 i\I.) by a fine river-road, returning on the opposite bank, and aft'ording 
beau ti fid views of the blue Kenneliec. 

S'agcs leave Skowhegan early every morning for Mad'n^on, 5 M. ; Solon (Solon 
H(Hise), 14; Bitii/ham {Sia,'j;e House, where dinner is taken), 22; Carrifiot/,- (O.w- 
ney's House), S'!; and The Fork.s { Forl^x Hotel, 150 guests, .'!!(5-14 a week), 
4 i M , at t!ie contluence of tlie Kenneliec ami Dead Rivers. Daily stages from 
N Anson to Solon (8 M.), connecting witli above route Tri-weekiy stages from 
T.ie Forks to Part in Pond (Parlin-Pond House, $5 -14), 15 M. ; Jorkmantowii 
(.\dams's inn), 20 M. ; Afoose Jlirer, 30 M. ; Sandy Bay, or Canada Road (Hilton's 
inn), 44 ; and Kennchec Line, 48. . Thence Canadian mail-stages descend the 
Cliaudure Valley, 51 M., to St. Joseph de lieauce, on the Quebec Central R. R. 

Norridgewock (two inns) is a beautiful rural town, situated on both 
sides of the Kennebec, and on the Somerset Railroad. At the N. vil- 
lage, 5 M. from Skowhegan, are the old Somerset County buildings, with 
a broad river-side street on which stand some rare and immense old trees. 
The river is here crossed by a carriage-bridge and a fine railway-bridge. 
r> - 6 M. above the village, and near the confluence of the Kennebec and 
the Sandy Rivers, is Old Point. 

At Old Point was tlie chief town of the Canibas Indians, a powerfid tribe of 
t!n' Alienaqui nation. As early as IGHl French missionaries from Quebec settled 
here, and in 1005 Sebastian Rale, a FreuL-h Jesuit, came from Canada and be- 
came the spiritual and (!)rarti(;ally) political chief of the tribe. Kale was a 
man ol' high culture, and "had been Greek professor in the College of Nismes (in 
S. France). He prepared a complete di(!tionary (now at Harvard University) of 
the Ahenaqui language, which had diminutives and augmentatives hke the 
Italian, and was "a jjowerfnl and flexible language, — the Greek of America." 
While the colonial government policy was generally e(iultahle and fair toward the 
Indians, frequent gross ijijuries and cruelties wcrj intlictcd on them by irrespon- 
sible Enghsh adventurers. Hence a burning sense of wrongs endured and the 



294 Route 42. PORTLAND TO THE UPPER KENNEBEC. 

loss of their ancestral lands forced the Indians into a constant state of Tv'arlike 
fervor. It is said that Father Rale had a superb consecrated banner floating 
before his church, and emlilazoued with the cross and a bow and sheaf of arrows. 
This was the crusading flag borne often and again over tlie smoking ruins of 
Maine and N. H. villages. In 170.5 Norridgewock was destroyed by 270 colonial 
soldiers, who marched thither swiftly in winter by the aid of snow-shoes. At the 
close of Queen Anne's War (Peace of Utrecht) the Sachem of the tribe went to 
Boston, to demand worknien to rebuild the village-church, and an indcnniity for 
the destruction of the houses. Mass. promised both, on condition that Norndge- 
wock would accept a Puritan x^astor, but the Sachem refused the condition. The 
Indians soon restored their homes, and sutiered another plundering raid in 1722, 
for which the coast of Maine paid dearly. In 1724 it was seen that the tribe 
must be driven away before the coast-towns could be held securely, and in Au- 
gust of that year an atrocious attack was made on Norridgewock by 20S colonial 
soldiers from Fort Richmond. So carefully was the .Tdvance guarded by Har- 
mon's Rangers and a company of Mohawks, that the village was surrounded, and 
th<> first intimation of the presence of the colonials was conveyed in a shower of 
bullets which swept through the streets. Some of the Indians esca])ed through 
the thin environing lines, but all who remained in the wigwams — men, women, 
and children— were massacred. 

"The noise and tumult ga\'e Pere Rale notice of the danger his converts were 
in, and he fearlessly showed himself to the enemy, hojiing to draw all their atten- 
tion to himself, and to secure the .safety of his flock at the peril of his life. He 
was not disappointed. As soon as he appeared, the English set up a great shout, 
which was followed by a shower of shot, when he fell dead near to the cross wliich 
he had erected in the midst of the village. Seven chiefs, who sheltered his body 
with their own, fell around him. Thus did this kind shepherd give his life for his 
sheep, after a painful mission of 37 years." (Charlevoix.) When the fragment 
of the tril)e re-entered the ruined village, they found Rale's body, horribly muti- 
lated, at the foot of the mission cross. "After his converts had raised up and 
oftentimes kissed the precious remains, so tenderly and so justly beloved by them, 
they buried him in tlie same place where he had, the evening before, celebrated 
the sacred mysteries, namely, the spot where the altar stood before the church 
was burnt." {Histoire Gencrale de Nouvdle France.) Bishop Fenwick, of Bos- 
ton, erected a granite obelisk on the site of the church m 18.33. After Ijiug deso- 
late for half a century, Norridgewock was settled by the whites in 1773. 

Starks (Clifton Housed is a farming town 10 M. N. W. of Norridgewock, 
with tri-weekly stages to Fannington, 13 M. W. (see -Route 41). On tliu 
new Somerset Railroad route, Anson is N. of Starks, and is a consider- 
able, though failing village, with 3 small hotels and about 1,700 inhabi- 
tants. Emhden is a large but thinly settled town across the river from 
Solon (inn), a decadent towm near Carritunk Falls, where the Kennebec 
narrows from 480 ft. wide to 40 ft. , and falls about 20 ft. The stage- 
route passes through Solon, Bingham, Moscow, and Carritunk, to The 
Forks, a forest-village of about 150 iiiliabitants, 45 M. N, W. of Skow- 
hegan. Here are a few houses and a large hotel, amid fine forest-scenery, 
5 M. from Moxle Poml, island-strewn and mountain-walled ; 12 M. from 
the rare trouting of Pleasant Pond; and 25 M. (no road) from Mooseliead 
Lake. There is capital fishing in the sandy-shored Parlin Pond, near 
■which is the frontier custom-house, and at Wood Pond, Attean Pond, and 
INIoose River, farther into the forest. From Moose-River Village canoes 
descend the river by Long Pond and Brassua Lake to Moosehead Lake, 
32 M. E. 

Stages run from N. Anson (Somerset TTouse). 48 M. N. W. up the C.arrahasset 
Vallev, liY New Portland and Kinsfield, to Fiis*!S (Sfimr Hmisr), on Von\ Itiv.-r, 
and near Mt. Higelow and olher i>euko. () M I c; oiid is Tim fnu.:, and 1: M fir- 



KATAHDIN IRON- WORKS. Route 43. 295 

ther in are the Seven Ponds, famous fishing-grounds. Another stage-route, of 
38 M., leads from N. Anson by l>ead Kiver {Mt -Bigelow House), to Fiacfstaff 
(Flagstaif House), at the foot of Mt. Bigelow. This wild aoid sequestered region 
atfords very good fishing and hunting. 



43. Boston or Portland to Koosehead Lake. 

The Mt.-Kineo House is about 20 hours from Boston (tickets up and back, $ 15) 
by taking the 7 P. M. Pullman train to Bangor, where one arrives at 5.45 A. IM , and 
takes the morning train on the Bangor and Piscataquis R. K., reaching the hotel 
about mid-afternoon. Or the day-train may be taken from Boston, and the ni^lit 
may be sjient at Bangor. Or Bangor may be reached by steamboat from Boston 
(see Route 48). 

The Bangor and Piscataquis train ascends the Penobscot River for 12 jM., 
by Veazie and Oruno, to Oldtown, where it diverges from the Maine- 
Central line and runs up the Piscataquis Valley, across the decadent 
towns of Alton, Lagrange, arid Orneville. At Mdo Junction a railroad 
diverges to the N. 25 M. up the Pleasant-River Valley, famous for its 
slate-quarries, to Katahdin Iron- Works (Silver-Lake Hotel, 100 guests), 
around which are very good trout-ponds and deer-haunted woods, with 
the Whitecap, Horseback, and Chairback Mts., the Gulf, the Ebeme Mts., 
and the Houston Ponds. A rude logging-road leads N. to Ripogenus and 
Chesuncook. At Brownville, on this line, may be found guides, and the 
road to Schoodic and Seboois Lakes and the Ebeme Ponds. 

From Sebec station, on the main line, daily stages run N. to S. Sebec, 
Sebec (5 M.), and Barnard. From Sebec a steamboat runs daily up the 
beautiful Sebec Lake, 12 M. long, to the LaJce House, at the mouth of 
Wilson Stream. Boats, guides, and supplies may be obtained at Sebec. 
for excursions to Buck's Cove, Lake Onaway, and other famous fishing- 
grounds, amid charming wild scenery. 

Dover (Blethen House), the shire-town, has a newspaper and many 
farms, and a daily stage to Dexter, 14 M. S. W. Across the river is 
Foxcroft (Foxcroft Exchange), a busy manufacturing village. The train 
passes on by Sangerville and Guilford (Tin-ner House), to Abbott Villuf/e 
(Buxton's), whence a daily stage runs N. 14 M. to Howard and Willi- 
mantic, at the head of Sebec Lake. The line next rises on high grades, 
giving fine views over the hill-girt valley. From Monson Junction a 
branch line runs N. 5 M. to Monson (Lake-Hebron Hotel, 100 guests), 
where 300 men quarry fine slate. Lake Hebron is 900 ft. above the sea, 
and 3i M. long. In the vicinity are Lake Onaway, 8 M.; Greenwood 
Lake; Sebec Lake, 9 M.; and a score of forest-enwaljcd ponds, stocked 
with trout, land-locked salmon, and German carp. 

Beyond Monson Junction the line traverses a thinly populated region, 
crossing the towns of Blanchard and Shirley, and running down to the 
terminus at West Bay, on Moosehead Lake. 



20G Route /^S. MOOSlIILAU LAKE. 

Mocsehead Lake. 

Tlie magnificent wilderness Ij iu^ about and beyond Monseheail Lake, as far as 
tt'O 0;iiiailiaii IVimtieis, with its lakes and rivers, portages aud cun.ps. lisning and 
bunting jrrouLids, &c., are very carefully des<cri lied, with larj^e maps and jiletitirul 
illustrations, in Lucius L. Hubbard's new book, '■ Woods aud Lakes of Maine" 
(published by James R. Osgood & Co.), aud also in the f-auie author'y " Guide to 
Moosehead Lake and Northern Maine." 

Kiueo is a peninsula situated half-way up Moosehead Lake, projecting from the 
E. shore so far that the lake, which a few miles below is 15 M. wide, is here nar- 
rowed to little more than 1 M. Mt. Kiueo is 900 ft. higli, rising grailually from the 
water on the N. and \V., and on the S. and E. presenting perpendicular faces of Hint 
rock. The Pebble Beach is formed of pieces of stone of various colors broken from 
the mountaiu, rounded and polished by the action of the w.iter. S. of the mt. the 
ground forms a plateau sloping gently to the water. Here stanls the Mt.-Kinco 
House, with accoumiodations for 500 guests, fitted with modern couvenieu' es, — 
a first-class hotel erected (in 1884) and n:aintained in the wilderness. It is famed 
as a headquarters for trout-fishermen, who come in great numbers from all parts of 
the United States for the fishing in .lune and September. It is al.-o a favorite 
refuge for those afHicted with hay-fever, and a resort for all who eiijoy the air and 
scenery of lake and mountain combined, ('arriage-roads and wood-paths lead to 
the Cliff, Pebble Beach, &c. Steamers belonging to the liou.'-e convey guests to any 
part of the lake. H^re camjnng parties for all points farther up rlie lake, for the 
West Branch of the Penobscot, and tlie St. .lolin waters, obtain guides and sup- 
plies. The transient rates .at the Mt. Kiueo are .s 2 a day lor June, a-2- 3 tor July 
and Oct., .112.50-3.50 for Aug. and Sept., with iliscounts for sojourns of a week or 
more. Electric bells, steam-heating, g;L«i, elevator. &c. 

Greenville {ImIv House ; Evdeth House) is a small farming village on theS. shore, 
and about 5 M. W. o!' Wilson E^md, whieli is famed for its tiout. Here may be 
seen many lumbermen,— Americans, Indians, and Canadian and Acadian Pioii -h- 
men, — rude and stalwart foresters. " Maine has two classes of warriors among 
its sons, — lighters of forest and fighters of seas. Braves must join one or the 
other army. The two are close allies." 

Moosehead Lake is 3-5 j\L long, from 4 to 12 M. wide, and contaiii.s 220 
square Tuile.s. It is 1,02-3 ft. above tlie sea, to wliich its waters pass by 
the Kennebec River. The sliores are monotonous and uncultivated, save 
where Mt. Kineo runs out into the lake, though distant mts. on either 
side give variety to the view. Except Greenville, at the S. end, there are 
no towns, plantations, or permanent settlements on these lonely shores. 

Steamers leave Greenville daily for Mt. Kineo. Passing out of the long, 
deep cove in which the village is situated, the Sijuaw ]\It. is seen on the 
1. and the steamer runs N. between Deer Island on the 1. and Sugar Island 
on the r. E. of the latter is Lilly Cove, strewn with romantic i.slets and 
surrounded by mts. Beyond Sugar Island the great bay is seen to the S. 
W., through which the Kennebec flows outward toward the sea, while 
Spencer Bay opens to the N. E., with Spencer Mt. (4,000 ft. high) at its 
head. Katahdin may be seen to the N. E. on a clear day. The bold 
bluffs of Kineo are now seen ahead, and the steamer stops near its base 
and close by the hotel. 

At 16 - 18 M. N. of ]\tt. Kineo, over the desolate-shored North Bay, the end of the 
Lake is reached, and a well-travelled portage of '2 M. leails across to tiie Penobscot 
River. This river may be descended in a }»irch-c-inoe well guided (jiassing .several 
rapids) te Chesnncook Lake, I'O-oO M. N. E. Plain forest-fare and rude forest- 
life must be encountered here. Chcsuncook is about '20 M. long and 1 -3 M. wide, 



PORTLAND TO ROCKLAND. lloidc U. 297 

and lios to the S. of the large Lakes, Cauconigomuc and Caucomgomosis, and the 
Allagasli cliaiu of hikes, the southernmost and largest of which is Apniogeuagu- 
niook. Beyond Chesuncuok (IS. E.) Ripogenus Lakt; is traversed, then ensues a 3 
M. portage, and then the river is descended for many leagues to PeniaduuKJook 
Lake, with Mt. Katahdin boldly prominent on the N. E. and N. This mt. is some- 
times ascended with the canoe-guides, from the river, — a long and ai'duous 
journey. From Peniadumcook the widening river (more properly the W. branch 
of the Penobscot) may be followed to Mattawamkeag or Oldtown. 

Good guides, a supply of provisions, and strong clothing are requisite fortius 
tour, wliicli requires 7-10 days, from Greenville to Oldtown. (See a vigorous 
account of this loute by Theodore Winthrop, " Life in the Open Air," (Jhai)s. 
VI. -XV. ; also Thoreau's "Maine Woods.") 

44. Portland to Rockland. 

By the Maine Central and Knox and Lincoln Railways, in 96 M. The 
train leavevS the Portland and Kennebec station in Portland and passes 
over Route 47 to Brunswick. Stages run thence to Harpswell and Orr's 
Island. A few miles beyond Brunswick, the train reaches Bath. (* Sagada- 
hoc House ; Shannon'' s Hotel ; Coliimhian), a maritime city situated on the 
Kennebec River, ]2 M. from the sea. Bath has 11,000 inhabitants, with a 
valuation of % 6,400,000, 7 banks, and a daily paper. It was foj-nierly 
the fourth city in the republic in the shipbuilding business, and grew in 
wealth and prosperity until the decline of American commerce. This 
branch of industry was founded here in 1762, and was favored l»y the fa- 
cility with which the best ship timber was floated down the Kenneliec fi'om 
the northern forests. In 1853 and 1854 the tonnage built here amounted 
to 107,854. The city has a fine harbor, rarely embarrassed Avith ice, and 
deep enough for the largest ships. The streets are irregular in their 
contour, and the settled district extends for over 3 M. along the W. bank 
of the river, being only about \ M. wide. The river at this point is over 
\ M. in width, and is rapid and deep. There is a neat Government 
building here, also the Sagadahoc County buildings, and 11 churches. 

The site of Bath was first visited by Capt. Weymouth in 1605. It was bought 
from Robin Hood, an Indian chief, by Rev. Robert Guteh, of Salem, who lived 
here from IGfjO to 1G79. The growth of the settlement was very slow until the 
close of the Revolutionary War, when an active lundjer and shipping trade sprang 
up, which was but momentarily injured by the Embargo and the AVnr of 1S12. 
From causes which are national rather than local, Bath's leading industry has 
been checked, and the city, like the other small maritime cities of New England, 
is turning towards manufactures. 

Stages run daily to Arrowsic and GeorgetoAvn. Steamers run to Phipsburg, 
Georgetown, Arrowsic, Boothbay, Pema(]uid, and Waldoboro. 

The long peninsnlfis and narrow parallel islands which run into the salt water 
below Bath are very interesting in a historical point of view. Arrowsic is an 
island town with about 250 inhabitants, on 20,000 acres of land, nuicli of which is 
salt-marsh. This island was settled ami fortified in IGGl, and its settlement was 
destroyed by an Indian raid in 1723. In another midnight attack, 50 houses were 
burnt, and 35 persons were killed and captured in the fort, which was stormed in 
the ilarkness. Months after, a detachment of soldiers landed to bury the dead, 
but were ambushed and rudely handled, dcorijetoirn is an island town below 
Arrowsic, with similar annals of early adventure. Phipsburg is a long }ieiiinsula, 
Btretching for about ] 2 M. from Bath to Bald Uead Cape, bounded on the AV. by 

13* 



298 Route U. WOOLWICH. 

Quohog Bay, and on the E. by the widenings of the Kennebec. The Uuguenot chief, 
De Monts, planted the cross here in 1CU4, and in 1607 Sir George Fophani ami 
Raleigh Gilbert (nephew of Sir Walter Kaleigh) came here with 2 ships and lu(J 
men. "They sayled up into the river neere 40 leagues, and found yt to be a very 
gallant river, very deepe," and then returned to this peninsula, where they landed 
and celebrated the service of the Episcopal Church, assembled around their chap- 
lain. This is said to have been tlie first Christian service in New England. A 
line of cabins and a church were built, and Fort !St. George was raised for their 
protection. After a quarrel between the colonists and Indians, the latter got 
possession of the fort, and plundered it ; but having scattered around several bar- 
rels of powder (being ignorant of its qualities), it caught ttre and exploded, de- 
stroying the fort and the Indians. The remaining aborigines, interpreting the 
fatal explosion as a Divine punishment, hastened to be reconciled with the colo- 
nists, whom they supi)lied with food all winter. The intense cold of the Avinter 
of 1607-8, the destruction of their stores, the dubious favor of the Indians, and 
the death of Popham and other leaders caused the colony to break uj) in the 
spring and return to England, having "found nothing but extreme extremity." 
The peninsula was resettled in 1716 by the Pejepscot proprietore, who erected 
here a stone fort 100 ft. S(iuare, made houses and roads, and established a line of 
communication by sea with Boston. A few years later it was destroyed liy a sud- 
den Indian attack, and the fort was demolished. The peninsula was again settled 
in 1737, and in 1814 was incorporated, and named in honor of Sir William Phips. 
The town has 1,344 inhabitants, largely engaged in fishing and shipbuilding, and 
its shores are rugged and irregular. Seguin Island lies off shore to the S. There 
are one or two small summer boarding-houses on the peninsula. 

The 3d Maine Regiment, in the Secession W^ar, was raised in the Kennebec 
Valley, between Phipsburg and Skowhegan. It was one of the bravest regiments 
in the army, was engaged in nearly all the great Virginian battles, and at Gettys- 
burg alone lost 113 men. Howard was its first colonel. 

Tri-weekly stages run S. from Batli to Winnegancc, 8 M. ; Phippsburg, 7 M. ; 
Parker's Head, 10 M. ; and Small Point, 15^ M. Also (from Woolwich) tri-weekly 
to Arrowsic and Georgetown. 

At Bath the througli cars for Rockland are taken across the Kennebec 
River on a large steam ferrj^-boat, and run on to the rails of the Knox 
and Lincoln Railroad at Woohvich, on the farther shore. This town was 
settled in 1638 on the Indian domain of Nequasset, and was depopulated 
by an attack in 1676. 50 years later it was resettled, and in 1759 was in- 
corporated as Woolwich, so named from a resemblance of the Kennebeo 
River at this point to the English Thames at Woolwich. 

William Phips was bom at Woolwich in 1G51, and was a shepherd on its rocky 
hills. Learning how to read and write, and then aCciuiring the art of shii)-car- 
pentering, he rose in consideration and influence. In 1684 he sailed from London 
in a war vessel, to attempt the recovery of the gold from a sunken Spanish treas- 
ure-ship near the Bahamas. The quest was unsuccessful, but in 1687 he suc- 
ceeded in recovering from the wreck $1,500,000 in jewels and bars of gold and 
silver. He was knighted by the king, and received $80,000 of the treasure. He 
commanded the expedition which took Port Royal from the French, and from 1692 
to 1694 he was Gov. of Mass. In 1694 he died suddenly at London, where he had 
gone to render an account of his government. His activity, bravery, and enter- 
prise enabled him to rise from the tasks of an unlettered shepherd on the Wool- 
wich bills to the governorship of the chief British province in America. 

Beyond Woolwich the train passes the country stations of Nequasset 
and Montsweag, and then stops at Wiscasset (Hilton House), a maritime 
town on the Sheepscot River, 12 M. from the sea. It has 1,978 inhabi- 
tants, 2 banks, and a weekly paper (tlie " Seaside Oracle "). The widen- 
ings of the river opposite Wiscasset afford a broad and capacious harbor, 
with 12 - 20 fathoms of water, and but rarely troubled with ice. It w^as 



PEMAQUID. Route U- 299 

once talked of for a U. S. naval station. Tliis town was laid nnder con- 
tribution by the British sloop-of-war "■ Rainbow," during the Revolution. 
Its palmiest days were between 1780 and 1806, when the maritime trade 
was very extensive, and many leagues of back country were dependent on 
it for supplies. This prosperity was ruined by the Embargo and the War 
of 1812, and Wiscasset is now only a pleasant village, fading slowly from 
its picturesque hills. 

Daily stages run from Wiscasset to Boothhay (two inns), 9 M. S., another of the 
ancient peninsular towns. It was visited by Weymouth in 1605 ; settled in 1030 ; 
destroyed in 1G88 ; and resettled in 1730. Its fine harbor was chosen for a naval 
station by the British government about 1770, but tlie outbreak of the Revolu- 
tionary War jirevented national works from being constructed. The town has 
3,200 inhabitants, who are mostly engaged in the fisheries, the coasting trade, and 
in shipbuilding. The village is very attractive, with islands in front guarding 
the noble harbor, in which, during long storms, 4-500 sail of fishing vessels 
sometimes take refuge. Many summer visitors rest at Boothbay, which is reached 
also by steamer from Bath. The steamer touches, en route, at Southport (Rose- 
wood Cottage), an insular town inhabited by fishermen. The S. extremity of 
this island is Cape Newagen, whence the Damariscove Islands are seen on the E. 
Westport is another insular town, 11 M. long, to the W. of Boothbay, and inhab- 
ited by fishermen. 

Beyond Wiscasset the train passes to the station, Newcastle and Dam- 
ariscotta. A considerable settlement was made at Newcastle early in 
the 17th century, as is evinced by the traces still seen. It was probably 
destroyed by the French, and its memory has faded from history. Many 
years after this colony fell, another was established, which was destroyed 
in King Philip's War. A third settlement on the same site Avas destroyed 
in 1688, and the land lay desolate for 30 years. The town now contains 
1,729 inhabitants, mostly engaged in manufacturing. Damariscotta 

(Maine Uotel) was settled in 1640, and was a frontier post of the 
old Pemaquid Patent. It was often assailed by the Indians, and twice or 
thrice was abandoned. It was named for Damarine, Sachem of Sagada- 
hoc (called Robin Hood by the English), and now is generally spoken of, 
in the country-side, as "Scottie." It has 1,334 inhabitants, and ship- 
building is the cliief industry. The Damariscotta River separates it from 
Newcastle. 

Stages run to Alna, Pittston, and Gardiner ; to Jefferson and Augusta ; to Bris- 
tol and Pemaquid. Bristol is a territorially large town, embracing nearly all the 
peninsula between the Damariscotta River and Muscougus Bay. It has about 
3,000 inhabitants, and at the village of Round Pond are extensive oil-works. 

Pemaquid. 

On and near a rocky promontory in the extreme S. of Bristol is the site of the 
ancient colony of Pemaquid, than which no locality in New England lias more of 
historic charm. The Maine Historical Society has explored these deserted sliores, 
and the site and ruins of Fort Frederick have been secured for a monument to bo 
erected in honor of the pioneers. 

Capt. Weymouth visited Pemaquid in 1605, and kidnapped several Indians. 10 
years later a furious war broke out between the Tarratine Indians and the Bashaba 
or Chief of the Western Maine tribes. The Bashaba and his family and council- 



300 Route U. WALDOBORO. 

lors were put to death by a flaring inroad of the Tarratines, but the- tribes had 
become greatly reduced by the war and an ensuing pestilence. The Wawen.)cks 
(fear-naughts) occupied the peninsulas about Pema(iuid, but were so reduced in 
strength as to be unable to prevent colonization. In 1630 it is said that a fort 
was erected here, and in 1631 the Peniaquid Patent was granted to two merchants 
of Bristol. In 1632 the pirate Dixey Bull entered the harbor, plundered the 
village, and carried away the vessels. Massachusetts sent an armed ship against 
him, but he was taken by a royal cruiser, and executed (probably) at London in 
1635. In 1648 all this region was formed into a "Ducal State," and made an ap- 
panage of James, Duke of York (afterwards King James II.). No religious service 
but the Anglican was allowed. In 1635, the 16-gun brig "Angel Gabriel" was 
wrecked here, and in 167-4 Sir Edmund Andros built Fort Charles, brought in 
many Dutch inunigrants, and named the place Jamestown. It had then three 
long, ]iaved streets, with several cross-streets, and was called " the metropolis of 
New England." The Indians remained tranquil during King Philip's War, until 
they had suffered grave affronts from the colonists, when they swept down on 
Pemaquid and utterly destroyed it. Many of the people escaped in boats to Mon- 
hegan, an island far out in the sea. In 1678 the jjlace was reoccupied, and in 
16S9 it was again destroyed by the Tarratines, tlie 3 cai)tains of the garrison 
having been killed. The point was reoceui)ied by 850 Mass. troops, and in 1692 
Sir WiUiam Phips erected a stone fort here, mounting 18 guns, and called tlie 
strongest on the continent. This was named Fort William Henry, and soon 
repulsed an attack by 2 French 36-gun frigates. In 1693 13 Tarratine and Penob- 
scot chiefs submitted at the settlement, and the village grew rapidly. In 1696 
Iberville (having defeated an English fleet on the coast) attacked the place with a 
fleet bearing several hundred French regulars, some Mic-Mac Indians, and 200 
Tarratines under Baron de Castine. After bombarding Fort William Henry from 
batteries on the opposite point and from the fleet, a breach was made and the 
fort was taken. The settlement was plundered and ruined, and the surviving 
inhabitants were led into captivity. It was soon settled again, and when Mass. 
took possession of Maine its people begged that Pemaquid might "remain the 
metropolitan of these parts, because it ever have been so before Boston was 
settled." In 1724 the ruined fort was somewhat repaired to defend the people in 
Lovew ell's War, and in 1730 it was rebuilt under the name of Fort Frederick, by 
Col. Dunbar, sun'cyor of the King's woods in America. This officer had a fine 
mansion here, and laid out a new city, but was soon relieved on account of his 
arbitrary acts, and was made Gov. of St. Helena. Fort Frederick was attacked in 
1745, and in 1747 it was assaulted by a French force, which was repulsed with 
heavy loss. The fort was destroyed by the people in the Revolutionary War, lest 
it should become a British post. In 1813 a sharp naval battle occurred off" Pema- 
quid Point, when the American brig " Enterprise " was attacked by the British 
brig "Boxer." After a conflict of 48 minutes the "Boxer" surrendered, having 
suffered severe losses. In 1814 tlie place was attacked by 275 men in boats from 
the frigate " Maidstone," who were repulsed with such severe loss that the 
captain of the fiigate was discharged from the British navy. 

Ancient fortifications, streets, cellars, wharves, and cemeteries are found all 
over the Point, and many remarkable antiquities may be shown by the farmers 
near the now deserted point. 

•' The restless sea resounds along the shore. 

The lipht land-breeze flows outward with a sigh, 
And each to each seems clianting evermore 
A mournful memory of the days gone by. 
Here, where they lived, nil lioly tboiitrlTts revive, 

Of patient striving and of faith held fast ; 
Here, where tliey died, their buried records live, 
Silent they speak from out the shadowy past." 

Pemaquid: a ballad. 

After leaving Damariscotta the line passes through Nohlehorough (3 
stations) to Wdldnbcrro (Medomack House), which was settled by 1,500 
Germans in 1753- 4. Their descendants still remain in the town, which, 
has over 4,000 inhabitants. Station, Warren, a shipbuilding town, which 



ROCKLAND. Moute U. 301 

was settled by Scotch-Irish in 1736. Station Thomaston {Knox Houses- 
Georges House), sitiiated on a deep narrow harbor, and containing the 
Maine State Prison. The prison was established in 1824, and up to 1872, 
1,100 convicts bad served tlipir time out, 390 had been pardoned, 18 had 
escaped, and in that year 128 convicts remained within its walls. 

In 1720 a fort was built here (near the present railway-station), and garrisoned 
and armed with cannon by Mass. It was luriously attacked by the Tarratine In- 
dians in 1722, and, an assault led by French nidnks having been disastrously re- 
pulseil, a mine was dug. This work was so unscientiheally done that it fell in 
on the besiegers, who retired in confusion. In midwinter of 1723 it was again 
beleaguered vainly for 30 days, and in 1724 it was attacked by a fleet of 22 vessels 
(captured fishermen). A sharp naval skii'iaish was fought with colonial relief- 
ships, which were forced to retire, greatly damaged by the Indian artillery. But 
1he fort still held out and repulsed every attack, and stood until the Revolution, 
when it was demolished bj' the British. Gen. Waldo (who died ui 1759) obtained 
possession of the Muscongus Patent, embracing a tract of 30 M. wide on each 
side of the Penobscot, and settled the peninsulas with Germans and Scotch-Irish- 
This tract came into possession of Gen. Knox through his wife, who was the 
heiress of part of it, and about 17'.i3 lie built here the finest mansion in Maine, 
and lived in baronial state, entertaining numerous guests with splendid hospi- 
tality. 

Henry Knox was born in Boston in 1750, and became a skilful military en- 
gineer and artillerist. He was conuuiinder of the artilleiy of the Continental 
Army, engaged in most of the inii)ortaut battles and sieges of the Revolution, 
and was Secretary of War from 1785 to 1795. He originated the first and only 
order of American chivalry, tlie Society of the Cincinnati, was strongly aristo- 
cratic in his tastes, ami demanded tiie ol)servance of the etiquette of a palace at 
his manor in Tlioinaston. Tlie Knox mansion stood close to the jiresent railway- 
station (which was one of the oflices of tlie estate), and was demolished in 1872. 

Stages run from Thomast(ni to the ancient jieninsular towns of Gushing and 
Friendship, on Muscongus Bay ; also to St. George, a historic old town, which, 
projects into tlie sea, and is near the islands which Weymouth named St. George's 
(in 1604). Weymouth set up a cross (Anglican) on these shores, and wrote, " I 
doubt not .... it will i)rove a very flourishing i)lace [Maine] and be re- 
plenished with many faire townes and cities, it being a province both fruitful and 
pleasant." In 1724, 16 soldiers from the Thomaston Fort, led by Capt. W^inslow, 
were ambushed and destroyed among St. George's Islands, and in 1753 a strong 
stone fort was built on this peninsula. 

The train soon reaches Bockland {Thorndike Hotel), pleasantly situ- 
ated on Owl's-Head Bay, looking out on Penobscot Bay. Tliis city has 
8,500 inhabitants, 4 banks, 4 weekly papers, 8 churches, a new Court 
House, a new granite Post-Office, and a coidIous supply of water from the 
beautiful Lake Chickawaukie. Ship-building is carried on, but the chief 
industry is lime-burning, 1,200,000 barrels being made yearly by 1,000 
men, in 82 kilns. The kilns should be seen at night. The environs of 
Rockland abound in picturesque hill and marine scenery. 

Steamboats run to Portland (5 times weekly), Bangor (thrice weekly), Castine, 
Ellsworth, and Maehias (twice), iSlt. Desert and Sullivan (thrice). Stages run to 
S. Tliomaston and the bold cliffs of Owl's Head (4 M.) ; to St. George, Augusta, 
Camden, and Belfast. 

The granite of the adjacent islands is unrivalled for its beauty, compactness, 
and uniformity. Dix Island is a vast mass of granite, where tlie vessels load di- 
rectly from the sides of the ledges. It furnished the stone for the N. Y. and Phila. 
Post-Offices, and the inmien.'ie monolithic columns for tlie U. S. Treasury at Wash- 
ington. The Bodwell Co. at ^■inalhaven and Spruce IleJid furnished the material 
for the new Government building at Cincinnati and the t^tate, ^Var, and Navy 
Pcnartirpiitr- at W'aplijiigfon. 



302 Routed. PORTLAND TO MOUNT DESERT. 



45. Boston or Portland to Mount Desert. 

A new railroad line runs S. E. from Bangor to Ellsworth and Mount-Desert Ferry, 
whence ferry-boats to Bar Harbor, in 8 M. (295 M. from Boston; 10-12 hrs). 
2 trains daily, with Pullman cars. 

Stanch steamships leave Boston nearly every evening (at 5 P. M.), reaching 
Rockland very early the next morning, and there connecting with the steamboat 
for Mt. Desert (in 5 hrs.). 

Passengers leaving Boston on tlie evening express-train (7 P. M. ; Eastern or 
Boston and Maine) reach Portland in time to take the steamboat (wharf close by 
station) for Rockland, Castiue, and Mt. Desert. 

Steamboats leave Bangor Tues., Thurs., and Sat., at 8 A. M., running to Bar 
Harbor in 8 hrs., and touching at Castine, Islesboro, and other points. 

The steamer " Lewiston " leaves Portland at 10 P. M. aud passes over 
ordinarily quiet waters, outside the famous peninsular to^vns of Sagada- 
hoc and Lincoln Counties, to Rockland, which is reached at 5 A. M. The 
tourist should arise as early as j)ossible, to enjoy the scenery of Penob- 
scot Bay. Leaving Rockland, with Owl's Head on the r. and the pictur- 
esque Camden Hills on the 1. , the steamer crosses the broad Penobscot 
Bay, between the insular toAvns of Islesborough and Vinalhaven, and at 
about 7 A. M. reaches Castine (two inns). This is a pretty village on a 
narrow peninsula projecting into the bay, aud its history is of great 
interest. 

Castine. 

This peninsula was called Pentagoet, and was taken by the Pl5Tnouth Com- 
pany for a trading-] lost. There was a Puritan fort here in 1626, and at a later 
day the place was taken by the fleet of D'Aulney, who had been sent out by Car- 
dinal Richelieu and Razilla, to recover Acadia. D'Auhiey built strong fortifica- 
tions here, and withstood a long bombardment from two 5lass. ships under Capt, 
Girling. The next few years are made romantic by the wars of the rival feudal lords, 
U'AuIney and La Tour, the one Catholic and the other Huguenot, in which Pen- 
tagoet and St. John suffered repeated sieges and attacks. In 1674 a Dutch fleet 
took Pentagoet after suffering some losses. In 1667 Vincent, Baron de St. Cas- 
tin, formerly colonel of the Royal Carignau Regiment, and the lord of Oleron, in 
the French PjTenees, came to Pentagoet, married the daughter of Madockawando, 
the Sachem of the Tarratines, and became the apostle of Catholicism among the 
tribes, who revered him more than his creed. In 1688 Sir Edmund Andros, 
with the " Rose " frigate, plundered the settlement, aud St. Castin was ever after 
a bold enemy of Mass. In 1696 lie led his Indians in Iberville's fleet against 
Pemaquid, which he destroyed. After living liere for 30 years, he fought in the 
Nova Scotia campaigns of 1706-7, and tlien returned to France. His son by the 
Tarratine princess became chief of the Penol)scot tribes, and was a peaceful, 
brave, and magnanimous gentleman, who ruled his wild subjects successfully 
until 1721, when he was led prisoner to Boston. He usually wore the Indian 
costume, but sometimes appeared in a superb French uniform. In 1722 he went 
to France, and took possession of his father's jiroiierty, honors, and seigniorial 
rights, and lived until his death on his Pyrenean estates. Lineal descendants 
of the St. Castins have governed the Tarratines until the present (at least until 
1860). The New-Englanders settled at Castine in 1760, and in 1779 it was fortified 
by 650 British soldiers. Mass. sent a powerful force against this point, consist- 
ing of 2,000 soldiers, in 24 transports, convoyed by 19 war-vessels, carrying 344 
cannon. The Americans were twice repulsed from the peninsula, but after losing 
100 men in a third attempt they landed and ojiened batteries. After several days 
of cannonading, 7 British frigates (204 guns) entered the bay, and bore down on 
the crescent line of American ships. After cue broadside the American line was 



MOUNT DESERT. Route 45. 303 

broken, mrl a disgraceful dchandadc ensued. After a hot pursuit among the 
ialuuds and up tlie river, every vessel of the great fleet was taken or destroyed, 
witliout resistance. The army straggled in broken squads to the Kenneliec set- 
tlements, and Commodore Saltonstali was cashiered for the most shameful defeat 
which America ever suifered on the sea. Castine was held by the British from 
1779 to 17S3, and was again taken and held by 4,000 of their troops in the War of 
1812. The history of Castine has more romantic interest than that of any New 
England town, and its soil abounds with tlie relics of 5 national occupations, 
while 5 naval battles have been fought in its harbor. 

Castine is a wealthy town, with neat wide streets and fine residences. 
It is the seat of tlie Eastern Normal School, and has 3 churches. The 
chief business of the people is connected with the sea, in shipbuilding, 
coasting, or the deep-sea fisheries. Faint traces of St, Castin's fort are 
seen, and on the hill behind the village the English Fort George is well 
preserved. The remains of various American batteries and field-works 
are found on the peninsula, while the harbor is commanded by a neat 
little fort recently erected by the United States. Castine is a favorite 
summer-resort, by reason of its seclusion, its heroic memories, its fine 
boating and fishing facilities, and the salubrity of its sea-breezes. 

From Castine the steamer turns S., and roimding Cape Rosier, passes 
through a narrow sound, and stops at Deer Isle, an insular town of 3,400 
inhabitants, devoted to the deep-sea fisheries. The soimd is then crossed 
to Sedgioick, a rugged and thinly inhabited town, beyond which the 
course is S. E. aromid Naskeag Point, and across the island-strewn Bay, 
with Mt. Desert looming in front, and the lofty Blue Hill (950 ft. high) 
on the N. Passing around the lower point of Tremont, S. W. Harbor is 
entered, and the steamer stops at a pier near a great lobster-canning fac- 
tory. Leaving this point, the island shores are rounded, with their re- 
markable rock-bound cliffs and overhanging mountains, to Bar Harbor. 

Mount Desert. 
Hotels. — At Bar i/ar 6or, AVest End; St. Sauveur (125 guests ; 3! 10.50 -21 a 
week) ; Malvern (150 guests) ; Grand Central (S 12-15 ; 3U0 guests) ; Rodick($12- 
16a week ; 600 guests) ; Atlantic (I? 1U.5U - 17) ; Marlborough {$ 10.50-18); Newport 
($14-18); Rockaway ($10-20); Des Isle (.':? 14 -21 ; 100 guests); Belmont (.$ 12 - 
14) ; Lynam ($ 11 -15) ; and many smaller houses, at lower prices. On Green Mt., 
new Summit House, 50 guests. At Eagle Lake, boarding-house for 50 guests. At 
Seal Harbor, Seiis\t\e House (100 guests; $7-10), and Lynam's. At Northeast 
.fl^wftor, Kimball House ($7 111); Manchester House ; Harbor Cottage. At South- 
west Harbor, Ocean House (* 7 -10 a week) ; Island; Stanley; Harbor; Freeman. 
All these charge $ 7 - 12 a week. At Somesville, Mouut-Desert House ($ 6 - 10). 

Mount Desert is an island covering 100 square miles, and is distin- 
guished for its wild and romantic scenery of mountain, lake, and shore, 
and for its curious and poetic history. Politically, it is divided into 3 
towns, with an aggregate of about 4,000 inhabitants, on 60,000 acres of 
land. It is said that there is no point (except Rio Janeiro) on the Atlan- 
tic coast of the Americas, where such magnificent scenery is found, — the 
sublimity of the mountains challenging the eternal grandeur of the sea. 
There are 13 distinct mountain-peaks here, with numerous lakes, while a 
deep, narrow arm of the sea runs to the N. nearly through the island. 



304 Roiite45. MOUNT DESERT. 

The sea-shore by Bar Harbor. The view from the village is very 
pretty, extending across the Porcupine Islands in Frenchman's Bay to 
tlie rolling hills of Gouldsborongh. Tliere are beaches near the village, 
and the high rocky islet across the narrow harbor is Bar Island. The 
beach rambles may be done by the water-side at low tide, but the chief 
points of interest are more easily and safely reached by the roads which 
follow the shore. CromtoelV s Core is nearly H M. S. of the village, and 
has bold cliff-shores, on one of which is seen the rock-figure called the 
Assyrian. The' Indian's Foot (a foot-print in the rock) and the Pulpit 
are in this vicinity. 4 M. S. of Bar Harbor (by a road leading under New- 
port Mt. on the r., and with the Bay and the round-backed and bristling 
Porcupine Islands on the 1.) is Schooner Head, a high, wave-washed, 
clitf, with a white formation on its seaward side, which resembles a 
schooner under sail. It is said to have been cannonaded by a British 
frigate in 1812. The Spouting Horn is a passage worn through the cliff, 
through which the billows sweep in stormy weatlier, and form an inter- 
mittent fountain above the cliff. The Mermaid's Cave is S. of the Head, 
and 1^ M. beyond is * Great Head (gained by a field-path to the 1.), "the 
highest headland between Cape Cod and New Brunswick," with wonder- 
ful cliffs and chasms, and a broad sea-view. Newport Beach stretches 
beyond Great Head to Thimder Cave (entered only by boat), which is m 
the lofty Otter Creek Cliffs. 

6-7 M. N. W. of Bar Harbor are the Ovens, a range of caves in the 
porphyritic cliffs on Salisbury Cove, where the sea has produced some 
fine effects of beach and worn rocks and bright and dripping ledges. The 
Via Mala is a long passage in the neighboring cliffs. At Hull's Cove 
{HvIVs Cove House, $7-10.00 a week), 2 M. N. of Bar Harbor, is a neat 
crescent beach, near which the Gregoires dwelt. Madame Marie Tliei'ese 
de Gregoire was the granddaiighter of the Gascon noble, Condillac, to 
whom the King of France granted Mt, Desert in 1688. In 1785 she 
claimed and received the island, and lived here with M. Gregoire until her 
death (about 1810). From Point Levi, N, of the Cove, a fine view is 
given of Frenchman's Bay, which is 10-12 M. long and about 8 M. wide, 
with Newport and Schoodic Mts. on r, and 1., at its entrance, — "the 
Pillars of Hercules at Mt. Desert," 

* Jordan's Pond is 9 M. S. W. of Bar Harbor, by a road passing 
through Echo Notch. About 8 M. beyond the village a side road to the 
r. is taken, which leads to the lake, situated between the noble cliffs of 
Sargent's Mt. on the W. and Mt. Pemetic on the E., with the Bubble 
Mts. on the N. The banks of this lake furnish the most beautiful pros- 
pects on the island, with rare combinations of the charms of mountain- 
waters and mountain-cliffs. The lake is 2 M. long, and ^ M. wide, and 
affords good trout-fishing. 



GREEN MT. Route ^5. 305 

Ea^le Lake (so named by F. E. Church, the artist) is 2^ M, W. of Bar 

Harbor, and is reached by a path leaving the road near Green Mt. It is 
2 M. long, with Green Mt. on the E., Sargent and tlie Bubble Mts. on the 
S. and S. W., and the bold peak of Pemetic on the S. There are pretty 
sand-beaches on the shores, and the ascent of Mt. Pemetic may be made 
from the S. end. There are many trout in these calm and transparent 
waters. 

* Green Mt. is near Bar Harbor, from which a road leads to the summit 
in 4 M. There is a small hotel on the summit, where accommodations for 
the night may be obtained. " The view from Green Mt. is delightful. 
No other peak of the same height can be found on the Atlantic coast of 
the U. S., from Lubec to the Rio Grande, nor from any other XJoint on 
the coast can so fine a view be obtained. The boundless ocean on the one 
side contrasting with high mts. on the other, and along the shore numer- 
ous islands, appearing like gems set in liquid pearl, form the most promi- 
nent features in tlie scene. White sails dotted over the water glide slowly 
along. We know not Avhat view in nature can be finer than this, where 
the two grandest objects in nature, high mts. and a limitless ocean, 
occupy the horizon. The name of Eden is truly appropriate to this beau- 
tiful place." 20 M. out on the ocean is seen Mt. Desert Rock, with its 
lighthouse bearing a fixed white light. In the W. are the numerous mts. 
of the island, with briglit lakes interspersed, while the Camden Mts. are 
in the distance. It is said that Katahdin is sometimes visible in the re- 
mote N. (100 M. away). Frenchman's Bay, with its many islands, and 
the Gouldsborough Mts. beyond, is outspread on tlie E. It is claimed 
that Mt. Washington has been seen from this point, 140 M. W. Whittier 
thus describes this view (in "Mogg Megone"). 

" The hermit priest, who lingers now And there, beneath the sea-worn cliff, 

On tlie Bald Mount;iin's shrubless brow, On which the Father's hut is seen. 

The pray and thunder-smitten pile The Indian stays his rockinfi; slcilf, 

Wliich marks afar the Deseitlsle, And jieers the hemlock-boiiphs between, 

While eazing on the scenes below. Half trembling, as he seeks to look 

May halt forget the dreams of home. TI))on the Jesuit's Cross and Book. 

There, gloomily against the sky 
Far eastward o'er the lovely ba}'. The Dark Isles rear their summits high ; 

Penobscot's cluste/ed wigwams lay ; And l^esert Kock, abrupt and bare. 

Lifts its gray turrets in the air, 
Beneath the westward turning eye Seen froiii afar, like some stronghold 

A thousand wooded islands lie,— Built by the ocean-kings of old ; 

Gems of the waters ! — with each hue And, faint as smoke-wreath white and thin 

Of brightness set in ocean's blue. Swells in the north vast Katalidin ; 

And wandering from its marsliy feet 
There sleep Placentias group, — and there The broad Penobscot comes to meet 
Pere Breteaux marks the hour of prayer, And mingle with his own bright bay." 

Newport Mt. is near the water, and commands a noble view of *'the 
very many shadowy mountains and the resounding sea." The ascent is 
made from the Schooner Head road. Most of the other mts. have been 
ascended and furnish fine views, while the summit of Kebo (\ hr, froni 
bar Harbor) affords a charming prospect at sunset. 

T 



306 Route 45. SOMES' SOUND. 

S. W. Harbor and Somes' Smind. 

Besides the hotels at the Harbor there are large lobster-packing works 
rear the steamboat wharf. 3 M. S. W. is the celebrated Sea Wall, a 
ridge of large stones thrown up by the sea, 1 M. long, 15 ft. high, and of 
great mdth. 5 M. W. is Seal Cove, a small harbor near a lake which is 
4 M. long and very narrow, imder the spurs of Western Mt. Lmiy Lake 
is 2J M. N. W. from S. W. Harbor, and extends for several miles between 
Beach and Western Mts. Denning's Lake lies about 3 M. from the 
Harbor, and is 4 M. long, with Dog Mt. on one shore and the imposing 
Storm Cliff on Beech Mt. on the other. These 3 large lakes are said to be 
well stocked with fish, and by the near approach of the mts. they afford 
fine scenic effects. 

Beech Mt. is often ascended from S. W. Harbor (a mountain road nms 
nearly to the summit). The view embraces Denning's Lake, Somes' 
Sound, the eastern gioup of mts. , and Frenchman's Bay, on the E. , with 
Long Lake, Western Mt., Blue Hill, Penobscot Bay, and the Camden 
Hills, on the W. The ocean-view on the S. is of limitless extent. The 
bleak summit of Dog Mt. and the easily ascended Flying Mt. command 
extensive prospects over Somes' Somid on the E. Sargent's Mt. and Mt. 
Man sell are sometimes ascended from this point. 

Somes' Sound is an arm of the sea which extends up between the mt. 
ranges, for 7 M., with a width at its entrance of 2 M. The scenery here 
has been likened to the Delaware Water Gap, to the Hudson River at the 
Highlands, and to Lake George. This deep fiord is a favorite sailing 
ground, although caution is necessary on account of the sudden gusts 
which sweep down from the rats. " Somes' Soimd enables us to sail 
through the heart of the best scenery on the Island." Tlie Sound is well 
seen from Clark's Point, at S. W. Harbor, and a road leads near its shores 
to Somesville, at the N. end. After passing the gateway between Dog 
Mt. on the 1. and Mt. Mansell on the r., a broader expanse is entered, 
with Beech Mt. on the 1., and Green Mt. and tlie eastern group on the r. 
Fernald's Point is on the W. shore, and is a pleasant spot, with grassy 
la^\^ls and a cold, clear spring. This was the seat of the Jesuit settlement 
of St. Sauveur, and Father Biard's Spring is still shown. There are 
picturesque cliffs on the mts. in the vicinity, and Flying Mt. rises on the 
W. Somesville is a small village prettily situated at 

the head of tlie Sound. The central lakes and mts. are easily visited 
from this point, and the boating and fishing on the Sound are much prized. 
Somesville is 6 M. from S. W. Hai'bor, 8 M. from Bar Harbor, and 4 M. 
from Fernald'B Point. 

In 1603 Henri IV. of France granted to the Sieur de Monts all the American 
shores between the jn-esent sites of Pliihidelphia and Quebec, under the name of 
Acadia. While De Monts and Cbamplaiu were exploring their vast domain, they 



PORTLAND TO LEWISTON AND BANGOR. Route 46. 307 

hftw the penlcs of this island, which was called Monts Deserts by Champlain. The 
priests Biard and Masse assumed too much autliority at the Port Royal colony, 
and were sternly rebuked l)y its chief, Potrincourt, who said, " It is my part to 
rule you on eartli, and yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to 
lay the colony under interdict, and Potrincourt's son so resented this that they 
left Port Royal on a ship sent from France by Madame de Guercheville, with 
otlier Jesuits on board. Tlie mission band sailed to the S. "We then dis- 
covered that we were near the shore of Mt. Desert, an island which the savages 

call Pemetic We returned thanl^s to God, elevating the Cross, and smging 

praises with the holy Sacrifice of the Mass. We named the ])lace and harbor St. 
Sauveur." (Father Biard.) Historians differ as to the duration of the settle- 
ment, but it was linally broken up by Samuel Argall, Governor of Virginia, who 
surprised the place in a time of profound peace. His 14-gun ship entered the 
Sound "as fleet as an arrow," and took the French vessel after some cannonad- 
ing, Father Du Thet having been shot down at a gun. Tlie English now plun- 
dered the village, broke down the Jesuits' crosses, and carried such of the 
colonists as they could find, captives to Virginia.^ Although granted by Louis 
XIV. to Condillac in 1G88, the island was not resettled until the arrival of Somes 
in 1761. In 17t)'2 Mt. Desert was granted to Gov. Bernard, of Mass., frojn whom 
it was conhscated during the Revolution because he was a royalist. In 1785, ^ 
of the island was granted by Mass. to Sir John Bernard (the Governor's son), and 
soon after the greater part of it was given to the Gregoires, heii's of Condillac. 

Bar Harbor in 1868 contained only the Agamont House and a few 
humble dwellings. Now its sliores are lined with magnificent villas, the 
summer-homes of the Ogdens, Searses, Musgraves, Derbys, Howes, and 
other patrician families ; and inside of these is a great cluster of summer- 
hotels and shops of every grade, with 3 churches, 2 newspapers, a 
skating-rink, a public library, a complicated sewerage system, and a 
water-supply from Eagle Lake. $ 5,000,000 has been invested here, and 
real-estate commands enormous prices. The shore cottages make "a down- 
east Newport ; the great village above is a combination of Bethlehem and 
Old Orchard." 

The Gr ten- Mountain Railway was built in 1883, 6,300 ft. long, to the 
top of Green Mt., 1,532 ft. above the sea, where a comfortable new hotel 
has been built. Buckboards run from Bar Harbor to Eagle Lake, which 
is crossed by a steamboat to the railway station. The average rise is 1 ft. 
in 4^; the maximum, 1 in 3. The summit is visited by 6-8,000 persons 
every season. 

Seal Harbor, facing the ocean and the rocky Cranberry Isles, has 
recently become a favorite resort, and steamboats touch there semi-weekly. 
The adjacent scenery is very interesting. 

Northeast Harbor has the summer-cottages of Bishop Doane, President 
Eliot, and others; and is a beautifully situated hamlet, with the Ejiiscopal 
chapel of St. Mary's-by-the-Sea, 5 M. from S. W. Harbor by road, or 2 M. 
by sea. 

Near Somesville is Roger A. Pryor's summer-home, on an island of 7 
acres. A small steamboat plies on Somes' Sound, and gives fine views of 
its singular fiord-like scenery. 

Sullivan {Wauheaij House; $7-10 a week) is reached by steamboat 
10 M. up Frenchman's Bay from Bar Harbor. It has good facilities for 



307 a Route 46- ISLE AU IIAUT. 

boating, fishing, and driving ; and the marine scenery of Waukeag Neck 
is of remarkable beauty. Mdlbridye is also reached by the Mt. -Desert 
boats ; and Guuldsburo (Baj'-View House). 5 M. E. of the latter is Steuben, 
with a monument commemorating its 29 heroes dead in the civil war. 

Isle au Haut (visited and named by Champlain in 1004) is the farthest 
high land out to sea off the Maine coast. It is nearly 600 ft. above sea- 
level, at its highest point; and commands tine views of the Camden Hills 
and Mt. Desert. The cliffs on the S. side are 90 ft. high; while Duck- 
Harbor Mt. rises direct from the ocean 300 ft. The island lies on the 
route to Mt. Desert, its S. extremity being but ^ M. N. of the straight 
course from Boston to Mt. Desert. It is 7 M. from dreen's Landing, the 
S. village on Deer Isle, where the Mt.-Desert steamers of the Boston and 
Bangor Line touch at every trip. Carver's Harbor, Vinalhaven, is 10 M. 
from Isle au Haut ; and there are semi-daily boats thence to Rockland. 
Isle au Haut lies 24 M. S. E. of Rockland. The passage from Rockland 
to Green's Landing, 24 M.; and from Green's Landing to Thoroughfare 
Harbor on Isle au Haut it is 7 M., the course lying through a picturesque 
and beautiful archipelago. At Green's Landing, boatmen will always be 
found ready to carry passengers to Isle au Haut by either sail or row 
boats. Several of the residents accommodate boarders during the sunuiier 
months. The island presents many attractions to the summer-tourist. It 
is well-wooded; and an equable temperature prevails throughout the sea- 
son, with much less fog than is common farther E. or nearer the mainland. 

Isle au Haut is 6 by 3 M. in area, with a shore-line of 40 M., and from 
a distance resembles the Blue Hills of Milton, and appears wrapped in a 
rich purple haze. The mountain-ridge is well-wooded, and has a con- 
spicuous notch near its crest-line. The island has about 200 inhabitants^ 
clustered in a little jjort at The Thoroughfare, kind-hearted and hospitable. 
A comfortable club-house, having accommodations for 20 guests, was built 
in 1884 at Point Lookout, the N. extremity of the island. It is owned by 
members of the Isle au Haut Company, residing in New York and Boston. 
James D. Barter, James Robinson, William G. Turner, and others will 
take boarders. 

Deer Isle {Sunnyside Hotel, at N. W. Harbor) is a picturesque island, 
10 by 6 M. in area, with 6 hamlets and 3,300 inhabitants, — grave and 
thoughtful people, devoted to fishing and farming. It has ancient forests, 
sea-viewing hills, fine roads, pretty coves, a joyous bracing ])erfumed air, 
low prices, and simple fare. There are many farm boarding-houses; 500 
city-boarders visit the isle every season. The steamer Mt. Desert touches 
daily at Green's Landing, at the S. end of Deer Isle ; and the Henry Morri- 
son- touches at N. W. Harbor on her route from Rockland to Ellsworth. 

Islesboro {Seaside House; Sprarjue) is an archipelago-town in Penob- 
scot Bay, with 1,200 maritime inhabitants. Many summer-visitors are 
fciiiiil hero. 



LEWISTON. ^oute 46. o07 J) 

Mt. Desert to Machiasport. 

After leaving Bar Hartor the steamer crosses Frenchman's Bay and 
l-ounds the bold Schoodic Point. The deep fiords of Gouldsborough and 
Steuben are seen on the N., with the peninsulas which here ruji ont from 
the mainland, and Little Menan Island is passed, with its lighthouse, 
109 ft. high. The maritime village of Millbridge (Atlantic House) is 
reached about 3 hrs. after leaving Mt. Desert. The steamer then crosses 
Narraguagus Bay to Jonesport (Bay View House), a peninsular toAvii 
devoted to fishing and the coasting trade. Englishman's Bay and Machias 
Bay are now crossed, and 3fachias2}ort (Deering House) is reached (by 5 
o'clock, P. M. ). This is a shipbuilding village, with a railroad 8 M, long 
running into the lumber district of Whitneyville. 

Machias (East em Hotel ; Clare's Hotel) is a manufacturing to^vn of 
2,530 inhabitants, on the Machias River, N. of the port. It was fought 
for by tlie English and French in the 17th century, and finally settled in 
1763. The British war- vessel, the " Margaretta," was captured here in 
1775, and Sir Robert Collier's fleet was repulsed in 1777 by the militia and 
the Passamaquoddy Indians. 

46. Portland to Lewiston and Bangor. 

Trains leave the Maine Central station on arrival of the Eastern Railroad trains 
from Boston, some of the cars from Boston passing over on to the rails of the 
Bangor line. One train daily runs to Bangor, and three trains to Lewiston. 

The train runs through the farming towns of eastern Cumberland 
County for IJ hours, passing the stations, Cumberland^ Walnut Hill, 
Gray, and New Gloucester, At Danville Junction the Grand Trunk 
Railway is crossed. 

Station, Auburn (Elm House; Maine Hotel), a prosperous little city 
just across the river from Lewiston. Auburn became a city in 1869, and 
has a population of 6,166, with many large shoe-factories and other 
works. The Androscoggin County buihiings are located here. 

Station, Lewiston (* Z>e- lFi7^ House, fronting on the Park, $2.50 a 
day ; Marston House), a manufacturing city of recent growth, having 
20,000 inhabitants, with 5 banks and a daily paper. The *City Hall is 
one of the finest municipal buildings in New England, and has a lofty and 
graceful tower surmounted by a spire. It fronts on the Park, near the 
De-Witt House. A large water-power is derived from the falls on the 
Androscoggin River, and is utilized mainly by cotton and woollen mills. 
Over $7,750,000 are invested in these works, which turn out $11,000,000 
worth of goods yearly, employnig 7,500 operatives, running 300,000 spin- 
dles, and turning out annually 65,000,000 yards of cotton cloths, 900,000 
3'ards of woollen goods, and nearly 5,000,000 bags. Many French Cana- 
dians are employed here, and the number of young jjeople in the city is 



308 Routers. READFIELD. 

quite notable. The bridge leading to Auburn commands a fine view of the 
Lewislon Falls, where the river breaks over a ledge of blackened gneiss. 

The Liake-Auburn Spring Hotel (SIO - 15 a week) is 5i M. by stage from 
Lewiston (or 8 M. to E. Auburn, and then steamer). Boston to Lake Auburn and 
return, $ 7. It is pleasantly situated on a bold bluff over the lake, and 'MO ft. above 
the sea. The spring water is pure, soft, and laxative, efficient in liver, kidney, and 
stomach diseases. Lake Auburn is 4 M. long. At VV. Auburn (5 M. from Auburn) 
is the Grand- View House, 1,100 ft. above the sea, and looking across to Mt. Wash- 
ington. 

Poland Spring, 3.^, M. by stage from Lewiston Junction (whence a short 
branch runs from the Grand-Trunk line to Lewiston), has recently become the chief 
inland watei'ing-place of Maine. The water (vast quantities of which are exported) 
is singularly pure, and is beneficial for kidney ami stomach diseases, dropsy, scrof- 
ula, &c. The hotel is a huge modern structure, SOU ft. above the sea, with eleva- 
tors, gas, &c., and overlooks a vast region of hills and lakes. Riites, $ 12-20 a week. 

Bates College is back of Lewiston, and has commodious buildings. It 
was organized in 1864, under the care of the Free Baptist Church, and has 
a Theological School attached. There are 12 instructors and 135 students, 
with about 12,000 volumes in the library. 

After leaving Lewiston the train passes through the fanning towns of 
Greene, Leeds (where the Androscoggin Division crosses), Monmouth, 
and "Winthrop ( Winthrop Hotel), a pleasant village, near Lake Marano- 
cook, the chief picnic ground of Maine, a lovely winding lake which is 
9 M. long and 1 M. wide, dotted with picturesque islands. W. of the 
village is Mt. Pisgah, from which the White Mts. are seen. 

Station, Readfield (Elmwood), the seat of the Maine Wesleyan Semi- 
nary and Female College, which was incorporated in 1823, and has 150 
students (both sexes). Stages run to Augusta, Farmington, Fayette, and 
Chesterville. Station, Belgrade (Railroad House), in a town whose sur- 
face is largely composed of lakes. Besides Mesmlomhe Lake, which lies 
near the track (on the r,), there are several others, one of which is between 
Belgrade, Rome, and Vienna, and covers 25 square miles. This lake is 
quite picturesque, with irregular and broken shores, and several islands. 
Stations, N. Belgrade, W. Waterville, and Waterville, where the Au- 
gusta Division of the M. C. Railway unites with the present route (Lewis- 
ton Division). 

Waterville to Bangor, see Route 47. 



BRUNSWICK. Route 47. 309 



47. Portland to Augusta and Bangor. 

Portland to Bangor, 13S M. Two through trains daily, and 4 trains daily to 
Augusta (63 M.). This is the favorite route from Portland to the East, passing 
through the valley of the Kemiebce, and by Brunswick, Gardiner, Hallowell, and 
Augusta. The trains on the Eastern R. R. (Route 37) from Boston make close 
connections at Portland with this line, and some of the cars pass over on to its 
raUs. Time is given at the Portland station for dinner. 

After leaving Portland, the train passes over the suburban plains, and 
stops at Woodford's and Westbrook. The latter is a populous town, 
with 6,630 inhabitants (in 3 villages), and has large paper manufactories 
and works for canning corn, lobsters, &c. Crossing now the farming 
town of Cumberland, the line intersects the Grand Trunk Railway at 
Yarmouth (restaurant at the station), and then passes on to Freeport^ a 
village at the head of Casco Bay, devoted to shipbuilding. The rural 
station of Oak Hill is next passed, and then the train enters Brunswick 
{Bowdoin House ; Tontine Hotel ; restaurant in the station). 

Pe.iepscot was settled in 1628, under a patent from Plymouth, and was soon 
assigned to Mass., under whose protection a flourishing colony settled here. It 
was destroyed by the Indians in 1676, and afterwards the territory was b(iught of 
certain local chiefs. The conflicting claims between the Plymouth patent and 
this later pur(;liase gave rise to the most long and vexatious lawsuit in the annals 
of Maine. The proprietors built Fort George at Pejepscot, and in consideration 
of £ 400 from the province and exemption from taxes for 4 years, tliey maintained 
at the colony a clergyman, a schoolmaster, and a sergeant Avith 15 soldiers. The 
fort was on tlie W. side of the Androscoggin River, at tlie liower Falls, and waa 
called tlie key of Western Maine, since it guarded the favorite pass of the Ana- 
sagunticook Indians. It was erected in 1715, after the town had been destroyed 
a second time (in 1690). In 1722 Fort George was flanked, and the town was once 
more ruined by the revengeful Indians. The Anasagunticooks migrated to St. 
Francis later in the century, and the district was soon reoccupied by the English, 
and in 1737 received the name of Brunswick. 



310 Route 47. BOWDOIN COLLEGE. 

Brunswick is a prosperous town at the falls and the head of tide-water 
on tlie Androscoggin River, and is built on two broad, i)arallel streets. Jt 
has 4,727 inhabitants, with 4 banks, several churches, a weekly paper, 
and numerous luiuber-mills. The river here falls 41 ft. in 3 pitches, af- 
fording a large water-power, part of which is used by the Cabot cotton- 
mills. 

Bowdoin College is located on an elevated plain near the railway-sta- 
tion. This institution was incorporated in 1794, and opened in 1802, with 
an endowment from the State of 5 townships and $ 19,000 a year for 5 
years. It has at present 24 nistructors and 148 students, exclusive of 100 
students in the medical department, witli a library of about ^5,000 volumes. 
The old Massachusetts Hall has been beautifully titted up as a Museum of 
Natural History. The conspicuous building with two spires, which stands 
near the centre of the line, contains the handsomely frescoed chapel, and 
the gallery of statuaiy and paintings. Nearer the station is a large and 
attractive Memorial Hall built of stone, and the Medical School is across 
the road and near the Congregational Church. The pine-groves in the* 
rear of the college are widely known for their sombre beauty, and afiord 
favorite walks for the students. 

The Bowdoin Gallery of raintings. Pierre Baudouin was a Huguenot gentle- 
man from La Rochelie, who landed at Portland in 1687. His grandson, James 
Bowdoin, was a friend of tYanklin, an ardent i)atriot, and Gov. of Mass., 1785-6. 
James Bowdoin the son of the last-named, was a scholar and diploinati.st, and at 
liis death he left to this college 6,000 acres of land, $6,000 in money, and his ex- 
tensive librai-y, philosopliit-al api»aratus, and pictm-e-gaUery. Some of the jtaint- 
tngs have been restored with questionable effect. 

2, Venus equip]iing Cupid, after Titian; 3, Continence of Scipio, N. Poussin 
(perhaps only a tine copy) ; 5, 6, Studio scenes ; 10, Sacking a town, Flemish 
School; 11, Italian scene, Vamhrome; 12, Surgeon and ])atient, attrilmted to 
Bronwer ; 13, Sleeping Cupid, Pupil of Gvido Reni; 15, Italian landscape, N. 
Beryhem; U, l(i, Laiidscaiics ; 17, Infant John the Bajitist, Stella; 18, Dutch 
Dairy Women, FlcmisJb Sdiool ; *19, Interior of a church, Flcmiah School; 21, 
Poultry, Hondekoeter ; 22, Seven Ages of Man, Hogarth; 23, Old Tower, Hogarth; 
24, Ruins, Hogarth ; 25, The Women at the Sei>ulchre, Simon Vouet (painted on 
copper) ; 28, View on the Campagna ; 30, James Madison, Gilbert C. Stuart ; 32, 
Artillery, Wouvermans ; ** The Governor of Gibraltar, Van Dyke (one of his best 
portraits ; the college has refused $ 30,000 for it) ; 35, The Head of John the Bap- 
tist in a charger, after Guido Reni; 36, The Saviour, cojncd from a picture in ilie. 
Roman Catacombs; 37, Mirabeau ; 38, Adoration of the Magi, after Rvhens ; 39, 
Descent from the Cross ; 40, John in the Wilderness ; 44, * Holy Family, either 
hy Raphael, or a fine copy ; 45, Translation of Elijah ; 46, Simon and the child 
Jesus in the Temple, possibly by Rubens; 50, A Scene in the Iiuiuisition, Flemish 
School; 51, Venus and Adon'is,^ after Titian; 53, Cleojjatra ; 56, * The Angel deliv- 
ering Peter from inison ; 57, Diana and Endyniion ; 58, Venus receiving gifts I'rom 
Ceres, attributed, to Rvbens ; 59, Fox and Pheasant ; 60, Combat of Hyena and 
Dogs; 62, Adoration of the Magi, Domenico Franco; 63, Esther and Ahasuerus, 
Franco; 64, Marine view, Flemish; 65, Discovery of Achilles, Teniers ; 66, Land- 
scape, Dutch; 67, Turkish sea-fight, Mauglub ; 68, JMorning on the coast, Laroix; 
70. Cattle, after Paul Potter; 70-89, Portraits of the Bowdoins, who claimed 
descent from Baudoin, the Count of Flanders and Crusader ; 92, Storm at sea ; 93, 
Landscape ; 97, President Harrison ; 98, 99, Italian scenes ; 100, View of Messina ; 
102, Henry Clay ; 104, The Duke of Cumberland, victor at Culloden ; 105, Pilgrim ; 
106. Tlie Walk to Enniiaus ; 107, Peter repentant ; 110, 111, Venetian views ; 112, 
Christ bearing the Cross ; 116, 117, Fi'ench scenes ; 119, Itahan landscape ; 120, A 



AUGUSTA. Route 47. 311 

View on the Rhine ; 12-2, 123, Landscapes ; 126, Bishop Mcllvaine ; 127, 128, Affeo' 
tion and Love ; 131, President Pierce ; 133, Portrait, Copley. 

Franklin Pierce, 14th President of the United States, was in the Bowdoin class 
of 1824, and in that of 1825 Henry W. Longfellow and Nathaniel Ha^vthorne 
were classmates. In the adjacent village, J. S. C. Abbott, the historian, and 
G. P. Putnam, the veteran publislier, were born. The Presidency of the College 
is now held by J. L. Chamberlain, a successful general during the Secession 
War, and Gov. of Maine, 1867 - 71. 

Railroads run from Brunswick to Lewiston, Farmington, and Bath. 

Daily stages run S. 13^ M. to romantic and sea-girt Harpswell ; also tri-weekly 
mail 14 M. S. to Orr's Island. 

Beyond Brunswick the main line turns N. , crosses the Androscoggin, 
and approaches the bank of the Kennebec River (seats on tlie r. preferable) 
through the farming towns of Topsham and Bowdoinham, which have lost 
1,100 inhabitants since 1850. Stations, Pdchmond, a busy shipbuilding 
village near the site of Fort Richmond (erected in 1 719), S. Gardiner, and 
Gardiner (/oAnsoTC House; Evans House). This is a city of 3,403 in- 
habitants, with 4 banks, 2 weekly papers, 7 churches, and several small 
factories. The chief industries of Gardiner are in sawing lumber in sum- 
mer and ice in winter, and immense ice-houses maybe seen on the banks 
of the Kennebec. The Common contains 5 acres, and is situated on 
Church Hill (125 ft. above the river), which commands a pleasant view. 
The slopes of this hill are lined with residences, while the stores are on 
the riverward plain, and the factories are along the water-power given by 
the Cobbosee Contee River. This place was settled in 1760, and was 
named in honor of the family which o^vned its territory. 

Station, Hallo well {Hallowell House, near the station), a quiet little 
city on the banks of the Kennebec, with 3,008 inhabitants, 4 banks, a 
weekly paper, and 6 churches. It has a few small factories, but is chiefly 
noted for the extensive quarries of white and light gray granite, back of 
the city, in which 250 men are employed. 900,000 yards of floor oil-cloth, 
and 2,500,000 yards of cotton cloths are made yearly here. Hallowell 
was first permanently settled about 1754, and was named in honor of its 
chief proprietor. 

Augusta (* Augusta House, first-class ; Cony House, near the sta- 
tion ; Mansion House), the capital of the State of Maine, is 2 M. N. of 
Hallowell, and at the head of sloop navigation. The city is built on both 
sides of the Kennebec, and contains 7,815 inhabitants, witli 5 banks, a 
daily and 5 weekly papers, 9 churches, and 3 Masonic lodges. The sitii- 
ation of Augusta is beautiful, being on and around the high hills whicli 
border the river. About \ M. above the town is the great Kennebec 
Dam, 584 ft. long, and 15 ft. above high-water mark. Besides improving 
the navigation of the river above, this dam forms an immense water- 
power, estimated at 3,700 net horse-power. It was built in 1836-7, at 
an expense of $300,000, and was at one time owned by A. k W. 
Sprague, the Rhode - Island manufacturers, who erected large and 
costly factories in the vicinity. The commercial part of Augusta lies 



312 Route 47. AUGUSTA. 

along the r. bank of the river, on Water St. , while the heights above are 
occupied by mansions and public buildings. The handsome Congrega- 
tional Church, of granite, is on the verge of the ridge, and not far from 
the High School building. Farther S., on State St. (which runs along 
the heights), are the fine granite buildings of Kennebec County, and be- 
yond these is the * State House. This elegant structure is built of white 
granite, mostly derived from ledges of the same material on which it is 
founded. It is situated on a high hill, which commands a beautiful view, 
and is surrounded by well-ornamented gromids. It was built in 1828 - 31, 
with a solidity Avhich is rarely encountered in American public works, 
and its principal external features consist of a rustic basement, support- 
ing a colomiade of 10 monolithic columns of the Doric order, while above 
all is a graceful dome. Tlie Rotunda is first entered, — a neat hall sup- 
ported by 8 columns, and draped with 80 storm-worn and battle-torn 
flags which were borne by the Maine regiments in the War for the Union. 
It is said that not a flag was lost by the Maine troops in the war. Tlie 32 
pennons of the cavalry and artillery are arranged on the side-walls, while 
in the adjacent lobbies are 10 rebel flags which were taken in action by 
the troops of Maine. Under the chandelier in the centre of the hall is a 
neat little fountain, whose basin is stocked with trout. On the walls are 
portraits of Governor Pownal, Sir William Pepperell, Senator Rufus King, 
Gen. Knox, and Presidents Washington and Lincoln. On one side of the 
hall is a fine bust of Gov. Chamberlain, by Jackson, From the second 
story access may be gained to the halls of the Senate and House of Repre- 
sentatives, and on the S. side of the third story is the State Library, con- 
sisting of 23,000 vohimes. Still higher up is the dome, from whose sum- 
mit (easily accessible) a fine view is enjoyed. On the S. is seen HalloweU, 
over broad reaches of the silvery Kennebec ; on the W. are high, wooded 
hills ; on the N, is the white city of Augusta divided by the river ; and 
on the E. is the Kennebec, with the U. S. Arsenal on the meadows be- 
yond, and the Insane Hospital on the heights. 

The State Insane Hospital is a noble granite building on the heights E. 
of the river, and situated in extensive ornamental grounds. It cost 
{§ 300,000, and accommodates 300 patients, many of whom lighten the 
hours of their seclusion from the world by working on a large farm which 
pertains to the Hospital. The building is 262 ft. long, and was erected in 
1850 - 52, after the destruction by fire of the old Hospital, in which 27 
patients and a keeper were burnt. Near this point is the Kennebec Arse- 
nal, where the United States keeps several tliousand stand of arms, with 
many cannon and other mimitions of war. There are several neat build- 
ings here, and the grounds are by the river-side and are well arranged. 
The Hospital and Arsenal being in the E. wards of the city, are reached 
by crossing the long bridge near the foot of Water St., from which are 
afforded views of the slender and graceful iron railway-bridge. 



AU(; U.iTA. Roni^ 47. 3 1 3 

Togus Springs are al)ont 4 M. to the S. B., and were formerly a sum- 
mer-resort of cousielerable local fame. In 1S6G a National Asylum for 
disabled volunteer soldiers was established at this beautiful place, at an 
expense of §300,000. A farm of 600 acres is attached to the Asylum, 
and 500 men can be accommodated here, although but 200 are now 
present. 

Augusta occupies part of the ancient domain of the Cushnoc clan of the Can- 
ib.'is tviVje of the Abeua([ui nation Oi Indians. It was in the Kennebec Patent 
granted to the Plymouth Colony in 1029, and was settled before 1054, but aban- 
doned and laid waste in 1076 (King Philip's War). In 1716 a stone fort was built 
liere, and abandoned in 1724 (Lovewell's War), and in 1754 Fort Western was 
built on the E. bank of the Kennebec River. This Avas a strong fort, surrounded 
by pali;5aded outworks garnished with towers, and in the autumn of 1775 it was 
occupied by Benedict Arnold, who crossed the wilderne.ss to Quebec with 1,100 
men (New-Englanders and Virginians). His conunaud rested here for some time, 
and m.xde batteaux in which the Kennebec was ascended to a point above Mols- 
cow. Along portage then toolc the forces to the Dead River, which was ascended, 
amid fearful hardships hy hunger, cold, and exposui'e, to its head-waters. Another 
portage carried them to Lake Megantic (in Canada), whence the Chaudiere River 
■was de.scended, and Arnold's little, army of gaunt and ragged lieroes arose like an 
apparition from the savage southern wilderness before the walls of Quebec. 

Augusta prospered in" the arts of peace until the outbreak of tlie yecession 
War, in ISiil, after which it became a central rcmlezvous for the troops of the 
State. Among the regiments which formed and encamped here was the Sth 
Maine, wliich foaglit in South Carolina and Florida, lost 95 men at Drury's Blulf, 
SS at Wier's Bottom, and 100 at Cold Harbor, bearing meanwhile the colors pre- 
seiiLed to them by the Governor of Maryland, at Annapolis. Also the 9th Maine, 
which fought in S. Carolina, stormed the Morris Island batteries at dawn, and 
took tlie colors of the 21st S. C, lost 100 men in the repulse from Fort Wagner, 
and was decimated at Cold Harbor. Also tlie famous 1st Maine Cavalry, which 
fonglil at Brandy ytation, Aldie, Luray, Middleburgh, and in numerous raids 
and outpost attacks, losing many hundred men. 

Augusta is 98 M. from Kittery ; 142 M. from Eastport ; 207 M. from Fort Kent ; 
59 M. from Bangor ; 52 M. froiir Portland ; and 182 M. from Presque Isle. The 
State, of which it is the capital, has an area greater than that of the other five 
New England States combined. 

Steamers run between Augusta, Ilallowell, and Gardiner, connecting there with 
the Star of the East^ for Boston, and the ports lower down on the Kennebec 
Kiver. 

Sui'-'es run from Augusta to W. Gardiner, Litchfield, Webster, and Lisl)on Falls ; 
to Winthrop and Wayne ; to Manchester, Readticld, Mt. Vernon, Fayette, Vienna, 
Chesterville, and Farmington ; to Belgrade, Rome, and New Sharon ; to S. Vas- 
sulboro, China, Alljion, Unity, Tnjy, Dixniont, Newliurg, and Bangor ; to 
Windsor, Palermo, Liberty, Montville," N. Searsmont, Belmont, and Belfast (42 
M., fare $3.00) ; also across Lincohi County to Rockland and Damariscotta. 

At Augusta the line crosses the Kennebec on a light and graceful iron 
briilge, and follows the beautifid river for over 20 M. (seat on the 1. side 
preferable). Station, Vasscdbnro (small inn), a manufacturing village in 
a large and prosperous town, which is jjleasantly diversified by hills and 
ponds, and has on the E. Cliina Lake,., which is about 10 M. long and 
atfords good fishing. The lake is almost cut in two by projecting points 
at the Narrows, and empties by the Seliasticook River. S. China is a 
pretty village at the S. end of the lake, with a tavern, a church, and 3 
stores. 

14 



314 Rmdeip. WATERVILLE. 

Beyond Vassalboro, the train passes through Winslow, and crosses the 
Kennebec near its confluence witli the Sehasticook. The niins of Fort 
Halifax are seen on the blnflf point just S. of the union of the rivers. 
Tt.is fort was one-of a chain erected by Mass. to defend the Maine coast 
from French raids. It was built by Gov. Shirley in 1754, and garrisoned 
by 130 men, imtil its abandonment, after the Peace of Paris (1763). 
Large Indian settlements formerly occupied the intervales in this vicinity, 
and as early as 1G76 envoys of Massachusetts came here to detach the 
tribe from Khig Philip's Confederation, — an imsuccessful attempt, 

Waterville {^Elmwood House, $7-18 a week), a city of 5,000 in- 
habitants, near the Taconic Falls on the Kennebec River, is built along 
rambling streets on a broad plain above the river, and has some handsome 
resiliences. Near the station are the buildings of Colby University 
(founded in 1813), which has 9 instructors and 150 students, with a li- 
brary of 20,000 volumes. This institution is under the care of the Baptist 
Church, and besides the usual barrack-like dormitories of American 
colleges it has two handsome new stone buildings. On one side is the 
new granite Scientific Department, while the other wing of the line is 
occupied by a fine stone building with a tower. The lower j)art of this 
edifice is occupied by the library, while the upper part is consecrated as 
a Memorial Hall. On one side of this hall is a fine monument by Mil- 
more, representing a colossal dead lion, transfixed by a spear, with an 
agonized face, and with his paw resting on the shield of the Union (an 
adaptation of Thorwaldsen's Lion at Lucenae). Below this large and 
beautiful work is a tablet (also of marble) containing the names of 20 
former students who fell in the War for the Union, with the inscription, 

" Fratribus etiam in cineribus carig quorum noniina intra incisa sunt, quiquo 
in bello civili pro reipuhlicie integritate ceoiderunt, lianc Tabulam posueruut 
alumni." The Memorial Hall is to be decorated with pictures. 

A branch railroad runs from AVaterville to Skowhegan (see Route 42), and at 
this point the Lewiston Division of the Maine Central Railway (Route 46) unites 
with the present route (the Augusta Division.) Stages run hence to many rural 
villages. The Somerset R. R. runs N. from W. "Waterville. 

In running from Waterville to Bangor the train passes Kendall's Mills, 
or Fairfield, Station, and soon after the track of the Skowhegan Division 
turns off to the 1., and the present route (Bangor Division) crosses the 
Kennebec on a high bridge. Stations, Clinton and Burnham. 

From Burnham the Belfast Division of the Maine Central Railway runs S. E. to 
the city of Belfast (see Route 48), in 35 M. passing through the farming towns of 
Waldo County, Unity, Thorndike, Brooks, and Waldo. 

Beyond Burnham the line follows the Sebasticook River to the station, 
Pittsjield (Lancey House ; daily stage to Palmyra, Hartlaud, St. Albans, 
Harmony, Ripley, and Cambridge in 20 M., fare $ 1.50. ) Stations, Detroit, 
and Newport {Shaw House), a prosperous village on the shores of East 
Pond, which is 15 M. around and affords good fishing. The Dexter 
Division of the Maine Central Railway runs N. to Dexter. 



BANGOR. Route Jjl/. 315 

To the S. are the high hills of Dixmont, and the train passes on by 
E. Newj^ort, Etna, Carmel, and Hevmon Fund to 

Bangor. 

Hotels. — * Bangor House, on the heights, $2-250; Penobscot Exchange; 
Bangor Exchango ; American. 

Steamers leave daily (except Sunday), from June 1 to Oct. 15, for Boston, 
stopping at river-ports ; 2, 3, or 4 times a week other portions of the year. 

Railroads. — The Maine Central, to Portland and Boston, 246 M. (by Eastern 
R R ), in 10 hrs. ; to St. John, 205.\ M. in 12 hrs. ; the Bangor and Piscataquis R. R. 
to Moosehead Lake, in 6 hrs. ; the Shore Line, to Ellsworth and Mt. -Desert Ferry, 
8 M. from Bar Harbor, Mt Desert. . ^ •,„ . 

Stages run to Hampden, Frankfort. Prospect, Stockton, Searsport, and Belfast 
(30 M fare $2.50 ; leaves early in the morning) ; to Monroe ; to Newburg, Dix- 
mont, Troy, Unity, Albion, and China ; to Exeter : to Kenduskeag, Corinth, and 
Charleston ; to Glenbnrn, Brownville. and Katahdin Iron Works ; to Brewer, 
Eddington, Clifton, Amherst, and Aurora. 

Bangor, the second city in Maine, and the second lumber-mart in the 
world, is a handsome city situated on commanding hills at the head of 
navigation on the Penobscot River. It is about 60 M. from the sea, and 
is divided into two parts by the deep ravine m which flows the Kendus- 
keag Stream. The business part of the city is situated on the level land 
adjoining this stream on both sides, and has many massive and substantial 
commercial buildings, since Bangor is the trade-centre for a larger area of 
country than is fed by any other New England city. It contains 20,000 
inhabitants (in 1800 it had 277), with 11 banks, 2 daily and 4 weekly 
papers, 5 insurance companies, 5 Masonic lodges, 43 schools, and 14 
churches. The heights on eitlier side of the Kenduskeag are lined with 
well-sliaded streets, and have many handsome residences, while there are 
several well-built churches in the same localities. The Custom House and 
Post Office, on the Kenduskeag Bridge, is a neat granite structure. There 
are 240 men engaged in iron-works here, and 150 in the shoe-manufactur- 
ing trade, besides which the city has several small factories and ship- 
yards, with a lucrative coasting and foreign tratle. The products of the 
rich alluvial basin of the Penobscot are handled here, although, on account 
of the severity of the climate in this high latitude, but a small portion of 
tlie valley is under cultivation. The tributaries of the Penobscot pene- 
trate the great Maine Forest in every direction, and bear downward to 
Bangor inmiense quantities of lumber, in the sawing and shipment of 
which the city finds its chief industry. The booms in which the descend- 
ing logs are caught extend for miles along the river, and a great number 
of saw-mills are in operation along the shores. Up to 1855, 2,999,847,201 
ft. of lumber had been surveyed at Bangor; between 1859 and 1869, 
1,869,965,454 ft of. long lumber were shipped hence; in 1868 alone, 
274,000,000 ft. of short lumber (clapboards, laths, and shingles) were 



316 Route 4S. BANGOR 

shipped; and iii 1872, 240,500,000 ft. of long lumber were surveyed liere. 
The lumber crop of 1372, in Maine, was about 700,000,000 ft., of which 
225,000,000 floated doA\Ti the Penobscot, and 100,000,000 passed down 
the Kennebec. To transport tliis immense amount of lumber to its des- 
tined markets, fleets of hundreds of vessels come up to the city, where 
there is a broad expanse of deep water with tides rising over 16 ft. 

The Theological Seminary Avas chartered by the State of Mass. in 1814, 
and is under the care of the Congregational Church, though its teaching 
is non-sectarian orthodoxy. It occupies buildings fronting on a broad 
campus, in the highest part of the city, and has 5 professors, 40-50 
students, and about 600 alumni, wdth a library of 13,000 volimies. ^Vo- 
rumbega Hall is on the Kenduskeag Bridge ; its lower portion being used 
as a market, while in the upper hall 2,000 persons can be seated. Music 
Hall is on Main St. 

It is said that Champlain ascended the Penobscot as far as the site of Bangor, 
in IGOS. Tlie settlement was made between 1769 and 1775, and in 1791 Rev. yeth 
Noble, its representative, was ordered by tlie i)eople to luive it incorporated under 
the name of iSunbury. Mr. Noble, however, was very fond of the old tune of 
"Banj^or," and (perhaps inadvertently) had that name given to the new town. In 
1814 the town was taken by a British squadron, after the destruction of the " Joliu 
Adams" : in IS '.?. it became a eity ; and in 1848 it was declared a port of entry. 
The 2d Maine regiment was raised in ISul around Bangor, and received supe'b 
colors from the ladies of New York, Baltimore, and San Francisco. The latter 
flag was the finest m the army, and was the centre of a terrific fight at Bull Run, 
in which the color-guards were all killed, and the opposing regiment (the 7th 
Georgia) was "nearly annihilated." The flag was not lost, and the regiment was 
the last on the field. At Gaines' Mill tliis command took the 5th Alabama flags, 
and at Fi-edericksburg it lost ^ of its rank and file. 

Glenburn {Perch House) is 10 M. N. of Bangor, on Pushaw Pond, which has 
considerable local fame for its tine fishing. 

43. Boston to Bangor. The Penobscot River. 

Py the Boston and Bangor Steamship Co. (6 steamer?), leaving Foster's Wharf, 
Boston, June 1 to Oct. 15, daily (Sundays excepted), at 5 P. M. Boston to Hooklai'd, 
Si 2.50; to Bangor, .•? 3 50. See new tiuie-table.«. Band and orchestra attached to 
steamers during .July and August. The new buildings on Foster's Wharf are con- 
venient and comfortable Tlic steamships are large and commodious, and the 
voyage is along the most interesting sections of the historic New-England coast. 

In calm weather the outside route is very pleasant. The steamer 
passes down Boston Harbor (see page 20) and out on the open sea, ap- 
proaching Cape Ann and Thacher's Island (Route 36) at late twilight. 
The early riser next morning will see the bold shores of Moidiegan Island, 
far out in the ocean. This island was settled in 1618, and had a Stirling 
history for more than a century, but now lias only a few score of inhab- 
itants, mostly engaged in the deep-sea fisheries, or wringing scanty crops 
from the rugged thousand acres on the bluffs. The steamer now passes 
in by the historic peninsulas of Knox County, leaves Vinalhaven on the 
E., and rounding Owl's Head, roaches Rockland, 175 M. from Boston 
(see lioute 44). The steamers here connect closely 



BELFAST. R(Mte48. 317 

with the steamer for l.It. Desert. After leaving Rockland, and passing 
Rockport ou the 1., the steamer approaches a cliaiu of lofty hills, and 
enters the harbor of Camden {* Bay View House, 100 guests, $2.00 a 
day ; West Mt. Home), This is a pretty town, with 5 villages, 4,500 in- 
habitants, and 9 churches. It was visited by De Monts in 1*304, and by 
Weymouth in 16U5, was named in honor of Lord Camden, America's 
friend in Parliament, and was fortified in 1812 to check the British at 
Castine. Pring coasted by this place iii 1603, and reported it ''a high 
country, full of great woods," and such it still is. The tvN^o Megunticook 
peaks rise back of the town to the height, respectively, of 1,335 and 1,457 
ft., while Mts. Pleasant, Batty, Hosmer, and others complete the group. 
Tlie * view from Megunticook is one of the noblest of marine prospects, 
embracing the blue Penobscot Bay with its archipelago, Mt. Desert far in 
the E. and a vast sweep of tlie ocean on the S. E. 

Tlie steamer runs N. for 18 M. between the shores of Lincolnville and 
Nortliport, and the insular town of Islesborough, and stops at Belfast 
{American House ; New England House). This is a handsome little 
city (5,278 inhabitants) built on a declivity which slopes to the water, 
with wide, shady streets, and several commercial blocks built of brick. 
It has 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, 6 churches, several shipyards, and the 
Waldo County buildings. 

This port was discovered by Wej^mouth in 1605, who set up a cross (Anglican) 
here, and wrote that "jnauy who had been traveUers in sundry countries and in 
most famous rivers, affirmed them not comparable to this, — the most beautiful, 
rich, large, secure, harbor inj| river tliat the world affordeth." Belfast was settled 
and iKuned in 1770 by Scotch-Irish Presbyterians from Londonderry (N. H.), and 
was abandoned in 1779, after attacks by the British at Castine. It was resettled 
in 1786, and invested by the British in 181-i. In 1865, a destructive fire swept 
over its business quarter, and between 1860 and 1870 its population decreased by 
250. 

Castine is seen far across the bay to the E. as the steamer nms up 7 
M. to Searsport (small hotel), a maritime to^vn with nearly 3,000 inhabi- 
tants, under the lee of Brigadier Island. 

Passing out into the liay, with the historic peninsula of Pentagoet 
(Castine) on the E., the bold shore of Fort Point is soon reached. Here, 
in 1758-9, Gov. Pownall erected a powerful fort for the defence of the 
Penobscot. It was the best fort in Maine, and its construction was paid 
for by Parliament. The British frigate " Canseau " partly demolished it in 
1775, and in 1779 Capt. Cargill, of the American army, fuiished its de- 
struction. Some remains of the fort are still visible. 

The * Fort-Point Hotel is finely situated on this promontory, near the ruins 

of Fort Pownal and the seal-abounding Odom's Ledge, with beautiful views over 
the island-strewn Bay, the blue Camden Mts., and Castine. It is a lirst-class 
summer resort, with 125 rooms and a frontage of 150 ft. There are good con- 
veniences for boating, bathing, fishing, and driving. 

Now steaming N., Wetmore Island is passed on the r. (a barren tract 
with al)ont 400 inlinbifants v.'lio live by fishing and hunting), an.l thp 



318 Route 40. OLDTOWN. 

river seems to end, so rapidly does it contract. As the swift tides of 
Bucksjiort Narrows are entered, a sndden turn reveals the bright vUlage 
of Bucksport {Robinson House ; Riverside House), a shipbuilding and 
fishing place with 3,433 inhabitants. This town was settled by Col. 
Buck, of Haverhill, in 1764, and now has two banks, a custom house, 
several churches, and a lucrative county trade. On the hill above the 
village is the E. Maine Conference Seminary, a Methodist School with 
3 _ 400 students, from whose lawn beautifid river- views are afforded. On 
the bluff opposite Bucksport is Fort Knox, an immense and costly forti- 
fication lately built by the U. S., which completely commands the river 
with its heavy batteries. 

Stages run from Bucksport to Mt. Desert (see Route 45), in about 80 M., pass- 
ing through Ellswortli {American House), a city of 5,260 inhabitants, the capi- 
tal of Hancock County. A railroad runs N. to Bangor. 

The river now grows more narrow and picturesquely sinuous, while 
vessels are frequently passed. Winterjiort (Commercial House) is reached 
5 M. above Bucksport, after passing Mt. Waldo and the granite-producing 
shores of Frankfort on the W. 7 M. beyond, the steamer stops at Hamp- 
den (Penobscot House), where the U. S. corvette "John Adams," 24, was 
attacked (while refitting) in 1814 by a small British fleet. Capt. Morris, 
of the "Adams," had armed shore-batteries with his ship's guns, but the 
badly officered rural militia were speedily routed by a bayonet-charge of 
the British regulars. Morris then spiked his guns, blew up his ship, and 
retreated with the sailors to Bangor. The British plundered and overran 
Hampden for 3 days. Soon after leaving Hampden, the steamer reaches 
(about noon) the city of Bangor (see Route 47). 

49. Bangor to St. John. 

By the Maine Central and New Brunswick Railways, 205^ M. Passengers on the 
through train from Boston (by Routes 37 and 47), the celebrated " Flying Yankee,*' 
go through in 22 hrs. (450 M.). Pullmans on day-trains, and sleeping-cars at night. 

Seats on the r. side of tlie car afford views of the river. After leaving 
Bangor, the train passes Veazie and other stations, with the river covered 
with booms and immense rafts of timber, and lined with saw-mills. Sta- 
tions, Orono (the seat of the State Agricultural College), and Oldtown 
(two inns), a place of about 4,000 inhabitants, mostly engaged in the 
lumber business. Tlie immense and costly booms and mills should be 
noticed here. 01dto^vnhas the largest lumber-mill in the world, where 
100 saws are at work turning the rude logs which come in at one side into 
planks, which are rafted away to Bangor. On an island near the village 
(ferry-boat on the shore) is the home of the TaiTatine Indians, one of the 
three tribes of the Etchemin nation. Though the most powerful and war- 
like of the northern tribes, the Tarratines rarely attacked the colonists. 



FREDERICTON. Route Ifl. 319 

After a series of wrongs and insults from the whites, they attacked the 
settlements in 1678, and intlicted such terrible damage and loss of life 
that Maine became tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After de- 
stroying Pemaquid to avenge an insult to their chief St. Castin, they re- 
mained quiet for many years. The treaty of 1726 contains the substance 
of tlieir present relations with the State. Tliey own the islands in the 
Penobscot, and have a revenue of $6-7,000 from the State, which the 
men eke out by working on the lumber rafts, by hunting and fishing, 
while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The declension 
of the tribe was marked for two centuries ; but it is now slowly increasing. 
The island-village is without streets, and consists of many small houses 
built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons there, most 
of whom are half-breeds. 

At Oldtown the line crosses the Penobscot on a high bridge, and enters 
Milfiird, a lumbering village. The 1. bank of the Penobscot River is now 
followed for 45 M. to Mattaioamkeag, through a succession of thinly popu- 
lated towns, Greenbush, Passadumkeag, Enfield, Lincoln, and Winn, 
whose inhabitants are mostly engaged in lumbering. Mattawamkeag (two 
inns) is a small village at the confluence of two rivers. 

Stages run 38 ]\I. N. through the Avilderness to Patten (small inn), the outpost 
of I'ivilizition nearest to Mt. Katahdin, a lone peak which rises out of the wilder- 
ness to a height of 5,HS5 ft. 

Stages also run N. B. through the forest, crossing 8 townships, to Houlton. 
Stages run from Liucohi to Springfield, Carroll, Topsficld, and Calais. 

The railway now follows the Mattawamkeag River, and nms through 
the forest (almost unbroken) for 58 M. to Vanceboro ( Vnnceboro 
Ilmtse ; restaurant in the station). Weston is a post-town on the Calais 
and Houlton mail-stage line, with 400 inhabitants and a hotel. This point, 
which may be reached from Bancroft or Danforth, is near the shore of the 
Grand Schoodic Lake, where fine fishing is afforded. Vanceboro has good 
troutiug on the St. Croix River, and soon after leaving this village the 
train crosses the St. Croix and enters the Province of New Brunswick. 
At McAdam Junction the New Brunswick and Canada Railroad is crossed, 
and the train passes on through a monotonous wilderness to Douglas Mt., 
in Wftlsford, beyond which the St. John Valley is entered, and the river 
is followed down to St. John, 91 M. from Vanceboro. 

By changing cars at Fredericton Junction, travellers pass in 1 hr. to 
Fredericton {Queen's Hotel; Barker's). Fredericton is a small city of 
6,000 inhabitants, beautifully situated on the St, John River, and distin- 
guished as the political capital of the Province. The Government House 
is a plain and dignified stone building in extensive grounds just N. of the 
city, and the Parliament House is a modern structure near the deserted 
barracks. The University of New Brunswick has fine buildings on a 
commanding hill near tiie city. 



320 Route 40. ST. JOHN. 

* Christ Church Cathedral (Episcopal) is one of the finest on the 
continent, though small. It is of gray stone, in English Gothic archi- 
tecture, and has a stone spire, 178 ft. high, rising from the junction 
of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, and the chancel 
has a superb window of Newcastle stained glass, presented by the 
Episcopal Church in the United States. In the centre is Christ cruci- 
fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, 
and Andrew on the r. In the church tower is a chime of 8 bells, each 
inscribed, 

" Ave, ■Pater, Rex. Creator, Ave, Simplex, Ave, Trine, 

Ave, Fill, Lux., Salvator, Ave, Regnans in Sublime, 

Ave Spiritus Consolator, Ave Resonet sine fine, 
Ave Beata Uuitas. Ave Sancta Trinitas." 

The St. John River. 

"When there is water enough in the river, steamers ascend the St. John River to 
Woodstock, G'2 M. N. W., aiul near Honlton. Steamers leave Fredericton for St. 
John at 8 a. m., arriving tliere at 3 p. m. Distance, about 90 M. ; fare, Si. 00. 

Steamers run daily each way ; also from St. John up the river and into the 
Grand and Washademoak Lakes. 

As the steamer passes into the stream, a beautiful view of the capital 
city, with its Cathedral and University, is obtained. On the opi»osite 
shore is the moiith of the Nashwaak Eiver, where stood a fort which was 
a centre of siege 250 years ago. 11 M. belov/, the village at the mouth of 
the Oromocto Kiver is passed, and the lofty spire of Burton church is soon 
after seen on the r. The boat stops at Sheffield, with its large academy, 
and passes Maugerville, which was settled by Bostonians in 1766. Gage- 
town is next seen, on a bluff opposite the mouth of the Jeinseg River, and 
in a rich farming country. Numerous islands are .passed, and broad in- 
tervales stretch back from the shores. Tlie steamer soon enters the Long 
Reach, which is followed for 20 M., passing the mouth of the Ncrepis 
River, with its fortified point, abandoned for two centuries. At Gi-and 
Bay the scenery grows nobler, and the broad estuary of the Kennebccasis 
River opens to the E. with tine effect. A narrow channel between pic- 
turesque palisades is now entered, and followed on swift waters, until a 
glimpse of the Suspension Bridge is gained on the r. as the steamer rounds 
to her pier at Indiantown, a suburb of 

St. John. 

Hotels. —Hotel Dufferin, King Square, S 2.50 a day ; New Tictoria, Prince.«s St. ; 
Waverley, King St. {^2 a day); Royal ; and several smaller housis. 

Carriagres. — 30 c. a course iu the city ; 50 c. each half-hour. Stajres to 
Indiantown, fare 5 c. 

Kail-ways. — To Fredericton, Bangor, and Boston ; to "Woodstock, Houlton, 
and St. Amlrews ; to Shediac, Halifax, and Windsor. 

Steanicri4. — To Eastport, Poi-flatid. and Bo.ston ; to Dighy and Annapolis; 
to Yai-mouth and Slielburue ; to Halifax ; to Fredericton and Woodstock. 



THE NEW BRUNSWICK BORDER. Route 50. 321 

St. John, the metropolis of New Brunswick, is a city of 29,000 inhabi- 
tants, situated on a rocky promontory between the St. John River and 
Courtnay Bay. Its situation on high liilks renders it very picturesque, 
either from within or as seen from the harbor. The streets are broad and 
straiglit, and King's and Queen's Squares and other open grounds diversify 
the surface of the hills. The city lias some inanufactures and a large 
coast and country trade, ami its water-front is wovtli}^ of a visit. There 
are 8 Episcopal Churches, 3 Catholic, 9 Baptist, G Methodist, 7 Presby- 
terian, and 1 Congregational. The Custom House, the Y. M. C A. build- 
ing, the Orphan Asylum, the Post-Otlice, and Trinity Church, are good 
buildings. The Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (PI. 8) 
is a large stone structure with a lofty spire, and with stained glass 
windows in chancel, transept, and aisles. The ornaments of the choir iu 
colored marble are worthy of notice. Near the Cathedral is the Bishop's 
Palace, and some convent-scliools. From this vicinity Reed's Castle is 
seen, whence a fine view of the city and harbor is obtained. Lily Lake is 
near tiie castle. 

The fa\'orite drives are out over Marsh Bridge to Red Head; to the 
Cemetery and Loch Lomond; and over tlie Suspension Bridge to the 
heights of Carleton. The * Bridge is 640 ft. long and 100 ft. above low 
water, and affords a fine view of the St. John Falls, wliere the river dashes 
down at low tide througli a narrow gorge. At high tide is presented the 
remarkable sight of a river falling up stream, when the tides of the Bay 
of Fundy rush xipward through the gorge far above the river level. 
From the Lunatic Asylmn, or from the JMartello Tower on Carleton 
Heights, a panoramic view of the city, the bay, and the remote purple 
line of the Nova Scotia shore, is given. The Mahogany road is a pleasant 
drive near the Bay. 

Champlaui discovered and named the St. John River on St. John's Day, 1604. 
In 1635 Charles St. Estienue, Lord of La Tour, built a fort here, which was vainly 
attacked by D'Aulney iu 1643, the siege being raised by Massachusetts ships 
attacking U'Aulney. During tlie abstuce of La Tour in 1645, the fort (under 
command of Madame La Tour) repulsed a naval attack, but was forced, later in 
the year, to surrender. Madauie La Tour was made to stand with a rope around 
her neck, while the whole garrison was massacred.i She died within a few 
days, and D'Aulney soon followed her. La Tour married Madame D'Aulney in 
1653, and thus rewon his fort. It was soon captured by the English, and left 
desdlate for a century. In 175S a British garrison was established here, and iu 
1776 tlie men of Machias destroyed the fort and cannonaded the neighiuirinj^ 
village. In 1783 a fleet-full of loyalists rom the United States landed and seUled 
here, and since then the city has grown rapidly. 

50. The New-Brunswick Border, Eastport to Madawaska. 

Eastport may be reached by the International steamers, which leave Boston ;it 
8 A. M., Mondiy, Wednesday, and Friday (in July, Aug., and Sept.), and Portland 
at 6 p. M. on the same days. Boston to St. John, §5.00; Portland to Eastportj 
$.4.00 (180 M.). 

1 See Whittier's poem of" St. John.'* 

1 . *^ U 



322 Route 50. ST. ANDREW. 

Daily stages from Ellsworth to N. Hancock, 6 M. ; Franklin, 12 ; Cherryfield, 30 ; 
Harrington, 37; Jonesboro, 50; Machias,58; E. Macliias, 62; Dennysville, 8U ; 
Pembroke, 86| ; Eastport, 1)7. 

Sastport (* PassamaqiLoddy House) is the coast border-town, and lias 

3,7c!8 inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated on a hilly island in Passama- 

quoddy Bay, and is commanded by Fort Sidlivan, a garrisoned post of the 

U. S. The bay abounds in picturesque islands, the chief of which is 

Campo Bello, opposite Eastj^ort and within the Canadian borders. This 

island is often visited in summer, and has much fine ocean scenery. To 

the S. is Quoddy Head and the Canadian island of Grand Manan (1,800 

inhabitants), 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, with its western shore lined 

by frowning cliffs 3 - 400 ft. high. 

A steam-ferry runs 3 M. S. to ILulbec (Luhec Hotel ; Cobscook House), a quaint 

marine villa;;e witli 9 churches and several summer boarding-houses. It is pic- 
tMresr|UPlv sitnntod on a long ]ieninsnla, and front towar<l Campo Hello Island. 
Orand Maiiaii ("the yiaradise of <-litfs ") is reached by mail-boats from East- 
])oit, ;tnd lias superb coast-scenery. There are several small hamlets at the coves, 
where board may be obtained for $4 -7 a week. 

Stages and steamers run 30 M. N. W. from Eastport to Calais. The 
steamer moves out across the broad and island-studded bay, passing on 
the 1. Pleasant Point (in Perry), the home of the 400 remaining members 
of the Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation of Indians. The first stop- 
ping-place is St. Andrew (with a large new hotel accommodating 300 
guests), a decadent maritime provincial town (3,000 inhabitants), pleasantly 
situated on a long promontory, and having fine facilities for bathing, boat- 
ing, and fishing. St. Andrew is the shire-town of Charlotte County, N. B., 
and is the terminus of the N. B. and Canada Railway. Beyond this port the 
bay narrows rapidly, and Neutral Island (with its lighthouse) is i)assed, 
opposite Robbinston. Henri IV. of France granted Acadia (an indefinite 
district, embracing Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and as much more as 
he could get) to the Sieur de Monts in 1602. In 1604 the grantee brought 
over a colony (mostly of Huguenots) and settled on this island, which 
he fortified strongly. During the mournful winter of 1604-5, 36 out of 
70 of the colonists died, either from scurvy, or from drinking water 
poisoned by the Indians. Remains of De Monts' fort may be seen on the 
island (which belongs to the U. S.). Robbinston village is now touched at, 
and then the steamer passes up by Oak Point and Devil's Head to Calais 
{hiternational Hotel ; St. Croix Exchange). This is a city of about 6,000 
inhabitants, with 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, and 6 churches. It was 
founded in 1789, and has a large shipbuilding and lumber business. 

A railway runs 20 M. N. W. from Calais to Eewey's Island (in Princeton ; two 
inns), whence the picturesque Schoodic Lakes may be entered. The steamer 
" Xaiad " runs (iiTcgnlarly, for lumbe)-ing work) on Lewey's, Big, and Long Lakes. 
There is a large village of Passamaquoddy Indians on one of these lakes, and 
hunting and fishiiig parties from the coast cities often pass the sununer here, 
roughing it in canoes and in the forest. 

Mail-stages run from Calais to Eastjjoi't ; also (daily) through tlie vast and des- 
olate forest to Bangor, 95 M. W. ; fare, i:7.'M ; also (from Princeton) to lloulton. 



WOODSTOCK. Route 50. 323 

A covered bridge leads from Calais to St. Stephen ( Queen Hotel), a 
bright and active town of over 5,000 inhabitants. The citizens of Calais 
and of St. Stephen have ever lived in perfect fraternity, and formed and 
kept an agreement by which they refrained from mutual hostility during 
the War of 1812. 

From this point the N. B. and Canada Kailway nins W. through the 
forest (crossing Route 49 at McAdam Junction) to Dehec, 74 M. distant, 
whence a branch road runs (in 11 M.) to Woodstock, the shire-town of 
Carleton County, N. B. This town has 4,000 inhabitants, and is pleas- 
antly situated on the St. John River, 150 M. from its mouth. A R. R. nms 
through Tobique to Grand Falls, where the river is contracted into a 
narrow gorge between lofty cliffs, and plunges over a succession of rocky 
steps, the first leap being 40 ft. perpendicular (Grand-Falls Hotel). The 
railway continues up the river to Edmundslon (Whitney's Hotel), whence 
stages to Riviere du Loup, on the St. Lawrence River (see Route 56). 

From Debec a branch railroad runs N. W. 8 M. to Houlton {Snell 
House ; Buzzell House), tlie shire-town of Aroostook County, Maine, with 
a population of 2,851, 2 weekly papers, and 5 churches. Houlton is 456 
M. (by railway) from Boston, and has stage-routes running to all parts of 
N. E, Maine. 

Stages run S. through Hodgdon, Amity, Orient, 'Weston (30 M.), and Topsfield, 
to Calais ; through Linneus, Macwahoc, and Mohmkus, to Mattawamkeag ; to 
Smyrna, Rockabema, and Patten (W.) ; by Littleton, Mouticello, Bridgewater 
dinner at Half-Way House), and Woetfield, to Presque Isle ; also N. by Mars Hill 
and Easton, to Fort Fairlield. 

Presque Isle (good hotel) is a forest-village of 450 inhabitants, with 2 
papers ( " Sunrise " and " North Star "), 3 churches, and an academy. It 
is 42 M. N. of Houlton, and is the capital of Aroostook County and the 
centre of its rich farming lands, wliich cover over 500,000 acres, and 
are being rapidly settled on account of its variety, cheapness, and fertil- 
ity. Many Swedes live here, and Madawaska is a populous French dis- 
trict. There is good fishing and pleasant scenery in the vicinity ; and 12 
M. N. E. is Fort Fairfield, on the New-Brunswick Railway, 3 M. from 
Aroostook Falls. Caribou village is picturesquely situated, 12 M. N. 

Stages run from Presque Isle to Houlton ; also (tri-vveekly) to Asliland, 24 M. 
W., whence a lumber-road runs W. by the AUagash Mts. to the Lake of Seven 
Isles, a little above the head of tow-boat navigation on the St. Jolm River and 
over 80 M. from Ashland. This road jiasses through the heart of the great forest. 
"The primeval woods of Maine still cover an extent seven times tliat of the 
famous Blaek Forest of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. Tlie 
States of R. I., Conn., and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, 
and still have about each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide to make the 
exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure." 

Fort Fairfield (small hotel) is on the frontier, on the road running E. from 
Presque Isle to Tobique (N. B.) on the St. John River. It lias nearly 2,000 in- 
habitants, with 5 churches. 

Stages run on the Military Road, to Fort Kent, 84 M. N. W. of Presque 



324 Route 50. MAD AW ASK A. 

Isle. This route crosses and follows tlie Aroostook River to CariTtoii, jind 
then runs for 20 M. through the forest to Van Buren (two inns), a semi- 
French settlement (1,000 inhabitants) on the St. John, and near the 
Grand Falls. The road now turns N. W. and follows the St. John 15 M. 
to Grant Isle, a French village, 10 M. beyond whicli is Madawaska 
(Founder's inn), a village belonging to a large district which has long 
been inhabited by Acadian French, who were expelled from Nova Scotia 
{Acadie) in 1755. There are several thousand of these Catholic and 
"pious Acadian peasants," divided into 4 parishes, and here the tourist 
may perhaps find an "Evangeline." (The poem has been translated inio 
Canadian French, and is popular.) Madawaska and the Eagle Lakes lie 
S. of this village, which is 100 M. N. of Houlton. 26 M. beyond (the 
stage following the St. John River, and passing tlirough Dionne), Fort 
Kent, with its two inns and ruined block-house, is readied. The popula- 
tion is still French, and 20 M. W. is St. Francis, another Acadian village. 
(Stages run occasionally. ) 

Fort Kent is 194 M. from Bangor, and 440 M. from Boston. 



NEW YORK CITY TO THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 

Having described New England and her eastern frontier in the 50 pre- 
ceding routes, it has been thought advisalde to add thereto a brief survey 
of those most interesting regions which lie on the west and north of her 
borders. The tourist might easily arrange a profita:ble and pleasant sum- 
mer-trip, by taking either of the Routes, 3, 8, 19, or 21, to New York, 
thence ascending the Hudson to Albany, and passing to Montreal by way 
of Saratoga and Lakes George and Champlain, whence Quebec and the 
Saguenay are easily reached ; and the return to Boston could be effected by 
either of the Routes, 24 (and 25) or 40 (and 37 or 38.) 

The region between New York and Montreal is m\ich more fully de- 
scribed in Osgood's " The Trliddle States : A Handbook for Travellers," 
which also covers all the territory S. to Washington and W. to Pittsburgh. 
It contains 477 pages and 2.'J maps and plans (price, $1.50). 

The region from Montreal to Quebec and down the Gulf to Prince Ed- 
ward Ishuid, Nova Scotia, and Newfoundland, is carefidly described in 
Osgood's "The Maritime Provinces: A Handbook for Travellers." 
This volume conlains o'i(3 pages, with 8 maps and plans (price, $ 1.50). 
Osgood's " White Mountains " tlioroughly describes the peaks and 
passes, hotels and villages, of the White-Mountain region. 4 maps and 
G panoramas. .'i^i.OO. 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 51. 325 



61. New York City. 



Hotels. The * Windsor is a new, lofty, and eleyant house on upper Fifth Ave. 
(corner of 4Cth St.), cliargin.^; $5 a day. The * Eiiekinghani is a pahitial faniily 
hotel on Fifth Ave., corner of 50th St. (o])]»08ite the new Cathedral). Tlie ♦Ross- 
more is a new and stately hotel (kept hy the Lelands) at the corner of Broadway 
and 42d St. The * Fifth Avenue, on Madison Square (8-900 guests), a va.st and 
superb marble building ; the * St. Nicholas, on Broadway, corner of Spring St., a 
marble building in the Corinthian order, six stories high, cost $1,000,000, and cares 
for 1,000 guests ; the * Metropolitan, on Broadway, corner of Prince, is of brown- 
stone, six stories high, and cost nearly S 1,000,000 ; the * Grand Central, on Broad- 
way between Amity and Bleecker Sts., eight stories high, of marble, and accom- 
modating 1,500 guests ; Hoffman House, on Madison Square, an aristoi'.ratic house, 
caring for 350 guests ; Gramercy Park House, on Grauiercy Park, an innnense 
family hotel, with room for 6-800 guests; Grand Hotel, corner Broadway and 
31st St., an elegant first-class house. These immense hotels are amply supplied 
with all the luxuries of modern American civilization. Their charges are from 
$4.00 to $5.00 a day, with considerable reductions in case of a long sojourn. 
There are several first-class liotels on Union Square : the Everett (European plan) ; 
the Clarendon, patronized by English tourists ; the Union Square ; the Spingler ; 
the Union Place, &c. The New York Hotel, 721 Broadway, is a resort for 
Southern visitors ; the Prescott House, 531 Broadway, acconunodates 300 guests 
and is nmch frequented by foreign tourists ; so is also the ])alatial St. Denis 
Hotel, on Broadway opposite Grace Church. Tlie 8t. Cloud (corner of Broadway 
and 4'2d St.) is a good up-town hotel ; the Gilsey House (Bniadv/ay and 20th St.) 
and the St. James (Broadway and 2Gth St.) are also fine hotels above Madison 
Square. The Merchants', National, and Western are on Cortlaudt St., in the 
lower part of the city, and are patronized by business men. The*Astor House 
(on Broadway, opposite the Post Office) is kept on the Euroj>ean plan, as are also 
tbe Brandreth (corner of Broadway and Canal St.), the Westminster (corner 
Irving Place and Kith St.), the Belvidere (Irving Place and 15th St.), tlie Irving 
(Broadway and 12tli St.), the Brevoort (5th Ave. and 8th St.), the Al'oemarle, &c. 
French's, Leggett's, Sweeny's, and the Cosmopolitan are near the City Hall Park, 
Rooms may be obtained at the European plan hotels for from §1 to §3 a day, 
with meals a la carte within the house or elsewhere. For a tourist who is to 
make but a short visit to New York these houses will be found more commodious 
and less exi)ensiye then those on the American pLm. There are about 140 other 
hotels in the city, several of which are first-class. Tlie Stevens House is on Broad- 
way near the Battery; and tlie Grand Union, opposite the Grand Central deuot 
(42d St.) is conveniently situated for passengers arriving by late trains from New 
England or the North. 

Kestauraiitis;. — * Delmonico's, corner 5th Ave. and 14th St., the best In 
America (with branch establishments down town, near the corner of Broadway 
and Cedar St., and on Broad St. near AVall) ; Parker's, on Broadway near 34th St., 
is frequented by ladies; also Bigot's, on 11th St., near Broadway; Geyer's, 734 
and 736 Broadway, is a large and favorite restaurant ; Solari, corner of University 
Place and 11th St., prepares elaborate late dinners. lauch (864 Broadway) and 
Bergman (1,121 Broadway) keep ladies' restaurants, which are much freijuented ; 
Arnaud (815 Broadway) is famous for fine French candies ; and Purssell's (010 
Broadway) is a favorite lunch-saloon for the up-town ladies. At 3!) Park Row, 
and at Leggett's Hotel are large eating-houses for down-town merchants. 

Tlie cafes and restaurant ; attached to the large hotels on the Euroi)ean plan are 
generally well kept, and are much visited by ladies. The Astor House has one 
of the best of these. Oysters may be found in every variety in the small saloons 
in Fulton Market. Mafllard's (621 Broadway) is famous for fine confectionery 
and chocolate. New England dishes are served at Payson's on Cortlandt near 
Greenwich St. 

Consuls. — English, 17 Broadway ; German, 117 Broadway ; French, 4 Bowling 
Green ; Italian, 7 Broadway ; Austrian, 33 Broadway ; Russian, 52 Exchange 

Place ; Swedish, IS Exchange Place ; Spanish, 29 Broadway. , 

Heading Ilooms. — In all the chief hotels(for guests) ; Y. M. C. Association, 
corner 23d St. and 4th Ave., also at 285 Hudson St., 473 Grand St., and 285 



326 RovieSl. NEW YORK CITY. 

Bleecker St. Astor Library, Lafayette Place, open OJ - 5 ; City Library, City 
Hall, ojien free to all, 10-4 ; * Cooper Union, corner 7tli St. and 4th Ave., ojieii 
from 8 A. M. to 10 p. m. ; Woman's Library, open 9-4 (-^^l.SO a year) ; N. Y. ilis- 
torical Society, corner 11th St. and 2d. Ave. 

Post-Office, at the foot of City-Hall Park, open continnonsly except Sun- 
day.s, wiien it is only ojien between 9 and 11 a. m. ; eiglit deliveries of letters 
daily ; tlie Eastern mails close at 5 a. m., 1..30 p. m., and G p. m. There are 20 
sub post-offices (Stations), whicli are alphabetically designated. 

Carriages. — Frequent clianges are made in the legal rates, which, however, 
are but lightly binding on the drivers. Attempts are being made to introduce 
a modification of tiie London cab-system into New York, with comparatively 
low fares and courteous drivers. A tariff of fares is (or should be) hung in 
each carriage, but the drivers frequently attempt to extort undue sums from their 
passengers. In such cases, since the hackmen of New York are the most ruf- 
fianly of their class in the world, an instant appeal should be made to tlie first 
policeman who may be seen. 

Omnibuse.s (called " stages ") run (1) from Fulton Ferry, by Broadway, 
University Place, 14th, and 5th Ave , to 47th St., returning over the same route; 
(2) from South Ferry, by Broadway, 23d, and 9th Ave , to 30th St., returning the 
same way ; (3) from \Vall-St. Ferry, by Wall, Broadway, 23d, and Madison Ave., to 
40th St. The fare on these lines is 5 c. 

Horse-Cars. — The fare on most of the lines is 5 c. (1) Park Place to 
Central Park, by Church and Greene Sts. and 7th Ave. ; (2) Astor House (Vesey 
St.) to Central Park, by West Broadway, Varick St., and 6th Ave. ; (3) Astor 
House to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and Sth Ave. ; (4) Astor House to 
Grand Central Depot and Harlem, by Park Row, Chatham St., Bowery, and 3d 
Ave. ; (5) Astor House to Hunter's Point Ferry, by Park Row, Centre, Grand, 
Bowery, 4th Ave., 32d and 34th Sts. ; (G) Astor House to 34th St. Ferry, by 
Chatham St., East Broadway, Avenues B. and A., and 1st. Ave. ; (7) Astor 
House to 86th St., by Centre, Bowery, 4th and Madison Aves. ; (S) corner 
Broadway and Canal St. to 43d St., by Varick St. and 6th Ave. ; ('.•) corner 
Broadway and Canal St. to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave. ; (10) 
corner Broadway and Ann St. through Chatham, East Broadway, Avenues B. 
and A. ; (11) corner Broadway and Broome to Central Park, l)y 7th Ave. ; (12) 
corner Broad wav and Fulton to 54th St., by Greenwich St. and 9th Ave. ; (13) 
Peck Slip to Harlem (128th St.), by Oliver St., Bowery, and 2d Ave. ; (14) South 
Ferry to Central Pai-k, by West St. and 10th Ave. ; (15) South Ferry to Central 
Park, by the East River Ferries, 1st Ave., and 59th St. ; (16) Fulton Ferry 
through Centre and Bleecker Sts. to 10th Ave. ; (17) Grand St. Ferry to Des- 
brosses St. Ferry, by Grand and Vestry Sts. ; (18) Grand. St. Ferry to Cortlandt 
St. Ferry ; (19) Grand St. Ferrv to 42d St. (Weehawken) Ferry ; (20) corner 
Chambers and West Sts. to 42d St. Depot. 

Klevatc<l Railways (10 c.) run from the Battery to the Harlem Ftiver, by 4 
routes: (1) by 6th Ave'; (2) by Bowery and 3d Ave.; (3) by 2d Ave.; (4) by 9th 
Ave. Stations at about every half-mile. Trains every few minutes. 

Ferries. —To Astoria, from 92d St., and from Peck Sli]) ; to Blackwcir.s 
Island, from 26th St. ; to Brooklyn, from Whitehall, Wall, Fulton, Roosevelt, 
Catharine, Grand, Jackson, Houston, and James Sts. ; to Governor's and Bedloe's 
Islands, from Pier 43, N, R. ; to Greenpoint, fnim lOtli and from 23d Sis. ; to 
Hunter's Point, from James Slip and from 26th St. ; to Randall's Island, from 20th 
and from 122d Sts. ; to Wards Island, ft-om 110th St. , to Jersey City, from 
Cortlandt, Desbrosses, Chambers, and 23d Sts. ; to Hoboken, from Barclay and 
Christopher Sts. ; to Weehawken, from 42d St. ; to Staten Island, from White- 
hall St., and fr.nn Pi.-r 19, N. R. 

Theatres.,— The Academy of Music (2 Irving Place) and the Metropolitan Opera 
House (Broadway and 7tli Ave.) are magnificent temples of the music-drama, the 
homes of grand opera. The Grand Opera House (Sth Ave. and 23d St ), is a large mar- 
ble building, chiefly used for dramatic representations. The Madison Square (4 ^^^ 
24th St.) is a theatre of world-wide fame. The Ca,«ino (Broadway and 3!tth St. ) gives 
comedies and light operas, and lias a cafe and summer-garden. It is a hand.'^onie 
building, in Moorish arcliitecture. Nib'lo's Theatre (Broadway, near Prince St.) 
accommodates 2,000 persons ; Wallack's (Broadway, corner of 13th St.) is a favorite 
report for lovers of IcgHimnte comedy ; the Fifth Avenue (2Sth St., near Brcidwiu) 
and the Union Square (4th Ave and 14th St.) are small but elegant and fashioiiabie 




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NEW YORK CITY. Route 51. 327 

theatres; Bijou Opera House (Broadway and 31st St.), light musical plays ; Daly's 
Theatre (Broadway aud 30th St.), standard comedy and good music ; Ilaverly's 
Theatre (14th St. and 6th Ave.), a rich interior; Star Theatre (Broadway and IStli 
St.). The Thalia Theatre (46 Bowery) is devoted to German plays and operas; 
and Tony Pastor's gives popular varieties and spectacles. Sau Francisco Min- 
strels (Broadway, near 20th St.) give negro melodies, dances, etc. There are 
numerous well-arranged German beer-gardens in the city, where music and 
dancing are given. The Casino affords the best of orchestral music, and is a 
favorite summer-evening resort of the up-town families. The Atlantic Garden 
(next to the Thalia Theatre) has fine music, and is chiefly visited by Germans. 
The collar concert-saloons on Broadway and elsewhere should be avoided, for they 
are (for the most i>art) both disreputable and dangerous. Lectures and conceil.s 
are frequently given in Association, Cooper Institute, Apollo, and Irving Halls. 
Classic music, oratorios, and concerts are generally given iu Steinway Hall (14th 
yt., near Broadway) and in Chickeriug HalT(.'3tli Ave., corner of ISth St.). 

Kailroads. — Across Staten Island to Tottenville, Pier 1, E. R. ; to Pliila- 
de]i)]iia, by Trenton (90 M.) from foot of Cortlandt St. ; by S. Amboy (92 M.) ; to 
Ea.ston, Pa., from foot of Liberty St. ; to Greenport, Long Island (foot of James 
St.); to Flushing; to liackettstown ; to Long Branch ; to Albany (144 M.) sta- 
tion corner of 42d St. and 4th Ave. ; to Albany (by tlie Harlem R. R. ), from the 
42d St. station ; to New Haven and Boston, from the corner of 4th Ave. and 42d 
St. The Eric Railway (ferry) stations are at the foot of Chambers and of 23d St. 

Steamers. — Transatlantic lines — for Liverpool, the White Star and Cunard 
Lines, Piers at Jersey City ; Inmau Line, Pier 45, N. R. ; U. S. Mail Line, Pier 
4(j ; National Line, Piers 44 and 47, N. R. ; for Liverpool and Glasgow, Anchor 
Line, Pier 20, N. R. ; for London, Piers 44 and 47, and 3, N. R. ; for Havre, Pier 
50, N. R. ; for Hamburg and Bremen, Piers at Hoboken ; for Antwerp ; for the 
Mediterranean ports. West Indian lines — for Havana, Atlantic Mail Line, Pier 
4, N. R. ; for Havana and Vera Cruz, Pier 17, E. R. ; for Hayti, Nassau, and the 
Bermudas. For St. Thomas and Brazil (monthly). Pier 43, N. R. ; for St. Domin- 
go and Samana Bay. For Panama and San Fiuneisco (semi-monthly). Pier 42, N. 
R. The American coast — for Key West and Galveston (tri-monthly). Pier 20, E. 
R. ; for New Orleans (3 weekly steamers), Piers 9 and 12, N. R., and 20, E. R. ; 
for Fernandina, Pier 29, N. R. ; for Savannah (two weekly steamers), Piers 13 and 
36, N. R. ; for Charleston (thrice weekly), Piers 5 and 8, N. R. ; for Newbern (tri- 
monthly). Pier 16, E. R. ; for Norfolk and Richmond (tri-weekly). Pier 37, N. R. ; 
for W^ashington and Ale.xandria (semi- weekly), Pier 29, E. R. ; for Philadelphia, 
the piers from which the steamboats leave are sometimes changed. See the daily 
papers. 

Coastwise and river lines — to Yonkers, Tarrytown, West Point, Newburg, 
Poughkeepsie, Hudson, Albany, and Troy, from Pier 39, N. R. (morning boat), 
and from Pier 41, N. R. (evening boat) ; otlier river-steamers are at Piers 49, 35, 
34, 51, and 43 ; to Elizabethport and Kill Von Knll, from Pier 14, N. R. (thrieo 

daily) ; to Staten Island (North Shore) hourly, from Pier 19, N. R. (South 

Shore), from Whitehall ; to Elizabethi>ort and Perth Amboy, from Pier 2(5 ; to 
Long Branch, from Pier 35 ; to Sandy Hook, from Pier 28 ; to Newark, from Pier 
26 ; to S. Amboy, from Pier 1, N. R. ; to Astoria and Harlem, 12 times daily, from 
Pier 24, E. R. (Pe(;k Slip) ; to Bay Ridge, from Pier 15. E. R., 6 times daily ; to 
Great Neck, Glen Cove, Rosljni, and Whitestone, from Pier 24, E. R. ; to College 
Point and Flushing, from Pier 22, E. R. ; to Huntington and Oyster Bay, from 
Pier 37, E. R. ; toGreenport and Orient, from Pier 4,"N. R. ; to High Bridge and 
Kingsbridge, from Harlem Bridge ; to Morrisania, from Pier 22, E. R. ; to Sag 
Harbor, froni Pier 4, N. R. Steamers leave for Greenwich and Stamford from 
Pier 37, E. R. ; for Norwalk, from Pier 37, E. R. ; for Bridgeport, from Pier 35, 
E. R. : for Stratford and IVIilford, from Pier 37, E. R. ; for New Haven, from Pier 
25, E. R. (afternoon and evening); for Hartford and the Conn. River ports, from 
I'ier 24, E. R. ; fin- New London (and Boston), from Pier 40, N. R. ; tor Stonhig- 
ton (and Boston), from Pier 33, N. R. ; for New]K)rt, Fall River (and Boston), 
from Pier 28, N. R. ; for Providence, from Pier 27, N. R. ' 



328 Route 51. NEW YORK CITY. 

New York City, the commercial metropolis of tlie United States and 
the chief city of the Western Hemisphere, is situated on Manhattan 
Island, at tlie moutli of the Hudson River, in latitude 40" 42' 43" N., 
and longitude 3'" 1' 13' E. from Washington. The population of the city 
in 1880 was 1,200,299. The island is 131 m. long, and 1 - 2 M. wide (con- 
taining 22 square M.), and is bounded on the W. by the Hudson River, 
on the E. by the East River, on the N. by Harlem River and Spuyten 
Buyvil Creek, while its S. end looks out on the Bay of New York. The 
lower part of the island consists of alluvial deposits, but low, rocky ridges 
are found in the central part, which ascend to the cliffs of Washington 
Heights on the N. The city extends for 5 - 6 M. N. from the Battery, 
and the district above the densely settled streets is studded with villas, 
public and charitable buildings, and market-gardens. The grand avenue 
called Broadway runs from the lower end of the island to the Central 
Park, beyond which the broad and costly Boulevard conducts to the N. 
end. The city is laid out somewhat irregularly from the Battery to 14th 
St. (2^ M.), but beyond that line a succession of straight, jiarallel streets 
extend from river to river, and are crossed at right angles by broad ave- 
nues. running lengtlnvise of the island. The Bay of New York is one of 
the most picturesque in the world, and affords a safe anchorage for tlie 
largest commercial fleets and the great vessels of the European steamship- 
lines. The inner harbor is entered through a deep strait called the Nar- 
rows, which is defended by the most powerful and imposing fortifications 
and armaments in the Western world. 

The site of New York was discovered by the Florentine mariner, Verrazzani, in 
the year 15'.i4. The harbor was again visited by Hf udric.k Hudson, commanding 
a vessel of the Dutch East India Company (Sept. 3, l(iO'.)), and from the scene of 
wassail and merriment whicli followed the meeting of the saitors and the natives, 
the Ii]di;ins named the island Manhattan (" the place where they all got drunk "). 
Hudson Ihen ascended the river since named in his honor to the site of Albany, 
and claimed the land, by right of discc^very, as an apjianage of Holland, under 
the name of tlie New Netherlands. In 1614 a Dutch colony came over, and built 
4 houses aud a fort (near the i)resent Bowling Green), naming the place New Am- 
sterdam, in honor of that city which had taken the foremost ]iart in the enter- 
jirise. In 1G64, Peter Stuyvesant being Ca])tain-General and the ]dacc having 
about 1,S00 inhabitants. King Charles II. of England granted all the land fivm the 
Connecticut to the Delaware River to his brother, the Duke of Yorlc, and an 
Eimli.sh fleet under Capt. Nichols captured New Amsterdam ajid named it New 
Yoi-k. A Dr.'eli fleet retook the place in IfiTH (the population being about 2,50(t), 
but it was soon restored to England by treaty. Gov. Sir Edmund Andros was 
ousted liy the people (a few vears later"), and Jacob Leisler took liis place, and 
ruled nniid the trials and terrors of bitter political straggles and sanguinary in- 
vasions from Canada. In 1700 the city had about 0,000 inhabitants ; in 1702 the 
first free grannnar school was opened ; in 1711 a slave-market was opened in Wall 
St. ; in 172.J the New York rjose We was established ; and in 17.']2 a classical academy 
was found(>d. Tlie connnerce of the city increased rapidly, aud its merchants 
took a bold and decided stand against tl)e unjust aggressions of Parliament. The 
American army under Washingt<m occui)ied the city in 177(5, but the British troops 
who had abandoned Boston landed on Long Island, and after a severe battle near 
Brooklyn, Washington was forced to retreat. Other actions at White Plains aud 
Kind's Bridge resulted in gi'eat damage to the Americans, and New York was left 
in the liands of the British, who occupied it for seven years. Part of the city was 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 51. 329 

■bxinit, part of it wns turned into barracks, hospitals, and prisons, and thousands 
of Americans were coiilined on floating hulks in the Bast River. Nov. 25, 1783, 
the British left, and Washington and theGovernor of tlie 8tatc entered in triumph. 
The first Federal Congress met here, and here, in 17S9, Washington was inaugu- 
rated President (the city then having 3.S,000 inhabitants ; in ISOO it had (50,489). 
The lirst steamer was put on the Hudson in 1807, and the Erie Canal was com- 
pleted in 182"), amid si'ilendid celebi'ations in the citj^ and 8tate. Gas was intro- 
duced in 1825 ; in 18;{2 the Asiatic cholera carried off 4,350 persons ; in 1835 a 
great tire destroyed 4 20,000,000 worth of property ; and in 1837 the great hnancial 
crisis ruined thousands. The Croton Aqueduct was completed in 1S42, and a 
lire in 1845 caused a loss of S 7,000,00 ). The city has grown rapidly since the in- 
trodncti<m of the railway system, and the most remote parts of the states are 
reached by its immense lines of track. Scores of ocean-steamers and fleets of 
packet-ships bring in tlie products of all other continents, and bear away full 
cargoes of Western grain, or the maiuifactures of the Middle and liastern States. 
In 1820 New York had 123,706 inhabitants ; in 1840, 312,710 ; in 1800, 813.669 ; 
and in 1870, 92(5,341. There are but two larger cities (London and Paris) in Chris- 
tendom, au<l if the ]>opulation of the close-lying suburbs of iJrooklyn, Williams- 
burg, and Jersey City were added to that of New York, it would be tlie sixth city 
in the world. 

The Battery is a park at the S. end of Manhattan I.shmd, containing 
10.\ acres, and adorned with large trees and verdant hxwns. The water- 
front is secured by a sea-wall of massive masonry, above which is a broad 
jironienade which affords admirable *'\dews of the Bay. The x>opnlous 
heights of Brooklyn are in the E., with Governor's Island nearer at hand, 
on which the high walls of Castle William are seen, with the embank- 
ments of the less im^iosing but more powerful Fort Columbus, a star- fort 
monnting 120 heavy cannon. Ellis and Bedloe's Islands are seen farther 
down the harbor, with the long hill-ranges of Staten Island beyond, and 
Jersey City on the W. The curious round structure on the Battery was 
built for a fort {" Castle Clinton ") in 1807, was ceded to the city in 1823, 
and was the scene of the civic receptions of the Mai'quis Lafayette, Gen. 
Jackson, President Tyler, and others. It then became an opera-house, 
where Jenny Lind, Sontag, Parodi, Jullien, Mario, &c., made their appear- 
ance. Tlie building is now used as a depot fur imnugrants, who are hei'e 
received from their ships, and from which they are sent to their desti- 
nations. From Whitehall, on the E. of the Battery, the Staten-Island, 
South, and Hamilton (Brooklyn) ferry-boats start, besides several horse- 
car and stage lines. Boatmen may be engaged here for trips in the harbor. 
From this point South St. follows the East Kiver shore for over 2 M., 
passing the ferries to the Long Island cities, and the piers at which lie 
hundreds of stately packet and clipper shij^s, and humbler coasting-craft. 
Bowling Green, the cradle of New York, is just N. of the Battery. Near 
by, Fort Amsterdam was built in 1635, and in 1770 an equestrian statiie 
of King George III. (of gilded lead) was set iip on the Green. In 1776 the 
statue was overthro^vn by the people, and taken to Litchfield, Conn., 
wliere it was melted into (42,000) bullets. West St. runs N. along the 
Hudson River shore for over 2 M. from the Battery, passing the piers of 
hundreds of steamcis and the ferries to the New Jersey .shore. 



330 Route 51. NEW YORK CITY. 

No. 1 Broadway was built in 17G0, and served as the headquarters of 
Lord Howe, Gen. Clinton, Lord Cornwallis, and Gen. Wasliinijton. On 
its site Cyrus W. Field has erected a vast commercial building. Benedict 
Arnold lived at No. 5 Broadway, and Gen. Gage had his head quarters at 
No. 11. A short distance above the Green is * Trinity Church, a noble 
Gothic building of brown-stone, with a spire 284 ft. high. Tlie interior is 
192 ft. long and 60 ft. high, with a deep chancel lighted by a superb 
window, and with massive colunms separating the nave from the aisles. 
The clnxrch is open all the week, and the ascent of the spire (308 steps ; 
small fee to the sexton) should be made for the sake of the * view from 
the top. To the S. is the noble harbor with its fleets and fortified islands 
and the fair villages of Staten Island in the distance; to the W., across the 
Hudson, are Jersey City, Newark, Bergen, and Elizabeth ; and up-river 
from Jersey City are Hoboken and Weehawken, with the Palisades and 
the distant blue Highlands in the N. The thronged and brilliant Broad- 
way runs N. E. for 2 M. to Grace Church, and the great mass of the city 
is seen on either hand ; while the course of East River may be followed 
from above BlackAvell's Island by Flusliing, Astoria, and Greenpoint, to 
Brooklyn and Greenwood. Directly below is the crowded Wall St., along 
Avhose line ran the walls of New Amsterdam. There is a large and ven- 
erable graveyard about the church, in which are buried Alexander 
Hamilton, Capt. Lawrence (of the Chesapeake), and other noted men, 
while in one corner is a stately Gothic monimient to the patriots who died 
in the British prison-ships. Trinity Society is the oldest in New York, 
and the first edifice on the present site was built in 1696. In 1705 Queen 
Anne gave it a fine communion service (still preserved), and also a large 
tract of land on Manhattan Island, wliich has since so increased in value 
that this church is the richest in America (said to be Avorth over $10,000, 
000), and spends immense sums annually in benefactions among the poor 
of New York, besides supporting a considerable body of clergy and a clioir 
which is unsurpassed in the country. There are morning and evening 
prayers daily in the church (9 A. M. and 3 P. M.), with imposing choral 
services on Sunday. The chime of bells in the steeple is the finest in 
America. 

Wall St. runs E. from Trinity Church, and is the resort of bankers and 
brokers, and the financial centre of the republic. At No. 13 the visitors 
gallery of the Stock Exchdngc may T)e entered, and at about noon affords 
an exciting view of the busy whirl below. The stately U. S. Sub- 
Treasury is on the corner of Wall and Nassau, on the site of the hall in 
which Washington was inaugurated first President of the U. S. (1789). It 
is built in partial imitation of the Parthenon at Athens, with Doric colon- 
nades and classic pediment, and a lofty interior rotunda, supported by 
16 elegant Corinthian colunms. It is of Massachusi^tts marble (v.dth 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 51. 331 

f^raiiito roof), and took 8 years in huilding, costing ^ 2,000,000. (Visitors 
adniiLtcd, 10-3 o'clock. ) Broad St., tlic home of speculators and brokers, 
leads olF to the S. from the Treasury, while running N. is the busy Nassau 
St., also Uned with bankers' offices, and leading to the City-Hall i'ark — 
crossing /o/m ^(!., on which is the oldest Methodist church in America 
(built in 17G8), and near Avhich, on William St., Washuigton Irving was 
born. The venerable Middle and North Dutch Churclies (on Nassau 
and Fulton Sts. ) have been secularized and demolished. The former 
was useil for the U. S. Post-0 Ilice from 1361 to 1875. Opposite 
the U. S. Sub-Treasury are several eminent banking-houses, and the 
superb Drexel building (built in the Renaissance style at a cost of 
% 700,000). Still farther down Wall St. is the TJ. S. Custom House, a 
massive building of granite, marble, and iron, originally built for a 
Merchants' Exchange, at a cost of .$ 1,800,000. It is 200 ft. long, and has 
a portico of 13 Ionic columns, while a dome 124 ft. high overarches a 
rotunda surrounded by 8 rich Corinthian columns of Italian nuirl)le, aiid 
capable of containing 3,000 persons. The elegant Bank of New York is 
op}iosite the Custom House, and just below is Pearl St., the scene of a 
heavy wholesale trade in cotton and other staples. A ferry runs from the 
foot of Wall St. to Montague St., Brooklyn. Returning to Broadway, the 
immense buildings of the Bank of the Republic, the Metropolitan Bank, 
the E(piital»le Life Ins. Co. (137 ft. high), and others are passed. Fulton 
St. turns off to the r. at the busiest part of Broadway, and leads to Fulton 
Ferry, passing the Evening-Post building and tlie Fulton Market. 
St. PauVs Church (Epis.), on the 1. of Broadway, was built in 1766, and 
has a statue of St. Paul on its pediment, with a mural tablet in the front 
wall over the remains of Gen. Montgomery. Opposite the church are the 
floridly ornamented Park Bank and the extensive and elegant Herald 
Building, standing on the site of Barnum's Museiim (which was burnt in 
1865). Tlie long and simple granite front of the Astnr House comes next, 
on Broadway (on the 1.), with Vesey St. diverging to the 1. and leading to 
the great Washin'jton Market, with its rude and unsightly sheds tilled 
with a rare display of the fruits and vegetables, meats and fish, of the 
adjacent districts. Park Row stretches off obliquely to the r. from the 
Astor House to Printing House Square, with its bronze statue of Franklin. 
This vicinity is one of the great intellectual centres of America, and here 
are seen the offices of the Herald, Times, Tribune, World, Sun, Telegram, 
Neirs, Mail ami Express, Truth, Journal, Stoats Zeitung (all daily 
papers, besides a shoal of weeklies). The Christian Union, Indepen- 
dent, Graphic, and other able papers, are published in Park Place. By 
turning from Printing-House Square down Frankfort St., Franklin Square 
is reached, with the vast and imposing publishing-house of the Harpers. 
Chatham St., the prolongation of Park Row, is the home of Jew trades- 



332 Route 51. NEW YORK CITY. 

men, mock auctions, and old-clotlies shops. At the S. end of the City 
Hall Park, and opi)Osite the Astor Ilonse, is the new * U. S. Post-Office, 
a stately and immense granite building, with lofty Louvre domes and a 
frontage (on Broadway) of 340 ft. The architecture is Doric and Renais- 
sance, the granite columns and hlocks being cut and carved ready for their 
places (by 600 men) at Dix Island, on the coast of Maine, and the building 
is absolutely incombustible. The basement and first floor are reserved 
for the Post-Ofiice, the second and third floors for the U. S. Courts, and 12 
elevators keep up commmiications. The City Hall is N. of the Post- 
Office, and is a fine building of Massachusetts marble, 216 ft. long and 
105 ft. broad, with Ionic, Corinthian, and composite pilasters lining its 
front. It is surmounted by a fine clock-tower, whicli is illuminated at 
night. The City Hall was nine years in building, and cost $ 700,000. N. 
of this edifice is the new Court House, a massive and magnificent marble 
building, in Corinthian architecture, 250 ft. long, and completely fire- 
proof. It was commenced in 1861, the expense being estimated at 
$ 800,000, but the infamous Tammany Ring having gained control in the 
city, $5-6,000,000 was (nominally) spent on the Court House. The 
elegant Corinthian portico on Chambers St., the lofty and graceful dome, 
and other details of the plan, have not yet been completed. Opjtosite the 
Court House is the liuilding formerly devoted to A. T. Stewart's 
wholesale trade (shawls, silks, and dry goods), standing on the site of a 
British fort of 1776-83. Passing up Broadway, with immense and costly 
buildings on either side, and similarly lined streets running off to r. and 1., 
the brilliant windows, the throngs on the sidewalks, and tlie roar of the 
street cause constant surprise. On the r. is the " Bloody Sixth " Ward 
(boimded by Broadway, Canal, Bowery, and Chatham Sts.), with its dense 
and dangerous population, its filth, poverty, and crime. By turning 
down Leonard St. (to the r. ) the city prison, called the Tombs, is reached. 
It is built massively in the gloomiest and heaviest form of Egyptian 
architecture, and is usually well filled, while in the interior of the quad- 
rangle is the place of executions. A short distance beyond, at the inter- 
section of Baxter, Park, and Worth Sts., is the Five Points, formerly the 
most terrible locality in the city and republic, but now somewhat im- 
proved by the aggressions of religious missions. In this vicinitj'' are the 
crowded and reeking tenements, the narrow and filthy alleys, the unspeak- 
able corruption and utter depravity of the slums of the Empire City. It 
is well to be accompanied by a policeman during a visit to this district, 
both to insure personal safety and to learn nanute details. 

Advancing up Broadway, Walker St. is seen on the 1., leading to tho 
Hudson River R. R. Depot, whose Hudson St. front is surmoimted by 
the largest bronze groujis in the world (emblematic of Vanderbilt'scareerV 
The ancient Chapel of St. John fronts tlie (h'pot, which was built on Si. 



NEW YOKE CITY. RoiiU 51. 333 

John's Park. Passing now tlie snperh white niarl)le N. Y". Life Ins. 
Building (Ionic architecture) and the Brandreth House, the wide Canal 
St. is crossed. Prince St. leads off to the old Cathedral of St. Patrick, 
and then comes Bleecker St., the Latin Quarter of New York, and 
the headquarters of Bohemianisin. A little way beyond the Grand- 
Central Hotel (on the 1.), a side street leads W. to Washington Square, 
laid out on the old Potter's Field, where over 100,000 bodies are buried 
in trenches. On one side of the Square is the New- York University 
(founded in 1831), a fine marble building 200 ft. long, in English 
collegiate architecture, with a large Gothic window lighting the chapel. 
Above the Grand-Central Hotel, Astor Place leads off obliquely to 
the r. to the Mtrcantile Library (with 200,000 volumes) in the 
old Astor -Place Ojiera House. Close by, on the S., in Lafayette 
Place, i.s the Astor Library (open 9-5 daily), in two lofty halls hi a 
large Romanesque bnilding. The library was endowed with $400,000 by 
John Jacol) Astor, and has about 150,000 volumes, besides rare old books 
and considerable departments in the European languages. Tiie Bible 
House (at the end of Astor Place) is an immense structure, six stoiies 
high, covering | of an acre, with 700 ft. frontage, and containing 600 oper- 
atives. It cost $300,000, and is the property of the American Bible So- 
ciety, and besides the vast numbers of Bibles issued from its presses, tliere 
are 13 religious and philanthropic papers published in the building. Since 
1817 this society has put in circulation 9,000,000 Bibles and Testaments, 
in 24 languages. Opposite the Bible House is the Cooper Institute, a 
brown-stone building occupying an entire square, wliich was founded and 
endowed by Peter Cooper, of New York. It has a great library and read- 
ing-room, Avith courses of lectures and special studies, nearly all of which 
are free to the people. Stuyvesant Place leads N. E. from the Institute, 
passing St. Mark's Church (Epis.), whichhas the tombs of the Dutch Cai)- 
taiu-General Stuyvesant (died 1682), the British Governor Slonghter, and 
the American Governor Tompkins. At the end of the Place is the ele- 
gant yellow sandstone building of the N. Y. Historical Society, with a 
rich historical library of 60,000 volumes, collections of antiquities, a pic- 
ture gallery, and museitms of Nineveh marbles and Egyptian curiosities. 
Cole's "Course of Empire " paintings are in this art gallery. 

On Broadway, corner of 10th St., is Stewart's vast dry-goods store, 
witli 15 acres of flooring, said to be the largest store in the world. Grace 
Church, and Rectory are now seen on the r., costly and elegant l)uildings 
of marble, in the most florid Gothic architecture. The lofty and graceful 
spire is much admired, and the interior of the church, with 40 stained 
windows, light columns and arches and carvings, has a theatrical splendor. 
At this point Broadway bends to the 1., and soon reaches Union Square, 
a pleasant oval purk, with green lawns and shrubbery, and a large popu- 



334 Route 51. NEW YORK CITY. 

lation of Englisli sparrows. On the E. is a colossal equestrian statue of 
Washington, wliicli is much admired, and on the W. is a bronze statue of 
Lincoln. The Square is lined with fine hotels and stores, although it was 
formerly the most aristocratic part of the city. University Place runs S. 
from Union Square, passing the N. Y. Society Library (near 12th St. ; 
founded 1700 ; 01,000 volumes) and the Union Theological Seminary (near 
8th St. ; witli 6 professors and 73 students), to the N. Y. University. 
14th St. runs E. by the elegant Steinway Hall, the Academy of Music, 
Grace Church Chapel, and Tammany Hall. 

4th Avenue runs N. from Union S(iuare. To the r., down 16th St., ar^ 
Stuyvesant Square and St. George's Church (Epis.), a large and elegant 
editice of brown-stone, in Romanesque arcliitecture, with a richly frescoed 
ceiling 100 ft. above the tioor, a spacious chancel, twin spires (245 ft. 
high), and a fine rectory (the home of S. H. Tyng, D. D.). Farther up 
4th Ave. (corner of 20th St.) is the Church of All Souls 
(Unitarian), a curious structure in Italian architecture, with alternate 
courses of brick and light-colored stone. On the next corner is the Cal- 
vary Church (Epis.), a Gothic building of brown-stone, and near by is St. 
Paul's Church (Meth.), of white marble, in Romauestpie architecture. 
On the corner of 4th Ave. and 23d St. is the Young Men's Christian Asso- 
ciation building, a large and costly structure of brown and Ohio stone, in 
the Renaissance architecture, and includuig a fine library, reading-rooms, 
parlors, a gymnasium, and a public hall. Strangers will meet a kindly 
welcome liere. Opposite the Y. M. C. A. is the elegant * National 
Academy of Design, built of gray and white marbles and blue-stone, in 
the purer Gothic forms of the 12th century, with certain features copied 
from the best Venetian architecture. It has an imposing entrance and 
stairway, with extensive galleries, in which every spring and summer are 
held exhibitions of hundreds of the recent works of the best of living 
American artists (admission 25c. ). On the lower floor is the Suydam col- 
lection (on permanent deposit), which includes 92 pictures by eminent 
French and American artists, with a few works of the old Italian masters. 
E. of the Academy (on 23d St.) are the N. Y. College of Physicians and 
Surgeons, the Demilt Dispensary, the Ophthalmic Hospital, and the Col- 
lege of the City of New York (corner of Lexington Ave.). Passing W. 
along 23d St., Madison Square is soon reached (3 M. from the Battery), 
a bright and fashion-favored park of six acres, surrounded by palatial 
hotels (5th Ave., Ilofi"man, St. James, &c.), and adonied by a monument 
to Gen, Worth. 23d St. runs tlience W. to the Hudson River, passing 
the imposing Masonic Hall, and the great marble Opera House on the 
corner of 8th Ave. Turning to the 1. from 23d St. down 9th Ave. to 20th 
St., the stoue buildings of tiie richly endowed and flourishing Gtntral 



NEW YORK CITY. Route 51. 335 

Theological Seminary (Epis.) maj' be seen. Broadway runs N. from 
Madison Square for nearly 2 M. to the Central Park, crossing the num- 
bered streets obliquely, and passing the sumptuous Hotel Victoria, on the 
comer of 27th St., several famous theatres, the Congregational Taber- 
nacle (corner of 34th St.), the Armory of the 37th Regiment (cor- 
ner of 6th Ave-X and long lines of fine buildings and stores. Fifth 
Avenue begins on the S. at Washington Square, and passes the Col- 
lege of St. Francis Xavier (Jesuit ; corner of 15th St. and opposite the 
Manhattan and the New York Club Houses), Chickering Hall (comer of 
18th St.), the S. Reformed Church (corner of 21st St.), the Church of 
the Holy Communion (Epis. ; ci'uciform Gothic, of brown-stone, with 
free seats ; corner of 20th St. and 6th Ave. ), and the Union Club House 
(built of brown-stone at a cost of $300,000 ; corner of 22d St.). The 
avenue now passes the line of superb hotels on tlie W. side of Madison 
Square, and crosses Broadway diagonally. The route from Madison 
Sqnare to the Central Park by this avenue leads through the most aristo- 
cratic and splendid street in America, — forming a scene of unexampled 
brilliancy and beauty, especially on pleasant Sundays after morning ser- 
vice and late in the afternoon. Just off the avenue on 25th St. is Trinity 
CImpel, an elegant edifice lined with Caen stone, frescoed, with richly 
stained windows, and famous for its choral services. St. Stejihen's Church 
(Cath. ), which has the most elegant altar in America, may be seen down 
23th St., which leads off to the E. to Bellevue Hospital and the Morgue. 
On 29tli St., near the avenue, is the quaint and irregular Church of the 
Transfiguration, much affected for fashionable weddings and familiarly 
known as "the little ehurcli around the corner." At tlie corner of 3-ith 
St. (which diverges on tlie 1. to the great Manhattan Market) is the 
superb marble palace of the late A. T. Stewart, which cost $2,000,000, 
and has a famous picture-gallery. 

34th St. leads W. to the Hudson, passing the turreted and embattled 
builduigs of the N. Y. Institution for the Blind. On the E. it conducts 
to Park Ave., on high ground, which is underlaid by the 4th Ave. R. 
R. passing through a tunnel over whiclx are well-arranged parks. The 
Unitarian Church of the Messiah fronts on Park Avenue, and is adjoined 
by the spacious Church of the Covenant (Pres.), built of gray-stone in 
Lombardo-Gothic arcitecture. In this vicinity (corner of 4th Ave. and 
32d St.) is a vast and elegant iron building, erected by A. T. Stewart for 
a home for working- women. 

On tlie corner of 5th Ave. and 35th St. is the costly and nltra-ritualistic 
Christ Church (Epis.), with its renowned artistic music and its elaborate 
frescoes, while the plainer Brick Church (Pres. ) is on the 37th St. comer. 
On 5th Ave., from 40th to 42d Sts., is the Distributing Reservoir of the 
Croton Aqueduct, massively built of granite in Egyptian architecture, 44 



33G Ruide51. NEW YORK CITY. 

ft, liitrli, 420 ft. Fqiiave, -with an area of 4 acres and a capacify of 
23,000,000 gallons. The broad promenade ou top is open to the public, 
and commands extensive and pleasing views. Reservoir Square is a 
pretty park on the W., while the (French Catholic) College of St. 
Louis is farther down on 42d St. Two squares to the E. on 42d St. 
is the Grand Central Depot, the converging point of several railways. 
It is an enormous structure of brick and stone, covering 3 acres, and 700 
ft. long, bnilt in Renaissance architecture, with several lofty Louvre 
domes. On the corner of 5th Ave. and 43d St. is the Jewish Temple 
Ema^iuel, the chief of the 27 synagogues of the city, and the finest piece 
of Saracenic arcliitecture in America. The brick Clim'ch of the Holy 
Trinity, the iron Church of the Disciples, and tlie superb St. Bar- 
tholomew's Cliurch are near the depot. Tlie Windsor Hotel is at 5th 
Ave. and 46th St. ; the 4th Universalist Churcli is at 45th St. ; and the 
Collegiate Reformed Church is at 4Sth St. Ou •19th St. are the buildings 
of Columbia College, a venerable and w^ealthy institution, which Avas 
chartered (as King's College) by George II. of England in 1754. At the 
corner of 50th St. is the Cathedral of St. Patrick (Cath.), the grandest 
church in America. It was commenced in 1858, and is now open for 
services; the building occupying the highest poiiit on 5th Ave., and being 
firmly founded on solid ledges of rock. The material is white marble, and 
the architecture is the decorated Gothic of the 13th century. The front 
is to be guarded by two marble spires, each 328 ft. high, and adorned 
with statuary and rich carvings, Avliile the interior columns are of marble, 
sujiporting a high and ornate clere-storj'. The lofty and elegant front 
entrance is worthy of close inspection. N. of the cathedral is the Catholic 
Orphan Asylum, The spacious Church of St. Thomas (Epis.) is just 
above (on the 1.), near which is Dr. Hall's new church. At 59th St. is 
the Scholars' Gate to the 

Central Park. 

In 1S5(> the present site of the Park was a di<'ary and desolate region of swamps 
and ledges, dotted here and tliere with lieaps of rulibish and the shanties of a 
riidu and degraded jieople. In tliat year tlie work bei^an wliich has since given 
New York the most boautiful, and one of tlie largest ol' the parks of the world, — 
a work wliicli ii)) to tlie close of 1804 alone had cost .S9,2(K),000. The park is a 
parallelogram, 2| .M. long and J M. Avide, being 5 ?>I. N. of the J5attery, and nearly 
1 M. from the rivers ou either side. It includes SfiS acres, of which 185 are of 
water, 15 M. of (>arriage-roads, S M. of bridl(*-paths, and 25 M. of walks, while 
conimunieation across the island is eoiitliie<l to four sunken iY)ads which pass from 
E. to W. across the park and under its dri\e-ways. Park carriages are in wait- 
ing at tlie lower gates, and carry visitors all through the grounds, for a small sum. 
There are brilliant skating-carnivals on the froijen jionds during winter, and on 
summer afternoons (csixcially Sundays) the promenades and driveways are 
thronged. The park may be reached by either of st'veral lines of elevated riiilway, 
running from the Hattery and City-Hall Park, every few minutes. 

The Metropolitan Museum of Art (near 84th-St. station of Sd-Ave. 
Elevated Railway) contains the vast Ce>^nola Collections from Cyprus, and a groat 
nnmb«>r of paintings (hy Rubeus, Hals, Van Dyck, Miirlllo, Velazquez, etc.). Open 
fioo, \V\d., Thurs., i'ri., Sat ; other days, 25 cts. The Auiericau Museum of 



KEW YORK CITY. Route 51. do i 

Natural History (near 81st-St. station, 6th- Ave. Elevated Railway) is open free 
Wed., Thurs , Fri.,and Sat. It oontaiiis iuiuieuso collections, including the Ver- 
reaux, Elliot (birds of America), Prince Maximilian, Hall (N. Y. geology). Bemcnt 
(stone age of Denmark), Jay (shells), Squier (Mississippi Valley), and other rare 
groups. 

Near the Scholars' Gate (5th Ave.) is the old State Arsenal, a massive 
castellated building. Near the bust of Humboldt is the Pond (4| acres), 
an irregular sheet of water. Winding paths and drives conduct, by 
graceful curves and passing picturesque knolls and groves, bridges 
and arbors, to The Mall, the chief promenade and ornament of the 
park. At the entrance of this noble esplanade are tine bronze statues 
of William Shakespeare and Sir Walter Scott, and other groups and 
statues are seen at various points. The Mall is 1212 ft. long and 208 
ft. wide, and is bordered by double lines of tall trees. At the Music 
Pavilion, near the upper end, fine band-concerts are given on pleasant 
Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, and at such times the vicinity is 
filled with a gay and varied crowd. Tlie Mall is terminated by The 
* Terrace, a sumptuous pile of architecture, with frescoed arcades and 
con'idors, broad promenades, costly and elaborate balustrades, and high 
pedestals wliich are to be graced with synibolic statuary. Broad stone 
staii'ways lead down to the esplanade by the lake-side, on which is erected 
the most elegant fountain on the continent, with bronzes and rare mai'ble.s 
representing the Angel of Bethesda, A large flotilla of pleasure-boats 
is kept on the Central Lake (20 acres), and pleasant excursions may 
be made with little expense (taritis regulated by the commissioners). On 
the W. of the Mall is the Green, a broad lawn covering 15 acres, and 
destined for a parade-ground. Near the head of the Mall (on the r. ) is the 
Casino, a neat refectory on a high knoll. Crossing Central Lake by the 
graceful Bow Bridge, The Ramble is entered, — 36 acres of copse and 
thicket and craggy hill, bounded by the lake and threaded by a labyrinth 
of romantic foot-patlis. Tlie Vine-covered and Evergreen Walks, the 
Stone Arch, the Grotto, and other pretty objects are found in the Ramlile. 
On Vista Hill (to tlie N. ) is the Croton Reservoir, which covers 31 acres, 
is 105 ft. above tide-water, and contains 150,000,000 gallons of water. 
There are broad and far-viewing promenades on its walls of massive 
masonry. Just to the N. is the Xeio Reservoir, covering 106 acres and 
having a capacity of 1,000,000,000 gallons. The graceful curves of its 
shore-line are bounded by lofty stone walls of immense thickness, an*! 
ornamental gate-houses stand at its N. and S. eiids. Just S, W. of the 
rectangular (smaller) reservoir is the Belvidere, situated on high ground 
overlooking the park. Above the New Reservoir is the Upjjer Park, less 
visited and with less artificial embellishment then the Lower Park, but 
with more marked natural beauties. Passing the East and West Meadows 
the buildings of Mount St. YinccrJ aie seen on the E., where a pleasant 
15 V 



338 Route 51. NEW YORK CITY. 

refectory has been installed in the place formerly occupied by a Catholic 
Seminary. To the E. is the Arboretum, while close by, on the N., is 
Harlem Lake (covering 16 acres), with its bold S. shore lined with the 
remains of ancient fortifications. 

The * Lienox Library (reached by 67th-St. station of 3d-Ave. Elevated Railway) 
is a magnificent limestone building fronting on Central Park, at 70th St., and con- 
taining a library of 30,000 volumes, including many incunabula, and very rare 
works of immense value, Shakespeariana, Americana, etc. The picture-gallery 
contains 150 paintings, some of which are by Copley, Stuart, Reynolds, Turner, 
Gainsborough, Delaroche, Munkacsy, Vernct, Wilkie, etc. Admission by card 
(Tues., Thurs. , and Sat., from 11 to 4), obtained by written application to the 
Superintendent, 1001 Fifth Ave. 

Close by is the Lenox Hospital (Presbyterian), a quaint and ornate 
brick and stone structure, with tall and slender spires. A few rods 
distant (on the old Hamilton Square; and built at a cost of $300,000) is 
the spacious and imposing building of the Normal College, in the secular 
Gothic style, with a lofty and massive Victoria tower. The Foundling 
Hospital is still farther E., and in plain sight is the Mount Sinai 
Hosjntal, a cluster of stately buildings in Elizabethan architecture, erected 
at a cost of $ 340,000. The eld German park and beer-garden called 
Jones's Wood, is still farther E. at the river-side, and looks across on 
Blackwell's Island. 

From the point where Broadway reaches the park (corner of 8tli Ave. 
and 59th St. ) a grand avenue called the Boulevard, with a parked centre 
and graceful curves, runs N. to Manluittanville and Kings Bridge. This 
road passes (at 73d St.) the extensive stone building (Gothic) of the iV^. Y. 
07'phan Asylum, which looks down on the Hudson. The Leake an(l 
Watts Orphan House fronts on 110th St., and can accommodate 250 
children. Close by (on the E. )is the Morningside Park. At 115th St. 
is the Bloomingdale Asylum for the Insane, with spacious buildings in 
pleasant grounds. The Boulevard now leads by market-gardens and 
rural villas, to the village of ManhatlanviUe (130th St.), with the impos- 
ing Iniildings of the Convent of the Sacred Heart and of Manhattan 
College on the hill beyond. 

Environs of New York. 

The High Bridge is a structure worthy of the Roman Empire. It is 
1,450 ft. long, 114 ft. high, is supported on 14 piers, and is used to carry 
the Croton Aqueduct across Harlem River. It is built of granite, and 
cost $900,000. Near this point (11 M. from the City Hall) are the 
l)uildings of the Juvenile Asylum, while the elegant structure of the Insti- 
tution for the Deaf and Dumb is to the S. W. (near 165tli St.). Just 
across IManhattan Ishuid (which is narrow at this point) is Furt Washing- 



BROOKLYN. Route 51. 339 

ton, looking clown on the Hudson in a succession of fine views. The 
High Bridge may be reached hy the elevated railways which traverse 2d 
and 3d Aves., but the steamers which leave Peck Slip (12-15 times 
daily) for Harlem afford a more pleasant route. These boats pass up the 
East River, by the immense municipal charitable and correctional buiM- 
ings on BlacbweWs Island. The entire E. water-front of the city is ]i:issed, 
Astoria is visited, and,, leaving the tumultuous Hell Gate passage on the r., 
the l)oat enters a narrower cliannel with Ward's Island on the r. On this 
island are seen the imposing and extensive buildings of the Inebriate 
Asylum, together with the Lunatic Asylum and the Emigrant Hospitals. 
RayidalVs Island comes next (on the r.), with the House of Refuge and 
other civic charities. The steamer stops at Harlem Bridge, whence the 
High Bridge may be reached by smaller boats or by road. 

Brooklyn, the third city of the Union (5G(),Gr)3 iidiabitants), is joined 
to New York by several ferries across East River, and the world-renowned 
East-River Bridge, over 1 INI. long and 13.5 ft. high, built 1870-83, at a 
co.^t of ^15,000,000. Noble views are afforded from its centre. It is crossed 
by cars. The City Hall is 1 M. from the Fulton Ferry (corner of Court and 
Fulton Sts.), and is an elegant classic building of white marble, near wliich 
is the Kings-County Court House, built of marble in Corinthian architecture, 
at a cost of $ 540,000. There are many other tine public buildings in the city, 
while the private mansions (on Clinton Avenue, Brooklyn Heights, &c.) are 
worthy of notice. The U. S. Navy Yard is of the first class, and covers 
40 acres, with large depots oi materiel of war, ship-houses, barracks, &c., 
while the Dry Dock (which cost $1,000,000) is one of the best. Some 
fine vessels may be seen here, including the old line-of-battle ship Ver- 
mont. The JSIarine Hosjiital (500 i)atients) is a large granite building 
on the Wallabout Bay, where the British prison-ships were anchored 
during the Revolution, and where 11,500 patriot prisoners died. The 
Atlantic Dock fronts toward Governor's Island, and its long granite piers 
and immense warehouses merit a visit. The principal churches of the 
city ai'e the Catholic Cathedral, a superb structure (now building) on the 
corner of Lafayette and Vanderbilt Aves. ; the Plymouth Church (Henry 
Ward Beecher) on Orange, near Hicks St. ; the Church of the Pilgrims 
(Rev. R. S. Storrs, Jr.), corner of Henry and Remsen Sts.; and the 
Church of the Holy Trinity, corner of Clinton and Montague Sts. From 
the fact of its having 2-33 churches, Brooklyn has won and wears the 
name of " The City of Churches. 

Prospect Park (reached by horse-cars on Fulton St. and Flatbush Ave. ) 
is a noble lival of Central Park, covering 630 acres, and costing, since its 
commencement (in 1866), $9,000,000. The Plaza is a large, paved, circu- 
lar space at the entrance, with a statue of Lincoln, fountains, and flowers. 
There are broad and verdant meadov/s, large and umbrageous groves, 



340 Route 52. NEW YORK TO ALBANY. 

hills commanding superb views of the Bay of New York, Staten Island, 
and the Highlands of the Hudson and the Neversink. There is a pictu- 
resque lake of 61 acres, and the romantic variety of the natural scenery of 
this park, together with its height and its fine distant views, renders it 
the pride of Long Island. There are 8 M. of drives, 4 M. of rides, and a 
gi-eat number of rambles. 

Greenwood Cemetery is 3 51. from Fulton Ferry (horse-cars every 15 
minutes ; strangers not admitted on Sunday), and is the most beautiful 
cemetery in the world. It contains 413 acres of land, traversed by 20 M. 
of winding paths and driveways, and embellished with forests and lakes. 
Ocean Hill commands a view over the limitless sea, while Battle Hill 
overlooks New York and its Bay, Brooklyn, Jersey City, and the Hud- 
son. Many of the monuments are of much artistic merit, and the reve- 
nues of the cemetery are devoted to its adornment. 

To the E. of Brooklyn are the large cemeteries of "The Evergreens" 
and " Cypress Hills," beyond whicli are the quaint and pleasant old Long 
Island towns of Flushing and Jamaica. Still farther E. is Roslyn 
(steamer from Peck Slip), a sweet village on Hempstead Bay, near which 
is Cedarmere, the home of Bryant. Long Branch is 34 M. from New 
York (by steamer from Pier 8, N. R., to Sandy Hook, and thence by 
rail), and is the favorite seaside resort of the ''upper ten." It has a 
cluster of the most elegant and expensive summer-hotels on the coast, and 
has fine bathing and driving facilities. Coney Island is a favorite resort 
for the great mass of the citizens, and is quickly reached by boat from 
Pier 1, N. R., or by cars from Brooklyn. Excursions to the beautiful 
hills and vast fortifications on Staten Island ; to the cities of Jersey City, 
Elizabeth, and Newark ; and through Hell Gate to the island towns, will 
be found both pleasant and jn'otitaljle. 

62. New York to Albany. — The Hudson Eiver. 

The palatial steamers of the day line to Albanv leave Pier 39, N. R. (foot of 
Vestry St.) at 8. 30 a. m. The night boats leave Pier 41 (foot of Canal St.) at 6 
p. M. Tiic Hudson River Railroad runs from the Grand Central Depot (trains to 
Albany, 144 M., iu 5-5.^ Ins.); tlie Harlem Railroad station is on 42d St. 
(Grand Central Depot ; distance to Albany, \b\ M.). The day steamers will 
be preferred by the tourist, on account of the ])aiioramic views of the river- 
S(-enery thereby obtained, together witii the inununity from the dust and heat of 
the ears. The tare is !j5li (up and back, !53). 

The Hndson River Avas named in honor of the Dutch mariner who first explored 
it,— ascending in tlie yaeht " Half-Moon " as far as the Mohawk River. It has 
its rise in tlie Adirondaclv Mts., 4,000 ft. above the sea, and after tlie eonflueuec 
of several bi'anehes at Fort Edward, tai<es a southerly course to the Bay of New 
York. Large steamers ascend to Troy, 1;')0 M., and ships can go as far as Hudson, 
117 M. Vast (luantities of lumber are floated down tlie stream, while squadrons 
of eanal-Vioats are rre(iuently passed, bearing coal from Pennsylvania (by the Dela- 
ware and Hudson Canal to Roudoul) and grain from the West (by the iirie Canal 
to Albany), 




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THE HUDSON RIVER. Route 52. 341 

As the great steamer passes out into the stream, a fine view is afForded 
of the liarbor in tlie distance, the populous shores of Jersey City and 
Hoboken on the W., and the dense lines of piers and warehouses on the 
New York shore. Above Hoboken are the Elysian Fields and Castle 
Hill, crowned by the Stevens mansion ; and still beyond is Weehawken, 
where Aaron Burr, the political adventurer, shot (in a duel) Alexander 
[lamilton, a distinguished statesman and jurist, and for 6 years Secretary 
of the U. S. Treasury (1804). At and above Weehawken The Palisades 
begin to assume a bold aspect. Tliis is a vast trap-dyke, 3-500 ft. high, 
which nms along the r. bank from Hoboken to Haverstraw, with a lofty, 
columnar front, and masses of fragments at its base. It is less than 1 M. 
thick, and liides the Hackensack Valley from the Hudson. BuWs Ferry 
(W.) is a suiTimer-resort opposite 90th St. Manhattcmville (E.) is a vil- 
lage of New York City, near which are the Lunatic Asylum and the Con- 
vent of the Sacred Heart, just above which is Carmansville, and a large 
pile of fine buildings surmounted by a dome (the N. Y. Institution for 
the Deaf and Dumb). On the same shore, and fartlier N., is Fm't Wash- 
ington, on a bold clitf near 185th St. This was the citadel of the Ameri- 
can fortified lines in 1776, but was captured in November of that year, 
with its garrison of 2,600 men. On the W. shore is Fort Lee, wliose gar- 
rison, retreating after that event, was attacked and cut to pieces I>y a laige 
Hessian force. Over this point, where the cliffs loom up grandly, the 
Palisades Mountain House is seen. On Jefl'rey's Hook (E.) are the remains 
of a powerful redoubt which was built to defend the obstructions with 
which the river was filled, and near King's Bridge (by 217th St. ) were 3 
forts, about which there was desperate figliting early in 1777. A short 
distance above (E.), the moutli of Spuyten Duyvil Creek is passed. 

This stream is named after a legendary Dutch trumpeter who swore he would 
swiin the creek on his mission to the maiulaiid, " in spite of the devil " (en spiii/t 
den duyvil). He struggled violently when at mid-stream, gave one long trumpet- 
blast, and sank. At the mouth of this creek the Indiansattenii)ted to board Hud- 
sou's vessel (in 160'.t), but after a severe conflict they were repulsed and driven to 
the shore. Throughout the Revolutionary War, Spuyten Duyvil was the southern 
border of the " neutral ground," — a belt of about 30 M., which was incessantly 
swept by raids and guerilla bands. 

From the high promontory of the Palisades on the W. a road leads to 
the pretty New Jersey village of Engleivood, in the fertile valley of the 
Hackensack. Above Spuyten Duyvil is the village of Riverdale, near 
which (E. ) is Mount St. Vincent, a convent of the Sisters of the Sacred 
Heart. The castellated and towered stone building was the Font Hill 
mansion of Edwin Forrest, and the large brick biTilding was erected by the 
sisterhood after their acquisition of the estate. Yonkers (E.) is 17 M. 
from New York, and is a large and flourishing town at the mouth of the 
Neperan River, where many New York merchants live. Hudson made 
his second anchorage here (IGO'J), and traded with many Indians who 



342 Route 52. TARRYTOWN. 

came aboard his vessel. A naval battle was fought off Yonkers in 
1777 between the British frigates " Rose " and " Phoenix " and a tlotilla of 
American gunboats. This district constituted the ancient Philipse estate, 
tlie manor-house of wliich is still standing, and with its broad halls, lofty 
rooms, wainscoting, and Dutch tiles, has a truly antique air. Part of 
the manor was built in 1682, and the remamder dates from 1745, all the 
walls being of stone. Mary Philipse, the beautiful heiress of this estate, 
was the first love of George Washington, and, although he could not wiu 
her, he always remembered her fondly. 

A little above Yonkers (on the W.) is the highest point of the Palisades, 
and soon Hastings is seen on the E., a prosperous village whence much 
Westchester marble is shipped. Here Lord Cornwallis's British arjny 
crossed the Hudson, just l)efore Washington's retreat through the Jeiseys. 
1 M. above (E. ) is Dobbs' Ferry, an ancient village at the mouth of Wis- 
quaqua Creek, with ruins of old fortifications and a quauit old church. 
It was named for one Dobbs, a Swede, who kept a ferry here, and some 
years since a sharp controversy was raised by a well-supported but unsuc- 
cessful attempt to change the name to Paulding. Opposite this jtlace is 
Piermont, Avhere a pier 1 M. long (near the line between New York and 
New Jersey) projects from the W. shore to the deep-water channel. A 
branch of the Erie Railway runs thence to Suffern, 18 M. W. 2 M. from 
Piermont is the old village of Tappan, where Major Andre was tried and 
executed (1780), and the stone house which was Washington's head-quar- 
ters and Andre's prison is still standing. At Dobbs' Ferry begins a lake- 
like widening of the river called Tappan Zee (10 M. long, and 2 - 5 M. 
wide). Near Irvington, above the Ferry, are several fine mansions, among 
•which is "Sunnyside," the ancient and unique home, of Washington Irv- 
ing. It was built in the 17th century by Wolfert Acker, who inscribed 
over the door "Lust in Rust" (pleasure in quiet), whence the English 
settlers called it " Wolfert's Roost." The eastern front is covered with 
ivy, from a slip which Sir Walter Scott gave Irving at Abbotsford. Above 
" Sunnyside " is the Paulding Manor, a costly building of marble, in 
Elizabethan architecture, and still farther N. is Tarrytown, an ancient 
village beautifully situated on a far-viewing hillside. Near this village 
(the Terwe Dorp of the 17th century) is a quiet valley known of old as 
Slaeperigh Haven {"^\QGY>yllo\\ovf''), which has been immortalized by 
Irving. Carl's Mill, the Philipse Castle, and the bridge over the Pocan- 
tico, are still standing, and so is the old Dutch Church, built in the 17th 
century with bricks brought from Holland. 

A monument marks the place where Andre was captured. Benedict Arnold, a 
brave American general, had lieen coiirt-iuarti.iUxl and reprimanded for certaui 
derelictions in his coiuniaii-l of J'hiladclphia, and his ]»roud si>irit felt the stin<j; of 
dis>,'raoe so keeidv tliat lie resolved to bo revenged on his country, lie oi»eaed a 
secret correspoudeuce with the Brilisli, and otfcred to surrender West I'oiiit (to 



THE HIGHLANDS. Route 52. 343 

which he had boen transferrcfl). Major Andre, Adjutant-General of the British 
army, went up tlie Tapjian Zee on the sloop-of-war " Vulture," and landed by 
niglit at Stony Point, where he arranged with Arnold for the surrender. But the 
" Vulture " was forced to retire, and Andre, attempting to pass by land to New 
York, was halted in the neutral ground by a squad of irregular militia. He was 
searched, and the papers and plans of the surrender were found. Arnold escaped 
to the " Vulture," and became a Brigadier-General in the British army, receiving 
also §30,000, but Andre, being proven a spy, was executed amid the sorrow of 
both armies. He has a monument in Westminster Abbey. 

Nyach is opposite Tarrytown, while to the N. is Sing Sing, on a 
plecisant hillside, and near the end of the Croton Aqueduct, which lias a 
fine stone arch here. Near the river are the extensive marble buildings 
of the State Prison, which were erected by the convicts, and stand in 
grounds covering 130 acres. The place is usually overflowing with 
prisoners, who are guarded by sentinels and patrols. Opposite Sing Sing 
(meaning " Stony Place ") is Verdritege Hook or Point-no-Point, on 
whose upper slope is Rockland Lake, from which New York gets 200,000 
tons of ice yearly. Teller's (or Croton) Point, with its rich vineyards, is 
now approached, and the mouth of Croton River is seen. G M. up this 
river is a dam 240 ft. long, 40 ft. high, and 70 ft. thick at the bottom, 
wliich forms a lake of 400 acres with 40 ft. of water (500,000,000 gallons). 
From this point a closed aqueduct of stone and brick carries the water 
parallel with the Hudson for nearly 40 M. to the great reservoirs in the 
C!entral Park, New York. The aqueduct discliarges 60,000,000 gallons 
daily, with a down grade of 13^ inches to a mile, and the whole v/ork cost 
$14,000,000. 

The Highlands loom up boldly in front as the steamer crosses the 
beautiful Haverstraw Bay to the village of Haverstrww (W.), with the old 
stone mansion on Treason Hill, where Arnold and Andre met. Above is 
a line of limestone cliffs which have produced 1,000,000 bushels of lime 
yearly. 3 M. above (W.) is the bold and picturesque promontory of 
Stowj Point, with Verplanck's Point opposite. 

Both these places were fortified early in the Revolution, and were captured by 
the British army in June, 1779, inflicting a severe blow on the Americans from 
the loss of sucli a strategic position. Stony Point was fortilied by earthworks and 
aoahs, and well garrisoned, yet Gen. Wayne begged permission to attack it, savhig 
to Washington, " General, I '11 storm hell, if you '11 only plan it." With two small 
columns of picked men (of the 5tli Penu. Infantrv), on ttie night of July 15th Mad 
Anthony Wayne carried the fort at the point of the bayonet, under a heavy fire of 
musketry and grape-shot. Wayne was shot in the head, but, being borne into the 
captured works, soon recovered, and after cannonading Fort Fayette on Ver- 
planck s Point, he dismantled and abandoned the fort. The liglithouse stands 
on the site of the old magazine. 

3 M. from Stony Point (W.) is Caldwell's Landing, at the foot of the ab- 
rupt and imposing Dunderberg (Thimder Mt.), which was anciently be- 
lieved to be the home of malicious imps who hurled fierce tempests out on 
the river. Opposite Dunderberg is Peekskill, at the mouth of a creek which 
w as ascended long ago by Jan Peek, a Dutcli mariner, who was so pleased 



344 noatc52. WEST rCKv^T. 

with its fertile shores that he named it Peek's Kill, and settled there. Fort 
Independence crowned the hill a1)0vethe village during the Revolution, and 
liere Gen. Putnam had his head(iuarters, and " tried as a spy, condemned 
as a spy, and executed as a spy," the Englishman, Edmund Palmer (1777). 
An ancient church (built in 1767) and the venerable Van Cortlandt 
mansion are worthy of a visit. 

Bending to the W. at Peekskill, the Hudson enters that part of its 
course called the Race, and passes through the beautiful Higldands, which 
Avere compared by Chateaubriand to " a large bouquet tied at its base witli 
azure ribbon.'' From Peekskill to Newburgh the steamer passes through a 
panorama of river-scenery unexcelled in the world. Dunderberg on the 
1. confronts on the r. Anthony's Nose. 

This bold hill (1,12S ft. high) is named after Anthony Van Corlear, Gov. Btnyves- 
ant's trniu])eter. "Just at this nimncnt the illustnous sun, "iireakiiig in all his 
si'Icndnr from behind one ol' the high cHfrs of the Highlands, did dart one of his 
most jMitent beams full ujion the effulgent n^se of tlic sounder of Inass. The 
retlectitm of which shot straightway down, liissing hot, into the water, and killed 
a miglity stui'geon that was sporting beside tlie vessel. When this astonishing 
miracle came to be made known to I'eter ytuyvesant (tie! governor), he, as may 
Well be supposed, marvelled exceedingly; and as a monument tliercof, gave the 
name of Anthony's Nose to a stout jiroinontory in the neighborhood." 

Above Anthony's Nose is the romantic Brocken Kill, while opposite is 
the grape-abounding lona Island. Nearly opjiosite is the old Poplopen 
Kill, with some remnants of Forts Montgomery (N. ) and Clinton (S. ), on 
the promontories at its mouth. These Avorks, together with a massive 
chain and boom across the river, defended by a fleet of gunboats, were 
intended to close the Hudson against the British. But Sir Henry Clinton 
advanced in Oct., 1777, marching over the Dunderberg, and after a sharp 
skirmish at Lake Sinnijtink (still called Bloody Pond) his forces invested 
the forts. After a long struggle in the fog, duriiig which the British Heet 
moved up the river, the overpowered gai'risons gave Avay and fled to the 
hills, having lost 300 men. The American gunboats were then destroyed 
by their crews, and the Briti.sh broke away the chains and obstructions in 
the river (which had cost Congress $250,000). 

Tiie Hudson now turns to the N., and Highland Falls are soon seen on 
the]., near which is the fashionable and favorite Cozzens' Hotel. 1 M. 
above is the U. S. I\Ii]itary Aca<lemy at West Point. This place was 
fortified by Parsons's Conn. Itrigade in 1778, and was then called "the 
Gibraltar of America." Washington recommended the location of a 
national school here, and in 1S12 the school Avas established, since which 
the oflicers of the regular army have been educated here. There are 
barracks for the 250 Cailets, Avith riding-school, chapel, hosjiital, itc. The 
academy building is an extensive stone structure, in Gothic architecture. 
There are various trophies (of artillery, &c. ) about the grounds, and a 
library of 20,000 volumes in tlie main liuilding. Kosciusko's Garden is a 



NEWBURG. Route 52. 345 

beautiful hanging garden approached from the plain by Flirtation Walk, 
and containing a marble monument to the lieroic Polish cliieftain, who 
was wont to read and meditate here. Near the head of Flirtation Walk 
is a monument to the troops who were massacred in the Everglades of 
Floi'ida, in 1835. Fort Putnam is on tlie summit of Mount Independence, 
and commands fine views from its ancient and ruinous bastions. The 
Siege Battery is a practical work near the river. The Cadets are chosen 
by the national Congressmen and, after remaining here four years, enter 
the U. S. Army as seconddieutenants. The disciiiline is very strict, and 
during July and August of each year the corps goes into camp. 

Opposite West Point is Sugar Loaf Mt., under whose shadow is the 
Robinson House, Aimold's head-quftrters, and the Beverly Dock, whence- 
he escaped to the " Vulture." Passing Constitution Island, on the E. is 
seen Cold Spring, a pretty village near which is " Underclitf," the former 
home of the poet INIorris. Mt. Taurus looms up on the r., and is named 
from a cei'tain wild bull who Avas once the terror of the countryside, until 
he was hunted out and broke his neck on the next hill (N. ), since called 
Breakneck Hill (1,187 ft. high). On the W. bank. Just above West Point, 
is CW-jVest (1,418 ft. higli), which is separated from Boterberg by the 
I>icturesque Vale of Tem]je, where some part of the scene of " The Culprit 
Fay " Ui laid. Boterberg (otherwise called Butter Hill and Storm King) 
is a bold and imposing mountain 1,529 ft. high, at whose northern slope 
is the pretty village of Cornwall. " Jdlewild," the home of N. P. Willis, 
is near Cornwall, beyond which the decadent village of New Windsor is 
seen. 

Newburgh {Orange Hotel) is a busy city of over 17,000 inhabitants, built 
on the steep slope of a high hill, and showing finely from the river. There 
are many pretty villas on the heights, and a few very neat churches, while 
the water-front is lined with warehouses. The city has some manufac- 
tories, and a considerable country trade, while immense quantities of coal 
are brought hei'e from Pennsylvania (by a branch of the Erie Railway 
rimning up the Quassaic Valley to Greycourt, 19 M. distant), and shipped 
to all parts of the Hudson Valley. 

S. of Newburgh is the old Hasbrouck Mansion, an antique stone house which 
was Washington's head-tiuurters in 1783, wliilethe Continental armj' was encamped 
here to watch the British at New York. C'ertaiu liigli officers of the army, doubt- 
ing tlie feasibility of a republic, circulated an address to that effect, and (indirectly) 
offered to make Wasliingtou King of America. The noble Virginian spurned tlie 
proposal, and after he had delivered an earnest address to a council of otticers they 
resolved unanimously, " That tlie officers of the American army view with abhor- 
rence, and reject with disdain, tlie infamous projiosition contained in a late anony- 
mous address to the officers of the army." 

A steam-ferry crosses the river from Newburgh to Fishkill-on-the-Hud- 
son, on a fertile plain N. of the S. Beacon Hill (from which noble views 
are alforded). The manufacturing village of Matteawan is about Ig M. 
15* 



346 Route 52. POUGHKEEPSIE. 

distant, and the ancient Dutch town of Fishkill is 5 M. to the E. 2 M. 
N. E. of the river village (the Landing) is the Verplanck Honse, once the 
head-quarters of Baron Steuben, and the place where the Society of the 
Cincinnati was formed (in 1783). As the steamer passes N,, there are fine 
retrospects of Boterberg, Breakneck Hill, and the Matteawan and Shawan- 
gunk Mts. On the W. bank, opposite the village of Low Point, is a rocky 
platform which was named "the Devil's Dance-Chamber" by Hendrick 
Hudson, after seeing there a midnight pow-wow of painted Indians. 

But Knickerbocker, describing Gov. Stiiyvesant's voyage, says, " Even now I 
have it on tiie point of my pen to relate, liow his crew was most horribly fright- 
ened, on going on shore above the Highlands, by a gang of merry, roystering devils, 
frisking and curveting on a huge flat rock which projected into the river, and 
ivliich is called the Duyvell's Dans Kamerto this very day." 

New Hamburg, and Barnegat (on the E. shore), Hampton, Marlborough, 
and Milton (on the W. shore), are small river-villages, which are passed 
during the next 15 M. Poughkeepsie {Morgan House) is a city of 20,000 
inhabitants, situated on the E, bank, 75 M. from New York. It was 
settled by the Dutch in 1698, and its name is derived from the Indian 
Apokeepsing ("safe harbor"). It is situated on a plateau above the 
river, and has some good public buildings and famous schools, with a 
large and lucrative country trade from the rich farm-lands of Dutchess 
Comity. About 2 M. from the city (horse-cars run all the way) is Vassar 
College, the largest and most renowned female college in the world. It 
occupies a range of imposing buildings secluded amid extensive grounds, 
and has about 400 students, who pursue the higher classical and scientific 
studies, and receive degrees in due form. Among the distinguished resi- 
dents of Poughkeepsie are Benson J. Lossing, the historian ; A. J. Davis, 
the head of the Spiritualist gect (sometimes called " The Poughkeepsie 
Seer") ; and Prof. S. F. B. Morse (died in 1872), one of the originators 
of the electric telegraph. 

New Paltz is opposite Poughkeepsie, and 5 M. above (E.) is the hand- 
some village of Hyde Park, named after Sir Edmund Hyde, a near rela- 
tive of Queen Anne, who was an early Governor of New York. This land 
was bought mid named by his private secretary. The village is near a 
sharp bend in the river, called by Datch "Krom Elleboge " ^crooked 
elbow), and now known as Crom Elbow. 1 M. above is " Placentia," the 
former home Df James K. Paulding, the essayist and satirist, and Secre- 
tary of the U. S. Navy (1839-41). The river-banks are now low and un- 
picturesque, but an air of rich rural peace pervades the coimtry-side, and 
handsome villas are seen on the banks. Astor's mansion (W.), Esopus 
Island, and Staatsburg (E.) are passed, with the majestic blue peaks of 
the Catskills drawing nearer on 1,he N. Port Ewen and Rondout, on the 
W., are busy towns, with large foreign populations engaged in the manu- 
facture of cement and the tian&fe/ ti" xal, which is brought here in im- 



CLERMONT. Route 52. 347 

rneiise quantities over the Delaware and Hudson Canal. 2 M. inland, on 
Esopus Creek, is Kingston, wliich was settled by the Huguenots in 1665, 
and was sacked and biirned by Gen, Vaughan, with 3,000 British troops, 
in 1777. The first constitution of New York was formed in a legislative 
session at Kingston (1777), and here Vanderlyn, the artist, was born 
(1776). Opposite Rondout is Rhinebeck-on-the-Hudson, 2 M. from the 
old village which was founded by William Beekraan in 1647. He came 
from the Rhineland, and named his settlement for himself and his old 
home river. S. of the Landing is " Wilderclift'," the former estate of the 
eminent Methodist, Freeborn Garretson. Above this place is "Ellerslie," 
tlie home of the Hon. Wm. Kelly (the estate fronts for 1^ M. on the 
river), while near the Landing is tlfe old fortress-mansion of the Bcek- 
nians (built of stone, in the 17th century). Above Rliinebeck is " Roke- 
by," W. B. Astor's residence, which was built by Gen. Armstrong, Secre- 
tary of War, 1813- 14 ; and " Montgomery Place," the Livingstons' man- 
sion, built by Gen. Montgomery's widow (a Livingston). Above Barry- 
town is the estate of " Annandale," and in the groves of Cruger's Island 
(near the W. shore), is a picturesque and truly ancient ruin, which was 
imported, from Italy some years since. Near Aimandale is an elegant 
little chapel, and St. Stephen's College (Episcopal), endowed by Mr. Bard, 
the owner of the estate. Barrytown and Tivoli are the landings for the 
antiquated inland towns of Lower and Upper Red Hook. Opposite Tivoli 
(wliich has the old De Peyster Mansion) is the flourishing factory-village 
of Saugerties, at the mouth of Esopus Creek, and 2 M. above is Maiden. 
Opposite Maiden is Clermont, the liome of the patrician family of 
Livingston (descended from the Earls of Linlithgow), which has had such 
great influence in New York State. T!ie old manor was above German- 
town, and Chancellor Livingston built a new one on the site of Clermontj 
but Vaughan's British raiders destroyed both houses (in 1777). New 
ones were soon erected, and the Chancellor, being a]ii)ointed Ambassador 
to France, met Robert Fulton in Paris, and became deeply interested in 
the new tlieories of steam navigation. In 1787 John Fitch built and 
worked a steamboat at Philadelphia, and in 1789 one had been operated 
on tlie Clyde (near Glasgow), but both inventors liad given up tlie idea 
of the feasibility of steam navigation. In 1807 Livingston and Fulton 
built a steamboat in New York, called the " Clermont " (but popularly 
termed "Fulton's Folly"), which ascended the Hudson to Albany in 32 
hours, to the great amazement of all the people. 

The Catskill Mts. are now seen in the W., witli the famous Mountain Hnnse 
far up ou one oftlieir ])eaks, wliite as a snow-drift. From the village of Catskill 
(with its sn]ieil» ProspfM^t Park Hotel overlooking the river) frequent stages run 
to the Mountain House (in 3-4 hrs. ; fare, $2.50), passing through Sleepy 
Hollow, where Rip Van Winkle is said to have taken his 20 years' nap. The 
Mountain House is near the edge of a clitf, 2,212 ft. aluiN'e the r!\er, and com- 
mands a * * view extending over 10,000 s(iuare miles, embracing jiarts of four 



348 Route 52. ALBANY. 

States, 60 M. of tlie Hi\dson Valley, the distant cities n'" Albany and Troy, and the 

surrounding peaks of the Catskills. The Soutli and North Mts., the Two Lakes 
and ihe High Falls, and the Stony, Cauterskill, and Plattekill Cloves (noLi-hcs) 
sliould be visited. There are other hotels among the nits., and tine lishiug is 
found on the remote streams. The small villagcof P((/c7irtZ/t' lias several boniTling- 
liouses, much visited by artists. Amid this scenery lived and labored Thomas 
Cole, tlie ]iainter of the thi'ee series of impressive allegorical ]jictures i-epresenting 
" The Course of Empire," " The Voyage of Life," and "The Cross and the World" 
(the latter was left incomplete at his death). 

4 M. above Catskill, on tlie E. bank, is Hudson ( Worth House), a liaml- 
some city on a liigli promontory, with a fine river-side avenue called the 
Promenade, leading to the top of Prospect Hill (200 ft. high) which looks 
over on the Catskills. The city was founded by 30 Quakers from Provi- 
dence, in 1784, and now contains 10,000 inhabitants. It is at the head of 
ship navigation, and is the terminus of the Hudson and Boston Railroad 
(to Chatham). The marble Court-House of Columbia County is located 
here, and there are several very neat churches in the city. 4 M. N. are 
the Columbia Sulphur Springs, with a large hotel and a picturesque lake, 
while New Lebanon (see page 146) is often visited from this point. A 
steam-ferry leads from Hudson to the small village of Athens, Avhence a 
branch of the N. Y. Central Railroad diverges to Schenectady. 4 M. N. 
is Four Mile Point, with its lighthouse, opposite Stuj^esant Landing, 5 
M. from Kinderhook, where Martin Van Buren, 8th President of the U. 
S., was born, and where he died, on his estate of '' Lindenwald." Cox- 
sackie is a rambling village on the W. shore, and New Baltimore and 
Schodac are soon passed. Above New Baltimore and near the W. shore 
is Beeren Island, on whose rocky summit once stood the castle of Rens- 
selaerstein, pertaining to Killian Van Rensselaer, the Patroon of Albany. 
The Helderberg Mts. are seen in the W. as the steamer passes Coeynian'sj 
Castleton is then passed, on the E. ; the immense and costly national 
dikes are seen stretching along the shore ; and the populous hills of Al- 
bany are rapidly approached. 

Albany (* Delavan House; Kenmore; Stanwix Hall), the capital of 
New York, is a prosperous commercial city at the confluence of the Ei-ie 
and Champlain Canals and the Hudson River, 144 M. from New York 
City. It has over 80,000 inhabitants, and is famed for its extensive brew- 
eries and cattle-yards, while the workshops of the N. Y. Central Railroad 
employ over 1,000 men. Vast quantities of Western produce pass to and 
through Albany by means of the Erie Canal, which has here a great ter- 
minal l)asin shielded by a breakwater 80 ft. wide and 4,300 ft. long. The 
Sustpiehanna R. R. (from Binghamton ; 142 M.), the N. Y. Central R. 
R. (from Buffalo — 297 M. — and the West), and the Rensselaer and 
Saratoga R. R. (from Saratoga, Rutland, and Lake Champlain) converge 
here from the W. and N., and are united by 2 double-tracked bridges 
of stone and iron CI INI. long; costing S 2,500,000) to the great railway 
lines running S. and E. beyond the liudsun. The city has a couiaiaudiug 



ALBANY. Rnite52. 340 

situation, and contains many fine public buildings, chief iimoni,^ which is 
the new * Capitol, tlie larg-est and most expensive granite ijuilding on the 
continent. Begun in 18(50, it has ah-eady cost .1? ]4:,0(>{),000, and will cost 
$3-5,000,000 more. It is of Keiiaissance architecture, 800 by 400 feet in 
area. The Assembly Chamber is covered by the largest groined arch in 
the world. The mural paintings in this room, the only work of the kind 
ever done by Wm. M. Hunt, attract a great deal of attention; and the 
building as a whole is regarded as one of the most interestinir in America. 
The .Senate Chamber (finished in marble) is not equalled outside of Venice. 
Another much admired i)uilding is the new City Hall, one of Mr. H. H. 
Richardson's happiest efforts. This is on the same square with the 
Capitol, The Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is a 
costly building, with handsome stained-glass windows. A still more 
elaborate and expensive cathedral for the Episcopal Diocese has just been 
begun. The State Museum of Natural History, in Geological Hall, at- 
tracts many visitors, who are admitted free. One of the pleasantest 
features of Albany is its Park (take State-St. or Hamilton-St. horse-cars), 
\ M. S. W. of the Capitol, 80 acres admirably laid out in drives, walks, 
groves, flower-beds, etc. The Rural Cemettry, 4 M. N., should also ])e 
visited, if only to see the famous statue of the Angel of the Sepulchre, by 
E. I). Palmer. The Medical College, the College of Pharmacy, and the 
Law School are branches of Union University. The leading industries 
are stove-making and brewing. There are also large lumber and cattle 
markets. 9 daily newspapers are printed here. (For additional particu- 
lars consult the'Albany Hand-Book.) , The spacious Gothic Church of 
St. Joseph, on Ten-Broeck St., is worthy of inspection. The State 
Arsenal is a strong castellated building on Eagle St., near some hand- 
some churches. 1^ M. S. W. of the city are the buildings of the Alms- 
house, Insane Asylum, Fever Hospital, and Industrial School, all on one 
large farm. On a hill in the N. part of the city, is the Dtulley Obser^ 
vatory, richly endowed by Mrs. Dudley, and furnished with a costly 
collection of astronomical instruments and hooks. In the same part 
is the Van Rensselaer Manor House and its park, an interesting old 
building on the site first occupied by Kilian Van Rensselaer, Patroon 
of Beverwyk. This gentleman received from the Dutch king, in 1G37, a 
patent, covering about 1,150 square miles, embracing most of the present 
counties of Albany, Rensselaer, and Columbia, and here he ruled in feudal 
state. The family has ever since remained powerful and Avealthy. The 
Scliuyler House is another ancient mansion above the city, which was 
built by Col. Peter Schuyler, a distinguished colonial leader in the 17th 
century. 

Albany was founded by the Dutch in 1614, and in 1623 a fort was built and 
named Fort Orange. The settlement was called Beverwyk, or Williamstadt, and 
in 1GU4, when the British took the place, it was named Albany in honor of 
tlie British crown-prince, James, Duke of York and Albany. It was then sur- 
rounded by timber-walls, witli six gates, parts of which were standing in 1812. 
In lt)S6 tlie city was <diartered, and in 17^8 it became the capital of tlie State. A 
provincial congress, which met here in 1754, formed such a iilan of uiuon for the 
colonies that concerted action was possible when later events requirod it. Since 
the construction of the P>ie and Chainplain Canals and the great systems of rail- 
roads whicli converge here, Albany has continued to increase in wealth and X'ros- 
perity. 



350 Route 53. ALBANY TO MONTREAL. 



53. Albany to Montreal 

By the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad, running N. from Albany to Saratoea 
Springs, Wliiteluili, and Rutland. ^ 

Soon after leaving the city, the Rural Cemetery is passed, and the train 
reaches W. Troy, tlie seat of the National Arsenal of Watervliet, with its 
30 buildings and 100 acres of grounds. On the E. is seen Troy {American 
House; Mansion House), a floui-ishing city of nearly 60,000 inhabitants 
situated on an alluvial plain 6 M. N. of Albany. It is an important rail- 
road-centre, and has many large manufactories (iron foundries, cotton and 
woollen gooils, cars, Bessemer steel, &c.) fronting on the Hudson. The 
Troy Hospital, Marshall Infirmaiy, Orphan Asylums, and Warren Free 
Institute are tlie pi-incipal charitable foundations ; while the Rensselaer 
Polytechnic Institute and other tine academies attest the intelligence of 
the citizens. The streets are wide and well i)aved, and tlie marble Court 
House and the line churches (notably those of St. Paul and St. JoJm) are 
worthy of attention. The city is built near the mouth of the Poestenkill, 
a)id is overlooked by Mounts Ida and Olvinj.us. St. Joseph's Seminary 
is upon the heights, and is a Catholic institution of high grade and wide 
reputation. Troy was founded by men of New England, and became a 
city in 1816. In 1862 full forty acres of its settled portion was burnt 
over, causing a loss of S 3,000,000. 

Beyond W. Troy the train passes Cohoes, a large manufacturing town 
at the Falls of the Mohawk River, 3 M. above which the Erie Canal 
crosses the river in a stone aqueduct 1,137 ft. long, resting on 26 jiiers. 
The train now crosses the Moliawk, and follows the r. bank of the Hudson 
to Meclianicsville, where it turns to the N. W. Stations, Jiaund Lake 
(near the celebrated Methodist camp-ground) and Ballston, whose mineral 
waters were foi-merly much visited. There are several fine sjjrings, the 
most valualde of wliich is known as the Lithia Spring. 7 M. beyond 
Ballston the train reaches the village of 

Saratoga Springs. 

Hotels.— The * United States is on Broadway, and has 1,100 rooms (it cost 

ov;t .^1,000,000). Tlio* Grand Union has a fr.)ut on Broadway 1,304 ft. long, 
witli 824 rooms. The * Windsor is a new hotel opposite the Clarendon. * Con- 
gress Hall is opposite the Grand Union, and has 1,016 ft. of frontage (on three 
streets), with hroad piazzas, roof-prouienades, and su])erl) parlors. This liouse 
WIS built in ISas, and is of an impo.sing form of architect'.ire. The * Grand 
Central llottd is on Broadway, opposite Congress H ill, aud is a superb house, 
with over 700 ft. frontage, and Ga) rooms. The *Cli;-endo:i is an aristocratic 
resort aniid stately elm-groves o;>posite Congress Park. The * Windsor is 
near by. Tlie American (on Broadway) aceommoi.lates oJO guests ; the Marvin 
House (eorner Broadway and Division Streets), 250; the Continental, 210; the 
Columbian, 200. B^-si les those ab')ve-n:imed, there are 42 hotels in and near 
the village, tog-ther v.'ith several great water-(!ure establisli meats under the care 
of experienced doctors, aud many quiet and inexx)ensive boardiuij-houses. The 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. Route 53. 351 

«Tnr.;e.s at the prinr-ipil hotels are $4.50-6.00 a <lay, or 325 -35.00 a week, wliile 
every vaiicty of pri^-e and accoiiimo(hitiou may be found aiuoiig the smaller \m- 
tels. PloMsaut quarters may be found in the boarding-houses for from $10 to 
$"20 a week. 

Carriages. — 50 c. each passenger for a .course within the hounds of the village 
(ba;4L;a;4(! extra). A coachman and span may be hired for $75.00 a month. 

Ainuseineiitg. — The Opera House, attached to the Grand Union House, 
seats l,5(Ht persons. There are nightly hops in the elegant ball-rooms attached to 
the three chief hotels, and grand balls once a week at each of these houses. Guests 
pay S I for admission to the balls, which are the most brilliant on the continent. 
The Races come off in July and August (second week), on one of tlie best of the 
American race-courses (1 M. from Congress Spring). The swiftest horses are 
entered at these famous contests, and some of the most remarkable races of tlie 
past decade liave taken place here. Music is discoursed by bands connected with 
the liotels, several times daily, and promenades take place in the parks, parlors, 
and piazzas. 

Churclies. — The Methodist and the Episcopal Societies have fine buildings 
on Waslungton St., near the Grand Union. The Baptist Church is on the same 
street, and the Presbyterian Church is on upj)er Broadway. The Catholics meet 
at their church on S. Broadway (near the Clarendon), and tiie Congregationalists 
meet on Fhila 8t. (over tiie i^ost-Olli -c). The V. }>V. C. A. reading-room and hall 
are in the Town Hall (corner of Broadway and Church St.). 

Omnibuses run frequently to the spnngs beyond the village limits, and to 
Saratoga Lake. A small steamer plies on the lake. 

Railroads. From Boston to Saratoga by Routes 22 and 53 ; by Route 25 : 
by Routes 20 and 2S (the favorite route, through trains in 9 hrs.). From New 
York bythrougli express (without change) on the Hudson River Railroad, in5|hrs. 
(ISO M.) ; or by Route 52 to Albany, and thence by Route 53. Saratoga is 38 M. 
from Albany : 274 M. from Philadelphia ; 412 M. from Wasliington ; 841 M. from 
Chicago ; 392 M. from Quebec ; 311 M. from Niagara ; 45 M. from l^ake Cham- 
plain ; and 2,292 M. from New Orleans. The Adirondack Railroad (station on 
Washington St.) runs N. from Saratoga to North Creek (57 M.). 

Sai-atoga Springs, one of the foremost of the suniTnev-vesorts of America 
and of the worhl, is situated in Eastern New York, about midway between 
Albany and Lake George. Like Newport by the sea, it is often called 
** the Queen of American watering-places," and this dual sovereignty is 
generally acknowledged. The village is situated on a plateau a few M. 
W. of the Hudson River, and has a resident population of about 9,000. 
The hotel system of Saratoga is unrivalled elsewhere in the world, and 
although equal to the accommodation of 16-18,000 guests, it is taxed to 
its utmost capacity during the month of August (the season opens early 
in June). Broadway is the main street, and extends for several miles, 
with the chief hotels near its centre and a succession of costly villas be- 
yond. Circular St. and Lake Ave. are also famed for their elegant sum- 
mer-residences, while large medical establishments and boarding-houses 
are found on the quieter side-streets. The village is at its brightest ixi 
August, when it is thronged l^y visitors from all parts of the republic and 
from Europe, while over 3,000 private carriages, together with the caval- 
cades from the public livery-stables, join in the parade of fashion on 
Broadway and tlie Boulevard. Although the greater part of the visitors 
come from the central Atlantic States, the number from beyond that dis- 
trict is still so great as to give a continental or even a cosmopolitan Havor 
to the summer society. The merry music of the bands, the regidar pro- 



352 Route 53. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

cessions of elegant carriages on the favorite (Iri\'es, the ci'owds gathering 
about tlio springs at the fashionable hours for drinking, the brilliant hops 
and the world-renowned balls at the grand hotels, and the surging of the 
multitude toward the railroad station at the time of the incoming trains, 
furnish endless resources for observation and anmsement. 

Congress Park is a pleasant ground for a ramble, and consists of a 
low ridge sweeping around the Congress and Columbian Springs. It is 
opposite the chief hotels, and is well laid out in ])aths, and adorned with 
many of the great elms which are the only natural beauties to be found 
in Saratoga. N. of the Paik is the Indian Camp, where a band of French 
half-breeds and Indians encamii during the summer, carrying on a lucra- 
tive trade in bead-work, baskets, moccasins, and other small-wares. The 
Circular Railway is near the camp, and is supposed to afford visitors a 
beneticial exercise. A little way beyond the camp (on the r. side of Cir- 
cular St.) is the popular Temple Grove Seminary, whose fine building is 
used during the summer as a boarding-house for families. On the same 
street, and just beyond the Seminary, is the Drs. Strong's Institute (100 
guests) for the i)i-actice of the water, vacuum, and movement cures. 
About 1 M. N. of the Park (on Broadway) is the race-course and hotel at 
Glen Mitchell, with finely arranged grounds and shady groves. 

The luiiieral springs rise in a stratum of Pntsdajii samlstnne near a great break 
or lissuri' in tlie strata underlying the Saratoga Valley, iind reach the surface by 
liassing through a hed of 1>lue clay. Most of the s]irings are owned by stock eoni- 
])aiiies, one of Avliich has a ca]>ital of %: 1,000, 000, andciintrols the Congress, Colum- 
bian, and Empire Sjirings. The jirocess of boring artesian wells has Vteeu intro- 
duciid with njuch luotit, and some of the most valuable of the new sources have 
been discovered in that waj'. Immense (luantities of^thi; waters are sent away to 
all iiarts of the United States, for the treatment of invalids at home, though the 
])roc(!Ss of bottling and ]iacking is difficult and costly. In the year lS6(i, H()0,000 
bottles were sent away I'rom the Empire Spring alone. The jirineipal ingredients 
of the waters are cari)onic-aciil and salt, with bi-cai'bonates of lime, magnesia, 
soda, iron, and lithia, of which the varying jtroportions cause the })eeuliar ehar- 
acteristies of the ditlerent springs. The visitor may freely drink at any of the 
sources, the water being dipi>ed up by boys (to whom a small gratuity is some- 
times given)' The cathartic waters should be taken before breakfast, three glasses 
being a fair (luantity ; the alterative waters should be taken in small quantities 
throughout the day ; the tonic (iron) waters must be drunk after midday; and 
the diuretic wateis should be taken before each meal. 

The Columbian Spring is in Congress Park, near the Congress. It 
was discovered in 1806, and is the favorite among the residents of the vil- 
lage. Tills water contains a perceptible amount of iron, with considerable 
carbonic-acid gas, and acts as a decided tonic and diuretic. 

The Congress Spring is pleasantly situated in Congress Park, and 
close to Congress Uall. It was found by a party of hunters in 1792, 
and was so named because there was a Congressman among their number. 
It was soon after choked by unskilful tubing, and was found again in 
1804. The exportation of the water began in 1823, and now it has a con- 
tinental fame, and is also sold in Europe. It contains in each gallon dOO 



SARATOGA SrrJNGS. Route 53. 353 

grains of chloride of sodium, 143 grains of bi-carhoiiate of lime, and 122 
grains of bi-carbonate of magnesia, with 86 grams of other elements. 
Tliis water is cathartic and alterative, and is benetieial in diseases of the 
liver and kidneys. More of it is drank than of the water of any other 
American spring, and its vicinity is thronged every bright summer morn- 
ing with health-seekers from the hotels. 

Tlie Washington Spring is in the Recreative Garden of the Clarendon 
Hotel (across Broa<lway from the Columbian). It was opened in ISOO, 
and while being renovated and shafted in 1858 a great flood of water and 
gas burst fortli into the subterranean tunnel, and i'orced the workmen to 
flee for their lives. Tliis is the most pleasant water in the valley, and lias 
a taste of iron, with strong tonic properties. It is sometimes called " the 
Champagne Spring," and is situated among stately pine-groves. 

The Crystal Spring, under the Grand Central Hotels was discovered in 
1870. It is tainted with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is alterative in its 
effects. The llathorn Sjrrlng is opposite Congress Hall, on Spring St. 
It was discovered in 1868, and is a very powerful cathartic. Each gallon 
contains 510 grains of chloride of sodium, 171 grains of bi-carbonate of 
liine, and 176 grains of bi-carbonate of magnesia, besides an extraordinary 
amount of lithia. The llamiWm Spring is near the Hatlicrn, and back 
of Congress Hall (corner Spring and Putnam Sts.), It is diuretic and 
cathartic in its operation, ami is mainly used for diseases of the kidneys. 
The Putnam Spring is on Phila St., near the Post-Office, and is tonic in 
its etfects. 

The Pavilion Spring is in a pretty park on Lake Ave., very near 
Broadway. It was tubed in 1839, and has a wide reputation for its 
cathartic properties and itsefhcacy in dyspepsia and bilious complaints. 
Of late years it has iinjiroved in (piality ami in })opnlarity. The United 
States Spring is under the same beautiful colonnade, and is tonic in its 
properties, while from its sparkling character it is used for giving life and 
flavor to still wines. 

The sources i)reviously mentioned are near each other, in the centre of 
the village. The Seltzei", High Ptock, Star, Empire, Red, Excelsior, and 
Eureka are in a long line in the N. part of the village. The Seltzer 
Spring is on tlie old Willow Wcdk, not far N. of the Pavilion. This is 
the least saline of the Saratoga waters and closely resembles the Nassiui 
Spring of Germany. It bubbles up through a liigh glass-tube, agitatcl 
now and then by the passage of carbonic-acid gas. It is a pleasant and in- 
vigorating beverage. 

The High Rock Spring is about 150 ft. from the Seltzer, and is tlio 
oldest known of the springs. In 1767 a party of Indians brought Sir Wm, 
Johnson thither on a litter, and after spending some Aveeks here drinkuig 
the medicinal waters, he was cured. The water rises in a cylindrical 

w 



354 Route 53. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

opening in a rock of conical shape, 3^ ft. high and 24 ft. around, — a 
natural curb of tufa which has been formed by the ndneral deposits from 
the spring. The water is decidedly saline to the taste. 

The Star Spring (formerly called the Iodine) is near the High Rock. 
This is tlie favorite nuueral water in New England, and vast quantities of 
it are shipped in kegs and bottles. It is cathartic in effect, and acid in 
taste, and is l)eneficial for rheumatism and cutaneous diseases. 

Tiie Empire Spring is N. of the Star (at the head of Circular St.). It 
very much resembles the Congress water in its constituents and effects 
(cathartic). The Red Syring is just beyond the Empire (on Spring Ave. ) 
This water is chieily (and extensively) used as awash, and is especially 
efficacious in diseases of the skin and the blood. Dyspepsia is benetited, 
and salt rheum is cured by this agency. The " A " Spring (on Spring 
Ave., beyond the Red) is becoming popular as a cathartic agent, having, 
moreover, a pleasant taste. 

The Excelsior Spring is nearly 2 M. N. E. of Congress Park, and is 
readied by Spring Ave., or by a forest-path turning off from Lake Ave., 
an<l leading through beautiful woodland scenery. The Excelsior water is 
pleasant to the taste, and mildly cathartic in its operations. Near this 
place are the Minnehaha, Union, and other sources, fonning a group called 
tlie Ten Springs. The Eureka Spring is reached l)y following the park- 
like valley for a few rods beyond the Excelsior, It is situated amid 
channing foi-est scenery, and is gaining popularity as a cathartic agent, 
beneficial for cases of dyspepsia, and liver and stomach diseases. Near 
this place is the Eureka White Sul})hur Spring, with a copious flow of 
water charged with sulpliuretted hydrogen. This is one of the best hepatic 
springs in the State, and is efficient in many affections of the glands, skin, 
stomach, &c. It is taken internally and extei-iially, — the latter at the 
bath-houses (50 c. a bath) in the vicinity. Hourly stages run from the 
great hotels to the Eureka Springs. 

The Glacier Spouting Spring is 1 M. S. of the village, near the Balls- 
ton road. It was discovered in 1871 by sinking an artesian well, 300 ft. 
deep, to the Trenton limestone stratum. The proportion of minei-al 
constituents in this water is very large, and it is a powerful cathartic, 
beneficial also in diseases of the kidneys and liver. 

The Geyser Spouting Spring is not far from the Glacier, near the 
Ballston road and tlie lailroad. It was discovered in 1870 by boring a 
well 140 ft, deep, and the water jets up for over 25 ft., being impelled by 
carbonic-acid gas. This is the coldest of the waters of Saratoga, and has 
a larger amount of mineral matter than any other. It is strongly cathartic, 
and is lively and pleasant to the taste. Between the Glacier and the 
Geyser is the FAUs Spring (chalybeate). 

Saratoga Lake is about 4 M. from the village, and is reached by the 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. Rmtc 53. 355 

favorite drive cnlled the Boulevard (entered by following the street which 
lies between Con_;-ress Hall and the Park). This road passes near the 
race-course and the trout-ponds. Saratoga Lake is 8 M. long and 2-3 M. 
wide, and furnishes good tishing and boating. The scenery is tame, 
although the views from Chapman's Hill (1 M. from the Lake House) 
and Wagman's Hill are pleasing. Laka Lovely is a sequestered pond 
among the hills near the Boulevard. It is a favorite place for picnics, and 
has some line woodland scenery. 

Lake Luzerne is 22 M. N. of Saratoga (by the Adirondack Raih'oad), and 
is a pictures(iue slieijt of water with two good hotels (Rockwell's and the 
Wayside). The I'ailvoad exhibits some remarkable engineering and steadily 
rising grades, while the lake affords good tishing and boating. Stages rmi 
from Luzerne to Caldwell (10 M.). 

The battle of Stillwater was fought on Beuns Ileiglits, about 15 M. S. E. of the 
Springs, and 2 M. from tiie Hudson River. Gen. Biirgoyne marclied south from 
Canada in June, 1777, with a well-apiiointed British army, strengthened by 
Geruian, Canadian, and Indian auxiliaries. This force was to meet another 
British army advancing from New York, s(nnewhere on the line of the Hudsou, 
and thus cut the rebellions colonies in two, to be subdued in detail. Burgoyue 
took Fort Ticouderoga, July G, and lost a large detachment of his best Geruiau 
troops, who were cut off by the Vernionters at Bennington, Aug. 16. On Sejtt. 
14 tlie British crossed the Hud.son and encain])ed at Saratoga, near the American 
army. Burgoyue made an attack the ne.xt day on the lines at BimhIs' Heights, 
which had been fortilied by Kosciuszko, but after a long and indecisive battle, was 
forced to snsitend his southward march. He fortitied his canip, and waited for Sir 
Henry Clinton's army to acliieve its northward march and rescue him. His sui>- 
]>lies and outposts were cut off daily, and, on October 7, he advanced for another 
battle. Morgan's Virginians attacked his right, the Sth, Dth, and 10th Mass. 
under Gen. Poor, were led against his left, while other trooi)s fell on his front. 
The British retreated, leaving their artillery, and the Americans stormed the 
f(nLi lied camj) after despenite fighting. Burgoyne fell back on his old eam]>s by 
Fish Creek, but Gen. Fellows, with a New England brigade and batteries, prevent- 
ed his crossing the river, while Gates with 12,000 Continental troo])s and New 
York militia faced him on the S. His provisions gave out, the caiup was inces- 
santly caimonaded by the American l)atteries, and Clinton's army had failed to 
comiect, so. on Oct. 1(3, the British army, consisting of 5,7S'l men, with 42 can- 
non, and all their stores, surrendered to Gen. Gates. They were held as capti\'es 
until the close of the war (over 5 yeai's), first at Cambridge, Mass., and afterward 
at Charlottesville, Va. 



The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad nms N. E. from Saratoga, by 
Gansevoort and Moreait to Fort Edward, on the Hudson (two hotels). 
This place was fortified in 1709, and in 1755 Fort Edward was built at the 
confluence of a broad creek with the river. The ramparts were 16 ft. high 
and 22 ft. thick, and were provided with 4 bastions and bordered by a 
broad wet ditch. It was a very important .station on the old nnlitary road 
to the N., and in 1777 was held by 5,500 Americans, who retii-ed before 
the advance of Burgoyne. About this time the beautiful Jane McRea was 



35 G Route 53. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

murdered by Indians, near the village, under circumstaTices which have 
caused her story to become one of the saddest in the New World histoiy. 

Passengers who wish to go to Lake Chanii)lain direct, continue on the train for 
20 M. farther, passing up the valley of Wood Creek to Whitehall. In going toward 
Whitehall the Fort Ann Mts. are seen on the 1., and the course of the Chaini>lain 
Canal is followed. Fort Ann Village is on the site of an old colonial fort, near 
which Putnam and 500 Rangers were defeated by the French jiartisan Molaiig, with 
a large French and Indian force. The Rangers suffered fearfully, and Putnam was 
captured. In 1777 the Americans attacked the 9th line regiment of the British 
army, in a ravine now traversed by the railroad (| M. N. of'tlie station), but after 
an obstinate engagement the assailants were forced to withdraw. ■Whitehall 
{Hall's Hotel) is a ]irosi)erous lumbering village, situated in a rugged ravine under 
Skene's Mt. It was settled by Col. Philip Skene in 17C5, and a large stone man- 
sion and military works were erected. It was captured by Herrick and the Green 
Mt. Boys in 1775, and in 1779 was confiscated by the State of New York, on ac- 
count of Skene's adhesion to the king, tlie British fleet here engaged the 
Americans flying from Tiecmdei'Oga, July 7, 1777, destroyed several galleys, and 
took 1:^8 cannon and a vast amount of sujiiilies. The name of "Whitehall " was 
adoi)ted in place o' Skenesborough, and in 1812 the jilace was well fortified. In 
1814 Maedonough's fleet, with tiie British squadron wliieh it had taken in the 
uaval battle at Plattsburg, came to this point, and here the "Saratoga," " Con- 
fiance," and other vessels sank at their nmorhigs. Whitehall is 24 M. from Fort 
Ticouderoga (by the lake). Whitehall to Rutland, see Route 28. 

Passengers for Lake George change cars at Fort Edward, and take a 
train whicli passes over a branch railroad to Gle7is Falls (6 M.), a flouiish- 
ing factory-village with about 8,000 inliabitants, which has but lately 
recovered from a fire which utterly destroyed it (in 1863). The Hudson 
here falls 50-60 ft. over a long and rugged ledge, while the State has 
built a great dam above, which feeds the Chaniplain Canal. Tlie island 
below the falls is associated with Cooper's "Last of the Mohicans." 
" Here, amid the roaring of this very cataract, if romance may be believed, 
the voice of Uncas, the last of the Mohicans, was heard and heeded ; here 
Hawk-Eye kei:)t his vigils ; here David breathed his nasal melody," &c. 

Trains run from Glens Falls to Caldwell, 9 M. N. About 5 M. beyond the vil- 
lage the road passes near Williams's Rock, a large boulder which marks the seene 
of "The Bloody Morning-Scout. " On Sept. 7, 1755, when the Freneli iirmy of 
Dieskau was marching down from Crown Point against the Anglo-colonial army 
under Gen. Johnson, Col. Ei)hraim Williams was sent out with 1,2(.() men to en- 
gage the P'rench van-guard. 200 of his men were Mohawk Indians, under the 
conunand of their noble white-haired chief, Ilendrick. The detachment ad- 
vanced into the very centre of the invading army (which was marching in a grea 
hall-moon curve), and was speedily enveloped and crushed by the enemy. A ter- 
rible massacre ensued (in a ravine still called the Bloody Defile), and Williauis 
(the founder of Williams College) and Hendriek fell, with most of their men. The 
bodies of the slain were thrown into Bloody Pond, a quiet iiool in aglen near Wil- 
liams's Rock. Dieskau then advanceil rapidly to attack the colonial camp at Lake 
George. Johnson had fortified his position, and the Indian and Cjniadian auxil- 
iaries in the attacking force were soon put to flight by the tire of the batteries, 
while the French regulars suffered heavily, and were finally re])ulsed with the loss 
of 700 killed and wounded. Dieskau was wounded and nuiile prisoner, while John- 
son, though wounded, was made a baronet of Great Britain, and received the 
thanks of Parliament. Fort William Henry was soon afterwards erei-ted, armed 
with 42 cannon, stored with vast sujiplies, and garrisoned l)y 2,500 men. In Au- 
gust, 1757, this fort was beleaguered by 10,000 FrenchiiH^u and Canadians, under 
the Marquis de Montcalm. After a siege of several days' duration, having received no 
aid from the colonial army at Fort Edward, the ibrt was surrendered. iVssoou as 



LAKE GEORGE. Route 53. 357 

the disarmed garrison marclied out, the Indian allies of Montcalm fell furionsly 
upon them, and a fearful massacre ensued. Hundi'eds of tlie defenceless colonials 
were put to death under the walls of the fort before the slan^diter could be stayed. 
Althouyh Montcalm retired to Fort Carillon (Ticonderoga) with his trojihies and 
ca]itured batteries, the site of Fort AVilliam Henry was never re-oc,cui)ied, a new 
work called Fort George, with a central citadel of stone, having been built 1 M. y. 
E. of the old fort. 

Caldwell is a dull village at the S. end of Lake George, whicli enjoys a 
slight local distinction from the fact of its being tlie s])ire-town of Warren 
County, There are two small imis liere, and the Lalvc House (accommo- 
dating 175 guests, at $ 3-3.50 a day). The * Fort William Henry Hotel 
is a vast and sumptuous house, on the site of tlie old fort, and amid finely 
arranged grounds. It accommodates 1,200 guests, and charges $5.00 a 
day for transient visitors. The splendid frontage of the hotel looks out 
over the lake, which is close at liand. Some renmants of the old fort may 
be found here, and Fort George (1 M. distant) is a picturesque ruin. 
Rattlesnake Cobble is an easily ascended hill near Caldwell, which com- 
mands a broad view down the lake. Prospect and French Mts. are also 
ascended from the village, and give varying views of the lake and its 
shores. 

Stages run from Caldwell to Lake Luzerne ; also to Warrensburg, 
Cliester, Schroon Lake, and the southern Adirondacks. 

Lake George 

was first visited by Father Jogues, a French Jesuit missionary, whose canoe en- 
tered its quiet waters on the eve of the festival of Corpus Christi, 1646. In honor 
of tliat sacred anniversary lie named these bright waters "Le Lac du St. Sacre- 
ment" (The Lake of the Holy yacraiuent), and then passed on to a heroic martyr- 
dom at the hands of the Mohawks, fullilling the prophecy which he had made 
when leaving Montreal, " Ibo, nee redibo." For a century the lake was known in 
the border clironicdes as the path of hostile iucursicins or of religious devotees 
passing to the land of the fierce Mohawks. Courcelles, Tracy, Scluiyler, Mcnteth, 
— French, Dutch, Indians, English, diversified the record. In 17-1:6 Sir William 
Johnson concluded a league with the northern Indians, on the shores of St. Sac- 
rement, and in 1755 he led an army to the lake, and named it Lake George, " not 
only in honor of his Majesty, but to ascertain his undoubted dominion." (This 
name is growing more and more out of favor year by year, and most people would 
jirefer either the French " St. Sacrement," or the Indian "Horicon," — meaning 
" Silvery Waters," — suggested by Cooper.) Johnson's force was soon menaced 
by 2,000 Frenchmen and Indians under the Baron Dieslcau, but "the Bloody 
Morning Scout" was followed by a total defeat of the invading force, in which the 
French regulars were nearly annihilated. Fort William Henry was built soon af- 
ter, and Rogers and Putnam, with their hardy Rangers, scouted over the lake to- 
ward the French fortress at Ticonderoga. In March, 1757, Rigaud destroyed 300 
English batteaux and several sloops near Fort William Heni-y, and in August the 
Marquis de Montcalm passed down the lake with 6,000 men in boats and 3,000 
men marching on the W. shore. After jncketing the southern roads, Montcalm 
opened a cannonade on the fort from batteries near the piresent site of the Lake 
House, and soon compelled its surrender. After the ensuing massacre of the dis- 
armed garrison, the fort was destroyed. But the most imposing spectacles which 
this, or any other American lake, has seen, occurred in 1758 and 1759. In the 
former year, Gen. Abercrombie advanced up the Inke with 16,000 men, in 900 
batteaux and 190 whale-boats, convoyed by gunboats, all brilliant with ricdi uni- 
forms and waving banners, while the nmsic of numerous regimental bands echoed 



358 Route 53. LAKE GEOr.GE. 

among the hills. (This pageant is finely desrrlberl hy Cooper, in "Satanstoe," 
C'liapLeis XXII. - XXV.) A tew days later the shuttered .-iiid defeated army i)a.ssed 
up the lake to Fort William Heniy, having left over 2,()((0 of their number dead 
and dying under the walls of Fort Carillon (Tieonderoga). In 1758 Gen. Amherst 
led 11,000 men in another graml martial procession down the lake, and this march 
ended in the Conipicst of Canada. In 1775 the abandoned Forts George and Gage 
(at Caldwell) were occupied by New York militia, and afterwards liy a detach- 
ment from Hinman's Conn. Reg., and by Col. Van yehaiek's N. Y. Reg. In the 
summer of 1777 Fort George was chosen as the army hosi^ital, on account of its 
salubrity, and 3,000 sick men were sent here. Hundreds died of the smnll-pox 
and typhus-fever, and among tliem was the Baron de Woedtke, a Prussian noble 
who jiad just accepted a general's commission. In 1777. alter the fall of Tieon- 
deroga, IA)rt George and the hike were abandoned by the Americans, but were re- 
occupied after Burgoyne's surrender. In October, 17S0, the garrison of Fort 
George was defeated and cut to pieces, near Bloody Pond, and the fort and the 
fleet on the lake were taken by tlie Britisli. Since that day, peace has dwelt on 
these tranquil water.s. 

Lake George, "the Como of America," is situated in Nortlieastern New 
York, near the Adirondack Mts., and is about 300 ft. above the sea. It 
is 36 M. long, and 1 - 4 M. wide, and its shores are generally sterile and 
fringed with lofty and alirupt hills. There are but three petty villages 
on the lake, and a highway passes through them on the W. shore, con- 
necting Caldwell ^vith Bolton, Hague, and Tieonderoga. The vicinity of 
frowning nits., the great number of islands, the transparency of the \vaters, 
and the bracing pnrity of the air of the highlands, unite to increase the 
claims of Lake George as a sunmier-resort, while its scenery has been lik- 
ened not only to that of Como, but also to Lake Windermere and Loch 
Katrine, 

The steamer " Minnehaha" leaves Caldwell every morning, and runs to 
the N. end of the lake, returning in the afternoon. The steamer " Ga- 
nouskie" makes daily trips between Cahhvell, Bolton, and 14-Mile Island. 

The steamer leaves its pier (at the great hotel) and crosses to Crosbj/side, 
on the E. sliore, with a large hotel situated in pleasant groves by the 
shore, and looking across to Caldwell. French Mt. towers to tlie E., and 
is covered with forests. Tea Island (so named from a tea-house, or arl)or, 
erected in 1828) is next passed, 1 M. from Caldwell, and then Diamond 
Island is approached, \h M. beyond. The name is derived from the beati- 
tiful quartz crystals wliicli are found here, and the place was inhabited 
in the early part of this century, — the mistress of the family being gen- 
erally known as "the Lady of the Lake." Diamond Island was fortified 
by Burgoyne in 1777, and was garrisoned by part of the 47th line regi- 
ment imder Capt. Aubrey. It was attacked by Col. John Brown, with 
the New England militia who had swept the outworks of Tieonderoga, 
but Aubrey repulsed the Americans with artillery, and then drove them 
away (" with great loss") by an attack with his gunboats. Bro\vii lost 
all his vessels and cannon, and many men. Dunliani's Bay and Mont- 
calm's Bay are passed on the E. , the latter being Iteyond Long Island, 
which is passed on the E. (with the Three Sisters islets on the W.). The 



LAKE GEORGE. Eoiitc 53. 350 

Trout Pavilion is a sequestered hotel above Montcalm's Bay, near the 
best fishing-grounds, and frequented by fishermen. The Fort Ann Mts. 
loom up darkly on the E. as the steamer crosses the lake, with the Three 
Brothers on the W., and Dome and Recluse Islands on the N. This is 
the broadest part of the lake, and affords views of rare beauty, with the 
gracefxil Dome Island (which resembles Ellen's Isle, in Loch Katrine) 
prominently seen. Recluse Island is a beautiful spot just W. of the 
Dome, with a cheerful summer-villa embowered among trees. This island 
has the remains of fortifications which were built by Abercrombie's army 
in 1758, while the views from its N. and E. shores are exquisitely beauti- 
ful. The steamer now rounds in at Bolton, a small village with a noble 
outlook over the broadest expanse of the lake. Tliere are two large and 
comfortable family hotels here, and in the environs of the village is the 
quaint old stone Church of St. Sacrament. Tlie terms at the Mohican 
House (directly on the shore) are low, and the accommodations are good. 
Prospect Mt. is back of the village, and commands a broad and delight- 
ful view, embracing the widest part of the lake, Montcalm's and 
Ganouskie (or Nortliwest) Bays, Recluse, Dome, and Green Ids. and the 
Narrows, and Tongue and Black Mts. in the N. and N. E. Ganouskie 
Bay extends for 6 M. to the N. above Bolton, being separated from the 
lal;e by the lofty promontory of Tuyigiie ML, where deer abound in the 
late fall and winter. As the boat leaves Bolton, Parodi (or Sloop) Island 
is passed on the 1. (so named because the singer, Signora Parodi, erected 
a cross here in 1851 ). On the N. are Green and Hog Islands, closing the 
entrance to Ganouskie Bay, while Tongue Mt. is on the W. and Black 
Mt. on the E., as the steamer crosses toward the lofty palisades called 
Shelving Rock, with the innumerable islands of the Narrows on the 1. 
1//-Mile Island is just W. of Shelving Rock, and has a neat hotel, which 
is much visited by city gentlemen for the sake of the fishing in the vicinity, 
Tlie Shelving Rock Fall is about 1 M. S. of the hotel (on the mainland), 
and is a small and graceful cascade. The island is 14 M. from Caldwell, 
and the little hotel charges .$2-2.50 a day for board ($10-14.00 a 
week). The steamer now enters the Narrows, where the lake is contracted 
between high mts., and a fleet of small islands is anchored in the channel. 
These islets were the scene of numerous combats in the colonial days, but 
are now deserted, save for the visits of sportsmen, who find large trout in 
their cool shadows. Steaming do^v^^ between Tongue Mt. and Black Mt. 
(2,878 ft. higli ; sometimes ascended with guides, for the sake of its view) 
the " Minnehaha" passes the Hen and Chickens, Hatchet, Half- Way, and 
Floating Battery Islands, with the N. peaks of Black Mt., called variously, 
Elephant's Ridge or Sugar Loaf. Ju.st N. of the Floating Battery group 
is Vicar's Island, with the palisades of Buck Mt. on the W., and tlie 
handet of Dresden seen down Bosom Bay, on the E. Sabbath Day Point 



3 GO RmiefjS. LAKE GEORGE. 

is soon approached (on the W. ), — a lonp:, low promontory running out 
from I'ich meadows and still retaining the air of peace and restfulness 
wliich won it the name it bears. 

In 1757 a sharp skirmish occurred at Harbor Island, off this Point, and in Jnly 
of that year the 1st New Jersey regiment was sent on a scout down the lake. De 
Carbiereand 400 Frenchmen and Indians ambushed the Jersey Bhies in the arclii- 
pelago off the Point, and defeated them with great shuvjliter. 131 of tlie 
Americans were killed, 12 escaped, and 180 were made prisoners, many of whom 
were put to death with horrible tortures. On the evening of July 5, 1758, the van- 
guard and centre of Abcrcrombie's grand army (light infaniry and regulars) 
rested on Sabbath Day Point from sunset until near midnight, waiting for tlie 
three lirigades of Provincials and the artillery to eome nji. In 1777 a sharp con- 
flict took place here between American militia and Tories, and during the present 
centiu-y peace has settled along these shores, although the connnunijlace farm- 
houses' on the Point have marred the natural beauty of the place. 

The vast hulk of Black Mt. is pronunent in the S. E., as the "Minne- 
haha " runs N. to the village of Ha<ine, situated on a widening of the 
lake, where it is 4 M. across. Garfield's is a favorite hotel at Hague, and 
from this point parties go to the lakes (abounding in fish), of Pharaoh (12 
M. N. W ), Brant, and Schroon. As the steamer gains the niiihlle of llie 
lake again, the prospect of the pass between Rogers' Slide and Anthony's 
Nose, and the retrospect of the Narrows and its island tlotilla allord 
delightful views. Friends' Point and Islands are passed on the W., and 
then Anthony'' s Nose (on the N. E. ) pushes out its rocky ledges over Lhe 
deepest water in the lake (400 ft.). Rogers' Slide is on the W. shore, 
and the new Rogers'-Rock House is at its base. 

There is a legend to the effect that Major Roliert Rogers (the chief of the 
Rrnigcrs, and afterwards a dangerous Tory officer) was chased to the verge of tliis 
cliff by Indians (in the winter of 1758). Suddenly reversing lii.s snow-shoes, and 
tlirowinghis liaversack down on the ice-bound lake, he retraced his tracks, and 
got away down an adjacent ravine before his pursuers arrived. The Indians fol- 
lowed the tracks leading to the precipice, and saw none leading away, whence 
they eonclnde<l tluit he had cast hnuself over: and when, a 'ew minutes later, 
they saw him skimming away over the ice toAvard Fort William Henry, they at- 
tributed his escape to the protection of the Great Spirit. 

Passing now by Prisoners' Island (where the French kept their captives), 
with Lord Howe's Point on the 1., the " jMinnehaha " soon reaches the end 
of the lake. The terminus is at Baldwin Station, where passengers for 
Lake Cham plain take the cars on a branch railroad which sweeps around 
Mt. Dehance, and meets the main line of the Champlain Division R. R. 
5 M. distant. At the junction connections are made for Fort Ticonderoga 
Of Whitehall. To the 1. is the prosperous manufacturing village of Ticon- 
deroga (two inns), near the falls on the outlet of Lake George (which de- 
scends 210 ft. within about 4 M.). 

The Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R. runs from Whitehall to 
Fort Ticonderoga, Crown Point, Port Henry, Westport, Port Kent, Platts- 
burg, and Rouse's Point (113 M.), giving grand panoramic views of Lake 
Chani])lain and the Grt-en and .Xdirondack Mts., and affording easy access 
to lhe awLicnt fortrcsj-cs and l!ic .Vdirondack region. 



LAKE CIIAx^IPLAIN. 

Lake Champlaiii 

was called by the Iroquois Indians Caniadei'i Gnarnnti ("Tho Gate of the 
Country "), while tlie Alicuaciuis called it Fetoubouque (" The Waters that lie be- 
twecMi " ; i. e. between tlieir laud and tliat of the Iruqui)is) ; and other Indians 
called it Haranac. For nearly half a century it was called Corlear's Lake by the 
English and Dutch, in memory of a Dutch .gentleman who was drowned there. In 
tlie summer of 1009 a small exploring party set out from Quebec under Samuel 
de (Jhamplain,i tlie Governor of Canada, and ascended the St. Lawrence and 
Richelieu Rivers to the Chaiubly Rapids, where tliey met a war-party of Ilurotis. 
All the Frenchmen save Champlain and two others were sent back to Quebec, 
and those three joined the war-i)arty. July 4, IGO'.), they entered the lake, and 
on the following day they defeated 200 Iroquois at Crown Point, ChamjiJain 
having shot their chief with his arquebus. Tlie Hurons returned in triumph, 
with 60 scalps, and the valiant Frenchman, having found tlie road to the lake, 
Avas left to make several subsequent ex])lorations and camjiaigns thereon. A 
scries of war-parties traversed this route for nearly two centuries, antl the lake 
became tlie scene of long campaigns and ilesperate battles. In I'oDO, '200 French 
regul.irs and a swarm of Indians passed up in canoes, and marched to Schenec- 
tady, which tliey destroyed with 60 of its i)eople, returning with 27 prisoners, and 
40 horses laden with plunder. Shortly afterward Col. Schuyler and 200 Moliawks 
pas.scd the lake and the Richelieu River, and destroyed the Canadian town of 
Soi-el. In 161>5 the cliivalrous Count de Frontenac (a relative of jMadame de 
Mai ntenon) launched a fleet of small craft, and passed down to Whitcliall with 
700 Frenchmen and Algonquins. After a daring foray througli tlie Mohawk Valley 
and nearly to the forts at x\lbany, he retired safely by Whiteliall, jjursued by 
Schuyler and the Hudson V'alley people. The lake was held by the French and 
coniiiiaiided by their fortilicatious until 1759, when Lord Amherst built a flotilla 
in South Ray, with a flag ship mounting IS guns, in which Capt. Loring swept 
and won this inland sea. The military and naval operatious around the lake will 
be considered in connection with the points of action. 

Lake Champlain is a large and picturesque sheet of water, running 
nearly N. and S. for 126 M., with a breadth of from 1 furlong to 15 
M, Its waters are clear, and abound in bass, pickerel, salmon-trout, and 
other fish, -wdiile the deptli varies from 9 to 47 fathoms. There are many 
Lslands in the lake, the largest of which covers an area of 18,600 acres, 
and has a population of 1,300. Besides numerous pleasant villages and 
towns, there is one city on the lake, and the fleets used in commerce here 
number many thousands of tons. There is a large trade done between the 
rivers, the Hudson being joined to the lake by a canal 04 M. long (to 
Watervliet), while the Richelieu River affords an outlet to the St. 
Lawrence. The scenery of the Vermont shore is that of a qtiiet pastoral 
region, with the Green Mts. rising in the distant E. The New York shore 
presents a continual succession of barren and mountainous scenery, with 
occasional foot-hills of the Adirondacks pushed out in promontories, and 
tlie parent peaks looming blue in the distance. 

The steamboats on Lake Champlain are large and eommodions, with state- 
rooms, dining-salo'iiLs, etc. They formerly ran between Whitehall and Rouse's 

1 Champlain was born of a gnotl family of the province of Snintonae, in ^^>'n. He became 
a nuval officer, and afterward was attached to t!ie person of Kiiip llcnri 1\'. In Ki')? he ex- 
plored the St Lawrence Hive'- n|) to the St. l^onis Rapids, and afterward (until his death in 
I(i';.5) he explored the country fnini NMntinket to the liead-waters of the Ottawa. Hi' w is a 
brave, nr>Mcifnl, and zealons eliicf, and held that " the .salvation of one s<iul is of more im- 
port nice than the tonnilinfx of a new empire." He cstablisJied strong missious among the 
iiuruiia, fought the Irofiuois, and Ibuuded Quebec. 

lt> 



3G2 Route 53. FOr.T TICOXDERCGA. 

Point, but now confine their voyages between Fort Ticonderoga and riatlsbnrgh, 
toucliing at Port Henry, Burlington, and other harbors. Tiiey nial.e connecticiia 
at Fort Tieonderoga witii the laiiroad. Thi'. Chumyilain lUruiuii Uuihvdil nnis 
from Wlnteliall to Fort Ticonderoga (22 ^\.), Port Henry (iO M.), Port Kent (.77 
M.), Phittsburgh ('JO M.), and Rouse's Point (122 M.). 

From Whitehall to Fort Ticonderoga (24 M.), and even to Crown Point, 
the lake is veiy narrow, and seems more like a tine river. During the 
first part of *;he journey the hills of Dresden are seen boldly looming on 
the W, and Black Mt. is seen beyond, while the "Drowned Lands" lie 
along the shore. Beyond Mt. Defiance the train crosses the outlet of 
Lake George, and reaches 

Fort Ticonderoga 

(Fort Ticonderoga Hotel, $2.00 a day, an old mansion house near the 
lake and landing). There is a railway-station about 1 M. N. of the fort, 
pertaining to a branch of the Vermont Central Railroad, which diverges 
from the main line at Leicester Junction. The new route from New York 
to Montreal (W. of L. Cham plain) all of which is now in working order, 
passes near the fort on the W. Steamers going each way stop here twice 
daily, and the Lake George stages leave early each afternoon. The ruins 
of the fort cro^vn the high hill near the steamboat pier, and are quite 
picturesque, and command extensive lake-views. The sally-port where 
the Green Mt. Boys entered, the old well, the crum])ling walls of tlie 
barracks surrounding the parade, and the well-defined dry ditches beyond 
the ramparts may easily be recognized. In one of the E. bastions is a 
deep and cavernous vault which it is surmised was the garrison bakery. 
On the high point S. E. of the fort is the wcll-]>reserved Grenadiers' Bat- 
tery, erected to command the landing-place and to defend the long bridge 
to Mt. Indej)endence. Tliere is another small battery surrounded by a 
wet ditch, on the plain to the N., while the forests to the S. and W, are 
furrowed with intrenchments and lines of parallels, redoubts, and ritie- 
pits. From the ramparts of the fort Mt. Independence is seen to the S. 
E., across the lake, and Mt. Defiance to the S. W., across the widenings 
of the outlet of Lake George. The latter sunmiit is 800 ft. above the 
lake, and commands a noble view over its placid waters. It is best 
ascended by following the nearly obliterated military road of Burgoyne 
from Ticonderoga village (3 M. from the fort to the sunmiit). Others, 
who are fond of the fine rowing which is obtained here, cross the bay in 
a boat, and scramble up through the forest to the summit. A road runs 
W. from Ticonderoga to Paradox and Schroon Lakes. 

Ticonderoga is a modification of Cheonderogo, the ohl Iro(inois name for this 
locality. It meant "sounding waters," and ai'plied especially to the lalls on the 



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FORT TICONDEROGA. Route 53. 3G3 

outlet of Lake George. Capt. Glen is spoken of as holding this point witli a 
putket of ;33 men, ni KjOO, and in IGOl it was fortified by Col. Schuyler who wis 
tlien leading a force against La Prairie. In 1755 the Manjuis de Montcalm occu- 
pied the i.lace with a strong French army, and built extensive works which he 
named Fort Carillon i ("chime of bells"), in allusion to the musical cascades 
in the vicuiity. Gen. Abercrombie, having descended Lake George with 7 000 
JJritish regulars and 9,000 provincial troops, attempted to storm the fort Jul\- S 
17;)S. The scouts told Abercrombie that the fort was weak, and he knew that 
rcinf(n-cements Avere hurrying to the garrison, so an assault was ordered lu ad- 
vancing through the forest a detachment of 450 Frenchmen boldly eno-a-'ed and 
checked the van-guard. Israel Putnam and Lord Howe hastened up to the scene 
of the skirmish, and Howe was almost instantly killed. "His manners and his 
virtues made him the idol of the army," and "in him the soul of the army seemed 
to expire. ' Massachusetts erected a monument to this gallant nobleman in 
Westminster Abbey. The French detachment was exterminated, but the Aii'do- 
American troops became entangled in the forest and began to fire on each other 
until they were withdrawn. 6,000 picked men were led out to storm tlie French 
works, which consisted of a breastwork (8 ft. high) and abatis, defended by 4 ;0 
men with artillery Four hours of fearless charging and bloody repulses ensued, 
and the lew men who gamed the parapet died there on tlie verge of victory \t 7 
in the evening, after three heroic assaults had failed, and several boats had been 
sunk on the lake with all on board by the artillery of the fort the army re- 
treated,^ leaving nearly 2,000 men dead and wounded on the field Lord John 
Murray s Highland regiment (so distinguished at Fontenoy, 13 years before) lost \ 
of Its men and 25 officers. In March, 1758, Rogers' Rangers were disastrously 
repulsed from the outworks of Carillon. In the summer of 1759 Lord Amher.st 
advanced Irom the S. with 11,000 men, and the French garrisr)n weakened by the 
necessity of meeting Wolfe before Quebec, evacuated the place 'after burnin- the 
bai-racks and exploding the magazine. ^ 

At dawn May 10, 1775, the fort was surprised and taken by 85 New En^dand 
men, who had crossed the lake on the previous evening. Tliey were commanded 
by Lthan Allen and Benedict Arnold, who led them through the gate and out on 
the parade where (it is said) Allen aroused Capt. de la Place, the commandant 
and dcnianded the surrender of the fort "in the name of the Great Jehovah and 
tlie Continental Congress." 43 soldiers were surrendered with the fort to^^ether 
with 176 cannon and vast supplies of ammunition. When Burgoyne advanced 
in the su-nmer of 1777, and Arnold's fleet had been defeated on the lake, the de- 
frnof J ona Ticonderoga was intrusted to Gen. St. Clair, with 2,600 Continental 
troops, 900 nuhtia. and 47 fortress-cannon. He destroyed the works toward Lake 
George, and strongly fortified Mt. Independence (remnants of the star-fort and 
graves ol huuch-eds who dieil of cam]i-disteinper are now found in the young forest 
on the int.) 'The bridge to Mt. Independence was a i)owcrful floating stmetnre 
sui.ported by 22 sunken piers and many floats. Burgoyne's fleet was cannonaded 
and forced to keep out ot gun-shot, but the British succeeded in getting cannon 
up on Mt pehance, with which a plunging fire was opened on the fort. On the 
nignt ot July (), St Clair evacuated the position, and would have esca])ed but that 
Uen de rermoy set fire to his quarters on Mt. Independence. The aroused enemy 
made rapid pursuit, defeated St. Clair's rear-guard at Hubbnnlton, and took his 
artillery and stores at Whitehall, with 200 galleys and the remnant of Arnold's 
lleet. len weeks later, Col. Brown, of Mass., with 1,000 men of New England 
captured the outworks of Ticonderoga. with 200 batteaux, 298 prisoners 5 cannon' 
and a war-vessel, and delivered 100 American prisoners and a Continental fla^.' 
The lort was dismantled a few weeks later, and in 1780 was re-occupied by Gen 
Haldimand witli troops from Montreal. Since the Revolution, Ticondero<Va has 
not Oeen occuined, and for many years it sufl-ered a gradual demolition, — it"s well- 
cut stone and brick being carried away by vessel-loads to the rising villages on 
t le iaKe._ It is now .sealed from such invasions, and is becoming known as one of 
the .lassie and heroic grounds of Amenca. July 18, 1872, the Vermont Historical 
&0(,iety had a field-day here, and there were 10,000 people present. The fort is on 
a l.en.nsula rning I'^c ft. from the lake, with water on three sides and swampy 
land on the fourth. The peninsula covers over 500 acres. 

Qie'bec.^™^^" ^^ CariUof "wan old Canadian song, wliich may still be heard in Lower 



364 Route 53. CROWN POINT. 

The steamer passes through the railway -hriiTge soon after leaving Fori 
Ticonderoga. Beautiful views are occasionally gained of Camel's Ilunif 
and Mt. Mansfield on the E., and the majestic Adirondacks on the N. W. 
The boat stops at Larrahee's Point in the Vermont town of Shoreham, 
and then at Crown Point (Gunnison's Hotel), 3 M. E. of Crown Point vil- 
lao-e whence a road runs W. to Paradox and Schroon Lakes and the Adi- 
rondacks. A short distance beyond this landing, the steamer passes 
through the naiTOws between Chimney Point (on the E.) and 

Crown Point. 

The niins of the fortress of Crown Point occupy the high promontory be- 
tween the lake and the broad Bulwagga Bay. The point is reached either 
by boat from Port Henry, or by carriage around the bottom of the bay 
(6-7 M.). There is a lighthoiise on the point, but otherwise it is aban- 
doned to its ancient remains of strength and pride. The immense ram- 
parts and ditches of the fort, its broad parade, and the thick stone Avails 
of tlie barracks are richly worthy of attention, while from the walls of the 
nortliern l)astions are ol)tained superb views of the Green Mts. in the E. 
and the rugged foot-hills of the Adirondacks in the W., with the lake 
stretching away for many leagues in the N. The peninsula is about 1 M. 
wide, and has only a thin robe of earth over limestone ledges, whose cut- 
ting away cost enormously during the erection of the fortress. 200 yards 
N, E. of the great fort, and near tl;e water, are the ruins of the old French 
work. Fort Frederick. In the N. E. bastion is a well cut in the rock, 8 
ft. in' diameter and 90 ft. in depth, which was cleared out by a stock com- 
pany in 1324, in the hope of finding treasure. There have been many ex- 
cavations here with this object, but only old iron and lead has yet been 
found. The ramparts are brilliant with blood-red thorn-apples (in their 
season) on great thickets of bushes. These peculiar trees are found no- 
where else in the State, and are said to have been brought from France. 

In July, 1G09, Chaiuplain, 2 Frenchmen, and 60 Ilurons came up to this Toiut 
in -24 bark canoes, and here they Liiided and .lefeated tlic Iroquois, after passing 
the ni^dit in martial rites and singing the war-song This was 2 nion hs bofo e 
Hendriclv Hudson liad discovered the noble river which lias been n<i ned in lii» 
lionor. In 1G:31 tlie French occu])ied Point a la Chex-elure (opposite this place), 
built a stone fort and armed it with 5 cannon, and established a farming eoiii- 
munity In 1G66 De Courcelles ascended by boats (with COO men) to trow n Point, 
whence he marched into the Mohawk country, and on the retreat, some tune al- 
ter, the force halted here several days for their stragglers to come up. le de- 
stroyers of Schenectady were pursued to Crown Point (in the ^^''"^'^l- « J^ :/^,'^ 
here they put on skates an.l escaped. In IT;!! Fort FredeiMck .^^'^^^ \^ 'JVi^^Xm 
the French, and named in honor of Frederi<-k Maurepas, Premier of thej^mgdom. 
The shores were then more thickly settled than now, for many miles Is. ami h 
In 17.^10 after tlie fall of Ticonderoga, the fort was abandoned, and, the i ouit ou n„ 
o.'cupied by Lord Amherst, vast fortifications were ererted here, which <^"ost the 
British government .S 10,000,000. In 177:3 the Ivirraeks took tin; and the I'ow cle - 
m.aua/.ine blew up, i.artly demolishing the works, and m 17/.. W.-.rn.'rs (.iwn 3 t 
Boys captured the fort. 7.000 Auiericaii.s retreated lieic liom Canada m InO. ana 



BURLINGTON. Route 53. 365 

liunclreds died from small-pox. In 1777 Burgoyne m.ade the fort his main depot 
of sui>plies ill the iidvaiire on Albany. The fort built by Ijord Amherst was 5 M. 
around, and its ramparts were 25 ft. high and '20 ft. thick. It is stdl in good jirescr- 
vation. 

Just beyond Crown Point the steamer stops at Port Henry (two inns), 
a picturesquely situated village, with iron works and mines. Bulwagga 
Bay is seen opening to the S. After leaving Port Henry, a fine view is 
obtained of the Adirondacks in the W., Bald and Dix Peaks and the 
Giant of the Valley being foi^eniost in the group. The steamer next 
touches at Westport (two inns), on the W. shore, with a road running W. 
into the Adirondacks, by Elizabethtown to White Face Mt. On the E, 
shore are seen the spires of the city of Vergennes, and the ruins of Fort 
Cassin, where Lieut. Cassin, of the U. S. Navy, repelled an attack on 
Macdonough's fleet, which was being fitted out at Vergennes. Split 
Rock Mt. frowns along the W. shore, and is mirrored in waters of un- 
known de]»th. Rounding the lighthouse at the head of the promontory, 
tlie steamer touches at Essex {Royce's Motel), whence another road leads 
into the Adirondacks. The course from Essex is N. E., passing the Four 
Brothers and Juniper Isles, and approaching and stopping at 

Burlington 

{*Van Ness House, .^ 2-3.50 a day), "the Queen City of Vermont," 
beautifully situated on a long, sloping hill on the E. shore of Burlington 
Bay. It is the largest city in the State, having a population of about 
12,00U, with 8 churches, 5 banks, 1 daily and 2 weekly newspapers. In 
1798 Burlington had 815 inhabitants, and between 1860 and 1870 it gained 
105 per cent in population. It became a city iu 1865, and is now the 
third lumber-mart iu America. 3Iost of the lumber is brought from the 
Canadian forests, and sorted and planed here, after which it is sent by 
rail to Boston and other Eastern cities. Immense quantities are loaded 
directly from the cars to the vessels (in Boston) which convey them to 
distant ports. 100,000,000 ft. of Canadian lumber are imported yearly, 
and the lumber-yard, 2 M. long, is always covered with immense piles of 
plank and boards. Several of the churches are fine buildings, especially 
the Cathedral, a large und picturesquely irregular structure. St. Paul's 
Episcopal Church is an old Gothic building of blue limestone, with stained 
windows. This is the church of the Bishop, whose diocese (the State of 
Vt.) has 27 priests and 2,655 communicants. There are also handsome 
Congregational and Methodist churches, built of Burlington stone. Near 
the square in the centre of the city is a fine U. S. building (Post Office 
and Custom House), and the elegant Court House of Chittenden County. 

The Uiilvtri-itti of Vermont occupies an eligible situation on the sum- 
mit of Burlingion Hill, 1 M. from the Bay and 1)67 ft. above it. This in- 



3G6 RmdeSS. BURLINGTON. 

stitiition was incorporated in 1791, and began operations in 1800, the 
I*resident being the only instructor for the first 6 years, when about 30 
students were entered liere. Its connection with the State is but nominal, 
and has brought it no emohunent since its foundation, when Vermont 
endowed it with a grant of 29,000 acres of land. In 1813 the building 
was taken by the United States, and retained throughout the war for an 
arsenal and barracks. In 1824 the buildings Avere burnt, and rebuilt in 
1825, the corner-stone being laid by Gen. Lafayette, an heroic bronze 
statue of whom (by J. Q. A. Ward) now adorns the Universit}' Park. In 
1882-83, the old building was torn down and a new and stately edifice 
erected on its site. The academic department of the University has 11 
instructors, 100 students, 32,000 volumes in its library, and 80,000 speci- 
mens in its museum. There are about 1,000 alumni. The medical de- 
partment has 20 instructors and 200 students. From the University tower 
a superb * view is enjoyed. 

On the W., Lake Champlain is seen from below Crown Point on the S. to Platts- 
burg on the N., with numerous islands surrounded by the bright waters wliich 
have become classic in American history. Beyond the lake the Adirondacks till 
the horizon, over GO peaks being visible on a clear day ; prominent among which 
are Mclntyre, Whiteface, and Marcy, the latter being the highest yjeak betwet'n 
the "White and the Alleghany Mts. Lake Champlain is 10 M. wide here, and near 
the middle are seen the islets called the Four Brothers. The plains of Chittenden 
Co. are seen in the N. E. over the little village of Winooski, and in the E. are the 
stately Green Mts., the FerLv ilforete for which the State was named. Mt. Mans- 
field, Camel's Humj), and other well-known peaks are plainly visible, with a vast 
expanse of farm-land filling the foreground. Burlington City is overlooked on 
the W., stretching down to the shores of its bay. The * sunset over the lake and 
the Adirondacks when seen from this point, or from the little park N. W. of the 
central square, is full of beautj'. " Si>lendor o landscape is the peculiar boast of 
Burlington," said Pres. Dwight in 1793 ; and Fredrika Bremer speaks of the dis- 
tant "mountain forms picturesquely combined with a certain degree of grandeur 
and boldness." The view looking W. towards a jieak which she calls " U lion 
couchdiU," slie i)ronounced superior to any lake view which she had ever seen, ex- 
cepting only one ou Lake Geneva. 

Near the University is the Green Mt. Cemetery, in which Ethan Allen 
is biiried, under a Tuscan column 42 ft. high, and a short distance be- 
yond is the village of Winooski, at the lower falls on the Winooski River. 
Near this village is a romantic caiion on the river, at the High Bridge, 
where the impetiious stream has cut a gorge through the solid rock 90 ft. 
deep and 70 ft. wide. A noble statue of Allen crowns his monument. 

Burlington has the spacious Howard Opera-Honse, water-works, 7 fire- 
companies, the Fletcher Free Library (18,000 volumes), the home of Sena- 
tor Edmunds (and those of several wealthy New-Yorkers), and an admiraV.le 
Philharmonic Society. The Vermont Episcopal Institute (a sc'-.ool for 
boys) is on Rock Point, 2-3 M from the city. It has a fine marble build- 
ing in the collegiate Gothic architecture, with a small but elegant chapel, 
a massive tower, and a library which is rich in patristic literature. 1 M. 
S. of the city is the Hume for Destitute Children, and 1 M. N. is St. .lo- 



PLATTSBURG. Route 53. 367 

seph's (R. C.) Orphan Asylum; the first accommodating 100, and the second 
500, little cues. 

Burlington was settled about 1775, and named in honor of the Burlin<; fjimily 
(of New York), who were among the grantees. It laj^ on the route by the Winoo- 
ski Valley, which had been so often traversed by the northern Indians in their 
attaclcs on Mass. It was fortified and garrisoned by 4,000 troops in the War of 
1812, and in the War of 1801-5 sent many soldiers to the national armies. 

Stages leave Burlington daily for the rural towns of St. George and Hinesburg. 

Two trains daily leave Buriington for Montreal. From Buiiingttui to Essex 
Junction it is 8 M. Essex to Montreal, see page 201. Distance, 103 M., in 5^-6 
hours. 

Leaving Bnrlington, the steamer runs N. W. across the lake to Port 
Kent (2 hotels), a small village under Mt. TremLleau, and important for 
its exportation of iron. The old Watson Mansion is seen on a hill over 
the village. Stages run from Port Kent to tlie Ausable Chasm, with its 
grand succession of cascades and gorges. The Adirondack and Ausable 
Houses are at Keeseville, near the Chasm. Stages also run to Baker's 
Saranac Lake House (46 M. W.), while a road diverging to the S. W. at 
the Ausable Forks enters the mts. through Wilmington Notch and by- 
White Face and Lake Placid. 6 - 8 M. N. of Port Kent the steamer 
passes between Valcour Island and the mainland. In this channel Ar- 
nold's fleet, consisting of 15 vessels with 70 cannon, was attacked by a 
British squadron of 31 vessels. After a hot day's battle, in which 2 of 
Arnold's and 3 British vessels were sunk, the Americans tried to retreat 
by night, but were closely pursued. The flagship " Congress " was sur- 
rounded by hostile ships, but fought desperately for 4 hours, until the 
van and centre of the fleet had escaped. Then Arnold ran her and the 
attendant galleys ashore below Port Kent, and blew them up (Oct. 11, 
1776). Grand Isle, or Soutli Hero, is now passed on the E., and the vil- 
lage of Plattsburg {Fouqiiet's Hotel ; Cumberland House) is reached. It 
is a flourishing place at the moutli of the Saranac River, and is the shire- 
town of Clinton County (N. Y. ), and a garrisoned post of the U. S. Army. 
There is a railway from Plattsburg to Montreal (63^ M. ; trains in 4J - 5 
hrs.) ; also to the Ausable River (20 M. ; trains in 1|- 2 hrs.). The lat- 
ter road, with the stages which connect at the Ausable River, forms the 
best route to the Saranac and St. Regis Lakes, and the lofty central group 
of the Adirondack Mts. Tlie Long, Raquette, Fulton, and Tupper Lakes 
are most easily reached by the Adirondack Railroad (fi-om Saratoga). 

Sept. 7, 1814, Plattsburg was menaced by a British army of 14,000 men under 
Sir George Prevost, supjiorted by a fleet of 16 vessels, with 95 guns and 1,000 men. 
The defence was conducted by Gen. Macomb, with 3,000 men in the village, and 
Commodore Macdommgh, with a fleet of 14 vessels, 86 guns, and 880 men. When 
the British fleet rounded Cumberland Head for the attack, Macdonough was kneel- 
ing on his deck i)raying. A rooster, who had got loose iji tlie hurry of prepara- 
tion, flew ui)on one of tlie "Saratoga's" guns and crowed lustily, upon which the 
men gave three cheers and went to work with a will. As the fleets met, tjie two 
flagshii)3 engaged each other, ;uid the American " Saratoga " was sadly cut up by 



3G8 Route 51 MONTREAL. 

iW more poworfnl British vessel, the " Coiifianoe." By a skilFul manoeuvre Mac- 
d^no ^^h rvvniK^ii s s di^ar^^^ presente.l the uninjure.l side ai.-l battery to 

£en?mrw o was uiahle to imitate this action, and was speedily forced to 

eld Se^ 2^ hours of incessant cannonade, the ba tie --£•'; ^t,ff,;fp\!;! 
liritish who lost all their vessels save a few row-galleys. In ^J'e 'neau t me rie 
vost was repulsed by the soldiers at Plattsburg, and lost heavily, besides bemg 
forced to abandon much of his artillery and stores. 

The steamboat line terminates at Plattsburg. Another line plies between 
Phittsburg and Maciuam Bay {Hotel Champlain, $8-lJ a week), 8 M. N. 
(,f St. Albans, and the W. terminus of the St. Johnsbury and Lake-Cham- 
plain K. R., for the White Mts. and Portland. Trains for Montreal may 
be taken at Plattsburg. The more direct route from Albany to Montreal 
is by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R. on the W. shore of 
Lake Champlain, from Whitehall to Ticonderoga, Plattsburg, and Rouse's 
Point (Albany to Montreal, 9 hrs.). 



64. Montreal. 

TTofpU -*The Windsor is a new and sumptuous hotel on Dominion ^q"^™; 
St lattnce Hah, ou St James St. ; Hotel llichelieu. S2-3 a day ; Albiou Hotel, 

;i^2^)0 a day oarria^e for 1-2 persons, 25c. a course (withui the 

Ciirriages. <Jne-lior.se carna_,e, loi i ^ j ^ nn hour. Two-horse car- 
citv), 50C. an hour ; for 3-4 persons, 40c. ^^ .^' . ' J; g'lV^erLns, 50c. a course. 
riT'cs ibr 1 -2 persons, 40c. a course, 75c. an hour, toi J 4peisuii&, ^ 

*''ips!;""The most attractive are o„ Great Saj„t J«">'^» »"'' ^„t^uUris 'at 

^*'"''^'- +1,^ »;h7 r.n rrnisr Bleurv and St. Catharine Sts. ; also 

Horse-cars run across th«3 city on Liaig Biemj, an i ^ i^^ St. 

s' ri,„aV",sfo.»"^.r. I bKriS'if ^is;e.-;;;;,^to'au t,. .. Law. 

rence and Lake ports. 



by a small colony 01 v rencnmen ^v u^.v e'^^"^^;;' " , •;Hotel Dieu) and a colle-e 
the Isle of Mount Royal, and f"»-»'«'^ ^^ « ^"^^'f ^^^^^ in the 



simneuv( 

when high mass was concumea, ^!1«. /'';;;:;;;'{;;""\,^,e;si;;,i7,vv the land. You are 



MONTREAL. Route 54. 3G9 

the western suburbs, and killed 200 of tlio inhabitants, and a short, time after Col. 
Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troopti lioiii New York, leaving only the ciia- 
del, which his utmost eflorts could not reduce. In 1760 Lord xVnUierst and 17,000 
men captured tlie city, wliich then had 4,000 inhabitants, and was surrounded by 
a wall witli 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 Ethan Allen attacked Montreal 
with a iiandiul of Vermonters, and was defeated and captured, with 100 of his 
men. Gen. Preseott sent them to England as " banditti," and Allen was impris- 
oiu'd in Pendennis Castle. In the fall of 1775 the city was talcen bytlie American 
army under Gen. Montgomery. With the close of the War of 1S15, a brisk com- 
merce set in, and the city grew rapidlj', having, in 1821, 18,707 inhabitants. The 
completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benehted this place, and its in- 
crease has for many years been steady, substantial, and rapid. 

Montreal (142,000 iiiliabitants), the metropolis of the Dominion of 
Canada, and " the Queen of tlie St. Lawrence," is one of the most beauti- 
ful cities on the continent. It is situated on an islan<l (at the confluence 
of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and 
wlncli, from its fertility, has been called tlie garden of Canada. The St. 
Lawrence is l.j M. wide opposite the city, and the whole 7'iver-front is 
lined with lofty and massive walls, quaj^s, and terraces of gray limestone, 
unequalled elsewhere in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St, 
Petersburg. The commercial buildhigs in the city are generally of stone 
hi plain and suljstantial architecture, while the number of fine public 
buildings is very large. | of the population are Catholics, most of whom 
are French, while the bright siiburban villages are almost entirely in- 
habited by Frenchmen. Although Montreal is 800 M. from the sea, it is 
the port which receives the greater part of the importations to Canada, 
while its nianufacturing interests are of great extent and importance. 

The Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill 
and St. James Sts., in which a statue of tlie Queen has been placed. The 
new and elegant Gothic building of the Y. M. C. A. (the oldest associa- 
tion in America) fronts on this square, and is supplied with comfortable 
reading-rooms, parlors, etc. Going eastward on Great St. James 
St., some fine banks, insurance and commercial buildings are passed, 
and opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Mon- 
treal (beyond St. Frangois Xavier St., the Wall St. of Montreal) the 
Place d'Armes is seen. Here is the lofty front of the Church of 
Notre Dame, the largest church on the continent, with seats for 8,000 
I>e;-sons on the floor, and 2,000 in the galleries. It is 255J ft. long and 
14-1.^ ft. Avide, and has a chancel window of stained glass, 64:X.32 ft. in 
size. The interior is not striking, and the pictures are poor. There are 
two towers on the front, each 220 ft. high, and, like the church, in the 
simplest form of mediaeval Gothic architecture. One tower has a chime 
of bells, and in the other hangs " Gros Bourdon," the largest bell in 
America, weighing nearly 15 tons. The tower is generally open (small 
fee to the doordceeper), and aff'ords from its sunnnit a noble * view of the 
city and its environs (especially of the river, the bridge, and islands). 

T ■ * 



370 Route 51 MONTREAL. 

Alongside the church is the ancient Sennuary of St Sulpice on the site 
of the Semmary of 1057, as the church is near the sxte of the Lotre 
Dame of 1(571. The present church vvas buiit lb^4-9, and was con.e- 
crate.1 hy the Bishop of Tehnesse in partibus. Fronting on the Place 
d'tmes'isthe elegant Ontario Bank and the hall of the Grand Lodge 
of Masons of Canada. A short distance to the K, on Notre Dan. 
St an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive and secluded Con^ 
vent of the Black Nuns. Farther on, the Court House is seen on he 1.,-^ 
a stately st me huiUling in the Ionic architecture (300 x 12o ft. ), back of 
which is the Champ dc Mars, or Parade Ground, an open space covermg 
60,000 square yards, and fronted by the old building of the Donumou 
Military School. Just beyond the Court House, the Jacques Caitier 
S.iuare opens off Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapidated 
.nouumentto Nelson. Tlie Jacques Cartier Normal School (in the ancient 
French Government buildhig) and the Institut Caua.lien (with a fine 
library) front on the Government Garden, at the head of this square By 
the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the Bonsecours Market may 
he visited. This market is unrivalled in America, and is built of stone, 
at a cost of $300,000. It is 3 stories high, has a dome, and presents an 
imposing front to the river. The curious French costumes and anguage 
of the country people who congregate here on market-days, as well as some 
peculiarities of the wares offered for sale, render a visit very ";t-esting 
Alonc^side of the market is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000) 
thich was built in 1658. A short distance beyond is tire extensive 
Q c G^te Barrack, on Dalhousie Square, while the Victoria Pier makes 
ormto the stream towards St. Helenas Isle (a fortified depot of ammu- 
nlllw war..a^eWeZ). To the N., on Craig St. is tbe attractive ^iger 
Garden with a small conservatory and several fountams, fronting on 
which is Trimty Church (Episcopal), built of Montreal stone m Early 
English Gothic architecture, and accommodating 4,000 persons. N. of 

Trhiity, and also on St. Denis St., is St. f-^^f --Vfl e E of Da^ 

pointi Gothic style, with rich stained glass. Some distance E. of Da 
lousie Square on St. Mary St., is Molson's College (abandoned) and St. 

J;;rmaf Church (Episcopal), with the great buildings of Molson's brewery 

and the Painneau Market and Square. 

McGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria Square 

to the river Considerable wholesale trade ia done here and ip. the inter- 
secting^ St Paul St. The Donnnion and Cathedral Buildings are rich and 
n as i;-e, while pist beyond is the extensive St. Ann's Market, on the site 
of the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgm signed the un- 
popular Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob who also 
drove the Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt that budding. 
Commissioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's Market and tlie elegant C^,sto■^ 



MONTREAL. Route 5 It. 371 

ll'iuso to the broad promenades on the river- walls. Ottawa St. leads to 
the W. to the great masonry of the Lachiue Canal Basins and the vicinity 
of the Victoria Bridge. 

Radegonde St. and Beaver Hall Hill lead N. from Victoria Square, 
passing Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. Tlie 
armed congregation repulsed the assailants twice, and then the troops 
restored peace, 40 men being killed or seriously wounded. Just al)0ve is 
the Baptist Cliurch, overlooked 1)y the tall Church of the Messiali (Uni- 
tarian), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to 
tlie r., Lagauclietiere St. leads to 8t. Patrick'' s Church.^ a stately Gothic 
building, 240 ft. long by 90 ft. wide, accommodating 5,000 persons, and 
adorned with a spire 225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow 
lancet windows are filled with stained glass. A short distance farther, 
on Bleury St., are the massive stone buildings of St. Mary's College 
(Jesuit), near the front of the Churcli of tlie Gesti. The nave of this 
church (75 ft. high) is bounded l)y rich composite columns, and the tran- 
septs are 144 ft, long, while the v/alls are covered with fine frescos. 

Over tlie High Altar is the Crucifixion, and the Adoration of the Spotless 
Lamb, above which is the Nativity. Against the cokimns at the crossing ni' the 
nave and transepts are statues of St. Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, 
St. LnlvC with a child, and St. John with an eagle. On the ceiling of the nave 
ftre frescos of St. Thomas Repentant, the Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and 
Child amid angelic choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of 8 saints 
of the Order of Jesus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the !. transept, is a fresco 
of the Trinity, near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Gonzaga receiving his first 
comnumion from St. Charles Borronieo, Cardinal Archbishoj) of Milan. To the r. 
is a fresco of St. Ignatius Loyola in the grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ's 
Appearance to him near Rome, while above is Christ Blessing Little Cliildren. 
Over St. Joseph's Altar, in the r. transei^t, is a jiainting of the Eternal Father, on 
the r. of which is another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka Receiving Communion 
from Angels. On the 1. is a fresco of the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki 
(Japan) ; on the r. is the Martyrdom of St. Andrew Boliola. in Poland ; and above 
is the Raising of Lazarus. On the ceiling is the Holy Family at Work. 

Turning now to the W. on St. Catharine St., one soon reaches Christ 
Churcli Cathedral, the best representative of Engli.sh Gothic archi- 
tecture in America. It is built of Caen and Montreal stone, is cruciform, 
and a stone spire 224 ft. high springs from the centre of the cross. Tlie 
choir has a fine window and some carved stalls, and is laid with encaustic 
tiles, while the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by 
columns whose capitals are cai'ved to represent Canadian plants. Near the 
Cathedral is a quaint octagonal chapter-house, used also for the diocesan 
library, and the house of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Ca7ia:la) 
is in the same vicinity. A short distance N. is McGill College, or Uni- 
versity, which was endowed in 1814 and opened in 1828. It is below the 
reservoir on Mount Royal, from which a charming view of the city and 
river may be gained. Some distance W. of the college, and fronting on 
the same street (Sherbrooke), is the vast and imposing Seminary of St. 
Sulpice, for the education of Roman Catholic priests. On St. Catharine, 



372 Route H. THE LACHINE BAPIDS. 

(Presbyterian), ami also the Clun cli ol ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^.^ 

Gothic 1>uiUmg^"th an aannraUe towe an,l ''1. , ,,„ ji,t,,„u.,t, 

„„ Dorchester St. are the foUownjg ^^^^^"Z'J,,,^ Preshy- 

a graceful hnihU"g "' "'^f^' ^''ct r h bUoklyn, K. Y. ; and the 
terian, an exact copy of the lark ^ "' . ,,„„„,.^te,, Gotldc 

arnrch of St. George (Einscopal), ^"^ J^ ^^/J V,.,!^,,, , Un.ber roof, 
architecture, with deep t™^f ^; '=°f /,, *™'i„ „f thi square is the 
and flue schooLbuildings attached ^'^'^.^^^ of L immense 
£«„;/» Paiace, near which are t><',»'°;^" "°,;^ „„,lel of St. Peter's 
„ew Catholic Cathedr^ ™1»^- »;- '™'\;": Xehestcr St., on the 

at Rome, though ™^ - _^^^"'* , g the Cray iV«-, (founded 
r., is seen the vast cmciloim duuui o -^^^^^^^ ^;t^3_ 

,m, with a ronndling Ilosv. al n.,d ^^ J f-^^e m ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ 

Marie is the large bu, dmg "VVO^^^^^ ,^^^i^, boarding-school 

erected for a Bapfst Co loge^ «» ^- '^^ ^,,„,,„,,_ ,„,„ „.,ve, in the 
„„der i^'-^^'-^-S^'^f^fJ-^^ * , „,,,,, ,,a, f„„ndcd by Marguente 
city, 07 schools am 1^ »« W^ ■„„ p„„,,,t„ St. are the flue bu.ldu.gs 
Bourgeoys,nl659) r,^he^ ._^^^ ^,^^„.^„^, There are many 

l!r rimll Iml l^^^c buildings in the city, and the streets toward 
Monnt Royal arc lined with attractive vdlas. „,^,,,,<,, „„,! tho 

There arc pleasant excursions rom M<'»tjj^^ jj,,„,, „, Mary, 

isle desus, 'o Hochelaga, t^e ^•as U^^cu of^the^^^^^^ y _^^^ ^^^^^^^_ ^^ 

and Longrie Pomte; to *« J"™ a e to the mountain and to the rap.ds. 
carriage; but the two *=^^•r^*'*M Cs^oing out St. Lawrence Main St., 
'•Around the Mo^'^^ ^^uhe long slopes to the pretty village 
by the immense Hotel Dieu ami «, tlicnee, a glorious view is 

of Cote des Keiges. Aseendmg the n oui ^^^^ ^.^^^^ ^,.^,^ ^1^^ 

soon revealed, embracing the city, '^ 8 «^' J^^ y„, fa „f Vermont 
bridge, St. Helen's Isle, -'\Longn™ , amme 1 ^^^^^^^^^, ^^,, .^^ 

reSbj'iLy" r °i--^^^^^^ - — — 

_ especially those of the Molson family. ^^^^^.^^_ 

r" ,m,s throcsl. »« k.!.;;Is »'' » ?" .~ , Sa.'tte ste.mer passes out 

did your vessel but touch them, \vouiu 



MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. Route 55. 373 

crash could sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, 
— if licr head were not kept straight with tlie course of the rapid, she would be 
instantly subinei-ged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absohite preci- 
pice i>f waters ; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanclies, are thrown 
high into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the 
wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on 
the calm, unruffled bosom of ' below the rapids.' " 

The steamer, just before reaching the city, passes under the * Victoria 
Bridge, the longest and costliest bridge in the world. It consists of 23 spans of 
242 ft. each (the centre one being 330 ft. long) resting on 2-4 piers built of heavy 
blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron-riveted, witli sharp wedge-faces to 
the down current. The tubes containing the track are 19 ft. high by IG ft. wide, 
and the bridge is approached by abutments 2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, wliich, 
with the G,594 ft. of inm tubing, makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to 
grade, and over \\ M. from shore to shore. The bridge was begun in 1854, and 
finished in 1859 ; it used up 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and co.st 
86,300,000. The view of Montreal from the bridge is one of the most beautiful 
imaginable. 



55. Montreal to Quebec— The St. Lawrence River. 

The large and elegant royal mail steamers of the Richelieu Company leave 
the Richelieu Pier (root of Jacques Cartier Square) at 7 p. m. daily, and arrive at 
Quebec early the next morning. During certain seasons a steamer of the samo 
line ran twice or thrice weekly between the two cities, leaving at early morning. 
It was thought that this day-line would be continued, and if it is, it should be 
preferred to the evening boats, as enabling the tourist to see the river and its vil- 
lages. Fares to Quebec, first class (with meals and state-room), .$ 2.00 ; second 
class, -Si. 00. The Grand Trunk Railway runs trains to Quebec in 8-9 hrs., by 
way of iSt. Ilyacinthe, Richmond, and Arthabaska. 

As tlie steamer passes out into the stream, the fortified island of St. 
Helen is seen in front, and fine views of the Victoria Bridge, Mount Royal, 
and the city are gained. Just below St. Helen's Isle, on the r. bank, is 
Longueuil, where there are many villas pertaining to wealthy city people. 
A short distance below, on the 1. bank, is Longue Pointe, with the Con- 
vent des Sffiurs de la Providence, and at 9 M. from Montreal Pointe aiix 
Trembles is passed, with its ancient village, which dates from 1674. The 
steamer then enters the channels between the low, marshy islands of Bou- 
cherville, famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here 
at the close of winter. Passing Varcnnes on the r., with the bold BeLeil 
Mt. in the S., the mouth of the Pdviere des Prairies is seen on the 1., with 
the village of UAssomption beyond. Tliere are valuable mineral springs 
near Varennes, from which a steamer nms to Montreal four times a week. 
The river now passes between the parishes of Cap Michael, Vercheres, 
Contrecour, and St. Ours, on the r. bank, and St. Sulpice, La Valtrie, La 
Noraye, and Dautraye on the 1. bank. The spires of Berthier are seen 
on the 1., as another cluster of islands is threaded, and the town of Sore! 
is reached. This place occupies an important position at the confluence 
of the PJchelieu and St. Lawrence Rivers, and was fortified in 1G65 by 
Gov. De Tracey. For many years it was the summer residence of the 
Governors, and on being visited by Prince William Henry of England (af- 



374 Route 55. THE ST. LAWRENCE PJVER 

tevwanls William IV.) an abortive attempt was made to change its name 
to Wiin-uu Henry. The place has al.out 3,000 inhabitants, and is built 
aronnd a large square, near which are fine Roman and Anglican churches. 
The hunting and fishing in this vicinity are of provmcial fame. The 
steamer now passes another archipelago, and at 5 M. ^^low Soi;el enters 
Lake St. Peter, a broadening of the river 25 M. long and 9 M wide. The \ 
lake is shallow, but has a deep and narrow channel (partly artificia), U 
which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large vessels. \ 
Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward like floa ing | 
islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of the lumber- 



men 



, and bearing sxreamuib, sano, ^.i^v^i i^^- -— - |. 

In stormy weather on the Ijike these rafts sometimes come to f | 
pieces. Soon after entering this broad expanse, the mouth of the St. J 
Francis River is seen on the r., with the village of St. Franeu. Below . 
the shores of Lussaudiere and St. Antoine, the mouth of the Nicolet 
River appears on the r., and farther do^vn (on the 1.) is the vdlage ot 
Fond du Lac. Three Rivers is now approached, and the steamer stops 
midway between Montreal and Quebec. This city was founded (as Trois 
Rivieres) in 1618, and has at present 9,000 mhabitants, ^^^'"^ -'^'f^"^. 
in lun ber, which is brought down the St. Maurice River. The Catholic 
Cathedral, the Ursuline Convent, and other fine buildings adorn the city. 

The St. Maurice River waters a district of ™"-"«° (jJ^'^^IJJ^nild?.^!?^ , 
abounding in lakes an<l in forests, l^^'' >';";;, ^t.^^^^f^'^^to SeeSvI^wliere ^ 
have been visited by the umber , en who ^^^^^^ ^^,,; ^h, „| 

the hiiuber is sawed. About 22 M. aDovc ^'''- "-'f ,■ , descent of 150 ft., be- j 
amgan, where the great river plunges ^^^^^.^^If^^f^^^^^^^^ miles above 

twee.1 tlie lofty rocks called La (^^^'%^l^l%'^'^^^^^ canoes and 

are the Falls of the ^^r'™^\-Mcre- J^ ^ e faj s ai^^^is^^ _ ^^o^^-^^ ^^oyagenrs 

=l5e^^l;:r^^?iroi:fL clSd S!^l^..^ and stoves. _ 

Opposite Three Rivers is Doucet's Landing, at Beeancor.r the te-umis 
of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway (see Route 40), and to the N. L., 
aro theSt. Maurice, is the thriving village of ^ap ^e la Ma^lehun . 
The steamer passes Gentilly (on the r.) and stops -t^^^^--' J f^^ 
low Three Rivers, then passes Ste. Marie and Ste. Anne o • a.^ 

St Pierre on the r. Lotbiniere, on the r., is seen, and then the Mlla e 
o sf C ok s iding on Pointe Platon. Point aux Trembles marks the 
ot St. L-ioix, sian(iiu„ u i T -.I-p ^t Peter to the lofty summits 

transition from the low shores toward Lake ^t- Peter to the lo > 
of the Laurentian Mts. St. Augustin (1.) and St. Antome (^•)J^J^^J^^ 
passed and then the mouth of the Chaudiere, Cap Rouge, and the Milage 
o St lean Chrysostome. The heights of Point Levi now appear on ho 
I;/rthart,e walls and spires of Quebec. Travellers by the 
nV.^httat should make arrangements to be awakened an ^jonr U^oi 
"Lhing the end of the route, as the view of Quebec from the ma at 
early morning is a thing whicli can never be forgotten. 




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QUEBEC. Route 56. 375 



^Q, Quebec. 

Arrival. If the traveller has inucli ba-gage, it is best to take the hotel-car- 
riage to t.ie Upper Town. The caleche is not adaj'ted to carrying luggage. 

Hotels. Tiie St. Louis Hotel (near the Uurliaui Terrace) is a large old' house, 
aecounno latiiig 4 - 500 guests, at ^3 - 8.50 a day. The Albion House (on Pal- 
ace St.) IS Ie.;s pretentious and expensive. Henchey's Hotel, opposite tlie Angli- 
can Cathedral, is quiet and moderate (for gentlemen travelling eti qargon). In the 
Lower Town are Blanchard's Hotel and several otliers, two of wh'icli are French. 
Carriages in every variety may be procured at the stables, but the usual mode 
of r!<ling is by the caleche. a singular and usually very shabby-looking vehicle, 
perclied on two high wheels, with tlie driver sitting on a narrow ledge in front! 
These vehicles are drawn by homely but hardy little horses, and are usually drive^x 
by French Canadians. 1-2 persons may engage a caleche to go to the Montino- 
renci Falls, Lorette, or Cap Rouge, for §2.00. Horse-cars traverse the riverward 
streets in the Lower Town. 

Keadingr-rooms. The Y M. C. Association, outside St. John Gate, and the 
elegant library of the Quebec Historical Society (in Morrin College) are open to the 
visits of strangers. 

Language. More than half of the citizens of Quebec, and nearly all of the 
inhabitants of the surrounding villages, speak French as their mother-tongue. 
Very many of them have a knowledge, more or less perfect, of the English lan- 
guai-e, while many of the British citizens speak French also. The langu'age in its 
written forms (as seen in the numerous French books, magazines, and newspai)er.s 
pubUshed in Quebec) is correct and inti'lligil)le, but the speech of the lower classes 
and of tlie rustics is difficult and often impossible to understand. It is not 
Parisian or even Rouennaise French, but a strong provincial dialect, brouglit 
from the rural districts of Normandy in the 17th century, and enriche<l by "the 
addition of later local idioms. (The sliarp, dissyllabic cry with wliich the caieche- 
drivers urge tiieir liorses forward, is " Marche-donc") 

The Post-Office is on Du Fort St. The most attractive shops are on Fabrique 
and St. John Sts., and about the French Cathedral. 

Railways. The Grand Trunk Radway has its terminal station at Point 
Levi, 817 M. from Portland, 425 M. from Boston, 586 M. from New York and 
2,684 M. from New Orleans. There is also a railroad of most ])rimitive construc- 
tion, with its terminus in the Banlicue, whicli runs slow and infrequent trains up 
the valley of the St. Charles for 20-25 M. To Boston, see Routes 24 and 2t» or 
Routes 40 and 37. 

Steamers. Ferry-boats run to Point Levi every Vy minutes ; also thrice daily 
to the Isle of Orleans ; and at varying intervals tothe French river-towns Semi- 
weekly steamers run to the Sagucnay River ; fare to Cacouna and return, $ 8 00 ; 
to Tadousac, >$ 4.00 ; to Ha Ha Bay and return, $ 7.00. Large steamers leave 




„" v,..v..,ii.,.v^ ie.lL. \^ iMi iTi. 'iiiicj i mill V. ± in; mil II lliiu 

ot transatlantic steamers despatches one ship weekly during 'the summer and 
early fall. ^ j o 

Quebec, "the Gibraltar of America," and the second city in the 
Dominion of Canada, is situated at the confluence of the St. Chades and 
St. Lawrence Kivcrs, 400 M. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and 180 M. 
from Montreal. It has over 75,000 inhabitants, and its chief business is 
in the handling and exportation of lum]>er, of which $ 5-7,000,000 worth 
is sent away annually. Tliere are miles of coves along the St. Lawrence 
shore, arranged for the reception and protection of the vast rafts whicli 
come down from the northern forests. A very considerable export trade 



376 Route 56. QUEBEC. 

in grain is also done here, and the city derives nmch henefit from being 
tlie terminus of transatlantic lines of sliipping, wliicli makes it a depot of 
immigration. Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded 
by the two rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the 
Upper and Lower Towns, tlie former being enwailed and strongly fortified 
and standing on a bluff 350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the con- 
tracted strips between the cliffs and the rivers. The streets are narrow, 
crooked, and often very steep, while the houses are generally built of 
cut stone, in a style of severe simplicity. 

Jacques Cartier set sail from St. Malo, in the spring of 1535, with three well- 
armed vessels, and steering boldly to the westward, he- entered the Gulf of 8t. 
Lawrence and gave it its present name, in honor of the saint on whose festival- 
day he had made the discovery. He ascended to 8tadacona, an Indian vilhige on 
the site of Quebec (whose present name is derived from "Quel bee !" the Norman 
sailors' shout on seeing the lofty precipice, or else from "Quebeio,"an Algon- 
quin word meaning strait.) After ascending to Montreal, Cartier returned to 
Quebec and wintered there, and in 1541 a fort was erected near Charlcsbourg. The 
place was then deserted until 1008, when Chami»laiu founded Quebec, and built a 
fort on its present site. Franciscan monks came to the new colony in 1015, and 
in 1614 a party of Jesuits arrived. In 162S Sir David Kirk (or Kertk) attacked 
the place, ami in 1029, after a long blockade, the English fleet took Quebec. It 
was restored to France in l(i32, and in 1635 Governor Champlain died here and 
was buried in the Lower Town. In 1065 a large cargo of ladies arrived from 
France, and were all disposed of in marriage within a fortnight. In 1672 the 
Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor, and in 1690 he bravely repulsed 
an attack by Sir Wm. Phipi>s's fleet (from Boston), inflicting severe damage by a 
cannonade from the fort. Besides many men. the assailants lost their admiral's 
standard and eight vessels. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston 
agahist Quebec, but he lo.st in one day eight vessels and 8S4 men by shipwreck 
on the terrible cliffs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortilications were built soon 
after ; and in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with S,OOo liritish soldiers. The 
Mar.'piis de Montcalm Avas then Governor, and he moved the French army into 
fortified lines on Beauport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary 
action. On the night of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drifted up stream on the risiny 
tide, and sunceedeil in scaling the steep cliffs beyond the city. They were lired 
ui)on by the French outpost.s"; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across 
the St. Charles the British lines were formed upcni the Plains of Abraham ; and in 
the short but desperate batth; which ensued both the generals were mortally 
woimded. The English lost 604 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French 
army, which was largely composed of provincial le\'ics (with the regiments of La 
Guienne, Roval Roussilon, Beam, La Sarre, and Languedoe) gave way, and 
retreate.l acn'tss the St. Charles, and a few days later the city surrendered. 

In April, 1700, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family — Dukes of Venta- 
dour— which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch 
Levi) led the reorganized French army to St. Foye, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, 
hoping to surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the 
Plains of Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murray was deleatcd and 
hurled back within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levi:; now 
laid close siege to the city, and battered the walls (and es]iecially St. John's ihxh) 
from tlu-ee heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant camii'ii 
ade from 132 guns, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet fr(Uii 
England. The British supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the 
Treaty of Paris, and Voltaire congratulated Louis XV. on being rid of " 1,500 
leagues of frnzcn country." In the winter of 1775-0 the Americans besieged tlie 
city, then conunanded l»y Gen. Guy Carleton (afterwards made Loid Dorchester). 
The i)rovisioi\s of the besiegers began to fail, their regiments were being depleted 
by sickness, and their liglit guns made but little impression on the massh^e 
city-walls ; so an assault was orclered and conducted before dawn on Dee. 31, 1775. 
In the midst of a heavy suow-storui Arnold advanced through the Lower Town 



QUEBEC. Route 56. 377 

from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and led his 800 New-Eiiglanders and 
Virginians over two or thiee barricades. The Montreal Bank and several other 
massive stone houses were tilled with British regulars, who guarded tliea])proaches 
with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced to take retuge in the ad- 
Joining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and carried to tlie rear. 
Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Continentals N. along 
Chanii)lain St. bythe river-side. The intention was for the two attacking columns, 
after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before the Prescott Gate 
and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across Cliamphun «t. 
from the cliff to the river ; but wlicn its guards saw the great masses of the attaclc- 
ing column advancing through the twilight, tliey fled. In all jn-obability Mont- 
gomery would have crossed tlie barricade, delivered Arnold's men by attacking 
the enemy hi the rear, and then, with 1,500 men flushed with victory, would have 
es'^aladetl the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one af tlie 
fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly Ijack, and fired 
the canmni which stood loaded on tlie barricade. Montgomery and many of his 
officers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke uji in 
I-anic, and fleil. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, wlio 
were hnmnied in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 ottlceis and men were 
made i>risoiicrs. A painted l)oard has been hung high up on the cliff over the 
l>lai;e m Champlain St. where :M;)ntgomery fell. Montgomery was an ofiicer in 
"Wolfe's army when Quebec was taken from the French 1.5 years before, and knew 
the ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the 
capital of Canada from 1760 to 1791, and after that it served as a semi-cqiital, 
until the founding of Ottawa City. In 1845 2,900 houses were burnt ami the 
place was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber- 
trade which is still its specialty. 

" There is no city in America more famous in the annals of hi.story than Quebec, 
and few (m the continent of Europe more picturesquely situateil. Whilst the 
surrounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of tlie Bosphorus, the 
airy site of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edinimrgh. Que- 
bec may be best described by su]jposing that an ancient Norman fortress of two 
centuries ago had been encased in amber, transported by magic to Canada, and 
placed on the summit of Cape Diamond." 

"Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A 
military town, containing about 20,000 inhabitants ; most compactly and perma- 
nently built, — stone its sole material ; environed, as to its most imi>ortant jiarts, 
by walls and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon ; . . . . founded 
upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country ; 
3-4(i0 miles from the ocean, in the midst of a great continent, and yet displaying 
fleets of foreign merchantmen in its fine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle 
of a crowdc'i seaport; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down 
almost mountainous declivities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of 
Europe, exliihiting in its environs the beauty of an European cai)ital, and yet in 
winter smarting with the cold of Siberia ; governed by a people of dilferent 
language and habits from the mass of the population, opposed in religion, and 
yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the enjoyment of every privilege, 
civil and religious : such are the prominent features which strike a stranger ia 
the city of Quebec." (Prof. Silliman.) 

" Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a 
commercial city together, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an 
eagle, while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; an 
American city inhabited by French cohmists, governed by England, and garri- 
soned by Scotch regiments ; a city of the Middle Ages by most of its ancient 
institutions, while it is subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional 
government ; an European city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and 
still close by the remnants of tlie Indian tribes and tlie barren nits, of the North ; 
a city with about tlie same latitude as Paris, while successively combining the 
torrid climate of southern regi(nis with the severities of an hyperborean winter ; 
a city at the same time Catholic and Protestant, where the labors of our (French) 
missions are still uninterrupted alongside of the undertakings of the Bible Society, 
and where the Jesuits, driven out of our own country, find refuge under the 
aegis of British Pimtanisra." (X. Marmiek'-s " Lettres tiur VAnicrUiuc," 18G0.) 



378 Route 56. THE DURHAM TERRACE. 

"Leavinrc the citadel, we are once more in the European Mifldlc Ages. Gates 
and posterns, cranky steps that lead up to lofty, gaV)led liouses, with sliarp 
French root's of burnished tin, like tliose of Liege ; processions of the Host ; altars 
decked with flowers ; statues of the Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and tlie scarlet of 
the Britisli linesman, — all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are 
graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east 

Yankee State of Maine. It is not far from New England to Old France 

There has been no dying out of the race among the French Canadians. They 
number twenty times tlie thousands tliat they did 100 years ago. The American 
soil has left their physical type, religion, language, and laws absolutely untouched. 
They herd together in their rambling villages, dance to the fiddle after mass on 
Sundays, — asgaylyas once did their Norman sires, — and keep up the /ewr-dc-^j/a 
and the memory of Montcalm. More French than the French are the Lower 
Canada habitans. The pulse-beat of the continent finds no echo here." (Sir 
Charles Dilke.) 

* Dufferin Terrace is on the riverward edge of the Upper Town, and 
stands on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau 
of St. Louis, which was built by Champlain in 1620. The old chateau 
was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and 
governor's palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was ruined by fire. 
The terrace is 200 ft. above the river, and commands a * view of surjiass- 
ing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets of the Lower 
Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one side are the 
lofty, fortified bluffs of Point Levi, and on the otlier the St. Charles River 
winds away up its peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch 
off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while beyond are seen the 
farms of L' Ange Gardien, extending towards the heights of St. Fereol. Ves- 
sels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the river, 
and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond 
and over all are the bold peaks of the Laurentian Range, with Cap Tour- 
inente towering over the river far in the distance. The Terrace is the 
favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents a pleasant scene in the 
late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. At the upper end of the Terrace 
is a plain stone structure called the Old Chateau, which was built about 
17S0 for the British governors. 

"There is not in the world a nobler outlook than that from the terrace at Que- 
bec. You stand ui^on a rock overlianging city ami river, and look down ujion the 
guard-ships' masts. Acre upon acre of timber comes floating down the stream 
above the city, the Canadian boat-songs just reaching you upon the heights ; and 
beneath you are fleets of great shii)s, English, German, French, and Dutch, em- 
barking the timber from the floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere 
to be seen." (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

The Place cVArines is a pretty little park between the Terrace and the 
Anglican Cathedral, a large, plain building of stone, which has a superb 
communion-set (presented by George III.), and within which is the tomb 
of Charles, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Daubigny, who died while 
Governor-General of Canada (1819). The monument of Jacob Mountain, 
D. D., first Anglican Bishop, is in the chancel. Dr. JNIouiitain was in the 
presence of King George, when he expressed a doubt as to whom he should 



AROUND THE RAMPARTS. Route 56. 379 

appoint as "bishop of the new See of Quebec. Said the doctor, " If your 
Majesty had faith, there would be no difficulty." " How so ? " said the 
king. Mountain answered, '' If you had faith, you would say to this 
Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would be done." It 
was. The Cathedral, rectory, and Chapel of All Saints, stand on ground 
formerly occupied by the Franciscan (Recollet) monks, and on the same 
tract the Court House is built, fronting on St. Louis St. Beyond the 
Court House is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old buildings of 
the Commissariat and Crown Lands Departments, and the St. Louis 
Hotel. 

Around the Ramparts. 

The Street des Carrieres runs S. from the Place d'Armes to the Govern- 
or's Garden, a pleasant summer-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. 
high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bearing 
the elegant and classic inscription : 

Mortem. Virtus. Communem. 

Famam. Historia. 

monumentum. posteritas. 

Debit. 

In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des 
Carrieres St. leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, and by turning to 
the r. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be 
seen. Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., and the Chalmers (Pres.) 
Chxirch on the 1., and turning to the 1. on St. Louis St., the St. Louis 
Gate i;s soon reached. A road turning to the 1. just inside the Gate leads 
through deep entrenched passages commanded by powerful batteries, and 
by the Chain Gate to the Dalhousie Gate of The Citadel. This immense 
fortil] cation covers 40 acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of 
Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), 
which is said to be " the coldest place in the British Empire." Since the 
evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been gar- 
risoned by provincial volunteers, and visitors are usually permitted to 
pass around the walls lender the escort of a soldier. The * view from the 
most northerly bastion (which contains an immense Armstrong gun) sur- 
passes that from the Durham Terrace, and is one of the most magnificent 
in the world. The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate, 
and the tourist is recommended to walk along the ramparts to St. John's 
Gate, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, and the ancient 
ordnance at the embrasures. Outside stands the vast new Parliament 
House, on the Grande Allde. The ramparts are broken by the picturesque 
Kent Gate, erected by Queen Victoria. St. John's Gate is a modern 
structure, and is both strong and graceful. While rallying his soldiers' 



380 Route 56. QUEBEC. 

just outside of this Gate, the Marquis de Montcalm ■vvas mortally wounded 
(in 1759 )j and Col. Brown (of Mass.) attacked the Gate while Arnold and 
Montgomery were fighting in the Lower ToAvn. The ramparts must be 
left here, and D'Auteuil and St. Helene Sts. follow their course hy the 
Artillery Barracks (built by the French in 1750) to the Palace Gate, 
close to which is the Hotel Dieu Convent. This institution was founded 
by the Duchesse d'Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Richelieu) in 1639. In 1654 
one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was built during 
the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. 
There are 30- 40 nuns of tlie order of the Hopitalieres, and the hospital 
is open freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever sect, witli attend- 
ance by the best doctors of the city. Among the pictures here are, Virgin 
and Child, hy Coy pel ; Nativity^ Stdla ; St. Bruno, hy Le Sueur, "the 
Raphael of France." From Palace Gate to Hope Gate (900 ft.) the ram- 
parts may be followed, with fine views over the two rivers, the Isle of 
Orleans, andtlie La\irentian Mts. Tlie walls are built on a lofty cliff, and 
are very thin, but have lines of loopholes and are guardeil by bastions. 
Hope Gate was built in 1784, and has well-fortified approaches. The 
ramparts may be followed from this point to the Parliament House, pass- 
ing tlie stately Laval University and the Grand Battery, where 22 32- 
pounders command the river, and whence a pleasing view may be ob- 
tained. The old Parliament House, on the site of Champlain's fort and 
the ancient Episcopal palace, was an extensive but plain building, whose 
glory departed with the decapitalization of Quebec. A short distance be- 
yond is the Prescott Gate, the main avenue of communication between 
the Upper and Lower Towns, and Dufierin Terrace is just S. of the Gate. 

The Market Square is nearly in the centre of the Upper Town, and 
presents a curious and interesthig appearance on market-mornings, when 
the French peasantry bring in their farm products. On the E. is the 
Roman Cathedral of the Ivimaculate Conception, which was built in 1666, 
destroyed by cannonading from Wolfe's batteries in 1759, and rebuilt soon 
after. Its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely, but the interior is 
more pleasing, and accommodates 4,000 persons. The High Altar is Avell 
adorned, and the choir of boys from the Seminary is much esteemecL 
The most notable pictures are, **The Crucifixion ("the Christ of the 
Cathedral," the finest painting in Canada), by Van Dyck (on the first pillar 
1. of the altar) ; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, Carlo Maratti ; the Annunci- 
ation, Rp.stoiU ; the Baptism of Christ, HalU. ; tlie Pentecost, Yvjnon ; 
Miracles of Ste. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels Waiting on Christ, Restout 
(in the choir) ; the Nativity, copy from Annihale Caracci ; Holy Family, 
Blanckard. The remains of Champlain, the heroic explorer and founder 
and first Governor of Quebec, are in the Cathedral. Alongside of the 
Cathedral are the ancient, rambling, and extensive buildings of the Semi- 



QUEBEC. Route 56. 381 

nary, which was founded in 1663 by Fran9ois de Montmorenci Laval, 
Bishop of Quebec from 1658 to 1688. Tiiis institution is divided into Le 
Grand Senmiaire and Le Petit Seminaire ; the first being a school of 
theology, and the second being devoted to literature and science (for boys). 
There are about 400 students, who may be distinguished in the streets by 
their uniform. 

The Seminary Chapel has some fine paintings (beginning at the r. of the 

entraucu) : The iSaviour and tlie yaniaritan Woman, La Grenee ; The Virgin At- 
tended by Angels, Dicii; The Crucifixion, Monet; The Hermits of the Tliebaid, 
Guiliot; The Vision of 8t. Jerome, i)7/Hiii ft; *The Ascension, PMllipc de Cham- 
pagne; The Burial of Clirist, Hutin ; (over the altar) The Flight into Egjjpt, 
Vanloo ; above which is a picture of angels, Lehruii; The Trance of St. Anthony, 
Parrocel d'Avlynoii ; The Day of Pentecost, P. da Chavipaijne ; St. Peter Freed from 
Prison, De la Fosse: The Baptism of Christ, Halle; 'tit. Jerome Writing, J. B. 
Champagne; Adoration of the Jlagi, Bonnien. "The Cha]>el on the r. of the chief 
altar contams the relics of St. Clement ; that on the 1. the relics of St. Modestus." 

Adjoining the Seminary is its goodly child, the Laval University, 
whose main building is of cut stone, 280 ft. long and 5 stories high, and 
cost $240,000. The museum of Huron antiquities, the collection of Ca- 
nadian birds, the library of nearly 50,000 volumes, the fine scientific in- 
struments, the rich gallery of pictures, and the far-viewing, enrailed 
promenade on the roof are all worthy of a visit. The extensive dormi- 
tories and the medical college occupy substantial stone buildings in the 
vicinity. 

On the W. of the Market Square stood the great pile of buildings which 
were partly erected in 1646, for the Jesuits' College. The college was 
suspended in 1759 by Gen. Murray, wiio quartered his troops here, and 
in 1809 the property reverted to the Crown, on the death of the last of 
the Jesuit Fathers. Tlie buildings were afterwards used for barracks, 
when used at all. Passing St. Anne's Market and the Anglican Cathedral, 
Garden St. runs S. to the Ursuline Convent, which was founded by 
Madame de la Peltrie in 1639. Part of the present buildings were built 
in 1686, and with the gardens and offices they cover 7 acres. There are 
40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and also to working in era- 
broidery, painting, &c. The parlor and chapel are open to visitors, and 
in the latter are some good paintings : * Mater Dolorosa, Van Dyck ; The 
Saviour, Chavipagne ; Christ in Simon's House, Champagne ; and a 
small picture by Resiout. Within a grave made by a sliell which burst 
in this chapel, during Wolfe's bombardment, is buried '' the High and 
Mighty Lord, Louis Joseph, Marquis of Montcalm," and over his remains 
is the inscription, " Honneur a Montcalm ! Le destin en lui derobant la 
victoire I'a recompense par une mort glorieuse ! " Morrin College (on St. 
Anne St.) is a neat stone building, in one of whose halls is the extensive 
and valuable library of the Quebec Historical Society (open to the pub- 
lic). There are several other churches and public buildings among the 



382 Route 56. QUEBEC. 

narrow streets of the Upper To\vn. St. Patrick's, on St. Helen St., liai 
a neat Ionic interior, and the church, manse, and school of St. Andrew 
(Presbyterian) occupy stone buildings on St. Anne St. At the corner of 
St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of Wolfe, which is 
nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to Quebec as does the 
Mannikin to Brussels. It was once stolen by night by some roystering 
naval officers, and carried off to Barbadoes, whence it was returned many 
months after, enclosed in a coffin. In the front of the Post-Office, on 
Buade St., is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone and gilded, under which 
is the inscription : — 

" Je guts un chien qui ronge I'os ; (" I am a dog gnawing a bone. 

En le rongeant ie prend men repos. While I gnaw I take my repose. 

Un temps viendra qui nest pas venu The time will come, though not jret. 

Que je uiordrais qui m aura mordu." When I will bite him who now bites me.") 

This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Philibert, who had 
suffered wrong from him; but soon after the carved stone had been put 
into the front of Philibert's house, that gentleman was assassinated by an 
officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian 
army, but was pursued by Philibert's brother, and after a severe conflict 
was killed at Pondicherry. Near the Post-Office is the large and elegant 
building of the Bishop's Palace. Mountain St. descends through the 
Prescott Gate to the Lower Town, with the steep, crowded, and pictu- 
resque Chamjjlain Stejjs on the r., near whose foot the remains of Cham- 
plain were recently found, in the vault of an ancient chapel. 

The Montcalm and St. Jolm Wards extend W. from the city walls to 
the line of the Martello Towers. In the latter ward is the large Church 
of St. John (Catholic), and also the Gray Nunnery (70 sisters), with a 
lofty and elegant chapel. Above the Nunnery and fronting on the glacis 
is the Convent of the Christian Brothers. The steep street called Cote 
d' Abraham descends thence to the Jacques Cartier Ward of the Lower 
Town, beyond which, on the banks of the St. Charles, is the Marine 
Hospital, a large and imposing modern building in Ionic architecture 
(with 6 acres of grounds) ; and the General Hospital, an extensive pile 
of buildings, founded by De Vallier, second bishop of Quebec (in 1693), 
and conducted by 40 -50 nuns of St. Augustine. The churches of St. 
Sauveur {in the Banlieu) and *S^. Roch are large structures, with many 
inferior pictures, and the Black Nunnery is near the latter, St. Roch's 
Ward is mostly devoted to manufactories and to shipbuilding (on the St. 
Cliarles shore). St. Paul St. runs E. between the fortified cliffs and the 
river, to St. Peter St., wliicli turns S., and near which are the chief banks, 
wholesale houses, and harbor offices. At the neighboring wharves are the 
ships and ocean-steamers, with many small and dirty steamboats whicli 
ply to the neighboring river-towns. The Custom House (near Pointe a 
Garcy) and the Champlain Market are in this quarter, and are fine stone 



CAP ROUGE. Route 56. 383 

buildings. Tlie Church of Notre Dame des Victoii'es is a plain old struc> 
ture near the market, which dates from before 1690. It was so named, 
and was decorated with trophies, in gratitude for the defeat of Sir Wni. 
rhipps' attack in 1C90, and the terrible disaster to Admiral Walker s ex- 
pedition at the Egg Islands. The Queen's Fuel Yard is below the Palace 
Gate, and occupies the site of an immense range of buildings erected by- 
Bigot, 13th and last Royal (French) Intendant. Here he lived in all the 
feudal splendor of the old French noblesse, on the revenues which he ex' 
torted from the oppressed province. In 1775 the palace was captured by 
Arnold's Virginia riflemen, who so greatly annoyed the garrison that tho 
buildings were set on fire and consumed by shells from the batteries of 
the Upper Town. 



Environs of Quebec. 

Point Levi is across the river from Quebec, and is a rapidly growing 
place, where the Grand Trunk Railway terminates. Upon the steep 
bluffs are two neat churches, and a short distance to the E. is a series of 
powerful earthw(jrks, intended to prevent the establishment of hostile 
batteries within shelling distance of Quebec. 10 M. from Point Levi are 
the * Falls of the Chaudiere, where that river dashes, in a sheet 850 ft. wide, 
down a precipice 135 ft. high. The Chaudiere descends from Lake Me- 
gantic, near the Maine frontier, passing through the Canadian gold-fields. 
Arnold's hungry and heroic army followed the course of this river from 
its source to its mouth. (See page 313). 

Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the Grande 
Allee, passing out of the St. Louis Gate. The road leads by the Canada 
Military Asylum, Parliament House, and the jail, and near the toll- 
gate (on the 1.) is seen a monument inscribed, "Here died Wolfe, Vic- 
torious." The scene of the Battle of the Plains is on either hand, and the 
Plains of Abraham stretch away to the S. There are four Martello Towers 
on the neighboring fields, each built in a circular form and of heavy 
masonry, while the massive stone jail, being provided with long lines of 
loopholes, is an efficient outwork. About 2 M. out, the Mount Herman 
Cevietery is passed, with the elegant Chapel of St. Michael, and the 
whole distance between the city and Cap Rouge is lined with fine old 
villas of the noblesse and gentry of Lower Canada. Redclyffe Mansion is 
on the cape, near where Roberval wintered in 1541, and in the same 
vicinity batteries were erected by Montcalm and Murray. In returning 
to the city, it is best to turn to the 1. at St. Albans, and gain the Ste. Foy 
road. The broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles is overlooked from 
this road, and Lorette may be seen in the distance. As the city is nearly 



384 Route 56. FALLS OF MONTMORENCL 

approached, on the \. is seen a moniimental colnnin surmounted "by a statue 
of Bellona (presented by Prince Napoleon), which marks tlie site of the 
fiercest part of the Second Battle of the Plains, when De Levis defeated 
Murray (1759). The monument was dedicated with great pomp in 1854, 
and stands over the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fip'ht. Pass- 
ing now the handsome Finlay Asylum and several villas, the suburb of 
St. Jolm is entered. 

Indian Lorette is 9 M, from Quebec, by the Little River Road. It is 
an ancient village of the Hurons (" Catholics and allies of France "), and 
the present inhabitants are a quiet and religious people in whom the 
Indian blood predominates, though it is never unmixed. The men himt 
and tish, the women make bead-work and moccasins, and the boys earn 
pennies by dexterous archery. Tlie Lorette Falls, near the village, are 
vci-y pretty, and a few miles farther inland are tlie Lakes of Beauport 
and St. Charles. The latter is 4 ]\I. long, and is famed for its red trout 
and for its remarkable echoes. 

Charleshourg, 4 M. from Quebec, is an ancient village, with two 
Catholic churches, situated on a pleasant and picturesque road. In the 
vicinity is the Hermitage, or Chateau Bigot, a gray and romantic ruin at 
the foot of Mt. des Ormes, where Bigot, the last intendant of Canada, 
kept and visited a lovely Algonquin girl, until his wife discovered the 
secret, and soon thereafter the Indian maiden was cruelly murdered. 

Tlie * * Falls of Montmorenci are about 8 M. from the city, by a road 
which crosses the St. Charles River, passes several fine old mansions, and 
traverses the long, straggling village of Beauport, with its stately church 
and roadside crosses. The falls are 250 ft. high and 50 ft. wide, — a solid 
and compact mass of water incessantly plunging over a precipice of black 
rock, with clouds of mist and a deafening roar. The Montmorenci flows 
into the St. Lawrence a short distance below. Near the falls is Haldi- 
mand House, formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's 
father; and on the cliffs T)y the river are seen the towers of a suspension 
bridge which fell soon after its erection, hnrling three persons into the 
fatal abyss below. A small fee is charged for entering the fields to view 
the falls, and the tourist must be careful, not only to visit the pavilion 
near the falls (which commands also a chamiiiig view of Quebec), but to 
insist on being conducted to a position low down on the shore, from which 
the stupendous plunge of the Montmorenci may best be seen. About 1^ 
M. above the falls are the Natural Steps, where the river has cut the 
ledges into a similitude to steps, meanwhile contracting its channel. The 
views on the road back to Quebec are very beautiful. At the foot of 
these falls an immense ice-cone (sometimes 200 ft. high) is formed every 
winter, and here the favorite sport of tobogginning is carried on. 

Ste. Anne is 24 M. below Quebec (tri-weekly steamers), and has a small 



THE SAGUENAY RIVER. Route 56. 385 

inn. 6-7 M. from the inn are the beautiful Falls of Ste. Anne, below 
■which the river of the same name dashes down through a dark and sombre 
ravine. Tlie Falls of St. Fereol, the Seven Falls, and other remarkable 
objects, are in this vicinity, while just W. of the village is Mt. Ste, Anne, 
a picturesque summit 2,t)87 ft. high. Lake St, Joachin is a few miles 
distant and abounds in trout, while 6-8 M, below is the bold niountain- 
jiromontory called Cap Tourmente. Within the village is the beautiful 
little pilgrimage-church of Ste. Anne, where it is said that many surpris- 
ing miracles have been wrought by relics of La Bonne Ste, Anne (which 
are kept in a crystal globe). Crutches and other helpers of the sick and 
deformed are hung upon the walls of the sacristy, their owners having 
been made whole, while numerous rude votive pictures adorn the chapels. 
Chateau Richer is S, of Ste, Anne, and has the ruins of a Franciscan 
monastery on a bold point over the river. This monastery was built hi 
1695, and was so sturdily defended against Gen. Wolfe (even the monks 
fought) that he was obliged to destroy it by cannonading. From the 
parish-church, near the ruins, beautiful views are gained of L'Ange 
Gardien, Cape Diamond, and the Isle of Orleans, " the Garden of Lower 
Canada," This isle is 20 M. long and 5-6 M. wide, and is famed for its 
rich soil. Cartier, in 1535, named it tlie Isle of Bacchus, and m 167G it 
was made into the Earldom of St. Laurent. 

The Saguenay River (Tadousac) is 134 M. from Quebec, and 
steamers run send-weekly. Below the St, Marguerite Islands (of which 
Goose and Crane are the largest), the St, Lawrence attains and keeps a 
width of about 20 M, with 18 ft, tides, and with seals, porpoises, and 
whales playing in tlie cletir salt water. The Isle of Orleans is passed on 
the N., and the quarantine stations on Grosse Isle are seen, near the vast 
promontory of Cap Tourmente, Tlie Isle aux Coudres has a population 
more purely Norman in its blood and habits than any other in Canada. 
Ste. Anne, on the S. E. shore, has a Catholic College (Frencli), and 
Malhaie (Murray Bay), 80 M, from Quebec, is a favorite summer-resort 
for the better classes of the French Canadians, The steamer crosses to 
Riviere du Lnuj), the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway on the E. ; 
6 M, from which is Cacouna (St, Lawrence Hall, &c,), the Newport of 
Canada, where thousands of visitors enjoy sea-bathing during the heats 
of sunmier. Tri-weekly stages run from Riviere du Loiip to the Grand 
Falls of the St. Jolm River, whence stages connect with route 49 (see 
page 323), The steamer now crosses the wide river to Tadousac (large 
summer-hotel), a post of the Hudson's Bay Company at the month of the 
Saguenay River, Tadousac was early fortified by the French ; it was the 
residence of Pere Marquette, who explored the Mississippi Valley; and it 
now has a venerable Catholic church, which is said to be more than 2^ 
centuries old. The vast canon. Ihrough which the Saguenay rolls its black 
17 Y 



386 Route 56. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 

waters is now entered, and lofty peaks and palisades tower on either side. 
After passing La Bouia and the Profiles, 34 M. above Tadousac, the 
majestic * Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity rise on the S, to the height 
of 2,000 ft. eacli, guarding the entrance to Trinity Bay. The water at 
the base of these peaks is over 600 fathoms deep.i 

" Suddenly the boat rounded the corner of the three steps, each 500 ft. high, in 
which Cape Eternity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side' of 
the awful clilf It is sheer rock, springing froui the black water, and stretcliino- 
upward with a wearj', effort-like aspect, iu loug impulses of stone marked l>y deep 
seams from space to space, till, 1,5UU ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward, and 

fiowuswitliascatteniig fringe of pines The rock inllyjustities its attributive 

lieight to tlie eye, which follows the upward rusli of the mighty acclivity, steep 
after steep, till it wins tlie cloud-capt sunuiiit, wlien the measureless mass seems 
to swing and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that 
besets hnn who looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly 
grim and stern ; no touch of beauty relieves tlie austere 'majesty of that presence. 
At the foot of Cajie Eternity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a 
black expanse, in the rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and 
desolation, and issues again in its river's course around the base of Cape Trinity. 
This is yet loftier than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the 
stream, and from foot to crest it is heavily clothed with a forest of i)ines. The 
woods that hitherto have shagged the hills witli a stunted and meagre growth, 
showing long stretches scarred by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble 
themselves compactly upon the side of the mountain, setting their serried stems 
one rank above another, till the summit is crowned with the mass of their dark 
green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful ; so that the spirit, perturbed by the 
spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and assuaged by the serene grandeur of this." 
^ From W. D. Howells's A Chance Acquaintance. 

Statue Point and Les Tableaux are next passed, and then Ha Ha Bay 
is reached, witli its two small villages, 35-40 M. above which is 
CMcoutwii, at the head of ship navigation. 60 M. farther W., in the 
bosom of a vast and desolate wilderness, is the reservoir of the Sagnenay, 
the great Lake of St. John. 

From Quebec to Springfield, Hartford, New Haven, and New York, 
see Route 24. From Quebec to Boston, by Lake Memphrenmgog, White 
River Junction, and Concord, see Routes 24 and 29 ; to Boston, by way of 
Gorham, Portland, and the sea-shore, see Routes 40 and 37 ; or by way of 
Gorham, Portland, and Lawrence, see Routes 40 and 3S. 

1 In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has been given to tiie 
N. ca]>e, and Trinity to tlie f)ther. This is not correct, for tlie N. cape; was 
named La Trinite by tlie .Jesuits, on account of its union of three vast sections 
into one mountain. " It is known by that name among the old pilots and river- 
peojtle. 



SCHENECTADY. JRoute 57. 387 



57. Boston to Niagara Falls. 

By the Boston & Albany R. R. and the N. Y. Central & Hudson River R. R. in 
b07^ M. Fare, $11.85 ; fare by Pullman parlor-cars to Rochester (where the lii'st 
and only change of cais occurs', $2.25 extra. 

This route has long formed one of the favorite excursions from New England, 
and passes througli a fine diversity of scenery. The densely populated Eastern 
counties of Mass. are su(-.ceeded by the rich agricultural lands of Worcester Coun- 
ty ; and the chief inland cities of the Bay Stale — Worcester, ypringheld, and 
Pittsheld — are passed in succession. Beyond the jiicturesque scenery of the Berk- 
shire Hills, the line descends into the fair Hudson River valley, and crosses the 
broad Hudson ;it Albany. 

Chiief Stations. — Boston; S. Framingham, 21 M. ; Worcester, 44; W. 
Brookheld, (i-.t ; ralmer, S3 ; Springfield, OS ; We.sthcld, 108 ; Chester, 12G ; Pitts- 
field, 151 ; Cliiilham, 177 ; Albany, 202. N. Y. Central R. R. — Albany ; Schenec- 
tady, 219 M. (lYoni Boston) ; Amsterdam, 2o5 ; Fort Plain, 260 ; Little Falls, 275^- ; 
Utica, 297; Rome, 311 ; Oneida, 324 ; Syracuse, 350J ; Weedsport, 371 ; Palmyra, 
40Si : Rochester, 430^^ ; Speneerport, 440 ; Holley, 453 ; Medina, 471 ; Gasport, 
481 ; Lockport, 487 ; Suspension Bridge, 50G ; Niagara Falls, 5072-. 

For a description of the route from Boston to Springfield, see Eoute 24 
(page 124); and from Springfield to Albany, see Route 22 (page 141). 
Albany, see page 348. The routes and cities between Albany and Niagara 
Falls, and thence to Montreal, are more fully described in Osgood's Mid- 
dle-States Hand-Book, pages 152 to 214 inclusive (with maps of Rochester, 
Buff"alo, Niagara Falls, Toronto, Ottawa, and Montreal). 

The N. Y. Central R. R. " traverses the garden of N. Y. State, rich in 
agricultural and industrial resources, and teeming with a lai'ge poj^ula- 
tion. " Beyond the great cattle-yards of W. Albany the train reaches the 
Mohawk River and the city of Solienectady {Given' s Hotel), a quaint old 
place, with 14,000 inhabitaiits and large iron-works. It was founded in 
1662, and was destroyed by tlie Frencli in 1690, after a terrible massacre 
of the citizens. On the r. are seen the buildings of Union University 
(formerly Union College), an old and richly endowed institution over 
which Eliphalet Nott presided from 1804 luitil 1866. Beyond the alluvial 
plains of Glenville the train reaches AmsterdctDi (Arnold House), a thriv- 
ing factory- village of 10, 000 inhabitants, situated in a fertile country. 

Tribes' Hill was the council-ground of the valiant Mohawks, who aided the 
early Engiisli and Dutch settlers, and waged sanguinary v/ar against the French, 
even to the extent of destroying Montreal. In this vicinity were the mansions of 
the powerful .Johnson family, whose influence over the Indians was almost bound- 
less. Sir William Johnson commanded tlie forces at tlie Battle of Lake George 
(see page 35G) ; and Sir John declared against America at the outbi'eak of the 
Revolution, and led his tenantry and Indian allies in destructive raids through 
Central New York. 

Fonda {Fonda Hotel) is a pleasant village of Dutch origin, and is the 
capital of Montgomery County. A branch railroad runs thence 10 M. N. 
by Johnstown to Gloversville, which is failious for its glove-manufactories. 
The train passes the high hills called The Noses, and at Palatine Bridge 
(settled by Palatine Germans in 1713) the pretty hamlet of Canajohaiio 



388 Routes?. Tr.EXTON FALLS. , 

is seen on tlie 1. bank of the Mohawk. Daily stages ntn thence 12 M. S. 
to the favorite summer-resort of Sharon Springs {" the Baden Baden of 
America"). Fort Plain (Union Hal!) is a large village in the centre of a 
district which is rich in the history and legends of the old Avars. After 
crossing the E. Canada Creek the line traverses the Manheim intervales 
and reaches Little Falls {Benton House), a busy factory village pictiir- 
es(iiiely Imilt in tlie narrow gorge where the rapi<l Mohawk breaks through 
a locky rislge 5 - GOO ft. high. Great quantities of rich cheese are for- 
Avarded from this point, and also from the next station, Herkimer (the 
capital of Herkimer County). Ilion is tlie seat of the Remington rifle- 
factory, where large armaments have been made for Egypt, Japan, Rome, 
Denmark, Spain, Sweden, and the S. American repuldics. During 7 
n)onths of the Franco-Prussian War the works ran night and day, and 
made 15r),000 rifles for France. Crossing the Mohawk River the train 
reaclK^s Utica (* Battcrjield House ; Bagcjs' Hotel), a thriving city of 
30,000 inhabitants, with 31 churches, 5 banks, and 3 daily papers. There 
is a large Welsh and German population here; and the manufactures of 
the city are manifold and lucrative. In the W. suburb are the imposing 
buildings of the State Insane Asylum. 

* Trenton Falls {* Moure's Trenton Falls Hotel) are 17 M. N. W. of 
Utica Ijy the Utica & Black River R. R. (hi 40 nun. ; fare, 75c.), and are 
of rare and picturescpie beauty. They are formed by the W. Canada 
Creek, whicli here descends in a profound limestone ravine, and have a 
singular appearance by reason of the amber color of the water. Tlie hotel 
and falls are 1 M. from the station (carriages, 50c.). The Sherman Falls 
are the first approached, and 800 ft. beyond are the * High Fcdls, the 
finest point in the series. Above this place is the great romantic rock- 
hall called the Alhambra ; and still fai'ther \ip the creek is the Prospect 
Fall. The railroad runs N. from Trenton Falls to BoonviUe and Lovjville, 
the favorite entrances to John Brown's Tract (see Osgood's J/iVZtZZe States^ 
page 1-.^,)- • 

Siclifield Sprir-^jG (* Sjjring House ; American) is reached from Utica 
by the D., L. & W. R. R. in 35 M., and is one of the chief summer resorts 
of Central N. Y. The sulphur-waters of Richfield are unpleasant to the 
taste, l)ut are very efficacious in ameliorating cutaneous disorders. The 
village is pleasantly situated in Otsego County, near Schuyler Lake and 
Otsego Lake, the home of Cooper (see O.sgood's Middle States, page 323), 
and has summer quarters for 2,500 guests. 

Beyond Whitesboro' and Oriskany the train enters the city of Rome 
{Stanwix Hall ; American), a manufacturing centre with 11,000 inhabi- 
tants, at the confluence of the Erie and the Black River Canals. Rome is 
on the site of Fort Stanwix, which sustained an heroic siege in 1777; and 
to the E. occurred the L.tal battle of Oriskany, where th.e valley militia 



ROCHESTER. Route 57, 389 

were ambuscaded by the Indians and suffered heavy losses. Stations, 
Verona, near the Verona Springs, and N. of the Oneida Reservation ; 
Oneida (Eagle Hotel), at the crossing of the Midland R. R., and just N. 
of the Oneida Community ; Canastota, celebrated for its manufacture of 
delicate pliilosophical instruments ; and Chittenango, where many sum- 
mer visitors sojourn in order to avail themselves of the celebrated mag- 
nesia and sulphur waters (White Sulphur Springs Hotel). 

Syracuse (* 6r^o&e Hotel; Vanderhiit House) is midway between Al- 
bany and Buffalo, and is situated at the foot of Onondaga Lake. It has 
54,122 inhabitants, 40 churches, and 9 banks; and is the seat of exten- 
sive manufactures. On the heights to the S. are the spacious new build- 
ings of the Syracuse University, a well-endowed Methodist institution ; and 
fine views of the city and lake are enjoyed from their vicinity. The Salt 
Springs are N. W. of Syracuse, near the shore of tlie lake, and are worthy 
of notice. There are 24 wells of brine (from immense subterranean de- 
posits of rock-salt) belonging to the State, and yielding 8-9,000,000 
bushels of salt yearly. Onondaga Lake is a narrow and unattractive 
elieet 6 M. long and 361 ft. above the sea. Its history is full of interest 
ftnd is diversitied with the adventures of the French, Spanish, English, 
and Onondaga sojourners in this region. Beyond Syracuse the train 
crosses Wayne County, famous for its peppermint; and from Lyons {Con- 
gress Hall) 100,000 pounds of peppermint oil are shipped yearly. Near 
Palmyra arose tlie sects of tlie Mormons and Spiritualists, so extensively 
known in recent times. 

Rochester {*Osburn House; Brackett Hotel; Congress Hall) is a 
handsome modern city of 90,000 inhabitants, favorably situated on the 
Genesee River. It is called the " Flour City " on account of its flour- 
niills, which are the largest in the world (having an annual capacity 
of 1,000,000 barrels); and also the "Flower City," by reason of its im- 
mense nurseries covering thousands of acres with masses of brilliant 
flowers (fruits and plants to the value of ^2,500,000 are exported hence 
annually). The * Poioers Buildings are the finest commercial buildings 
between New York and Chicago, and contain a large gallery of average 
American paintings. From the tower (175 ft. high) on their top is gained 
a line view of the city and the lake. Near the Powers Buildings are the 
fine structures of the City Hall, Court House, and High School. The 
University of Rochester has new stone buildings fronting across a verdant 
campus on University Ave. ; and its geological cabinets are the best in the 
U. S. This institiition pertains to the Baptist Church ; and the same sect 
controls the Rochester Theological Seminary, whose rich library (15,000 
volumes) includes the library of Neander, the German churcli-historian. 
1 M. N. of the city are the extensive buildings of the Western House of 
Refuge, for the reformation of youthful criminals. The Erie Canal crosses 



390 Route 58. NIAGAr.A FALLS. 

tlie Genesee (near tlie Buffalo St. Bridge) on a fine aqneduct of cut stone 
which cost S 600,000. The * Mount Hojk Cemetery is a beautiful and at- 
tractive burying-ground S. of the city, near the river; and has picturesque 
liills and groves, and a far- viewing observatory-tower. The Genesee Falls 
are within the city, and are interesting in an industrial point of view. 
The upper fall has 96 ft. of depth, and is jucturesque in higli water. The 
great water-power dei'ived from this fall gives Rochester its importance 
as a manufacturing city. The middle falls are 1^ M. below, and are 25 
ft. deep; while the lower falls descend 84 ft., and are the most pic- 
turesque of the series. Steamboats run from the lower falls (and trains 
from the R. R. station) to Charlotte, the i)ort of Rochester, pleasantly 
situated on Lake Ontario, 7 M. distant. 

The Niagara train runs W. from Rochester along the line of the Erie 
Canal, passing Brockport, famous for its large State Normal School ; 
Holley, near salt-springs ; A Ibion, the capital of Orleans County, with a 
high dome on the Court House; Medina, enriched by prolific quarries of 
red sandstone; and Lockport (Judson House), a city of 15,000 inhabi- 
tants, surrounded by a fine agricultural country, and made active by nu- 
merous manufactories. On the 1. from the train are seen the 10 massive 
locks which give the city its name, and by whose aid the Erie Canal as- 
cends 66 ft. from the Genesee Level to the Erie Level. The train passes 
on rapidly over a wide rural district, and soon reaches Suspension Bridge 
and Niagara Falls. 

58. Niagara Falls. 

Hotels. — * Cataract House, and Intcniational Hotel, each 84.50 a day, lo- 
cated near the Raijids. Siieiieer House, ()i)i»osite tlie station, open all the year 
($3.50 a (lay) ; i'ark Plaec Hotel. On the Canadian sliore is tlie * Clifton House, 
$3.50 a day (U. S. money) ; also the Victoria Hall, on the heights above Clifton. 
The Cli ton coininands the liiiest view of the Falls. The Moiiteagle Hotel is at 
Susiieiision Bridge (.-#12-15 a week)- 

Carriages. — The luieknien of Niagara have been a source of continual annoy- 
ance to visitors by tlieir importunity and extoi'tion. They may easily l.e sliaKeu 
off by a prompt and lirm refusal : and gentlemen who wisli to ride \vit)i theiK 
should make an ex])lieit verbal contract before starting, —in whicli the i>Iaces to 
be visited, tlie time to be taken, and tlie compensation should be diiitiuctly 
understood by both parties. Tlicre is tlien ])at little danger of trouble. Tlie 
toll.5 on the bridges and roads are paid by the touri.-^t. No reliance sliould bo 
].l,ice(l on the hackman's stiitement of distances. The tarilf for carriages is y 2 aa 
hour, but s]ieci:il contracts maybe made at lower rates ior visiting speciliel points. 
Tliese r;ites varv witli the men", t!ie season, and tlie size of the party. A buggy 
and driver may'lic hired for ^'o a day. The trip on the Canadian side includes the, 
Tabh' Uock, the l^uniing S]iriiig, Lundy's Lane, tlie lower Suspension Bridge, and 
the Whirljiool (and sometimes Brock's monument on Que<;nston Heiglits). Tiieie 
is but little need of a carriage on the Amcri'-an shore urdess Niagara City is 
visited, —Goat Island and Prosjiect Park being more easily and ]>leasantly trav- 
erseil on foot. A carriage and span may be hired (outside the hotels) for sp) a 
(1 :y to cirry -l-.") iH'isons to all points of interest on both shores. — incbidiiig 
the Suspension Bi idgo and Queenston Heights. Tolls and entranco-fees ai'c not 
in -luded in this lu-ice. Guides may be obtained in the village, but tucre is no 
li.-ced tariff. 



NIAGARA FALLS. Route 5S. 391 

Shops for t!ie sale of bead-work, baskets, fans, photographs, minerals, spar 
and agate jewelry, etc., abound in various parts of the village. Many of these 
aitiiles are mauufartured by tlie Tuscarora Indians, v^iio live on a reservation 7 
M. distant. Indian si^uaws are seen at diilerent points selling these wares, which 
are generally pretty and inexpensive. 

The extortions at Niagara have become worM-famed, and are much exaggerated. 
It is true tliat the tourist is called \\\n)u to pay at nearly every step in the vicinity 
of the Falls (on the American side), but then he is continually using facilities 
and improvements which have cost large amounts of mouey and are only remu- 
nerative for a few months in the year. Tiie Falls and their surroundings are fre- 
quently "done" by ]!arties in a single day ; and as juany rare and curious olyects 
ai-e seen as would be found in weeks of ordinary travel. The i)aynient nuist be in 
some degree commensurate. Tourists who reiuain several days or weelcs at Ni- 
agara can avail tliemselves of season-tickets to various jioints at low rates, and 
their expenses need be no greaier than they would be at New York or Newport. 
Much of the exti-a expense at Niagara is due to t!ie fact that the majority of tour- 
ists here indulge in luxuries wliich are neither necessary nor custcnnary. Nowhere 
are carriages so needless as here, since tlie distances are short and the roads ai-e 
nnraistakable. A gentleman travelling en gar(;on may speiid 2 days here ior less 
than .$10, by avoiding some of the less interesting (yet always expensive) locali- 
ties ; by being satislied with comfm'table, instead of luxurious, hotel-acconnnoda- 
tions ; and by walking, as he would at home. Arriving at the Falls in the morn- 
ing, the day should be devoted to the American side and principally to Goat 
Island (good diuiug-saloon in the village). Cn)s ing to the Canadian shore at 
evening, the second day sliould be given to that side. 

"It was not until 1 came on Table Rock, and looked — Great Heaven— on 
what a fall of bright green water! — that it came upon me in its full might and 
majesty. Then, when I felt how near to my Creatt>r 1 was standing, the fli'st 
etlect, and the enduring one — instant and lasting — of the tremendous sjiectacle 
was Peace. Peace of Mind — Trampiillity — calm recollectiuus of the Dead: 
Great Thoughts of Eternal Rest and Plappiness — nothing of Gloom or Terror. 
Niagara was at once stam]icd uifon my heart, an Ivjiage of Beauty to remain tliere 

changeless and indelible until its jiulses cease to beat forever I think iu 

every quiet season now, still do those waters roll and le;ip, and roar and tumble 
all day long ; still are the rainbows spanning them a hundred feet below, ytill, 
when the sun is on tliem, do they shine and glow like molten gold. Still, when 
the day is gloomy, do tliey fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the trout 
of a great chalk cliff, or roll down the rocic lilce dense wliite smoke. But always 
does the mighty stream seem to die as it comes down, a;id always from the un- 
fathomable gulf rises that trememlous ghost of spray and mist wluch is never 
laid, which has haunted ttiis place with tlie same dreail solemnity since darkness 
brooded on the deep, and that lirst flood before the deluge — Light — came rush- 
ing on creation at the ^yord of God." (Dickens.) 

Niagara Falls are sitttated on tlie Niagara River, 22^ M. from Lake 
Erie, and 13^ M. from Lake Ontario. The river is the outlet of the great 
lakes of the West, and has a width of aljout 4,000 ft. at this point. It is 
held by scientists that the Falls formerly occupied a position near Lewis- 
ton, but have receded to their present location in about 30,000 years, by 
wearing out the ledges with incessant beating. Remarkable displays of 
ice-cones and icicles are witnessed here in winter; and in 1818 the Falls 
were nearly di-ied up by reason of an ice-dam which held back the river 
at the efflux from Lake Erie. 

*Goat Island (entrance, 50c.; season-ticket, $1) is 5 min. walk from 
the R. R. station, and is reached by an iron carriage-bridge IGO ft. long, 
wlience is gained a fine view of the wliite and turbulent Rai)ids, which 
fall 51 ft. iu a course of | M., and attain a velocity of 30 M. an hour, — 



302 Route 5S. NIAGARA FALLS. 

''like a battle-charge of tempestuous waves, animaterl aud infuriated 
against tlie sky." Beyond Bdh Island (witli the Tribune Paper Mills) 
the road reaches Goat Island, wliose sequestered groves are the goal of 
"that great circle of newly wedded bliss, which, involving the whole land 
during the season of bridal tours, may be said to show richest and fairest 
at Niagara, like the costly jewel of a precious ring " (see Howells's " Their 
Wedding Journey "). The path to the r. from the bridge leads (in 5 min.) 
to tlie foot of the island and the verge of the * Centre Falls, whence a 
foot-bridge conducts to Lima Island, a rocky islet between the Centre 
and American Falls. The * American Fall stretches away from Luna 
Island for 1,200 ft., with a perpendicular plunge of 164 ft. ; and the visi- 
tor can stand within a span of its curve. Fine lunar bows are seen here 
on niglits when the moon is full. At this end of Goat Island is a stairway 
leading to the level of the river below the Falls. Guides and water-proof 
clothing are here furnished ($1.50) for persons who wish to enter the 
Cave of the Wlnds^ a damp grotto, whose W. side is formed by the blue 
water of the massive Centre Fall. Double and triple concentric circular 
rainbows may be seen in this vicinity on a bright afternoon. The road on 
tlie summit of the cliff passes the bridges to the islet on which stood the 
Terrapin Tower. The * * view of the Horse-Shoe Fall from this point is 
one of the grandest about Niagara. The width of the Fall is nearly 2,100 
ft., witli a height of 158 ft. (6 ft. less than the American Fall). IS ear its 
centre is the smooth dark-green current which marks the deepest water 
of the Falls, — over 20 ft. 

The term " Canadian Fall " is often applied to the waters W. of Goat Island, bul 
it is inexact, since the national boundary passes down tlie centre of the Horse- 
yiioe, leaving fully half ol' the W. Falls iu the domain of the Ilepublic. The out- 
line of this Fall has been so changed that the liorseshoe curve is less apjiarent 
tlian formerly. In reeent years large sections of the adjacent clilfs <if Goat island 
have fallen into the abyss below, aud Gull Ishmd, near tlie curve of the Falls, has 
been washed away. In 1S27 the condemned ship Michigan was sent over the 
Horse-Shoe Falls witli a cargo of animals, one of which, a sagacious bear, deserted 
the ship in the midst of the rapids, and swam ashore. In ISIO a salt-boat sunk 
off Chippewa, aud 3 of the crew were carried over the Falls; in 1821, a scow ar-l 
2 men went over; in 1S25, 5 more, 3 of v/hom were in canoes ; in 1841, a sand 
scow and 2 men, and 2 smugglers ; in 1847, a young boy, who tried to row across 
above; in 1848, two children were playing in a skirt, when it got loose, — the 
mother, Avading out, saved one, but the other was swejit over, grasjiing the beat 
(in each side. In 1871, S strangers tried to row across far al)0ve, but the current 
(bewtheni in, and carried them down ; and in 1873, a newly married couple, while 
rowing about near Chippewa, were drawn into the central current, and passed 
over tlie Falls in each tither's arms. Many other disasters have occurred above 
anil below the Falls, as if to verity the Indian tradition that Niagara demands 2 
victiiiis yearly. Two bull-terrier dogs have made the plunge over the American 
Falls without harm. One of them lived all winter on a dead cow which it found 
on the rocks Itelow ; and the other trt>tted up the ferry-stairs, very much aston- 
ished and grieved, within an hour from the time when he was thrown from Goat 
Ishmd Bridge. 

The * Three Sisters are rugged and romantic islets S. W. of Goat 
Island, aud are reached by 3 pretty suspension-bridges connected with the 



NIAGAEA FALLS. Rmie 5S. 393 

road leading from Terrapin Bridge. Tliey afford the best * view of the 
Rapids at tlic^ir widest, deepest, and most tumultuous part, where the 
base of their licaviest whirl is wreathed witli mist. A light bridge leads 
to another picturesque islet near the third Sister. "The Three Sisters 
are mere fragments of wilderness, clumps of vine-tangled woods, planted 
upon masses of rock; but they are parts of the fascination of Niagara 
which no one resists." 

From the head of Goat Island, 1 M. up the river, is seen the white house which 
stands on tli« site of I'uit 8chlosser, near which, at tlie mouth of Caj'uga Cruek, 
Father Hennepin and La Salle spent the winter and spring of 1678-70. They 
built here a GO-ton vessel, the Griffin, and sailed up the great lakes to Green Bay 
(Wisconsin). Fort du Portage was afterward erected at Schlosser, and was taken 
by tliB English in 1759, aftt-r a siege, in which the French garrison destroyed their 
armed store-ships in Burnt Ship Bay. On Kavi! Island (near Schlosser)the Cana- 
dian insurgents of lSo7 had their head-quarters, and connnunicated with the 
American shore by the steamer Carolhie. A Britisli force 1)oarded the Caroline 
by night, and after a short struggle lieat off tlie crew. The vessel was then set on 
lire, and drifted down, blazing througli the darkness, to the cascades below Goat 
Island, where she went to pieces (some say that she plunged over the Falls in a 
mass of flame). Col. Allan McNab, who ordered tins attack, was soon afterwards 
knigiited. Grand Island is above Navy Island, and is 12 M. long and 2-7 M. wide 
(containing 17,240 acres). In 1820 Mordecai M. No:',h emleavored to make this 
island a home for the scattered Helirews througiiout the wtn-ld. After much 
legislation and wide correspondence with his comjiatriots, he put up a monument 
on the island, inscribed, "Ararat, a city of refuge for the Jews," etc. But the 
European Raltbins denounced the movement, and the project was abandoned. 

* Prospect Park entrance, 20c. ; season-ticket, 50c. ; entrance and 
ferriage over and back, 50c.) is on the mainland, by the side of the 
American Fall. Its chief point of interest is a platform, inwalled by a 
low parapet, on the very verge of the Fall, whence the deep abyss and the 
broad curve of the waters may be observed in security. A railway 360 
ft. long, and inclined at an angle of 33°, leads from the Park to the river 
below. Tlie cars are drawn by an endless cable, which is worked by 
water-power. Paths lead from the base of the cliff into the spray toward 
the Falls ; also to Point View, and to 2 small caverns nearly 1 M. distant 
(the path is rugged and dangerous). Near the foot of the railway the 
tourist enters a large rowboat, which is tossed about as if on a stormy sea 
by the tumultuous waters. The * view of the Falls from mid-stream (or 
^ of the way across) is awe-inspiring, and gives the full idea of their great 
height, wlui'h is not obtained from the banks above. This ferry was es- 
tablislied in 1825, and no accident has ever occurred on it. The passage 
of the river takes 10 niin., and the depth of the water on the line of transit 
is 180 ft. A road ^ M. long leads from the landing to the top of the cliff, 
near the Clifton House (carriages are in waiting). 

The *New Suspension Bridge {'2'ic. for pedestrians) is G-SOO ft. be- 
low the Falls, of wlucli it gives a grand panoramic * view " from the be- 
ginnmg of the American Fall to the farthest limit of the Horse-Shoe, with 
all the awful pom]) of the Ptapids, the solemn darkness of the wooded 
17* 



394 Route 58. NIAGARA FALLS. 

islands, the mystery of the vaporous giilf, the indomitable wildness of the 

shores, as far as the qjq can reach up or down the fatal stream 

Of all the bridges made with hands it seems the lightest, most ethereal ; 
it is ideally graceful, and droops from its slight towers like a garland. " 
That " apotheosis of industry," the white and slender fall called the 
Bridal Veil, is seen on the American shore, and is the end of " a poor 
but respectable mill-race which has devoted itself strictly, to business, and 
has turned mill-wheels instead of fooling around water-lilies. It can afford 
tliat \iltimate finery." The bridge was finished in 1869, at a cost of 
$ 175,000, and is the longest suspension-ljridge in the world, being 1,190 
ft. from cliff to cliff, and 1,268 ft from tower to tower. The American 
tower (10c. for the ascent) is 100 ft. higli; and the Canadian tower 
(ascended by an elevator; 25c.) is 105 ft. high, and commands a noble 
* view of the Falls and the great ravine. The terminus is near the Clifton 
House, a spacious first-class hotel which faces the entire range of the 
Falls. Passing from the Clifton House toward the Falls, a continuous 
and majestic prospect is afforded. The Museum (50e.) is soon approached. 
It contains collections of coins, minerals, Egyptian relics and mummies, 
casts from Ninevite sculptures, a line of grotesque wax figures, and an 
extensive array of stuffed birds and animals arranged in a forest-scene. 
There is a pleasant prospect from the upper balconies, and in the hall 
below is a large salesroom for bijouterie characteristic of Niagara. Live 
buffaloes are kept in the yard. Oil-cloth suits and guides are furnished 
here (§ 1) for the passage under the Horse-Shoe Fall. Termination Rock 
is reached near the edge of the Fall, and visitors, blinded by the spray, 
and deafened by the roaring of the waters, will be satisfied to return 
speedily. 300 ft. above the Museum is Table Rock, from which is given 
the grandest front * * view of the entire Falls ; and time should be un- 
limited at this point. 

In 1850 a section of this ledfje, 200 X 60 ft., and 100 ft. tliick, broke aMMy, and 
plunged into the chasm below with a tremendous roar An onmibus wiiicli was 
standing ni)on it went down also, and was shivered to atoms, the driver I'arely 
e:-ifapiiig by the warning of the splitting rocks. The renMuning part of Tal)le 
Rock is thought to be destined to remain Arm, as tliere is but little overhang; 
although a crack 125 ft. long and 60 ft. deep was left when the great crash took 
place. 

The * Burning Spring is 2 M. above Table Rock, and should be ap- 
proached by the river-road, which affords a fine view of the Great Ox-Bow 
Rapids and the broad river above. Just above is the fine mansion and 
park formerly owned by Mr. Street, a retired bachelor and fervid lover of 
Nature, who won the ill-will of the inhabitants of this section and the 
gratitude of all tourists by refusing to allow mills to be erected on his 
wide riverward domains. The Burning Spring (40c. admission) is highly 
charged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which burns with an intermit- 



NIAGARA FALLS. Route 5S. 395 

tent pale-blue flame when ignited. The water is in a state of ebullition, 
and the spring- house is kept darkened to increase the effect. A tub with 
a long iron pipe through the bottom is inverted over the water, and a 
constant stream of gas passes througli it, aflbrding a jet of tianie over 3 
ft. high. The spring is at the water's edge, and overlooks the wliite rapids 
to Goat Island ; while nearer at hand is Cynthia Island, joined to the 
Street domain by a pretty footbridge. It is best to return to the Falls by 
the parallel road on the heights, near the Loretto Convent, from which good 
views are gained, including the best overview of tlie Horse-Slioe. " By all 
odds, too, the most tremendous view of the Falls is afforded by the point 
on this drive whence you look down upon tlie Horse-Slioe, and Ijehold its 
three massive walls of sea rounding and sv/eeping into the gulf togetlier, 
the color gone, and the smooth brink shov.dng black and ridgy." A road 
diverging to the 1., near tlie Falls, leads to the handet of Drumviondoille 
(1^ M. from Table Rock), on whose heights is a tower which overlooks the 
battle-field of Lundy's Lane and a great extent of country^, from Bi'ock'a 
monument on Queenston Heights to Buffalo and Lake Erie. 

Tlie * Suspension Bridge which connects Niagara City (so called) and 
Clifton, and sustains the track of the Great Western Railway^ is about 2 
M. N. of the Falls. It was built in 1852, under the direction of John A. 
Roebling, and cost $500,000. It is 800 ft. long, and 230 ft. above the 
river, and weigl* 800 tons, being fitted to sustain a maximum weight of 
7,309 tons. The first wire was drawn across by a sti'ing which had been 
carried over on a kite. 18 ft. above the carriage-way is the railway-floor 
over which the heaviest trains pass safely, causing a deflection in the curve 
of but 5-10 inches. On the S. W. the New Suspension Bridge and the 
Falls are seen, while on the N. are the white and terrible * Whirlpool 
Rapids. Just beyond the Monteagle House (American side) is a double 
elevator (50c. ), which leads from the top of the bank 300 ft. down to the 
verge of these marvellous rapids, where the waters of the great lakes are 
compressed into a narrow gorge, and rush down with such fury that the 
centre of the stream is 30 - 40 ft. higlier than the sides. June 15, 18G7, 
the intrepid pilot Robinson guided the steamer Maid of the Mist as she 
shot these rapids, '* like the swift sailing of a large bird in a dowiiward 
flight." Her smoke-stack was beaten down, and the vessel was tossed 
like a leaf on the huge surges, but speedily reached the calm water below 
Lewiston in safety. About 1 M. below the rapids is the Whirlpool, 
situated in a circular bend of the river, and bounded by cliffs 350 ft. higli. 
Logs and other tilings wliicli are drawn into these concentric currents 
whirl al)Out there for many days. 

Queenston is an insignificant Canadian hamlet 6 M. N. of the Falls ; 
above which a lofty monunient was erected on the place where Gen. Brock 
fell in the battle of Queenston Heights. This was Ijlown up by a scoun- 



396 Route 5S. NIAGARA FALLS. 

drelly refugee in 1840 ; and in 1S53 the present noble * monument was 
dedicated. On a base 40 ft. square and 20 ft. high are 4 colossal lions, 
between which rises a lofty fluted shaft of sandstone. On the Corinthian 
capital is a relief of the Goddess of War, and above this is a dome which 
supports a colossal statue of Gen. Brock. The monument is 185 ft. high, 
and is ascended by an inner spiral stairway of 250 steps. The view from 
this point is extensive, and includes the tower on Limdy's Lane, a consiil- 
erable sweep of the river, and the broad lake. 

It is probable that the fearless Franciscan monks and the adventurous fur- 
tradeis of France had often seen the Falls at a very eiirly day. But the first de- 
seriiitiiiu (with a sketch) was made by Father Henneiihi in 1(378, who gave them a 
height of GOO ft., saying also : "Betwixt the Lakes Erie and Ontario there is a 
vast and prodigious cadence of water which falls down a surprising and astonish- 
ing height, insonuich that the univei'se does not afibrd its parallel The 

waters which fall from this horrible xirecipice do foam and boil after the most 
hideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous noise, more terrible than that 
of thunder ; for when the wind blows out of the S. their dismal roaring may be 
heard more than 15 leagues. The river Niagara, having thrown itself down this 
incredilile precipice, continues its imiietuous course for 2 leagues together .... 

with an inexi>ressil)le rapidity The two brinks of it are so ])r(Kligious high 

that it would make one tremble to look steadily ui)on the water rolling along with 
a rapidity not to be imagined." Belbre this visit the peaceful Kahkwa trilie 
(called the Neuter Nation) had been driven from the region, and the Senecas had 
replaced them, but did not dwell near the cascades (Hennepin thinks they feared 
to be made deaf by "the horrid noise of the Fall"). In 1GS7 the Baron La 
Hontan visited the Falls, and reported them to be 7-SOO ft. high and U M. wide. 
The name Niagara is said to mean "Thunder of Waters." In 1G78 La Salle en- 
tered the river (with IG men, in a 10-ton brigantine) singing the Te Deuvi, and 
the next year sailed from above the Falls in tlie first vessel on the Great Lakes. 
In 1G87 a fort was built at Niagara by the IMarquis I)e Nonville ; and in 1750 Fort 
du Portage was erec^ted above Uie Falls. This was taken in the year of the Con- 
quest of Canada, and was strengthened under the name of Fort Schlosser. In 
17G3 occurred a horrible massacre at Devil's Hole, 'Sk M. S. of the Falls, when a 
large force of Kenecas ambushed a commissary-train- with a strong escort, on the 
shore of Bloody Run. But 2 of the train-guards escaped, while the ^ui)]iorts 
which Avere hurried from Lewiston to the sound of the firing were nearly all ]>ut 
to the tomahawk in a second and)ush. Many of the victims were cast alive from 
the lofty clifls into the boiling Niagara, and their horses and wagons were hurled 
down alter them. 

" O'er TTuron'g wave the sun was low. And while the phantom chained his sight, 

The wearv soldier watched the bow Ah! little thought he of the tiplit, — 

Fast fading from the cloud below The horrors of the dreamless night, 
The dashing of Niagara. That posted on so rapidly." 

The Battle of Niagara Falls, or Lnndy's Lane, was fought July '25, 1814, on the 
lieights U M. W. of the Falls. Several days after the victory at Chii)]iewa, Scott 
advamed''with' 1,200 men, and engaged the British at Lundy's Lane. He supposed 
that but a small force was before hhn, but in reality it was the whole hostile army. 
Jessup's 25th Regulars charged through the lines of AVellington's veterans and 
captured Gen. Riidl and Ins staff, and at 9 in the evening the rest of the army 
reinforced Scott. A little later. Col. IMiller and tlie 21st Reguhirs advanced up 
the heights in the moonlight and stormed the British batteries above. After a 
terrible hand-to-hand contest with the infantry supports. Miller held the hill, with 
7 pieces of British artillery, and rejiulsed 4 charges of the enemy. "When the last 
British assault was disastrously repulse(l, the Americans iem,-.ined in ]iossessioii 
of the enemy's jiositioiis and guns. Later in the night they retired a short dis- 
tance iVom tiie liehl and battery, which were reoccu])ied by the royalists. There 
were 2,000 Americans in this l)attle (of whom 852 were lost), and 4,500 British (of 
whom 878 were lost). The Battle ol Ni;igara Falls '-'lias few iiaialkls in history 



TORONTO. Route 69. 397 

in its wealth of gallant deeds. It was fought wholly in the shadows of a summer 

evening between sunset and midnight Above was a serene sliy, a placid 

moon in its wane, and innumerable stars, — a vision of Beauty and Peace ; below 

was the sulphurous smoke of battle out of which came the quick flashes 

of liglitning and the bellowing of the echoes of its voice, — a vision oi' Horror and 
Strile. Musket, rocket, and cannon, cracking, hissing, and booming ; and the 
clash of sabre and bayonet, with the cries of human voices, made a horrid din 
that connningled with the awful, solemn roar of the gi'cat cataract hard by, whose 
muffled thunder-tones rolled on, on, forever, in infinite grandeur when the puny 
dram had ceased to beat, and silence had settled u])on the field of carnage. There 
the dead were buried, and the mighty diapason of the flood was their "requiem. " 

(LOSSING.) 

59. Niagara Falls to Toronto and Montreal. 

The St. Laiorence River. 
Some tourists prefer to go to Hamilton or to Charlotte (Rochester) by- 
rail, and there to take the steamer; and numerous other combinations of 
rail and water navigation are made. Perhaps the favorite route is by- 
cars (twice daily) along the profound gorge of the Niagara to Lewiston, 
■whence a steamer descends the river, with fine retrospects of the gorge 
and the monument-crowned heights of Queenston. At the mouth of the 
river the American and Anglo-Canadian forts are seen ; and fronting on 
the lake is The Queen's Royal Niagara Hotel, a favorite summer resort 
for the aristocracy of Toronto. Running thence N. W. for 30 M. across 
Lake Ontario, the steamer reaches 

Toronto. 

Hotels. — *Rossin House, $3 a <lay ; Queen's Hotel, Front St., $3 ; Mansion 
House, corner King and York Sts., $1.50-'2 ; Revere ; American ; AlV>ion. Amvse- 
mentA at the Roy-d J^yceum Theatre, and at Sliaftesbury Hall. Post-Oflicc, on 
Adelaide St., at the head of Toronto. Y. M. C. A., corner of King and James 
Sts. 

Railways. — Grand Trunk, to Montreal (333 M.) or Detroit (231 M.) ; Great 
Western, to Niagara Falls (82 M.)and Detroit (225 M.) ; Northern, to Orillia, (on 
Lake Simcoe ; S<3 M.) and Meaford (on Georgian Bay ; 115 M.) : Toronto, Grey, & 
Bruce, to Owen Sound (on Georgian Bay ; 178 M.); 'Poronto & Ni]iissing,'to (Ji")i>o- 
conk (88 M.). Steamers leave semi-daily for Hamilton and for Montreal; once 
daily for Lewiston ; and once daily for Port Dalhonsie. 

Carriages, 25c. a course ; S 1 an- hour. Horse-Cars traverse King, Yonge, and 
Queen Sts. to Trinity College and the Lunatic Asylum. 

Toronto, the capital of the Province of Ontario and the "Queen City 
of the West," is situated on a low sandy plain on the N, W. shore of 
Lake Ontario, between the Don and Hnmber Rivers. Tlie harbor is safe 
and commodious, and is protected by a sandy bar (7 M. long, and 2h M. 
from the shore) which terminates at Gibraltar Point. Toronto is the 
cliief city of Upper Canada, and has 80,000 inhabitants, .54 churches, 
10 banks, and 5 daily papers. There are 3 large grain-elevators on the 
water-front; and the most conspicuous ol)ject to a traveller ajiproaching 
by water is the fine building of the Union Railway Station, with its tall 
towers. The principal streets are King and Yonge (the latter of which 
runs N, for 33 M.), and the city is laid out with great regularity. 



398 Route 59. TORONTO. 

The * University is reached from Queen St, hy College Ave., which is 
4,000 ft. long and 120 ft. wide, and is lined with double rows of shade- 
trees. The buildings (open 2-5 P. M.) form the 3 sides of a quadrangle 
250 ft. square, and are of gray ruhble-stone, trimmed with Ohio and Caen 
stone. The University is the finest specimen of Norman architecture in 
America, and is bold and imposing in its outlines. In the centre of tlie 
S. front is a massive tower 120 ft. high, with the main portal and great 
window covered Avith all the wealth of Norman decoration. The massive 
columns of the vestibule, and the Convocation, Library, and Museum 
halls, v/ith their pointed oaken roofs and grotesquely carved corbels, ai'i 
worthy of notice. To the E. is the Queen's Park, a pleasant domain of 
50 acres, which has been leased to the city for 999 years. It is adorned 
with a costly monumerxt to the Torontonians who were killed during the 
Fenian foray in 1S6G; and also with a fine bronze statue of Queen Vic- 
toria, near the trophy-cannon from Sebastopol. 

* St. James Cathedral is a stately Episcopal church on the corner of 
King and Church Sts. It is in the early English Gothic architecture, and 
is pleasantly secluded among fine old trees. The massive tower has been 
crowned with a spire 325 ft. high, and the open timber roof is 70 ft. 
above the floor of the nave. The stained glass of the lancet-windows in 
the chancel is very brilliant. Opposite the Cathedral, and beyond St. 
Lawrence Hall and jNIarket, is the City Hall. To tlie N., beyond the Col- 
lege of Technology and the Mechanics' Institute, is the elegant and ornate 
building of the MptropoUtan Wesleyan Church, near St. Michael's Cathe- 
•Iral (Catholic). The Xormal School occupies a fine Palladian building, 
and is near the Model Schools and the Educational IMuseum, surrounded 
by Ih acres of finely adorned grounds. The new Post-Ojffice is at the 
head "of Toronto St., and the Masonic Hall (on Toronto St.) has a costly 
and ornate front of Ohio stone. * Osgoode Hall is a stately Government 
building (on Queen St. ) in classic architecture, and is used for the Superior 
Courts of the Province. Near the Union Railway Station are the old 
Provincial Parliament Buildings, and the homely halls of the Upi^^r 
Canada College. 

Trinity College is W. of the city (Queen St. horse-cars), and has 
galjled and tui'i-eted buildings in 15th-century pointed architecture, situ- 
ated in a park of 20 acres which overlooks the bay. It was founded by 
Bishop Strachan in 1851. In this vicinity is the spacious buihling of the 
Promncial Lunatic Asylum, surrounded by 200 acres of ornamental 
grounds, S. of which is the exposition building called the Crystal Palace. 
The General Hospital is a large building on the E. of the city, near the 
Victoria Medical College. The Loretto Abbey (45 nuns ; on Wellington 
Place) and the Convent of the Most Pre(;ious Blood (on St. Joseph St.) 
are interesting Catholic institutions. 



KINGSTON. Route 59. 399 

The Canadian Navigation Co.'s steamers leave Hamilton daily at a. m., and 
Toronto at 2 i*. m. Tliey i-eacli Port Hope at G.aO p. m.; Kingston at 5.30 A. m.; 
Gananoque at 7 a. m. ; Brockville at 9.30; Prescott at 10.30; Cornwall at 1.20 
p. M.; and Montreal at G.45 p. m. State-rooms should be secured as early as 
possible ; and travellers should be awakened on leaving Kingston, in order to see 
the Thousand Islands. 

Passing the Scarboro' Highlands and Darlington port and harbor at 
about supper-time, the steamer reaches Port Hope {St Laiu-rence Hall), 
a pretty village of Durham County. It is located in a narrow valley 
which is overlooked by the hill of Fort Orton, and is surrounded by a 
good farming country. There are 5,400 inhabitants, 7 churches, and 3 
weekly papers; and the buijdingis of Trinity College are seen on the hill 
to the E. The Midland Railway runs thence N. W. to Beaverton and 
Orillia (66 and 87 M.), on Lake Simcoe ; also 40 M. N. to Lakefield, 
whence steamers ascend " a chain of beautiful lakes stretching N. half- 
Way to the Arctic Sea." Cobourg is reached at late twilight, and is a 
pretty town of 4,000 iuhal/itants, with a large trade in shipping lumber, 
iron ore, and grain to the U. S. In the N. is Victoria College, a pros- 
perous Wesleyan university (150 students), with neat buildings in a park 
of 9 acres. A railroad runs 13 M. N. to Harwood, on the many-islanded 
Rice Lake, whence steamers ply (on Rice and Marmora Lakes) to Peter- 
borough (tri-weekly; 30 M. N. ) and Blairton. Daily steamers run from 
Cobourg to Charlotte (see page 390). After leaving Cobourg the Montreal 
steamer passes well out into the lake to avoid the peninsular county of 
Prince Edward. At early dawn Amherst Island is passed, and by day- 
light the broad harbor of Kingston is entered. 

Kingston {British American Hotel) is the chief city of Frontenac 
County, and is favorably situated at the confluence of the Cataracqui 
and St. Lawrence Rivers, at the foot of Lake Ontario, and above the head 
of the Thousand Islands. It has 13,000 inhabitants, 12 churches, 2 small 
cathedrals, 2 daily papers, and numerous manufactories. It ranks, as a 
fortress, next to Quebec and Halifax, and its harbor is defended by strong 
batteries, tlie chief of which is Fort Henry, on Point Frederick. Tlie 
bay is very broad and deep, sheltered by Wolfe and Garden Islands ; and 
there are provisions for making here an extensive naval depot in time of 
war. W. of the city is the Queen's University, a Presbyterian mstitution, 
with faculties of arts and theology. The Catholic College of Regiopo- 
lis has handsome buildings, and the Royal College of Physicians has 11 
professors and good collections. The Penitentiary is 2 M. W., and has 
5-600 convicts ; and the Rnckioood Insane Asylmn is a national institu- 
tion in fine buildings near by. Kingston was founded by De Courcelles 
in 1672, and after the British occupation it was made the capital of 
Upper Canada. Just beyond Kingston begins the Lake of the Thousand 
Islands, which is diversified by over 1,800 islands and islets, afi'ording the 



400 Houtc CO. OTTAWA. 

most picturesque and romantic scenery (see imge 193, Osgood's Middle 
states). The claef sunuiier resort of tlie Thousand Islands is Alexandria 
Bay, a village of N. Y. State, where there are 'A hrst-cluss hotels (* Thou- 
sand Islands House ; * Crossinon House). After traversing the narrow- 
channels of the archipelago for 40 M., the steamer reaches Brockville, a 
large Canadian village whence lumber and iron are shipped to the U. S. 
Small steamers run from this point through the Thousand Islands ; and a 
steam ferry-boat crosses every half-hour to Morristown, a N. Y. liandet. 
Below Brockville the open river is entered, and is followed, by Maitland, 
to Prcscutt (Daniel's Hotel), a sombre stone-built village near the dilapi- 
dated bastions of Fort Wellington. On the opposite shore is the pros- 
perous American city of Ogdensburg {Seymour House; Woodvian 
Jlouse.), with 12,000 inhabitants and great flour and lumber mills. The 
city is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Oswegatchie Rivers, and 
is regularly laid out and handsomely built, its streets being so completely 
lined with trees as to have won for it the name of "the Maple City." 
The St. Jean Ba})tistc church, the dome of the U. S. Post-Office, and 
the lofty elevator which terminates the long wharves are prominently 
s.^en from the river. Ogdensburg "was founded as a mission-station, in 
17-18, by the Abbe Piquet, the patriarch of the Five Nations, was surren- 
«lered to the U. S. in 1796, and was captured by Canadian troops in 1813. 

The St. Lawrence & Ottawa E, K. runs 54 M. N. from Prescott, tlirougyi an un- 
intevestiug region of forests and ru;^ge<l clenrings, and re.iclies Ottawa (II ii ssell 
llotei), tho capital of Canada. The Canadian * * Parliament House is situated 
on a lofty 1 lull' over tliu Ottawa llivtr, and is tli« linost speLinien ot Italian Cothie 
arclntecture in America ov the world. The great *\'ictoria tower in the centre 
or' llio fac;.ade is imposing in its proportions ; and the i)olygonal building of the 
U.iiiiiniou Library \^ in tha rear of the buildings. The halls of the Senate and 
(lianilRTof Comn)ons are worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass 
windows and marble columns. In the Senate is a statue of Queen Victoria, and 
niiLV ttie vice-regal tliione are busts of the Prince and Princess of Wales, The 
<l('l)artniental buildings which flank the Parliament House are stately structures 
in harmonious architecture, and of the same kinds of stone. The Cathedral of 
Kotrc Datue und the nunneries of the lower town are interesting; also tlie new 
cliurclies of the middle town (which, like the rest of the city, is still undergoing 
a formative process). The * * Cliaiicliere Falls are just above the city, where 
the broad Ottawa River plunufs down over long and ragged ledges. In ttiis 
vicinity are inimcnse lumlier-yards, with the connected industries which snpjiort 
tlie French Canadians, wlio form the majority of the citizens here. S. of tlie city 
are the i)retty ludcau Falls, feteiuuers depart frecpiently for Montreal, and f(jr 
the remote forests of the N. 

Ottixwa and the Ottawa River, see Osgood's Middle States, jwige 128. 

The steamer passes out from Prescott, and leaves Fort Wellington and 
the historic Windmill Point on the 1. 3 M. below Prescott it passes 
Chinniey Island, the I.sle Rayale of the French, who built here Fort 
Le\'is, with 35 cannon. Tins work cheekeil .Lor;l Amherst's army of 
10,000 men, and was only reduced after a bombardment of 5 days' dura- 
tion (1700). Off Point Cardinal the steamer enters the <<«U(qx's Ii%jnds : 
and lieyond Point Iroquois the Rajnde da Plat is dcsceude<l, a.Tid the boat 



LONG SAULT RAPIDS. Route GO. 401 

passes between Morrisbixrg and Waddington. 30 M. helow Ogdensbiirg 
is Lmdsville, whence stages run 7 M. E. to the Massena Springs {Hat field 
House). On the N. shore, below Gooseneck Island, is Chryslcfs Farm, 
where 6,000 Americans, under the incompetent Wilkinson, were defeated 
(Nov. 11, 1813) by an inferior British force, and were obliged to give np 
the advance on Montreal. The Americans lost 339 men, and retreated to 
dreary and fatal winter quarters at Fort Covington. The steamer soon 
reaches Dickinson's Landing, and enters the Long Sault Rapids, which 
fall 48 ft. in 9 M., where reaches of level water alternate with white and 
billowy inclines, and a long chain of islands divides the river into 2 
channels. At the foot of the rapids is Cormoall (Dominion Hotel), a 
village of 2,500 inhabitants, which was settled by loyalists and Hessians 
after the Revolution. A ferry runs to St. Regis, a large Indian village ou 
the S. shore (see Osgood's Middle States, page 198). 

Below St. Regis both shores are Canadian, and the river expands into 
Lake St. Francis (5^ M. wide and 25 M. long), which is dotted with islets. 
On the N. shore is Lancaster; and at the outlet is the sombre French vil- 
lage of Coteau du Lac, at the head of 11 M. of Rapids (83 ft. fall), called 
the Coteau and the Cedar Rapids and the Cascades. At their foot is the 
village of Beauhamois, where up-bound vessels enter the Beauharnois 
Canal (S. shore ; 11 M. long, with 9 locks). Opposite this point is the 
moutli of the Ottawa River, and the Isle Perrot, where Amherst encamped 
in 1700, after losing 64 boats and 88 men in the Cedar Rapids. Here the 
steamer enters Lake St. L^ouis (12 x 5 M. ); passes St. Clair, Chateaugay, 
and the Nuns' Island; and opposite Caughnawaga shoots the Lachine 
Rapids (see page 372), beyond Avhich the boat sweeps under the Victoria 
Bridge and reaches Montreal (see page 368). 

60. Quebec to Pictou and Cap9 Breton. The Gulf of St. 

Lawrence. 

The boats of the Quebec Steamship Co. leave Montreal on Monday, 
and Quebec on Tuesday, and touch at Father Point, Metis, Gaspe, Percd, 
Sunnnerside, P. E. I., Charlottetown, and Pictou, reacliing the hitter 
point on Saturday. Tlu^y connect at Perc(5 with smaller steamers which 
run up the Bay of Chaleur. At Pictou connection is made with railways 
for Halifax, St. John, and other parts of the Eastern Provinces. The 
boats no longer visit Chatham, Shediac, Newcastle, etc., but tliey ma^' be 
reached by the Intercolonial Railway. See Osgood's "The Maritime 
Provinces: a Handbook fur Travellers." 



402 Route GO. ISLE OF ORLEANS. 

On leaving Quebec the attention is concentrated on tlie beautiful ret- 
rospect of the loft}' city and its embattled walls. On tlie r. ai-e the 
heights of Point Levi ; and the valley of the St. Cliarles is soon seen open- 
ing on the 1. The Isle of Orleans is next coasted on the N. side, and is 
a fertile district, 20 M. long by 5 - 6 M. wide, insulated by the N. and S. 
channels of the St. Lavv'rence, and famous for its lovely rural scenery. It 
was originally named the Isle of Bacchus ; and received its present title 
I in honor of the royal family of France. There are five parishes on the 
island, and its chief villages are St. Laurent and St. Jean d'Orleaus (1,436 
inhabitants). On the N. bank of the i-iver, beyond the long village of Beau- 
port, with its stately church, the * Montmorcnci Falls are seen, whitely 
gleaming against dark cliffs 250 ft. high. The steamer next passes the 
high and picturesque shores of Ange Gardien, Chateau Richer, St. Anne, 
and St. Joachim (see page 384). 

Below the Isle of Orleans the Laurentian Mts. are seen on the 1., ter- 
minating on the river in the bold promontory called Cap Tourmente. 
The steamer now enters the broader waters of the Lower St. Lawrence 
(20 M. wide), and passes Grosse Isle, Isle aux Coudres, Murray Bay, 
Cacouna, and Tadousac, at the mouth of tlie Saguenay River (pages 385 
and 38G). 16 M. below Riviere du Loup en has is Isle Verte, with a town 
of 1,134 inhabitants, containmg the public buildings of Temiscouata 
County. From the lighthouse a cannon is fired every half-hour during 
snow-storms and fogs. 40 M. farther down is V Islet an, Massoxre (3 x f 
M. in area), whose name is derived from the fact that here, some 2 centu- 
ries ago, 200 Micmac Indians were surprised by the hostile Iroquois. The 
Micmacs were sleeping at night in a large caveni near the beach ; and 
the enemy surrounded its entrance witli fagots which they set on fire. 
Nearly all of the unfortunate Nova-Scotians were massacred amid the 
flames or were suffocated by the smoke. 

In shore from the islet is the village of Bic, on the Intercolonial Rail- 
way; and 9 M. below is RinwiisH, with its sunnuer hotels (sea-batliiiig), 
spacious cathedral, and the public buildings of Rhiiouski County. The 
hills of Bic and Rimouski are quite picturesque. 

Wednesday morning the steamer reaches Father Point, a small hamlet 
near the mouth of the Rimouski River (famous for its fisheries). At the 
lighthouse on the Point is a marine telegraph-office, and outward-bound 
vessels leave their pilots here. This vicinity is much frequented by 
sportsmen, on account of the multitudes of Canada geese, ducks, and 
brant that are found here. Beyond Father Point the steamer passes tlie 
maritime hairdets of Metis and Matane, and begins to round the great 
peninsula of Gaspe, a vast vialderaess whose shore is dotted at wide 
distances with small fishing-stations. On the N. shore is the bold and 
dangerous Pointe de Monts, with its fog-guns and lofty lighthouse ; and 



BAY OF CHALEURS. Route GO. 403 

the highlands of Gaspe are passed on the r. N. E. of the vessel's 
course, but only visible in dearest weather, is the Island of Anticosti, 
a cold and mountainous land, with vast peat-bogs and marl-beds. Its 
area is 2,G0O square M., and its popnlation is 102. Bear-hunting in the 
nits., and the pursuit of seals in the bays, form arduous but profitable 
employments ; and salmon and trout, cod and herring, are found in great 
abundance. Rounding Cape Rosier, with its lofty lighthouse, and passing 
Cape Gaspe, the steamer reaches Gaspe, a rude village of 726 inhabitants, 
situated on the edge of the trackless wilderness, and supported by the 
cod and mackerel fisheries. Back of the town is Fort Ramsaif, on a tall 
hill wliicli overlooks the deep, silent bay called the Gaspe Basin. Cartier 
landed at this point July 24, 1554. 

The steamer tiien passes in sight of tlie tremendous and fatal cliffs of Cape 
Dtscspuiv, and leaves the remarkable rocks at the mouth of the May; and 
reaches Perce, a hshing village of 1,743 inhabitants, situated amid roman- 
tic but desolate scenery, and containing the public buildings of Gaspe 
County. Opposite the village is Le Rocker Perce, a remarkable rock 
which rises from the water to the height of 288 ft., witli a precijiitous 
front 1,200 ft. long. It is pierced by a natural tunnel or arch, through 
wldi-li small Hsliiug-smacks can sail under the rock to the water on either 
side. On its lofty and inaccessible summit myriads of sea-fowl (gannets, 
cormorants, gulls, etc.) build their nests, and the neighboring fishermen 
claim that the rock is haunted by a spirit {Le Genie de VIslo Pcrci). 
Leaving Perce at 8 A. M., the steamer passes Bonaventure Island {V.j x £ 
M. in area), a Catholic settlement facing the surges of the Gidf of St. 
Lawrence, and in winter resembling an iceberg. The trend of tlie coar.t 
is followed to the S. W., and at 2 P. M. (Thursday) the pretty handct of 
Faspebiac is reached. The view now opens at the Bay of Chaleur for 
58 M., with rugged mountains to the N., and small tishing-settlements 
near the strand. At the W. end of tlie Bay is Dalhou&'ie, a port of entry 
witli 2,400 inhabitants and several churches, situated on a hue harbor at 
the mouth of the Restigouche River (draining 4,000 square M. ). The 
chief industry of Dalhousie is in preserving and shipping salmon and 
lobsters. " The Old Woman " is a singular column of rock rising from 
the water-level near this place; and on an adjacent hill is a conspicuous 
obelisk, erected over a naval ofhcer's grave. Steamers ascend the Resti- 
gouche 16 M. to the village of Camphellton, the chief station in the N. 
on the Intercolonial Railway, and favored with a large trade m lumber 
and fish. Sldppujan Island {2i) X 10 INI. in area) is seen in the W. Vessels 
ascend Miramiclii Bay and Piver for IG M. to Chatham, a handsome sea- 
port town with 0,000 inhabitants, 4 cliurches, a catliedral, and a college. 
Tlie streets are lighted with gas, and the harbor can accommodate the 



404 Route GO. PEINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 

largest ships. Immense quantities of lumber and fish are exported thence. 
Steamboats cross to Newcastle (6 M. ; 30 min.), an active village of 4,200 
inhabitants, finely situated on the Miramichi River, and the capital of 
Northumberland County. The railroad cars may be taken at Point du 
Chene, running S. W. to St. John, 108 M. ; Bangor, 314 M. ; and Boston, 
560 M. (also S. to Pictou, 181 M.; and Halifax, 190 M.). 



The journey from Point dn Chene to Pictou usiially occupies 10-13 
hrs., with Prince Edward Island on the 1., and New Brunswick and 
Nova Scotia on the r. Passing between Capes Tormentine ami Traverse, 
the course is laid to the S. E., down the Northumberland Straits; and at a 
little after noon on Saturday the steamer reaches Pictou, a place of about 
4,000 inhal)itants, situated in a fertile country. Large quantities of coal 
are mined about 12 M. back of Pictou, and are shipped from this port to 
England and (in limited quantities) to the United States. 

Steamers leave Pictou tri-weekly (Mon., Wed., and Fri. ), on the arrival 
of the morning train from Halifax, and run to Charlottetown (in 3-4 
hrs.), the capital of Prince Edward Island, a prettily situated town 
with 12,000 inhabitants, 9 churches, 7 weekly papers, 3 banks, St. Dun- 
stan's, the Prince of Wales, and the Methodist Colleges, a neat Govern- 
ment House of Nova Scotia stone, and several broad, shady, and dull 
streets running to a deep and tranquil harbor. The steamer Heather Bell 
nms thence up the Hillsborough River, through pretty scenery, to Mount 
Stewart, a flourishing shipbuilding hamlet 18 M. distant (leaves at 3 P. M., 
and returns in tlie evening). Steamers leave Pictou Saturdays for George- 
town, P. E. I. ; and the popular resort at Summer side {Island Park Hotel) 
is reached by boat from Shediac or (tri-weekly) from Charlottetown (whence 
also by railroad). 

Steamers leave Pictou every Tuesday and Thursday on the arrival of 
the morning trsun fi'om Halifax, and run N. E. to Hawkeshury or Port 
Hood, maritime villages of the island of Cape Breton. Stages run thence 
to Whykokomagh^ a rural hamlet picturesquely situated at the foot of the 
Bras d'Or, a sheltered salt-water lake 50 M. long, which is broken by 
promontories into deep and narrow bays. Tlie steamboat descends the 
Bras d'Or amid beaiitiful scenery to Baddeck (see Charles Dudley Warner's 
" Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing "), the capital of Victoria County, with 
400 inhaVntants, and a considerable trade with Newfoundland. 20 M. be- 
yond Baddeck tlie Xi'pltme readies the hamlet of Little Bras d'Or ; then 
passes the rich Sydney coal-mines, near the Atlantic. 20 M, beyond the 



ITINERARY. 405 

nines, tlie boat reaches S. Sydney, situated on a noLle liarbor, and fa- 
mous for its coal-shiijnients (also as being tlie French naval station for N. 
America). It lias 3,000 iuliabitants, 6 cliurclies, and 2 weekly papers. 
24 M. S. E. of S. Sydney, is the former seat of French domination in 
America, the port of Louishourg, whei-e France erected fortifications 
■which cost over $6,000,000, and established a prosperous commercial 
city. After several sieges and battles the fortress was demolished by the 
British in 1763; and there now remain a few fishermen, dwelling amid 
ancient ruins which front the Atlantic. 



SUPPLEMENTARY 

NEW-ENGLAND ROUTES. 
61. Boston to Lexington and Concord. 

By the Middlesex Central R. R., in 40 -60 minutes. 

Stations. — Boston ; Elm St. ; Lake St. ; Arlington ; Arlington Heights ; Lexing- 
ton ; Bedford ; Concord. 

The train leaves the Boston, Lowell & Nashua station, and passes out 
over the Charles River, with broad views of the cities on either side. It 
then traverses parts of the manufacturing suburb of E. Cambridge and 
the long city of Somerville, which has 21,868 inhabitants, with 12 
churches, a paper, and a valuation of about $ 30,000,000. It has manufac- 
tories of muslin-prints, glass, brass-ware, bricks, and hollow-ware. There 
are several far-viewing hills in the vicinity ; and the buildings of Tufts 
College stand on Walnut Hill, to the N. 

Soon after leaving the main line tlie train reaches Arlington {ArUng- 
tdii J/ouse)^ a pleasant hamlet near the picturesque Spy Pond This town 
has 3,906 inhabitants, with 6 churches, a savings-bank, paper, higli- 
school, and library. It contains many market-gardens, where vegetables 
an i small fruits are raised for the Boston market. J. T. Trowbridge, the 
author, lives near Spy Pond ; and the old summer-home of Edward 
Everett was near Mystic Pond. Arlington stands on the ancient Indian 
domain of Menotomy, subsequently called W. Cambridge. It sent 295 
soldiers to the Secession War. S. of the village is the old Russell house, 
where the Essex-County minute-men attacked Lord Percy's troops in the 
retreat from Lexington. 11 Americans were killed in this house. 



406 Route 61. LEXINGTON. 

Arlington Heights (Barnard House, used as a pninmcr-resort) i? a mod- 
ern village on the hills N. W. of Spy Pond, havinp; several pretty villas 
and summer-residences. The OHver-Warner mansion is near the crest. 
The Heights are often visited for the sake of the noble view enjoyed 
therefrom, which includes Boston and its environs, the harbor and its 
islands, the ocean, the adjacent lakes and villages, and a vast area to the 
N. and W., including Mts. Wachusett and Monadnock. 

Bevond the hamlet of K Lcxinyton the train reaches Lexington (see 
page 28), the chief place in a town of 2,505 inhabitants, with a savings- 
bank, high-school, paper, and 5 churches. The fine forests and pictu- 
resque hill-country around the village have been much admired. " Not 
even a church-spire pierces through the green boughs, and yet this is in the 
heart of the most densely populated State of the Union." The Green is a 
well-shaded park of two acres, on which the fight of 1775 occurred, and at 
one end of it is a modest monument erected by the State in honor of the 
men who fell that day. At the other end of the Green is the Memorial 
Hall which was built in honor of the Lexington soldiers who fell in the 
Civil War. It is a handsome brick building, in which are statues of the 
Minute-Man of 1776, the Volunteer of 1861, and the Revolutionary heroes, 
John Hancock and Samuel Adams. Beyond the rotunda is the Gary 
Free Library. The streets in the ricinity are shady and pleasant, and 
contain many comely residences and ancient historic estates. Theodore 
Parker was born in this town. 

Station, Bedford (Bedford House), in a farming and dairy town of 896 
inhabitants. The village has two churches, and is on high ground, with 
pleasant streets shaded with immemorial elms. 2 M. N. is the ancient 
summer-resort of Bedford Springs (^ 10 a week), near medicinal sulphur, 
saline, and iron springs, groves, and a lake. 

The line next sweeps around into Concord (see page 28), which may 
also be reached by the Fitchburg R. R. The Middlesex Hotel is pleasantly 
situated on the Common, and is much frequented in summer. The town 
contains 2,676 inhabitants, with 170 productive f-irms, 3 churches, a public- 
library, high -school, lyceum, bank, and a valuation of about $2,500,000. 
On the'common is a plain monument in honor of the 34 soldiers of Concord 
who died in the Secession War. The riihlic Library is a quaint and 
many-angled modern building near the centre of the village. 

This structure contaius a large and well-selected library ; busts of Plato, Errcrson, 
Atrassiz, Mann, Hawthorne, and Brown; large portraits of Emerson ^\ ashington 
(<opied from Stuarfs), and Colmnbus (copied from Titian's, by Raphael Mengs), 
manuscript vohmies, etc, of Washington, Motley, Lowell ( "Ihe Cathedra '), 
Holmes, Thorcau (•' Walking ••), and Enieison C' Culture ) ; collections of the llora 
and Indian relics of Concord, coins and u^edid., .:olu.i., pes, a Bible of 159J , and 
other curiosities. The Concord A'n>v( cont ins a narble bust of ^\ ilhani Jliinroe, 
the donor of the building. a> d i^ devoted to the books aid newspapers written oy 
people of this town, beginning in 1646 Among the literary rotables who ba>c 
lived in this village are Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry D. Thore:ui,the Hawt^ioriie^, 
A B Alcott, Louisa M. Alcott, E. R Hoar, l-rederick Hudson, Dr. Folsom.Wilham 



CONCORD. Route 62. 407 

Ellery Channing, William Whiting, Jane G. Austen, Frank Sanborn, Edward 
Everett, Horace Mann, George Bartlett, Elizabetli Peabody, Margaret Fuller, George 
V/illiam Curtis, Ezra Ripley. " John Phoenix," and others. In Concord, "it is 
dangerous to turn a corner suddenly for fear of ruauing over some first-class saint, 
philosopher, or sage." 

A short walk (| M.) from the village-green along the Lexington road 
leads to the tree-surrounded and many-gabled yellow house (1. side of the 
road) formerly occupied by Nathaniel Hawthorne. The fir-lined path 
toward? the river and the ridge to the rear were his favorite walks ; and 
his study was in the top of the tower, where he inscribed Tennyson's line, 
"There is no joy but Calm." The house is now owned by Mr. D. Lo- 
throp, the Boston publisher. An avenue of larch-trees leads hence to 
the quaint and picturesque house called "Apple Slump," occupied by 
the Alcott family, — Amos Bronson Alcott, the philosopher, Louisa May 
Alcott, the author, and May Alcott, the artist. Nearer the Common, at the 
intersection of the Lexington and Boston highways, is the spacious white 
house of Ralph Waldo Emerson, "on low ground, with limited outlook, 
and on the skirt of the village." Walden Pond is about 1 M. S. E. of 
Concord, by Walden St. Its shores were the scene of Thoreau's lonely 
studies, and are now used as a picnic-ground. 

The battle-ground is on the other side of the village, a few minutes' walk 
from the Common, near the Concord River. On one side of the bridge 
are the battle monuments and the graves of the British soldiers ; and on 
the other shore is a noble bronze * statue representing the Minute-Man of 
1776 (made by Daniel M. French, and cast at Chicopee). Near this point, 
iu the fields, is an ancient gambrel-roofed house, from whose windows 
Parson Emerson watched the battle. Here Ralph Waldo Emerson was 
born and lived for years ; and at a later day Nathaniel Hawthorne dwelt 
and wrote in this " Old Manse." The lowly graves of Hawthorne and 
Thoreau are in "Sleepy Hollow," the village cemeter}'. Get Bartlett's 
capital "Concord Guide Book" (illustrated). 

62. Boston to Swampscott and Marblehead. 

By the new Swampscott Branch of the Ea<;tern R. R Boston to Swampscott, 40 
minutes. Fare to Swampscott, 35 c. ; to Marblehead, 50 c 

Stations. -Boston to Somcrville, 2 M. ; Everett, 3 ; Chelsea, 5; Revere, 6; W. 
Lynn, 10; Lynn, 11 ; Swampscott, 13 ; Phillips Beach ; Beach Bluff; Clifton; Dev- 
ereux ; Marblehead, 17. 

Boston to Swampscott station, see pages 248-251. Barges and car- 
riages from hotels meet the trains at the station on the main line. The 
* Lincoln House (170 guests) is beautifully situated on Fishing Point, about 
li RL from the station ; the * Ocean is near the short beach on the E. ; the 
Great Anawan is on a high hill beyond, among pleasant groves and nearly 
hidden from the closely adjacent sea; and the Little Anawan is near the 
shore, towards Ocean Avenue (see also page 251). The two first-named 
charfie $15-25 a week; the others are more niodci'iite. Nearer the 



408 Route 62. SWAMPSCOTT. 

station arc the large summer boarding-houses of Mrs. Page, Mrs. Adams, 
and Messrs. Blaney, Page, Slierwin, and others. The feature of summer-, 
cottages prevails here to a great extent, and some of the villas are costly 
and beautiful. The topography of Swiimpscott is remarkably varied and 
interesting, since it is a hilly and rocky town, fronting to the S and E. on 
the ocean, and giving from its high promontories broad marine views, in- 
cluding also Egg Rock, Nahant, the Scituate blufTs, and the Blue Hills of 
Milton. There are three beaches, — Blaney's and Whale, short strips 
near the village, and Phillips Beach, which faces to the E., and is 1 i\I. 
long, with Phillips Pond inside and the rocky heights of Phillips Point on 
the S., covered with villas. The town has 2,128 inhabitants, with 4 
churches, and a fleet of about 20 vessels, employed in the fisheries. Most 
of the adjacent towns are supplied with fish from this point. 

The Phillips- Bench station is convenient to the great beach, though well 
inland. The line is now on a high grade, and gives fine views of the mas- 
sive blue sea, over rich green fields and the gardens of villas. On the 1. 
are tree-crested hills. Bedch-Blujf station is near the Addison-Child 
cottages; and about ^ M. distant, on a high bluff over the sea, are the 
* Hotel Preston and The Upland, two first-claes summer-hotels ($12-20 
a week). The view from this headland was commended by Lieut. 
Maury as the noblest on the Eastern coast. The wh'te ledges of Ram 
Island and Tinker's Island are plainly seen, with Phillips Point on the r. 
and Marblehend Neck on the 1. Pleasant sea-views are gained as the train 
passes on to Clifton, near which is the Clifton House, an old hotel which 
has lately been somewhat remodelled and improve<l. It is near the sea; 
and its rates are lower than those of the Preston. Dererevx station is 
near the large summer boarding-house called the Devereux iMansion, and 
the shore is lined with the dainty villas of city merchants and the snug 
cabins of up-country farmers. As the train advances the spires of Mar- 
bleliead apjjear in front, and the terminal station is soon reached. 

Marblehead (two small inns) now has 7,G77 inhabitants (see page 255), 
8 churches, a paper, a high-school, 2 banks, and a valuation of over 
$4,000,000. It has aliout 25 vessels, with a snug little harbor sheltered by 
the Marblehead Great Neck. In May, 1876, a handsome granite monument 
(near the station) was dedicated to tlie memory of Capt. Mugford, of this 
port, who, in 1776, captured a British ship off Boston Harbor, laden with 
1,500 barrels of powder, 1,000 carbines, and other military stores. He 
sent her in to Washington's ill-provided army, and was killed the same 
day, while repelling a British attack on his vessel. From the old ruined 
fort on a headland S. of the town a pleasant view is atTorded, including 
the harbor, the Neck, Lowell and Baker's Islands, the S. shore of Cajie 
Ann, the graceful curve of Marblehead Beach, and the Swampscott shore. 
Fori Sfwall is on a point to the N. E., over Little Harboi*. The hilly 
character of the streets and the evident antiquity of the houses give an in- 



WINTHROP. Ihnde 03. 409 

teresting appparance to the town On the Common is the brick-and- 
brownstone building of Abbott Hall, with a great library and a tower 
wliich may be seen for many miles. 

Marblehead Neck is a hilly peninsula, 11 M. long, between the harbor 
and the ocean, and has numerous summer-villas and the headquarters of 
tlie Eastern Yacht Club. It is reached over the low isthmus of J/rtr6^e- 
hend Btack {% M. long). At its N. end is the lighthouse, 1{ M. from 
Lowell Island; and Tinker's Island lifts its white rocks on the S. Just 
S. of Nashua Village are the remains of an ancient Indian cemetery. 
The Nanepashemet, a magnilicent new summer-hotel, overlooks the sea 
and Tinker's Island. A steamboat plies between Marblehead and the 
Neck. 

63. Boston to Revere Beach and Lynn. 

The new narrow-gauge railroad on this route has met with a great measure of 
success, and is convenient for excursions to the adjacent sea-shore. It has light 
grades and Jong curves ; and is equipped with Fairlee locomotives and neat httle 
cars, some of which are open at the sides. Boston to Lynn, 34 minutes. 

Stations. — Boston; E. Boston; Wood Island ; Harbor \'iew ; Winthrop Junc- 
tion ; Beachmont ; Crescent Beach ; Atlantic ; Oak Island ; Point of Pines ; W. Lynn ; 
Lynn. 

Horse-cars run from Tremont and Washington Sts. to the station on 
Atlantic Ave., Boston, whence a ferry-boat crosses to the Island Ward of 
E. Boston, where much of the heavier shipping of the port is moored. On 
the r., during this transit, are S. Boston, Fort Independence, and Fort 
Winthrop (on the nearest high green island). Passing the great elevators 
in E. Boston, the boat enters the slip, and passengers take the waiting train, 
Avhich soon runs through a tunnel 474 ft. long, after which it traverses 
the long sea-wall, and crosses the basin on a pile-bridge, 2,005 ft. long. 
E. Boston is seen on the 1., with its many spires, and the train runs along 
Wood Island, over the flats, and reaches Breed's Island by a pile-bridge. 
From Winthrop Junction a branch line diverges to Ocean Spray {The 
Shirley; Ocean Spray; etc.), a prett}'- beach-colony; Great Head (St.- 
Leonard'' s Hotel); and Point Shirley, for now nearly forty years the seat 
of Taft's Hotel, famous for rich game dinners. All these stations are in the 
picturesque peninsular town of Winthrop, bet^yeen Boston Harbor and the 
sea, with its sliores and bold headlands lined Avith summer-cottages. It is 
within easy drive of Boston, and has the ancient Deane-Winthrop house 
and other curiosities. 

Beyond Beachmont the line reaches the crest of the beach, which is fol- 
lowed for several miles. This beach is of sand, sloping very gradually, free 
from undertow, and with a light surf, being partly embayed by Nahant 
and Winthrop. It is ninth visited b}' the working-people of Boston, especially 



410 Route 6^. REVERE BEACH. 

on Sundays, and all the hotels (save one) are devoted entirely to transient 
business and the furnishing of meals. The level strand also makes an 
admirable drive-way, at low tide, and is much used for that purpose. Tlie 
train stops first at the Pavilion, in the quadrangle of the new summer- 
hotel. This handsome edifice opens about July 1, and will take perma- 
nent boarders. It is adorned with four towers, and is built around tlie 
four sides of a hollow square. 

The next stopping-place is at the Atlantic and Robinson-Crusoe Houses, 
where the horse-cars from Chelsea reach the shore. These hotels and the 
Revere House (farther up the strand) furnish fish dinners, chowders, and 
other refreshments, to people visiting the beach. As the train advances, 
fine views are given over the sea, including Nahant and the bluff Winthrop 
Head; while to the 1., across the marshes on which the Eastern R. R. runs, 
is the lofty Soldiers' Home (on Chelsea Highlands), which overlooks a 
vast expanse of sea. 

Where Pine Point trends to the N. E. the line leaves the beach, and soon 
stops near the Point of Pines, where there is an immense and ornate 
summer-hotel, looking out on Lynn outer harbor. The line now crosses 
the Saugus River, near its mouth, on a bridge 1,344 ft. long, runs througli 
the skirt of Lynn, and soon reaches the terminal station on the main street 
of the city. 

Lynn, see page 250. 

64. Boston to Acton and Nashua. 

By the Fitchburg R R- and the Nashua, Acton &. Boston R. R. , in lJ-2 hrs. 
Fare, i? 1.35. 

Stations. — Boston to Concord Junction, 22 M. ; Acton, 24; N. Acton, 26i ; 
K. Littleton, 30i ; Westford, 32; Graniteville, 33; E. Groton, 37; Dunstable, 40; 
Nashua (Main Street), 45i ; Northern Depot, 46^. 

The train leaves the Fitchburg station in Boston ard runs for 22 M. over 
Route 25 (pages 175-176). At Concord Junction (W. Concord) the 
Nashua, Acton, & Boston R. R. diverges to the N. W. W. Concord has 
small factories for making flannel and pails. Acton {Monument House, 
a comfortable old hotel, fronting on the Common) is the chief village in a 
rural town of 1,708 inhabitants, and is pleasantly situated on high ground. 
The streets and Common are quiet and well-shaded, and there is a Con- 
gregational cliurch. A tall shaft of granite masonry has been erected on 
the Common, in memory of the captain of the Acton minute-men, who was 
killed at the Concord fight. S. Acton (American House) is a busy and 
prosperous manufacturing village of 500 inhabitants, 2 M. S. W. on the 
Fitchburg R. R. 

N. Acton is near the pretty Nagog Pond, and the line thence ascends 
the Nashoba valley by the Nashoba Hill (on the 1.) to E. Littleton, in a 
quiet old farming and dairy town of 950 inhabitants, with 3 churches and 



WESTFORD. Route 05. 411 

several picturesque ponds, abounding in perch and pickerel. It occupies 
the site of the Indian village of Nashoba, where a Christian church was 
formed by the Apostle Eliot, Aliatawana being the local chieftain. "The 
shooting of Nashoba Hill" is a singular rumbling sound which often 
issues from that eminence. 

Forr/e ViUn(/e has a large nail-factory. 

Westford Centre is 1^-2 M. E., and is a handsome village with a 
library, academy, and 2 churches, on a high ridge which commands views 
of Mts. Wachusett and Monadnock, the White Mts., and a vast area of 
the hill-towns. The town has 1,933 inhabitants, and sent 135 soldiers into 
tlie Secession War. It was the birthplace of Bishop T. C. Brownell and 
Willard Hall. The train now crosses the Stony-Brook R. R., and at 
Graniterille passes large quarries of the so-called Clielmsford granite. 
Traversing the E. part of Groton, Bear Hill and Horse Hill are seen, with 
the th'nly settled region around them. Dunstable is at the centre of an 
ancient and decadent farming town of 452 inhabitants, and has 2 small 
churches and 90 farms. It was settled in 1673, and was the centre of sev- 
eral bold campaigns against the heathen. 

Soon after passing Flat-Rock Hill (on the 1.) the train enters the State 
of New Hampshire, and reaches Nashua (see page 191). 

65. Boston and Worcester to Mt. Wachusett and Mt. 

Monadnock. 

By the Boston, Barre & Gardner and Monadnock R. R , which was constructed in 
18'J9-74. Boston to Mt. AVachusi-tt, GO M ; to Mt. MouaJnoi-k, 95 M. 

Stations. — \Voirc.ster to Lincoln Sqii.u-e, 1 M ; Barker's Crossing, 3 ; N. 
Worcester, 4^ ; Chaffiirs, 6; Ilolden, 8 ; .letfersoirs, 9i : North Woods, 11; Brookj 
13; Princeton, 13 ; Ilubbardstou, 'iO ; Waite's, 23; Gardner, 2G ; Iley wood's, 27 ; 
Winchendon, 36 ; Rindge, 42 ; Jaifrey,46i Peterborough, 53. 

After passing out from the streets of W^orcester, and beyond Lincoln 
Square, the Worcester & Nashua R. R. is seen diverging to the r., and the 
train tlien runs along the shore of North Pond, near ihe modern villas and 
country-seats of N. Worcester. Winter Hi!l appears on the 1., over tiie 
pond, and glimpses are gained of the more distant Asnebumskit Hill 
(1,407 ft. high). Beyond the hamlet of Chaffinville the train reaches 
Ilnhlen Ce??«?-e (Eagleville Hote^), the chief place in a hilly farming and 
manufacturing town of 2,180 inhabitants, with 7 villages. 1 M. N. of 
Holden Centre is the proposed crossing of the Mass. Central R. R. 

Va-Ktoni Summit House) in a rural town S. W. of Holden, among picturesque 
higtilands, wit.h a soldiers' nionnnient (to 21 dead). Stages leave Jefferson's on 
the arrival of the late afternoon train, for Rutland (4 M. N. W.), Coldbrook Spring.s, 
ami Rarre. Jiutlaiid (Armington House) is in a rich fanning and dairy town of 
1,080 inhabitants, with 3 villages, and several ponds. This was the Indian domain 
of Nnquag. and was often attacked by the savages. Gen. Bnrgovne'-s captive Brit- 
i-h army was quartereil here for some time, on Barrack Hill <";i»l<1l»r«oIc 
>^}.»r'nss is a summer-frequented spa ; and Harre is on the Uart- River R R. 



412 Route 65. MOUNT WACHUSETT. 

The train runs N. from Holden by several small stations, to Princeton, 
near which is Wliittaker's summer-hotel, in a high and far-viewing loca-. 
tion. Stages run from the trains 2 M. E. to Priuceton Centre (* IVncJui^ 
sett House, spacious and comfortable, with billiards, bowling, liverj'-stable, 
etc.; Prospect House; and several boarding-houses). This is a pleas- 
ant village on a high plateau, surrounded by a lake-strewn highland 
region through which good roads pass in every direction. The town was 
founded about the middle of the last century; was named in honor of the 
Rev. Thomas Prince, the historian; sent 80 soldiers to the Civil War; and 
was the birthplace of Leonard Woods, D. D., the theologian. 2^ M. N. 
is the Mountain House (Mt. Wachusett Post-office), on the S. E. slope of Mt. 
Wachusett, 1,200 ft. above the sea. It has a large farm, livery-stable, 
bowling-alley, etc. ; and stages run to Princeton station twice daily. The 
rates are $ 7 - 10 a week. 

Mount Wachusett 
is 2,480 ft. high, and is prominently seen from vessels off the ^lass. coast. 
It is ascended from Bolton's, on the N. ; from the Pine-Hill House, on the 
E. ; and from the Mountain House. The latter is the favorite path, and 
is 1 M. long, following the line of the old Coast-Sui'vey road, ^ M. over 
pastures, and then through a forest, with several sharp curves. On the 
top is the small Summit House, where visitors can pass the night or get 
refreshments. On its roof is an observatory, provided with a telescope 
and field-glasses. Little Wachusett flanks the mountain on the S. A 
capital carriage-road leads to the summit of Wachusett. 

** The Vietv. It is claimed that 300 Tillages and parts of 6 States are seen from 
this summit. The section towards the coast is best seen in the latter part of the 
afternoon, and in the clear weather of June or October. Mt. Monadnock is 
N. N. W , well-defined and vast, over Westminster and Meetinj^-IIouse Lake. 
Snnapce Mt is beyond Monadnock, on its r , and the round Watatic Mt is 
nearer, with Temple Mt. and Pack Monadnock be.vond Far away over these is 
the blue spire of Mt. Kearsaro;e, with the disk of Moosilauke back of it, 120 M. N. 
The twin Uncanoonucs are on the r. of Pack Monadnock, over which Mt. Washin;.;- 
ton and the White Mts may be .'^ecn on clear days, 140 M. distant, with Mt. Ik'l- 
knap to the r. and nearer Fitchburg and Lunenburp^ are nearly N E , with the 
various hamlets of Groton and Towusend ; and farther to the r. are Leominster, 
Harvard, and the Actons. Then come E. Princeton, the Lancaster villages, ('ou- 
cord, Prospei-t Hill at Waltbam (S. of E.), S. Boston, and the Charlestown Navy- 
Yard The Blue Hills of Milton arc to the r., and a wide reach of the ocean opens 
beyond, often dotted with shining sails. Next are seen the white villages of Clinton 
and Berlin, Marlboro, Sonthboro, and Ashland, the Boylstons, high-placed Ilopkin- 
ton, Shrewsbury, and Grafton, with many a lakelet glisteninir between. Worcester 
is plainly discerned, E. of S., with the" forest-hamlet of Hnlden to the r., over 
Princeton Quinnipo.xet Lake and Flagleville are 5 M. S., with the highland villages 
of Connecticut far beyond Kutland, Paxton, Oakham and N. Brookfield next 
appear; and over white Barre is the crest of Mt. Tom. Be\on>l the near Moose- 
horu Lake are Dana, Prescott, and Ilubbardston ; and over Ueiidell is lofty Grey - 
I'ick (80 M distant), beyond tlie IIoosjic range. Then come Tenipleton and other 
villages to the N W , with Mt. Stratum and others of the Green Mrs. far beyond. 

This view is miinitel\ analy/ed and de.-^crilicd (lo pages) in " BuUard's Guide to 
Mt. Wachusett,'' which every visitor should get. 



MOUNT xMONADNOCK. Route C5. 413 

Beyond Princeton the train runs N. W., with views of Wachusett on the 
r., soon passing the picnic-station near Mooseborn Lake. Hubbardston 
{Crystal House; and several summer boarding-houses) is ^ M. S. W. of its 
station, and is in a prosperous and picturesque farming town of 1,440 
inhabitants, with 3 churches and a library. At Gardner (two hotels) 
the Hoosac-Tunnel Line is crossed (see Rout« 25). The town of Gard- 
ner has 3,730 inhabitants, with 4 churches, a paper, a bank, valuable 
forests, and rich farms. It makes more chairs than any other place in 
the world, employing 2,000 workmen in this industry. 

The line next runs along the E. shore of the beautiful Crystal Lake, 
and runs N. N. W. through a thinly settled country, with views of Mt. 
Watatic on the r. At Winchendon ( American House) it meets the 
Cheshire R. R. and the Ware-River R. R. This town has 3,762 inhabit- 
ants, with a paper, library, bank, 6 churches, and manufactories of pails, 
tubs, chairs, shoddy, and cotton goods. It contains several lakes, and 
Miller's River gives a valuable water-power. 

The line now enters the State of New Hampshire, and crosses the lake- 
strewn town of JRindf/e, which has 1,107 inhabitants (less than it had in 
1790). Rindge village (Rindge House) is 1^ M. S. E. of W. Rindge station, 
and manufactures wooden-ware. E. JaiFrey {Granite-State Hotel; and 
summer boarding-houses) is a pleasant village, with manufactories of 
cotton, knives, wooden-ware, and 2 banks and 3 churches. Over 800 
summer-tourists visit this town yearly. 2 M. N. W. is Jaffrey Centre 
(daily stages), with 2 inns. 

Mount Monadnock, 
or the Grand Monadnock, is visited from E. Jaffrey, whence the Mountain 
House is 5 M. distant. The path thence to the summit is about 1 M. 
long, leading through shady forests and then out on the rocky crest. The 
peak is 3,186 ft. high, and commands a noble * view. The White Mts. 
are seen in the N. N. E., beyond the great Merrimac Valley, with Mt. 
Washington highly pre-eminent. Farther to the r., to the 1. of Crotched 
Mt., is Mt. Belknap, near Lake Winnepesaukee ; Joe-English Hill and the 
Uncanoonucs are E. N. E. ; and on the E. are the New-Ipswich Mts. with 
the Temple range and Pack Monadnock. Watatic is S E., and Wachusett 
is S. S. E. The view then sweeps over the hill-country of Massachusetts, 
by many lakes and villages, and falls on Pocomtuck Mt., in the S. W. It 
is also claimed that Greylock and Hoosac Mt. are seen, in the W. S. W. 
To the W and N. W. are many of the Green Mts. of Vermont, in broken 
and picturesque outlines; and towards the N, are Lovewell's Mt, Suna- 
pee Mt., Kearsarge, and Moosilauke. There are many lakes and hamlets 
visible in this broad circuit, giving a rare diversity and beauty to the 
landscape (see also pages 179-180). 
Peterborough {French's Hotel; and summer boarding-houses) is a 



414 Route 66. PETERBOKOUGH. 

prosperous manufacturing village, at the confluence of the Contoocook 
and Nubanusit Rivers, with 2,400 inhabitants, 2 banks, a paper, a Hbrary 
of 4,000 volumes, and 5 churches. Tlie manufactures are of cotton, trusses, 
piano-stools, thermometers, paper, lumber, etc. The streets are pleas- 
antly shaded with trees ; and the village has a large country -trade. Many 
summer-visitors sojourn here, attracted by the pleasant scenery of the 
Pack Monadnock range, on the E. 

The Peterboro and Hillshoro R. U. runs N. 18 M. across Antrim {Carter 
House ; several summer boardiog-houses) and Bennington. Hillsborough, see 
page 196. 

Tiie Manchester and Keene li. 11. intersects this route at Hancock Junction., 
and is famous for its magnificent hill-scenery. It was opened in 1880, from Green- 
field to Keene, 30 M. 

Daily sraf^es from Peterboro to Dublin (summer boarding-houses of T. Morse, 
H. H. Leffingwell, .). Morse, G. A. Gowiug, J. H. Mason, S. Adams, Jr.), 1,500 ft. 
above the sea, with 300 summer- visitors, uear the lovely Mouaduock Lake and moun- 
tain, with grand Scottish scenery. 

66. Worcester to Portland. 

By the TVorcester, Nashua and Rochester, and Portland and Rochester Railroads. 
Trains connect through. A considerable amount of travel to the White Mts. also 
passes over this route. Worcester to Rochester, US M., fare, $ 3.10. Rochester to 
Portland, 52 M., fare, $ 1.65. 

Stations. H^orcestfr ^ Nashua R. R. Worcester to W. Boylston, 9 M ; Oak 
dale, 10; Sterling Junction, 12 ; Clinton, 17; S. Lanca-ster, 18 ; Lancaster, 19 ; Still 
Kiver, 23 ; Harvard, 25 : Ayer Junction, 28 ; Groton, 31 ; l»cpperell, 36 ; Hollis, 39 ; 
Nashiia, 46. Nashua ^ Roduster R. R. Hudson, 49; W. Windham, 53 ; Wind- 
ham, 57: ilampstead, 63; Sandown, 65; Fremont, 70; Epping. 74 ; Lee, SO; Rar- 
rington.SS; Gonic, 93 : Rochester, 95. Portland if Rochester R. R. E.Rochester, 
98; E I^banon, 104; Springvale, 111; Alfred, 115; S. Waterboro, 119; ("entro 
AVaterboro, 122^ ; Hollis Centre, 126^ ; Saco River, 129 ; Buxton Centre, 182; Gor- 
ham,137; Saccarappa, 141 ; Cumberland Mills, 142; Westbrook, 144^ ; Woodford's 
Corner, 145^; Portland, 147. 

For a description of the line between Norwich, Worcester, and Nashua, 
see pages 104-106. For the route between Rochester and Portland, see 
page 213. 

The train crosses the Merrimac River at Nashua, and runs N. W. across 
Hudson, a large farming town with 1,066 inhabitants and 3 churches. It 
then crosses the level lands of Mlndham, an ancient Presbyterian town 
which was originally settled by the Scotch-Irish from Londonderry. Tho 
hamlet of W. VVMndham is ^ M. S. E. of its station; and venerable old Lon- 
donderry is a little way to the N. At Windham the present route meets the 
Manchester & Lawrence R. R. (see page 279). Crossing Derry, the train 
reaches flampstead, a thinly-settled town devoted to farming, lumbering, 
and shoe-making. It was settled in 1728. Stages run 3 M. S. E. by W. 
IIam])stead to Hampstead, sind thence 6 M. by Atkinson to Atkinson 
Depot, on the Boston & Maine R. R. Picturesque Chester is a few miles 
N. W. 

Station, Sandon'7i, In a thinly-settled and r.ninteresting town, whenco 
daily stages run to Danville and E. Hampstead. Next conies the level 



NASHUA TO GREENFIELD. Route 67. 415 

town of Fremont (827 inhabitants), on the Squamscot River. Tri-weekly 
stages run 5J M. E. to Brentwood, a decadent rural town, and thence 5J 
M. E. to Exeter. At Epping the train cros?es the Portsmouth R. R., and then 
follows the Lamprev River through N. Epping into Lee (776 inhabitants). 
The hamlet of Wad"leigh's Falls, li M. S. E. of the station, was founded in 
1657; and near Wheelwright's Pond, in the N. part of the town, two com- 
panies of rangers nnder Capts. Floyd and VViswell were disastrously de- 
feated by the Indians, in 1690. Stages run 4 M. N. W. to Nottingham 
Square (Rockingham House), a pleasant old village on a high and pleasant- 
viewing hill. A short distance S. W. is the picturesque and island-studded 
Pawtuckawav Pond, covering 4^ square miles. The triple-headed Paw- 
tuckaway Mt. is also iu this town ; and Saddleback Mt. is to the W. in 
Northwood. 

The train runs rapidly across the pond-strewn town of Barrington to 
Gonic, a pleasant village devoted to the manufacture of woollen cloths. 
The next station is Rochester (see page 213). 

67. Nashua to Greenfield. 

By the Wilton Branch R. R., which has recently been prolonged 11 M.,by Lynde- 
borough to Greenfield. -_ yt-cu-^^ 

Stations. — Nashua to S. Merrimac, 7 M. ; Amherst, 11; Milford,l5; Wilton, 
18 ; Lyndeborough, 21 ; Greenfield, 26. 

Nashua to Wilton, see page 192. "Wilton has about 1,200 inhabitants, 
a savings-bank, library, 3 churches, and several summer boarding-houses. 
It manuftictures carpet-yarn, carpets, furniture, boots, and leather. Daily 
stages run 8 M. N. W. to Lyndeborough ; also to W. Wilton. Tri-weekly 
stages run 7 M. up the Souhegan Valley to Greenville (Columbian House; 
see also page 176), a pleasant village with cotton and furniture manufacto- 
ries. Semi-daily stages pass thence 3 M. S. W. to New Ipswich ( Clark's 
Hotel; Appleton House), a quiet summer-resort among high hills, contain- 
ing also the ancient Appleton Academy, a library, savings-bank, 3 
churches, and small factories. It was settled in 1749, under the name of 
Ipswich- Canada; and lost 26 men in the Civil War. Temple {Central 
House) is 7 M. from Wilton, and contains the rugged and far-viewing Tem- 
ple Mts. 

Beyond Wilton the train reaches S. Lyndeborough, where glassware is 
made from quartz rock. To the N. is Lyndeboro, a summer-haunt for city- 
people, near Centre Mt. From Greenfield station daily stages run S. W. 
to Peterborough, 7 M.; Hnrrisville, 15; Ndsun, 19; and Munsonville 22. 
Also W. 6 M. to Hancock (Jeiferson House), in a rugged farming town, 
studded with ponds; 13 M. to S. Stoddard (Weeks's Hotel); 19 M. to Stod- 
dard (Central House), in a hilly farming region; 25 RL to Marlow (Forest 
House), a rural village on the Ashuelot River; and 35 M. to Alstead (Hum- 
phrey House), near Bellows Falls. Stages connect at Marlow for agricul- 



41 G Route GS. MANCHESTER TO NORTH WEARE. 

tural Lempster (Forest House), 10-12 M. N.; also for Glbum (7 M. S. W.) 
and Surrey (Carpenter House), a rich old fsirming town. Daily stages also 
run N. W. from Greenfield to Bennington (Washinston House), 4 M. dis- 
tant, with cutlery and paper factories; Antrim { k\)\i\^Un\ House), 6 M., 
manufacturing sewing-silk and seed-sowers; N. Branch, 10 M. ; Ilills- 
horoiKjh (St. Charles Hotel), 13^ M. ; IF. Deering, 11 M. ; and Hills- 
horouyh Bridge (Valley House), an active village on the Contoocook River, 
with a bank, a paper, 2 churches, and manufactures to the extent of 
$350,000 a year (see also page 418). Stages run daily thence 12^ M. W. 
to Waslnngton (Lovel House), under Lovewell's i\It. Daily stages run 
from Greenfield 4^ M. N. E. to Francestown ( Francestow^n Hotel), a pleas- 
ant village with broad and well-shaded streets, a bank, academy, library, 
and church. It is near the dark heights of Crotched Mt. 

68. Manchester to North Weare. 

By the Manchester & N. Weare R. R., in 1 hr. Fare, 60 c. 

Stations. — IManchester to Bedford, 1 M. ; Goffstown Centre, 6 ; Goffstown,9; 
Parker's, 10 ; Oil Mills, 11 ; Raymond's, 15 ; E. Weare, 16 ; N. Weare, 19. 

The train crosses the Merrimac River, giving a fine view of the city of 
Manchester and its great factories. Bedford was one of the towns granted 
to and settled by the veterans of the Narragansett wars, and now supplies 
Manchester with milk and vegetables. Frequent views of the singular 
TJncanoonuc Mts. are given as the train advances. Goffstown (New- 
Hampshire Central Hotel) is a wealthy farming toAvn of 1,656 inhabitants, 
in whose S. \V. part are the remarkable hills called the Uncanoonucs, 
from whose crests the White Mts. are visible, with a wide sweep of the 
Merrimac Valley. 

Daily stages run 5 M. S. W. from Parker's station to Netv Boston 
(Columbian Hotel), a beautiful hamlet in a rural town of 1,241 inhabitants. 
Near the village is the bold Joe-English Hill, 572 ft. high, one of wdiose 
sides is formed by a rocky cliff. The summer-frequented towns of Mt. 
Vernon and Lyndeborough are on the S. Stages also run on ^londay, 
Wednesday, and Friday to Francestown. From Oil Mills stages run to 
S. Weare (Dearborn House) and Deering Centre. The terminus is at 
N. Weare (Collins House). Weare has 1,800 inhabitants, with 3 villages, 
5 churches, and a public library. It has many valuable farms, producing 
hay, wheat, and apples ; and manufactories of woollen goods, boots and 
slioes, etc. The scenery is pleasant, and attracts about 200 summer-visitors 
annually. Daily stages run W. to Henniker. A large summer-business 
is done along this line, and the Scribner-Hill and Shirley-Hill Houses, near 
Golfstown, are favorite resorts. Shirley Hill overlooks Manchester and 
the valley. The Devil's Fuljnt is a very interesting locality in Bedford. 



i 



PITTSFIELD, N. 11. Route 70. 417 

69. The Suncook Valley. 

By the Suncook -Valley R. R., in li hr. 

Stations. — Hooksett to Suncook, 21- M. ; Allenstown, 7; Short Falls, 10^; 
Epsom, 12^ ; Chichester, 15 ; Webster's Mills, 17 ; Pittsfield, 19^. 

The train leaves the main line of the Manchester & Concord R. R. at 
Hooksett and ci-osses the ]\Ierrimac River. Suncook {Suncook House; 
Pembroke) is a prosperous manufacturing village near the confluence of 
the Suncook and Merrimac Rivers, with cotton-mills employing 1,100 
hands, and using a capital of $1,700,000. It has 2 churches, a savings- 
l)ank, and a high-school. To the N., on the railroad to Concord, is PeTn-^ 
broke, a high-placed and decadent hamlet, with a wide street parallel with 
the river. Allenstoion is a dull rural town of 1,300 inhabitants, beyond 
which the course of the Suncook River is followed through an uneven 
grazing country. Epsom (Suncook- Valley House) is a iarming town of 900 
inhabitants, near Nottingham Mt, ; and Chichester (800 inhabitants) is 
also devoted to forming. Pittsfield ( Washington House) has about 1,200 
inhabitants, a bank, paper, academy, library, and 4 churches. It manu- 
factures boots and shoes, cotton cloth, and boards, and is prolific in wheat 
and milk. To the S. E. is the long ridge of Catamount Mt. (1,450 ft. 
high), whence the ocean may be seen, together with the great mountains 
on the N. 

Daily stages run from Pittsfield to the hamlets of Barnstead (Shackford House), a 
rich agricultural town on the N. ; also to Gilmnnton Iron- fVorks (Central House), 
near Alton Bay and Lougee's Pond; and Gilmnnton Arnderny (Washington House), 
a pleasant vilhtge near the Suncook Mts., with a venerable academy. The view 
from Peaked Hi i I is grand; and the Peaked-Hill House is i M. from the village. 
Many summer-visitors sojourn in this town (which is also reached from Tiltoa 
(10 M.) on the B., C. & M. R. R.). Tri-weekly stages also run E. to Strafford and 
Dover; and N. E. to Alton. 

Daily stages run 6 M. E. from Epsom to Nortliwood (Harvey Housp), a pic- 
turesque town, which is much visited by summer-tourists. It contains numerous 
ponds, and on the S. is the dark Saddleback Mt. The main road crosses Clark's 
Hill, whence the ocean is visible, and Brown's Hill is another favorite view-point. 
The village is on high ground, and has 3 churches, a library, academy, and semi- 
nary. In 1873 Northwood celebrated the centennial of her foundation. 

70. The Contoocook Valley. 

By the Concord & Claremont R. R. to Hillsborough Bridge. 

Concord to Contoocook, see page 196. At this point the valley line 
diverges to the S. W., and soon i-eaches W. llopkinton. To the E. is tlie 
beautiful village of Hopkinton, in a rich farming town of 1,819 inhabit- 
ants, prolific in corn, oats, potatoes, and dairy products. It was settled in 
1735, and came near being the capital of the State. Concord is 7^ M. E.; 
and Contoocook is 3 M. N. W., with 3 churches, an academy, a prosper- 
ous antiquarian society, and several factories. Putney Hill is 1 M. W. 
of llopkinton village, and is crowned by an ancient cemetery and the 
ruins of the Putney Fort. It is 500 ft. above the town, and gives a view 
is* A A 



418 Route 72. HTLLSBOROUGH BRIDGE. 

of the Contoocook and Merrimac Valleys, with their many villages, Mts. 

Sunapee, Monadnock, Kearsarge, Whiteface, Chocorua, Belknap, and 

others of the White Mts. 

Station Henniker {National Hotel), a neat and pleasant village, with 

shady streets, 2 churches, an academy, and a library. The fair rural 

scenery in the vicinity makes this a quiet summer-resort. Crany Hill is 

to the S., and Long Pond is 1 M. from the village. Henniker has many 

profitable farms and several factories. Hillsborougli Bridge ( Valley 

House) is a prosperous factory-village, with 2 churches, a paper, and a 

bank, and is surrounded by pleasant hill-scenery. Stages hence to K. 

Washington, 11 M.; Hillsborough; and Wasliington. The railroad runs 

S. to Antrim, Bennington, and Peterborough, connecting at Hancock 

Junction for Keene and Nashua. 

At Hillsborough Bridge is the mansion of Gov. Pierce, where Franklin Pierce was 
bom in 1804. He practised law in Concord for some years, was U. S Senator, 
1837-42, and Brig. -Gen. in the Mexican War. At the Democratic Convention of 
1852 he was nominated (on the 40th ballot) for the Presidency, and defeated Gen. 
Scott, the Whig candidate, by 254 electoral votes out of 296. During his adminis- 
tration Arizona was annexed, Kansas and Nebraska were opened to slavery, and the 
Ostond Manifesto (to Spain) was issued. Mr. Pierce favored the proslavery party, 
and sympathized with the Secessionists in the war of 1861-5. 

71. Portsmouth to Dover. 

By the Portsmouth & Dover Branch of the Eastern R. R., which was built 
betwen 1872 and 1874, at a cost of $ 700,000. The line is singular on account of 
its numerous pile-bridges, on and near the Piscataqua River, one of which is 1,906 
ft. long. 

In leaving Portsmouth the train runs through Newington, a small farm- 
ing town of 414 inhabitants, with good soil near the surrounding waters. 
This town was formerly known as Bloo<ly Point, in memory of a dis- 
astrous attack made upon it (in 1G90) by Hopehood and his merciless 
Indian bands. Newington station is 4 M. from Portsmouth, and beyond 
it the train crosses the Piscataqua Uiver to the Dover-Point station, which 
is near the site of the earliest European settlement in New Hampshire. 
Cushing's station is near the Gushing estate; and Sa?w?/er's is near Saw- 
yer's Mills. The train next runs through a more thickly settled region, 
and soon reaches the terminus of the route. 

Dover, see page 281. 

72. Portsmouth to Manchester and Concord. 

By the Portsmouth R. R , in 2^-3 hrs. Fare, § l.CO. The station in Portsmouth 
is near that of the Eastern 11. R. 

Stations. — Portsmouth to Greenland, 4 M. ; Brackctt's ; Stratham, 8; New- 
market .lunction, 10; K. Epping; Epping, 18; W. Epping : Raymond, 23; Candia, 
20 ; .\uburn, 33 ; Massabesic, 36 ; Manchester, 41 ; Hooksett, 51 ; Concord, 59. 

The line soon crosses the Eastern R. R., and runs S. W. to Greenland 
(Brackett's Hotel), a rich farming and fruit-growing town, which is much 
visited in summer. There are 695 inhabitants here, being less tluin there 
were a century ago. The village is f M. from the station. The train 



SALEM TO LAWRENCE. limiteTS. 419 

next runs near the broad and land-locked salt-water lake called Great 
Bay, and crosses the level and fertile fruit-raishig town of Stratham. 
Stratliani Hill overlooks Great Bay and the ocean, and views the White 
Mts., in the N. Beyond the Squamscot River the line crosses the Boston 
& jMaine R. R. at Newmarket Junction. 1 M. S. is S. Newmarket 
(Shute House), with large iron, machine, and engine works; and 2 M. N. 
is Newmarket (Washington House), a large trading village, on the Piscat- 
aqua River, where clothing, cotton cloth, and boots and shoes are made. 

Ei^Tping (Pawtuckaway fMise) is a pleasant village in a good farming 
region, with small fiictories and three churches. 1 M. N. is the ancient 
main street, with several antiquated mansions. Epping has been declin- 
ing in population for over a century. At this point the track is crossed 
by the Nashua & Rochester R. R. W. Epping has two small mills. 
i2a«/niore(f ( Central House ; Eagle) is in a farming town of 1,121 inhabit- 
ants, and has 3 churches and an academy. A short distance S. W. is 
Chester (stages from Derry), a bright and pleasant village where visitors 
from the cities find summer-rest. 

Station, Candia, whose village is on a high ridge whence may be seen 
the White Mts., Mt. Wachusett, the Plum-Island lights (at night), and the 
ocean. This town was first named Chnr ruing fare, on account of its pleas- 
ant location; and its present name was given in honor of Gov. Wentworth, 
who was once in captivity on the Mediterranean island of Candia. 

Semi-daily stages run N. to DeerfleW, a large and fertile farming and orchard 
town of 1,768 inhabitants, where numerous city-people rusticate. It was settled in 
175i), and lost 18 men in the Revolution and 48 in the Rebellion. There are several 
fish abounding ponds, and some picturesque mountains, the chief of which are Paw- 
tuckaway, Saddleback Mt., and Fort Mt. Gen. B. F. Butler was born here, in 18itt. 

Beyond Auburn station the train passes the summer-resort at Lake 

Massabesic (see page 193) and soon enters the city of Manchester. From 

tliis point the train follows the Concord R. R. (page 194) up the Merrimac 

River to Concord. 

73. Salem to Lawrence. 

By the Lawrence Branch of the Eastern R. R. 

Stations. — Salem ; Peabody ; Danversport ; Danvers ; Swan's Crossing; Mid- 
dletou ; Boxford ; Sutton's Mills ; Lawrence. 

On leaving Salem the train follows the course of the North River to Pea- 
body {Simonds's Hotel), a prosperous town of 8,000 iidiabitants, with 2 
banks, 6 churches, a paper, and the richly-endowed Peabody Institute, 
(see page 253). The valuation is about S 6,000,000; and the chief industry 
is tanning and currying hides, in which 400 men are employed. George 
Peabody was born here, in 1795, in a house wiiich is still preserved; and 
the town was named in his honor in 1868. The village is pleasant, and in 
its vicinity are several high hills and small lakes. Near this station the 
S. Reading and Salem & Lowell Railroads diverge to the 1. 



420 Route74. DANVERS. 

The Lawrence line runs N. over Crane Brook, to Danversport, a coal 
and lumber shipping-point on Porter's River. Danvers station is at the 
shoe-manufacturing village of Danvers Plains, where the Newburyport R. 
R. is ci'ossed. The Peabody Institute is in Peabody Park, on Sylvan St., 
and has a public library and lecture-hall. In this vicinit}' is the Walnut- 
Grove Cemetery, beyond which is Danvers Centre, wiih its carpet-factory. 
Opposite the town-hall is the soldiers' monument. The town contains 
over 6,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, a paper, bank, high-school, and 
about 150 farms, famous for prolific apple-orchards. The ancient witch- 
craft delusion arose in this town (see page 254). 

The new * Massacliusetts Hospital for the Insane is on a bold hill near 
the S wall's- Crossing station, and is reached by a sinuous and costly mac- 
adamized road 6,000 ft. long, with a grade of 3J ft. in 100. It is a con- 
nected pile of ten immense brick buildings, in Elizabethan architecture, 
with several towers, double walls, cement floors, zinc roofs, fan ventila- 
tion, and steam heating-apparatus. It is 200 ft. above the adjacent town, 
with abundant sunlight and air, and commands a superb view, including 
the ocean, the environs of Boston, and scores of villages and cities, with 
Wachusett, Monadnock, and other conspicuous mountains in the W. and 
N, W. The buildings and furniture cost $1,620,000, and are fitted for 600 
patients, who are housed and fed far more luxuriously than the average 
tax -payer and citizen. 

The train next crosses the Ipswich River to MidcUeton, a small hamlet 
with one church, in a farming town of 1,092 inhabitants. The diversified 
rural town of Boxford lies to the N. of the line, and has 834 inhabitants. 
The train next enters iV. Andover, passing the bold Woodchuck Hill and 
crossing the outlet of Great Pond; meets the Boston & Maine R. R. at Sut- 
ton's Mills ; and crosses the Merrimac River to Lawrence. 

Lawrence, see page 278. 

. 74. Boston to Amesbury. 

By the Eastern R. R. and its Amesbury Branch. Boston to Newburyport, 37 M. ; 
Salisbury, 39 ; Amesbury, 43. 

Boston to Newburyport, see pages 248-258. The Amesbury train is 
taken at the Eastei*n station, and crosses the Merrimac River on a high 
bridge, whence the city and the ocean are visible on the r. The first sta- 
tion is near the ancient hamlet of E. Salisbury, whence stages run to Salis- 
bury Beach (see page 260). The train now diverges from the Eastern 
lino, and runs W., Avith views of the upper part of Newburyport on the 1. 
Tlie Salisbury-Point station is near the boat-building vilhige of the same 
name, and also near the quaint and ancient Pocky-Hill church. 

Amesbury {American House) is a prosperous manufacturing village on 
the falls of the Powwow River, with large woollen and cotton mills and 
other industries. It has 4 churches, 2 banks, a paper, and a high-school. 



PALMER TO WINCHENDON. Route75. 421 

and the adjacent farms are prolific in milk and vegetables. The town 
has about 3,000 inhabitants, and the adjacent town of Salisbury has 
about 3,800. Powwow Hill is just N. of the village, and is 323 ft, high. 
It commands a famous * view, including the ocean, Cape Ann, the 
Ipswich hills, the long strip of Plum Island, the picturesque city of New- 
buryport, the Isles of Shoals, Mt. Agamenticus, the long curves of the 
blue Merrimac River, and a great area to the N. and W., including even 
the distant White j\Its. Daily stages run from Amesbur}^ to the carriage- 
manufacturing village of W. Amt&bury (5 M. W.), near Kimball's Pond 
and Brandy-brow Hill. A brunch railroad runs thence to Newton, on the 
Boston & IMaine R. R. 

John Greenleaf Whittier, " the Quaker Poet " (born at Haverhill in 1807), has 
lived in Amesbury since 1840. His earlier years were spent iu farming and journal- 
ism ; and he was a fearless pioneer of the cause of Antislavery, to whose advance- 
ment his life was devoted. He is peculiarly the poet of New England, and has writ- 
ten admirable descriptions of its rural life and scenery. The ancient towns of Essex 
North and the surrounding seas have been richly illustrated by his Icgeudaxy 
poems, especially by " Suow-Bouud," " The Tent ou the Beach," and " The Ballads 
of New England." 

75. Palmer to Winchendon. 

By the Ware-River Railroad in 49 M. Fare, S1.55 ; time, 2-3 hrs. 

Stations. — Palmer to Thorndike, 4 M. ; Ware, 12; Gilbertville, 16 ; Old Fur- 
nace, 21 ; Barre Plains, 24 ; Coldbrook, 27 ; Williamsville, 33 ; Templeton, 39 ; Bald- 
winsville, 43 ; Waterville, 47 ; Winchendon, 49 

The line runs N. through the pleasant glens of Palmer, and the New- 
London Northern Railroad .soon diverges to tlie 1. The course of the Ware 
River is followed, and beyond the hamlet of Thorndike the Pattaquattic 
Ponds and Hill are seen on the r. Rounding the latter the train soon 
reaches Ware {Hampshire House), where 900 operatives are engaged in 
cotton and woollen mills. The village is picturesquely situated near the 
foot of Colonel's Mt. (1,172 ft. high) and other bold highlands. This town 
has 4,142 inhabitants, 6 churches, a bank, a library, and a grange. 

The soil of Ware is singular, even in New England, for its hardness and sterility. 
It was granted to a comirany of tlie veterans of King Philip's War, but after due 
examination they sold it for two cents an acre. President Dwight rode through the 
town, nnd said of the land," It is like self-rightcousuess ; the more a man has of it, 
the poorer he is." The poetic account of the genesis of Ware asserts that 

" Dame Nature once, while makin? land, 
Had refuse left of stone and sand . 
She viewed it well, then threw it down 
Between Gov s Hill and Bolchertown, 
And said, ' Yi)u paltry stuff, lie there. 
And make a town, and call it Ware.' " 

The line next traverses a long valley, and enters Hardwick (Hardwick 
House), a large dairy-town with several prosperous paper and woollen 
mills. Gilbertville is a manufacturing village under Mt. Dougal, whence 
stages run N. to Hardwick Centre in 2^ M. Beyond Old Furnace the train 
soon i-eaches Barre Plains {Afassasoit Hotel), whence stage?- run to Barre, 
3 ^I. N. This town has 2,400 inhabitants, 5 churches, a library, news- 



422 RoxdelG. SPRINGFIELD TO ATIIOL. 

paper, high-school, and soldiers' monument. The soil is good, and there 
are many dairy and pasture farms and valuable forests. The factories 
make cotton and woollen goods, boots and shoes, and palm-leaf hats. 

Daily stages run from Carre to Dana, 7 M. W. ; and to Pfters/mrn, 8 M. N. W., a 
lofty and ancient farming town where Gen. Lincoln defeated Shays's rebel forces, in 
1787, and where Samuel Willard (the musician) and Dr. Austin Flint were born; 
also from Coldbrook station to Coldljrook Springs (•Sanitarium), J M. S. E , 
valuable mineral-waters in the picturesque town of Oakham. 

The line now runs N. up the valley of the Burntshirt River, through a 
hilly and thinly-settled region, passing William sville and soon reaching 
Templtton Centre (two hotels), the chief village of a farming town of 2,764 
inhabitants, with 6 churches, a high-school, and several small factories. 

Stages run 4 M. W. to Phillipston, a highly diversified farming town with a pub- 
lic library and a soldiers' monument (to 13 dead) ; also 4 M. E. to E. TnnjilUon 
and <S. Gardner. Tenipleton was granted to veterans of the Narragansett War. 

At DaUhvinsville the Fitchburg Railroad is crossed, and the train runs 
N. by Waterville to Wincheiidon (see page 413), where it meets the 
Cheshire & Monadnock and the Boston, Barre &, Gardner Railroads. 

76. Springfield to Atliol. 

stations. —Springfield to Indian Orchard, 6^ M. ; Ludlow, 7i ; Collins, lOJ ; 
Red Bri<lgo; Three Rivers, 16| ; Barrett\s Junction, 17^ ; Pondsville, 19 ; W. Ware, 
19; Enfield, 27; Smith's, 28: Greenwich, 30^; Greenwich Village, 32; N. Dana, 
38; New Salem, 40; S. Athol, 43; Athol, 48^. 

The line runs out from Springfield to the N. E., and soon reaches the 

pleasant village of Indian Orchard, beyond which it crosses the Chicopee 

River, near Jenckesville, a prosperous factory-village. Ludlmo is 3 M. N. 

of its station (daily stages), in the centre of a farming town of 1,222 

inhabitants, with a handsome soldiers' monument. The train follows the 

Chicopee River, and slowly rounds the massive ]\Iinechoag Mt. (on the 1.). 

Beyond Three Rivers it intersects the New-London Nortliern Railroad 

{Honlo 12), at BarreWs Junction, and ascends the Swift-River valley by 

Bondsville, through a rolling country. Enfield (SwMft-Rivcr House) is a 

nu-al hamlet in a farming and dairy town of 1,065 inhabiiants, among 

high and wooded ridges. 

Tri-wecklv stages run N. W. to the failing moiintnin-hamlcts of Prrsrott (b M.) 
and Pdhfmi(^^].). ]Mt. Ell and Rattlesnake Mt. are in Prescott ; and in relham 
(Pelham Hotel) i.s Mt. Lincoln. 

Grfiniwirh (Greenwich Hotel) is just N. of Mt. Lizzie, in a rural town of C06 
inhabitants, occupying the old Indian domain of Quabin. The line next traverses 
the hill-country to iY Dana (small hotel), near Neeseponsett Pond. Daily stages 
run S. E. to Dana (f) M.) and ]5arrc (12 M.). From Ncw-Salem station daily stjipea 
run N. W. to Aew Salnn (Xew-Salem llous<-), a highlnnd hamlet ncnr the lolty 
Packard's Mt Deyond R. Athol the tniin readies Atliol (Siimvnl Hotel, a large 
smnmer-rcsorl), at tlie iiitersectiuii of (he Fitililuirg Ilailrond. Athol is a pretty 
and growing village, witli 2 banks, 5 thnrclies, a ingh sclnu 1, and several fire resi- 
dences. The water-power of Miller's River is utilized for manufactories of cotton 
and wnoilcn goods, pahi\-lc if li its, paper, scyt^Kis, castings, slioes, and other articles. 
The town has nearly 2'.t0 productive larui», with 4,134 inhabitants. 



MILFOKD SPRINGS. Route 77. 423 



77. Nashua to Keene. 

Sf-ations. — Nashua to S. Merrimack, 5 M. ; Amherst, 8 ; Milford, 11 ; Wilton, 
15; S. Lyndeboro, 19; Greenfield, 26; S. Lenuington, 30 ; Hancock .Function, 31 ; 
Hancock, 35; E. Harrisville, 39 ; ilarrisville, 42 ; \V. Harrisville, 45 ; Jlarlboro', 49 ; 
Keene, 56. See also page 192. Semi-daily stages run from Amherst station to the 
venerable village of Amherst {Amherst House), 3 J M. N. W., with a soldiers' 
mouument ou its ceutral common. Stages also from Amherst station, 1^-2 M. to 

: t*^ 3 Milford Springs 

(* Hotel Ponemah, built in 1883, and run by Barnes and Dunklee, of the 
Hotel Brunswick, Boston), high up on the hills, and commanding an ex- 
tensive view down the Merrimack Valley, and over lines of distant hills and 
leagues of forests. The medicinal virtues of these springs were discovered 
in 1818, after a series of angelic apparitions near their site (such is the 
rural legend). They became very popular as a remedy for cutaneous 
diseases, rheumatism, debility, dyspepsia, and other maladies, and were 
visited annually by thousands of invalids. 

The old hotel still stands at the foot of the hill, upon which the Hotel 
Ponemah was built in 1883, with all the luxuries of a first-class house, 
wide piazzas, airy halls, open fireplaces, gas lights, electric bells, barber- 
shop, billiards, livery-stable, etc. There are pleasant rambles in the adja- 
cent forest, beyond the quaint little pavilions over the springs. Vast 
quantities of the Milford water are sent to the cities, and used medicinally 
or for a table-water. The Ponemah water has but 3 grains of mineral 
matter in a gallon, and is one of the purest waters known, of great virtue in 
cases of dyspepsia, rheumatism, and other organic troubles. The Milford 
is another very pure spring, rich in natural salts and carbonic acid ; and 
tlie Iron and Magnesia Springs are tonic, and recuperative in their prop- 
erties. The Hotel Ponemah is 700 ft. above the sea, amid fragrant pine- 
groves, and near a charming country hill-road. 

Mont Vernon {Conant Hall, GO guests ; Bellevue House, 50 ; Stmset House ; 
Campbell's, Deacon Sterrett's. etc., 5? 6 10 a week), 4 - 5 M. from Milford station 
(seuii-daily stage), and 7 M. from the Ponemah, is a pretty bill-top hamlet, 1,000 ft. 
above the sea, with grand views and interesting drives (see also page 192). It has 
many summer- visitors , and is but 4 M from Joe-English Hill, in New Boston. 

A pleasant drive of 5^ M. leads from the Ponemah to Hollis, the an- 
cient Nissitisset, a deeply embowered farming-village. There are other 
attractive drives to Amherst, 4^ M. ; Nashua, 9 ; Barnes' Falls, 9 ; Lake 
Baboosic, 10; Lake Potonapa, 7; Purgatory Falls, 8; etc. 

From Amherst station the train ascends the Souhegan valley, by the 
busy village of Milford, to Wilton station, whence daily stages run to 
Wilton, 2i M.; W. Wilton, 4; and Greenville, 8 M. 

Wilton to Greenfield, ste \yci'i£'i 415. 



424 Route 78. LEOMINSTER. 



78. Fitchburg to Providence and New Bedford. 

This is a favorite route between Vermont and New Hampshire, on the 
N., and Southeastern Massachusetts, Cape Cod, Martha's Vineyard, and 
Nantucket, on the S. and E. Trains from Fitchburg to New Bedford in 
1 i - 2 hrs. 

The train runs S. E. from Fitchburg down the picturesque Nashua 
valle}' to Leominster {Leominster Hotel), an ancient and attractive manu- 
facturing village among the hills. From PratVs Junction a branch diverges 
to Sterling and Worcester; and the present route runs S. E. to carpet- 
making Clinton {Clinton House), where it crosses the Worcester, Nashua, 
and Rochester Railroad. From Bolton Depot semi-daily stages run 3 M. 
N. E. to Bolton, famous for its rural beauty, rich farms, and far-viewing 
hills. In Berlin (Belmont House) the moribund JNIass. Central R. R. is 
crossed. The next station is Northborouyh (Norlhborough Hotel), sur- 
rounded by noble hills, and containing several churches and a soldiers* 
monument. Marlborough {Central House) is a rich farming and shoe- 
making town of D, ()()() inhabitants, with 2 papers, 7 churches, and sol- 
diers' monument. Here stood a village of Eliot's Christian Indians; and 
King Philip's warriors attacked the place in 167G. (Branch line hence 
to S. Acton.) Southborough is a lovely rural hill-town, with a soldiers' 
monument on the green in front of the Congregational Church. Here is 
the Episcopal St. Mark's School, with its handsome stone chapel; and 
near the village is Burnett's famous Deerfoot Farm. Fayville is a shoe- 
making village. Frainingham, see page 125. At S. Framingham, the 
line crosses the Boston and Albany R. R. (Route 21), and other routes 
diverge to Milford (see page 125), and Lowell (see page 125). The New- 
Bedford train runs S. E. 3 M. to Sherborn, an apple-bearing town, near 
the Woman's Prison of Massachusetts. The train next crosses the Charles 
River, and at Medfield Junction intersects the N. Y. & N. E, R. R. 
(W^oonsocket Division). Medfield {Medjield Hotel) is a handsome vil- 
lage, where straw hats and bonnets are made (see page 120). At Walpole 
(Walpole Hotel), formerly a part of Dedham, the N. Y. & N. E. R. R. 
main line is crossed. Beyond S. Wnlpole and the Neponset River is 
Foxborough {Cocasset House), manufacturing straw goods, and adorned 
with a granite memorial hall. At Mansfield, the Boston and Providence 
R. R. is crossed ; and the train runs thence S. E. across Norton to Taun- 
ton, and Weir Junction, connecting there for Cape Cod or Fall River; 
and thence to New Bedford (see page 90). 



CAMDEN. Route 79. 425 



79. The Maine Sea-Coast. 

Camden {Bay-View House ; Ocean House) is a beautiful seashore resort 
8 M. from Rockland (daih' communication by Boston and Bangor steam- 
ers), with costly summer-villas, large boarding-houses, and pleasant islands 
and beaches. Here, also, are several shipyards and the largest anchor- 
foundry in America. Near by is £l range of very picturesque and lofty 
mountains, visible from far off at sea, and affording amid its defiles fine 
bits of Tyrolese scenery. The precipice-fringed Mt. Megunticook, 1,205 
ft. high, commands a vast sea-view; and Mt. Batty overlooks Penobscot 
Bay as far as Mt. Desert and Matiuicus. The scenery about LlncolnvUle 
Fond, Ragged Mt., and elsewhere on the inland drives, is full of beauty 
and interest. 

Kockport (Carleton House, $7-10 a week), 1-2 M. from Camden, is 
a rugged ship-building and lime-burning hamlet, with charming marine 
scenery, and drives to Beech Hill, Jameson's Point, and Camden (tine 
scenery on the shore-road). Within a few years Camden and Rockport 
have become well-known as summer-resorts, and have many handsome 
cottages on their hills and headlands (see also page 317). 

Northport ( Waverley House), a summer-port of the Boston and Bangor 
and other steamers, is a sea-fronting bluff crowned by hundreds of summer- 
cottages, between the pretty hamlet of Saturday Cove and Belfast, and 
1 M. by carriage-road from the sea-viewing summit of INIt. Percival. This 
locality was occupied as a Methodist camp-meeting ground in IS^S, and 
is still the site of enthusiastic camp-meetings (in August). 

Monhegan {Mrs. W. L. Albee^s boarding-house) has a lighthouse (200 
ft. above the sea), a chapel, a schoolhouse, and HO inhabitants. It covers 
about 1,000 acres (1| by 1 M.), and has very bold shores, looming nobly 
above the adjacent seas, and several leagues from the nearest point of the 
mainland. Several vessels are owned by the islanders. There is much 
notable scenery here, and very impressive rocky and surf-beaten shores, 
with views from the hills over a vast circuit of blue sea. The Monhcgau 
mail-boat sails from S. St. George every Tuesday and Friday; the Booth- 
bay steamboats often make excursions to it ; and Mrs. Albee, on receiv- 
ing ''a few days' notice," will send a boat to the mainland for guests. 
(See also page 316.) 

Squirrel Island {Chase Hotise, 75 guests) is reached by small steamers, 
running several times daily from Bath, 15 M., through a delightful archi- 
pelago, and down deep salt-water fiords, by "VYestport, Five Islands, and 
other quaint little stopping-places. Boothbay {BuotJibay House ; Wey- 
mouth), the terminus of the route, is a gray-wharved old fishing-village, 
with a romantic history. Out in its harbor the steamer tuuches at Capitol 



426 Route 79. LOWELL. 

Island (Sidney House) and Mouse Island (Samoset House, 150 guests, 
$7 -15 a week), small islets favored by many summer-visitors. Squirrel 
Island, 3 M. from Boothbay, and fronting the sea, has 1,000 inhabitants 
in summer, all of them pleasure-seekers, who find rare entertainment in 
boating and fishing, and rambling about the picturesque shores and 
beaches. The Squirrel-Island Squid is a bright summer newspaper, in 
which the gossip of the place is printed, and the fascinating legends of the 
adjacent coasts. Ocean Point {Ocean-Point House; Millnoket), on the 
adjacent main, 6 M. from Boothbay, has many summer-cottages. 

Samoset Island, Saioyer^s Island (Sawj'er's-Island House), and other 
localities in this region receive many summer-voyagers. 

The fare from Boston, by boat, to Bath and Boothbay and back, is ^2.50. 

Fort Popham and Hunnewell's Neck, at the mouth of the Kennebec 
(steamboat from Bath), are the sites of new summer-cottage colonies, with 
the Eureka House (75 guests; $7-10 a week) as their centre. Farther 
down, at Small Point, is the Allaquippa House ($5-7 a week). Mere 
Point, running into the sea below Brunswick, is another newly developed 
resort; and the inns of Harpswell (daily stages from Brunswick), have 
many summer-guests, attracted by the scenery, which Harriet Beecher 
Stowe says "has more varied and singular beauty than can ordinarily 
be found on the shores of any land whatever." 

Grand Manan (Marble-Ridge House, at North Head; and many inex- 
pensive boarding-houses), a Canadian island, 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, 
with 3,000 inhabitants, 10 schools, 8 churches, and valuable fisheries, is 
reached by steamboat in 2 hrs. from East port, connecting with the Inter- 
national steamers. It has wonderful cliff and coast scenery, good trout- 
fishing and hunting, many legends, good roads, several quaint hamlets, 
and other interesting objects, which attract numbers of artists here every 
year. It was settled by Loyalists from Massachusetts. 

Campobello (*The Owen; The Tyn-y-Coedd, large and luxurious new 
summer-hotels, built by Boston capital) is a Canadian island, 8 by 3 M. in 
area, with 1,600 inhabitants, two fishing-villages, picturesque beaches, 
headlands, uplands, evergreen forests, and sea-swept coves. The island 
was granted in 1767, by England, to Admiral Owen, whose family occu- 
pied the domain for over a century. The traditions of this regime are full 
of vivid interest, and meet one at every turn. In 1880 the last of the 
Owens abandoned the manor-house ; and the island was purchased by an 
American syndicate, and liberally advertised as a summer-resort, great 
hotels having been built, new roads opened, and cottages erected. Hourly 
steamers run between Campobello and Eastport. 



AN 



ITINERARY OF NEW ENGLAND. 



SHOWING THE STATIONS AND DISTANCES ON THE 
CHIEF RAILROADS. 



Boston to Newport and New York. 

Route 3. Page 36. The Old Colony R. R. 

Stations. — Boston to Savin Hill, 3 M. ' Harrison Square, 3|; Neponset, 5; 
Atlantic, 5^; Wollastou, 6^; Quincy, 8; Quincy Adams, 8} ; Braiiitree, 10; S. 
Braintree, 11^ (branch to Plymouth, 37^}; Holbrook, 15; E. Stoughtou, 16| ; N. 
Bridgewater,*'2(); Campello, 21^; Mattield, 23 J; E. and W. Bridgewater, 25; 
Bridgewater, 27 ; Titicut, 30 ; Middleboro', 34 ; Lakeville, 36 ; Myrick's, 42 ; As- 
sonet, 45 ; Fall River, 49 ; Tiverton, 54 ; Bristol Ferry, 56 ; Newport, 68 ; New- 
York (by steamer), 230. 

Boston to Duxbury. 

Rorite 4. Page 48. The Old Colony and S. Shore R. Rs. 
Stations. — Boston to Braintree, 10 M. ; E. Braintree, 11 ; Weymouth, 11^ ; 
N. Weymouth, 13; E. Weymouth, 14^; W. Hingham, 1G| ; Hingham, 17i; Old 
Colony House, 18; Nantasket, 19; Cohasset, 21^; N. Scituate, 23; Egypt, 24; 
S.cituate, 26; S. Scituate, 28; E. Marshtield, 30 ; Sea View, 31; Marshfield Centre, 
32; Marshfield, 34; Webster Place, 36; Duxbury, 38; S. Duxbury, 39. 

Boston to Plymouth. 

Route 5. Page 51. Old Colony R. R. 
Stations. — Boston ; S. Braintree, llj M. ; S. Wej'month, 15; N. Abington, 
18; Abington, 19'-; S. Abington, 21^; N. Hanson, 231; Hanson, 24|; Halifax, 
28i ; Plympton, 30 ; Kingston, 33i ; Plymouth, 37^. 

Boston to Cape Cod. 

Route 6. Page 54. Old Colony R. R. 
Stations. —Boston; Middleboro', 34 M. ; Rock, 39; S. Middleboro', 42; Tre- 
mont, 45 ; S. Wareham, 47 ; Wareham, 49 ; Agawam, 61 ; Cohasset Narrows, 54 



428 ITINERARY. 

(l)rancli to Wood's Hole, 72) ; Monument, 55 ; N. Sandwich, 58 ; W. Sandwich, 
59 ; Sandwicli, G2 ; W. Banistahle, 69 ; Barnstal)le, 73 ; Yarmouth, 75 (branch to 
Hyannis, 79); S. Yarmouth, SO; S. Dennis, 81; N. Harwicli, 83; Hanvich, 84; 
Brewster, 89; E. Brewster, 92; Orleans, 94; Eastham, 97; S. Wellfleet, 103; 
Wellfleet, 106; S. Truro, 109; Truro, 111! N. Truro, 114; Provincetown, 120. 



Boston to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. 

Route 7. Page 58. Old Colony R. R. and Stemners. 
Stations. — Boston; Cohasset Narrows, 54 M. ; N. Falmouth, 61; W. Fal- 
moath ; Falmouth, 68 ; Wood's Hole, 71 ; (steamer to) Martha's Vineyard, 78 j 
(steamer to) Nantucket, 116. 

Boston to Providence and New York. 

Route 8. Page 62. Boston & Providence, Stonington d: Providence, New 
Haven, New London <fc Stonington, and N. Y. <fc New Haven R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston ; Roxbnry, 2 M.; Jamaica Plain, 3^; Forest Hill, 5; 
Readville, 8.} ; Canton, 14 ; Sharon, 17^ ; E. Foxboro', 21| ; Mansfield, 24 ; W. 
Manslield, 26; Attleboro', 31 ; Dodgeville, 32; Pawtucket, 39; Providence, 43^ ; 
Auburn, 49 ; Hill's Grove, 53 ; Greenwich, 58 ; Wickford, 64 ; Kingston, 71 ; 
Carolina, 77 ; Richmond Switch, 80 ; Niantic, 84 ; Westerly, 88 ; Stonington, 94 ; 
Mystic, 97; W. Mystic, 98; Noauk, 102; Poquonnock Switch, 103; Groton ; New 
London, 106. Shore Lme. — Waterford, 109; E. Lyme, 113; S. Lyme, 118; 
Lyme, 122 ; Conn. River, 123 ; Saybrook, 125 ; Westbrook, 128 ; Clinton, 133 ; 
Madison, 136; Guilford, 140; Stony Creek, 145; Bran ford, 148 ; Fairhaven, 154 ; 
New Haven, 156. N. Y. & New Haven Division. — West Haven, 15S| ; Milford, 
165; Naugatuck Junction, 168; Stratford, 170; Bridgeport, 173 ; Fairfield, 178 ; 
Sou'thport, 180 ; Westport, 184; S. Nor^valk, 187 ; Darien, 191; Noroton, 192^ ; 
Stamford, 195 ; Cos Cob Bridge, 199 ; Greenwich, 200 ; Port Chester, 203 ; Rye, 
205; Mamaroneck, 208; New Rochelle, 212; Mount Vernon, 215; Williams' 
Bridge, 218 ; New York, 230. 

Boston to New Bedford. 

Route 9. Page 90, Boston <h Providence and Neio Bedford R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston ; Mansfield, 24 M. ; Norton, 28 ; Crane's, 31 ; Whittenton, 
84; Taunton, 35; Weir Junction, 36; Middlcboro' Junction, 39: Myrick's, 41; 
Howland's, 44 ; E. Freetown, 46 ; Braley's, 48 ; Acushnet, 52 ; New Bedford, 55. 

Providence to "Worcester. 

Route 10, Page 93. Prov. & Wor. R. R. 
Stations. — Providence; Pawtucket, 4 M. ; Valley Falls, 6; Lonsdale, 7; 
Ashton, 9.^; Albion, 11; Manville, 12; Woonsocket, 16; Waterford, 17; Black- 
stone, 18 ; Millville, 20 ; Uxbridge,25 ; Whitin's, 26 ; North bridge, 31 ; Farnum s, 
33; Saundersville, 34; Sutton, 35; Millbury, 37; Worcester Junction, 42; 
Worcester, 43. 

Providence to Hartford and Waterbury. 

Route 11. Pac/c 94. Hartford, Providence, <fc Fishkill R. R- 
Stations. — Providence ; Cranston, 4 M. ; Oak Lavm, 7; Katick, 8; River 
Point, 11 ; C^uidniok, 13 ; VVashiugtou, 14 ; Summit, 22 ; Greene, 24 ; Oueco, 27 ; 



ITINERARY. 429 

Sterling, 29 ; Moosup, 32 ; Plainfleld, 35 ; Canterbury, 40 ; Baltic, 48 ; Scotland, 
51 ; S. Windham, 55 ; Willimantic, 58 ; Andover, 07 ; Bolton, 73 ; Vernon, 74 ; 
Manchester, 81 ; B. Hartford, SS ; Hartford, 90 ; Newington, 95 ; New Britain, 99 ; 
Plainville, 104 ; Foiestville, 106 ; Bristol, 108 ; Terryville, 112 ; Hoadley's, 119 ; 
Waterville, 121 ; Waterbury, 123. 

New London to Vermont. 

Route 12. Page 96, New London Northern R. R. 

Stations. — New London ; Waterford, 3 ; Montville, 6 ; Massapeag, S ; Mohegan, 
10; Thamesville, 12; Norwich, 13; Yantic, 17; Franklin, 20; Lebanon, 23; S. 
Windhani, 26 ; Willimantic, 30 ; Eagleville, 36 ; Mansfield, 38 ; Merrow, 40 ; Tol- 
land, 44; Stailbrd, 50; EUithorpe, 53; S. Moason, 60; Monson, 61; Palmer, 05 ; 
Three Rivers, 68 ; Barrett's, 70 ; Belchertown, 78 ; Dwight's, 80 ; Amherst, 85 ; 
Leverett, 90 ; S. Montague, 95 ; Miller's Falls, 100 ; Northlield Farms, 103 ; North- 
field, 109 ; S. Vernon, 111 ; Vernon, 116; Brattlcboro', 121 ; Montpelier, 249; Bur- 
lington, 289; St. Albans, 306 ; Montreal, 369. 

Norwich to Nashua. 

Route 13. Page 104. Nor. cD Wor. and Wor. <t' Nashua R. Rs. 

Stations. — Norwich ; Greenville, 2 ; Jewett City, 10 ; Plainfield Junction, 
16 ; Central Village, 20 ; Wauregan, 21 ; Danielsonville, 26 ; Daysville, 29 ; Put- 
nam, 34 ; Thompson, 36 ; Grosvcnor Dale, 39 ; N. Grosvenor Dale, 40 ; Webster, 
44 ; N. Webster, 45 ; Oxford, 49 ; N. Oxford, 51 ; Auburn, 56 ; Worcester Junc- 
tion, 59 ; Worcester, 00 ; W. Boylstou, 69 ; Oakdale, 70 ; Sterling Junction, 72 ; 
Clinton, 77 ; S. Lancaster, 78 ; Lancaster, 79 ; Still River, 83 ; Harvard, 85 ; Ayer 
Junction, 83 ; Groton, 91 ; Peppereil, 96 ; Hollis, 99 ; Nashua, 106. 



,', Deep 

Walkley 
■ Rocky 



New Haven to Northampton. 

Route 15. Page 108. Neto Haven t& Northampton R. R. 
Stations. — New Haven; Ives, 8 M. ; Mt. Carmel, 9; Cheshire, 15; Hitch- 
cock's, 20 ; Plantsville, 21 ; Southington, 22 ; Plainville, 27 ; Farmington, 31 ; 
Avon, 37 ; Simsbury, 42 ; Granby, 47; Southwick, 55; Westlield, 61 ; Southamp- 
ton. 68 ; East Hampton, 71 ; Noi-thampton, 76 (Florence, 79 ; Leeds, 81 ; Hayden- 
ville, 83 ; Williamsburg, 84). 



Bridgeport to Winsted. 

Route 16. Page 111. Naugatuck R. R. 

Stations. — Bridgeport ; Stratford, 3 M. ; Junction, 4 ; Derby, 13 ; Ansonia, 
15 ; Seymour, 19 ; Beacon Falls, 23 ; Naugatuck, 26 ; Union City, 27 ; Waterbury, 
32 (Oakville, 35; Watertown, 38); Waterville, 34; Plymouth, 41 ; Camp's Mills, 
46; Litchfield, 49; Wolcottville, 52; Burrville, 57; Winsted, 61. 




430 • ITINERAEY. 

Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills. 

Route 17. Page 114. Housatonic R. R. 

Stations. — Bridgepoi-t ; Stepney, 10 M. ; Botsford, 15 ; Newtown, 19 ; Haw- 
leyviUe, 23 (iSliepaug R. R. to Lichlield, 5G) ; Brooktield Junction. 27 (trains to 
Danbury) ; Brooktield, 29 ; New Milfurd, 35 ; Merwiusville, 42 ; Kent, 48 ; Corn- 
wall Bridge, 57 ; W. Cornwall, 61 ; Lime Rock, 65 ; Falls Village, 67 ; Canaan, 73 ; 
Ashley Falls, 75; Sheffield, 79; Barrington, 85; Van Deusenville, 87; Housa- 
tonic, 89 ; Glendale, 92 ; Stockbridge, 93 ; S. Lee, 95 ; Lee, 99 ; Lenox Furnace, 
101 ; Lenox, 102 ; Dewey's, 106 ; Pittsfleld, 110. 

S. Norwalk to Danbury. 

Route 18. Page 115. Danbury <h Norwalk R. R. 

Stations. — S. Norwalk ; Norwalk, 2 M. ; Winnipauk, 3 ; Wilton, 7 ; George- 
to^vn, 11; Branch ville, 13 (branch to Ridgefield); Sanford's, 15; Reading, 17; 
Bethel, 21 ; Danbury, 24. 

Boston to New London and New York. 

Route 19. Page 117. New York <fc New England R. R. <& Steamboats. 
Stations. — Boston ; Mt. Bowdoin, 4 M. ; Mattapan, 6 ; Hyde Park, 8 ; Read- 
ville, 9 ; Sprmgvale, 11 ; Ellis', 13 ; Norwood, 14 ; Winslow's, 16 ; Walpole, 19 ; 
Campbell's, 22 ; Norfolk, 23 ; Franklin, 27 ; Wadsworth's, 30 ; Blackstone, 36 ; 
Millville, 38 ; Iron Stone, 41 ; E. Douglas, 46 ; Douglas, 48 ; E. Thompson, 53 (South- 
bridge, 70) ; Thompson, 57 ; Mechanicsville, 60 ; Putnam, 61 (Willimantic, 86) ; 
Danielsonville, 69 ; Plainfield Junction, 79 ; Norwich, 95 ; New London, 108 ; New 
York (by steamer), about 220 M. 

Boston to "Woonsocket. 

Stations. — Boston ; Brookline, 4 M. ; Newton Centre, 8 ; Upper Falls, 10 ; 
Highlaudville, 11 ; Needham, 12 ; Charles River, 14 ; Dover, 16 ; Medfield, 19 ; B. 
Medway, 22 ; Medway, 25 ; W. Medway, 26; N. Bellinghani, 29 ; Bellingham, 32 ; 
Woonsocket, 37i. 

Hartford to Salisbury and Millerton, 

Route 20. Page 120. Conn. Western R. R. 
Stations. — Hartford ; Bloomfield, 6 M. ; Scotland ; Tariffville, 11 ; Simsbury. 
15 ; Strattou Brook, 17 ; Canton, 22 ; Collinsville, 25 ; Pine Meadow, 28 ; New 
Hartford, 29; Winsted, 35; W. Winsted, 37; Grant's. 41; Norfolk, 45; W.Nor- 
folk, 48 ; E. Canaan, 52 ; Canaan, 55 ; Chapinville, 60 ; Salisbury, 62 ; Lakeville, 
64 ; Ore Hill, 66 ; P. & E. and N. Y., B. &, M. R. Rs. Junction, 67 ; Millerton, 69. 

Boston to Springfield and New York. 

Route 21. Page 124. Boston d- Albany and N. Y., N. E. dh Spring- 
field R. Rs. 
Stations. — Boston ; Cottage Farm, 3 M. ; Allston, 4; Brighton, 5; Faneuil, 
6; Newton, 7; NewtonviUe, 8; W. Newton, 9 ; Auburndale, 10; Riverside, 11 ; 
Rice Crossing, 12^ ; Grautville, 13 ; Wellesley, 15 ; Lake Crossing, IG ; Natick, 17 ; 
S. Framingham, 21; Ashland, 24; Cordaville, 27 ; Southville, 28 ; Westborough, 
82; Grafton, 38; Millbury Junction, 30; Worcester, 44; Worcester Junction, 45; 
Rochdale, 53 ; Charlton, 57 ; Spencer, 62 ; E. Brookfield, 64 ; Brooktield, 67 ; W. 



ITINERARY. 431 

BrookfieM, 69; Warren, 73; W. Warren, 75; Brimfield, 79; Palmer, 83; Wilbra- 
hani,89; ludian Oivhard, 92; Springlield, 98; Longmeadow, 102; Thompsonville, 
107; Warehouse Point, 110; Windsor Locks. 112; Windsor, 118; Hartford, 124; 
Newington, 129; Berlin, 135 ; Meritlen, 142; Yalesville, 145 ; Wallingford, 148; 
N. Haven, 154 ; New Haven, 160 ; Bridgeport, 177 ; S. Norwalk, 191 ; Stamford, 
199 ; Williams' Bridge, 222 ; New York, 234. 

The Berkshire Hills. 

Route 23. Page 142. Boston & Albany and Housatonic R. Rs. 

Stations.— Bost(m; Becket, 135 M.; Washington. 138; Hinsdale, 143 ; Dalton, 
146 ; Fittslield Junction, 149 ; Pittsheld, 151 ; Shaker Village, 154 ; Richmond, 
159 ; State Line, 162. 

Housatonic R. R. — Pittsfield, 151 M. from Boston; Dewey's, 155 ; Lenox, 159; 
Lenox Furnace, 160; Lee, 162; S. Lee, 166; Stockbridge, 168; Glendale, 169; 
Housatonic, 172 ; Van DeusenviUe, 174 ; Barriugton, 176 ; Sheffield, 182 ; Ashley 
Falls 186 * Canaan 188 

Piitsfield £ N. Adams Branch. — Pittsfield, 151 ; Coltsville, 154; Berkshire, 157 ; 
Cheshire, 160; Cheshire Harbor, 163; Maple Grove, 164; S. Adams, 165; N. 
Adams, 171. 

New York to Quebec. 

Route 2L Page 157. A'. F., JV. II. & Hartford, Conn. River, Cen- 
tral Vermont, Passiwipsic, and Grand Trunk R . Rs. 

Stations. — New York ; Stamford, 34 ; Bridgeport, 56 ; New Haven, 74 ; Hart- 
ford, 110; Springfield, 136. Coim. Uiver R. R. — Chicopee Junction, 140; Willi- 
mansett, 143 ; Holyoke, 144 ; Smith's Ferry, 149 ; Mt. Tom, 151 ; Northampton, 
153 ; Hatfield. 157 ; N. Hatfield, 160 ; Whately, 162 ; S. Deerfield, 164 ; Deerfield, 
169; Greenfield, 172; Bernardston, 179; S. Vernon, 186. Central Vermont R. R. — 
Vernon, 191; Brattleboro', 196; Duminerston, 201; Putney, 205; E. Putney, 208; 
Westminster, 216 ; Bellows Falls, 222; Charlestown, 230 ; Springfield, 231 ; Clare- 
mont, 240 ; Windsor, 248 ; Hartland, 252 ; N. Hartland, 256 ; White River Junc- 
tion, 262. Passumpsic R. R. — Norwich, 267 ; Pompanoosuc, 272 ; Thetford, 277 ; 
N. Thetford, 279 ; Fairlee, 284 ; Bradford, 291 ; S. Newbury, 295 ; Newbury, 298 ; 
Wells River. 302 ; Barnet, 313 ; Passumpsic, 320 ; St. Johnsbury, 323 ; Lyndon- 
ville, 331; W. Burke, 339; Barton, 352; Coventry, 362; New]wrt, 367; N. Derby, 
372 ; Smith's Mills, 377 ; Massawippi, 388 ; N. Hatley, 395 ; Capleton, 398 ; Lea- 
noxvUle, 404 ; Sherbrooke, 407. Grand Trunk Railway. — Quebec, 426 (Montreal, 
406). 

Boston to the Hoosao Tunnel. 

Route 25. Page 175. Fitchhurg and Vt. d: Mass. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston ; Cambridge, 3; Belmont, 6; Waverly, 7; Waltham, 10; 
Stony Brook, 12; Weston, 13; Lincoln, 17; Concord, 20; S. Acton, 25; W. Acton, 
27 ; Littleton, 31 ; Ayer Junction, 35 ; Shirley, 40 ; Lunenburg, 42 ; Leominster, 
46 ; Fitchburg, 50. Vt. & Mass. R. R. — Wachusett, 53 ; Westminster, 55 ; Ash- 
burnham, 61 ; Gardner, 65 ; Baldwinville, 71 ; Royalston, 77 ; Athol, 83 ; Orange, 
87 ; Wendell, 90 ; Erving, 92 ; Grout's Corner, 98 ; Montagnie, 102 ; Greenfield, 106 ; 
Shelbume Falls, 119; Charlemont, 128; Zoar, 132; Hoosac Tunnel, 136. 

Boston to Burlington and Montreal. 

Ro7de 26. Page 179. Fitchburg, Cheshire, and Central Vt. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston ; S. Acton, 25 ; Fitchburg, 50 ; W. Fitchburg, 51 ; West- 
minster, 55 ; S. Ashbiirnliam, 60 ; N. Ashburnham, 64 ; Winchendon, 68 (branch 
to Peterboro', 85) ; State Line, 71 ; Fitzwilliam, 77 ; Troy, 82 ; Marlboro', 86 ; S. 



432 ITINERARY. 

Keene, 00; Keeno,, 02 (lirfuf'h to S. Vernon, 116); E. Westmoreland, 100; ■West- 
moreland, 104; Walpole, 110; Cold River, 113; liellows Falls, 114. Central 
Veriiiont R. R. — Rockingham, 119 ; Bartonsville, 123; Chester, 127; Gassett's, 
IS I; Cavendish, 130; Proctorsville, 138; Ludlow, 141; Healdville, 147; Summit, 
1;S; Mt. Holly, 151; E Wallingford. 153; Cnttingsville, 157; Clarendon, 160; 
RuLland, IGG; Sutherland Falls, 173; Pittsford, 17(J; Brandon, 183; Leicester 
Junction, ISS ; Salisbury, 193; Middlclrary, 100; Brooksville, 203; New Haven, 
207; Vergeunes, 213; Ferrisburgh, 215; N. Ferrisburgh, 218; Charlotte, 222; 
Slielburne, 227 ; Burlington, 234 ; Winooski, 237 ; Essex Junction, 242 ; St. Al- 
bans, 207 ; Montreal, 337. 

Rutland to Bennington. 

Route 27. Page 184. Harlem Extension R. R. 

Stations. — Rutland ; Clarendon, 6 M. ; Wallingford, ; S. Wallingford, 13 ; 
Danljy and Mt. Tabor, 18; N. Dorset, 22; E. Dorset, 25; Manchester, 30; Suu- 
dii-land, 36; Arlington, 30; Shaftesbmy, 44; S. Shaftesbui-y, 49; N.Bennington, 
51 ; Bennington, 55 (Lebanon Sprmgs, 81 ; Albany, 136). 



Rutland to Albany. . 

Route 28. Page 187. Rensselaer <& Saratoga R. R. 

Stations. — Rutland ; Centre Rutland, 2; W. Rutland, 4; Castleton, 11; 
Hydeville, IS; Fairhaven, 21; Whitehall, 20; Comstock's, 35; Fort Ann, 39; 
Smith's Basin, 43, Dunham's Basin, 48; Fort Edward, 51; Gansevoorts, 57; 
Saratoga, 68; Ballston, 74; Mechanicsville, 88; Albany .function, 04 (Troy, 100); 
Watcrt'ord, 08; Cohoes, 08; W. Troy, 101; Cemeteiy, 103; Albany, 107. 

Rtitlandd' Washington Division. — Rutland; Castleton, 11 ; Poultney, IS; Middle 
Granville, 24; Granville, 26; Pawlet, 20; Rupert, 36; Salem, 45 ; Shushau, 52; 
Cambridge, 57 ; Eagle Bridge, 63 ; Troy, 85. 

Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal. 

Roide 29. Page 188. Boston, Lowell, d- Nashua, Northern {N. IL\ 
Central Vt., and Grand Trunk R. Rs. 
Stations. — Boston ; W. Medford, 5 M.; Winchester, 8; E. Woburn, 9 (Stone- 
ham); Wilmington, 15; Billerica, 10; N. Billerica, 22 ; Lowell, 26; N.Chelms- 
ford, 20; Tvngsboro' and Dunstable, 33 ; Little's, 30 ; Nashua, 40; Thornton's, 
46; Reed's,' 40; Goff's Falls, 53; Manchester, 57; Martin's, 62; Hook.set, 66; 
Suneook, 70 ; Concord, 75. Northern (N. H.) R. R. — Fisherville, 82 ; Boscawen, 
85; N. Boscawen, SO; Franklin, 04 (branch to Bristol, 107); E. Andover, 100; 
Potter Place, 106; W. Andover, 108; Danbury. 114; Grafton, 110; Canaan, 127; 
Enlield, 134 ; E. Lebanon, 136 ; Lebanon, 140 ; White River Junction, 144. 
Central Vermont R. R. — "SVoodstock, US; W. Hart:ord, 152; Sharon, 157; S. 
Royalton, 162; Royalton, 164; Bethel, 169; Randolph, 176; Braintree, 182; 
Roxbury, 101; Northtield, 108; Montpelier Junction, 207 (Moutpelier, 208); 
Miildlesex, 212; Waterbiiry, 217; liolton, 225; Jonesville, 227; Richmond, 231; 
WiUiston, 236; Essex Junction, L'40 (Burlington, 248); Colchester, 244; Milton, 
251 ; Georgia, 255 ; St. Albans, 2G5 ; E. Swanton, 274 ; Highgate Springs, 278 : 
Province Line, 282; St. Armand, 283; Moore's. 286; Stan<lbridge, 200; Des 
Rivieres, 202 ; St. Alexandre, 209 ; St. John's, 308. Grand Trunk Railway. — La- 
cadie, 315 ; Brousseau's, 823 ; St. Lambert, 328 ; Montreal, 335. 

NasMia to Wilton. Page 192. 

Nashua ; S. Merrimack, 5 M. ; Amherst, 8 ; Milford, 11 ; Wilton, 15 ; Lj-nde- 
boro', 19 ; Greenfield, 26. 



ITINERARY. 433 

Concord to Claremont. Page 196. 
Concord 5 "W. Concord, 3^^ ; Mast Yard, 8 ; Contoocook, 12 (Henniker, 20 ; Hills- 
boro' Bridge, 27); Dimond's Comer, 14^ ; Warner, 18| ; "Waterloo, 21; Roby'a 
Corner, 2;i ; Melvin's Mills, 25; Bradford, 27i ; Newbury, 34; Chandler's, 36 1; 
Sunapee,40; Newport, 43; Northville,46 ; Kelly viUe, 48 ; Claremont, 54^ ; Clare- 
mont Junction, 663. 

St. Albans to Richford. Page 206. 
St. Albans; Sheldon, 10 ; N. Sheldon, 13 ; E. Franklin, 15; Enosburgh Falls, 
18; E. Berkshire, 24; Kichford, 28. 

Boston to the Franconia Mts. 
Route 30. Page 209. Boston, Loivell d; Nashua, and Boston, Concord d; 

Montreal R. Rs. 
Staf inns. — Boston : Lowe 
B 
U 
Asl 
W 

16S, , . , 

Wing Road, I'.'a (Bethlehem, "Ay}y)\ iwin mt. iiouse, zu4 ; raoyau niiust;, .:uj; j 
Whitefield, 200; Dalton, 203; S. Lancaster, 200; Lancaster, 210; Northumber- 
land Falls, 215; Northumberland, 220. 



Boston to the White Mountains. 

Route 31. Page 213. Eastern R. R. 

Stations. — Boston ; Salem, IG M. ; Newburypnrt, 36 ; Portsmouth, 56; Con- 
way Junction, 67 ; S. Berwick, 69; Sahnon Falls, 70 ; Great Falls, 73 ; Rochester, 
79; Hayes, 84; S. Milton, 85; Milton, 87; Unicm, 93; Wolfboro' Junction, 97 
(Wolfl)oro', 108) ; Waketield, 99 ; E. Wakefield, 103; N. Wakefield, 106 ; Ossipee 
111 ; Centre Ossipee, 115 ; W. Ossipee, 121 ; Madison, 125 ; Conway, 132 ; N. Con- 
way, 137. 

Portland to Rochester. 

Page 213. P. d- R. R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Morrill's, 2 M. ; Cumberland Mills, 5 ; Sacarappn, 6 ; 
Gorham, 10 ; Buxton Centre, 15 ; Saco River, IS ; Hollis Centre, 20 ; Centre 
Waterboro', 25 ; S. Waterboro', 28 ; Alfred, 32 ; Spuing vale, 36; E. Lebanon, 44; 
E. Rochester, 49 ; Rochester, 52. 

Boston to Cape Ann. 

Roicte 36. Page 245. Pastern R. R. 

Stations. — Boston ; Beverly, 18 M. ; Beverly Farms ; Manchester, 24 ; Glou- 
cester, 33 ; Rockport, 36. 

Boston to Portland. 

Route 37. Page 248. Eastern R. R. 

Stations. — Boston ; Somerville, 2 ; Everett ; Chelsea, 4 ; Revere, 5 ; Lynn, 
11; Swampscott, 12; Salem, 16; Beverly, 18; N. Beverly, 20; Wenham and 
Hamilton, 22; Ii)svvich, 27 ; Rowley, 31; Ncwburyport, 36-, Salisbury, 38; Sea- 



434 ITINERARY. 

brook, 42 ; Hampton, 46 ; N. Hampton, 49 ; Greenland, 51 ; Portsmouth, 56 5 Kit- 
tery, 57^ ; Elliot, 63 ; Conway Junction, 67 ; S. Berwick Junction, 70 ; N. Berwick, 
74 ; Wells, 80; Kennebunk, 85; Kennebunkport, 89; Biddeford, 93 ; Saco, 94^; 
W. Scarboro', 99 ; Scarboro', 101 ; Cape Elizabeth, 106 ; Portland, 108. 

Salem to Lowell. 

Page 255. Salem d: Lowell R. R. 

Stations. — Salem ; Carltonville, 1 M. ; Peabody, 2 ; Proctor's Comer, 4 ; W. 
Panvers, 5 ; Plielps Mills, 6 ; Paper Mills, 8 ; N. Reading, 10 ; Wilmington, 14 ; 
Wilniiugtou Junction, 15; Burtt's, 16; Tewksbury Junction, 18; Tewksbury, 19; 
Mace's, 21 ; Bleacliery, 23 ; Lowell, 24. 

Portsmouth to Concord. 

Page 267. Portsmouth R. R. 

Stations. — Portsmouth ; Greenland, 4 M. ; Stratham ; New Market Junction, 

10; Littlelield's; Ejiping, 18; W. Epping; Raymond, 23; Candia, 29; Auburn, 
33 ; Massabesic, 36 ; Manchester, 41 ; Hooksett, 51 ; Concord, 59. 

Boston to Portland. 

Rotde 38. Page 275. Boston d; Maine R. R. 

Stations. — Boston; Charlestown, 1 M. ; Somerville, 2; Medford Junction, 
4 (Medl'ord, 5); Maiden, 5; W^yoming, 6; Melrose, 7 ; ytoneham, 8; Greenwood, 
9 ; Waketield Jmiction, 10 ; Wakefield, 10^ ; Reading, 12 ; Wilmington Junction, 
18; Ballardvale, 21; Andover, 23; S. Lawrence, 26; N. Lawrence, 27; N. Ando- 
ver, 28 ; Bradford, 32 ; Haverhill, 33 ; Atkinson, 37 ; Plaistow, 38 ; Newton, 41 ; 
E. Kmgston Depot, 45 ; Exeter, 51 ; S. Newmarket, 55 ; Newmarket Jimction, 
68; Bennett Road, 60; Durham, 62; Madbury, 64; Dover, 68; Rollinsford, 71 
(Great Falls, 73); Salmon Falls, 72; S. Benvick Jimction, 74; N. Berwick, 78 ; 
Wells, 85; Kennebunk, 90 ; Biddeford, 99 ; Saco, 100; Old Orchard Beach, 104; 
Blue Point; Scarboro', 109; Lygonia ; Portland, 116. 

Lawrence to Manchester. Page 279. 
Stations. — Lawrence ; Methuen, 2 M. ; Messers, 8 ; Salem, 7 ; Windham, 12 ; 
Derry, 15 ; Wilson's, 18 ; Londonderry, 20 ; Manchester, 26. 

Lawrence to Lowell. Page 279. 
Stations. —N. Lavn-ence ; S. Lawrence, 1 M. ; Haggett's Pond, 4 ; Tewksbury 

Junction, 7 ; Tewksbury, 8 ; Mace's, 10; Bleachery, 12 ; Lowell, 13. 

Haverhill to Newhuryport. Page 280. 
Stations. — Haverhill; Bradford, i; HaverhiU Bridge, 1|; Groveland, 4^; 
Georgetown, 7i ; Bytield, 10|; Newburyport, 16^. 

Wakefield to Newhtm/port. Page 276. 
Boston ; Wakefield Junction, 10 M. ; Lynnfield Centre, 13; W. Danvers, 16; Dan- 
vers, 19 ; Topsfield, 25 ; Boxford, 28 ; Georgetown, 31 ; Bjlield, 34 ; Newburyport, 40. 

Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee. Page 282. 
Boston ; Dover, 68 M. ; Gonic, 76; Rochester, 78 ; Place's, 82; Farmington, 86; 
Davis', 90 ; New Durham, 92 ; Alton, 95 ; Alton Bay, 96. 

Portland to the White Mountains. 

Ro2ite 39. Page 284. Portland <£• Ogdenshurg R. R. 
Stations. — Portland ; Westbrook, 5 M. ; S. Windham, 11 ; White Rock, 13i ; 



ITINERAEY. 435 

Sehaffo Lake, 16|; Steep Falls, 24| ; Baldwin, 30 ; W. Baldwin, 33| ; Hiram Bridge, 
3G ; Browntield, 43 ; Fryebiirg, 49 ; Conway Centre, 55 ; N. Couway, 60 ; Glen Road, 
66 ; Upper Bartlett, 72 ; Bemis, 80. 

Portland to Quebec and Montreal. 

Route 40. Page 287. Grand Trunk Raihoay. 

Stations. — Portland; Falmouth, 5 M. ; Cumberland, 9; Yarmouth, 11; Yar- 
mouth Jiuiction, 12; Pownal, 18; New Gloucester, 22; Danville Junction, 27 ; 
Mechanic Falls, 36 ; Oxford, 41 ; S. Paris, 47 ; W. Paris, 55 ; Locke's Mills, 65 ; 
Bethel, 70 ; Gilead, 80 ; Shelburne, 86 ; Gorham, 91 ; Berlin Palls, 98 ; Milan, 103 ; 
Groveton (Northumberland), 122; N. Stratford, 134; Wenlock, 142; Island Pond, 
149; Norton Mills, 166 ; Coaticooke, 175 ; Richby, 179; Compton,183; Lennox- 
ville, 193; Shei'brooke, 196; Windsor, 211 ; Richmond, 221 (Quebec Branch); New 
Durham, 231 ; Acton, 243 ; Upton, 249 ; Britannia Mills, 255 ; St. Hyacinthe, 262; 
Soixante, 269 ; St. Hilaire, 275 ; St. Bruno, 282 ; St. Hubert, 287 ; St. Lambert, 
292 ; Montreal, 297. 

Quebec Branch. Pa.ge 290. 
Portland; Richmond, 221 M. ; Danville, 233; Warwick, 246; Arthabaska, 253; 
Stanfold, 262 ; Somerset, 268 ; Becancour, 276 ; Lyster, 280 ; Methot's Mills, 289 ; 
Black River, 297 ; Craig's Road, 302 ; Chaudiere Curve, 309 ; Hadlow, 315 ; Quebec 
(Point Levi), 317. 



Portland to Farmington. 
Route 41. Page 291. Androscoggin Division, Eastern & Maine Cen- 
tral R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Brunswick, 29 M. ; Lisbon FalJ-", 37; Lisbon, 41; 
Crowley's, 43 (Lewiston, 48) ; Sabattisville, 48 ; Leeds Junction, 55 ; Curtis Cor- 
ner, 60 ; Leeds Centre, 62; N. Leeds, 65; Strickland's Ferry, 67 ; E. Livermore, 
70 ; Livermore Falls, 75 ; Jay Bridge, 77 ; N. Jay, 81 ; Wilton, 84 ; E. Wilton, 87 ; 
Farmington, 92 (Rangely Lakes, 132 M.). 

Portland to the Upper Kennebec. 

Route 42. Page 293. E. & M. G. R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Brunswick, 29; Gardiner, 56; Waterville, 81 ; Fair- 
field, 84 ; Pishon Ferry, 92 ; Skowhegan, 100. 

Bangor to Guilford. 

Page 295. Bangor d: Piscataquis R. R. 

Stations. — Bangor ; Oldtown, 12| ; Pea Cove, 17; Bennoch Road, 19^; Al- 
ton, 21 ; Penny's, 25 ; S. Lagrange, 27 ; Lagrange, 31 ; Orney%ille, 34 ; Milo, 40; 
S. Sebec, 45| ; B. Dover, 50; Dover and Foxcroft, 52^ ; Low's Bridge, 57; Sanger- 
ville, 59^ ; Guilford, 61. 



Portland to Rockland. 

Route 44. Page 297. Maine Central and Knox & Lincoln R. Rs. 

Stations. — Portland ; Brunswick, 29 ; Bath, 42 ; Woolwich, 43. Knox & 
Lincoln R. R. — Nequasset,45 ; Montsweag, 48.V ; Wiscasset, 53 ; New Castle and 
Damariscotta, 60 ; Damariscotta Mills, 62; Nobleboro', 65; Winslow's Mills, 70; 
Waldoboro', 72; Warren, 79 ; Georges River, 84J ; Thomaston, 87 ; Rockland, 91. 



436 ITINERARY. 

Portland to Lewiston and Bangor. 

Rorde 46. Page 307. Eastern <& Maine Central R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Cumberland, 12 ; New Gloucester; Danville Jxmrtion, 
20 ; Auburn, 33 ; Lev/iston, 35 ; Greene, 43 ; Leeds, 4G ; Jlonniouth, 49 ; "Wintliroj), 
65; Keadfield, (il ; Belgrade, 69; West WatervLUe, 78; Waterville, 84 ; Bumhani, 
97 ; Newport, 111 ; Bangor, 138. 



Portland to Augusta and Bangor. 

Route 47. Page 309. Eastern <b Maine Central R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Woodford's; Westbrook, 5; Cumberland, 12; Tar- 
mouth, 17 ; Freeport, 22 ; Oak Hill; Bnmswick 20; To]isliam; Bowdoinhani ; 
Ivichmond, 40; Gardiner, 56; HaUowell, 61; Avigusta, 63 ; Iliverside, 75 ; Vas- 
salboro' ; Winslow, 81 ; Waterville, 84 ; Benton, 87; Clinton, 02; Bumhara, 97 ; 
Piltsiield, 104; Detroit; Newport, 111; E. Newport; Etna, 119; Carmel. 123; 
Hermou Pond, 128 ; Bangor, 138. 



Bangor to St. John. 

Route 49. Page 318. European d- North American R. R. 

Stations. — Bangor; Veazie, 5; Basin Mills, 7^; ; Sidney, 8; Orono, 8^ ; Web- 
ster, ;s.l ; Great Works, 11^; Oldtown, 12^-; Milford, 13; Gostigan, IS; Green- 
bush, 23; Glamon, 27; Passadurakeag, 30; Entield, o*!; Lincoln, 45; Lincoln 
Centre, 46 ; Yv'inu, 56 ; Mattawamkeag, 58; Kingman, 66; Bancroft, 70 ; Danforth 
88; Jackson Brook, 93; Eaton, 102; Wilderness, 107 ; Jjambert Lake, 109; Vance 
boro, 114; St. Croix, 115; McAdam Junction, 120 ; JIagiiadavick, 129 ; Harvey 
139; Cork, 144; Tracy, 15(5; Fredericton Junction, 160; Blissville, 164; Iloyt 
167; Enniskillen, 170 ; Gaspercaux, 173 ; Clarendon, 176 ; Welsford, 180 ; Nere]iis 
186; Westfield, 190; Grand Bay, 194; Sutton, 198; South Bay 199; Fairville 
202 ; Carleton, 205 ; St. John, 206. 



The New Brunswick Border. 

R.oute 50. Page 321. New Brunswick & Canada R. R. 

Stations. — St. Andrews ; Chamcook, 5 M. ; Bartlett's, 11 ; Waweig, 13 ; Roix 
Road, 15; Hewitt's, 19; RoUijig Dam, 20; Dumbarton, 24 ; Watt Juncti(»n, 27 
(branch to Meadows, from Watt, 4 M. ; Moore's Mills, 11; Maxwell, 14; St. Ste- 
phens and Calais, 19); Lawi-ence, 29 ; Barber Dam, 34; McAdam Junction, 43; 
Deer Lake, 59; Canterbury, 65 ; Benton, 75; Wickham, 80 ; Debec Junction, 83 
(Greenville, 87 ; Houlton, 91) ; Hodgdon, 91 ; Woodstock, 94. 

Worcester to Mount "Wachusett. 

Boston, Barre d- Gardner R. R. 

Stations. — Worcester; Lincoln Square, 1 M. ; Barbers, 3 ; N. Worcester, 41 ; 
Chaliin's, 6; Holden, 8; Jefferson's, 9J ; North Woods, 11 ; Brook, 13 ; Prince- 
ton, 10 ; Hubbardston, 20 ; Waites, 23 ; Gardner, 20 ; Winchendou, 3G. 



Montpelier to Wells River. 

Page i200. M. d W. R. R. R. 

Stations. — Montpelier ; E. Montpelier, 6 M. ; Plainfield, 10 ; Marshfield, 151 ; 
Kinney's Mills, 17^; Summit, 20; Peabody Station, 21-1; Ricker's Mills, 25; 
Groton, 28| ; S. Ryegate, 32 ; Boltonville, 34^- ; Wells River, 38. 



I 



ITINERARY. 437 

"W. Concord to Hyde Park. 

Portland and Ogdensburgh R. R. 

Stations. — W. Concord ; B. St. Jolmsbury, 4 M. ; St. Jolmsbury, 8 ; Danville, 
20; W. Danville, 2.3 ; Walileu, 28 ; Greensboro, 36; E. Hardwick, 39 ; Hardwick, 
43 ; "Wolcott, 49 ; Morrisville, 57 ; Hyde Park, 60. 

New York to Albany. 

Route 52. Page 340. The Hudson River R. R. or Steamboats. 
Stations. — Grand Central Depot; Spuyten Diiyvil, 11 M. ; Riverdale, 12; 
Mt. St. Vincent, 13 ; Yonkers, 14^7 ; Hastings, 19 ; Dobbs' Ferry, 20 ; Irviugtou, 
22; Tarrytown (and Nyack), 25 ;' Scarborough, 29; Sing Sing, 30 ; Croton, 34; 
Cniger's, 37 ; Montrose, 38 ; Feekskill, 41 ; Fort Montgomery, 45 ; Garrison's (West 
Point), 49; Cold Spring, 52 ; Cornwall Station, 54; D. & C. Junction, 57 ; Fish- 
kill (Newburgh), 58; Low Point, 62; New Hamburgh, 64; Milton Ferry, 69; 
Poughkeepsie, 73 ; Hyde Park, 78 ; Staatsburgh, 83 ; Rhinebeck, 88 ; Barrytowu, 
94; TivoIi,98; Germantown, 104 ; Livingston, 107 ; Catskill Station, 109 ; Hud- 
son, 114; Stockport, 118 ; Coxsackie, 121 ; Stuyve-sant, 123; Schodack, 129; Cas- 
tleton, 133 ; E. Albany, 141^ ; Albany 142 ; Troy, 148. 



Albany to Montreal. 
Roiite 53. Page 350. Rensselaer & Saratoga and Central Vt. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Albany ; Cemetery, 4 M. ; W. Troy, 6 ; Cohoes, 9 ; Waterford, 11 ; 
Junction 12 (here the Albany Division joins the main line, coming from Troy, 6 
M. distant); McchanicsviUe, 18; Round Lake, 24; Ballston, 32; Saratoga, 38; 
Gansevooi-t's, 49 ; Moreau, 54 ; Fort Edward, 55 (branch to Glen's Falls, in 6 M.) ; 
Dunham's Basin, 58 ; Smith's Basin, C3 ; Fort Ann, 67; Comstock's, 71 ; White- 
hall (Junction, 77 ; Lake Champlain, 79); Fairhaven, 85; Hydeville, 88; Castle- 
ton, 95 ; W. Rutland, 102 ; Centre Rutland, 104 ; Rutland, 106. Stations on the 
Central Vermont R. R. — Rutland, 106 M. from Albany ; Sutherland Falls, 113 ; 
Pittsford, 116 ; Brandon, 123; Leif-ester Junction, 128; Salisbury, 133 ; Middle- 
bur>', 139 ; Brooksville, 143 ; New Haven, 147 ; Vergennes, 153 ; Ferrisburgh, 155 ; 
N. Ferrisburgh, 158 ; Charlotte, 162 ; Shelburne, 167 ; Burlington, 174 ; Winooski, 
177; Essex Junction, 182; Colchester, 186 ; Milton, 193 ; Georgia, 197; St. Al- 
bans, 207 ; St. John's, 250 ; Montreal, 277. 




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fold-out is being digitized, and will be inserte 

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See also Suppkmetdari/ Index, on pages 448 and 449. 



INDEX. 



Abington, Mass. 51. 
Acton, Mass. 126. 
Adams, Mt. 236. 
Addison, Vt. 184. 
Adirondacks, Routes to 
the 357, 364, 365, 367. 
Agamenticus, Mt. 267. 
Albany Basins, Me. 288. 
Albany, N. Y. 348, 142. 
Alburgh Springs, Vt. 207. 
Alfred, Me. 213. 
Alton Bay, N. H. 218, 282. 
Amherst, Mass. 100, 162. 
Amherst, N. H. 192. 
Ammonoosuc Falls 233. 
Andover, Mass. 276. 
Annandale, N. Y. 347. 
Annisquam, Mass. 247. 
Anson, Me. 294. 
Ansonia, Conn. 111. 
Anthonj^'s Nose 344, 360. 
Arlington, Vt. 185. 
Arrowsic, Me. 297. 
Arthabaska, Can. 290. 
Arthur's Seat, Mass. 178. 
Artists' Falls, N. H. 225. 
Artists' Ledge, N. H. 225. 
Ascutney, Mt. 166. 
Ashbuniham, Mass. 177. 
Ashford, Conn. 118. 
Ashland, N. H. 210. 
Ashley Falls, Mass. 115. 
Assowamsett Pond 54. 
Athens, N. Y. 348. 

Auburn, Me. -^08. 

Augusta, Me. 311. 

A u' Sable Chasm 367. 

Avon, Conn. 109. 

Ayer June, Mass. 176, 105- 

Aylmer Lake, Can. 290. 

Bald Head Cliff, Me. 267. 
Bald Mt., N. H. 239. 
Baldwin, Me. 285. 
Ballardvale, Mass. 276. 
Ballston Spa, N. Y. 350. 
Bangor, Me. 315, 318. 
Bantam Lake, Conn. 112. 



Bar Harbor, Me. 303, 304, 

Baniet, Vt. 169. 

Barton, Vt. 171. 

Bash Bish Falls 122, 153. 

Basin, the 240. 

Bath, Me. 297. 

Bath, N. H. 211. 

Bay, Belfast 317. 

Boston 20. 

Burlington 365. 

Buzzard's 58, 92. 

Casco 274. 

Frenchman's 304, 

Fuudy 321. 

Ha Ha 386. 

Missisquoi 207. 

Narragansett 65. 

Narraguagus 307. 

New York 48. 329. 

Passamaquoddy 322. 

Penobscot 302, 316. 

St*. Albans 205. 
Bay View, Mass. 247. 
Bearcamp, N. H. 220. 
Becket, Mass. 143. 
Beecher's Falls, N. H. 232. 
Beech Mt., Me. 306. 
Belchertown, Mass. 100. 
Belfast, Me. 317. 

Bellows Falls, Vt. 164, 181. 
Beloeil Mt., Can. 208. 
Bennington, Vt. 186. 
Berkshire Hills 142. 
Berkshire Soda Springs, 

Mass. 152. 
Berlin, Conn. 140. 
Berlin Falls, N. H. 289. 
Bernardstim, Mass. 164. 
Berrj' Pond, Mass. 145. 
Bethel, Me. 288. 
Betiiel, Vt. 200. 
Bethlehem. N. H. 234. 
Bevei-ly, Mass. 245, 256. 
Biddeford, Me. 269, 2S3. 
Billerica, Mass. 189. 
Billington Sea 53. 
Birmingham, Conn. 111. 
Black River FaUs 165, 181, 



Black Rock, Conn. S5. 
Blackstone, Mass. 93, 117. 
Blackwell's Id., N. Y. 47. 

Blo(Kly Brook, Mass. 162. 
Blue Hill, Mass. 62. 
Blue Hill, Me. 303. 
Boar's Head, N. H. 262. 
Bolton Falls, Vt. 204. 
Bolton Notch, Conn. 94. 
Bolton, N. Y. 359. 
Boone Id., Me. 267. 
Boothbay, Me. 299. 
Boscawen, N. H. 197. 
Boston, Mass. 5. 

Athen?eum 17 

Cathedral 20. 

Christ Church 10. 

City Hall 11. 

Common 15. 

Copp's Hill 9. 

Custom House 10. 

Faneuil Hall 10. 

First Church 16. 

Horticultural Hall 13. 

Hospital 19. 

King's ChapellS. 

Museum 15. 
Music Hall 13. 
Natural Histoiy Build- 
ing 16. 
New Post-Office 12. 
Odd Fellows Hall 19. 
Old South Church 11. 
Old State House 10. 
Public Gardens 16. 

State House 17. 

U. S. Court House 13. 
Boston Light 23. 
Boterberg, N. Y. 345. 

Bowdoin College 310. 
Boxford, Mass. 276. 
Bradford, Mass. 280. 
Bradford, N. H. 19G. 
Brain tree, Mass. 38. 
Braintree, Vt. 200. 



440 



INDEX. 



Brandon. Vt. 1S2. 
Braiiford, Conn. 76. 
Brattleboro", Vt. 108. 
Breakneck Hill 345. 
Brewiter, Mass. 56. 
Bridgeport, Conn. 85, 111. 

Bridgton, Me. 285. 
Bridjiort, Vt. 184, 
Brighton, Mass. 35, 124. 
Briiiifield, Mass. 130,99,117 
Bristol, Me. 299. 
Bristol, N. H. 198. 
Bristol, R. I. 66. 
Bristol, Vt. 184. 
Brookfield, Conn. 114. 
Brookfield, Mass. 180. 
Brookline, Mass. 85. 
Brooklyn, Conn. 118. 
Brooklyn, N. Y. 48, 339. 

City Hall, 339. 

Cyi^ress Hills 340. 

Greenwood 340. 

Navy Yard 339. 

Prospect Park 339. 
Brownfield, Me. 285. 
Brown University 64. 
Brunswick, Me. 297, 309. 
Bryant's Pond, Me. 288. 
Buckland, Mass. 178a. 
Bucksport, Me. 318. 
Bunker Hill, 25. 
Burlington, Vt. 184, 365. 
Burnham, Me. 314. 
Burnside, Conn. 94. 

Buxton, Me. 213. 
Buzzards Bay 58, 92. 

Cacoima, Can. 385. 
Calais, Me. 322. 
Caldwell, N. Y. 357. 
Cambridge, Mass. 29. 
Camden, Me. 817. 
Camel's HumpMt., Vt. 203, 
Camel's Rump Mt.,Me.289. 
CampoBello Id.,N. B.322. 
Campton, N. H. 242. 
Canaan, Conn. 115. 
Canaan, N. H. 198. 

Canton. Me. 287. 
Cap Rouge, Can. 383. 
Cap Tourmcnte, Can. 385, 
Cape Ann, 245. [402. 

Cod 54. 

Elizal)eth, Me. 273. 

Eternity, Can. 386. 

Neddick, Me. 267. 

Porpoise, Me. 268. 

Rosier, Me. 303. 

Trinity, Can. 386. 
Carolina, R. I. 70. 



Casco Bay 274. 
Castine, Me. 302, 317. 
Castle Id., Mass. 22. 
Castleton, Vt. 187. 
Cathedral Ledge 224. 
Catskill Mts., N. Y. 347. 
Cave, Arlington 185. 

Clarendon 182. 

Dorset 185. 

Salisbury 123. 
Cedarmere, L. I. 340. 
Centre Harbor, N. H. 216. 
Chabonakongkoraon Lake 

104. 

Chambly, Can. 208. 
Champlain, Lake 361. 
Charlemont, Mass. 178a. 
Cliarlesbourg, Can. 384. 
Charles Id., Conn. 84. 
Charlestown, Mass. 24. 
Charlesto\vn, N. H. 165. 
Chateau Bigot, Can. 384. 
Chateau Richer, Cau. 385. 
Chatham, N. Y. 142. 
Chaudiere Falls 383. 
Chelsea, Mass. 27, 249. 
Clieshire, Conn. 109. 
Cheshire, Mass. 153. 
Chester, Vt. 181. 
Chesterfield, N. H. 103, 180. 
Chestnut Hill, Mass. 35. 
Chesuncook Lake, 296. 
Chicopee, Mass. 157. 
Chicoutimi, Can. 38G. 
China, Me. 313. 
Chocorua, Mt. 214, 215, 221. 
Clarcmont, N. H. 197. 
Clarendon Springs 182, 187. 
Clear Stream Meadows 244. 
Clermont, N. Y. 347. 
Clinton, Mass. 105, 126. 
Clinton, Mt. 235. 
Cohasset, Mass. 48. 
Cohoes, N. Y. 350. 
Colchester, Vt. 204. 
Cold Spring. N. Y. 345. 
Colebrook, N. H. 243, 289. 
Coleraine Gorge 178. 
Collinsville, Conn. 109. 
Columbia Springs 348. 
Concord, Mass. 28. 
Concord, N. H. 194. 
Coney Id., N. Y. 340. 
Connecticut Lake 245. 

Conway, N. H. 214. 
Conwaj' June. Me. 268. 
Copple Crown Mt. 218. 
Cornwall, Conn. 115. 
Cotuit Port, Mass. 55, 
Cranston, R. I. 65. 
Crawford House 230. 231. 
Crotou River, N. Y. 343. 



Crown Point, N. Y. 364, 

183. 

Croydon, N. H. 197. 
Crystal Cascade, N. H. 227. 
Crystal Lake, Vt. 171. 
Cummington, Mass. 110. 
Cushing's Id , Me. 274. 
Cuttyhunk Id., Mass. 92. 

Dalton, Mass. 144. 
Dalton, N. H. 212, 
Damariscotta, Me. 299. 
Danbury. Conn. 116. 
Danielsonville, Conn. 118. 
Danville, Can. 290. 
Danville June, Me. 287. 
Dartmouth College 166. 
Dartmouth. Mass. 92. 
Day.sville, Conn. 118, 
Debec, N. B. 323. 
Dedham, Mass. 117. 
Deerfield Gorge 178a. 
Deerfield, Mass. 163, 
Deer Id.. Mass. 20. 
Deer Isle, Me. 303. 
Denmark, Me. 285. 
Derby, Conn. 111. 
Deny, N. H. 279. 
Devil's Dance Chamber 346. 

Diamond Id., Me. 274. 
Diamond Id., N. H. 217. 
Diamond Id., N. Y. 358. 
Dighton, Mass. 39. 
Dix Id., Me. 301, 332. 
Dixville Notch, N. H. 243- 
Dobbs' Ferry, N. Y. 342, 
Dome Id., N. Y. 359. 
Dorchester, Mass. 36. 
Double Beach, Conn. 77. 
Dover, Me. 295. 
Dover, N. H. 281. 
Duck Id., N. H. 2G6. 
Dunderberg, N. Y. 343. 
Dunmore Lake, Vt. 183. 
Durham, N. H. 281. 
Diixbmy, Mass. 50. 

Eagle Cliff, N. H. 239. 
Eagle Lake, Me. 305. 
E. Audover, N. H. 198. 
E. Hartford, Conn.94,139b, 
E. Haven, Conn. 77. 
E. Rock, Conn. 83. 
Eastern Townships, Can. 

174. 
Eastham, Mass. 56. 
Easthampton, Mass. 110. 
Eastport, Me. 322. 
Echo Lakes, 225, 238. 
Edgartown, Mass. 60. 
Egremont, Mass. 153. 
Elgin Spring, Vt. 184. 



INDEX, 



441 



ETliot, Me. 268. 
Ellsworth. Me. 318. 
Enfield, Conn. 133. 
Entield, N. H. 19S. 
Englewood, N. J. 341. 
Errol, N. H. 244, 289. 
Essex June, Vt. 204. 
Essex, Mass. 257. 
Essex, N. Y. 3G5. 
Everett, Mass. 249. 
Exeter, N. H. 280. 

Fabyan House, N. H. 233 

234. 
Fairfax] Vt. 204. 
Fairfield, Conn. 86. 
Fairhaven, Coun. 83. 
Fairhaven, Mass. 91. 
Fairhaven, Vt. 188. 
Fairlee, Vt. 168. 
Fall River, Mass. 39. 
Falls, Artists' 225. 
Falls Village, Conn. 115. 
Bash Bisli 122, 153. 
Berlin 229, 

Black River 165, 181. 
Bolton 204. 
Chaudiere 3S3. 
15 Mile 169. 
Foxwell's 283. 
Georgeaana 241. 
Gibl)s's 232. 
Glen Ellis 227. 
Glens 356. 
Goodrich 225. 
Grand 323, 385. 
Grand Mer' S74. 
Housatonic 115. 
Jackson 226. 
Livermore 210. 
Lower Am nioiioosuc 233 
Montniorenci 384. 
Norton's 122. 
Rumford 288. 
Saco 269. 
Screw Auger 289. 
Shawanegau 374. 
Ste. Anne 384. 
St. Fereol 385. 
Sutherland 182. 
Thoni])son's 226. 
Turner's 178. 
Yantic 96. 
Falmouth, Mass. 53, 
Farmiiigton, Conn. 109. 
Farmington, Me. 291. 
Farmington, N. 11. 282. 
Ferrishurgh, Vt. 184. 
Fisher's Id., N. Y. 73. 
Fisherville, N. H. 197. 
Fislikill-ou-the-Iludson 345 
Fitch hurg, Mass. 176. 
Fitzwilliam, N. H. ISO. 



Florence, Mass. 110, 160. 
Flume, the, N. H. 240. 
Flume, tlie, Vt. 171. 
Flusliing, L. I. 47, 340. 
Forest Hills, 35. 
Fort Ann, N. Y. 356. 

Clinton, N. Y. 344. 

Edward, N. Y. 355. 

Fairfield, Me. 323 

Halifax, Me. 314. 

Hill, Conn. 72. 

Kent, Me. 324. 

Lee, N. Y. 341. 

Massachu.setts 156. 

Montgomery (new) 207. 

Montgomery (old) 344. 

Point, Me. 317. 

Preble, Me. 274. 

Ticonderoga 183, 362. 

Wari'en, Mas^;. 23. 

Washington, N. Y. 341. 

William Henry 356. 

Wooster, Coun. S3. 
14-Mile Id., N. Y. 359. 
Foxcroft, Me. 295. 
Framingham, Mass. 126. 
Francestown, N. H. 192. 
Franconia Mts. 238. 
Franklin, Mass. 117. 
Franklin, Mt. 236. 
Franklin, N. H. 197. 
Fredericton, N". B. 319. 
Freeport, Me. 309. 
Fresh Pond, Mass. 34. 
Fryeburg, Me. 285, 

Gag■eto^vIl,N. B. 320. 
Gardiner, Me. 311. 
Gardner, Mass. 177. 
Garnet Pools. N. H. 227. 
Gaspee Point, R. I. 65. 
Gay Head, Mass. 60. 
Georgeanna Falls, 241. 
George, Lake 357. 
Georgetown, Mass. 276. 
Georgetown, Me. 297. 
Georgeville, Can. 173. 
Georgia, Vt 204. 
Giant's Grave, N. H, 233. 
Gibbs' Falls, N. H. 232. 
Gilead, Me. 228, 289. 
Glenburn, Me. 316. 
Glen Ellis Falls, N. H. 227. 
Glen House, N. H. 226, 235, 
Glens Falls, N. Y. 3-56. 
Gloucester, Mass. 245. 
Goodrich Falls, N. H. 225, 
Gorham, Me. 213. 
Gorham, N. II. 227, 289. 
Governor's Id., Mass. 20. 
Governor's Id.,N. Y. 329, 48. 
Grafton, Mass. 126. 
Grafton, N. H. 198. 



Granbv, Conn. 109. 
Grand' Falls, N. B. 323. 385. 
Grand Menan Id. 322. 
Grand Schoodic Lake 319. 
Granville, Vt 200. 
Great Barrington 152. 
Great Falls, N. H. 213. 
Great Gidf, N. H. 235. 
Great Head, Me. 304. 
Greenfield Hill, Conn. 86. 
Greenfield, Mass. 177. 
Greenland, N. H. 263. 
Green Mt., Me. 305. 
Green Mts., Vt. 182, 199. 
Greenville, Me. 296. 
Greenwich, Conn. 89. 
Greenwich, R. I. 67. 
Gi-eylock, Mass. 153. 
Groton, Conn. 72, 73. 
Groton, Mass. 105. 
Groton, Vt. 169. 
Grout's Corner, Mass. 177. 
Grove Hall, Mass. 36. 
Guilford, Conu. 76. 

Haddam, Conn. 106. 
Hadley, Mass. 161. 
Hague, N. Y. 360. 
Ha Ha Bay, Can. 386. 
Haley's Id., Me. 266. 
Hallowell, Mo. 311. 
Hamden, Conn. 108. 
Hamilton, Mass. 257. 
Hampden, Me. 318 
Hami>ton, N. H 262. 

Beach 262. 

Falls 261. 
Hanover, N". H. 166. 
Harpswell, Me. 275. 
Harrison, Me. 285. 
Hartford, Conn. 134. 

Athemeum 137- 

Cedar Grove 139. 

Churches 135. 

Old State House 136. 

State House 135. 
Har\ard, Mass. 105. 
Harvard University 29. 
Harwich, Mass. 56. 
Hastings-on-Hudson 342. 
Hatfield, Mass. 162. 
Haverhill, Mass. 279. 
Haverhill, N. H. 211. 
Haverstraw, N. Y. 343. 
Hazard ville. Conn, 133. 
Hebron, N. H. 198. 
Hell Gate, N. Y. 47. 
Highgate Springs, Vt. 207. 
Highland Light 57. 
Highlands, the 343. 
Hillsboro Bridge 196. 
Hingham, Mass. 24. 
Hinsdale, Mass. 143. 



442 



INDEX. 



Hinsdale, N. n. 102. 
Hiram, Me 2S5. 
Hoboken. N. J. 341. 
Holl)r()oi<, Mass. 54. 
HoUlerness, N. H. 210. 
Hollis, N H. 106. 
Holmes' Hole, Mass. 59, 60. 
Holyoke, Mass. In8. 
Hodkset. N. H. 194. 
Hoosae Tunnel 154, 179. 
Hopper, the lo7. 
Hough's Neck, Mass. 37. 
Houlton, Me. 323. 
Hubbardton, Vt. 187. 
Hudson, N. Y. 348. 
Hull, Mass. 23. 
Hyannis, Mass. 56. 
Hyde Park, N. Y. 346, 

Indian Harbor. Conn. S9. 

Lorette, Can. 384. 

Neck. Conn. 77. 

Rock, Me. 292. 
Inuleside, Mass. 158. 
loiia Id., N. Y. 344. 
Ipswich, Mass. 257. 
Irasbnrtch, Vt. 171. 
Irvins^ton, N. Y. 342. 
Island I'ond, Vt. 290. 
Island, Blackwell's 47. 

Block 71. 

Boone 267. 

Brigadier 317. 

Campo Bello 322. 

Castle 22. 

Charles, Conn. 84. 

Conanicut 46. 

Cv-ney 340. 

Constitution 345. 

Continental 265. 

Ciane 3S5. 

Cruiser's 347. 

Cush)n;?'s 274. 

Cuttyhimk 92. 

Deer 20. 

Diamond, Me. 274. 

Dkmond, N. H. 217. 

Diamond, N. Y. 358. 

Dome. N. Y. 359. 

Duston's 197. 

Fisher's 73. 

Goat 46. 

Goose 3S5. 

Grand ilenan 322. 

Governor's, Mass. 20. 

Governor's, N". H. 215. 

Governor's, N. Y. 329. 

Grosse 385. 

lona 344. 

Imu'j:, Mass. 23. 

Lons,', N. H. 217. 

Long, N. Y. 339. 

Lowell 256- 



Martha's Vineyard 59. 

Monhegan 316, 

Mount Desert 30a 

Tdystic 72. 

Nantucket 60. 

Nauslion 92. 

Nenti-al 322. 

No Man's Land 59. 

Orr's 297. 

Peak's, Me. 274. 

Penequeese 92. 

Plum, Mass. 260. 

Prudence 66. 

Rainsford's 23. 

Recluse 359. 

Rhode 46. 

Richmoiid 270. 

Stage 268. 

Siaten 340. 

Thaeher's 247. 

Thompson's 22. 

Valeour, Vt. 367. 

Vinalhaven 316. 

Ward's 339. 

Wetinore 317. 

Elizabeth 92. 

St. George's 301. 

Thimble 76. 
Isle aux Coudres 385. 

Deer, Me. 303. 

Grand, Vt. 3G7. 

of Orleans 385. 

St. Helens' 370. 
Isles of Shoals 265. 
Ivy Mt.,Coun. 115 

Jackson, N. H. 225. 
Jaffrev, N. H. 179. 
JamaiVa, L. I. .340. 
Jamaica Plain, Mass. 35. 
Jav, Me. 291. 
Jefferson Hill, N. H. 229. 
Jefferson, Mt. 236. 
Jonesport, Me. 307. 
Jordan's Pond, Me. 304. 

Katahdin, Mt., Me. 297. 
Kearsan'.e. Mt. 198. 
Keene, N. H. 180. 
Kennebunk, Me. 268. 
Kennebunkport 268. 
Kent, Conn. 114. 
Kiarsarge, Mt. 224. 
Killingly, Coini. 118. 
KilHugton Peak, Vt. 182. 
Killingworth, Conn. 76. 
Kinilerliook. N. V. 348. 
Kineo Mt., Me. 206. 
Kinglield. Me. 292. 
Kingston, N. Y. 347. 
Kingston, R. I. 67. 
Kittery. Me. 265. 
Knowitou's Lauding 173. 



Lachine Rapids 372. 
Lacenia, \. H. 209. 
Lafavette, Mt. 239. 
Lake Ashley, IMass. 145. 

.'-. vlmer. Can. 290 

Beauport, Can. ?S4. 

Boma.seen, Vt. 187. 

Chabonakongkomon 104. 

Champlain 361. 

Chesuncooli, Me. 296. 

China, Me. 313. 

Contoocook, N. H. ISO. 

Crystal, Vt. 171. 

Dunmore, Vt. 18.3. 

Eclnj (Conway) 225. 

Echo (Franconia) 238. 

Enfield, N. H. 198. 

George, N. Y. 3.57. 

Grand Schoodic 319. 

Heart, N. H. 198. 

Long, Conn. 113. 

liong. Me. 285. 

Luzerne, N. Y. 355. 

Mahkeenac, Mass. 150. 

Massabesic, N. H. 193. 

Massawippi, Can. 174. 

Memphremagog 171. 

I\Ierrvnieeting 219. 

Moosehead 294, 295 

Newfound, N. H. 198. 

of Seven Isles 323. 

Onota, Mass. 145. 

Ossijiee, N. H. 220. 

Poutoosnc, Mass. 145. 

Profile, N. H. 239. 

Qninsigamond 126. 

Rockland, N. Y. 343. 

Saltonstall, Conn. 77. 

St. Catharine, Vt. 188. 

St. Chailes, Can. 384. 

St. Joaehin, Can. 385. 

St. John, Can. 386. 

St. Peter 374. 

Sebago, Me. 284. 

Sinnipink, N. Y. 344. 

Spectacle (Ponds) 114. 

Squam, N. H. 21 6, "217. 

Sunapee, N. H. 196. 

Twin, Conn. 123. 
Umbagog 244, 2S9. 

Village, N. H 209. 

Wankawan 209. 

Weidiani 256. 

Willoughby, Vt. 170. 

Winnepesaukee 215, 82 
Lakeville, Conn. 122. 
Lakeville, Mass. 54. 
Lancaster, Mass. 105. 
Lancaster. N. H. 212. 
Lanesboro, Mass. 153. 
Lanesville, Mass. 247. 
Lawrence, Mass. 278. 
Lead Mine Bridge 228. 



INDEX, 



443 



Lebanon, Conn. 98. 
LebaTion, N. H. 199. 
Led^'cs, the N. H. 224. 
Leeds, Me. 291. 
Lee, Mass. 148. 
Leeds, Mass. 110. 
Leiiiioxville, Can. 174, 290, 
Lenox, Mass. 147. 
Levcrett, Mass. 102. 
Levviston, Me. 308. 
Lexington, Mass. 28. 
Leyden Gorge 178. 
laneoln, Mass. 175. 
Lisbon Falls, Me. 291. 
Litchfield, Conn. 112. 
Littleton, N. H. 211. 
Livermore Falls, N. H. 210, 
Livennore, Me. 291. 
Londonderry, N. H. 279. 
Long Branch, N. J. 340. 
Long Id., Can. 173. 
Long Id., Mass. 23. 
Long Id., N. H. 217. 
Long Id., N. Y. 339. 
Long Lake, Conn. 113. 
Long Lake, Me. 285. 
Longmeadow, Mass. 133. 
Longueuil, Can. 373. 
Lonsdale, R. I. 93. 
Lovell, Me. 287. 
Lowell Id , Mass. 256. 
Lowell, Mass. 189. 
Ludlow, Vt. 181. 
Lunenburg, Vt. 212. 
Lyme, Conn. 75. 
Lyme, N. H. 167. 
Lyndeborough, N. H. 192. 
Lyu.lon, Vt. 170. 
Lynn, Mass. 250. 

Machias, Me. 307. 
Madawaska, Me. 324. 
Madison, Mt. 236. 
Madrid, Me. 292. 
M;igalloway River 244, 289. 
Magnolia, Mass. 247. 
Magog, Can. 173. 
Maine Forest, the 323. 
Malbaie, Can. 385. 
Mnlilen, Mass. 275. 
Mallet's Bay, Vt. 204. 
Maniaroneek, N. Y. 90. 
Manchester, Conn. 94. 
Manche.ster, Mass. 245. 
Manchester, N. H. 193. 
Manchester, Vt. 185. 
Manhnttanville, N. Y. 341. 
JIanstield, Conn. 99. 
Manstield, Mt., Vt. 203. 
MaHilohead, Mass. 255. 
Marblehead Neck, 256. 
Marion, Mass. 54. 
Marlboro, Mass. 126. 



Marshfield, Mass. 49. 
Marshpee, Mass. 56. 
Martha's Vineyard 59. 
Mashapaug Lake 118. 
Mattajioisett, Mass. 54. 
Mattawamkeag, Me. 319. 
McAdam June, N. B. 319. 
Mclndoes Falls, Vt. 169. 
Mechanic Falls, Me. 287. 
Medtield, Mass. 120. 
Medford. Mass. 275. 
Megunticook Mts. 317. 
Melrose, Mass. 275. 
Meredith, N. H. 209. 
Mcriden, Conn. 140. 
Merrymeeting Lake 219. 
Methuen, Mass, 279. 
Middleboro, Mass. 54. 
Middlebury, Vt. 183. 
Middlesex, Mass. 191. 
Middlesex, Vt. 202. 
Middletown, Conn. 106. 
Middletown Springs, Vt. 

188 
Milan, N. H. 289. 
Milford, Conn. 84. 
Milford, Me. 319. 
Milford, N. H. 192. 
Millerton, N. Y. 121. 
Milton, N. H. 213. 
Milton, Vt. 204. 
Minot's Ledge, Mass. 49. 
Missisquoi Springs 206. 
Mohegan, Conn. 98. 
Monadnock Mt., N. H. 179. 
Monadnock Mt., Vt. 243. 
Monhegau Id., Me. 316. 
Monkton, Vt. 184. 
Monroe Mt. 236. 
Monson, Me. 99. 
Monson, Mass. 295. 
Montague, Mass. 177. 
Montniorenci Falls 384. 
Montpelier, Vt. 200. 
Montreal, Can. 291, 368. 

Around the Mt. 372. 

Bonsecours Market 370. 

Champ de Mars 370. 

Christ Church Cathedral 
371. 

Gesu, Church of the 371. 

Gray Nunnery 372. 

Lachine Rapids 372. 

McGill College 371. 

Notre Dame 369. 

St. George 372. 

St. Patrick 871. 

Victoria Bridge 373. 

Victoria Square 369. 
Monument Mt., Mass. 151. 
Moose Chasm, Me. 289. 
Moosehead Lake 294, 296. 
Moosetocmaguutic 292. 



Moo.silanke Mt. N. H. 211. 
Moriah, Mt., N. H. 228. 
Morris, Conn. 113. 
Moultonlioro, N. H. 219. 
Mount Adams, N. H. 236. 

iEolus, Vt. 186. 

Agamenticus, Me. 267. 

Annanance, Vt. 170. 

Anthony, Vt. 186. 

Ascutney, Vt. 166. 

Auburn Cemetery 33. 

Bald, N. H. 2;>,9. 

Belknap, N. H. 209, 219. 

Carniel, Conn. 108. 

Chocorua, N. H. 214, 22L 

Clinton, N. H. 235. 

Cro'-Nest, N. Y. 345. 

Desert, Me. 303. 

Dunderberg, N. Y. 343. 

Elephantis, Can. 173. 

Equinox, Vt. 185. 

Everett, Mass. 152. 

Franklin, N. H. 236. 

Greylock, Mass. 153. 

Hayes, N. H 228. 

Holyoke, Mass. 160. 

Hopkins 157. 

Hope, R. I. m. 

Hor, Vt. 170. 

Independence, Vt. 363. 

Jefferson 236. 

Katahdin, Me. 297, 319. 

Kearsarge, N. H. 198. 

Kiarsarge, N. H. 224. 

Kilburn 165. 

Kineo 296. 

Lafavette, N. H. 239. 

Madison 236. 

Major, N. H. 218. 

Mansfield, Vt. 203. 

Megunticook, Me. 317. 

Monadnock, N. H. 179. 

Monadnoctk, Vt. 243. 

Monroe 236. 

Monument, Mass. 151. 

Moosilauke. N. H. 211. 

Moriah, N. H. 228. 

Nonotuck, Mass. 160. 

Ossipee, N. H. 219, 220. 

Owl's Head, Can. 172. 

Owl's Head, N. H. 211. 

Passaconaway 220. 

Pinnacle, Can. 174. 

Pinnacle, N. H. 194. 

Pleasant, Me. 285. 

Pleasant. N. H. 236. 

Profile, N. H. 239. 

Prospect, Conn. 115. 

Prospect, N. H. 210. 

Pulaski, Vt. 108. 

Ragged, N. H. 198. 

Riga, Conn. 121. 

RouLUard, Can. 290. 



4i4 



INDEX. 



Ste. Anne, Can. 3S5. 

St. Vinf»ent, N. Y. 341. 

Sugar Loai, Mass. 162. 

Sni'i.rise, N. H. 22S. 

Talxjr, Vt. 185. 

Toby, Mass. 102. 

Tom, Conn. 113. 

Tom, Mass. 160. 

Tom, Vt. 199. 

Vernon, N. H. 192, 

Waiitastiquet 103. 

Washington, Mass. 152. 

"Washington, N. H. 234. 
Ascent from Craw- 
ford's 235. 
Ascent from Gorhaui 

236. 
Carriage-road 235. 
Railway 234. 
View 237. 

Wliitcface, N. H. 220. 

Wilhird, N. H. 231. 
Mountains, Adirondack 3G5 

Allagash 323. 

Berkshire 142. 

Catskill 347. 

Dixville 243. 

Franconia 238. 

Green 182-186,199-204, 

Hi'lderborg 348. 

Highlands 343, 344. 

Laurcntian 378, 385. 

Lunenburg 212. 

Magalloway 245. 

Megunticook 317. 

Pilot 212. 

Sandwich 220. 

Shawangunk 846. 

White 221. 
Murray Bay, Can. 385. 
Myricks, Mass. 54. 
Mystic, Conn . 72. 
Mystic Pond 189. 

Valiant, Mass. 21. 
>Jantasket Beach 23. 
Nantucket 60. 
Naples, Me. 284. 
Narragansett Bay 65. 
Narragansett Fort 69. 
Narragansett Pier 68. 
Nashua, N. H. 191. 
Natick, Mass. 124. 
Natural Bridge 154. 
Naugatuck, Conn. 111. 
Nau'shon Id. 92. 
Newark, Vt. 171. 
NeAV Bedford, Mass. 90. 
New Britain, Conn. 95. 
Newburg, N. Y. 345. 
Newbury, Vt. 168. 
NewV)uryiiort, Mass. 258. 
Newcastle, Me. 2'Jd. 



Newfound Lake 198. 
New Gloucester, Me. 287. 
New Hartford. Conn. 120. 
New Haven. Conu. 77, 141. 

Art Gallery 81. 

Cemetery 78. 

East Rock 83. 

Public Green 79. 

Savin Rock 83. 

State House 80. 

West Rock 83. 

Yale College 80. 
New Haven, Vt. 184. 
New Lebanon Springs 146. 
New London, Conn. 72. 
Newmarket, N. H.267, 281. 
New Marlboro, Mass. 252. 
New Milford, Conn. 114. 
Newport, Me. 314. 
New]i(nt, R. I. 40, 66. 

Bellevue Ave. 44. 

J'irst Beaek 45. 

Fort Adams 46. 

Islands, the 46. 

Lawton's Valley 44. 

Purgatory 45. 

Redwood Library 43. 

Round Tower 43. 

State House 42. 
Newport, Vt. 171. 
New Rochelle, N. Y. 90. 
Newton, Mass. 35, 120, 124. 
Newtown, Conn. 114. 
New York City 325. 

Astor Library 333. 

Battery 329. 

Bay, the 329. 

Bible House 333. 

Boulevard 338. 

Bowling Green 329. 

Broadway 330, 335. 

Cathedral 336. 

Central Park 336. 

Christ Church 335. 

City Hall 332. 

Cooper Institute 333. 

Court House 332. 

Custom House 331. 

Fifth Avenue 335. 

Five Points 332. 

Grace Church 333. 

Grand Central Depot 336. 

High Bridge 338. 

Lenox Library 338. 

Madison Square 334. 

National Academy of 
Design 334. 

New Post-Offlce 332. 

New York University 333 

Park Row 331. 

Reservoir 335. 

St. George 334, 

St. Paul 331. 



Puh-TreasTiry 330. 

Teui].le Emanuel 336. 

Tombs, the 332. 

Trinity Church 330. 

Union Square 333, 

Wall Street 330. 

Ward's Island 339. 

Y. M. C. Association 33'J 
Niantic, Conn. 74. 
Nix's Mate, Mass. 23. 
Norfolk, Conn. 120. 
Norman's Woe 246. 
Noroton, Conn. 87. 
Norridgewock, Me. 293. 
N. Adams, Mass. 154, 
Northampton, Mass. 159. 
NorUiboro, Mass. 126. 
N. Conway, N. H, 223, 287- 
Northfleld, Mass. 102. 
Northtield, Vt. 200. 
N. Haven, Conn. 141, 
N. Stratr.u-d, N. H. 243, 
Northumberland, N. H. 

212, 243, 290. 
N. Yarmouth, Me. 287. 
Norton's Falls, Conn. 122. 
Norwalk, Conn. 87. 
Norwich, Conn. 96, 119. 
Norwich, Vt. 166. 
Notch, Bolton, Coun. 94. 

Dixville, N. H. 243. 

Franconia, N . H. 238. 

Grafton, Me. 289. 

Pinkham, N. H. 226. 

Sandgate, Vt. 186. 

Snmtigler's, Vt. 202. 

White Mt. 231. 

WUmington, N. Y. 367. 

Oak Bluffs, Mass. 60. 
Old Deerfield. Mass. 163. 
Old Hadley, Mass. 161. 
Old Orchaid Beach 283. 
Oldtown, Me. 318. 
Ore Hill, Conn. 121. 
Orford Mt., Can. 173. 
Orford, N. H. 16S. 
Orient S])rings, Mass. 102. 
Orono. Me. 318. 
Osceola, Mt. 242. 
Ossipee Mt., N.H.219, 220. 
Ossipee, N. H. 214. 
Otta Quechee Valley, Vt 

199. 
Owl's Head Mt, Can. 172. 
Oxford, Me. 288. 
Oxford, Mass. 104. 

Palcnvllle, N. Y. 348. 
ralisa<les, the 341. 
Palmei-, Mass. 180. 
Paris Hill, Me. 288. 
Paiinacheue Lake 289. 



INDEX. 



415 



Pnsrpie Id., Mass. 92. 
rassuct.iuiway Mt. 220. 
rassiuiipsic, Vt. 109. 
Patieii, Me. 319. 
PauMing Manor, N. Y. 342. 
Pawtiicket, R. I. 02. 
PawtuxL't, R. I. 65, 
PeaboUv, Ma.ss. 253. 
Peaccdale, R. I. 68. 
Peak's Id., Me. 274. 
Peekskiil, N. Y.343. 
Pelliain Fort, Mass. 179. 
Peniaquid, Me. 299. 
Peiiiigewassct Valley 210. 
Peuequeese Id. 92. 
Pepperell, Mass. 105. 
Pe(iuot House, Conn. 74. 
Perry's Peak, Mass. 148. 
Peterboro, N. H. 180. 
Phillips, Me. 292. 
Phipsburg, Me, 297. 
Piennont'; N. J. 342. 
Pigeon Cove, Mass. 247. 
Pittsburg, N. H. 245. 
Pittsfield, Mass. 144. 
Pittsford, N. H. 182. 
Plaeentia, N. Y. 34G. 
Plaiufield, Conn. 94. 
Plainville, Conn. 109. 
Plattsburt;, N. Y. 367. 
Pleasant, Mt 236 
Plymouth, Conn. 112. 
Plymouth, Mass. 51. 

Burying Hill 53. 

Forefather's Rock 52. 

Pilgrim Hall 52. 

Plymouth Forest 53. 
Plymouth, N. H. 210, 217, 

242. 
Pocassftt, Mass. 58. 
Point Judith, R. I. 69. 
Point Levi, Can. 290, 383. 
Point Shirley, Mass. 20. 
Pomfret, Conn. 118. 
Pnmpanoosuc, Vt. 167. 
Pool, the N. H. 240. 
Port Chester, N. Y. 90. 
Port Henry, N. Y. 365. 
Port Kent, N. Y. 367. 
Portland, Me. 270, 283. 

City Hall 272. 

Custom House 272. 

Evergreen Cem. 273. 

Observatory 272. 

Post-Office 273. 

"W. Promenade 271. 
Portsmouth, N. H. 263. 
Poughkeei)sie, N. Y. 346. 
Ponltney, Vt. 187. 
Presque Isle, Me. 323. 
Princeton, Mass. 177. 
Proctorsville, Vt. 181. 
Profile House 238. 



Profile, the 239. 
Prosj)ect Mt., Conn. 115. 
Prospeft Mt., N. H. 210. 
Prout's Neck, Me. 270. 
Providence, R. I. 63. 

Arcade 63. 

Athemeuni 64. 

Brown University 64. 

Monument 63. 

R. . Hospital 64. 
Provincetown, Mass. 57. 
Prudence Id., R. I. 66. 
Pulaski Mt., Vt. 108. 
Putnam, Conn. 117. 
Putney, Vt. 164. 

Quebec, Can. 290, 375. 

Cathedral 3S0. 

Citadel 379. 

Durham Terrace 378. 

English Cathedral 378. 

Goklen Dog 382. 

Hotel Dieu 380. 

Jesuit Buildings 381. 

Laval University 381. 

Marine IIosi>ital 382. 

Market Square 380. 

Mt. Hermou Cem. 3S3. 

Notre Dame des Victoires 
383. 

Parliament House 380. 

Place d'Armes 378. 

Plains of Abraham 383. 

Prescott Gate 380. 

Seminary 381. 

St. John's Gate 379. 

St. Louis Gate 379. 

Ursuline Convent 381. 

Wolfe and Montcalm 
Monument 379. 
Queen's Fort, R. I. 69. 
Quincy, Mass. 37. 
Quinsigamond Lake 126. 
Quoddy Head, Me. 322. 

Rafe's Chasm, Mass. 247. 
Ragge.l Mt., N. H. 198. 
Randolph Hill 228, 236. 
Randolph, Vt. 200. 
Rangeley Lakes 245, 292. 
Raynhain, Mass. 38. 
Readfield, Me. 309. 
Reading, Conn. 116. 
Reading, Mass. 276. 
Readville, Mass. 62. 
Recluse Id.. N. Y. 359. 
Red Hill, N. H. 216. 
Revere Beach, 27. 
Rhinebeck-on-Hudson 347. 
Rhode Island 40, 46. 
Richford, Vt. 207. 
Richmond, Can. 290. 
Richmond Id. 270. 



Richmond, Me. 311. 
Ridgefield, Conn. 116. 
Ridley's Station, Vt. 203. 
Rindge, N. H. 179. 
Ripton, Vt. 184. 
River, Ammonoosuc 233, 
290. 

Androscoggin 289, 291, 
308, 310. 

Aroostook 323, 324. 

Chaudiere 313, 3S3. 

Connecticut 75, 106, 134, 
157, 169, 211, 243, 245. 

East 47, 339. 

Farraington 109, 143. 

Housatonic 115, 148, 153. 

Hudson 340, 356. 

Kennebec 293, 311. 

Lamoille 203, 204. 

Merrimac 189, 193, 197, 
258, 278, 279. 

Missisquoi 206. 

Naugatuck 111. 

Passumpsic 169. 

Pemigewasset 210, 241. 

Penobscot 296, 316. 

Richelieu 207, 368, 373. 

Saco 223, 231, 269, 285. 

Saguenay 385. 

St. Croix 322. 

St. John 320, 323. 

St. Lawrence 369, 372, 
373, 384. 

St. Maurice 374, 

Thames 96. 

Winooski 203, 204. 
Riverdale, Mass. 246. 
Rivermouth Rocks, 262. 
Riviere du Loup 323, 385. 
Rochester, N. H. 213, 282. 
Rockland Lake, N. Y. 343. 
Rockland, Me. 301, 316. 
Rockport, Mass. 247. 
Rockville, Conn. 94. 
Rocky Hill, Conn. 140. 
Rocky Point, R. I. 65. 
Rogers' Slide, N. Y. 360. 
Rondout, N. Y. 346. 
Roslyn, L. I. 340. 
Rou.gemont Mt. 208. 
Rouillard Mt. 290. 
Round Id., Can. 172. 
Rouse's Point, N. Y. 207. 
Rowley, Mass. 258. 
Roxburv, Mass. 36. 
Roxbury, Vt. 200. 
Royalton, Vt. 200. 
Rumford Falls, Me. 288. 
Runinev, N. H. 211. 
Rutland, Vt. 181. 
Rye Beach, N. H. 263. 
Rvegate, Vt. 168. 
Rye, N. Y. 90. 



446 



INDEX. 



Sabbath Day Point 359. 
Haecarappa, Me. 213. 
feacheiii's Head, Conn. 76. 
Sachem's Phiin, Conn. 97. 
Sa(!0, Me. 269. 
Saco Pool 269. 
Sage's Ravine, Conn. 122. 
Sayuenay River 385. 
St. Albans, Vt. 204. 
St. Andrew, N. B. 322. 
Ste. Anne, Can. 384. 
St. Charles, Lake 384. 
St. Fereol Falls 385. 
St. Fi-ancis, Me. 324. 
St. George, Me. 301. 
St. Hvacinthe, Can. 290. 
St. John River 320. 
St. Johnsbury, Vt. 169. 
St. John's, Can. 208. 
St. Johns, N. B. 320. 
St. Maurice River 374. 
St. Stephen, N. B. 323. 
Salem, Mass. 251. 
Court House 253. 
Custom House 253. 
East India Museum 252. 
Plummer Hall 252. 
Salem Neck 253. 
Salisburv Beach 200. 
Salisbury, Coun. 115, 121. 
Salisbury, Mass. 260. 
Salmon Falls, N. H. 283. 
Sandgate Notch, Vt. 186. 
Sandisfield, Mass. 152. 
Sand Spring, Mass. 156. 
Sandwich, Mass. 55. 
Sandwich, N. H. 219. 
Sankoty Head, 62. 
Saratoga Springs 350. 
Battle-field 355. 
Columbian Spring 352. 
Congress S])ring 352. 
Crystal Spring 353. 
Excelsior Spring 354. 
Geyser Spring 354. 
Lake, the 354. 
Park, Congress 352. 
Pavilion Spring 353. 
Seltzer Spring 353. 
Star Spring 354. 
Saugerties, N. Y. 347. 
Savin Rock, Conn. 83. 
Savov, Mass. 153. 
Sawyer's Rock, N. H. 230. 
Saybrook, Conn. 75. 
Scarb(;ro Beach 270, 283. 
Schoodic Lakes, Me. 322. 
Schooner Head, Me. 304. 
Scituate, Mass. 49. 
Screw Anger Falls 289. 
Seabrook,' N. H. 261. 
Searsport, Me. 317. 
Sebago Lake, Me. 284. 



Sebec Lake, Me. 295. 
Sesacacha Pond 62. 
Seymour, Conn. 111. 
Sharon, Mass. 62. 
Sharon, Vt. 199. 
Shawanegan Falls 374. 
Sheffield, Mass. 153. 
Sheffield, N. B. 320. 
Shelburne Falls, Mass. 179. 
Shelburne, N. H. 289. 
Sheldon Springs, Vt. 206, 
Sherbrooke, Can. 174. 
Shippan Point, Conu. 89. 
Shoals, Isles of 265. 
Shrewsbury, Mass. 126. 
Siasconset, Mass. 61. 
Silver Cascade, 232. 
Simsbury, Conn. 109. 
Sing Sing, N. Y. 343. 
Skinner Hollow, Vt. 185. 
Skinner's Id., Can. 172. 
Skowhegan, Me. 293. 
Sleepy Hollow, N. Y. 342. 
Smugglers' Notch, Vt. 202 
Solon, Me. 294. 
Somerville, Mass. 249, 275 
Somes' Sound, Me. 306. 
Sorel, Can. 373. 
S. Adams, Mass. 153. 
S. Braintree, Mass. 38, 51. 
S. Cornwall, Conn. 115. 
S. Deerfield, Mass. 162. 
S. Egremont, Mass. 152. 
S. Framinghara 125. 
S. Hadley, Mass. 158. 
Southington, Conn. 109. 
S. Kingstown, R. I. 69. 
8. Mountain, Mass. 145. 
S. Norwalk, Conn. 87. 
S. Paris, Me. 288. 
Southport, Conn. 86. 
Southport, Me. 299. 
S. Royalton, Vt. 200. 
S. Vernon, Vt. 102. 
Southwest Harbor.Me. 306. 
S. Windham, Me. 284. 
S. Windsor, Conn. 140. 
Sparkling Cascade 232. 
Spectacle Ponds 114. 
Spencer, Mass. 130. 
Spot Pond 189, 275. 
Springfield, Mass. 131, 157. 

City Library 132. 

Court House 132. 

U. S. Armory 131. 
Springfield, Vt. 165, 181. 
Springvale, Me. 213. 
Spuyten Duyvil Creek, N. 

Y. 341. 
Spy Pond, Mass. 34. 
Squam Lake 217, 220. 
Squantum Point 37. 
Stafford Springs 99. 



Stage Id., Me. 269. 
Stamford, Coini. 88. 
Standish, Me. 285. 
Stanstead, Can. 174. 
Star Id., N. H. 265. 
Starks, Me. 294. 
Stockbridge, Mass. 149. 
Stoneham, Mass. 275. 
Stonington, Conn. 71. 
Stony Creek, Conn. 76- 
Stony Point, N. Y. 343, 
Stow, Vt. 202. 
Straflord, N. H. 282. 
Stratford, Conn. 84. 
Stratford, N. H. 290. 
Stratham, N. H. 267. 
Stratton Gap, Vt. 185. 
Strong, Me. 292. 
Sudbury, Mass. 125. 
Sugar Loaf Mt. 162. 
Summit, Vt. 181. 
Sunapee Lake, N. H. 196. 
Suncook, N. H. 194. 
Sunderland, Mass. 162. 
Surprise, Mt. 228. 
Sutherland Falls, Vt. 182. 
Swamp cott, Mass. 251. 
Swanton, Vt. 207. 
Swanzey. N. H. 102. 
Sylvan Glade Cataract 232 

Tadousac, Can. 385. 
Talcott ]\It., Conn. 139. 
Tappan, N. J. 342. 
Tai>pan Zee 342. 
Tarrytown. N. Y. 342. 
Taunton, Mass. 38. 
Temideton, Mass. 177. 
Tewksbury, Mass. 189. 
Thacher's Id., Mass. 247. 
The Forks, Me. 294. 
Thetford, Vt. 167. 
Thimble Is., Co)in. 76. 
Thomaston, Me. 301. 
Thompson, Conn. 104, 117. 
Thompson's Falls, N. H. 

226. 
Thomiison's Id. 22. 
Thompsonville 133. 
Three Rivers, Can. 290, 374. 
Throgg's Point, N. Y. 47. 
Ticonderoga, Fort 183, 362. 
Tilton, N. H. 209. 
Tivoli, N. Y. 347. 
Toby Mt. 102. 
Tolland, Conn. 99. 
Topsfield, Mass. 276. 
Troy, N. H. 180. 
Troy, N. Y. 350. 
Truro, Mass. 56. 
Tuckermau's Ravine, N. 

H. 227, 237. 
Tufts CoUege, Mass. 189. 



INDEX. 



447 



Turner's Falls, Mass. 17S. 
Twill Lakes, Conn. 12;j. 
Twin Mt. House 233. 

Unibagog Lake 244, 2S9. 
Uiidercliff, N. Y. 345. 
Upper Bartlett 230, 287. 
Upton, Me. 244, 289. 
Uxbridge, Mass. 93. 

Van Buren, Me. 324. 
Vanceboro, Me. 319. 
Varennes, Can. 373. 
Vassalboro, Me. 313. 
Vassar College 34U. 
Vcrgennes, Vt. 184, 365. 
Vernon, Conn. 94. 
Vernon, Vt. 102. 
Verplanek's Point 343. 
Versliire, Vt. 107. 
Vineyard Haven GO. 
Vineyard iSound 92. 
Vue de I'Eau, R. L 65. 

Waehusett, Mt. 177. 
Wakefield, Mass. 276. 
Waldoboro, Me. 300. 
Wallingford, Conn. 140. 
\Yallingtord, Vt. 184. 
■\Valy)ole, N. H. 180. 
Waltliani, Mass. 175. 
■Ward's Id., N. Y. 47, 339. 
Waiv, Mass. 99. 
"Warehani, Mass. 54. 
"Warehouse Point 133. 
Warren, Me. 300. 
Warren, Mass. 130. 
Warren, N. H. 211. 
Warren, R. I. (36. 
Warwick, R. I. 67. 
Wasliington, Mass. 143. 
Washin^tiin, Mt. 234. 
Watch Hill Point 70. 
Waterburv, Conn 95. 
Waterbury, Vt. 202. 
Waterlbnl, Me. 285. 
Watertown, Conn. 112. 



Watertown, Mass. 34. 
Waterville, Conn. 112. 
Waterville, Me. 309, 314. 
Waterville, N. H. 242. 
Waukavvan Lake 209. 
Waumbek House 212, 229, 
Wauregan, Conn. 119. 
Webster, Mass. 104. 
Wechawken, N. J. 341. 
Weir June, Mass. 90. 
Weirs, N. H. 209, 215. 
Weld, Me. 291. 
Wellesley, Mass. 124. 
Wellfleet, Mass. 56. 
Wells Beach 268, 283. 
Wells River, Vt. 168, 211. 
AVenliam, Mass. 256. 
Wentworth, N. H. 211. 
Westboro, Mass. 126. 
W. Brookheld, Mass. 130. 
Westbrook, Me. 284, 309. 
Westerly, R. I. 70. 
Westtield, Mas.s. 110, 142. 
Westford, Mass. 176. 
W. Lebanon, N. H. 199. 
W. Medford, Mass. 188. 
Westminster, Mass. 177. 
Westminster, Vt. 164. 
Weston, Me. 319. 
W. Ossipee, N. H. 214, 220. 
West P(nnt, N. Y. 344. 
Westport, Conn. 87. 
Westport, Me. 299. 
Westport, Mass. 92. 
Westport, N. Y. 365. 
West Rock, Conn. 83. 
W. Rutland, Vt. 182, 187. 
W. Troy, N. Y. 350. 
Wetherstield, Conn. 139. 
Weymouth, Mass. 48. 
Whatelv, Mass. 162. 
Whiteface Mt. 220. 
Whitehall, N. Y. 188, 356. 
White Id., N. H. 266. 
White River June, Vt. 166, 

199. 
White Mt. Notch 231. 



White Mts. 213, 222. 
Wiekford, R. I. 67. 
Wilhrahani, Mass. 130. 
Willard, Mt. 231, 
Willey House 231. 
Williamsburg, Mass. 110. 
Williams College 156. 
Williamstown, Mass. 156. 
Willimantie, (."onn. 94. 
Willoughbv Lake 170. 
Wilton, N.'H. 192. 
Winchendon, Mass. 179. 
Winchester, Mass. 189. 
Winchester, N. H. 102. 
Windham, N. H. 279. 
Windsor, Conn. 133. 
Windsor, Mass. 144. 
Windsor, Vt. 165. 
Wing Road, N. H. 212. 
W^innepesaukee Lake, N 

H. 215, 282. 
Winooski, Vt. 204, 366. 
Winsted, Conn. 113. 
Winterport, Me. 318. 
Winthrop, Me. 308. 
Wiscasset, Me. 298. 
Wobum, Mass. 189. 
Wolcottville, Conn. 113. 
Wolfboro, N. H. 214, 218. 
Wood's Hole, 59, 92. 
Woodstock, Conn. 117. 
W^jodstock, N. B. 323. 
Woodstock, N. H. 241. 
Woodstock, Vt. 199. 
Woolwich, Me. 298. 
Woonsocket, R. I. 93, 120, 
Worcester, Mass. 127. 

Antiquarian Soc. 128. 

Industrial School 127. 

Monuments 129. 

Yale College, Conn. 75, 8a 
Yantic Falls, Conn. 96. 
Yarmouth, Me. 309. 
Yarmouth, JIass 56. 
Yonkcrs, N. Y. 341. 
York, Me. 266. 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 



Acton, Mass. 410, 126. 
Adams, Mass. 153. 
Alexandria Bay, 400. 
Allenstowu, N. II. 417. 
Amef^bui'y, Mass. 420. 
Andover, Me. '292. 
Aiiticosti, P. Q 403. 
Antrim, N. H. l'.)6. 
Arethusa Falls, N. [I. 233. 
Arlington, Mass. 405. 
Ashfleld, Mass. 163, 178 a. 
Athol, Mass. 177, 4-22. 
Attleboro, Mass. 62 6. 

Baddeck, C. B. 404. 
Barnstable, Mass. 56. 
Barre, Mass 411, 421. 
Bartlett, N. H. 230. 
Bay of Ohaleur, 403. 
Beach Bluff, Mass. 408. 
Bedford, Mass. 406. 
Belgrade, Me. 308. 
Beunin'^ton, N. II. 106. 
Berlin Kails, N. H. 289. 
Blc, P Q. 402. 
Birchdale Springs 105. 
-Blaudford, Mass. 143. 
Block Island, R. I 65 &., 71 
Blue Hills, Mass. 37, 62. 
Bonaventure Island, 403. 
Boston, Mass. 5. 

Beacon Uill 16 d. 

First Bapt. Ch 10 C 

Life Ins. Cos., 12 

Masonic Temple 12 b. 

Museum, bine Arts 16 b. 

New Old South 16 a. 

Public Library 12 b. 

St. James's 12 b. 

Technology 16 a. 

Trinity Church 16 a. 

University 18. 

Y. M. C. A. 16 c. 
Boylston, Mass. 104. 
Bradford, Vt. 168. 
Brant Rock, Mass. 49. 
Bras d'Or, C. B. 404. 
Bread-Loaf Inn, Vt. 184. 
Bridgpwater, Mass. 53 b. 
lirocktuu, Mass. 53 b. 
Auckland, Mass. 178 a. 



Buttonwoods, R. I. 67. 

Camden, Me. 425, 317. 
Campbellton, N. B. 403. 
Campello, Mass. 53 b. 
Campobello, N. B. 322, 426, 
Caudia, N H. 419. 
Canton, Mass. 62 a. 
Cape Arundel, Me. 283. 
Cape Breton, N. S. 404. 
Charlemont, Mass. 178 a. 
Charlottetown, P. E. I. 404, 
Charlton, Mass. 130. 
Chatham, N. B. 404. 
Cheese Rock, Mass. 189. 
Chelsea, Vt. 200. 
Chester, Mass. 143. 
Chester, N. H. 419. 
Chesterfield, Mass. 110. 
Chesterfield, N. H. 180. 
Chiron Springs, N. H. 198. 
Clifford (The), Mass. 53 a. 
Cochituate Lake, Mass. 125. 
Coldbrook Springs, Mass. 

411, 422. 
Conanicut, R. I. 46, 65 b. 
Concord, Mass. 406, 28. 
Concord Junction 410 
(^Jontoocook, N. H 417. 
Conway, Mass. 163. 
Cottage Citv, Mass. 59. 
Orawtbrd House 231, 230. 

Dalhousie, N. B. 403. 
Dana, Mass. 422. 
Dauvers, Mass. 276, 420. 
Darien, Conn. 87. 
Dedham, Mass. 02 a, 117 
Deerfield, N. II, 419. 
Deer Isle, Me. 307 a. ; 303. 
Devereux, Mass. 408. 
Dorset, Vt 185. 
Douglas, Mass. 117. 
Dover, N. H. 418, 281. 
Downer Landing, 24. 
Dublin, N. H. 414. 
Dudley, Mass. 117. 
Dunbarton, N. II 194. 
Dunstable, Mass. 411. 

East Jaffrey, N. II. 413. 



Edmundston, N. B. 323. 
Ellsworth, Me. 318, 322. 
Enfield, Mass. 422. 
Eppiug, N. H. 419. 
Epsom, N. U. 417. 
Eustis, Me. 294. 

Father Point, P. Q. 402. 
Fernside, Mass. 148. 
Fisher's Island, N.Y. 71, 73. 
Fitz William, N. H. 179. 
Flagstaff, 3Ie. 205. 
Forks (The), Me. 293. 
Fort Popham, Me. 426. 
Foxboro, Mass. 62 b. 
Franconia, N. H. 234 a, 238. 

Gardner, Mass. 413, 177. 
Gasp(5, P. Q. 403. 
Gill, Mass. 102, 178. 
Gilmanton, N. II. 209.' 
Goat Island, R. I. 46. 
Goshen, Conn. 71. 115. 
Goshen, Mass. 110, 100. 
Grand Manan, 426, 322. 
Granville, Mass. 110. 
Green's Landing, Mo. 307 a. 
Greenville, N. II. 176. 
Groveton, N. H. 243. 

Halifax, Mass. 51. 
Ilampstead, N. II. 414. 
Ilardwick, Mass 421. 
Harrisville, N. H. 414. 
Hawley, Mass. 178 a. 
Heath, Mass. 178 a. 
Ilenniker, N. II. 418. 
Ilillsboro, N. H. 418, 196. 
Holbrook, Mass. 53 b. 
Ilolden, Mass. 411. 
Holliston, Mass. 125. 
Hopedale, Mass. 125. 
Hopkinton, N. II. 417. 
Ilopkinton Springs, 126. 
Hough's Neck, Mass. 53 b. 
Ilubbardston, Mass 413. 
Humarocks (The), Mass. 49. 
Hyde Park, Mass. 62. 

Isle an Haut, Me. 307 a. 
Islesbtiro, Me. 307 a. 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 



U9 



Katahdin Iron Works, 295. 
Katama, Mass. 60. 
K.-ene, N. II. 179, 102. 
Keimebunkport, 283, 268. 
Kiarsarge Village, 224. 

Lake-Auburn Spring, 308. 
Lake Buel, 152. 
Liike iNlaranacook, 308. 
Lake Plefisant, 177. 
Leicester, Mass. 130. 
Lewiston, Me. 307 b. 
Lexington, Mass. 406, 28. 
Lisbon, N II. 211. 
Littletun, Mass. 410. 
Littleton, N. II. 212. 
Livermure, N. 11. 2-31,242. 
Louisbourg, C B. 405. 
Ludlow, Mass, 422. 
Luudy's Lane, Ont. 396, 395. 

Magnolia, Mass. 245, 247. 
Blanoinet, Mass. 53 a. 
Mansfield, Mass. 62 b. 
-M:iplewood. N. II. 231 a. 
Maquaui Bay, Yt. 204. 
Marblehead, Mass. 408, 255. 
Mark Rock, R. I. 65 a. 
Mass. Soldiers' Home, 27. 
Mendon, Mass. 125. 
Middlesex Fells, 189. 
Middleton, Mass. 420. 
Milford, Mass. 125. 
Miliburv, Mass. 93. 
Miller's' Falls, Mass. 102. 
Monadnock, 413. 
Mouhcgan, 425, 316. 
Mi.nson, Me. 295. 
Montgomery, Mass. 143. 
Mont ^'e^non, 423, 192. 
Moose River, 294. 
Mount Bowdoin, Ma.ss. 36. 

Cardigan, N. H. 198. 

Toby, Mass. 163. 
Mystic Island, Conn. 71. 

Narragansett Bay, 65 a. 
Nashua. N. H. 191, 411. 
N;iyatt Point, R. I. 65 a. 
New Castle, N. H. 267. 
New Hampton, N. 11 209? 
New London, N. H. 198. 
Newmarket, N II. 419,281. 
New Marlboro, Mass. 152. 
Newport, N. II. 196. 
New Salem, Mass. 422. 
New York City, 325. 

Metropolitan Museum , 
336. 

East-River Bridge, 339. 

Museum Nat. History, 
336. 
Niagara Falls, N. Y. 390. 
Nonquitt, Ma.ss. 92. 



N. Duxbury, Vt 203. 
N. Easton, Mass. 53 b. 
Northport, Me. 425. 

Oakland Beach, R. I. 67. 

Ogdeusburg, N. Y. 400. 
Onset Bay, Mass. 54. 
Oi'ange, Mass. 177. 
Orleans (Isle of), 402, 385. 
Osprey Beach, 74. 
Ossipee Park, N. II. 219. 
Otis, Mass. 143. 148. 
Ottawa, Can. 400. 

Pawtucket, R. I. 62 b. 
I'awtuxet, R. I. G5 a. 
Peabody, Mass. 419, 253. 
Pelham, Mass. 422, 178 b. 
Peru, Mass. 110. 
Peterboro, N. II 413. 179. 
Petersburgli , N. Y. 178 b. 
Petersham, Mass. 422. 
Phillips Beach, 408. 
Pictou, N. S. 404. 
Pittsfiold, N. 11. 417. 
Poland Spring, 308. 
Ponemah Spring, N. H. 423. 
Ponkapog, Mass. 62 a. 
Pownal, Vt. 178 b. 
Powwow Hill, 421. 
Prince Edward Island, 404 
Princeton, Mass. 412. 
Prudence' Island, 65 b. 
Purgatory, Mass, 93. 
Putney Hill, 417. 

Queenston, Ont. 895. 

Randolph, Mass. 38. 
Rangeley Lakes, 292, 245. 
Raymond, N H. 419. 
Readfield, Me. 308. 
Revere, Mass. 409. 
Richfield Springs, 388. 
Richmond, Mass. 146. 
Richmond, Vt. 204, 203. 
Rimouski, P. Q. 402 
Rindge, N. H. 413, 179. 
Rochester, N. Y. 389. 
Rocky Point, R. 1 65 a, 
Rome, N. Y. 888. 
Roseland Park, Conn. 118. 
Royalston, Mass. 177. 
Rutland, Mass. 411. 

Salisbury, Mass. 420, 260. 
Sandown, N H. 414. 
Saxonville, Mass. 124. 
Schenectady, N. Y. 387. 
Seal Harbor, Me. 307. 
Sharon, Mass. 62 b. 
Shelburne Falls, 178 a. 
Shippigan, N. B. 403. 
Shrewsbury Peak, 181. 



Silver Lake, Mass. 51. 
Silver Spring, R. I. 65 a. 
Somerville, 405, 24!), 275. 
S. Acton, Mass. 410. 
Southboro, Mass. 424. 
S. Boston, Mass. 19. 
Southbridge, Mass. 117, 99. 
S. Duxbury, Mass. 51. 
S. Natick,Mass. 124. 
Southwick, Mass. 110. 
S. Wiiliamstown, 157, 146. 
Spofford Lake, 180, 103. 
Squirrel Island, 425. 
Sterling, Mass. 104. 
Stoughtou, Mass. 38. 
Sturbridge, Mass. 117, 99. 
Suffield, Conn. 133. 
Sugar Hill, 234 a. 
Sullivan, Me. 307. 
Summerside, P. E. I. 404. 
Suucook, N. H. 417, 194. 
Sunset Rock, Mass. 86. 
Swampscott, Mass. 407, 251. 
Sydney, C. B. 405. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 389. 

Templeton, Mass. 422. 
Thornton. N. H, 242. 
Thousand Islands, 899. 
Tim Pond, Me. 294. 
Tiverton, R. J. 40. 
Toronto, Ont. 397. 
Trenton Falls, 388. 
Troy, N. H. 179. 
Tyngsboro, Mass 191. 
Tyringham, Mass. 148. 

Wachusett, Mt. 412, 177. 
Waldeu Pond, 407. 
Wales, Mass. 99. 
^Vallingford, Conn. 141. 
Ware, Mass. 421, 
Warner, N. H. 196. 
Warramaug Lake, 113. 
Warwick Neck, 65 a, 67. 
Watatic, Mt. 177. 
Webster, N H. 197. 
Weir Junction. 39, 00. 
Wentworth (The), 267. 
W. Boylston, Mass. 104. 
Wcstford, Mass. 411, 176. 
Westmoreland, N. H. 180. 
Weston, Mass. 175. 
Whirlpool (The), 395. 
Whykokomagh, C. B. 404. 
Wiiichendon, 413, 422. 
Windham, N. IL 414. 
Winthrop, Mass. 409, 20. 
AVolcott, Conn. 96. 
Wollaston Heights. 37. 
Worcester, Mass. 411, 127. 
Worthington, Mass. 143. 

Zoar, Mass. 178 a. 



450 



INDEX. 



Index of Historical Allusions. 



Albanv, N. Y. 349. 

Baii<;oV, Me. 316. 

Battle of Beniiingtou 186. 

lUoodv Brook 162. 

Banker Hill 26. 

Castiiie 302. 

tlie Chesapeake and 
Shannon 255. 

Hubbardton 187. 

the Indians 150. 

Lake George 356. 

Lexington 28. 

PeqUHwkct 286. 

Pequot Hill 72. 

Plattslmrg 367 

Quebec 376. 

Saratoga 355. 

Turner's Falls 178. 
Biddeford 269. 
Block Island 71. 
Boston 7. 

Bi-aintree, Mass. 38. 
Bridgeport, Conn. 85. 
Brooktield, Mass. 130. 
Brunswick, Me. 3n;>. 
Burlington, Vt. 367. 
Cape Ann 248. 
Cajie Cod 55. 
( astiue, Me. 302. 
Chanibly, Can. 208. 
Charlestown, N. H. 165. 
Concord, N. H. 194. 
Crown Point, N. Y. 36-1. 
Cuttyhunk, Mass. 92. 



Danburv, Conn. 116. 
Deeitield, Mass. 163. 
Dover, N. H. 282. 
Duxbury, Mass. 50. 
Fort Montgomery, 344. 
P'ort Ticonderoga, 362. 
F;yebui-g, Me. 286. 
Hadlev, Mass. 161. 
Hampton, N. H. 262. 
Isles of Shoals 266. 
Kennebunl<, Me. 268. 
Lake Champlain 361. 
Lake George 357 
Lebanon, Conn. 98. 
Litchtirld, Conn. 112. 113. 
Londonderry, N. H. 279. 
Louisburg Campaigns 7. 
Lynn, Mass. 250. 
Marblehead, Mass. 256. 
Marshpee, Mass. 56. 
Martha's Vineyard 59. 
Milford, Conn' 84. 
Montreal 'UiS,. 
Mount Desert 300. 
Nantucket 60. 
Narj-agansctt F(n-t Figlii 

69. 
Natick, Mass. 125. 
New Bedford, Mass. 90. 
New Haven, Conn. 77. 
Nmv Loudon. Conn. 72. 
New Yoik 328. 
Newbury])ort, Mass. 260. 
Newijort, II. 1. 40. 



Non-idgewock, Me. 293, 
Northampton, Mass. 159. 
Pemaquid, Me. 299. 
Phipsburg, Me. 297. 
Pilgrim Compact 58. 
Plymouth, Mass. 51. 
Pcirtland, Me. 271. 
Portsmouth, N. H. 264, 
Providence, R. I. 63. 
Quebec 376. 
Rhode Island 46. 
Rye, N. H. 263. 
St. John, N. B. 321. 
Salem, Mass. 253. 
Salisbury, Conn. 123. 
Saybrook, Conn. 75. 
Scarborough, Me. 270. 
Southport. Conn. 87. 
Springheld, Mass. 131. 
otockbridge. Mass. 149. 
Slonin.uton, Conn, 71. 
iSt.iuy Point, N. Y. 343. 
Sudbury, Mass. 125. 
Thomaston, Me. 3Ul. 
Warwick, R. I. 67. 
Wells, Me. 26S. 
West Point, N. Y. .344. 
Whitehall, N. Y. 356. 
While Mts. 222. 
Windsor, Conn. 1.33. 
Worcester, Mass. 129. 
Yale College 75, 76, 80. 
York, Me. 267. 



Index of Biographical Allusions. 



Adams, Charles Francis 38. 
Adams, John 37. 
Adams, John Quincy 37, 
Adams, Samuel 13. 
Allen, Ethan 201, 363. 
Allen, William 146. 
AUston, ■Washington 31, 45. 
Ames, Fisher 117. 
Auilre, Major John 343. 
Andrew, Gov. John A. 24. 
Arnold, Benedict 342, 363, 376. 
Baidis, Nathaniel P. 175. 
Barlow, Joel 116. 
Bariuirds, the 153. 
Barnnm, Phineas T. 86. 
Beecher, Henry Ward 113. 
Beecher, Lyman 79, 113. 
Bellows, Henry W\ 181. 
Ilerkeley, Dean George 45, 
Powdoin, James 92, 310. 
Brentons, the 46. 
Brooks, Gov. John 189. 
Brown, Col. John 152, 358, 863. 



Brown, John 152, 113. 

Bryant, William Cnllen 110, 157, 340. 

Casey, Gen. Silas 67. 

Cass, Lewis 281. 

Chamberlain, Gov. J. L. 311. 

Champlain, Sauuiel de 361, 61, 55. 

Chanijilin Com. Stephen 68. 

Channiug, William Ellery 42. 

Chase, Bishoj) I'hilauder 166. 

Chase, Chief-Justice Salmon P. 166. 

Chase, Senator Dudley 166. 

Choate, Rufus 257. 

Cole, Thomas 348. 

Copley, John Singleton 31, 

Crosswell, Harry 79. 

Dane, Nathan 256. 

Davenport, Aliraham 89. 

Dawes, Henry L. 110. 

Dickinson, Daniel S. 115. 

Dix, John A. 197. 

Dixwell, John 80. 

Douglas, Stephen A. 188. 

Downes, Com. John 62. 



INDEX. 



451 



Dudley, Gov. Thomas 36. 

Eaton, Gen. William 130. 

Edwards, Jonathan 150, 159. 

Eliot. John 36, 120. 

Ellsworth, Oliver 134. 

Emerson, Raljih Waldo 28. 

Fesseiiden, William Pitt 197. 

Fields, the 150. 

Fisk, Wilbur 103. 

Foote, Admiral Andrew H. 79. 

Franklin, Benjamin 11. 

Garrison, William Lloyd 261. 

Gays, the 24. 

Goffe, Gen. William 161. 

Goodrich, C. A. 79. 

Goodrich, S. G. 116. 

Gorton, Samuel 67. 

Grants, the 134. 

Greeley, Horace 192. 

Greene, Gen. G. S. 67. 

Greene, Gen. Nathaniel 67. 

Grow, Galusha A. US. 

Hale, Senator John I'. 213, 281. 

Halleck, Fitz Greene 76. 

Hancock, John 38. 

Haraden, Ca]>t. Jonathan 248. 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel 254, 28, 210, 311. 

Hazens, the 280. 

Holmes, Oliver Wendell 30, 146. 

Hooker, Gen. Joseph 162. 

Hosnier, Harriet G. 85. 

Howard, Gen. Oliver O. 291. 

Howe, Ellas, Jr. 130. 

Hudson, Hendrick 55, 340. 

Ives, Bishup Levi S. 140. 

Judson, Adonirain 275. 

Knowlton, Col. Thomas 118. 

Knox, Gen. Henry 301. 

Lander, Gen. F. W. 254. 

Lawrences, the 279. 

Lincoln, Gen. Benjamin 24. 

Lon.trollow, Henry W. 33, 311. 

liOwell, James Russell 30. 

Lvon, Gen. Nathaniel 118. 

ivfanstield. Gen. J. K. F. 107. 

Marsli, Geo. P. 199. 

Mead, Larkin G. 103. 

-Melville, Herman 146. 

Miautonomoh, 72, 97. 

Miller, William 146. 

Mills, Samuel J. 15(5. 

Monis, Rabbi Judah 126. 

Mor.se, S. F. B. 79, 346. 

Murray, John 246. 

Murr.iy, W. H. H. 76. 

Nanunteuo 98. 



Nott, Eliphalet 118. 

Ossoli, Margaret Fuller, Countess d' 30. 

Paine, Thomas 90. 

Parker, TJiomas 260. 

Passaconaway, 194. 220, 222. 

Pepperell, Sir William 265. 

Percival, James Gates 140. 

Perrv, Com. Oliver Hazard 68. 

Pliilip, King 66. 

Phips, Sir William 298. 

Pickering, Timotliy 254. 

Pierce, Franklin 196, 311. 

Powers, Hiram 199. 

Preble, Com. Edward 272. 

Prescott, William H. 254, 105. 

Putnam, Gen. Israel 119, 89, 254. 

Rale, Sebastian 293. 

Rantoul, Robert, Jr. 256. 

Rumford, Count 195. 

St. Castine, Vincent, Baron de 302. 

Sandeman, Robert 116. 

Saxe, John Godfrey 208. 

Seabiiry, Bisho]> Samuel 74. 

Shaw, Henry W. ("Josh. Billings") 153. 

Slierman, Roger 79. 

Silliman, Benjamin 79. 

Sniitii, Joscpii 200. 

Standish, Miles 51. 

Stowe, Mrs. Harriet Beecher 113, 

Stuart, Gilbert C. 68. 

Thoreau, Henry D. 28. 

Tickuor, George 17, 167. 

TrumbuUs, the 98. 

Uncas, 72, 97. 

Ward, Gen. Arteinas 126. 

Wai-d, Gen. F. T. 254. 

Warren, Joseph 27. 

Washburnes, the 291. 

Webster, Daniel 49, 287, 197, 210. 

Webster, Noah 79. 

Whitefield, George 259. 

Whitney, Prof. W.D. 159. 

Whittier, John Greenleaf 261. 

Williams, Col. Ephraira 156, 356. 

Williston, Samuel 110. 

Wilson, Henry 282. 

Winslow, Admiral John A. 50. 

Winslow, Gov. Edward 50. 

Winslow, Gen. John 50. 

Winslow, Gov. Josiah 50. 

Winthrop, John 14. 

Winthrop, Theodore 79. 

Wolcotts, the 134. 

Wonnolancet 194. 

Yoimg, Brigham 104, 200. 



Index of Quotations. 



Adams, John Quinoy 38, 58. 
Andrew. John A. 149. 
Bartol, Dr. C. A. 215. 



Beecher, HeniT Ward 105, 114, 117, 121, 
122, 147, 148, 149, 151, 152, 153, 205. 
Berkeley, Dean 45. 



452 



INDEX. 






Biard, Father 307. 

Bremer, Fredrika 2S, 147, 190, 217, 238. 

Bryant, William Cidlen 151. 

Burke, Edmund 248. 

Oiitadian HanJ-Book 174, 290, 372. 

C'liamplain, JSanniel de 361. 

Chapman, Rev. Dr. IGG. 

Charlevoix, Father 294. 

Chateavil»rian<l ;i44. 

Coniioftieut Legislature 70, 72. 

Coolidge and Mansfield 191, 192. 

Cooper, J. P'enimore 26, 29. 

Courier, Boston 141. 

Curtis, George William 144. 

Dickens, Charles 9, 19, lOG, 190, 

Dilke, Sir Charles 20, 30, 57, 165, 212, 

378. 
Drake, Francis S. 13, 28, 42, 50, 150, 261. 
D^\•igllt, Fres. Timothy 71, 86, 98, 99, 

146, 158, 249, 260, 275, 366. 
Emersim, Ralph Waldo 28. 
Everett, Edward 27, 52, 156, 215. 
Field, Darby 222. 
Gookin, Daniel, 59, 69. 
Greylock, Godfrey 143, 145, 146. 
Hawthorne, Nathaniel 151, 154, 155, 179. 
Hayes, Dr. 206. 
Heinans, Mrs. 52. 

Hitchcock, Dr. Edward 152, 178, 179. 
Hoar, Judge 129. 
Howells, William D. 103, 386. 
Humphreys, Col. 86. 
Irving, Washington 344, 346. 
Johnston, Lady Arabella 254. 
Josselyn, John 7, 15. 
Kemble, Fuuuy 147. 



King, Thomas Starr 212, 214, 215, 216, 
221, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 232. 
I 235, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241. 

Lewis, Alonzo 22. 

LongfeUow, Henry W. 125, 126, 132, 246, 
I 39, 51, 76, 324. 
ILossing, Benson J. 73, 356. 
iLyell, Sir Charles 60, 146, 183, 223. 

Mannior, X. 377. 

Marryatt, Capt. 143. 

: Mather, Cotton 38, 51, 72, 76, 78, 84, 98, 

I 136, 1(!3, 253, 257, 260. 

^Morton, Tlionias 38. 

'Feviwinid : a hullad 300. 

'Percival, J. G. 217. 

Pring, Capt. 317. 

Sedgwick, Miss 143. 

Sigourney, Mrs. 97, 139. 

Silliman, Prof. 109, 140, 147, 377. 
|Smitli, Caiit. John 49, 55, 257. 

Southev, Rol)crt 189. 
j Taylor,' Bayard 232. 
jTliomas. Judge 129. 

Thoreau, 11. D. 28, 49, 55, 57. 
'Toc(pieville, de 80. 

Trumbull, John 159. 

Twain, Mark 137. 

Warville, Brissot de 41, 63, 107, 130, 135, 
264. 

Weymouth, Capt. 301, 317. 

Whittier, John G. 89, 104, 144, 195, 215, 
219, 220, 248, 256, 260, 262, 263, 275, 
294, .305, 321. 

Williams, Roger 69. 

Wi)ithrop, Theodore 243, 244, 296, 297. 

WorUey, Lady Emma S. 91, 92, 246. 



INDEX. 



453 



Index to Railways. 



Ashuelot 102. 

Athol and EnfieW 100. 

Bangor and Piscataquis 2f)5. 

Boston and Albany 124, 141. 

Boston, Clinton, and Fit(:"hl>nrg 125 

Boston, Concord, and Montreal 20i). 

Boston, Hartford, and Erie 117. 

Woonsoelcet Division 120. 
Boston, Lowell, and Nashua 1S8. 
Boston and Maine 275. 

Dover and Winnepesaukee 282. 
Boston and Providence 02. 
Cape Cod 54. 
Cheshire 179. 
Coucord 192 

Concord and Claremont 196. 
Connecticut and Passunipsic 166. 
Connecticut River 157. 
Connecticut Valley 106. 
Connecticut Western 120. 
Danbury and Norvvallc 115. 
Eastern 248. 

Aniesbury Branch 261. 

Essex Branch 257. 

Marblehead Branch 255. 

P. G. F. and Conway 213. 
European and Noi'tli American 318. 
Fairhaven 64. 
Fitchburg 175. 
Grand Trunk 287. 

Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill 94. 
Housa tonic 114, 147. 



Knox and Lincoln 297. 
Lowell and Lawrence 279. 
Maine Central 307, 309. 

Androscoggin 291. 
Manchester and Lawrence 279. 
Monadnock 179. 
Naugatiick 111. 

New Brunswick and Canada 323. 
New Haven, Hartford, and .Springfield 

133. 
New Haven and Stonington 71. 
New Haven and Northampton 108. 
New York and New Haven 84. 
Newburvport 276. 
Northern (N. H.) 197. 
New London Northern 96. 
Old Colony 36. 

Portland and Ogdensburg 284. 
Portland and Rochester 213. 
Portland and Oxford Central 287. 
Providence and Bristol 66. 
Providence and Worcester 93. 
Rensselaer and Saratoga 187, 350 
Rutland and Washington 187. 
Salem and Lowell 255. 
youth Shore 48. 
Stonington and Providence 67. 
Vermont Central 199. 

Rutland Division 181. 
Vermont and Mass. 177. 
Worcester and Nashua 104. 



Steamers. 



Boston to Bangor 316. 

" " Hingham 22. 

" " Nahant 20. 

" " St. John 321. 
Fall River Line 47. 
Norwich *' 119. 
Stonington " 71. 
Martha's Vineyard 59, 92. 
St. Liiwrence River 873. 
Hudson '• 340. 



Saguenay River 375, 385. 
Mt. Desert Line 302. 
Isles of Shoals 265. 
Narragansett Bay 65. 
Cas('0 " 274. 

Passamaquoddy Bay 322. 
Lake Champlain 361. 

" George 357. 

" Winnepesaukee 215. 



INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 



Page 

Adirondacks, Route to the , . 15 

Boston and Bangou Steamships Opposite front cover. 

Boston Home Journal G 

Commonwealth (Boston) 14 

Cook (Thomas) and Son 19 

Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R 15 

Eastern Railroad Folding map. 

Tall-River Line Front cover. 

Florence KNrrTiNa Silk 17 

Frank Lesue's Publications Opposite back cover. 

GuiDE-BooKs 3, 21, 23 

IIowells's (W. D.) Latest WoRks 14 

Indepentdent (The) 8 

James's (HtNEY) Latest Works 12 

Lippincott's Magazine . , IG 

Lothrop (D.) & Co.'s Late Publications 13 

Macullar, Parker & Co. ...........1 

Magazine op American History Opposite titlepage. 

Maine Woods and Lakes . 7 

Manhattan Magazine . 22 

Maritime-Provinces Guide-Book 23 

Mount-Desert Steamboats Opposite front cover. 

MouNT-KiNEO House • 7 

Nantucket Scr.\ps 7 

National Express Company 5 

New-England Conservatory of Musio Back cover. 

NoNOTUCK Silk Co. . . . 17 

Nooks and Corners op New-England Coast 18 

Novels, New 9 

Old Colony Railroad Front cover. 

Outing . . . . . » . , 11 

Parker House 20 

Pathfinder Railway Guide 2 

Ponemah, Hotel 4 

Portland Steamers ...... 3 

Red-Letter Days Akroad .......••• 10 

Saratoga Line (The) 15 

Stockbridge House 9 

Travel Books 8, 5, 7, 18 

Vendome, Hotel 10 

WiHTE Mountains, Drake's 18 

Wiiite-Mountatn Goide-Book, Osgood's 21 

Woman's Journal .12 




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Gloves, Neckwear, Handkerchiefs, Hosiery, TJnderwear, Umbrellas, etc 



ADVEnTlSKME.\ IS. 



ATTENTION, TOURISTS!! 



UNLESS YOU HAVE A COPY OF 




mmmjwBmi 






^^;yg^»vfT r> -i w M^^ - ,p,y, 







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OF 



yi/flV ENGLAND /\ND THE PROVINCES. 

And the Oldest Railway Guide in the United States or Canada, 

YOU MUST EXPECT DELAYS AND DISAPPOINTMENTS. 



THE PATHFINDER 

Is the only recos^nized organ of tlie New England General Ticket and Passenjrer 
Aoents' Association, and the Association of General Freight Agents, and the 
only Guide published with two large 

2-COLORED MAPS. -2 

The finest and largest three-colored maps ever engraved, and superior 
to any map sold for a dollar. 

NOTE THE PBSCE. l-wtofaTlrlf/o. CHEAPEST OFFiGIAL CUIOE. 



Make no mistake. Ask for the "Pathfinder,'' and insist upon havino; the 
" Pathfinder." Sold bv all Newsdealers and on all Trains and Steamboats. 
Sample copy free. Address 

New England Railway PuWisliing Co., 67 Federal St, Bos' on. 



A D VE li '1 'IS EMEN TS. 



DAILY LINE OF FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS BETV/EEN 



One of the Steamers "TKKMONT" (new), "JOHN BROOKS," 
or *' FOREST CUT," 

LEAVES INDIA WHARF, BOSTON, FOR PORTLAND, 
Every Evening (Sundays excepted) at 7 P. M. 

Connecting, on arrivcal, with Maine Central, Knox & Lincohi, Portland & 

Ogfhaislmrg, Gran<l Trunk, and Portland & Rochester Railroads, and 

witii Bangor & Machias Steamers for lunnts on the Coast of Maine. 

Tliis line aftMi-ds a most <lesiral)le Route to LKWIST(>\, OLD OHCIItRD 

BEAOe, Poland Spring, Raiigeley Lakes, MOUNT DRSKKT, Beihel, 

(iorliam, N.R., North Cunway, trawJords, Fabjaiis, etc. 

finest OceKu Trip on J\}astern Coast and best Ifotrtr to WHITE 

31 OV M'AINS, and Inland and Scasidf Hesotts of 3Iaiitr. 

THROUGH and EXCURSION TltKETS at LOW RATES. 

STATE-ROOMS SECURED IN ADVANCE. 

Leave Portland for Boston every evening (Sundaj's excepted) iii 7 o'clock, 
connecting on arrival with ttio Earliest Trains on all Diverging Lines. 

WM. WEEKS, Ag't, BOSTON. J. F. LISGOMB, Gen'l Ticket Ag't, PORTLAND. 
J. B. COYLE, General Agent, PORTLAND, MAINE. 

e-S£NRY IRVING'S liVIPRESSiOI^S OF AMERECA. Narrated in 
a Series of Sketches, Chronicles, and Conversations. By Joseph 
Hatton. 1 vol. 12mo. $1.50. 

*' One of the most edifying books of the year. INlr. ITatton travelled recently 
tliruuRh the states in conipriny with the great English actor, and their odd exi)eri- 
en IS and aciitc observations m the American cities afl'ord a vast fimd of aiimse- 
nient and interest." 

OSGOOD'S AiV<aERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS. Kew England, White 

ftSountains, Rflaritime Provinces. Each iu 1 vol. 16mo. With 
scores of mai)S and i)lans. $11.50. 

These standard guides have just heen thoroughly revised, at great cost, 
and are invaluable to all summer tourists. Prices of all rotttes and hotels; 
legends, T»oems, and histories of localities; descriptions of scenery and 
architecture. 

" ''^he Osgood guide-books are much the best we have ever had in this country, 
and they can challenge comparison with Baedeker's, whicli are the liest in Europe. 
'! he volume devoted to the White Mountains is full, precise, compact, sensible, and 
honest," — Ntw-rork Tribune. 

OSGOOD'S COMPLETE POCKET GUIDE TO EUROPE. Re- 
vised and enlarged etlition of 18(^4. With new and complete alpliabeti- 
c.il dictioTiary of Kuropean summer resorts and health resorts, nnd 
their distances and fares from Paris. 1 vol. 32mo. With six maps. 
$ 1 .50. 

Infinite riches in a little room." — Nejo- York Mail arid E.rpress. 

" A gem of comprehensiveness, compactness, and good taste." — New-York 
Tribune, 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



AD VER T1.SEMEN TJS. 



HOTEL PONEMAH. 

Thz's new tiJtd attractive House, ha>tdso7nely furnished, ajid provided with modern 
i}>ifrp7'eme7tts, offers rare indiiceinents to those who appreciate the comforts of a first-class 
hotel, located on high ground and commanding vie70s of great extent and rare beauty. 

' The grounds embrace nearly forty acres of land, beautifully -lucoded 7vith groves of 







vzaple, oak, pine, and chestnut trees of magmjicrnt gycivth, and contain the celebrated 
Milford Sprinsr, and the recently-developed but already-popular Pone?nah Spruig. 

Plans of hotel >nay be seen and roo7fis secured, on application to hAJ^-i^'-^ ..,/>,/ 
LFF, Proprietors of Hotel Brims-wick, Boston, or C. A. GLEASON, Matiager, at the Hotel. 
{P. O. Addi-ess, A 7n/ierst Station, N. H.) 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 



ESTABLISHED 1841. 

NATIONAL EXPRESS CONIPANY, 

BOSTON. 

Main Office, 300 Washington Street 

(Where Travellers and Visitors to the City will find Desk-room.) 
BRANCH OFFICE, 91 KILBY STREET. 



Reaches a large part of New York State, Pennsylvania, New 
Jersey, and alljwints icest of Buffalo, as far as the Pacific Coast and 
Gulf' of Mexico. Special rates and arrangements, of great advantage 
to Shippers. Quick Time; rates as low as any; every possible accom- 
modation and just treatment guaranteed. Express and General Tele- 
plione in office. 

Calls made for shipments as late as 8 p. m., and later when neces- 
sar}'. 

If employes are not prompt and courteous, please report to me. 

MERRET SEELEY, Superintendent. 

CHARMING NEW TRAVEL-VOLUMES. 



OVER THE BORDER. 

By Miss E. B. Chase. 1 vol. 12mo. Illustrated with Ileliotype 
Engravings from Original Drawings. $1.50. 
A charming description of recent summer travel in Nova Scotia, with 
piquant sketches of life and manners in Acadia, the land of Evangeline, 
and descriptions of the grand scenery and singular people about the 
Basin of Minas. 

A New Volume of Shtrhes by Mr. IloweU.s. 

THREE VILLAGES. 

Bv William D. HowELLS. 1vol. 16mo. Little-Classic size. $1.25. 

In this pleasant record of close and kindly observation, Mr. Ilnwells 
gives descriptions and reminiscences of three peculiarly inten-.-ting 
American communities and their people, making rare and delightful pen 
sketches, as dainty and delicate as his "Venetian Days" and "Italian 
Journeys." The villages are Gnadeuhiitten, in Ohio, and Lexington 
and Shirlev, in Massachusetts. 



JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



AD VEUTitiEMEJSi TS. 



BOSTON HOME JOURNAL, 

T H El 

Society aM Literary Paper of Boston. 

Containing accurate reviews of the Society Events, 

Movements in Literary and Art Circles, 

Musical and Dramatic Criticisms, 

Hotel and Tourists' Notes. 

During the Summer Months a special feature of the paper 
is its chronicle of doings at the fashionable resorts. 

Subscriptions received at the oflBce of 

BOSTON HOME JOURNAL, 

Marlboro Building, 403 & 405 Wasliington Street, Boston. 

W. WALLACE WAUGH, Manager. 



SPECIAL NOTICE. 

FREQUENT application to us for information regarding Ho- 
tels and Summer Resorts led us several years since to 
open a 

HOTEL AND TOURIST DEPARTMENT, 

in connection with our paper. Our rooms are elegantly fitted up, 
and we have secured full and authentic intelligence in regard to 
the location, accommodations, cliaracter, prices, and attractions 
of the LEADING HOTELS AND SUMMER RESORTS, and timc-tahles, 
CIRCULARS, and official statements from the railroad and steam- 
boat lines. This information will be cheerfully furnished with- 
out CHARGE to all applicants, so that persons about to travel 
can select their routes and arrange all the details of their journey 
at our office. 

Apply or address, with stamp, 

W. WALLACE WAUr.lT. Mnnager, 

403 Wasliingtoii SUetit, Boston, INIass. 



jiDVE li TJS EM EN TS. 




IS^CT- KlIISrEO HCOXJSE, 

MOOSE HE AD LAKE, MAINE. 
The favorite summer resort of Northern Maine. For descriptive circulars, address 
O. A. DENNEN. Manager, Kineo, Maine. 



WOODS AND LAKES OF MAINE. 

A Trip from Moosehcad Lake to New Brunswick in a Birch-Bark 
Canoe. By Lucius L. Hubbakd. IManv new and exquisite illus- 
trations by Will L. Taylor. Cloth, $3.00; half calf, $5.50; tree 
calf or antique morocco, $8.00. 
"The book is full of beautiful bits of nature-painting. All lovers of the 
finer kinds of out-door literature will find this a most charming book." 
— Wheelman. 
** A gentleman's book in every sense." — Literary World. 

This book also contains a large and valuable topograjihical map of 
Northern Maine, loith its lakes, mountains, rivers, roads, and villages. 

NANTUCKET SCRAPS; 

Or, The Experiences of an Off-Tslander, in Season and out of Season, 
among a Passing People. By Mrs. Jane G. Austin. 16mo. $L50. 
A piquant chronicle of the peculiarities and drolleries of the inhab- 
itants of "The Purple Island," the secluded land of noble and antique 
virtues and old-time manners and traditions. 

*' Pleasant reading by the winter fire, as well as in the salt summer 
breezes of the island itself." — Transcript. 

" This charming book comes to us with the freshness of a breeze from 
Nantucket, its ozone being as healthy as it is invigorating. The book 
fascinates from cover to cover." — Frank Leslie's Ilhistrated Netospaper. 

For sale by Booksellers. Sent, postpaid, on receipt of price, by the 
Publishers, 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



AD VEIITISEMENTS. 



THE INDEPENDENT, 

No. 251 Broadway, New York. 



A FAMILY NEWSPAPER 



OF THE 



FIRST CLASS. 



SUBSCRIPTION, 13.00 PER YEAR. 

Every reader of OSGOOD'S NEW-ENGT.ANI> GUIDE- 
BOOK is requested to send a postal card 
for a free Specimen Copy. 



ADDRESS 



THE INDEPENDENT, 

p. O. Box 2787, 

NE^^^ YORK. 



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■J 

STOCKBRIDQE, BERKSHIRE CO., 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

BRILLIANT NEW NOVELS, 

JUST PUBLISHED BY 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., BOSTON, 

And sent, postpaid, on receipt of Price. 



MISS LUDINGTON'S SISTER. By Edward Bellamy. 

I vol. i6mo. #1.25. 

A brilliant and vivid story by the author of the famous novel, " Dr. 
Heidenhoff's Process." 

WHERE THE BATTLE WAS FOUGHT. By Charles 

Egbert Craddock. i vol. i2mo. ^1.50. 

A delightful novel by one of the foremost of the new Southern writers, 
whose Tennessee stories have aroused a wide-spread interest and appre- 
ciation. 

STRAY LEAVES FROM STRANGE LITERATURE. 

By Lafcadio Hearn. i vol. i6mo. ^1.50. 

A series of rare ind entertaining stories, from the ancient classics of 
Asia. 

A MIDSUMMER MADNESS. By Mrs. Ellen Olney 
Kirk, i vol. i6mo. ^1.25. 

Mrs. Kirk's novels (of which this is the latest) are widely known for 
their sparkling life. 

EUSTIS. By Robert Apthorp Boit. i vol. i2mo. ^1.50. 

A strong and well-sustained novel of Southern life and character. 
AT DAYBREAK. By A. Stirling, i vol. i6mo. gi.25. 

An idyl of rural life in New England. 

AN AVERAGE MAN. By Robert Grant, i vol. i2mo. 

^1.50. 

The author of the "Confessions of a Frivolous Girl" has in this 
bright novel scored another notable triumph. 

TINKLING CYMBALS. By Edgar Fawcett. i vol. i2mo. 

^1.50. 

Modern American society is here depicted with grace and insight, 
by one of our foremost novelists. 

MINGO, and other Sketches in Black and White. By Joel 
Chandler Harris, i vol. i6mo. ^1 25. 

A groujj of entertaining stories of Southern life, by the immortal 
" Uncle Remus." 



10 



A D VEIl TISEM EN TS. 



BOSTON'S PALATIAL HOTEL, 




© ®D5l!iai7 

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fl ->-5it Jl. g. % •4<r 



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viojnucalth Avenne, ^'tJie Champs Ely sees of Amer- 
ica^ Open fire-place, steam-heat, and ventilators 
in every room. Magnificent parlors, dining-Jiall, 
and rotunda. Two passenger elevators. Entirely 
fire- proof. 

By the aitthor of the *^ Stoddard Lectures ^ 
A IMAGr.'IFICENT VOLUME OF TRAVELS. 

RED-LETTER DAYS ABROAD. 

By JOHxN L. STODDARD. 

One fine octavo volume, with 130 beautiful illustrations. Magnificently 
bound, witii full gilt edges and bevelled boards. In box. Price, in 
cloth, ^5.00; in tree calf or antique morocco, ^10.00. 
"It IS not easy to say which are the most interestine:, — the finely written 

accounts or the pictorial views themselves; but each wonderfully helps the other ; 

it is like actual travelling." — Hartford Ti}nes. 

" The picturesque and peculiar features of the countries have been selected 

with taste and judgment, the descriptions are vivid and animated, the diction 

smooth and ,L;raceful, and the relation varied and strengthened by anecdotes 

illustrative and personal." — Good Literature. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



AD VEItTlSEMENTS. 



11 



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12 ADVER TIS KM EN TS. 



The WOMAN'S Journal. 

A "Weekly Newspaper, published every Saturday in Boston, de- 
voted to tiie interests of Woman, — to her educational, industrial, legal, 
and political Equality, and especially to her right of Suffrage. 

LUCY STONE, ) 

H. B. BLACKWELL, [ Ediiors. 

ALICE STONE BLACKWELL,) 

T. W. HIGGINSON, ^ Editorial 
JULIA WARD HOWE.iConiributors. 



MARY A. LIVERMORE, 
Mrs. FRANCES D. GAGE, 
Mrs. H. M. T. CUTLER, 
LOUISA M. ALCOTT, 
ELIZABETH STUART PHELPS, 
MARY F. EASTMAN, 



Occasional 
Contributors. 



SUSAN C. VOGL, Business Manager. 

Terms — $2.50 a year, $1.25 for six months, 65 cents for three 
months, in advance; 6 cents for single copy. 

Club Rates — 5 copies, 1 year, $10. 

Bo.sTON Office — No. 5 Park Street, where copies are for sale and 
subscriptions received. 

HENRY JAIVIES'S LATEST WORKS. 

Each in One Volume. l2mo. $1.50. 
THE SIEGE OF LONDON. 

" Full of cleverness, and provokes comparison with some of the best things of 
Thackeray." — New- York Star. 

DAISY MILLER. 

" The movement is brisk, the language is exquisite, and the plot has a simple 
sufQciency which makes the ensemble very attractive." — Boston I'ranscript. 

PORTRAITS OF PLACES. 

A very delightful series of papers on Venice and Florence, Turin and 
Genoa, ilheims and Laon, Kouen and Etretat, Oxford and C'antcrliury, 
Ei>S()m anil Ventnor, Warwick and JNIoumouth, Niagara and Saratoga, 
Newport and Quebec. 

" Delightful reading." — London Graphic. 

" Grace, defniileness, full light, are the artistic qualities here shown . . . full of 
the pleasantest rvmml!^cenccs." —Atlantic Monthly. 

" Ihe book is worth having and keeping." — P. G. Hamerton, in The Academy 
(London). 

" Mr. James nurses his souvenirs until they shine like mellow wine — holds thom 
in his warming hand as a jeweller does an opal, until all their iridescence comes 
out, all their secret chanu and suavity breathe forth in most melodious speech." — 
The Critic. 

TALES OF THREE CITIES. 
Delightful stories of the three chief cities of Cliristendom, full of 
piquancy and delicate finish. 

JAMES K. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



AD VER TISEM ENTS. 1 3 



SUCCESSFUL BOOKS. 



A FAMILY FLIGHT THROTJQH SPAIN. 4to, jjilt, $2.50. It is sufficient to say of this 
attractive book that it possesses all tlie rare cliarin of <lescription, the piquant style, the 
novelty and freslmess, wliicli characterize tlie " 1-light through France, ' Germany, 
Norvk'ay, and Switzerland," and the "Flight over Egypt and Syria," by Fdwakd 
Everett Hale and Miss Susan Hale. Like the books last named, its illustrations 
are happily chosen and well e.xecuted. 

ALL ABOARD FOR THE LAKES AND MOUNTAINS. By Edward A. Rand, author of 
"All Aboard for Sunrise Lands," " Pushing Ahead," " Roy's Dory," '* Tent in the Notch." 
&c., &c. Boards. $1.75; extra, cloth, bevelled and gilt, $2.25. Mr. Rand writes of 
famous lakes and mountains in the most entertaining and instructive manner. The two 
boys, Ralph and Rick, are important personages in the present story, and their journey 
is made all the more realistic by the nearly 200 pictures which illustrate the book. 

AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. By Prof. J. E. NoURSH, U. S. N. 
577 pp. $V30. Scholarly, graphic, and intensely interesting, this must be regarded as 
the standard book upon the subject of which it treats. Accompanied by numerous 
illustrations and a large circumpolar map in three colors, showing the route and highest 
position reached in each hemisphere. 

OUR BUSINESS BOYS. What Eighty-three Business Men say. 60 cents. 

THE GREAT COMPOSERS. By HEZEKIAH BUTTERWORTH. Illustrations by Lungren. 

$1.00. 

HEALTH AND STRENGTH PAPERS FOR GIRLS. By Dr. Mary G. Safford and 
Mary E. Allen. 60 cents. 

HELPFUL THOUGHTS FOR YOUNG MEN. By THEODORE D. WOOLSEY, D. D., LL. D., 

late President of Yale College. 60 cents. 
THE TRAVELLING LAW SCHOOL. By BENJ. Vaughan ABBOTT. Interesting Studies 

of the Principles of Government and Laws relating to Business. $1.00. 
PLEASANT AUTHORS. By AMANDA B. HARRIS. Biographies of Distinguished Authors, 

for Young People. $i.oq. 

A HISTORY OF THE AMERICAN PEOPLE. By ARTHUR Oilman. Sixth thousand. 

i2mo. $1.50. 

LIFE OF OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES. By E. E. BROWN. i2mo. $1.50. 

WILD FLOWERS, AND WHERE THEY GROW. By Amanda B. Harris. Sixty illus- 
trations by Miss L. B. Humphrey. 8vo, extra, cloth, beautifully bound, gilt edges. 
$3.00. A charming chronicle of the rambles, explorations, antl merry-makings of a gay 
household. 

YOUNG FOLKS' LIBRARY. Issued monthly, in strong manilla paper bindings, at TWENTY- 
FIVE Cents per volume, $3.00 per year. No second edition will be printed in this 
style. Each volume represents some favorite American author. Libraries will do well 
to order several copies of eacli volume, as these choice books will be published in cloth 
bindings at from $1.25 to $1.75 a volume. Those who forward $6.00 for two subscriptions 
for one year, or lor 24 volumes as they may select, will receive a copy of each of D. 
Lothrop & Co.'s four magazines. Now ready : " Tip Lewis and his Lamp," by Pansy; 
" Margie's Mission," by Marie Oliver; "Kitty Kent's Troubles, ' by Julia A. Eastman. 
Other volumes announced as ready. 

For sale by all booksellers, or sent, postpaid, o>i receipt oj" price, by the publishers. 



POPULAR MAGAZINES. 

BABYLAND. For Babies. 50 cents a year. 

OUR LITTLE MEN AND WOMEN. For Younger Readers. $1.00 a year. 

THE PANSY. For Boys and Girls. 75 cents a year. 

WIDE AWAKE. For Young Folks and all the Family. $3.00 a year 



r'REJE: FOii T^ATO is<ioisrmis 1 



.-je name of the 
strated, and will 



A new periodical of the highest character will be issued in July, under th 

CHAUTAUQUA YOUNG FOLKS' JOURNAL. It will be finely illust 

contain articles covering the field of science and literature, by English and American autliors 
of high reputation. The very acceptable supplementary readings contained in WIDE 
Aware will also appear in this periodical, which will be sent for two months free to those 
making early application. 

Catalogue 0/ upwards 0/1,000 choice books for home reading sent on application. 

D. LOTHROP & CO., Publishers, 

Franklin and Hawley Streets, Boston. 



14 Al) VEU TISEMEJS' 7 .S. 



HOLD I 



^2.50 a year ; 5 cents single copy. 



SPECIMEN N'JiVIBEaS FORWARDED FREE ON APPLICATION. 



A Representative New England Weekly Journal! 

BOSTON COMMONWEALTH. 



Politics, Literature, Comment, Art, and News ! 

OFFICE, NO. 25 BROMFIELD STREET, BOSTON 



CHAS. W. SLACK, Editor and Proprietor. 

LATEST WORKS OF W. D. HOWELLS. 

A WOMAN'S REASON. DR. BREEN'S PRACTICE. 

A MODERN INSTANCE. A FEARFUL RESPONSIBILITY. 

Each in 1 vol., I'imo, %\M. The four volumes in a neat box, $G 50. 

" There has been no more rigidly artistic writing done in America since Hawthome'* 
time." — The Ci'itic {New York). 

" Exquisite pieces of workmanship." — Neto-Orlcans Democrat. 

A LITTLE GIRL AMONG THE OLD MASTERS. Introduction and 
comment by W. D. HoWELLS. 56 illustrations. $2.00. Bound in parchment, 
$:].00. 
Curious sketches, by a bright little maiden, sojourning at Florence, Siena, and 
other ancient Italian cities. 

" Its cliiirm is irresistible. It ought to hnve a pl.'ice by the journal of "Pet Marjorie," as 
one of the rare and attractive exotics of literature and art." — Boston Traveller. 

MR. HOWELLS'S PLAYS. 

THE REGISTER. 32mo. 50 cts. 

THE SLEEPING CAR. 32mo. 50 cts. THE PARLOR CAR. 50 cts. 

"Written nith all the exquisite liternry skill of which Mr. How lis is so thoroughly a 
master, and every page sparkles with bright touches of dainty humor." — Syracuse Journal. 
OUT OF THE QUESTION. 18mo. $1.25. 
A COUNTERFEIT PRESENTMENT. ISmo. $1.25. 

CHOICE AUTOBIOGRAPHIES. Each with aTritical and P.iocraphical E.'say 
by Mr. IIowells. 7 vols. Frederica Sophia Wilhelmina, .Margravine of Bai- 
reirth (Vols. I. and 11.). Lord Herbert of Chcrbury, and '! homas Ellwood 
(III.). VittoTio Alflori (IV.). Carlo Goldoni (V.). Edward Gibbon (VI.). 
Fran<^ois Marmontel (VII. and VIII.). 
Little-classic size. $1.25 a volume. 
" Most fascinating." — Worcester Spy. " Each is a literary gem." — The Independent. 

For sale by Booksellers. Sent, postpaid, on receipt of price, by the Publishers, 
JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



AD VER TISEMExW TS. 1 5 



THE SARATOGA LINE. 



BEiAWARE 11 \mm urn m 1 1 

THE ONLY COMFORTABLE ROUTE TO 

THE ADIRONDACKS, 

AND THE ONLY LINE TO 

SARATOGA, 

LAKE GEORGE, 

SHARON SPRINGS, 
HOWE'S CAVE, AND 
COOPERSTOWN. 

77?^ Shortest Route to IVIontreal and the Provinces. 



TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 

via Saratoga, Lake George, Lake Cliamplain, and Burlington. 
No otlier route can offer as great attractions, for by special ar- 
rangement all-rail tickets reading via Delaware and Hud- 
son Canal Company's Railroad are accepted on the 
Lake Champlain Steamers. 



SEE THAT YOUR TICKETS EEAD VIA THIS EOUTE. 



Tickets and time-tables at all the principal railroad ticket offices 
in the United States. For information apply to 

D. M. KENDRICK, 

Albany, N. T. General Passenger Agent. 



IG ADVERTISEMENTS. 



A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY MAGAZINE. 



LIPPmCOTT'S KlAGAZIf^E, 

A POPULAR MONTHLY OF 

GENERAL LITERATURE. 



Among the chief periodicals of the country, Lippincott's Maga- 
zine has ac(iuired the distinctive reputation of being "eminently 
readable." The special aim of its conductors is to secure such treat- 
ment of the great variety of topics embraced within its scope as shall 
render it attractive to the general mass of intelligent readers, a favorite 
in the family circle, and a means of culture as well as of entertainment. 

While fiction, in the form of serials and of short stories, holds a 
prominent place in its pages, it has gained particular notice by its 
sketches of travel and adventure, studies of life and character, and 
articles on natural history and similar topics, written with the freshness 
that comes from personal observation and experience, in a lively style, 
and with abundant auecdotical illustration. 

• 

WHAT IS SAID ABOUT LIPPINCOTT'S MAGAZINE. 

" Pome of the most interesting serials of the day appear in its pages, and its 
writers are among the best known in current literature." — Chicago Evening 
Journal. 

" Maintains an even excellence which renders it a favorite with its constitu- 
ency of readers. In the department of short stories this magazine is particularly 
fortunate, having many fresh, readable, and popular contributions. Its descrip- 
tive papers are of the best quality." — Boston Saturday Evening Gazette. 

'* Lippincott's is delightful from cover to cover." — PhUaclelj)kia Ledger, 

" Is a welcome and attractive monthly visitor to our study. It furni>hes 
annnrdly a va.«t fund of entertaining and instructive literature at a couijiaratively 
nominal prico. It can be safely introdnccnl into every family, and will prove a 
favorite everywhere." — /^i?it'ro?i/, iV"<?r York. 

"Full of fresh, entertaining, and instructive matter, and is unusually well 
illustrated. — Providence Journal. 

FOR SALE BY ALL BOOK AND NEWS DEALERS. 

TERMS : Yearly Subscription, $3-00. Single Number, 25 cents. 
Liberal Club Eates. 

SPECIMEN NUMBKR mailed, postpaid, on receipt of 20 cents. (Postage 
Stamps afford a convenient form of remittance.) 



J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., Publishers, 

715 and 717 Market Street, PMadelpliia. 



AJ) I ERTISEMENTS. 17 



FLORENCE KNITTING SILK 




Why is it so Popular? 

Because it is the most durable of any textile known. 

Because full weights and measures are always given. 

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SOLD BY LEADING DEALERS. 

Our latest Book on Knitting (No. 5), with samples of 
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NONOTUCK SILK CO., 

FLORENCE, MASS. 



18 



AU VER TIS EMEJS I 'i>. 






ILLUSTRATED BY 



"W. HAMILTON G-IBSON. 



The Heart of the White Mountains : their Legend and Scenery. 
By Samuel Adams Drake, Author of " Nooks and Corners 
of the New England Coast," " Captain Nelson," &o. AVith 
illustrations by W. Hamilton Gibson. 4to, clotli, illumin- 
ated, gilt, $7.50 ; also, " Tourist's Edition," 8vo, cloth, $3.00. 

" Mr. Gibson fairly outdoes himself, and the result is a volume filled with the 
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" A book that is as deligjlitful as a literary work as it is exquisite as a work of 
art." — J.V. Y. Eoening Express. 



NOOKS AND CORNERS 



or THE 

NEW ENGLAND COAST. 

By Samuel Adams Drake. With numerous Illustrations. 
Square 8vo, cloth, §3.50; half calf, -$5.75. 

" Mr. Samuel Adams Drake does for the New England coast such service as Sir. 
Nordhoff has done for the Pacific. His "Nooks and Corners of the New Englaml 
Coast,' a volume of 459 pages, is an admirable guide both to the lover of tlie 
picturesque and the searcher for historic lore, as well as to stay-at-home travellers. 
The ' Preface ' tells the story of the book ; it is a sketch map of the coast, with 
the motto, ' On this line, if it takes all summer.' ' Suuuner ' began with Mr. 
Drake one Christmas-day at Mount Desert, whence he went South, touching at 
Castine, rema(iuid, and Monhegan ; Wells and ' Airamenticus, tlie ancient city' 
of York ; Kittery Point ; ' 'J'he Shoals ; ' Newcastlt; ; S.ilem and Marblehcad ; 
riymouth and Duxbnry ; Nantucket, or 'Nautican : ' Newjwrt, which monopo- 
lizes fifty pages ; Mount Hope ; New London ; Norwich and Saybrook. What 
nature has to show and history to tell at eich of these jtlaces, who were the 
heroes and worthies — all this Mr Drake gives in pleasant talk ; and nearly three 
hundred wood-cut views, maps, and portraits add very much to the interest of 
his text." — N. Y. Tribune. 



Published by H4RPER & BROTHERS, New York. 

Either of the above ivorJcs sent hi/ mail, postage prepaid, to any part of 
the United States, on. receipt of the price. 



AD VER TISEMEN TS. 19 



THOS. COOK & SON, 







(ESTABLISHED 1841 ) 

CfflEF OFFICES if i ^l'^^^^^^' New Jork. 
(Ludgate Circus, London. 

I\lew England Office, 191 Washingion St., Boston. 

»0^«!4CK) 

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TO ALL PARTS OF THE 

White Mountains, Mount Desert, Montreal, Quebec, the Saguenay 
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"Western States, including 

COLORADO AND CALIFORNIA. 

—4 

Programmes sent free on ai^jtlication. Address 

THOS. COOK & SON, 

261 Broadway, New York. 



20 ADVERTISEMENTS. 

Parker House 

Corner of School and Tremont Streets, 
BOSTON, MASS. 



Conducted on the European Plan, 



AND 



CENTRALLY LOCATED. 
ACCOMMODATIONS FOR FAMILIES. 

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H. D. PARKER & CO., Proprietors. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 21 



Make your Summer Excursion in the Mountains wisely, econom- 
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THE STANDARD GUIDEBOOK. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

A Guide to the Peaks, Passes, and Ravines of the White Moun- 
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" Altogether, in plan and workmanship, this guide-book is as perfect a 
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facts you wish to know ; they repeat to you the old legend associated with 
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Highly commended by the Ziondon, Times, the Revue 
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— ♦— 
Sent, postpaid, on receipt of price, by 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., BOSTON. 



22 AD VER TISEMENTS. 



The Pearl of the Monthlies*' ' 



The Manhattan. 

ILLUSTRATED. 

Volumes of this most beautiful of magazines begin with 
the January and July Numbers. Subscriptions can begin 
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Subscribers commencing with the July Number will receive the 
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"Trajan." 



TERMS: $3.00 a Year, postage free; 25 cts. a Number. 

THE MANHATTAN MAGAZINE CO. 

TEMPLE COURT, NEW YORK CITY, 

40 CHARING CROSS, I.ONDON. 



THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 

A Guide to the Chief Cities, Coasts, and Islands of the Maritime 
Provinces of Canada, and to tlieir scenery and historic attrac- 
tions ; vvitli the Gulf and Kiver of St. Lawrence to Quebec and 
Montreal ; also Ne^vfoundland and the Labrador Coast ; with 
maps and plans of 

THE MARITIME PROVINCES, THE LAND OF EVANGELINE, HALIFAX, 

NEWFOUNDLAND, MONTREAL, QUEBEC, ST. JOHN, THE 

ST. LAWRENCE AND SAGUENAY RIVERS. 

This handbook contains full descriptions of the natural and 
artificial attractions of the Eastern British Provinces, their cities 
and rural districts, the tranquil beauty of the St. John River and 
the Annapolis Valley, the noble scenery of the Basin of Minas 
and the Bras d'Or, the majesty of the sea-repelling mountains of 
Newfoundland and Labrador, the grandeur of the Lower St. Law- 
rence, and the gloomy weirdness of the Saguenay. It also 
describes St. John, " the Liverpool of Canada," Halifax, " the 
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Land," Quebec, " the Walled City of the North," Montreal, " the 
Queen of the St. Lawrence," and all the other cities and villages 
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interest, from Longfellow, Thoreau, Howells, Warner, and other 
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of the Provinces, the Jesuit missions and martyrdoms, the wars 
between the New-Englanders and the French, and the sieges of 
Port Royal, Louisburg, and Quebec. 

The handbook is modelled after the famous European guide- 
books of Karl Baedeker, enhulating their simplicity, compactness, 
and practical character. It states the distances, times, and fares 
on the railway, steamboat, and stage lines, and gives lists of the 
hotels, with their situations and prices. By such aid the tourist 
can readily estimate the cost of a tour in the Provinces, and can 
pass an enjoyable summer of travel with the greatest possible 
economy of money, time, and temper. This volume is, beyond 
comparison, the fullest and most complete guide-book, of this coun- 
try, yet produced, and is indispensable to one who wishes to make 
a pleasant and intelligent tour through the Maritime Provinces. 

" By its intrinsic value, copiousness of information, and impartiality, il 
is likely to take the place of all other guides or handbooks of Canada which 
we know of." — Quebec Chronicle. 

"In graphic and picturesque description, in completeness and fulness 
of information, and in clear insight in^o a traveller's needs and perplexities, 
this guide-book is not to be excelled.", — Boston Journal. 

Revised Annually. Price 1.50. 

*4* For sale by all Booksellers, or sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, 
by the Publishers, 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



[From the Boston Globe,] 

" Since Mrs. Frank Leslie assumed 
the sole management, the brilliancy and 
success of the Leslie publications have 
won for them even greater popularity 
than they previously had. Her editorial 
ability is granted by the press, and is 
shown in the variety and excellence of 
the matter promptly placed by her before 
the public. It is her policy to produce 
at the earliest possible moment, regard- 
less of expense, whatever of moment 
takes place in any section of this coun- 
try. She relies for assistance upon a 
corps of the best artists, who, with pen 
and pencil, are scattered here and there 
to illustrate the most interesting scenes. 
Each issue of Frank Leslie's paper faith- 
fully pictures the most important events, 
and a bound volume is an invaluable 
history of the year. Democrats owe 
this publication their fealty, for it is a 
powerful auxiliary, now as in the past, 
in their efforts for reform and good 
government. It has done them in- 
valuable service, and will continue to 
do so." 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 




2""Coi;scf^vAToi\for/Ausic 

J'rat^kli 17 square Sostop 



THE LARGEST AND BEST-APPOINTED 

SCHOOL OF MUSIC, LITERATURE, AND ART 

IN THE WORLD. 
— • — 

m:xjs I c 

Is taught in all its departments, Instrumental and Vocal, including Piano- 
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ART DEFAR-TJMElSrX. 

Drawing, Painting:, and Modelling from Casts anrl from Nature, in 
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E:]S'GrIL.ISH: LITERi^TXJRE:. 

Common and Higher Branches, Elocution and Dramatic Action. Modern I,an- 
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THE :n^k^v iiom:e 

Is located in the heart of Boston, confessedly the IMusical, Literary, and Artistic 
Centre of Amoricu,„ >:.;o beautiful Park in front, and tlie surrounding broad streets, 
mdice it both hcaltLful :vnd delightful. It is splendidly equipped for both Home and 
the Schools, furni-'i'T:- Home Accommodations for 500 lady students, and Class 
Accommodation =■ itr jpOOOladyand gentlemen students. 

Fall Term opens September 4th, 1884. 

Tuition * S5 to £.::0 per term of ten weeks. 

Board and Room Rent, L,isylit and Heat, 04.50 to S7.50 per week. 
E. TOURGEE, Director, Franklin Square, Boston. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 042 647 7 




